Thank you. I see a metal mounting frame in your future ;-) However, I would also suggest a light outdoor-stable lubricant for the hinges - every little bit of friction reduction reduces the power needed to move things. "Super Lube" plumber's grease is impervious to almost everything and good in temperatures from well below zero to above 400F. Search your nearest home center for "plumber's grease". My qualifications? Shadetree mechanic all my life - my mother told the story that I took apart the engine on the electric train I got when I was age 6 and it still worked after I put it back together. 70 years later, I still look at things that way - I want to know how it's put together and how it works and the only way to learn is to dive in and disassemble something or to build something new. I've rebuilt vehicle engines from flathead V8 to OHV to OHC. I have permanent solar lighting in the lawn equipment shed out back (riding mower, walk behind mower, edger, small tiller, fuel, generator, etc.). Getting AC run out there at electrician prices was a totally unreasonable cost when I only wanted lights 20 minutes or so a day (no, I don't need to meet code with AC outlets every 6 feet, just a little bit of light). The original design has been working fine for 4+ years but the original AGM batteries are showing their age (90F+ temperatures in the summer do tend to age those batteries). The replacement LiFePO4 battery is now in place and should be good for 10+ years based on its cycle life and it only being discharged perhaps 20% twice a week might double that. The solar shed lighting is more reliable than the grid-powered lighting in the house - the shed lights are there EVERY time I turn the timer on (spring wound timer so the lights can never be left on - although the BMS I added would protect the battery). Total cost of solar lighting out there is now about $210 with the new LFP battery (including solar panel, controller, batteries, LED strips, wiring, fuses, timer, etc., etc., etc.).
I addition to some of the other ideas people have, move your Actuator to the centre. Easier to move a load that size from the centre than one of the sides. Will help with weight and distribution and help with the power consumption too.
Yeah, the whole thing being moved from one end could put twisting force on it. I was thinking in the middle to a square tube maybe 1” aluminum running the length of the panels to distribute the strain.
@@lyngleslogic1180I mentioned to Craig that thought in another video (the first one, before the first working model, PEET 1, as others have). But I’m concerned there may be risk of imbalance in the actuator movement and they could fight each other. Maybe if they were both hooked to the same driver panels, and maybe with larger panels. I’m concerned about stuff getting hot from scaling this idea up. They do make much more powerful linear actuators, that could be mounted closer the the balance point, and ones that have a shorter range of movement. So many possibilities, so little time!! Aloha!!
This is a really good find. The actuator mod is simple and probably saves some time, but I've noticed some people using high torque, low wattage spin motors with a belt. It seems, without the proper set up would be flimsy, The actuator cuts alot of the design process out of it. I am still debating which to use. Once you buy all the mounting plates sprockets, tension bands, high torque low wattage (HTLW) motors come out to only a few dollars less than some of the inexpensive actuators that I have seen in these applications. The HTLW might be "more fun" to build out. My experience was with much stronger, more expensive actuators in the past. They can cover alot of sins, imbalance, overweight, etc...
@Brad Cagle, I really love your simple operational innovation. You know what, Cagle? GENIUS INVENTIONS are nothing but, SIMPLE! And yours for sure is, Simple.
Yes, you did change the angle of the equilibrium panels. I think that may be why they aren’t working as smoothly. Try the original ( what, it was like 45 degrees?) angle and see if it changes. Being more vertical, they just are not pointed skyward sufficiently, in my mind.
Or concrete the legs. Use 1 3/8 top rail (galvanized pipe for chain link fence). If you do that you can use all metal connectors and ground the panel frames at the same time.
Another comment said turn the panels 90 degrees, which increases the support structure length, but makes them n much sturdier. And should be much better in wind, though with a longer and more space demanding form. So trade offs there. I mentioned to Craig elsewhere I have cooked up a design with ground anchors under the sawhorses with cables coming up to the top cross rail of the sawhorse. And adjustable leg sawhorses so you can do north/south. In which case 4 ground anchors in a square pattern with 4 cables so it can teeter for the leg adjustments. Of course the seasonal adjustment would be manual, but only needed once a month or so. I just realized you would need the cables to be adjustable and simply have two anchors directly below the top rail of the sawhorse. $58 each for 1,350 lb capacity steel adjustable leg sawhorses on Amazon, powder coated top and galvanized legs. Shoot, that would even last here in Hawaii, where everything begins dissolving the second you take it outside.
