This is a great timer switch. About 10 years ago I searched for a timer switch like this that worked well with my outside front porch LED lights. The first two I ordered on Amazon did not work well with LED lights so they were returned. This one works perfectly. Over the years I've helped some neighbors install this Honeywell light for their outside front lights as well.
Thanks for your video instruction and demonstration, especially the method to identify which wire is “line” and which wire is “load” which is crucial, I installed one for our house. Your video instruction shall be listed on timer switch vendor website because your instruction is the clearest and most precise one for the novices .
I couldn’t have wired this switch without your great video. Showing us how to figure out which wire was the load wire and line wire was invaluable. Thank You 👍👍
I was about to call an electrician - but following you plain spoken and clear instructions I’m in business15 minutes later. I think you should add a “contribute” button to your channel. I was looking for it to send you a 5 after I got this working.Thanks.
Great walkthrough vid (you would make one of the best electronics teacher around). Nice choice of music too (helps keep you calm & on a target). Through the years I have aquired more and more Klein Tools (especially electrical) along with Fluke as well. I have had my Honeywell programmable switch operating for over 9 years. Thanks again, excellent job!
I'm not an electrician, two ways i think this could happen.... if the light switch is turned on then both will light up with the voltage tester. Or if you have multiple switches that can turn your light on and off. Then this could happen.... if you see a red wire in your junction box, then You'll need a 3 way programmable 7 day switch
What you did with the ground wire resulted in rendering it ineffective. What you could have done to keep it effective was one of two things A) if the box was metal, you could have gotten a box clip and clipped the ground wire to the edge of the box. Some metal boxes have a ground screw in the rear of the box. OR B) even better, you could have twisted it around the ground wire going to the switch next to the one you were working on. In some situations, electricians working in a box with multiple grounds will twist them all together and locate one common grounding connection point. The point is - that ground wires need to "go to ground" - they need to find a conductive pathway to send the electrical energy to ground (rather than through the human body). In most residential configurations - the main panel is grounded - and all of the ground wires extending out to receptacles and switches are connected to the main panel ground internally - and then the main panel itself is connected to earth ground.
I'm not an electrician, but here's what I did. The box was plastic, so attaching the wire to the box would be ineffective. So, the ground wire that came off the old switch was connected with a bunch of other ground wires. So i left them all connected and tucked them into the back of the box. The new switch did not come with a ground wire or a screw to attach a ground wire to it. I thought it was strange, but that's the way the switch is designed. Well, thanks for watching
@@onesimpledad Without a close up picture of the switch, I can't offer any particular advice. If the body of the switch is metal and the box is metal, and if the metal part of the switch makes contact with the box, (even through the metal screw that holds the switch in the box, then you could attach a ground wire to the box for a ground. If you ground the box and there is a continuous metal "pathway" to the switch, then you've got a ground (per se)
Sorry to hear that... do you have multiple light switches that go to the same light your trying to turn on? If so thats a common issue and would require a 3 way switch. amzn.to/3rmIBZd Hope that helps and thanks for watching
Thanks for this video. I am trying to install exact same switch, however the issue is, my switch box has 3 wires, all three 3 are black and one white which I suppose is neutral. Now the new Honeywell switch has only 3 wires. I could identify load and line and attached it. White wire attached with neutral but what do I do with an additional black wire from old switch from switch box ? After all this connection, the new switch turned on but the bulb did not turn on. How do i resolve the issue ? Am i wrong anywhere ? Any help is appreciated.
Im not an electrician but ill do my best.... your issue might be you have multiple light switches that turn on this light? And might require a 3 way switch instead of this one. Here's a link for a 3 way timer light switch amzn.to/3FgSrz8 If the switch turns on, then you probably have the white neutral connected to the white wires.... and black line in wire (hot wire) connected to the black wire on the switch installed correctly but if the light is not turning on then the Blue (load) wire might not be connected to the black wire that goes to the light. But what's confusing is the extra black wire that probably means multiple switches control this light switch. I hope this helps
I’m confused by the instructions that show two whites joined in the junction box. I have Romex (black, red, white, ground). Should I simply connect the white on the switch to the white in box? But instructions say two whites are required?
