Testing a Knife's Edge - use/abuse - 80CRV2 Steel

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  • Опубликовано: 20 июл 2016
  • Knife edges don't last forever, but I want mine to be able to handle a beating, and still perform.
    Buy knife steel here: storbua.no/collections/utvalg...
    Short video showing just some of the use/abuse this knife went through. I tried bending it in the vice, but my big bench was lifted off the ground instead. This knife is not meant to be chopping drill bits in half, but it will cut and keep cutting for a good long time, without chipping or cracking.
    The wood used is hardwood, specifically very dry oak, and I was trying to put some hard stress on the edge to make it fail. The only damage I could find was when I set the knife up and hammered it without supporting with the hand. The edge then burrowed into the wood, and the energy of the mallet turned the knife over, bending the edge slightly.
    Still sliced newspaper alright after cutting a ton of cardboard and being hammered aggressively. Stropping it a few times on a regular piece of cardboard seemed to help get it back in shape, ready for more abuse.
    Knife steel 80crv2
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Комментарии • 25

  • @edgedknife5126
    @edgedknife5126 8 лет назад

    That was crazy!!!

  • @ZELLKRATOR
    @ZELLKRATOR 4 года назад +1

    80crV2 the holy grail of carbon steels

    • @jownbey
      @jownbey 3 года назад

      The old school name reveals much, it was called 1080+ before nj steel baron gave it a rebranding

    • @ZELLKRATOR
      @ZELLKRATOR 3 года назад +1

      @@jownbey what?

  • @ModernBladesmith
    @ModernBladesmith 7 лет назад

    little pro tip lay the music track over the video sound so it stays the same rate as it was before while the vid speeds up.

    • @huckstirred7112
      @huckstirred7112 6 лет назад

      better yet ditch the music , have a talk over about how the steel grinds an d heat treat

  • @MULTIRAGE456
    @MULTIRAGE456 7 лет назад

    Hi,
    First of all awesome video, i loved your custom karambit video too
    I want to know what is the difference between 80CRV2 and a knife made from stainless steel
    can anyone explain please will the stainless steel one be as good as 80CRV2 , i am a total noob

    • @eternalknives9829
      @eternalknives9829  7 лет назад +4

      There are many different steels, and they all give different qualities to a knife blade. Too many subtle and less subtle differences for me to get into. 80crv2 is a type of carbon steel, and there are many types of stainless steel, so you would have to choose one particular stainless to compare because the features within the "stainless" categoryvary greatly. In general though, from what Ive gathered carbon steels usually offer greater toughness and easier sharpening, at the cost of lower rust resistance and edge retention. Of course this depends on which particular steels you compare, but over all that is the general consensus. In short, some will prefer 80CRV2, some will prefer a stainless steel like 440C. Metallurgy is a big part of knife making. Thanks!

    • @MULTIRAGE456
      @MULTIRAGE456 7 лет назад

      thanks for explanation, subbed

    • @eternalknives9829
      @eternalknives9829  7 лет назад

      Great, Thanks :)

    • @PureCountryof91
      @PureCountryof91 5 лет назад +1

      Stainless is much more brittle than typical carbon steels. It has higher chromium, and vanadium to all but quell rusting. This makes stainless great for kitchens and boats. Where the blade is kept sharp and used fairly gently. Carbon steels have different element ratios. Lower vanadium and chromium. They rust. But they are less brittle in most cases and take a keen edge. They can handle harder strikes. Slashing (They make a better weapon) stabbing light prying. These steels are what you reach for if your life hangs in the balance. The 80crv2 is such a steel, tough like a 5160, edge like o1, and cheaper like a 1095 with the edge capabilities of some of the best. Long story short. Carbon steel = big blades that can chop bones and still go. Stainless = slicing, cooking, and typical food duty. Thats not 100% the case, however its pretty much the standard

    • @daw162
      @daw162 2 года назад

      AEB-L would be the only stainless that's similar in fineness to 80crv2, and that would have similar toughness and temper to generally the same hardness (not as easy to get AEB-L to that point, though). I doubt anyone will find it in consumer knives. Most of the other stainless steels that have more carbon have a pretty significant carbide volume and will break more easily and lack the same edge uniformity.

  • @knifesharpeningnorway
    @knifesharpeningnorway 7 лет назад

    er du norsk? looks like a good blade

  • @JAIL2K
    @JAIL2K 6 лет назад

    она ржавеет?

