Thank You !!!! Best video on RUclips!! P.S. you need a 22mm Deep, Thin wall socket, outer Diameter has to be 29mm or Thinner, The 1st one I got was 30mm and wouldn't work. Take a Micrometer to the store with you 👍
I actually took a grinder and made a socket I already had a very thin wall. But thanks for the info. I'm glad you liked my video I like to get to the point instead of talking for 30 minutes like others do
I just took the plate off. Cleaned the edges of the bearing with sandpaper. Coated the bearing with a thin layer of grease and reinserted the bearing opposite direction of how it was removed. (Flipped it 180 degrees) Sounds new now. Didn’t remove the bearing spindle. Very quick.
I had my doubts that it was that easy like you show on your video. I got the part from FedEx at 3 o’clock in the afternoon started right away and I was done at 3:31. Thanks
Don't tighten the bearing shaft too tight on the outer screw (the one that you are not supposed to let go of after taking off the bearing and shaft), or it will break. It is a stainless screw. The size is a Metric 8 by 1.25 by 40 mm length just in case you do. Finding a stainless is really difficult. I found another coated screw and used it temporarily while I ordered a stainless online. Also, there is a spacer inside between the drum and outer wall. Best not let that drop either. It is a pain to retrieve and put back. One of those long pincher gadgets with an LED light on the end is really handy. As usual, I learned alot about my dryer. It is up and running though, and the only reason I could do it is because of this video....even if I did find ways to add extra steps.
Thank you, did you watch the whole video first before taking apart? Because I know I mentioned about holding one side with your right hand while taking it apart so you don't drop that part you dropped
@@sriddle77 Yes, you did. lol I heard you loud and clear...and then I twisted so hard on the shaft that the screw broke...and then the spacer dropped. Well, it dropped because I banged to hard. The spacer actually sits on a lip that goes around the bearing hole on the drum. If one is careful it won't come off. Thankfully it has been running well now for a couple of days. I think I actually did it right now. I definitely appreciate this video. Maybe my comments will help others to avoid my mistakes.
The correct size socket is a deep 22 MM thin wall. About 5 dollars from auto parts store. You will not need to grind it down. Use a 5 MM allen wrench as well. Fisher Paykel uses metric nuts and bolts.
@@sriddle77 I would also like to add that finding a 22 mm thin wall deep socket was difficult for me. I couldn't find one in town. However, using a 7/8 like you did except in the thin wall version worked perfectly for me. I found one of those in town.
Great video. Just finished replacing my bearing. I did have to buy a 22mm thin wall socket and grind it a little to get it to fit. Other than that, it's a fairly easy repair. Quiet dryer once again!
As noted below, a thin-wall 22 mm socket will do the trick. Also, my 5 mm allen-head screw would not budge without stripping, so I needed to heat it up with a propane torch and grip it with the nose of a pair of newish Vice-Grips to get it loose. Going forward I plan to remove the hub cover and spray in a little Wurth HHS 2000 lube every year or so.
The bearing replacement kit (479332) is fairly expensive and probably contains a lot of parts you really won't need to replace. My local parts supplier was asking $279 for the kit. I bought just the bearing and shaft for $35 off of eBay. They were exact replacements and I had no problems with the installation.
Can anyone point out a link to thin walled socket that works, I ordered the green one from Amazon and it is still too big, I've been to 2 hardware and 2 auto parts stores, there are no thin walled sockets in existence at any of them.
Hi Mathew, I took a regular 22mm socket and ground it down with my bench grinder until it fit into that ridiculous tight space. also you can save money and buy the parts on ebay. www.ebay.com/itm/304102161821?hash=item46cde6bd9d:g:wzgAAOSwViVfu2kQ
@@sriddle77 Thank you for the video and answering Steve, I do appreciate it. Today begins day 2 of socket grinding operations. I don't have a bench grinder just a hand held angle grinder, I have the parts, I understand how to do it thanks to you and a couple of others, I'll let you know how it works out. Thank you again.
