@Paulmcgowanpsaudio posted this video: • Binding posts or banan... This is our response to that video. Thanks Paul! Tube Connectors: www.gr-research.com/store/p44...
I sat through a 5 hour class at cedia one year, the lecturer kept swapping the speaker wires. I was amazed by the differences in sound quality from cheap lamp cord speaker wire to $500 per ft speaker wire. the differences were AMAZING!!!! imagine our dismay when we found out the wires were NEVER changed and we had been listening to the same generic wires the entire time. I do this for a living (hence cedia invitation) so I'm not some troll. we have in stock a $2000. 6' IEC power cord!!!! I'm just glad I'm not as stupid as our customers!!!!
Yes. And that’s also why the connector makes zero difference. There just is not enough distance to make it worth worrying about conductivity of material, and not enough amps to worry too much about contact area. Your wall outlets use a screw for the wire at best to conduct up to 15amps at 120-240v with essentially zero loss. Audio signals are not magically different from any other electrical signal. But…don’t you think there is something not quite right about calling your customers stupid and selling them stuff you know is pointless?
@ManFromLaBamba you are absolutely correct and I should have chosen my words better. I don't actually sell anything, I'm an installer and should have mentioned we only have those crazy expensive cables when customers insist. Calling anyone stupid is in itself stupid so guess I'm the one that should be embarrassed.
Hey Danny One thing has me puzzled If the dual binding plate is there now , how do I seal that opening for tube connector use? Thank you and I love your information you give us
You've convinced me. When I build my own speakers, there will be no connectors posts or plugs. I'll get good quality speaker wire and solder it directly to the crossover board. The wire will come through a removable panel on the back of the speaker. The "strain relief" will look like a vortex on the back of said panel. If I ever need to change the speaker wire, I'll remove the panel and unsolder it from the crossover.
Hi Danny. I love your channel and also Paul's channel. I repair tonnes of vintage speakers so your information is always great to hear. I'd love for you and Paul to get together. Love to hear your opinion on Paul's IRS5 system. All the best from the UK
After watching about 20 of Paul's videos I came to the (reluctant) conclusion that he is an audio dilettante, not an expert. He runs a very successful company and is a good natured guy but I find his explanations are either too simplified, or he doesn't answer the question and goes off on a tangent or he is sometimes dead wrong. I wouldn't mind sharing a brew with him, but I wouldn't bet the ranch on anything he says.
Nice demonstration. I have one question: Are these differences with these connectors measurable with an oscilloscope or are they only audible? I mean through sensitive ears? Thanks.
I have these on both ends. I did not crimp them just solder. Is it worth redoing them? On my Amp side they slide out pretty easy, is there a way to tighten them?
The question was simply spades or banana connectors on your cables. I really appreciate you explaining in detail the next step in the signal chain and how and why that can effect your choices. I had never concidered the issue of mass.
Hi Danny, if connectors degrade the signal path, then can it show up in one of the charts that you typically use to show results from a speaker. In other words the comparison of a speaker using just tube connectors vs that same speaker using multiple spade and heavy mass connectors chained together with both having audio graphs shared with us? Could you see the difference graphically?
On a typical graph they dont often show up as they aren't sensitive enough and its not something were looking for. But with a good multimeter you might be able to measure the resistance of one end of the connector to another. Danny had a Jamo booksheld in last year that had jumpers that were a 2 Ohm resistance across them, which would attenuate the treble or bass down by roughly 1-2dB depending on what set of binding posts you plugged your cables into. It was really bizarre. Most aren't nearly that bad, but that was a pretty extreme case. Iron in the signal path tends to hold that charge longer than brass, gold or copper, which leads to the loss in clarity, especially in the upper frequencies.
Nicely done. In my personal systemm my speakers uses old school terminal strips with brass screws that tighten the spade down onto copper plates. My amplifier uses the Furutech solid copper posts that are rhodium plated to resist scratching. They are also ratcheting to prevent snapping off the relatively soft copper. Brass is only 27-28% of the conductivity of copper, even though it contains a lot of copper. The tin has that much of an effect.
Hi Danny, learning lots thank you! was wondering could a guy build a pair of speaker cabs and put 2 B&W ccm65 per cabinet? they are in ceiling speakers but wondering if they would work?? If you get a chance thanks
You can make a pair of speakers out of them if you put one in each cabinet. You'd also have to redesign the crossovers for them to compensate for the baffle step loss that you'd get as soon as you put them in a box.
On the inside is 12 gauge. However, we can also use them with our 8 gauge speaker cables. See the pics here: www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=172291.0
You certainly can, all the amps we use in-house are modded to use them, and a few others have done the same as well. You will just need to drill a 11mm or 7/16" hole for them to fit into the chassis, then superglue/hot glue them into place, and wire them directly to the output of your amp.
What do you about a high end speaker cable if it's factory terminated? You snip it and reterminate yourself? What do you do if your speakers have dual binding posts for biwire?
You can cut off the old ends and re-terminate with the male tube connector end. For a bi-wired speaker we recommend to get all of the binding posts out of the signal path and replace them with one pair of tube connectors, then use a good quality cable. That always yields the best results.
first time seeing the tube connector. can it replace the stock binding post whether in speaker or electronic? does it need skillful audio repair/technician to do that change?
Hi, as you mentioned, the more interconnects there are, the worst the signals is gonna get. Will soldering the speakers cables directly into the speakers onto the crossover board be the best way then? (ignoring the aesthetic or ease of changing out the cables)
I have been thinking about upgrading my PSB Imagine T3 I went to your website and I need to find the schematic for the crossover but I cant find it I could ask the manufacture I guess, thoughts? Looking at the interior pics it looks like there is 3 different ones
Something else to consider... As soon as you solder the wire to the post, or wire to the pin, you have a tin-lead (w/ maybe a little silver) interface between the copper wire and post or tube (assuming regular solder), that is several orders magnitude the resistivity of copper wire or brass base material. No matter how pure your wire or connector is, the solder totally swamps any resistance reduction efforts, there. This is typically trivial resistance in any case, as we're talking micro-ohms of total resistance at the total solder interface. Further, a nickel based interface (common plating for electrical connectors and hardware) is almost as good as brass, and MUCH less likely to tarnish over time. There might be Xinese hardware where the binding hardware is unplated mild steel, which isn't good because of potential galvanic reaction. Last, next to soldering, contact PRESSURE is overwhelming the key to good connections; either threaded type, or compound devices, like bananas, with high-tension spring steel and plated plugs. Excellent, super low resistance, used in $$$ test equipment to reliably measure uv and uA currents, and carrying 15A RMS in circuits Tube connectors, in my observation, seem great at their job, but are basically a variation of the banana concept, except $$$.
It’s soldered with silver solder, with no lead. I think the contact surface is quiet a bit more with tube connections. Taking metal out of the signal path also reduces issues. Each have there purpose.