So I'm not an electrician, but normally you have one white wire coming in from the power source and one white wire leaving going to the light. Those get connected to each other. The red wires is normally a second active or hot wire usually used with 3 way switches. Do you have multiple switches that can turn your light on? If so you might need a 3 way programable switch instead. amzn.to/3Ryut8X Well I hope that helps but remember I'm not an electrician thanks for watching
I remember this from a basic wiring course I did: (As copper and aluminum expand at different rates, connecting these types of wiring together improperly can be a fire hazard and safety risk. Though it is true that you can connect copper wire to aluminum wire, you might not want to. Can you mix aluminum and copper devices in a circuit?) One problem is that the two dissimilar metals are mixing together on a device. Another problem is all the newer devices, such as, outlets, switches, smokes and carbon dioxide detectors are not rated for the Aluminum and Copper metals to have direct contact. This is a fire hazard!!
Thanks for the tips. I'm not an electrician. The video is just how I installed this switch using the directions they provided. Well, thanks for watching
I know this is the third one I installed and its always frustrating when the directions differ from the actual part. I've had mine installed for years without issue. Well thank you for watching
Im not an electrician, but green or copper is ground, white is neutral. Black is hot. Red is a secondary hot. Well hope that helps and thanks for watching
The new switch didn't have a ground wire to attach it... all the other ground wires are connected together... no real reason to put a cap on the ground wires since there's no insulation on those wires... just wrap them together and tuck them in the back. But remember I'm not an electrician and this is just how I did it. Well thanks for watching
Usually a red wire is for a three way switch. Now I'm not an electrician but a red wire is similar to a black where it's a hot wire but a red and a black wire are never hot at the same time. Maybe a licensed electrician can confirm my answer or let you know more. A three way switch is used when you have 2 light switches going to the same light
Always best to hire an electrician. I will try to answer as best as I can but remember I'm NOT an electrician. Each switch should have directions on the box. If you have a yellow wire in addition to the blue, black, white, green then the switch is a three way switch used to connect multiple switches to one light and the yellow wire would be a travel wire normally connected to a red wire to link the switches together. But if you just have a yellow, black, white, green then the yellow would just be the same as the blue which is the load wire that would go to the black wire that goes to the light. Maybe there is a licensed electrician that can confirm this but always hire one if your not sure.
@@onesimpledad these programmable switches are "class II" devices which do not need a ground. The switch encasement is entirely plastic so there's no risk to the operator.
I know it was a little frustrating the directions show a ground wire and then the switch doesn't have one. I've had one installed at my house for 6 years and have never had an issue with it
I'm not a licensed electrician but Neutral is normally a current caring conductor and a ground normally is NOT. Neutral acts as a return path for current to flow from the load. Ground as a low resistance path for fault current to flow to ground. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching
![KSI - Thick Of It (feat. Trippie Redd) [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tXEPbotEjZE/mqdefault.jpg)
No nonsense, straight to the point excellent instructional video. Thank you.
Thank you for the kind words... and thanks for watching
Perfect video for the DYI guy… No BS just what I needed to install my timer switch.
5 Stars.
@Steve-nm9gg Thank you for all the positive comments, and thanks for watching
This is a great timer switch. About 10 years ago I searched for a timer switch like this that worked well with my outside front porch LED lights. The first two I ordered on Amazon did not work well with LED lights so they were returned. This one works perfectly. Over the years I've helped some neighbors install this Honeywell light for their outside front lights as well.
That's great... I always liked this switch. I've installed 3 of these and always thinking about getting another... well thanks for watching
Thanks for your video instruction and demonstration, especially the method to identify which wire is “line” and which wire is “load” which is crucial, I installed one for our house. Your video instruction shall be listed on timer switch vendor website because your instruction is the clearest and most precise one for the novices .
Thank you for all the positive feedback. I appreciate it, and thanks for watching
Thank you for this! I was confused abt the ground wire and didnt know what to do with it. Awesome instructions
Thank you I appreciate the feedback and thank you for watching
Thank your sharing this, I hope when my brand new build is done and I tried doing this by myself don’t end up going to the hospital 😮
Its pretty easy to do project. Most important thing make sure the powers off.
I couldn’t have wired this switch without your great video. Showing us how to figure out which wire was the load wire and line wire was invaluable.