Thank you for the video. I didnt replace the belt but I replaced the bearing. It is still squeaking. I assume I need to replace the belt. The squeaking is a metallic sound so I assumed it was the bolt. Any thoughts? Again, thank you.
The correct size socket is a deep 22 MM thin wall. About 5 dollars from auto parts store. You will not need to grind it down. Use a 5 MM allen wrench as well. Fisher Paykel uses metric nuts and bolts.
Would applying some grease to the bearing solve the issue? Instead of spending $170 on a new bearing? Mine just started squeaking and I might try that first.
Do not apply grease! the heat from the dryer would melt grease and make a mess. Go here and buy the bearing only $34 www.ebay.com/itm/Fisher-Paykel-Top-Load-Dryer-Drum-Bearing-Kit-Inner-Shaft-Only-Replaces-479332/362970447512?hash=item5482b97e98:g:QhEAAOSwmRFaYi3l
Steve Riddle I sanded the sharp edges off the bearing and inserted it the opposite way I removed it (flipped it 180degrees). Applied a very thin layer of hi-temp grease. Basically just enough to shine the bearing surface and a smidge in the hole. Sounds like new now. Didn’t have to remove the top or front of the drier either. Thank you for the video it was helpful.
Steve Riddle if this happens again I’ll buy the bearing part you recommended. But I do think you can get x2 life out of this bearing by cleaning it and flipping it. Again thank you for the video and sharing your experience.
Everything is going according to plan, until the bearing doesn’t come out. The piece seems to be permanently fixed in place. I’ve pull on it with a vice grip. It’s not coming loose.
(1) Try lifting the drum to take vertical pressure off the bearing housing and you may be able to pry out the entire bearing housing with a pry bar (I did). Failing that, there's another video on youtube where they take the entire dryer apart and take the drum out of the dryer, lay it on its side, such that the bearing is on the top side of the drum, and then remove the bearing housing and bearing vertically, letting gravity help. That worked for me.
What i What if in Step #1 the metric Allen screw is frozen to the shaft? It just turns the bearing shaft. Tried tapping easy & hard to brake lose. Not budging. 🙁
I Drilled off head of the Allen screw. Start with bit just small enough to bottom out in the head and spin freely. Then keep increasing bit to next size until head falls off. My situation was far worse. The stove bolt on right side came out before I thought to drill. I had spun the frozen Allen so many rotations that a SPACER sleeve no one warns about fell off and down making repair impossible without disassembling nearly the entire machine. - and I mean all cross braces, drum, wires, So It's a good idea to put duct tape over stove bolt to keep it engaged with the square hole.
@@utimonte I believe in the video it says that you need to loosen the right side wall first then stick your hand between the wall and Drum to hold that bolt your talking about. Everyone who has tried this repair has successfully done the repair without Duct tape
Have a Fisher and Paykel top loader gas dryer that was making a screeching noise due to a bad bearing. The M5 allen bolt on the inside of the drum was frozen and I ended up rounding it so that nothing would work to get it out. Went to Lowe's and bought a SpeedOut kit and ended up using the largest of the extractors and followed the instructions to the letter. Reamed it first with the drill in reverse to at least 1/16" of an inch into the bolt (important) and then flipped the bit and used the extractor. The 1/2" drill I was using didn't have the power to turn the bolt (only to bite the bit into the bolt), so I clamped on a Vise-Grips locking pliers to the extractor bit and gave it a very slow, hard turn. And sure enough, I heard a snap and that bolt came loose. The extractor was into the bolt deep enough so that the heavy 1/2" drill I was using was literally hanging from it, but it didn't have the torque to do break the bolt. But, the SpeedOut did do the job. Consider me impressed with the tool. It may not work in all circumstances, but it is definitely something to have in the toolkit when all else fails. For $10 and a trip to Lowe's, it saved the day.
