@@bio-plasmictoad5311 well compare Gamvar to Conservar(natural pigments) or any other museum grade retouch varnish, and Gamvars price starts to make sense lol especially with every researcher signing off on it! A $20 bottle lasts me a year at least, that ain't bad! I paid $15 for a Windsor spray can and got 2 or 3 paintings out of it! 👎it was just convenient for the big pieces (30"×"40)
@@DCweldingAndArt of course, it well worth the money. I've had mine for about 2 years and have only used about an inch out of it and vanished about 15 paintings.
I'm a self taught person! Been painting for 75 years! Never heard of "oiling out" until recently. Keep hearing people complain about how long oil paints to dry and about the surfaces are shining or not! How much oil paints shine, is how thick the paint is and type of medium thats used. I believe that I have found the answer. When I was a kid, I bought a a antique oil painting and noticed that it had NO texture or "ridges" of paint! HOW? Much later I discovered how to paint in multiple thin layers, each time building up to the desired layers of colors and tones. SAVED A TON Of MONEY IN PAINT! Each time drying much faster. If that was to slow, I would use a "cobalt" solution to speed things up! Sometimes within hours. My painting took on another whole new path. Then I discovered that the paint was weakon the surface like chalk and very dull when dry. Along came " oiling" and saved that. Now I can control whether I want it shiny or dull. My latest painting is is done on well sealed and gessod 1/8 inch plywood - needs no gaudy and expensive frames ! The Mona Lisa was painted on wood panel that is around 400 years old.! I also use epoxy putty for texture and a raised surface to give it a 3-D effect! Want to experiment with air dry putty next! With todays new brushes and materials we have tremendous opportunities that the old masters never had! Keep painting and enjoy!😊
Thanks for the wonderful comment! Painting in those thin layers is much more akin to the way artists painted back in da Vinci's time so that would certainly help with surface sheen. Sounds like you've found your groove! Thanks for watching :)
Thank you ! That was the best straight forward and clear info on oiling out I have come across. So nice to have you doing videos again. Always enjoy them and find them helpful Thank you for taking the time. Always appreciated . Take care, stay safe and my fingers are crossed you will be kind enough to post more videos
Every time I watch your videos, I just click the "Like" button. But this time I want to say - you are the best tutor on RUclips. You are my teacher. Thank you and good luck! (By the way, I watch many others, but you are really better).
Hi I tried the oiling out on four paintings and am very very pleased. Each had some very dull parts. They are now all evened out. It was as quick and easy as you showed in your video. Thanks again for THE most useful video on oiling out.
Always great to learn something from you, Jason. One thing I like about oiling out is that it evens out the shine of the surface but allows you to continue to work on the painting. If you want to add something or correct something you don't like, it allows you to do so. Varnish seems to be the end. Your comments are always great. Also, I love your paintings, including the still life I received from you a while back!
Thank you Jason so much. I have a painting that needs oiling out! So now thanks to you I know how to accomplish this. Also your newsletters are so well done.
Wow, learned something new today, thank you Jason, it was magic watching that painting come back to life! I thought oiling out was only for reworking the surface between stages, I STAND CORRECTED, LOL. What about walnut oil and Gamsol or turpentine, 1/2 and 1/2? Cheers from New Mexico USA!
Great question! Yes you can use 1/2 walnut oil and 1/2 Gamsol or turpentine to oil out. It won't hurt the painting, but as with linseed oil it will take longer to dry. Thanks for watching!
Hi Jason😊Happy 2024. Bern painting almost 4 years, & I still come back to rewatch your videos when I need a refresher! I was just wondering if I can oil out with pure linseed oil, as that’s all I use when I paint? Or, do I have to use a solvent/oil mixture? Thank you, you are a gem 💎
Thank you for the very kind comment! I'm so glad you've enjoyed my videos and found them helpful. :) You can use linseed oil to oil out, but be very sparing...don't use too much. Keep in mind it may take much longer to dry as well before you can varnish.
@@walcottfineart5088 HELP!!! They just purchased one of my oil paintings and I had already varnished it days ago but I then realized that there were some matte little areas, even very small ones. I then applied some linseed oil, a very small layer, and now I'm waiting for it to dry... Oh God, what can I do? The customer who purchased my painting is waiting and I need to varnish those areas again as soon as possible. What can I do to speed up the drying process of the linseed oil on the painting so I can varnish it again?