  • @ThegladiatorV-yr3hl
    @ThegladiatorV-yr3hl 7 лет назад +1

    ASS holl

  • @alaskanfrogman
    @alaskanfrogman 7 лет назад

    why did you do this video? showing how a blade cuts cardboard isn't even a real test. You can do the same thing with a cheap utility knife. Can the knife shave hair? Can it cut through a sheet of paper? The strength and flexibility test, I have a couple questions about that too. The blade is relatively short, thick and stubby. Just about any blade would withstand your simple test if heat treated and tempered properly. To test a blade's flexibility, lock your work table to the floor so that it does not bend. Put a piece well fitting pipe on the handle about 16-20 inches long and then do the test again. Will it return to its original straightness? Or, will it bend or snap? The hardness test.
    If you try cutting through a 10 penny nail, will the edge chip, fold or break? Can it cut a penny? A quarter? A piece of mild steel, or a 1/8" brass rod? Or, does the edge hold up and the nail cut in half? Your wood test is pretty telling because your knife doesn't have much of a real cutting edge and actually appears a little blunt based on how you are hitting it. it isn't cutting into the wood, it's barely chipping it until you take a mallet. But event then, the blade barely chips the wood. A good keen sharp edge will cut into the wood far quicker and easier.
    I appreciate that you used a bench vise to hold the blade during your flex test, but your bench wasn't anchored to the floor to prevent it from moving. You spent a lot of time cutting up cardboard and paper, and trying to chop a piece of wood. But for what? There is a lot of footage in this film of you doing your different tests for way too long. I didn't spend the time watching the full video because I saw no need. I skipped ahead to various segments of the video, only to find you doing variations on your tests and doing the same thing... repeating what you did, over and over... and over. I finally gave up trying to watch altogether and wrote this commentary and blunt critique with as much of my honest assessment of your so-called "abuse test" on your knife.
    Do another video, do a real stress and abuse test, starting with your bending stress test. Anchor your work bench to the floor, and bolt your clamp down. Do a tip stress test by driving the knife into a piece of hardwood like maple, then flex the tip and see what happens. Does the tip bend? Does it flex and return to its original shape? Or, does it snap. The bend test. Put the blade in the clamp halfway. Place a piece of steel pipe 16-20 inches long, and be sure to wear safety gear and be doubly certain that your bench is correctly and safely anchored to the floor. Try flexing the blade 5º, 10º, 15º-20º does it flex and return to its original shape, or does it bend or snap? Take this test one step further and see if it will flex to 40º and return to its original position.
    Next, hammer the edge through a nail. Hammer it through a cow bone, plunge the tip into a steel barrel, or a piece of 18-20 gauge steel. Does the tip go blunt, bend, or snap off? Or, will it cut cleanly through the steel plate and come out undamaged? FYI, a good blade will flex at least 15º-20º and return to its original shape. the 40º flex test is for larger and longer blades, like machete's and swords. a 40º test on a short stubby blade like yours is nearly impossible and could be dangerous.
    Will it cut a quarter? Will it chop a piece of 1/8" brass in two? Will it chop through a nail? Also, and fyi, these tests, for all their glitz and glamour, aren't real tests of a knife's true strength, hardness, or flexibility. They are good for show, but aren't a true analysis of a blade's true worth. But the tests will reveal the abilities of your blade and will also reveal its limitations and weakness. If your blade is as hard as you say, it should perform well enough, and it will also reveal some weaknesses that might be present, which are not shown nor revealed in this video. Thanks for sharing.

    • @eternalknives9829
      @eternalknives9829  7 лет назад +2

      Thanks man! Id love to but this knife was sold. And oh! My current heat treating for 80crv2 is miles better than this, and I really appreciate your in depth comment. Thanks again and take care!

    • @alaskanfrogman
      @alaskanfrogman 7 лет назад +1

      congratulations on your sale of the knife. I appreciate your respectful response to my analysis of your knife. I meant no offense. Take care, keep on making knives. Do you forge? or, do you stock remove. The knife in your video appeared to be stock removed. Thanks again for the positive response to my comments and be well.

    • @eternalknives9829
      @eternalknives9829  7 лет назад

      Please have a look at my more recent stuff instagram.com/eternalknives/

    • @eternalknives9829
      @eternalknives9829  7 лет назад

      No forge yet :(