Go to Ebay and just get the bearing only look for this, Drum Bearing Inner Shaft Replaces Kit Fits Fisher Paykel Top Load Dryer 479332 only $29 with free shipping
Didnt work for me, beware. The first nut inside the drum was locked tight, and turning it just unwound the outer bold you held on the outside, and once thats off, you are stuck without options
you can get the parts here www.ebay.com/itm/Drum-Bearing-Inner-Shaft-Replaces-Kit-Fits-Fisher-Paykel-Top-Load-Dryer-479332/274579603123?hash=item3fee383eb3:g:YccAAOSweFJfhFYX
Steve, I was OK until the part about grinding down the socket to remove/install the bearing shaft. Is there a socket I could buy that would fit inside the opening? My appliance repair service quoted $500+ for parts and labor.
I am not aware of socket that will fit I know that I have a very big collection of all sizes and I still had to grind the outside wall of the socket to make it fit and I know that is definitely cheaper than paying someone $500 to fix it. But if you find a socket that will fit please let me know
its actually a 22mm if you look online you can find a thin wall socket (the actually have one on amazon that shows up with the bearing as something people normally buy who buy the bearing) I ground down a 22mm from lowes
Hi, I just replaced the bearing (and shaft, etc) for the 2nd time in 3 years. Everything seems to be working, but now the dryer is making a "different" sound...I was wondering if maybe I overtightened the shaft on the bolt? The kit says to use a torque wrench, and I didn't, but neither your video nor another I used mention that. I am a bit of an overzealous tightener, though. Any thoughts? How essential is the torque wrench?
What kind of sound does it make? As for the torque wrench I didn't have one available at the time I repaired my dryer so I like you just tightened the crap out of it and it seemed to work fine and it still is with no trouble at all. Also I don't know how much you paid for your parts. I bought mine for $99.99 at "Let's Talk Parts" www.letstalkparts.com/Drum-Bearing-Kit-479332-p/479332.htm
The shaft replacement was over simplified, and edited? The Fisher Pakel manual shows the dryer put on its side and massively disassembled. How about another video that just shows the shaft replacement complete from start to finish including details on the ground down socket.
Laurence George what do you mean Edited? If your talking about the places where it stops and starts it's because I had my wife stop the camera while I went to look for a tool, so it wasn't a long and boring video
Details on your socket please? 6 or 12 point, drive size, original od, ground to od? A review of a thin wall socket sold on Amazon with the bearing set said the thin wall socket purchased was as thick as his impact socket he tried first.
Umm, sounds little clacky at the end? It's ok to do a follow up if there was a problem. Save us the trouble of messing up. But good video overall. Thanks.
I have a problem. When I was replacing the parts, the bolt that you screw into, there is metal, not allowing the bolt to slide all the way through. What do I do now????
Thank You !!!! Best video on RUclips!!
P.S. you need a 22mm Deep, Thin wall socket, outer Diameter has to be 29mm or Thinner, The 1st one I got was 30mm and wouldn't work.
Take a Micrometer to the store with you 👍
I actually took a grinder and made a socket I already had a very thin wall. But thanks for the info. I'm glad you liked my video I like to get to the point instead of talking for 30 minutes like others do
I just took the plate off. Cleaned the edges of the bearing with sandpaper. Coated the bearing with a thin layer of grease and reinserted the bearing opposite direction of how it was removed. (Flipped it 180 degrees)
Sounds new now. Didn’t remove the bearing spindle. Very quick.
Thanks for the video. My Gearwrench 7/8 deep socket fit without any grinding. Also check on the lint screen while you are at it.
great advice to anyone doing this, I clean my lint screen twice a year
There's always someone who has your exact problem and has posted the solution. Thanks for solving mine!
I had my doubts that it was that easy like you show on your video. I got the part from FedEx at 3 o’clock in the afternoon started right away and I was done at 3:31. Thanks
Another satisfied customer! Thank you for letting me know! Please take the time and subscribe to my page
Don't tighten the bearing shaft too tight on the outer screw (the one that you are not supposed to let go of after taking off the bearing and shaft), or it will break. It is a stainless screw. The size is a Metric 8 by 1.25 by 40 mm length just in case you do. Finding a stainless is really difficult. I found another coated screw and used it temporarily while I ordered a stainless online.