Wonderful. Excellent prototype. The tilt on the sawhorse axis might change the stresses on those hinges. Thank you for including the time lapse. It gives an visual reference to understand the maximum tilts east to west.
Very similar to the same design I have in mind except that I intend to build a frame to mount the panels onto, include diodes and add a manual 2nd axis tilt adjustment as the sun shifts position throughout the year.
clue -- use a tube with a rod insert to hinged the panels to the wood -- or just use a rod - attached to the wood while circular hinges are attached to the panels thus not creating any friction whatsoever .... just a thought .... 2:44 -- BTW -- just use a draped type of covering (tied to the center of the wood ) -- 4:26 -- just a suggestion -- elongate the smaller panel thus giving equal surface use on both small panels -- (food for thought) ... nice project -- I'm going to try this -- Thanks ... update -- 3 30 2024 why not use two actuator -- one for tilting to the other side and the other to tilt back to position 1 ... both are powered by their own solar panel -- reduce the friction between using both panels ... still like your idea .. it's the best of all trackers I have seen ...
Attach the small panels in an inverted V on one side of the panels. This moves their mass closer to the puvot point, which will reduce the effort of the linear actuator.
Friction is a result of the sun heating up the frame and it expanding and shrinking. The reason it works better when the screws are loose is the space between the hinges and the screws and the wood all change as the unit cycles through the day. Heated up, expanding and then as the panel moves, the weight shifts and then you develop friction as a result. Try to balance the panel unit. It should float and be weightless in either postion. If you life one side to a 10 o clock position, and let go, it should not swing one way or another. Also do not allow the sun to directly shine on the parts. Maybe another piece of wood that is more stable could help. Did you align the hinges on the wood support before you installed the panels? During installation of the panels, did you tweek or bend the frame because of its weight and size? Blocking the sun off of certain parts may help slightly, but remember as the heat or warmth rises, so will the dimensions of the wood change!? You may want to try ball bearing hinges. I metal support attached to the panels and hinges may work better, than the wood piece you use now.
That could play a role. However the friction was there before the sun was in play, I assembled in the evening, and the individual sections were inside my enclosed patio before hand. It's mostly due to 2x6 not being all that flat. You can feel areas where this cause binding from the bow. A possible solution would be to use extruded aluminum beams instead of the 2x6. Really it works perfectly fine with the screws a little loose. It has not even backed any out.
Great video! BTW, How did you manage to mount those two large panels to the saw horse by yourself? Can you also give the details about the diode on the Limit switch? How many switches does it have and is it easy to get access to? Thanks!
I don't run any automated panel tracking, but I do use a Victron mppt that logs all the power generated on graphs with easy recall of said graphs. So I can manually move panels from a slight South default facing where they'd just stay still in that facing all day, and then manually move them to the East for morning or West for evening and see the difference. Because of the mppt's logged graphs, I can see the instantaneous difference between leaving them pointed slightly South or pointing them East or West for the morning/evening. It's a pretty significant difference in power generation, but that difference is largely realized in the mornings and evenings. Mid day the panels would more or less be in the same facing whether you were doing automated/manual tracking or just leaving them to sit still. All that said, I can pretty much guarantee you that you're looking at 25 to 30% more power generated through the day with tracking and I would put serious doubt on any claims above 35%.
Hadn’t seen the update, this is great! Did you make the “driver panels” more vertical? It looks like it. And I still say one comment on the single PEET video was right, you could put those driver panels on the ground at an angle facing east/west and it would work. I am going to try it and see if I can get that to work as well. It would let you (or make it easier to) use larger driver panels for larger arrays. I mentioned to Craig a setup I have in mind, two sawhorses with three 410 watt Hyundai panels on adjustable leg store bought sawhorses. I think I will be able to incorporate south/north periodic manual adjustments with adjustable legs.