After oiling out with W&N medium, how long do you have to wait before varnishing? And will it maintain the even sheen after varnishing with no sunken areas?
Yes, one of the purposes to oiling out is to make the surface sheen even so if there are still sunken in areas you can oil out again before varnishing. Paintings should dry at least one month (or up to six months if thick) before varnishing. Thanks for watching!
Have you talked about using water mixable AND traditional oils on the same painting? If not I would be very interested in this. Sometimes I find colours in traditional oils that I like that are not currently available in the water mixable and would like to know how to use both of these during the same painting. I paint alla prima
I don't use the water mixable oils, but you can certainly mix them with regular oils. Just be aware that once you do that past a certain point, the water mixable paints will lose their water soluble quality and become like regular oils. Thanks for watching! :)
Wait though you didn’t mention anything about the fat Over lean rule. If my top layer of the painting has zero solvent in it and I put solvent on it as part of the oiling out mixture, wouldn’t that ruin the painting?
In the case of oiling out you are using pure oil, not paint so it should still be plenty flexible to follow the fat over lean rule. You can omit the solvent if you wish to though. The key to remember is that you only want to feed the surface enough oil to even out the sheen. Use as little as possible and wipe away any excess. Thanks for watching!
Hi Jason, I watched your varnishing video as well and I was just wondering - if the goal is to make the colors lively again and to make a protective film over the painting, couldn't linseed oil theoretically (or another drying oil) be used in place of a varnish such as damar? If its done at the end when the painting has dried enough it seems that they both would serve the same function
Great question! Oiling out is exactly what you just described, it feeds oil into the surface until it's at an even sheen and the colors are saturated. However varnish is still highly recommended as it also serves as a removable protecting film over the painting. Once linseed oil is dry you can never remove it, but varnish will always remain removable. That way if the painting ever needs to be cleaned/restored you can just take off the old varnish and put fresh on. Some modern varnishes also protect from UV light. Thanks for watching! :)
Thanks for watching! It can be used for shadows and dark areas or to tone down colors, as Janet said as an alternate to black. Mixed with Genuine Naples Yellow, I find it makes a beautiful background colro that looks like air in still lifes.
@@walcottfineart5088 Raw umber is a very strong and saturated color, I used it in underpainting and to get som dark red tones, on the surface it can destroy the harmony and depth of the composition, I just wanted to hear the experiences of others with that color. Thanks for the answers Janet and you Jason.
Yes, it's just called Artists Painting Medium. I had it on hand for the quick demo but you don't need to use that.You can make a mixture of 50% Liquin or Galkyd to 50% odorless thinner. Thanks for watching!
No alcohol can be detrimental to some paint films. I wouldn't do that. If you keep it in a clean dust free area, there's really no need to clean before oiling out. Paintings take years to get dirty. Thanks for watching!
Yes you can, but it is a very slow dryer. Maybe even more than a month to fully get dry to the touch. It does impart a high gloss enamel like finish. Thanks for watching!
This is really helpful. I have some questions about using W&N Artists' Painting Medium specifically for this. Do you find that there is any yellowing or darkening that happens over time with this process? I'm a bit paranoid about that possibility. Given that the W&N is formulated with stand oil, rather than standard linseed oil, would you still recommend waiting a full 6 mos to apply a final varnish?
To be honest I am unsure about the darkening. Those type of changes usually take decades to really show so it's hard to predict how newer materials will react over time. You can always oil out with a mixture of good linseed oil and thinner, equal parts. The general consensus today is that you don't need to wait 6 months to varnish unless you have really thick areas on your painting. 3 is probably fine. Thanks for watching! :)
Actually it's fine! Since Liquin is a synthetic "fat" it will work over a layer that's leaner with no medium. If you have any worries you can oil out with linseed oil... it will just take longer to dry. Thanks for watching!
HELP!!! They just purchased one of my oil paintings and I had already varnished it days ago but I then realized that there were some matte little areas, even very small ones. I then applied some linseed oil, a very small layer, and now I'm waiting for it to dry... Oh God, what can I do? The customer who purchased my painting is waiting and I need to varnish those areas again as soon as possible. What can I do to speed up the drying process of the linseed oil on the painting so I can varnish it again?