Also, there is a spacer inside between the drum and outer wall. Best not let that drop either. It is a pain to retrieve and put back. One of those long pincher gadgets with an LED light on the end is really handy.
As usual, I learned alot about my dryer. It is up and running though, and the only reason I could do it is because of this video....even if I did find ways to add extra steps.
Thank you, did you watch the whole video first before taking apart? Because I know I mentioned about holding one side with your right hand while taking it apart so you don't drop that part you dropped
@@sriddle77 Yes, you did. lol I heard you loud and clear...and then I twisted so hard on the shaft that the screw broke...and then the spacer dropped. Well, it dropped because I banged to hard. The spacer actually sits on a lip that goes around the bearing hole on the drum. If one is careful it won't come off.
Thankfully it has been running well now for a couple of days. I think I actually did it right now. I definitely appreciate this video. Maybe my comments will help others to avoid my mistakes.
The correct size socket is a deep 22 MM thin wall. About 5 dollars from auto parts store. You will not need to grind it down. Use a 5 MM allen wrench as well. Fisher Paykel uses metric nuts and bolts.
Thank you that is very valuable information
@@sriddle77 Could you add this correction in your description above? I just happened to stumble along this comment.
@@sriddle77 I would also like to add that finding a 22 mm thin wall deep socket was difficult for me. I couldn't find one in town. However, using a 7/8 like you did except in the thin wall version worked perfectly for me. I found one of those in town.
I was never able to find one and had to grind down one from Lowes. But keeping that thing forever, already had to do this twice 👍
Thank you very much! I successfully replaced my bearing. It would have taken 10x longer without your guidance.
Thank you for such a nice comment!
Great video. Just finished replacing my bearing. I did have to buy a 22mm thin wall socket and grind it a little to get it to fit. Other than that, it's a fairly easy repair. Quiet dryer once again!
Thank you for making my life a little easier brother!!!
You nailed it! I had it done in half an hour. I was able to get a 12 pt socket on it, but it took some persuasion. Cheers to you!!!
As noted below, a thin-wall 22 mm socket will do the trick.
Also, my 5 mm allen-head screw would not budge without stripping, so I needed to heat it up with a propane torch and grip it with the nose of a pair of newish Vice-Grips to get it loose.
Going forward I plan to remove the hub cover and spray in a little Wurth HHS 2000 lube every year or so.
Not a bad idea, please let me know if lubing it yearly helps
The bearing replacement kit (479332) is fairly expensive and probably contains a lot of parts you really won't need to replace. My local parts supplier was asking $279 for the kit. I bought just the bearing and shaft for $35 off of eBay. They were exact replacements and I had no problems with the installation.
I think I paid $89 or so from the link I provided at the top of the page below the video
Can anyone point out a link to thin walled socket that works, I ordered the green one from Amazon and it is still too big, I've been to 2 hardware and 2 auto parts stores, there are no thin walled sockets in existence at any of them.
Hi Mathew, I took a regular 22mm socket and ground it down with my bench grinder until it fit into that ridiculous tight space. also you can save money and buy the parts on ebay. www.ebay.com/itm/304102161821?hash=item46cde6bd9d:g:wzgAAOSwViVfu2kQ
@@sriddle77 Thank you for the video and answering Steve, I do appreciate it. Today begins day 2 of socket grinding operations. I don't have a bench grinder just a hand held angle grinder, I have the parts, I understand how to do it thanks to you and a couple of others, I'll let you know how it works out. Thank you again.
@@matthewfortino175 your welcome and good luck
@@sriddle77 seems to be working okay, thanks Steve!
Thank you for the video
Cesar Almaguer your welcome Cesar
Thank you for the video. I didnt replace the belt but I replaced the bearing. It is still squeaking. I assume I need to replace the belt. The squeaking is a metallic sound so I assumed it was the bolt. Any thoughts? Again, thank you.
Is there a grease you recommend I should use on the bearing?
i have never replaced my belt, when you replaced the bearing did you also replace the bushing
Thanks so much!