I mean NO disrespect here, but I'm going to ask the hard questions below: I'm the trophy pony for this dog and pony show. I'll say it again because it needs to be firmly planted into the ground, hearts, minds of all parties involved. It's real simple and I'm just quoting myself below: "If it makes no difference "electrically" then it will make NO difference "audibly". When you can actually measure an electrical differential, that is a 'soap box' that anyone can stand upon to prove the difference between A vs B. I am not disagreeing with someone or anyone, I just need the numbers please. Eliminating a resonant or vibrating rattling plastic cup could make a significant difference as well. All of which has nothing to do with electrical conductivity but could still make a huge difference in sonic results..... I'm really point blank asking you for electrical/sonic measurements please. I love your channel but I need the science, the proof. The tell AND the show! Cheers man 🍻.
Showing a measured difference is easy, but that doesn't mean it translates to what we hear. For instance, all of those binding post on the table all have a slight difference in resistance. But does that tell you how they sound? No. You have to know what to measure for to find a correlation to the audible differences, and sometimes that is not easy.
The equipment we use to measure something electrically can show a steady state condition of something being measured by an instrument. How that thing being measured operates in the context of its intended use is often being evaluated by entirely different criteria. The two systems are like Venn diagrams. There will be conditions that they both meet in the same way and, overlap as being the same in measurement terms. There will be other conditions of being that are excluded from the overlap. Just as you say two things can measure identically however, other variables do exist that the measuring system ignores. The use case here involves listening. Electrical measurements don’t enter far enough into that realm to account for differences encountered there. The measurement is therefore not relevant to the use case. If you design a test that shows that things are the same, then it’s not a test that detects other types of difference.
@@christopherward5065: There is no reliable data nor repeatability if all you have is the human ear! For all intents and purpose, it's just pisin in the wind! All of you side step and make it more and more clear that you have something that you're trying to hide. Just one question here..... WHY? If the measurements are so easy then why not show them and prove the point once and for all?
@@Finite-Tuning , measurement is only 1/2 the story. you gotta get beyond that. measure. make a hypothesis, then _listen_ to see if your hypothesis proved correct. youll be *a m a z e d* how often the two dont jibe.
Great presentation Danny! I don’t know if this was mentioned anywhere before, but my idea to help integrate your tube connectors into existing speakers in audiophiles’ homes, would be to offer pre-mounted tube connectors in binding post plates, that match some of the common ones currently in use. That way, people could swap out the inferior ones quite easily. I know this would involve a lot of different styles, but I’m sure they would sell. Look at the ridiculous prices audiophiles are willing to pay for a lot less-audible improvements! Wishing you all the best in your future . 👍🇨🇦
@@dannyrichie9743 Are there different versions of your tubes, to allow 2 wires to fit from the 2 separate crossover networks in the speaker? Wondering if the combination of the two will be "downstream" of the connector, which would probably mean since I am in there already, replacing the wiring in the cabinet. 😁 Agree 100% with the video linked. Only minor difference I picked up expermenting was using a higher end home theater receiver for HF, and a dedicated amp for LF with much higher current rating. Adding a sub into the mix negated any gains from biamping. Thank you for the response!
It makes sense though... ! After tuning in to GR I've been shocked over how many speaker manufactures that are cutting corners in parts that has so mush to do with sound quality ... I would love if there was someone in the hood that could give him a Yamaha NS-1000 M to measure.... :) I've read Trouls Gravesen's take on them.... !
This is really helpful. For those who have (like 99% of the audio market) purchased speakers with binding posts, it seems that we don[t have an option. However, the “tube connectors” on the cable end seem equivalent, if not actually the same as, pin connectors. Europe, and maybe other jurisdictions, have banned pin connectors because they can easily be inserted into AC circuit outlets. I doubt you are selling much in those markets, but I just found the similarity interesting. You’re REAL task is to get the attention of speaker manufacturers, not just the domestic US DIY market. Given the global nature of audio, I don’t have much hope for that! All the best - I enjoy your channel a lot.
Thank you for finally explaining what tube connectors are and what benefit they provide. I've been watching a number of your videos and keep hearing them mentioned, but had no clear idea of their benefits, just that they were "better" or "the best" connectors. 👍🙂
Once again great job explaining this Danny. Something as simple as cleaning your contacts on a well set up $1,000 system makes a very noticeable difference. I knew that 40 yrs ago. I didn’t need a measurement to know that. I won’t buy an expensive speaker with a plastic cup in the back(budget gear it’s unavoidable). Something like a Revel 126be is an example. No big deal to most but it looks cheap to me.
What does Klipsch use? This is the easiest way for me to know, just to ask you versus me going in and tearing into my Klipsch speakers not really knowing what I’m looking at. Right? Thanks in advance
Howdy Danny,. Thanks for the this video very informative. Can you also comment on how only modifying 1/2 of the signal with tube connectors make any difference if there are still binding posts on the amp. Or should we also change these to tube connectors. How would you mount a push in tube connector to the steel back plate of an amp? Do you have some sort of pressure fit slip on collar for this? Hope you will take the time to educate me on this this as I am ready for my next upgrade .
Note from the video that there are varying degrees of the quality of binding posts. The really good ones are still pretty good. Some amps are easy to swap out to tube connectors and some are not. I might have to do a video on adding them to amps.
Thanks Danny for your clear insight. I have some Vintage Linn Nexus Speakers that require tubes or bananas to connect the speaker. I made my own cables using some Ultra Low Mass High Contact area silver plated copper tubes (banana Z plugs)from Nerve Audio crimped and soldered to Mogami 12 ga cable for the main speaker cables. The tubes fit just like a banana plug into the back of the amp and into the speakers. I was bi-wiring, but opted to use Mogami 12 ga wire and with Silver plated tube connectors for jumpers. Then I crimped and soldered the tubes to some Mogami 12 ga wire. I used Cardas solder for all terminations. I realize that this was just the speaker wire and not the binding posts. The first time I heard the speakers using the new cables, I was surprised and impressed at the noticeable improvement!
Got any measurements to show what you are talking about? Would be really helpful to show some graphs of distortion of frequency response changes from the different materials/connectors etc...
Are those tube cable connectors the same with the banana plugs? I need my cable speakers for my other loudspeakers by using banana plugs at the moment.
A cup of water and a cup of vodka measure exactly the same if all you're measuring is volume and color. Same thing applies to audio. Sound quality is not made up of volts watts and ohms. The difference cables and connectors can make is in the way the sound waves have distorted in their travels through components. An unshielded silver coated copper wire will measure the same as a shielded oxygen free copper cable, so you can't go by measurements alone. You have to listen for the differences. Personally, I'm only willing to go so far. My ears can't hear the difference between a tube amp and a solid state amp, so cables and connectors aren't going to make any difference to me, but I'm willing to buy the best I can afford and leave it at that.