Thank You 👍👍
@Maximum1A you're welcome... I'm thrilled to hear that. Well, thanks for watching
Best video on RUclips. Thank you
Glad you think so! And thanks for watching
Thanks very much for the very clear and easy to follow video. I am going to order the same switch to install it myself.
You're welcome... thanks for watching and the positive feedback. I have another video on how to program the switch as well
Great video, concise and easy to follow. Thanks
Thank you and thanks for watching
I was about to call an electrician - but following you plain spoken and clear instructions I’m in business15 minutes later. I think you should add a “contribute” button to your channel. I was looking for it to send you a 5 after I got this working.Thanks.
Great walkthrough vid (you would make one of the best electronics teacher around). Nice choice of music too (helps keep you calm & on a target). Through the years I have aquired more and more Klein Tools (especially electrical) along with Fluke as well. I have had my Honeywell programmable switch operating for over 9 years. Thanks again, excellent job!
Thank you for all the kind words. I appreciate it and thank you for watching.
When I turn off the breaker both the wires don’t light up and when it’s on both of them light up with the voltage tester?
I'm not an electrician, two ways i think this could happen.... if the light switch is turned on then both will light up with the voltage tester.
Or if you have multiple switches that can turn your light on and off. Then this could happen.... if you see a red wire in your junction box, then You'll need a 3 way programmable 7 day switch
What you did with the ground wire resulted in rendering it ineffective. What you could have done to keep it effective was one of two things A) if the box was metal, you could have gotten a box clip and clipped the ground wire to the edge of the box. Some metal boxes have a ground screw in the rear of the box. OR B) even better, you could have twisted it around the ground wire going to the switch next to the one you were working on. In some situations, electricians working in a box with multiple grounds will twist them all together and locate one common grounding connection point. The point is - that ground wires need to "go to ground" - they need to find a conductive pathway to send the electrical energy to ground (rather than through the human body). In most residential configurations - the main panel is grounded - and all of the ground wires extending out to receptacles and switches are connected to the main panel ground internally - and then the main panel itself is connected to earth ground.
Could he have just connected the neutral to ground?
@@jeremyspensieve neutral to neutral
I'm not an electrician, but here's what I did. The box was plastic, so attaching the wire to the box would be ineffective. So, the ground wire that came off the old switch was connected with a bunch of other ground wires. So i left them all connected and tucked them into the back of the box. The new switch did not come with a ground wire or a screw to attach a ground wire to it. I thought it was strange, but that's the way the switch is designed. Well, thanks for watching
@@onesimpledad Without a close up picture of the switch, I can't offer any particular advice. If the body of the switch is metal and the box is metal, and if the metal part of the switch makes contact with the box, (even through the metal screw that holds the switch in the box, then you could attach a ground wire to the box for a ground. If you ground the box and there is a continuous metal "pathway" to the switch, then you've got a ground (per se)
Perfect video with explanation. Thank you
Glad it was helpful! And thanks for watching
Clear instructions, well done.... unfortunately, the same switch did not turn on after i followed the instructions 😒
Sorry to hear that... do you have multiple light switches that go to the same light your trying to turn on? If so thats a common issue and would require a 3 way switch. amzn.to/3rmIBZd Hope that helps and thanks for watching
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Thank you for sharing this great video!!!
Thank you for watching
Very helpful. Thank you.
You're welcome... thanks for watching
Super clear - Thank you
That's for the feedback, and thanks for watching
Thanks for this video. I am trying to install exact same switch, however the issue is, my switch box has 3 wires, all three 3 are black and one white which I suppose is neutral. Now the new Honeywell switch has only 3 wires. I could identify load and line and attached it. White wire attached with neutral but what do I do with an additional black wire from old switch from switch box ?
After all this connection, the new switch turned on but the bulb did not turn on. How do i resolve the issue ? Am i wrong anywhere ? Any help is appreciated.