Your welcome! Please subscribe to my channel
Where do I buy the bearing? How did you grind down the shaft of the socket wrench? Thank you
The correct size socket is a deep 22 MM thin wall. About 5 dollars from auto parts store. You will not need to grind it down. Use a 5 MM allen wrench as well. Fisher Paykel uses metric nuts and bolts.
www.ebay.com/itm/363505137663?hash=item54a29837ff:g:QhEAAOSwmRFaYi3l
I hope all this helps
Would applying some grease to the bearing solve the issue? Instead of spending $170 on a new bearing?
Mine just started squeaking and I might try that first.
Do not apply grease! the heat from the dryer would melt grease and make a mess. Go here and buy the bearing only $34
www.ebay.com/itm/Fisher-Paykel-Top-Load-Dryer-Drum-Bearing-Kit-Inner-Shaft-Only-Replaces-479332/362970447512?hash=item5482b97e98:g:QhEAAOSwmRFaYi3l
Steve Riddle I sanded the sharp edges off the bearing and inserted it the opposite way I removed it (flipped it 180degrees). Applied a very thin layer of hi-temp grease. Basically just enough to shine the bearing surface and a smidge in the hole. Sounds like new now. Didn’t have to remove the top or front of the drier either.
Thank you for the video it was helpful.
When I did mine the parts only cost me $93 from the place i have the link for. I can't believe they want $170 now!
Steve Riddle if this happens again I’ll buy the bearing part you recommended. But I do think you can get x2 life out of this bearing by cleaning it and flipping it. Again thank you for the video and sharing your experience.
@@joehutter8159 Your welcome
FISHER PAYKEL AHS MADE DIY FUN!
Everything is going according to plan, until the bearing doesn’t come out. The piece seems to be permanently fixed in place. I’ve pull on it with a vice grip. It’s not coming loose.
(1) Try lifting the drum to take vertical pressure off the bearing housing and you may be able to pry out the entire bearing housing with a pry bar (I did). Failing that, there's another video on youtube where they take the entire dryer apart and take the drum out of the dryer, lay it on its side, such that the bearing is on the top side of the drum, and then remove the bearing housing and bearing vertically, letting gravity help. That worked for me.
What i
What if in Step #1 the metric Allen screw is frozen to the shaft? It just turns the bearing shaft. Tried tapping easy & hard to brake lose. Not budging. 🙁
I am not sure what you would do in that case. Maybe contact Fisher & Paykel and ask them. 1.888.936.7872 Our Customer Care team is here to help.
I Drilled off head of the Allen screw. Start with bit just small enough to bottom out in the head and spin freely. Then keep increasing bit to next size until head falls off. My situation was far worse. The stove bolt on right side came out before I thought to drill. I had spun the frozen Allen so many rotations that a SPACER sleeve no one warns about fell off and down making repair impossible without disassembling nearly the entire machine. - and I mean all cross braces, drum, wires, So It's a good idea to put duct tape over stove bolt to keep it engaged with the square hole.
@@utimonte I believe in the video it says that you need to loosen the right side wall first then stick your hand between the wall and Drum to hold that bolt your talking about. Everyone who has tried this repair has successfully done the repair without Duct tape
Have a Fisher and Paykel top loader gas dryer that was making a screeching noise due to a bad bearing. The M5 allen bolt on the inside of the drum was frozen and I ended up rounding it so that nothing would work to get it out. Went to Lowe's and bought a SpeedOut kit and ended up using the largest of the extractors and followed the instructions to the letter. Reamed it first with the drill in reverse to at least 1/16" of an inch into the bolt (important) and then flipped the bit and used the extractor. The 1/2" drill I was using didn't have the power to turn the bolt (only to bite the bit into the bolt), so I clamped on a Vise-Grips locking pliers to the extractor bit and gave it a very slow, hard turn. And sure enough, I heard a snap and that bolt came loose. The extractor was into the bolt deep enough so that the heavy 1/2" drill I was using was literally hanging from it, but it didn't have the torque to do break the bolt. But, the SpeedOut did do the job. Consider me impressed with the tool. It may not work in all circumstances, but it is definitely something to have in the toolkit when all else fails. For $10 and a trip to Lowe's, it saved the day.