Hey Danny! I've been toying with the idea of buying at least two pairs of these for a while now, but I'm put off by the customs duties and import taxes for Germany, where I live. Is there any way to get them shipped from within the EU?
One bottle neck doesn't justify another. Any improvement is an improvement, and those binding posts on the amp might accept a tube connector swap as well.
from a "proper signal conduction with lesser degradation while using some loudspeaker mounted interface" standpoint, indeed your tube connectors are the best way to go and are indeed a steal at this price. kudos!
Good said and done but the unorthodox for my speakers is that the 5 euro iron post i have music have more dynamics than the hi end i purchased from china. Can anyone explain that! The only advantage is more detailed uper frequencies.
He hired a machine shop to make them, I'm sure. He doesn't have to say what the markup is, although it did seem like he was about to. All the same, they aren't pricey, and none of us are entitled to say what kind of markup it should be.
Good explanation. Thanks. I can't hear the difference (yes, I have them), but my room sucks, so that may have something to do with it. I really like the RP-600m crossover kit. It completely changes those speakers.
Haha, yeah I noticed that when Paul said that. Made me wonder how many people in the audio community have even HEARD of tube connectors. The first I ever hear of them (and only place since) is right here on your channel.
wouldn't point to point be the lowest mass best contact? yes inconvenient but speaker wire directly to crossover wouldn't that be just as good if u dont mind a permanent wire attached to the speaker ?
My take on all of this is if you can hear the difference between cables, connectors or crossover component quality and you care about then go ahead. If like me you can't hear the difference then don't bother.
What do you when want to test/try out other speaker cables? How about if you own multiple pairs of speaker cables? Install male tube connectors on every pair? Also are the male tube connectors diameter the same as a standard banana plug? Will it fit snug in a typical five way binding Post?
So, what you are saying is, if I am old and never plan on changing my speakers, then I should solder my speaker wires directly into my amp out signal wires? THIS is the best connection ???
I’ve found you can hear the difference when you retighten speaker binding posts or the connection to banana plugs - they can become looser with time. So I really believe they can make a subtle difference.
Is there such a thing as audio grade solder? We go through all the work of getting poor quality materials out of the signal path but then use solder which is made out of what?
All I know for sure is after buying building and listening to the speakers I got from you I am inclined to trust everything you say when it comes to speakers! I now feel like I am in music Heaven.
100% all the way, but always think for yourself so we don’t fall into the argument from authority fallacy. The good thing about Danny is that he doesn’t need anyone to simply trust what he says because he can back it up with measurements and established principles that make sense.
I'd love to see a blind listening test to see how much of a difference people would notice. I tried one with 4 friends and only one noticed a difference between £30/ m silver speaker cable and cheap 89 strand 😫
It depends on how much resolution your complete system has I have been in the trade for 40 years and I always say to customers try another cable or any upgrade item first then only buy it if it makes a real improvement
@@pauldavies6037 Peoples hearing differs hugely too, my sons and their friends fail to hear difference's after years of listening to ear bleeding levels in nightclubs and festivals 😬
Point is are your ears Full Range from 20-20000Hz? By the time you hit 15 years of age, you don't usually hear above 17000Hz. So all this talk of hearing more detail and stuff at 30-80 years of age is questionable.
My question is this, are the sonic differences actually measurable? Frequency response is obviously measurable but some terms such as detail or transparency most likely are not, I could be wrong and would love to be corrected.
Have you ever measured, frequency response, resistance, impedence and capacitance on all these types of speaker terminals? I would be very interested in actual measured performance of these products. How about it Danny?
The frequency response as measured at the speaker doesn't change unless resistance changes and then it is still a slight change. It is not the amplitude of the signal that we need to look for to see the changes. There are a lot of ways that the signal is disrupted all along the path and we need to look at it as a whole. Then the real test is the listening test. If it does or doesn't alter what we hear is what matters.
@@dannyrichie9743 Given that, then why not just include high quality cables that are directly wired into the crossover and bypass the speaker connectors all together. For that matter most amplifiers also have worthless speaker connectors on them! Sorry I'm not trying to be argumentative but just where does one stop improvements? Thanks for your indulgence.
@@johndost3087 Sometimes I use a stereo amp and sometimes I use mono-blocks. Depending on which I use determines how long I want my cables to be. Having a hard wired cable on the speakers is not convenient. I might come across a better cable that I want to try. We also put tube connectors on the backs of our in house amps, and why not?
In light of the binding post issues and it's pros and cons, what's to stop the speaker cable going straight from the crossover connection direct to the posts on the amp which can be the point of cable removal for "housekeeping" . All that's needed then is a cable "lock" or grab, on the inside panel of the speaker to ensure no stress on the solder points.
I like your videos as well as Paul's. As long as we're primarily focused on DIY, what about just running cable straight from the crossover to the amp? And... When terminating at 5 way binding posts, wouldn't bare wire be the most positive connection with the least signal loss?
If the cables are hard wired in then you are stuck with what you have and can't as easily change it. Also, bare wire oxidizes rather quickly and then that will really set you back.
Very informative! Did he ask you to explain these or was this a challenge of a sort? Either way I like seeing the collaboration between two possible competitors.
Hi Danny!!! I always see your videos and the videos from Paul and few days ago i see the video of Paul about the connector he did a mistake calling the fork binding post :-) . But i understand his concept. Just few days ago i soldered directly the internal wiring of my amp to it's binding post, instead of the crimped connector fixed with the two bolts , and wow!!! it sounds amazing!!! i already expect this results because i did many experiments with cables connectors and so on , but i wait to touch my amp inside. Your videos are great, i've your same thinking on my aspect about the audio world. Have a nice day!!!!
What about just going direct to the crossover board with your 10' speaker cable from the amp, that way you won't have to worry about using, tube, binding post or any other connectors? If I know I won't use the speakers anywhere else and I am staying within the 10' distance.
Yes you can. You won’t get the full potential of the tube connector that way. But you will get most of the benefits. This is what I am currently doing and have good results. I feel the most important end is the female end.
JR is correct. They were designed to also accept a standard banana plug. There is a little performance hit there, but they will accept them with no issues.
@@dannyrichie9743 I get it....those cheap parts are magnetic. But how is the sound changed? I'm honestly asking. Does it blur the sound or something more measurable?
Without question Danny, the tube connector is superior to any other connection at any price. Just try an Eichmann RCA to prove that the minimalist aproach is a more rewarding upgrade then you could believe possible.
