Dry ice is super slow on rust and paint, it's better for cleaning oil and grease than actually stripping something down to bare metal. Renting a rust cleaning laser would be their best bet if they wanted to go that far, no dust like with sand blasting but it's as quick if not quicker. Very little mess and removes both rust, paint and grease with ease. You just need to wear proper eye protection and have good fume extraction.
None of those remove goofy, soft undercoating. Regular dry ice will freeze hard undercoating or interior sound deadening and it will shatter, making it easy to remove. But the soft stuff has to be scraped, then acid dipped.
As someone who used to work in a Classic Car repair/resto shop it's pretty fun watching these guys go through all the stuff I have in the past. I did the same thing with the mopar ball joint that Rob did lol
At first I was a bit skeptic about the tight timeline and a totally different type of an car. But man, looking at this is really, really good stuff. Just about the right amount of showing minute details that matter and also talking through them in a matter that is potentially teaching others how to do things in a good way. No useless yapping and hyping around and about. And no endless time lapses with years old tracks, heard a million times already. Keeping things fresh and engaging surely is not an easy feat but here you guys pull these things off with amazingly good vibe and flow. Thanks for the video!
If you look closely at the rear differential you'll see that the bracket that is attached to the top of the housing above the pinion is actually a pinion snubber and that was the Dodge solution to reduce spring wrap and wheel hop. It was basically a kind of hidden traction bar that was mounted to the rear diff instead of the leaf springs like traditional traction bars back then did.
and the big deal back in the day was getting an adjustable pinion snubber so you could tune the suspension. add is a pair of super stock leaf springs and you really had something.
I'm super interested in how the TR6060 will mount on the cross member please don't skip over it! I am doing a 392 swap with the tr6060 thanks for the help.
@@puntachu Yeah they have mike essa ( former formula drift champion) building full race cars for them now out of ferraris and lambos! It's actually changed a ton. I also got a bit bored of their content a year or so ago, but it's got super good again imo. They are focusing way more on the actual builds now.
@@claudiodecina2670problem I had with both them channels is they never progressed their own skills. Just got others to do the work. I love to see a content creator grow. Like rob has. Taught himself machining and milling skills. Last I watched Cletus he still couldn't weld
One of the things that really stands out about Rob to me is that he isn't scared to jump in and do the dirty work himself, it really shows not only what kind of builder he is, but what kind of person
I "was" thinking that you are building a "170" with an old school body. Now I am understanding that you are going well beyond that. This ladies car will be an incredible piece of work. You don't seem to ever do anything half-ass. Loving this project...
Without the complete reinforcement package, that Red Eye Hemi would twist that chassis like a pretzel. Gonna be really cool done as well as it seems that you are doing it!
@@SkypowerwithKarl With that much torque and power and especially with drag rubber, that little unibody would be stressed. Looking forward to the finished product. Rob seems to check all the boxes on his builds. Ought to be Awesome!
@@CLCIIIit's a body on frame car, not unibody.. and that hellcat engine isn't special, guys were throwing massive superchargers on 440s cranking out similar power with stock frames
I can completely understand why you are using that car it has a fantastic frame and body. On that thought it does kind of hurt seeing a numbers matching dodge get modified considering how completely wasted most Dodges of that year are rusted. I am really looking forward to what comes of this car you are a fantastic Builder and I will be watching this closely.
FYI for the rust conversion chemicals they dont create a primer. its a "storage" primer so that the part doesnt rot away in storage. it is meant to be sanded off and primed with real primer
They could make access holes and go in with a rust preventative coating, a long sprayer and 360 degree nozzle. But if that car will live in a dry climate it won't be an issue really.
Nice crew! Most people would take months and months to tackle a job like this.Preserving an iconic vehicle like this will definitely get all your money back.
Rob if I could make a recommendation for the future, (lead time and budget depending) if you do something like this you should look into having someone come in to do baking soda blasting for removing the rust/paint. It's a really effective way to remove all that crap quickly without using an abrasive like sand the can damage/warp sheet metal panels and such
Hey Rob, I know it's a small detail, but I highly recommend you use the Pferd brand curved handle wire brushes, i work with sulfuric and caustic hot tanks and those brushes last forever, hardly any bending or bristle loss after tons of corrosion.