Hi Richi, Unfortunately there is no easy quick fix for your issue. You need to make sure that the painting will stand the test of time and not have issues in the long term. There's not much you can do to speed the drying of the oil and you need to get it off the varnish layer ASAP. Long and better way: I would recommend wiping off the linseed oil as much as possible and then removing the varnish. Oil should never be applied on top of varnish. Then once that is done, you can oil out with an alkyd medium like Galkyd thinned with some odorless thinner. Once that's dry (about a week) you can revarnish. The alternative short answer is if you and your customer can live with the matte/glossy spots, at least remove the linseed oil and apply another coat of varnish. That way you could still get the work to your client more quickly. It's not ideal but those are the best options. Don't try to incorporate any driers into the mix, that will lead to cracking down the road. I sincerely hope that helped! Best of luck to you.
Thank you for the great video! I would like to ask about oilling out and the fat over lean methud. how do I behave with oilling out while keeping the fat over lean methud? I can do the oilling out just above the "fat" layers? I would like to know how I behave with it. Hope youre going to see this. Thanks in advance!
Oiling iout is somehting you do when the painting is dry to feed the surface and get rid of spot hwere the oil "sunk in". As long as you use the same amount of oil (or more) as the final top layer you will be fine. You can use plain linseed oil or a medium like Galkyd or Liquin for oiling out. Thanks for watching!
I'm not sure about the Oleogel stuff from Rublev, I have not used those products, but if Rublev specicfies them for that purpose then it's probably fine. You can use plain linssed oil with equal part thinner, but it tkes much longer to dry. the 50-50 Galkyd/Gamsol misture is probably your best bet. Thanks for watching!
@@dconfused9919 No. lol. It's got fumed silica mixed with Linseed oil. (I think that's ground glass). It extends paints, adding some transparency to it.
I really enjoy your videos and realised why my oiling out has been going wrong every time. Do you have any videos about varnishing? I've varnished two paintings recently that have been dry for about 6 months and the varnish has either evaporated or soaked into the painting? I'm not sure what is going wrong?
The first layer of varnish can sink in somewhat if the painting is very matte. If you oil out until you get an even surface, that would solve that problem. I do have a video on varnishing here: ruclips.net/video/Leuh0Jod-Gg/видео.html Thanks for watching! :)
@@walcottfineart5088 Thankyou so much I will watch the video and buy some painting medium so I can oil out my paintings. Thankyou so much! I honestly enjoy your videos so much and I've really improved as a result :)
Hi Jason ,very good info, but I want to know if I can do this if the paint is touch dry after 3 or 4 weeks! And can I use just a linseed oil for that!,, and I'd like to know when can I varnish it after oiling out, many thanks ,greating from Holland
Yes you can! You can oil out at any time once the painting is touch dry. You can also use linseed oil, but very sparingly. Too much can cuase wrinkling on the oil layer. Thinning it a bit helps prevent that. It will also take longer to dry. Thanks for watching!
That's a good question! I would avoid using retouch varnish if you think you are going to oil out. Oiling out can be done at any stage, you just have to let it dry in between layers. You might be OK, but keep the solvent to a minimum or it could reactivate the varnish. If you have a painting that already has retouch on it, I would finish with that method. Next time choose one or the other. Thanks for watching!
If the painting has been dry for 6 months and then you oil it out, how long do you need to leave it to dry / soak in before varnishing it? Also thankyou so much for your videos xx
Any new oil will have to dry for the proper amount of time before varnishing. It's still in debate nowadays whether a full 6 months is necessary, but I would give it at least a month after begin touch dry.
I have not done that but I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work. The oil doesn't need to be so thick that it drips. Just enough to feed the surface. Thanks for watching!
@@imadethisforict I have done oiling out ( with this particular W&N painting medium) in large, vertically standing, paintings and worked just fine. It needs to be applied thinly , just the quantity that it's necessary to do the job.
Linseed oil is more durable long term. I wouldn't use Safflower oil, it takes way too long to dry. The solvent free gel would be too thick to oil out with unless you thinned it...with a solvent. LOL If you use plain linseed oil, use a very small amount. It will still take longer to dry than doing it with a alkyd medium like Galkyd, but would avoid the use of solvent. Thanks for watching! :)
After the painting is touch dry, give it another month or so. The old rule about waiting six months to varnish is outdated unless you have super thick areas of impasto. Thanks for watching!