I am sure there is sonic benefit for the tube connectors, but I am still confused about how they work. Are your speaker cables permanently attached to the speakers when you use these. Or is it like bananas or a spades where you can disconnect and connect if needed.
like traditional binding posts.....there is a tube termination on the speaker wire end. and there is a female rcvr on the speaker end. the speaker wire gets shove alllll the way thru the male end, then crimped & soldered. then in the rcvr there is speaker wire..... when you insert the male into the female... the tip of the male wire it literally butt up against the tip of the female wire. imagine your two index fingers touching each other tip to tip. kinda like a chinese finger trap. hope that helps.
I love the idea of the tube connectors making a snug fit, end to end wires, and getting all that mass out of the signal path. I am a big fan of solid core silver wire in my speakers, and home made speaker cables, too. Any chance of making the tube connectors in silver as well as the gold?
I (also) love the sound of, the weight and body of silver... (people) others can debate the limits of the(ir) budgets, HiFi rigs and hearing abilities. I will be enjoying exceptional sound while (others) debate on.
@@questioneverything1123 you don't have to pay a lot of money to get good sound quality but if that's what it takes for you to feel important then by all means I won't stop your half deaf self and in the English words of my Butler Henry "hmmm, good day Sir, and try not to be an ass for the rest of it so that I don't have to prepare an extra stall for you to sleep in tonight with the other horses"
@@SheikhN-bible-syndrome What drugs are you on man? I don’t pay a lot of money for my cables they are all “home made”, but are also very high quality. Solid core silver is not very expensive. Clearly you have no diy skills so I don’t expect you to understand the cost effectiveness of using quality materials.
@@karlcotleanu486you probably can't even use a circular saw LOL I was addressing your snooty comment about people complaining about money while you listen to your solid silver core pseudo wire that through cognitive dissidents you swear sound better
@@dannyrichie9743 A frequency response curve could be informative, as to the magnitude and specificity of audible output. That sort of analysis, however, might not be approachable? Or even desirable, perhaps? Hard to know, absent data and information, I suppose.
For the last 17 years or about , I when customization and building my own speakers I solder the speaker cable to the input of the crossovers, with the speaker wire is cut to the length of what I will need as a maximum length , that way there is no interruption in the signal path except the outputs of the amps and the crossovers themselves , that is the only way I will do it . And it cuts the cost out of the connectors . Bit thats what I like to do .
That's my plan... Straight cable from the crossover to the rear of the amp, no connectors.. I know my speakers won't move in the near future, so no need to have removable cables.
Man seems like if your getting that far in the weeds trying to improve the signal path why not just solder your speaker cable directly to the crossover network?
Speakers are swapped out around here all the time. If we did that then we'd have a set of speaker cables on every speaker. Sometimes I need liong ones for stereo amps and short ones for mono-blocks. And sometimes we like trying different types of cables. So we need the cables to be separate from each speaker.
Great explanation. Would love to see a close up of the connectors. I'm not confident in my ability to solder, otherwise I'd get myself a set of the tube connectors.
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Hey Danny! Great job of making it more clear. Cheers! Paul
Paul you should give these a shot in your speakers or try these and make another video!
@@badd99 or add them to the $65k speaker cables he sells.
Two of my favorite people in current high end audio! This is awesome!
Sounds like PS Audio should consider using these in their speakers? Supply the cable ends with them. Just sayin
I want Danny Richie, Ethan Weinar, and Paul McGowan in an octagon fighting it out.
There will be blood.
No snakes were injured during the making of this video!
but there is a whole lot of oil all over everything :)
I sat through a 5 hour class at cedia one year, the lecturer kept swapping the speaker wires. I was amazed by the differences in sound quality from cheap lamp cord speaker wire to $500 per ft speaker wire. the differences were AMAZING!!!! imagine our dismay when we found out the wires were NEVER changed and we had been listening to the same generic wires the entire time. I do this for a living (hence cedia invitation) so I'm not some troll. we have in stock a $2000. 6' IEC power cord!!!! I'm just glad I'm not as stupid as our customers!!!!
Yes. And that’s also why the connector makes zero difference. There just is not enough distance to make it worth worrying about conductivity of material, and not enough amps to worry too much about contact area. Your wall outlets use a screw for the wire at best to conduct up to 15amps at 120-240v with essentially zero loss. Audio signals are not magically different from any other electrical signal.
But…don’t you think there is something not quite right about calling your customers stupid and selling them stuff you know is pointless?
@ManFromLaBamba you are absolutely correct and I should have chosen my words better. I don't actually sell anything, I'm an installer and should have mentioned we only have those crazy expensive cables when customers insist. Calling anyone stupid is in itself stupid so guess I'm the one that should be embarrassed.
When the order comes in you should send a couple of sets to Paul.
Hey Danny
One thing has me puzzled
If the dual binding plate is there now , how do I seal that opening for tube connector use?
Thank you and I love your information you give us
You've convinced me.
When I build my own speakers, there will be no connectors posts or plugs.
I'll get good quality speaker wire and solder it directly to the crossover board. The wire will come through a removable panel on the back of the speaker. The "strain relief" will look like a vortex on the back of said panel. If I ever need to change the speaker wire, I'll remove the panel and unsolder it from the crossover.
Hi Danny. I love your channel and also Paul's channel. I repair tonnes of vintage speakers so your information is always great to hear. I'd love for you and Paul to get together. Love to hear your opinion on Paul's IRS5 system. All the best from the UK
Two questions... Which crimper tool do you recommend & would it be better to use silver solder ?? Thx 😎👍
What are the term you measure by for resistance, and 2 other wire measurements ?
After watching about 20 of Paul's videos I came to the (reluctant) conclusion that he is an audio dilettante, not an expert. He runs a very successful company and is a good natured guy but I find his explanations are either too simplified, or he doesn't answer the question and goes off on a tangent or he is sometimes dead wrong. I wouldn't mind sharing a brew with him, but I wouldn't bet the ranch on anything he says.
I wired my X-statik directly from the speaker to the amplifier, yes, direct. Nothing can top that.
Does the uncoated copper tarnish over time? Do you need to unplug/plug them on a regular basis to clean them and make a fresh correction?
They are Gold coated.
Nice demonstration. I have one question: Are these differences with these connectors measurable with an oscilloscope or are they only audible?
I mean through sensitive ears? Thanks.
Some aspects are easy to measure. The differences are easy to hear.
I have these on both ends. I did not crimp them just solder. Is it worth redoing them? On my Amp side they slide out pretty easy, is there a way to tighten them?
I wouldn't redo them as that might really involve replacing them.
I'm a year late and new to this, but is it ok to drill new holes into your speaker cabinet?
Yes you can.
Do they make chassis mount Tube connectors for the back plane of an amp?
They are not specifically designed for that but we have mounted a lot of them that way.
Hay Danny. Can the tube connectors replace the nasty binding posts fitted in those binding post cups
Yes they can. I show that in a video I shot on the Klipsch RP-600M.
The question was simply spades or banana connectors on your cables. I really appreciate you explaining in detail the next step in the signal chain and how and why that can effect your choices. I had never concidered the issue of mass.