It will not work that great with the small panels fixed east/west on the ground. You'll only get 3 positions of the main panel 1) full east, 2) flat, and 3) full west.
Tried to find info on PEET tracker and couldn't find anything. How about a video on building it along with a parts list. I am very interested ing building this system. Thanks.
This is still looking great!!! I'm wondering if it would almost be better to have panels facing East to West instead of the usual South facing??? Since the panels will tilt quite a bit, they would follow the sun East to West no matter where the sun is. Thnk that would give a better angle throughout the year? Especially where I live in upstate NY.
Thanks. BTW they are actually facing east/west! I think I will end up tilting the whole thing towards the south a bit because fall through winter the sun will be way south. It will still track east/west when I tilt it.
I like it, but I need to roof mount if possible to not clutter up the yard too much(we have a veggie garden/watering system that's already taking up 3/4 of my backyard). My big concern with roof mounting is wind. You have any solutions to deal with wind?
I was actually intending to raise this one up a few feet, and build a garden under it. Have you looked I to agrivoltaics? If you get it the right height you'll still get plenty sun on your crops. But it'll stay cooler, require less water. Etc.
Very simple and cost effective. Have you thought of adding another actuator for the same axis on the other end to stabilize the east to westmovement? Any indicative cost inputs?
Thanks. I think there wouldn't be enough power to run two actuators. Also might be synchronization problems if one actuators is getting more power, or binding, etc.
Lovely! Could you make a video about how to build the wood "table" that solar panels are at? Or do you know what's it called so i can search for it on youtube? Something similar? So we could build that one as well? Im not a handyman, but would love to build something like this from scratch so i could attach it with the solar panel! Love it!
the legs are 4foot 2x4's the black brackets attaching the legs are sawhorse clamps/brackets, the board across the top is a 2x6. Three stainless steel door hinges, and the three boards attached to the solar panels are just 2foot 2x4's
@@BradCagle Thank you for a quickly respond! Im going to upgrade the cabin and would love to be there at the summer time without any extra cost for beeing there in the summer so upgrading to several solar panels i had in mind for few weeks now and im getting closer and closer for starting with it! Thanks for the help to getting closer. Now im just days or few weeks to actually buy the items i need and actually travel to the cabin and begin with the project. So many things that had made it easier for example virtually batteries. I was thinking about having severals batteries in the storage outside to begin with, found out it does exist virtually batteries that make it much easier when it's winter here in norway i could also take it "out" overproduced kwh from the virtually battery when i need it and this with your previous video has helped me alot about thinking the next step with efficiency for the solar panels i'm looking for. Was thinking about buying solar tracker, but i don't know how serious the companies are and it's expensive. So building something that's cheaper and "safer" it's just gold. It's not the same with the im could be buying from, but as long the effciency are going up for pretty cheap im happy with that! Thanks for the inspiration and helpful guides!
@@BradCagle I have already on-grid cabin now (inheritance), but since everything is so expensive with the electricty and other costs now in norway i have wanted to change it to become more towards off-grid cabin. Hopefully will it be free cabin for electricty whole year in the next year, but if i need electricty in the winter time for example i could be on-grid if necessary. Awesome! Hope you will make it! :)
@@BradCagle Have bought the legs now so have set up the underneath (couldn't wait for it any longer - to see if it's actually working) last question what about the wiring? Could you send me a link for it? Thanks in advance! :)
Simple, the opposing polarity cancels out. For example 12 + -12 = 0v. Now where does that power go? It's dissipated in the wire, and the panels. Thanks
Would it be simpler to just have a controller for the actuator that uses some sort of timer to move it? I know this isn't what you are designing but it would seem to be relatively easy and not as potentially stressful on the motor.
Possibly. You would need a controller, and possibly a dedicated battery, and solar panel for the tracking system. I might convert to something like this, just to experience it. Thanks
Why don’t you place the two motor solar panels fixed on the ground opposite set back to back. I do like your idea. Also I would cut 6” on the south side of the saw horse.