I have been wondering if there is any issues by oiling out with a Linseed or Galkyd and going back to painting with Liquin. Any chemical reactions or adhesion to worry about ?
Great question! Although I can't say for certain my gut reaction would say it's OK to do that. They are all compatible with each other so I don't see any reason why there would be any negative interactions. Thanks for watching!
This is nonsense, Im sorry...Who came up with this originally.... If youre using your oil paints correctly, nobody needs to ever do this. Too much thinner/solvent/medium is the reason, most of the time, for parts of your work looking dull.
![KAYTRANADA - Witchy (feat. Childish Gambino) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jGK3YVmGZ3Y/mqdefault.jpg)
I really appreciate your "no nonsense, get-straight-to-the-point" style of instruction. Cheers!
Thanks for the nice comment and for watching! :)
I'm Old so months of waiting for paint to dry give me a reason to live!
LOL! Thanks for watching :)
One word, Gamvar. Its fantastic but expensive but well worth it.
@@bio-plasmictoad5311 well compare Gamvar to Conservar(natural pigments) or any other museum grade retouch varnish, and Gamvars price starts to make sense lol especially with every researcher signing off on it! A $20 bottle lasts me a year at least, that ain't bad! I paid $15 for a Windsor spray can and got 2 or 3 paintings out of it! 👎it was just convenient for the big pieces (30"×"40)
@@DCweldingAndArt of course, it well worth the money. I've had mine for about 2 years and have only used about an inch out of it and vanished about 15 paintings.
I'm a self taught person! Been painting for 75 years! Never heard of "oiling out" until recently. Keep hearing people complain about how long oil paints to dry and about the surfaces are shining or not! How much oil paints shine, is how thick the paint is and type of medium thats used. I believe that I have found the answer. When I was a kid, I bought a a antique oil painting and noticed that it had NO texture or "ridges" of paint! HOW? Much later I discovered how to paint in multiple thin layers, each time building up to the desired layers of colors and tones. SAVED A TON Of MONEY IN PAINT! Each time drying much faster. If that was to slow, I would use a "cobalt" solution to speed things up! Sometimes within hours. My painting took on another whole new path. Then I discovered that the paint was weakon the surface like chalk and very dull when dry. Along came " oiling" and saved that. Now I can control whether I want it shiny or dull. My latest painting is is done on well sealed and gessod 1/8 inch plywood - needs no gaudy and expensive frames ! The Mona Lisa was painted on wood panel that is around 400 years old.! I also use epoxy putty for texture and a raised surface to give it a 3-D effect! Want to experiment with air dry putty next! With todays new brushes and materials we have tremendous opportunities that the old masters never had! Keep painting and enjoy!😊
Thanks for the wonderful comment! Painting in those thin layers is much more akin to the way artists painted back in da Vinci's time so that would certainly help with surface sheen. Sounds like you've found your groove! Thanks for watching :)
Thank you ! That was the best straight forward and clear info on oiling out I have come across.
So nice to have you doing videos again. Always enjoy them and find them helpful
Thank you for taking the time. Always appreciated .
Take care, stay safe and my fingers are crossed you will be kind enough to post more videos
Thanks for the nice comment! I'm glad you enjoyed the video :) There's definitely more to come
Thank you, Jason. You provide information nobody really talks about, and I always learn something.
Thanks for the nice comment! I'm glad you enjoy my videos :)
Every time I watch your videos, I just click the "Like" button. But this time I want to say - you are the best tutor on RUclips. You are my teacher. Thank you and good luck! (By the way, I watch many others, but you are really better).
Wow, thanks! I appreciate your kind comment and I'm glad you enjoy the videos! :)
Hi I tried the oiling out on four paintings and am very very pleased. Each had some very dull parts. They are now all evened out. It was as quick and easy as you showed in your video. Thanks again for THE most useful video on oiling out.
Good to know! I'm glad my video was helpful :) Thanks for watching!
Always great to learn something from you, Jason. One thing I like about oiling out is that it evens out the shine of the surface but allows you to continue to work on the painting. If you want to add something or correct something you don't like, it allows you to do so. Varnish seems to be the end. Your comments are always great. Also, I love your paintings, including the still life I received from you a while back!