Hi Danny, if connectors degrade the signal path, then can it show up in one of the charts that you typically use to show results from a speaker. In other words the comparison of a speaker using just tube connectors vs that same speaker using multiple spade and heavy mass connectors chained together with both having audio graphs shared with us? Could you see the difference graphically?
He'd probably need to do a test similar to this: ruclips.net/video/zncAhs44sp8/видео.html
On a typical graph they dont often show up as they aren't sensitive enough and its not something were looking for. But with a good multimeter you might be able to measure the resistance of one end of the connector to another. Danny had a Jamo booksheld in last year that had jumpers that were a 2 Ohm resistance across them, which would attenuate the treble or bass down by roughly 1-2dB depending on what set of binding posts you plugged your cables into. It was really bizarre. Most aren't nearly that bad, but that was a pretty extreme case.
Iron in the signal path tends to hold that charge longer than brass, gold or copper, which leads to the loss in clarity, especially in the upper frequencies.
The differences aren't going to show up in a frequency response measurement.
@@hoth2112 Resistance of more than 100 meters of cable you would use to wire sockets in a house. What bollocks
Nicely done. In my personal systemm my speakers uses old school terminal strips with brass screws that tighten the spade down onto copper plates. My amplifier uses the Furutech solid copper posts that are rhodium plated to resist scratching. They are also ratcheting to prevent snapping off the relatively soft copper. Brass is only 27-28% of the conductivity of copper, even though it contains a lot of copper. The tin has that much of an effect.
Hi love the videos what if you solder the wires strait on the Xover to the amp so no connectors.?
what gauge wire max will fit in these? i have 12 g i think
We use them on the end of 8 gauge speaker cables.
Hi Danny, learning lots thank you! was wondering could a guy build a pair of speaker cabs and put 2 B&W ccm65 per cabinet? they are in ceiling speakers but wondering if they would work??
If you get a chance thanks
You can make a pair of speakers out of them if you put one in each cabinet. You'd also have to redesign the crossovers for them to compensate for the baffle step loss that you'd get as soon as you put them in a box.
What is the largest gauge wire that will fit in a tube connector?
On the inside is 12 gauge. However, we can also use them with our 8 gauge speaker cables. See the pics here: www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=172291.0
can you install tube connectors on the amplifier speaker output?
You certainly can, all the amps we use in-house are modded to use them, and a few others have done the same as well. You will just need to drill a 11mm or 7/16" hole for them to fit into the chassis, then superglue/hot glue them into place, and wire them directly to the output of your amp.
What do you about a high end speaker cable if it's factory terminated? You snip it and reterminate yourself?
What do you do if your speakers have dual binding posts for biwire?
You can cut off the old ends and re-terminate with the male tube connector end.
For a bi-wired speaker we recommend to get all of the binding posts out of the signal path and replace them with one pair of tube connectors, then use a good quality cable. That always yields the best results.
first time seeing the tube connector. can it replace the stock binding post whether in speaker or electronic? does it need skillful audio repair/technician to do that change?
Yes, you can replace stock binding posts in any speaker and some electronics. They are easier to install than a binding post.
Hi, as you mentioned, the more interconnects there are, the worst the signals is gonna get. Will soldering the speakers cables directly into the speakers onto the crossover board be the best way then? (ignoring the aesthetic or ease of changing out the cables)
If done properly it can be the best in some regards.
I have been thinking about upgrading my PSB Imagine T3 I went to your website and I need to find the schematic for the crossover but I cant find it I could ask the manufacture I guess, thoughts? Looking at the interior pics it looks like there is 3 different ones
Something else to consider... As soon as you solder the wire to the post, or wire to the pin, you have a tin-lead (w/ maybe a little silver) interface between the copper wire and post or tube (assuming regular solder), that is several orders magnitude the resistivity of copper wire or brass base material. No matter how pure your wire or connector is, the solder totally swamps any resistance reduction efforts, there. This is typically trivial resistance in any case, as we're talking micro-ohms of total resistance at the total solder interface. Further, a nickel based interface (common plating for electrical connectors and hardware) is almost as good as brass, and MUCH less likely to tarnish over time. There might be Xinese hardware where the binding hardware is unplated mild steel, which isn't good because of potential galvanic reaction. Last, next to soldering, contact PRESSURE is overwhelming the key to good connections; either threaded type, or compound devices, like bananas, with high-tension spring steel and plated plugs. Excellent, super low resistance, used in $$$ test equipment to reliably measure uv and uA currents, and carrying 15A RMS in circuits Tube connectors, in my observation, seem great at their job, but are basically a variation of the banana concept, except $$$.
Agree completely, I was just going to write this point but you have covered it well in your post.
It’s soldered with silver solder, with no lead. I think the contact surface is quiet a bit more with tube connections. Taking metal out of the signal path also reduces issues. Each have there purpose.
I mean NO disrespect here, but I'm going to ask the hard questions below:
I'm the trophy pony for this dog and pony show. I'll say it again because it needs to be firmly planted into the ground, hearts, minds of all parties involved. It's real simple and I'm just quoting myself below:
"If it makes no difference "electrically" then it will make NO difference "audibly".
When you can actually measure an electrical differential, that is a 'soap box' that anyone can stand upon to prove the difference between A vs B. I am not disagreeing with someone or anyone, I just need the numbers please. Eliminating a resonant or vibrating rattling plastic cup could make a significant difference as well. All of which has nothing to do with electrical conductivity but could still make a huge difference in sonic results.....
I'm really point blank asking you for electrical/sonic measurements please. I love your channel but I need the science, the proof. The tell AND the show!
Cheers man 🍻.
Showing a measured difference is easy, but that doesn't mean it translates to what we hear. For instance, all of those binding post on the table all have a slight difference in resistance. But does that tell you how they sound? No. You have to know what to measure for to find a correlation to the audible differences, and sometimes that is not easy.
@@dannyrichie9743 :
So you're deleting my posts?
The equipment we use to measure something electrically can show a steady state condition of something being measured by an instrument. How that thing being measured operates in the context of its intended use is often being evaluated by entirely different criteria. The two systems are like Venn diagrams. There will be conditions that they both meet in the same way and, overlap as being the same in measurement terms. There will be other conditions of being that are excluded from the overlap. Just as you say two things can measure identically however, other variables do exist that the measuring system ignores. The use case here involves listening. Electrical measurements don’t enter far enough into that realm to account for differences encountered there. The measurement is therefore not relevant to the use case.
If you design a test that shows that things are the same, then it’s not a test that detects other types of difference.
@@christopherward5065:
There is no reliable data nor repeatability if all you have is the human ear! For all intents and purpose, it's just pisin in the wind! All of you side step and make it more and more clear that you have something that you're trying to hide. Just one question here..... WHY?