Yeah, rotaries, drag racing, track racing, electrical wiring, engine tuning with latest hardware, CNC machining, custom fabrication, F1 engines, rotary swapped Corvette (this one cracks me up, take that RX-7 LS swappers!), and a massive V8 muscle car project! I'm loving the content!
I will always find it funny that you can tell when the team is REALLY busting ass, someone forgot to edit out that music at 11:45 but I'm just excited to see the next video!
Out of all the build, this one speaks to me. I just want 30000 hours of how to build videos from this car. It has all the work to make such amazing content!
Rob take a air reciprocating saw put a saws all blade in it you gotta make it fit by grinding it Sharpen the blade like a wood chisel Use it to scrape the bottom of the car it’s so fast the teeth of the blade act as a Grinder as well it removes undercoating Better than any thing I’ve ever found the vibration loosens heavy thick caked on stuff just try it it’ll blow your mind A thicker wood cutting blade works best I’ve used thinner blades too
Never seen anyone mig in a series of spots before - I learned 30 years go and only welded for a week so not criticising(!) I've just honestly never seen that before is all. I fell in love with it, having this pool follow me moving slightly side to side like stitching, the result was the same look as good tig welds. Addictive! Never learned how to set the damned mig up tho, I think that's an art in itself!!
Rob, as the past owner of three E-body Mopars, many years ago, I can tell you how to get the car closer to a 50/50 weight bias. We used to remove the old steel front bumper and replace it with a fiberglass version and move the battery to the trunk. That would get it close to 47/53 bias. Some other owners I knew also put a fiberglass hood and that tended to get it to 50/50 balance. HTHs
@@darthnosam3313 Well, to be honest I didn't mentally link the new engine part with his comments about getting a better weight bias. My bad. I should have given a more complete answer and added that a small block car (when altered as I suggested ) could handle better than a big block car. I only bought small block cars back then for that reason. Also, the headline to the video should have given me a better idea of what his goals were (drag racing) as opposed a track car. In more honesty, I haven't kept track of the modern Mopar engines weights - just HP and drive-ability. You're right - that hellcat engine is probably heavier that a LA block engine. I do believe that the weight reduction of the parts I mentioned will help with some of the front weight bias. I'm looking forward to seeing Rob doing the suspension (and that Hellcat engine) and how that alters that car.
Numbers, Matching,.... pausing there for a second,.. Hope you've done the smart thing Rob, and sealed up and stored all the parts you un-bolt. These cars are already worth ridiculous sums, and numbers matching means potential investment, if it is ever resold, even with the awesome new drive line, being able to add in the correct original parts, can boost the resale value significantly. 13:00 - That is such a relief to see in your hands! The torque boxes and subframe connectors will make more difference to the handling then any other change. Yes, even including that tubular front end or the (excuse me while I puke in MoPar B5 Blue,...) the, the, Coil, Overs,... (Huuuuurlllll) Torsion Bars, set up right, will always out perform coil overs in the same chassis. Because the mass sits lower in the chassis.
The 1960s Lincoln Continental is a notable exception to your point about overbuilding. The chassis itself was SO incredibly stiff for its time that even today with coilover and air ride conversions, it drives like a dream.
I am in the middle of putting a 1971 Dodge Dart back together. Definitely different the way everything bolts up in the front end. It was fun trying to figure it out without a shop manual, same for the door and rear windows.
Several points to this: 1) The fact that Dodge would choose Rob to do this shows that he has a good reputation based on his good works and interesting RUclips videos. 2) This isn't rotary, but the same thought process of proper building and engineering is used and pays off handsomely. 3) Some serious chops to complete a resto-mod in several weeks! So yeah, very interesting content. Dodge chose wisely in Rob Dahm!