Exactly! Thanks for watching and for the nice comment :)
As a newbie to oil and jus finish my first one in a class, this has been so helpful. Many thanks for sharing with us:)
I'm so glad my video was helpful! Thanks for watching :)
still enjoying your videos. I saw you hadn't put up a new one in a while so hope you are keeping well.
Yes, I am doing fine! Thanks for checking in. I'm so glad you've enjoyed my videos :)
Thank you Jason so much. I have a painting that needs oiling out! So now thanks to you I know how to accomplish this. Also your newsletters are so well done.
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching :)
Your videos are gold! Thank you for sharing so much wonderful knowledge with us.
Glad you like them! Thanks for watching and for the nice comment :)
Woohoooo good to hear your voice again 👏🏻👍🏻💕
Thanks for watching and for the nice comment! :)
Thank you so much . Always explained perfectly.
You are welcome! Thanks for watching :)
Every time I watch one of his videos I learn something.
I'm so glad you enjoy them! Thanks for watching :)
Great info Jason. As usual your videos are so educational with sound advice. Blessings and be safe.
Thanks, you too!
thanks so much for this information, so this morning I "Oiled Out" 4 of my painting they are drying now. Love all your video's, so helpful
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching :)
Thank you!...I have this problem a lot, and found this information extremely helpful!
I'm so glad you found my video useful! Thanks for watching and for the nice comment :)
Thank you very much for this information. Most helpful.
Great to hear from you again.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching :)
Wow, learned something new today, thank you Jason, it was magic watching that painting come back to life! I thought oiling out was only for reworking the surface between stages, I STAND CORRECTED, LOL. What about walnut oil and Gamsol or turpentine, 1/2 and 1/2? Cheers from New Mexico USA!
Great question! Yes you can use 1/2 walnut oil and 1/2 Gamsol or turpentine to oil out. It won't hurt the painting, but as with linseed oil it will take longer to dry. Thanks for watching!
That was a great painting man, exceptional 👏 good tips!
Thanks a bunch! I'm glad you found it helpful :)
Hi Jason😊Happy 2024. Bern painting almost 4 years, & I still come back to rewatch your videos when I need a refresher!
I was just wondering if I can oil out with pure linseed oil, as that’s all I use when I paint? Or, do I have to use a solvent/oil mixture?
Thank you, you are a gem 💎
Thank you for the very kind comment! I'm so glad you've enjoyed my videos and found them helpful. :) You can use linseed oil to oil out, but be very sparing...don't use too much. Keep in mind it may take much longer to dry as well before you can varnish.
@@walcottfineart5088 HELP!!! They just purchased one of my oil paintings and I had already varnished it days ago but I then realized that there were some matte little areas, even very small ones. I then applied some linseed oil, a very small layer, and now I'm waiting for it to dry... Oh God, what can I do? The customer who purchased my painting is waiting and I need to varnish those areas again as soon as possible. What can I do to speed up the drying process of the linseed oil on the painting so I can varnish it again?
Thanks Jason. I've learnt something new.
I'm so glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks for watching :)
After oiling out with W&N medium, how long do you have to wait before varnishing? And will it maintain the even sheen after varnishing with no sunken areas?
Yes, one of the purposes to oiling out is to make the surface sheen even so if there are still sunken in areas you can oil out again before varnishing. Paintings should dry at least one month (or up to six months if thick) before varnishing. Thanks for watching!
cheers another quick helpful video
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching :)
Thanks Jason, just tried it out, great result
Regards
Great to hear! I'm glad it worked for you. Thanks for watching! :)
Always great advice
Thanks for watching! :)
Needed that tip. Thankyou.
Happy to help! Thanks for watching :)
Thank you.
Have you talked about using water mixable AND traditional oils on the same painting? If not I would be very interested in this. Sometimes I find colours in traditional oils that I like that are not currently available in the water mixable and would like to know how to use both of these during the same painting. I paint alla prima
I don't use the water mixable oils, but you can certainly mix them with regular oils. Just be aware that once you do that past a certain point, the water mixable paints will lose their water soluble quality and become like regular oils. Thanks for watching! :)
Jason, wouldn't Liquin dry and make the painting look dull? I'm always glad you post knowledge on your videos, thanks.