If the measurements are so easy then why not show them and prove the point once and for all?
@@Finite-Tuning , measurement is only 1/2 the story. you gotta get beyond that.
measure. make a hypothesis, then _listen_ to see if your hypothesis proved correct.
youll be *a m a z e d* how often the two dont jibe.
It's almost seemed like Paul meant to say spade connectors instead of binding posts. A senior moment.
What if you just solder the speaker wire directly to the crossover.... no connector.
You can, but you are stuck with that cable on that speaker.
You are then unable to spend even more money on new cables.
Great presentation Danny! I don’t know if this was mentioned anywhere before, but my idea to help integrate your tube connectors into existing speakers in audiophiles’ homes, would be to offer pre-mounted tube connectors in binding post plates, that match some of the common ones currently in use. That way, people could swap out the inferior ones quite easily. I know this would involve a lot of different styles, but I’m sure they would sell. Look at the ridiculous prices audiophiles are willing to pay for a lot less-audible improvements!
Wishing you all the best in your future . 👍🇨🇦
If there were only a standard binding post cup size used....
@@dannyrichie9743 A Aluminium plate that covers most opening would be a good start
One other thought, What about the connection to the amp? If you have banana connectors on one end, do tube connectors on the other help much?
They do.
Bad binding posts degrade the sound because they cause more resistance/impedance for the amplifier? Would love to see measurements
Signal path is still an issue due to the amp and/or receiver using binding posts. We need to install tube connectors on the equipment too, right?
You can, and many of our customers certainly do.
How do you install the tube connectors?
Here is a video on it. ruclips.net/video/uevd5RFXwCU/видео.html
Do you have an option for bi-wired (HF and LF posts per speaker) binding posts, when only using one amplifier for both lows and highs?
I shot a video on that too: ruclips.net/video/908BWw1Bx4U/видео.html
@@dannyrichie9743 Are there different versions of your tubes, to allow 2 wires to fit from the 2 separate crossover networks in the speaker? Wondering if the combination of the two will be "downstream" of the connector, which would probably mean since I am in there already, replacing the wiring in the cabinet. 😁
Agree 100% with the video linked. Only minor difference I picked up expermenting was using a higher end home theater receiver for HF, and a dedicated amp for LF with much higher current rating. Adding a sub into the mix negated any gains from biamping.
Thank you for the response!
@@bluesteelbass There is only one tube connector version and they can be used with multi driver speakers.
It makes sense though... ! After tuning in to GR I've been shocked over how many speaker manufactures that are cutting corners in parts that has so mush to do with sound quality ... I would love if there was someone in the hood that could give him a Yamaha NS-1000 M to measure.... :) I've read Trouls Gravesen's take on them.... !
This is really helpful. For those who have (like 99% of the audio market) purchased speakers with binding posts, it seems that we don[t have an option. However, the “tube connectors” on the cable end seem equivalent, if not actually the same as, pin connectors. Europe, and maybe other jurisdictions, have banned pin connectors because they can easily be inserted into AC circuit outlets. I doubt you are selling much in those markets, but I just found the similarity interesting. You’re REAL task is to get the attention of speaker manufacturers, not just the domestic US DIY market. Given the global nature of audio, I don’t have much hope for that! All the best - I enjoy your channel a lot.
There is an option for those who have installed binding posts. See my comment above.
Thank you for finally explaining what tube connectors are and what benefit they provide. I've been watching a number of your videos and keep hearing them mentioned, but had no clear idea of their benefits, just that they were "better" or "the best" connectors. 👍🙂
Ill check your web site but what gauge wire can the connectors accept?
The female tube connectors can take up to 12 gauge internally. We use the male ends on our 8 gauge 24 strand braided cable.
Once again great job explaining this Danny. Something as simple as cleaning your contacts on a well set up $1,000 system makes a very noticeable difference. I knew that 40 yrs ago. I didn’t need a measurement to know that. I won’t buy an expensive speaker with a plastic cup in the back(budget gear it’s unavoidable). Something like a Revel 126be is an example. No big deal to most but it looks cheap to me.
What does Klipsch use? This is the easiest way for me to know, just to ask you versus me going in and tearing into my Klipsch speakers not really knowing what I’m looking at. Right? Thanks in advance
They use very budget level parts.
If I never plan to move or change speakers, then why not a straight wire to wire connection and skip the binding post?
You can do that if no further upgrades are in your future.
What is ' cold welding' ?
Howdy Danny,. Thanks for the this video very informative. Can you also comment on how only modifying 1/2 of the signal with tube connectors make any difference if there are still binding posts on the amp. Or should we also change these to tube connectors. How would you mount a push in tube connector to the steel back plate of an amp? Do you have some sort of pressure fit slip on collar for this?
Hope you will take the time to educate me on this this as I am ready for my next upgrade .
Note from the video that there are varying degrees of the quality of binding posts. The really good ones are still pretty good. Some amps are easy to swap out to tube connectors and some are not. I might have to do a video on adding them to amps.
Thanks Danny for your clear insight.
I have some Vintage Linn Nexus Speakers that require tubes or bananas to connect the speaker. I made my own cables using some Ultra Low Mass High Contact area silver plated copper tubes (banana Z plugs)from Nerve Audio crimped and soldered to Mogami 12 ga cable for the main speaker cables. The tubes fit just like a banana plug into the back of the amp and into the speakers. I was bi-wiring, but opted to use Mogami 12 ga wire and with Silver plated tube connectors for jumpers. Then I crimped and soldered the tubes to some Mogami 12 ga wire. I used Cardas solder for all terminations. I realize that this was just the speaker wire and not the binding posts. The first time I heard the speakers using the new cables, I was surprised and impressed at the noticeable improvement!
Got any measurements to show what you are talking about? Would be really helpful to show some graphs of distortion of frequency response changes from the different materials/connectors etc...
What is your opinion about wire to wire twisted together?
We point to point wire our crososovers that way.
Are those tube cable connectors the same with the banana plugs? I need my cable speakers for my other loudspeakers by using banana plugs at the moment.
They do accept banana plugs, but using banana plugs comes with a performance hit.
Where can i buy Those tubes connecters? I live in sweden
Can you show please, measurements difference between steel/brass connectors?
A cup of water and a cup of vodka measure exactly the same if all you're measuring is volume and color. Same thing applies to audio. Sound quality is not made up of volts watts and ohms. The difference cables and connectors can make is in the way the sound waves have distorted in their travels through components. An unshielded silver coated copper wire will measure the same as a shielded oxygen free copper cable, so you can't go by measurements alone. You have to listen for the differences. Personally, I'm only willing to go so far. My ears can't hear the difference between a tube amp and a solid state amp, so cables and connectors aren't going to make any difference to me, but I'm willing to buy the best I can afford and leave it at that.