Definitely wanna add some more structure up front to stiff in it up cause on older mopars the fromt fenders are part of the structure and help make the front of the car more rigid
The shared tech bits of the why a part was chosen is what separates this channel from most others .. the science of how and why things aren't just chosen...but braced..rebuilt ...etc ..appeals to everyone from start to finish and carries an eagerness for the next....mastering machines is one thing ..mastering the science of machines is another....you obviously are more than the average parts cannon channel. We need more...not just for the cool ass knowledge packed vids but for helping the industry stay alive and interesting. No nut riders here...still think your crazy for testing the 4 rotor without a scattersheild and that shit sittin in your armpit...but aye' I get it 👌😂...again...Thank You
As soon as I saw the thumbnail my immediate thought was call US Car Tool, they have a kit for this, and here you are using that kit. The only thing I would've done different is I would've installed the subframe connectors while the car was assembled (minus the seats and carpet of course) and sitting on the wheels so that way there is no surprises when reassembling the body of the car due to how flimsy they are. Great work on the progress, can't wait for the next video! Oh and that cardboard piece behind the rear seat wasn't part of the rear seat. It is a separate part to separate the trunk area from the interior. Classic Industries and YearOne both carry it, or you can fabricate a better one out of metal or another material of your choosing.
If the underside, subframe, anything is super greasy. Use Zep purple degreaser. You can get it anywhere. I've used others and that one works the best. Just leave it on for 5 minutes and wash it off. Just don't get it on any bearings. My alternator lasted only 3 days after spraying it on my engine.
Fyi that's the oem truck divider panel it is meant to hang on the top 2 hooks through the 2 slots. That is exactly how it was built. It didn't fall off the back seat.
I have always loved the sound of the uneven idle on classic muscle cars. I also love old the same sound when it comes to old Harley's, triumphs & such. Doesnt matter if its a single of twin cylinder. The uneven idle is music.
19:58 “This metal is soooo thin”… Have you thought about designing and building a Dahm strong tubular chassis body framework, with a driver roll cage and adding a carbon fibre body shell? How fast do you want to go with your 1000hp? Are you, or your family, a little bit concerned, especially with the short time frame you have? Safety First 👍🏼 Lovin’ your enthusiasm.
Rob, Chrysler had designed their cars to be dropped down onto the engine cradle and trans for assembly for their workers, which is which is why their is so little re-inforcement on the body for the suspension.
the factory styles front ends are used on Superstock class race cars running 8.40s average. and complete factory style cars are running 9.4s without power adders. aslo subframe cars Unibodies are better when reinforced at where the door is that body there is where the real reinforcement is needed
It's very cool to see you doing that restomod but what I would like to see is doing a complete change up and put in a rotary engine in ether a two rotor 13b or a three rotor 20b or even a fore rotor 26b and see what it would look like and see how much power you can get out of it
also, if you want to scrape that stuff off, use dry ice. hold it next to that coating with mig welding gloves if you have to, but it'll freeze that undercoating and break off like potato chips on a countertop
Purists aside, you have to appreciate the amount of effort that is being put into preserving the chassis for the long run. Better preserved and swapped then original and silently rusting away
rob i will never get over how you always manage to cut the video at a super interesting moment
Classic rob ending 😂
Signature move
Easy bruh, if every moment is super interesting he can just cut it wherever 😂
Typical😂
Was a longer video… but slices into a new filming
The simplicity of vintage motoring is one thing, but a restomod being done right is truly a sight to behold.
I'm excited for what's to come, Rob!
Can’t help but feel proud of Rob for how far he’s come with his abilities. What a legend.. making it look downright easy now.
Rob and team
Needed to dry ice blast it all, would have cleared everything with ease. Loving this series though! Ready for the end result
Yeah though so too, it can help Freddy's extremely rested mess of a seafloor P1, it would have done miracles here!
Or just sand blast
Dry ice is super slow on rust and paint, it's better for cleaning oil and grease than actually stripping something down to bare metal. Renting a rust cleaning laser would be their best bet if they wanted to go that far, no dust like with sand blasting but it's as quick if not quicker. Very little mess and removes both rust, paint and grease with ease. You just need to wear proper eye protection and have good fume extraction.
the ending
None of those remove goofy, soft undercoating. Regular dry ice will freeze hard undercoating or interior sound deadening and it will shatter, making it easy to remove. But the soft stuff has to be scraped, then acid dipped.
