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the ending was hilarious xD

I’ve been making my own game with some friends, and I’ve made 3 characters so far, but a tutorial or something would be great because there’s not much guidance online for mini design.

ruclips.net/video/0rgrLWFUjlk/видео.html this could be help. showing details of 3d print tool

I am currently making my own TTWG like 40k with some friends and I'm making

Does poli count matter much when making minis? If I were to go crazy on details and ended up with a crazy poli count is that going to affect the print at all. Also, what about ngons, will the printer freak out if a face has more than 4 vertices. Same thing with tris, would those cause issues?

Thanks Gru!

I what printer would you recommend please? Tried to take a look at your webpage but images don’t seem to appear. Might possibly be my end with network but it should appear. Thanks

Where Stl export ?

Oh my gosh, thanks so much for this tutorial! This is going to be so useful for actually getting your hands dirty.

Creepy hands

I love watching your videos. You've really helped me on my path to creating minis. But I just now, finally figured out who you remind me of when you talk. Captain Kirk. Yes, that's it.

Other than the use of cards the setting and goal is so unique! What’s the link to your discord? Would love to join there and chat about game design.

Are those printed with resin printer?

Today on slime on the scene

There were a lot of things you didn’t show how to do, you just said to do it. 🤔 I guess I just have to find another video

It’s a decent tutorial but you didn’t explain how to do the steps just showed doing them, like when you resized the cube, you didn’t say what you clicked on to get that window.

28mm to eyes is 1/62ish and 35mm to eyes is 1/48ish to me. I use 5 foot 8 inches to eyes as average human with about 6ft to crown of head. 1/62 & 1/48 match army models I have. Sometimes you just have to bulk it up purely for looks however.

This is awesome!!! Thank you for providing this vaulable tool. Currently I am printing up my new army and sourcing models from different creators. These scale models will let me refrence them against a control scale sample. You just got my Sub!

Good Day, i got a Question, what Printer did you use for the Print? Kinda Curious, because i Purchase recualary Printed Minis from Only-Games, and the Details are Astonishing, so i wonder what the Resolution was on your Print? Thanks in Advance and the Time to give a Answer, best Regards!

On wind direction, Flying Colors, though not miniature game just uses d6. 5&6 just mean "no change". That gives a the wind a bit more consistency.

Thanks for providing the example scale stls! I was working on a base mesh of my own, and your model made it easy to scale appropriately.

What program do you use at 6:04?

Yes, everything that comes included with blender is free, not only are all the pre-installed add-ons free, well they're pre-installed Also a quick little tip if you press in any of the transforms [scale, rotate, translate and extrude (which is just a duplicate link and translate)] if you the shift button And any of x y or z it locks respective axis Blender has non-destructive Boolean modifiers too by the way

I like the ideas of using cards in combat games. I wanted to check out the rules but Squarespace says your site is gone. Where do I go to get the rules? I hope you haven't sidelined this project. It looks and sounds fun.

Tubey guys = shako

The main issue is that going large costs more, more lead, resin, space and time. Its easy to paint a 15mm as there less detail, 32mm can be too hard if need an army.

Why on earth would you start by placing a cube in the model's hand? The rest of your model is just going to be in the way while you sculpt. It is so much easier to just make a new object, then scale & rotate it to fit the model later.

This was a great tutorial - I have knowledge of most of these tools but had no idea it could actually be this simple to make minis! I have subscribed for more :)

"Great tutorial, let's see if that one model I made a while ago can be printed. I'll just check with the 3D-Print add-on" "Non-Manifold edges: 898" "Bad contig edges: 2934" Well that's gonna be fun to clean up

Love and Appreciation for giving out that huge information ! <3

Heroic scale is a blight upon modelling - The models have the proportions of toddlers.

Very nice, love it.

Pretty cool. Well done. Sounds like a great game and world.

Thanks for your video. I could have sworn ShatterPoint scale was 45 when I first looked into it, and now when I double checked its 40. What is your opinion on that? The miniatures didn’t change, but the measurement have. Unless I was in delusional dream state and it was 40mm all along.

Kriegspiel...