From my experience liquin tends to dry pretty glossy so I don't think this would happen. Thanks for watching!
@@walcottfineart5088 Awesome! Thanks, stay safe!
Thanks so much!
After oiling out will i need to wait another 6 months before final varnish??
Yes, if you use linseed oil, but the mixture with Galkyd or Liquin could be varnished after a month probably. Thanks for watching!
Can you demonstrate with other methods for comparison???
Wait though you didn’t mention anything about the fat Over lean rule. If my top layer of the painting has zero solvent in it and I put solvent on it as part of the oiling out mixture, wouldn’t that ruin the painting?
In the case of oiling out you are using pure oil, not paint so it should still be plenty flexible to follow the fat over lean rule. You can omit the solvent if you wish to though. The key to remember is that you only want to feed the surface enough oil to even out the sheen. Use as little as possible and wipe away any excess. Thanks for watching!
What about for thick impasto paintings? Thanks 👍
What if I didnt use solvent in my painting, Can I oil out using just kinseed oil? Thanks
Reflection on the label made mostly in readable, and no text explanation of Winsor newton product
Oiling out can have a similar aesthetic effect to varnishing. Occasionally i'll need to oil out if the layers arent layered properly in sections
Yep! It's a good way to even out the surface before varnishing as well. Thanks for watching Ryan! :)
Hi Jason, I watched your varnishing video as well and I was just wondering - if the goal is to make the colors lively again and to make a protective film over the painting, couldn't linseed oil theoretically (or another drying oil) be used in place of a varnish such as damar? If its done at the end when the painting has dried enough it seems that they both would serve the same function
Great question! Oiling out is exactly what you just described, it feeds oil into the surface until it's at an even sheen and the colors are saturated. However varnish is still highly recommended as it also serves as a removable protecting film over the painting. Once linseed oil is dry you can never remove it, but varnish will always remain removable. That way if the painting ever needs to be cleaned/restored you can just take off the old varnish and put fresh on. Some modern varnishes also protect from UV light. Thanks for watching! :)
What's up Jason!
Doing well! Thanks for watching :)
Jason, where raw umber is usually used... it's like nobody uses it...
I use it as an off-black, and sometimes if you use ivory black, it may give a blue hue into your mixes, but raw umber doesn't.
Thanks for watching! It can be used for shadows and dark areas or to tone down colors, as Janet said as an alternate to black. Mixed with Genuine Naples Yellow, I find it makes a beautiful background colro that looks like air in still lifes.
@@walcottfineart5088 Raw umber is a very strong and saturated color, I used it in underpainting and to get som dark red tones, on the surface it can destroy the harmony and depth of the composition, I just wanted to hear the experiences of others with that color. Thanks for the answers Janet and you Jason.
I use a 50/50 mix of Galkyd and Gamsol. I then wait another 6 months to do the final Gamblin varnish. Oiling out is definitely a real thing.
Yes that is the perfect method! Thanks for watching :)
If you use Gamvar you can varnish as soon as it's touch dry.
Are you suppose to wipe it off afterwards or just leave it alone ?
You should wipe away any excess that doesn't soak in. It should be a very thin application. Thansk for watching!
Can you use a clear blend/glazing medium to avoid yellowing ?
What’s the name of the Windsor and Newton medium you use? How do you know there’s no varnish in it?
Looks like it said, "Artist's Painting Medium" on the label.
liquin original is the best
I have the same thing. It doesn't have a name. It's just called medium.
Yes, it's just called Artists Painting Medium. I had it on hand for the quick demo but you don't need to use that.You can make a mixture of 50% Liquin or Galkyd to 50% odorless thinner. Thanks for watching!
Always good advice. Lots of voodoo mambo jumbo advice ouT there. You just give solid advice
Thanks so much for the nice comment and for watching! :)
Love your videos. Do you ever use alcohol to clean an old painting before oiling out?
No alcohol can be detrimental to some paint films. I wouldn't do that. If you keep it in a clean dust free area, there's really no need to clean before oiling out. Paintings take years to get dirty. Thanks for watching!
Hey Jason. Can I use stand oil?
Yes you can, but it is a very slow dryer. Maybe even more than a month to fully get dry to the touch. It does impart a high gloss enamel like finish. Thanks for watching!