As someone who used to work in a Classic Car repair/resto shop it's pretty fun watching these guys go through all the stuff I have in the past. I did the same thing with the mopar ball joint that Rob did lol
At first I was a bit skeptic about the tight timeline and a totally different type of an car. But man, looking at this is really, really good stuff. Just about the right amount of showing minute details that matter and also talking through them in a matter that is potentially teaching others how to do things in a good way. No useless yapping and hyping around and about. And no endless time lapses with years old tracks, heard a million times already. Keeping things fresh and engaging surely is not an easy feat but here you guys pull these things off with amazingly good vibe and flow. Thanks for the video!
If you look closely at the rear differential you'll see that the bracket that is attached to the top of the housing above the pinion is actually a pinion snubber and that was the Dodge solution to reduce spring wrap and wheel hop. It was basically a kind of hidden traction bar that was mounted to the rear diff instead of the leaf springs like traditional traction bars back then did.
When he was talking I pointed to it and said that's why it's got a snubber. Lol
and the big deal back in the day was getting an adjustable pinion snubber so you could tune the suspension. add is a pair of super stock leaf springs and you really had something.
It's called the sure grip
@@lyndonhill1778 no the sure grip was the Mopar branded differential that was available in the 8 3/4 rear end
@@rogerf7265 that is the small axle 8 3/4
I'm super interested in how the TR6060 will mount on the cross member please don't skip over it! I am doing a 392 swap with the tr6060 thanks for the help.
Rob Dahm and DDE are the only two youtube chans that I litterally stop what ever I am doing to watch. 🎉🎉🎉
Has dde changed the content in a bit? I used to watch but got kinda bored of the same type of stuff
Try Adam Lz, cleetus macfarland as well
@@puntachu Yeah they have mike essa ( former formula drift champion) building full race cars for them now out of ferraris and lambos! It's actually changed a ton. I also got a bit bored of their content a year or so ago, but it's got super good again imo. They are focusing way more on the actual builds now.
DDE are the biggest hand racers on the internet, can’t stand them!
@@claudiodecina2670problem I had with both them channels is they never progressed their own skills. Just got others to do the work. I love to see a content creator grow. Like rob has. Taught himself machining and milling skills. Last I watched Cletus he still couldn't weld
One of the things that really stands out about Rob to me is that he isn't scared to jump in and do the dirty work himself, it really shows not only what kind of builder he is, but what kind of person
That cliff hangar though :( We have to wait to see the cute little weld!
Ikr! would of had closure if I could see the welds then call it lol
Can we just give a bunch of props to Isaiah! Man is good at what he does.... Dig that power stance when painting the under side too. 🤘😅
I "was" thinking that you are building a "170" with an old school body. Now I am understanding that you are going well beyond that. This ladies car will be an incredible piece of work. You don't seem to ever do anything half-ass. Loving this project...
Without the complete reinforcement package, that Red Eye Hemi would twist that chassis like a pretzel. Gonna be really cool done as well as it seems that you are doing it!
Yeah, a good hook up = broken glass and jammed doors.
@@SkypowerwithKarl With that much torque and power and especially with drag rubber, that little unibody would be stressed. Looking forward to the finished product. Rob seems to check all the boxes on his builds. Ought to be Awesome!
@@CLCIIIit's a body on frame car, not unibody.. and that hellcat engine isn't special, guys were throwing massive superchargers on 440s cranking out similar power with stock frames
@@Im_just_super_sayin Biting my tongue. Next...
@@Im_just_super_sayinThis isn’t very good b8 lol
I can completely understand why you are using that car it has a fantastic frame and body. On that thought it does kind of hurt seeing a numbers matching dodge get modified considering how completely wasted most Dodges of that year are rusted. I am really looking forward to what comes of this car you are a fantastic Builder and I will be watching this closely.
not a rotary but I can watch dahm work all day
Can’t wait to see what happens with this build! Huge fan of it so far.
That ending was a CLASSIC Rob Dahm move! He really is the king of mid-sentence-video-endings.... 😁😁😜😜🤘🤘
FYI for the rust conversion chemicals they dont create a primer. its a "storage" primer so that the part doesnt rot away in storage. it is meant to be sanded off and primed with real primer
If this was any other youtuber I'd have 0 interest in this build. It's just not my kinda car. Yet, Rob still manages to have me hooked!