4:22 Blender supports drag and drop of images onto the 3D viewer, which you can then use a direct 1:1 reference inside of the modeler using orthographic projections in case your reference is really good and a profile sketch. Setting up the reference plane Blender creates to be axis aligned allows for faster copying of the reference with a mesh in front of it, using X-Ray/transparency. Just a different method to help bring in the hand drawn into the digital realm, instead of using the eyes to compare and contrast it turns it into tracing of what you've already created.

I wish i could see these stood up next to chapstick

I scale and rebase almost everything to 35mm with 25/50/100mm bases. This video is truth. I have one mini stl on my desktop by which all others are scaled and started doing this about a year ago. Now I can't hardly stand looking at my out of scale minis to the point I have considered throwing them out but then I think about what a waste it would be and so I sit here every night haunted by tiny men.

Blender is such a good software, I really don't know why more people don't use it.

how do i get from the cube to a full body person???

Thanks for the clear video, I started out making "realist" miniatures but now prefer to focus on "heroic" miniatures, not necessarily with a 1/5 ratio for the head, more like 1/6. I find the heroic format too radical, so I hope my compromise will be pleasant in hand. And Happy New Year !! ;)

I have preselected mini files I scale to, like you show. I get frustrated when I buy a file that's a scale and if I print without comparison and it's just off the rest of the collection I am adding it to. Thnx

Its been a while since we had Spire Seas content. I hope the project isnt abandoned. My wife amd I really dig the game, and with rhe growing popularity of microwargames like Demon Ship, I have to believe there's an audience out there for it just waiting fornSpire Seas to take off. Im not on discord, so maybe Im just self selecting to be out of the loop, but I just wanted to add some support today on the place I found the game.

somehow, i cant delete vertices and apply the mirror mod correctly. what am i doing wrong? maybe selecting before deleting vertices?

Thank you so much. Your videos are so helpful. ❤

Hi @Diluvian Chronicles, I was just wondering if you're using a drawing tablet when modeling? Thanks!

I want to thank you a lot, I started to use Blender because I wanted to do my own figures, and I didn't know what to do, and even if this isn't the most detailed step-by-step guide for modeling, I now know where to start. Also I now know that I can do my desired miniatures as no one in youtube seemed to be teaching this, at least for DnD

Your scaling explanation is more complicated than it needs to be. Scaling is based on the average height of the person, bottom of foot, to top of head, of 1.8 meters, or 1,800 mm. That means that 1/72 is equal to 1800 / 72, and that is 25mm. You can find scaling charts online that explain this and show where all the model scales, including train scales, fit within this mathematical standard. Companies are dishonest in this regard and conflate scales for the purpose of selling. For example Airfix does a fair job of scaling their models between HO (1/87), 1/76 and 1/72. The problem arises in that rather than retooling kits, they just relabel HO scale as 1/76 or 1/72, or 1/76 as 1/72. The wargaming community views 20mm to include 1/76 or 1/72, even though 20mm is technically 1/87 or HO scale. Then you have companies like Warlord Games that resell Italeri kits that are still 1/72 at 28mm. Another common issue in the historical skirmish wargaming community is that 28mm is conflated with 1/56 (32mm). A 1/56 scale tank next to actual 28mm figures looks opposite of smart. Then you run into scaling within scale for fantasy games with large monsters etc. The most recent development in the modeling industry is that they started measuring figures for "sculpting purposes" from bottom of foot to eye level. I think this change has two objectives from a business perspective. First it is a means by which scale confusion is created for consumers, resulting in expanding demographics within the hobby. Second it reinforces the above mentioned scale conflation between a correct 28mm figure and 30 to 32mm figures. So for example for a 32mm figure maker to market to 28mm buyers, will only list the foot to eye scale and not the foot to top of head scale. This will not be obvious with the packaging. It is my hope that the expansion of the modeling business via computerized 3D printing will correct this conflation and confusion over time.

Thanks, this video was very helpful! Would the process be any different if you were to model very curly hair? I am having a difficult time preventing overlap and gaps since I am modeling curly hair. And I am worried that the printed curls will be too brittle (This is going to be my first attempt at a 3D print so I barely know anything haha).

Things have really changed significantly in just a year, it's pretty scary.