Im not an electrician but ill do my best.... your issue might be you have multiple light switches that turn on this light? And might require a 3 way switch instead of this one. Here's a link for a 3 way timer light switch amzn.to/3FgSrz8
If the switch turns on, then you probably have the white neutral connected to the white wires.... and black line in wire (hot wire) connected to the black wire on the switch installed correctly but if the light is not turning on then the Blue (load) wire might not be connected to the black wire that goes to the light. But what's confusing is the extra black wire that probably means multiple switches control this light switch. I hope this helps
I’m confused by the instructions that show two whites joined in the junction box. I have Romex (black, red, white, ground). Should I simply connect the white on the switch to the white in box? But instructions say two whites are required?
So I'm not an electrician, but normally you have one white wire coming in from the power source and one white wire leaving going to the light. Those get connected to each other. The red wires is normally a second active or hot wire usually used with 3 way switches.
Do you have multiple switches that can turn your light on? If so you might need a 3 way programable switch instead. amzn.to/3Ryut8X
Well I hope that helps but remember I'm not an electrician thanks for watching
I remember this from a basic wiring course I did: (As copper and aluminum expand at different rates, connecting these types of wiring together improperly can be a fire hazard and safety risk. Though it is true that you can connect copper wire to aluminum wire, you might not want to.
Can you mix aluminum and copper devices in a circuit?)
One problem is that the two dissimilar metals are mixing together on a device. Another problem is all the newer devices, such as, outlets, switches, smokes and carbon dioxide detectors are not rated for the Aluminum and Copper metals to have direct contact. This is a fire hazard!!
Thanks for the tips. I'm not an electrician. The video is just how I installed this switch using the directions they provided.
Well, thanks for watching
Thank you for this video!
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching
But where is the green ground as in the quickstart instruction.... - you should work for Honeywell tech pubs - thank you
I know this is the third one I installed and its always frustrating when the directions differ from the actual part. I've had mine installed for years without issue. Well thank you for watching
So black is hot; white is not. Red is? Ground gets connected to white(neutral) as per Honeywell instructions. Is that right?
Im not an electrician, but green or copper is ground, white is neutral. Black is hot. Red is a secondary hot. Well hope that helps and thanks for watching
You didn’t cap the ground wire? You just pushed it back in?
The new switch didn't have a ground wire to attach it... all the other ground wires are connected together... no real reason to put a cap on the ground wires since there's no insulation on those wires... just wrap them together and tuck them in the back. But remember I'm not an electrician and this is just how I did it. Well thanks for watching
My outlet has a red wire in addition to the black/white and ground. Any ideas?
Usually a red wire is for a three way switch. Now I'm not an electrician but a red wire is similar to a black where it's a hot wire but a red and a black wire are never hot at the same time. Maybe a licensed electrician can confirm my answer or let you know more. A three way switch is used when you have 2 light switches going to the same light
I have a swich with a yellow wire. Where does the yellow wire get connected?
Always best to hire an electrician. I will try to answer as best as I can but remember I'm NOT an electrician. Each switch should have directions on the box.
If you have a yellow wire in addition to the blue, black, white, green then the switch is a three way switch used to connect multiple switches to one light and the yellow wire would be a travel wire normally connected to a red wire to link the switches together.
But if you just have a yellow, black, white, green then the yellow would just be the same as the blue which is the load wire that would go to the black wire that goes to the light.
Maybe there is a licensed electrician that can confirm this but always hire one if your not sure.
I believe the ground is supposed to be connected to the top screw which grounds the switch to the metal box. Also, not an electrician.
I was thinking about doing that but the box is plastic and I was trying to keep ground wire far away from the load wire
@@onesimpledad these programmable switches are "class II" devices which do not need a ground. The switch encasement is entirely plastic so there's no risk to the operator.
When the switch is screwed in it bonds to the box effectively grounding it.
I'm assuming that would only be on metal boxes. This one was plastic
I have an extra black wire to existing plug. Now i am totally confused
came her to find out about the ground wire. Guess we’re going bareback
I know it was a little frustrating the directions show a ground wire and then the switch doesn't have one. I've had one installed at my house for 6 years and have never had an issue with it
@@onesimpledad Installed without - had no problems. Appreciate you having an answer
Neutral is ground.
I'm not a licensed electrician but Neutral is normally a current caring conductor and a ground normally is NOT. Neutral acts as a return path for current to flow from the load. Ground as a low resistance path for fault current to flow to ground. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching
Neutral is not ground
Good job
Thank you... I appreciate the feedback, and thanks for watching