Skater powerboats huh!?? Michigan made!🙌🏼
took sometime for myself today and what a relaxing watch of informative and professional teardown
What's gonna protect the inside of the rails after weld? The welds are exposed from inside to rust.
They could make access holes and go in with a rust preventative coating, a long sprayer and 360 degree nozzle. But if that car will live in a dry climate it won't be an issue really.
Nice crew! Most people would take months and months to tackle a job like this.Preserving an iconic vehicle like this will definitely get all your money back.
Rob if I could make a recommendation for the future, (lead time and budget depending) if you do something like this you should look into having someone come in to do baking soda blasting for removing the rust/paint. It's a really effective way to remove all that crap quickly without using an abrasive like sand the can damage/warp sheet metal panels and such
You have assembled one of the absolute best teams when it comes to building fast anything, this car will no doubt be a monster!
Chrysler guys are gonna be fuming... Numbers matching car tore up😂
I'm sure that's the only reason he said that too haha.
Hey Rob, I know it's a small detail, but I highly recommend you use the Pferd brand curved handle wire brushes, i work with sulfuric and caustic hot tanks and those brushes last forever, hardly any bending or bristle loss after tons of corrosion.
Such a cool and different build for the channel. Can’t wait to see how it turns out 🤙🏻
Yeah, rotaries, drag racing, track racing, electrical wiring, engine tuning with latest hardware, CNC machining, custom fabrication, F1 engines, rotary swapped Corvette (this one cracks me up, take that RX-7 LS swappers!), and a massive V8 muscle car project! I'm loving the content!
I enjoy how y’all always have unique builds not like other automotive channels
22:55 such an instant cut the worst.. I really want to now how it goes on and I’m hoping for a 8 second time
I will always find it funny that you can tell when the team is REALLY busting ass, someone forgot to edit out that music at 11:45 but I'm just excited to see the next video!
Or when the video abruptly ends
Classic rob always leaving us wondering what's next like the movie companies 😅 love these videos esp being different then rotary's
Out of all the build, this one speaks to me. I just want 30000 hours of how to build videos from this car. It has all the work to make such amazing content!
I always have to question whether my internet went out or the video actually ended. Always leaving us in suspense.
Every Rob video I expect it. Every Rob video I'm surprised by it. How you cut the end like this each time is art
Rob take a air reciprocating saw put a saws all blade in it you gotta make it fit by grinding it
Sharpen the blade like a wood chisel
Use it to scrape the bottom of the car it’s so fast the teeth of the blade act as a Grinder as well it removes undercoating
Better than any thing I’ve ever found the vibration loosens heavy thick caked on stuff just try it it’ll blow your mind
A thicker wood cutting blade works best I’ve used thinner blades too
Never seen anyone mig in a series of spots before - I learned 30 years go and only welded for a week so not criticising(!) I've just honestly never seen that before is all. I fell in love with it, having this pool follow me moving slightly side to side like stitching, the result was the same look as good tig welds. Addictive! Never learned how to set the damned mig up tho, I think that's an art in itself!!
Rob, as the past owner of three E-body Mopars, many years ago, I can tell you how to get the car closer to a 50/50 weight bias. We used to remove the old steel front bumper and replace it with a fiberglass version and move the battery to the trunk. That would get it close to 47/53 bias. Some other owners I knew also put a fiberglass hood and that tended to get it to 50/50 balance.
HTHs
Yeah maybe with a stock engine but yeah it definitely would help but won't up any where near 50/50 with the Hellcat engine
@@darthnosam3313 Well, to be honest I didn't mentally link the new engine part with his comments about getting a better weight bias.
My bad.
I should have given a more complete answer and added that a small block car (when altered as I suggested ) could handle better than a big block car. I only bought small block cars back then for that reason.
Also, the headline to the video should have given me a better idea of what his goals were (drag racing) as opposed a track car. In more honesty, I haven't kept track of the modern Mopar engines weights - just HP and drive-ability. You're right - that hellcat engine is probably heavier that a LA block engine.