@@walcottfineart5088 hey thx. Just mix it the same. 50/50?
I'm learning !!!
Thanks for watching!
This is really helpful. I have some questions about using W&N Artists' Painting Medium specifically for this. Do you find that there is any yellowing or darkening that happens over time with this process? I'm a bit paranoid about that possibility. Given that the W&N is formulated with stand oil, rather than standard linseed oil, would you still recommend waiting a full 6 mos to apply a final varnish?
To be honest I am unsure about the darkening. Those type of changes usually take decades to really show so it's hard to predict how newer materials will react over time. You can always oil out with a mixture of good linseed oil and thinner, equal parts. The general consensus today is that you don't need to wait 6 months to varnish unless you have really thick areas on your painting. 3 is probably fine. Thanks for watching! :)
Hello ! Using Liquin doesn't respect fat on lean if we didn't use any medium for the painting, does it ? Thank you for all I really apreciate 😘
Actually it's fine! Since Liquin is a synthetic "fat" it will work over a layer that's leaner with no medium. If you have any worries you can oil out with linseed oil... it will just take longer to dry. Thanks for watching!
HELP!!! They just purchased one of my oil paintings and I had already varnished it days ago but I then realized that there were some matte little areas, even very small ones. I then applied some linseed oil, a very small layer, and now I'm waiting for it to dry... Oh God, what can I do? The customer who purchased my painting is waiting and I need to varnish those areas again as soon as possible. What can I do to speed up the drying process of the linseed oil on the painting so I can varnish it again?
Hi Richi, Unfortunately there is no easy quick fix for your issue. You need to make sure that the painting will stand the test of time and not have issues in the long term. There's not much you can do to speed the drying of the oil and you need to get it off the varnish layer ASAP. Long and better way: I would recommend wiping off the linseed oil as much as possible and then removing the varnish. Oil should never be applied on top of varnish. Then once that is done, you can oil out with an alkyd medium like Galkyd thinned with some odorless thinner. Once that's dry (about a week) you can revarnish. The alternative short answer is if you and your customer can live with the matte/glossy spots, at least remove the linseed oil and apply another coat of varnish. That way you could still get the work to your client more quickly. It's not ideal but those are the best options. Don't try to incorporate any driers into the mix, that will lead to cracking down the road. I sincerely hope that helped! Best of luck to you.
Thank you for the great video! I would like to ask about oilling out and the fat over lean methud. how do I behave with oilling out while keeping the fat over lean methud? I can do the oilling out just above the "fat" layers? I would like to know how I behave with it. Hope youre going to see this. Thanks in advance!
Oiling iout is somehting you do when the painting is dry to feed the surface and get rid of spot hwere the oil "sunk in". As long as you use the same amount of oil (or more) as the final top layer you will be fine. You can use plain linseed oil or a medium like Galkyd or Liquin for oiling out. Thanks for watching!
@@walcottfineart5088 Thank you so much for the comment! appreciate it!
Thanks Jason, but tell me more about which products to use. I've heard you can use Oleogel or oleoresgel by Rublev, also.
I'm not sure about the Oleogel stuff from Rublev, I have not used those products, but if Rublev specicfies them for that purpose then it's probably fine. You can use plain linssed oil with equal part thinner, but it tkes much longer to dry. the 50-50 Galkyd/Gamsol misture is probably your best bet. Thanks for watching!
Oleo ? Isn't that butter? Or margarine. From the ole days.
@@dconfused9919 No. lol. It's got fumed silica mixed with Linseed oil. (I think that's ground glass). It extends paints, adding some transparency to it.
I really enjoy your videos and realised why my oiling out has been going wrong every time. Do you have any videos about varnishing? I've varnished two paintings recently that have been dry for about 6 months and the varnish has either evaporated or soaked into the painting? I'm not sure what is going wrong?