Hey Danny! I've been toying with the idea of buying at least two pairs of these for a while now, but I'm put off by the customs duties and import taxes for Germany, where I live. Is there any way to get them shipped from within the EU?
Sorry, but they only ship from here.
Q: Danny how can sound improve when amps use standard outputs of lesser quality ?
One bottle neck doesn't justify another. Any improvement is an improvement, and those binding posts on the amp might accept a tube connector swap as well.
from a "proper signal conduction with lesser degradation while using some loudspeaker mounted interface" standpoint, indeed your tube connectors are the best way to go and are indeed a steal at this price. kudos!
How can I get these in the UK?
We can ship or mail them to you.
Good said and done but the unorthodox for my speakers is that the 5 euro iron post i have music have more dynamics than the hi end i purchased from china.
Can anyone explain that! The only advantage is more detailed uper frequencies.
What is the largest gauge of wire that can be inserted?
We use the male ends on our 8 gauge braided cable. The female end will take up to 11 gauge of internal wire.
Danny. Can these tube connectors be used on the other end? In the amplifier? Please think about it how to adopt to DIY amps...
We use them in all of our amps.
@@dannyrichie9743 :) so I thought...
Ok what is the markup on them didn't say! Who's the manufacturer??
He hired a machine shop to make them, I'm sure. He doesn't have to say what the markup is, although it did seem like he was about to. All the same, they aren't pricey, and none of us are entitled to say what kind of markup it should be.
Good explanation. Thanks.
I can't hear the difference (yes, I have them), but my room sucks, so that may have something to do with it.
I really like the RP-600m crossover kit. It completely changes those speakers.
Thanks!
Why would the mass of a physical connection make any difference to the electrical properties?
Haha, yeah I noticed that when Paul said that. Made me wonder how many people in the audio community have even HEARD of tube connectors. The first I ever hear of them (and only place since) is right here on your channel.
Can you add tubes to the amp end of the speaker cables and amplifier?
Some amplifiers can be upgraded to tube connectors.
wouldn't point to point be the lowest mass best contact? yes inconvenient but speaker wire directly to crossover wouldn't that be just as good if u dont mind a permanent wire attached to the speaker ?
That can be done, but we swap out speakers and cables so often that wouldn't make sense for us and most of our customers.
.....ooorrr, you can have direct connected speaker cable to your crossover with zero added in the signal path other than your amp... for free.
Sure, but not many people actually operate their speakers in that manner.
My take on all of this is if you can hear the difference between cables, connectors or crossover component quality and you care about then go ahead. If like me you can't hear the difference then don't bother.
What do you when want to test/try out other speaker cables? How about if you own multiple pairs of speaker cables? Install male tube connectors on every pair? Also are the male tube connectors diameter the same as a standard banana plug? Will it fit snug in a typical five way binding Post?
The female tube connectors will accept a standard banana plug.
And we do put male tube connector ends on all of our best cables.
So, what you are saying is, if I am old and never plan on changing my speakers, then I should solder my speaker wires directly into my amp out signal wires? THIS is the best connection ???
That is correct.
I’ve found you can hear the difference when you retighten speaker binding posts or the connection to banana plugs - they can become looser with time. So I really believe they can make a subtle difference.
Well. I sure will watch my stuff so it doesn’t get looser. Thanks.
Do these things work with 10 AWG wire ???
We use the male ends on our 8 gauge speaker cable.
Is there such a thing as audio grade solder? We go through all the work of getting poor quality materials out of the signal path but then use solder which is made out of what?
There is. Look for solder with some Copper content. Cardas makes some nice solder, but it is pricey.
All I know for sure is after buying building and listening to the speakers I got from you I am inclined to trust everything you say when it comes to speakers! I now feel like I am in music Heaven.
100% all the way, but always think for yourself so we don’t fall into the argument from authority fallacy. The good thing about Danny is that he doesn’t need anyone to simply trust what he says because he can back it up with measurements and established principles that make sense.
@@isabellaandsophia7527 Sheep, believe what you want to. He doesn't once mention what the sonic improvements are.
LMFAO
What about corrosion? Bare copper gets oxidized over a short period. Suggestions?
Tube connectors are Gold coated.
I'd love to see a blind listening test to see how much of a difference people would notice. I tried one with 4 friends and only one noticed a difference between £30/ m silver speaker cable and cheap 89 strand 😫
It depends on how much resolution your complete system has I have been in the trade for 40 years and I always say to customers try another cable or any upgrade item first then only buy it if it makes a real improvement
that's 25%,is a lot.
@@pauldavies6037 Peoples hearing differs hugely too, my sons and their friends fail to hear difference's after years of listening to ear bleeding levels in nightclubs and festivals 😬
@@tetrapro2010 Not at £30 a meter, imagine wallpapering your lounge and only 1 in 4 of your friends noticed your handy work 😂😂
Point is are your ears Full Range from 20-20000Hz? By the time you hit 15 years of age, you don't usually hear above 17000Hz. So all this talk of hearing more detail and stuff at 30-80 years of age is questionable.
My question is this, are the sonic differences actually measurable? Frequency response is obviously measurable but some terms such as detail or transparency most likely are not, I could be wrong and would love to be corrected.
You aren't going to see measured differences in a frequency response. You are correct in that areas like detail and transparency are affected.
@@dannyrichie9743 Appreciate the response Danny as you’re a busy man.
Have you ever measured, frequency response, resistance, impedence and capacitance on all these types of speaker terminals? I would be very interested in actual measured performance of these products. How about it Danny?
The frequency response as measured at the speaker doesn't change unless resistance changes and then it is still a slight change. It is not the amplitude of the signal that we need to look for to see the changes. There are a lot of ways that the signal is disrupted all along the path and we need to look at it as a whole. Then the real test is the listening test. If it does or doesn't alter what we hear is what matters.
@@dannyrichie9743 Given that, then why not just include high quality cables that are directly wired into the crossover and bypass the speaker connectors all together. For that matter most amplifiers also have worthless speaker connectors on them! Sorry I'm not trying to be argumentative but just where does one stop improvements? Thanks for your indulgence.
@@johndost3087 Sometimes I use a stereo amp and sometimes I use mono-blocks. Depending on which I use determines how long I want my cables to be. Having a hard wired cable on the speakers is not convenient. I might come across a better cable that I want to try. We also put tube connectors on the backs of our in house amps, and why not?
@@dannyrichie9743 thanks for your indulgence Danny. I'm a big fan of yours by the way. Thanks for what you do.
For over 50 years standard electrical tests are still not enough to hear audible differences in high quality audio equipment that "measure" perfect
In light of the binding post issues and it's pros and cons, what's to stop the speaker cable going straight from the crossover connection direct to the posts on the amp which can be the point of cable removal for "housekeeping" . All that's needed then is a cable "lock" or grab, on the inside panel of the speaker to ensure no stress on the solder points.