I do believe that the weight reduction of the parts I mentioned will help with some of the front weight bias.
I'm looking forward to seeing Rob doing the suspension (and that Hellcat engine) and how that alters that car.
Numbers, Matching,.... pausing there for a second,.. Hope you've done the smart thing Rob, and sealed up and stored all the parts you un-bolt. These cars are already worth ridiculous sums, and numbers matching means potential investment, if it is ever resold, even with the awesome new drive line, being able to add in the correct original parts, can boost the resale value significantly.
13:00 - That is such a relief to see in your hands! The torque boxes and subframe connectors will make more difference to the handling then any other change. Yes, even including that tubular front end or the (excuse me while I puke in MoPar B5 Blue,...) the, the, Coil, Overs,... (Huuuuurlllll)
Torsion Bars, set up right, will always out perform coil overs in the same chassis. Because the mass sits lower in the chassis.
I really enjoy your music choices for the edits. Well done to the whole team for making this dream come true! GG Rob!
60:40 wow understeer city lol. Soft tires in the front. Hard in the rear with a soft rear. And an active front to get that weight in the back lol
This is my fav build on RUclips rn. I'm so excited
The 1960s Lincoln Continental is a notable exception to your point about overbuilding. The chassis itself was SO incredibly stiff for its time that even today with coilover and air ride conversions, it drives like a dream.
I am in the middle of putting a 1971 Dodge Dart back together. Definitely different the way everything bolts up in the front end. It was fun trying to figure it out without a shop manual, same for the door and rear windows.
Absolutely loving this build series!
Several points to this:
1) The fact that Dodge would choose Rob to do this shows that he has a good reputation based on his good works and interesting RUclips videos.
2) This isn't rotary, but the same thought process of proper building and engineering is used and pays off handsomely.
3) Some serious chops to complete a resto-mod in several weeks!
So yeah, very interesting content. Dodge chose wisely in Rob Dahm!
Reminds me of the old Saturday/Sunday morning car shows, keep up the good work!
Very impressed! Video and restoration are the highest quality yet. Good work, fellas!
Definitely wanna add some more structure up front to stiff in it up cause on older mopars the fromt fenders are part of the structure and help make the front of the car more rigid
The shared tech bits of the why a part was chosen is what separates this channel from most others .. the science of how and why things aren't just chosen...but braced..rebuilt ...etc ..appeals to everyone from start to finish and carries an eagerness for the next....mastering machines is one thing ..mastering the science of machines is another....you obviously are more than the average parts cannon channel. We need more...not just for the cool ass knowledge packed vids but for helping the industry stay alive and interesting. No nut riders here...still think your crazy for testing the 4 rotor without a scattersheild and that shit sittin in your armpit...but aye' I get it 👌😂...again...Thank You
As soon as I saw the thumbnail my immediate thought was call US Car Tool, they have a kit for this, and here you are using that kit. The only thing I would've done different is I would've installed the subframe connectors while the car was assembled (minus the seats and carpet of course) and sitting on the wheels so that way there is no surprises when reassembling the body of the car due to how flimsy they are. Great work on the progress, can't wait for the next video! Oh and that cardboard piece behind the rear seat wasn't part of the rear seat. It is a separate part to separate the trunk area from the interior. Classic Industries and YearOne both carry it, or you can fabricate a better one out of metal or another material of your choosing.
What a hilariously typical daddy Dahm ending to the video.
I can't wait for the rest of this series. This is gonna be epic
I recently rediscovered your channel and am digging this project so far. Last time I was a regular viewer was when you got your Diablo.
Watching the love you(plural )put in your projects is fun to watch.❤
Robs lock screen made me bust up laughing 🤣🤣 did not expect a passed out cat in a million years haha
6:00
This is why mopar did asymmetrical springs. To help with axle bind.
Better method than anything from that era
Always gotta drop whatever I'm doing when this man uploads
The new music between shots is great. I love it
That was an abrupt ending even for Rob. 😂
Rob you should keep all the parts. If you ever want to sell it it would be worth so much more to restore it back to numbers matching
If the underside, subframe, anything is super greasy. Use Zep purple degreaser. You can get it anywhere. I've used others and that one works the best. Just leave it on for 5 minutes and wash it off. Just don't get it on any bearings. My alternator lasted only 3 days after spraying it on my engine.