The first layer of varnish can sink in somewhat if the painting is very matte. If you oil out until you get an even surface, that would solve that problem. I do have a video on varnishing here: ruclips.net/video/Leuh0Jod-Gg/видео.html Thanks for watching! :)
@@walcottfineart5088 Thankyou so much I will watch the video and buy some painting medium so I can oil out my paintings. Thankyou so much! I honestly enjoy your videos so much and I've really improved as a result :)
Hi Jason ,very good info, but I want to know if I can do this if the paint is touch dry after 3 or 4 weeks! And can I use just a linseed oil for that!,, and I'd like to know when can I varnish it after oiling out, many thanks ,greating from Holland
Yes you can! You can oil out at any time once the painting is touch dry. You can also use linseed oil, but very sparingly. Too much can cuase wrinkling on the oil layer. Thinning it a bit helps prevent that. It will also take longer to dry. Thanks for watching!
@@walcottfineart5088 thank you so much
Hallo sir, if i applied a RETOCH varnish on my project ,can I use this technic on it , thanks
That's a good question! I would avoid using retouch varnish if you think you are going to oil out. Oiling out can be done at any stage, you just have to let it dry in between layers. You might be OK, but keep the solvent to a minimum or it could reactivate the varnish. If you have a painting that already has retouch on it, I would finish with that method. Next time choose one or the other. Thanks for watching!
If the painting has been dry for 6 months and then you oil it out, how long do you need to leave it to dry
/ soak in before varnishing it? Also thankyou so much for your videos xx
Any new oil will have to dry for the proper amount of time before varnishing. It's still in debate nowadays whether a full 6 months is necessary, but I would give it at least a month after begin touch dry.
Can I use the same products if The painting was done with water mixable oils?
Yes I believe so. Thanks for watching!
I was hoping this involved some Mazola and drunk chicks but I see you went the other way. Still very informative though!
LMAO! Thanks for watching :)
Excuse me, why does everyone use a cotton rag for this? Why dont you use a bigger brush? It would be more controllable.
You could brush it on, but you still need a rag to absorb the excess. A rag makes it a lot easier. Thanks for watching! :)
Hi! Have you ever tried to do this vertically (because my painting is very large)?
I have not done that but I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work. The oil doesn't need to be so thick that it drips. Just enough to feed the surface. Thanks for watching!
@@walcottfineart5088 Thank you!!!
@@imadethisforict I have done oiling out ( with this particular W&N painting medium) in large, vertically standing, paintings and worked just fine.
It needs to be applied thinly , just the quantity that it's necessary to do the job.
Hello Jason, is it okay If I use Gamblin Solvent Free Gel or Safflower Oil for oiling out? If not, why are linseed oils more preferable?
Linseed oil is more durable long term. I wouldn't use Safflower oil, it takes way too long to dry. The solvent free gel would be too thick to oil out with unless you thinned it...with a solvent. LOL If you use plain linseed oil, use a very small amount. It will still take longer to dry than doing it with a alkyd medium like Galkyd, but would avoid the use of solvent. Thanks for watching! :)
Thank You! @@walcottfineart5088
@@UncleJunior52 Yes Stand OIl is good but it does take a very long time to dry, so you have to take that into account. Thanks for watching!
How soon can I varnish after oiling in ?
After the painting is touch dry, give it another month or so. The old rule about waiting six months to varnish is outdated unless you have super thick areas of impasto. Thanks for watching!
50 % liquin - 50% gamsol for oiling out. Will that work?
Yes it will! Galkyd and Liquin are essentially the same thing. Thanks for watching! :)
@@walcottfineart5088 thanks for the reply
Hi
Which W&N product did you use?
It was W&N Artist's Painting Medium. Thanks for watching!
I use Retouch varnish instead of oiling out.
I would recommend oiling out if possible. It creates more long term stability for the painting. Thanks for watching!
can I do that using linseed oil?
Yes you can, but it will take much longer to dry between applications. Make sure to keep the layer very thin. Thanks for watching!
@@walcottfineart5088 Thank you very much🌼❤
I have been wondering if there is any issues by oiling out with a Linseed or Galkyd and going back to painting with Liquin. Any chemical reactions or adhesion to worry about ?
Great question! Although I can't say for certain my gut reaction would say it's OK to do that. They are all compatible with each other so I don't see any reason why there would be any negative interactions. Thanks for watching!
This is nonsense, Im sorry...Who came up with this originally....
If youre using your oil paints correctly, nobody needs to ever do this. Too much thinner/solvent/medium is the reason, most of the time, for parts of your work looking dull.
What if I didnt use solvent in my painting, Can I oil out using just kinseed oil? Thanks