We need a Discovery Channel myth Busters episode to test these connectors for proper "Electrcal flow" and measure the differences!
🤓📒🖊
And a listening comparison.
I like your videos as well as Paul's. As long as we're primarily focused on DIY, what about just running cable straight from the crossover to the amp? And... When terminating at 5 way binding posts, wouldn't bare wire be the most positive connection with the least signal loss?
If the cables are hard wired in then you are stuck with what you have and can't as easily change it. Also, bare wire oxidizes rather quickly and then that will really set you back.
Very informative! Did he ask you to explain these or was this a challenge of a sort? Either way I like seeing the collaboration between two possible competitors.
Hi Danny!!! I always see your videos and the videos from Paul and few days ago i see the video of Paul about the connector he did a mistake calling the fork binding post :-) . But i understand his concept. Just few days ago i soldered directly the internal wiring of my amp to it's binding post, instead of the crimped connector fixed with the two bolts , and wow!!! it sounds amazing!!! i already expect this results because i did many experiments with cables connectors and so on , but i wait to touch my amp inside. Your videos are great, i've your same thinking on my aspect about the audio world. Have a nice day!!!!
What happened to these upcoming listening tests proving the instant, audible improvement in using upgraded cables?
Still coming.
@@dannyrichie9743 7 months later... where's the beef?
@@sonicfuker Still coming.
What about just going direct to the crossover board with your 10' speaker cable from the amp, that way you won't have to worry about using, tube, binding post or any other connectors? If I know I won't use the speakers anywhere else and I am staying within the 10' distance.
Not many cables are suitable for that.
So, cutting to the chase, the ‘tube’ plug is like a Z banana plug and banana only socket?
See the drawings of them: www.gr-research.com/store/p44/Electra_Cable_Tube_Connectors.html
Can I use them with banana plugs if I do not want to re-terminate my cables?
Yes you can. You won’t get the full potential of the tube connector that way. But you will get most of the benefits. This is what I am currently doing and have good results. I feel the most important end is the female end.
@@JR-ho5qm thank you!
JR is correct. They were designed to also accept a standard banana plug. There is a little performance hit there, but they will accept them with no issues.
Danny, what exactly do the steel parts of a spade or banana connection change in the sound of the audio?
The magnetic field.
@@dannyrichie9743 I get it....those cheap parts are magnetic. But how is the sound changed? I'm honestly asking. Does it blur the sound or something more measurable?
@@morrisonAV It smears the sound.
@@morrisonAV When any part in the path can hold a residual charge then it alters the signal and gives a smearing effect to the sound.
I really like the fact That you respond and explain this in Detail !
Without question Danny, the tube connector is superior to any other connection at any price. Just try an Eichmann RCA to prove that the minimalist aproach is a more rewarding upgrade then you could believe possible.
I am sure there is sonic benefit for the tube connectors, but I am still confused about how they work. Are your speaker cables permanently attached to the speakers when you use these. Or is it like bananas or a spades where you can disconnect and connect if needed.
like traditional binding posts.....there is a tube termination on the speaker wire end.
and there is a female rcvr on the speaker end.
the speaker wire gets shove alllll the way thru the male end, then crimped & soldered.
then in the rcvr there is speaker wire..... when you insert the male into the female...
the tip of the male wire it literally butt up against the tip of the female wire.
imagine your two index fingers touching each other tip to tip.
kinda like a chinese finger trap.
hope that helps.
See the diagrams posted here: www.gr-research.com/store/p44/Electra_Cable_Tube_Connectors.html
I love the idea of the tube connectors making a snug fit, end to end wires, and getting all that mass out of the signal path. I am a big fan of solid core silver wire in my speakers, and home made speaker cables, too. Any chance of making the tube connectors in silver as well as the gold?
I (also) love the sound of, the weight and body of silver... (people) others can debate the limits of the(ir) budgets,
HiFi rigs and hearing abilities. I will be enjoying exceptional sound while (others) debate on.
@@questioneverything1123 you don't have to pay a lot of money to get good sound quality but if that's what it takes for you to feel important then by all means I won't stop your half deaf self and in the English words of my Butler Henry "hmmm, good day Sir, and try not to be an ass for the rest of it so that I don't have to prepare an extra stall for you to sleep in tonight with the other horses"
@@SheikhN-bible-syndrome Yep, there's always one!
@@SheikhN-bible-syndrome What drugs are you on man? I don’t pay a lot of money for my cables they are all “home made”, but are also very high quality. Solid core silver is not very expensive. Clearly you have no diy skills so I don’t expect you to understand the cost effectiveness of using quality materials.
@@karlcotleanu486you probably can't even use a circular saw LOL I was addressing your snooty comment about people complaining about money while you listen to your solid silver core pseudo wire that through cognitive dissidents you swear sound better
You'll do all this though and then get some caps on the crossover with tin wire connections. Is there any way around this?
Use higher quality caps.
Will you do the Proac Tablette 10 signatures?
Only if someone sends one in.
I wonder if there are any tools to compare speaker output with different connectors and/or cables. Pro’ly not, right?
The output level doesn't change unless the resistance levels change.
@@dannyrichie9743 A frequency response curve could be informative, as to the magnitude and specificity of audible output. That sort of analysis, however, might not be approachable? Or even desirable, perhaps?
Hard to know, absent data and information, I suppose.
For the last 17 years or about , I when customization and building my own speakers I solder the speaker cable to the input of the crossovers, with the speaker wire is cut to the length of what I will need as a maximum length , that way there is no interruption in the signal path except the outputs of the amps and the crossovers themselves , that is the only way I will do it . And it cuts the cost out of the connectors . Bit thats what I like to do .
Can you build me a crossover
@@danbalkey2580 Are you asking g me ? Mr. Balkey.
@@danbalkey2580 Balked. So , yes I could , would it be for a custom speaker or a speaker for a company of short comings .
That's my plan... Straight cable from the crossover to the rear of the amp, no connectors.. I know my speakers won't move in the near future, so no need to have removable cables.
@@SilmarilS79 eggs zacktly, all the fuss and waste of metals in the path of a musical orgasm.
Thanks for the detailed description of your tube connectors. I wondered why they were special. Now I know!
Man seems like if your getting that far in the weeds trying to improve the signal path why not just solder your speaker cable directly to the crossover network?
Speakers are swapped out around here all the time. If we did that then we'd have a set of speaker cables on every speaker. Sometimes I need liong ones for stereo amps and short ones for mono-blocks. And sometimes we like trying different types of cables. So we need the cables to be separate from each speaker.
Great explanation. Would love to see a close up of the connectors. I'm not confident in my ability to solder, otherwise I'd get myself a set of the tube connectors.
www.gr-research.com/store/p44/Electra_Cable_Tube_Connectors.html