11:34 Isaiah gets so happy when he gets to play with fire lol.
This car is going to be a beast! It's getting the love it deserves.
Best day with a Dodge, disassembly, last step compaction. Your a winner!
I know your busy and this is an awesome build and love every video that comes out. Idea what about a 3 Rotor Lambo?
That's not even a lot of rust compared to most vehicles here in Minnesota
More build videos like this please Mr Dahm!
Fyi that's the oem truck divider panel it is meant to hang on the top 2 hooks through the 2 slots. That is exactly how it was built. It didn't fall off the back seat.
New definition of flood car:
"Is there in any flood damage?"
"No, but a portion of the car has been in a high humidity environment. But just briefly"
the power pose for painting @17:16 is amazing
Rob: we gotta take this stuff off because its unhealthy when it burn while welding
Iseah:😀🔥
I've never been so invested in a RUclips channel as I am wiith these guys, definitely could be a tv series 👍
DEFINITELY GOING TO KEEP WATCHING THIS BUILD!!
I’ve enjoyed your channel for years now keep up the good work.
Was it just a cliffhanger or an editing error at the end? Time to wait for the next one
Tremendous work team, 👍💪
I'm super excited to see you part of Roadkill Nights!
Awesome switch up on content this is guys, really enjoying it.
I have always loved the sound of the uneven idle on classic muscle cars. I also love old the same sound when it comes to old Harley's, triumphs & such. Doesnt matter if its a single of twin cylinder. The uneven idle is music.
7:53 And the Oscar goes to Rob Dahm! 😂
Great project, no rotary but great!
One question: will you build rotary engines for others too?
an acid bath would have been so much easier if you guys had the time. great work though considering the time constraints
19:58 “This metal is soooo thin”…
Have you thought about designing and building a Dahm strong tubular chassis body framework, with a driver roll cage and adding a carbon fibre body shell?
How fast do you want to go with your 1000hp?
Are you, or your family, a little bit concerned, especially with the short time frame you have?
Safety First 👍🏼
Lovin’ your enthusiasm.
I think it would have been really cool to have one of those laser rust removal guys come in and put on a show. This car is going to be a beast!
A portable media blaster would have saved so much time and rust dust. 🤷
Ahh Rob giving us all a case of blue balls again at the end haha
What rust product did you use on the inside?! That looks amazing!! Overall excited for this to come together
+1
Very cool.
That cliffhanger ending though!?
I love how Danny McBride can weld as well as being a fantastic comedic actor!
Rob, Chrysler had designed their cars to be dropped down onto the engine cradle and trans for assembly for their workers, which is which is why their is so little re-inforcement on the body for the suspension.
Whatever you do don't have it acid dipped or replace any floor panels...
Needed a Dry Ice Blaster for the rust. Would have helped out
Dry ice blasting is super slow on rust, takes time and costs money.
Watching all of you work makes me want to do this to my car so bad!!! Unfortunately i don’t have the space,money,time,tools,skill or knowledge
Love this content. Breaking down the process, now have a new found respect to those who weld
the factory styles front ends are used on Superstock class race cars running 8.40s average. and complete factory style cars are running 9.4s without power adders. aslo subframe cars Unibodies are better when reinforced at where the door is that body there is where the real reinforcement is needed
On another note when your doing axles use a cable tie to hold it all together while you grease it and put it on the shaft then cut it 👍
It's very cool to see you doing that restomod but what I would like to see is doing a complete change up and put in a rotary engine in ether a two rotor 13b or a three rotor 20b or even a fore rotor 26b and see what it would look like and see how much power you can get out of it
Dam crime, that isn't another stress anyone needs in life. Keep up the amazing work Rob
also, if you want to scrape that stuff off, use dry ice. hold it next to that coating with mig welding gloves if you have to, but it'll freeze that undercoating and break off like potato chips on a countertop
Purists aside, you have to appreciate the amount of effort that is being put into preserving the chassis for the long run. Better preserved and swapped then original and silently rusting away