Thanks!
Your Welcome, did you fix it yourself?
Thanks for posting this! :-)
Your Welcome
Same issue where do I get the bearing at?
Go to Ebay and just get the bearing only look for this, Drum Bearing Inner Shaft Replaces Kit Fits Fisher Paykel Top Load Dryer 479332 only $29 with free shipping
@@sriddle77 thank you sir!!!
@@sriddle77 do I just need the shaft or the full kit?
@@carterm4421 Your welcome and good luck
@@sriddle77 do I s
Just need the shaft or the whole kit?
Didnt work for me, beware. The first nut inside the drum was locked tight, and turning it just unwound the outer bold you held on the outside, and once thats off, you are stuck without options
Did you have any trouble fitting the bearing onto the shaft? Mine seems quite snug.
Honestly I can't remember it's been so long since I fixed it.
@@sriddle77 It went on with a slight tap. Then it moved better.
can i replace all other parts and leave the old shaft in?
I would replace both the shaft and the bearing
you can get the parts here www.ebay.com/itm/Drum-Bearing-Inner-Shaft-Replaces-Kit-Fits-Fisher-Paykel-Top-Load-Dryer-479332/274579603123?hash=item3fee383eb3:g:YccAAOSweFJfhFYX
It's the dryer balls bouncing around
Steve, I was OK until the part about grinding down the socket to remove/install the bearing shaft. Is there a socket I could buy that would fit inside the opening? My appliance repair service quoted $500+ for parts and labor.
I am not aware of socket that will fit I know that I have a very big collection of all sizes and I still had to grind the outside wall of the socket to make it fit and I know that is definitely cheaper than paying someone $500 to fix it. But if you find a socket that will fit please let me know
its actually a 22mm if you look online you can find a thin wall socket (the actually have one on amazon that shows up with the bearing as something people normally buy who buy the bearing) I ground down a 22mm from lowes
Thank you for that great information!
Hi, I just replaced the bearing (and shaft, etc) for the 2nd time in 3 years. Everything seems to be working, but now the dryer is making a "different" sound...I was wondering if maybe I overtightened the shaft on the bolt? The kit says to use a torque wrench, and I didn't, but neither your video nor another I used mention that. I am a bit of an overzealous tightener, though. Any thoughts? How essential is the torque wrench?
What kind of sound does it make? As for the torque wrench I didn't have one available at the time I repaired my dryer so I like you just tightened the crap out of it and it seemed to work fine and it still is with no trouble at all. Also I don't know how much you paid for your parts. I bought mine for $99.99 at "Let's Talk Parts"
www.letstalkparts.com/Drum-Bearing-Kit-479332-p/479332.htm
Steve Riddle not how to explain the noise, but it seems to have “settled in” and isn’t making it anymore. Thanks for the response.
The shaft replacement was over simplified, and edited? The Fisher Pakel manual shows the dryer put on its side and massively disassembled. How about another video that just shows the shaft replacement complete from start to finish including details on the ground down socket.
Laurence George what do you mean Edited? If your talking about the places where it stops and starts it's because I had my wife stop the camera while I went to look for a tool, so it wasn't a long and boring video
Details on your socket please? 6 or 12 point, drive size, original od, ground to od? A review of a thin wall socket sold on Amazon with the bearing set said the thin wall socket purchased was as thick as his impact socket he tried first.
Umm, sounds little clacky at the end? It's ok to do a follow up if there was a problem. Save us the trouble of messing up. But good video overall. Thanks.
hanksgavin it's the dryer balls bouncing around
I have a problem. When I was replacing the parts, the bolt that you screw into, there is metal, not allowing the bolt to slide all the way through. What do I do now????
Doing it my way would have saved you $175 plus it only takes about 45 minutes to do
My drum is closed. Can’t get clothes out. Help please