I see that suggested a lot. However it will not work so great. The two panels are seeking equilibrium. The system works because as the sun move it eventually illuminates one panel more than the other, as the unit starts to tilt it's actually trying to reposition the two (motor panels) so they are back to equal illumination (equilibrium). If the panels are on the ground you'll make the actuator run all the way to the full east stop in the morning, then all the way to west stop in the afternoon. You would have no tracking steps in between. Thanks
I've seen this concept on mini-units (via RUclips)...so nothing new here beyond scale up. My main concern is eventual burn-out of the actuator motor. At one point each day (sun zenith) the actuator motor will encounter maximum electrical input (thus heating) from both driving panels and halt. How long can it survive that contest before burn-out? I built my own dual axis tracker some years ago with two very large/heavy panels and electronic components from Amazon. It worked, but was expensive. If such systems provide 20% higher efficiency, one can purchase that many more solar panels to achieve the same mark at much less expense and effort. I found that laying panels flat on the ground facing straight up worked well. Of course, I live in Arizona and have both excellent sunlight and the acreage to set it up that way. But. My biggest challenge now, having moved south to Sierra Vista, Arizona, is WIND! We have clocked winds at up to 60~70mph - which knocked down my panels so many times I gave up on angles, trackers, etc and now have them simply laying flat facing up. This works for ME and my system - keeps my batteries up no problem. Each installation is built to operate in each individual's unique environment - one size does not fit all. I see such projects doing good where space is at a premium. We do have home owners here who have built large ground-level arrays on very sturdy (stationary) metal framework aimed Due South with a 37° inclination running their entire properties (upwards of 48-~50 panels) = expensive but viable. John
All good points John. Yes the motor life, I've wondered about it myself. There is a point where the motor is stalled as the voltage is rising. It eventually rises to the point of moving, and then it's back in the equilibrium, and idling. I have monitored the current, and voltage rise during this period, the motor was warmer than ambient, but not by much. Motors running in continuous duty are much warmer. I think the motor will last as long as the armature windings aren't total garbage quality. It has made it through one season, we'll see if it makes it through another. I have it fixed in flat right now because my neighbors trees are blocking the low winter sun. As for wind, yes I did have a big wind storm blow through, and topple it. LOL
@@BradCagle The only and big problem I see (from a robotics motor standpoint and experience) is that the motor wants 12VDC to be efficient and not over-heat the windings and/or armature. We used PWM motor controllers to change speed as opposed to lowering the voltage to lower the speed, this worked well. In this case I believe the actuator motor is being stressed as the voltage from the solar panels climbs to approach 12 volts. The lower the voltage the higher the amperage as the motor attempts to run. What is probably "saving the day" and the windings is the output limits of the panels themselves. A system designed to move the array in steps only when the motor has 12VDC available would become my design goal, not sure right now what that is!
@@BradCagle When one panel is in shade there is no voltage to speak of. However the other panel is providing actual current through the motor, but not enough to run the motor. So it is heating up. Once it reaches the tipping point the motor will run until the 2 panels cancel each outher out. Then current drops to zero for a few minutes. Two light sensors hooked to two relays and a battery could run several banks of panels.
amzn.to/3ycpUZj Also I did a slight modification, not required but makes it work better. There are diodes on the back of the limit switches, I swapped those out for Schottky 1N5819 diodes. They have lower voltage drop, and allow the actuator to get out of the limits sooner.
Have you experienced any issue with feeding the solar panels in reverse polarity? I have no idea if feeding power in reverse will affect a solar panel, it would seem no different to hooking one up to a battery backwards. Has it hurt the panels as far as you can tell, or is this system still working fine after a year of use?
Ok so I built mine but it doesn’t work like yours and I’m not sure why. If I operate each panel independently it works but when I wire them up as instructed nothing happens. I wired one panel positive to positive and negative to negative and the other panel positive to negative and negative to positive but at no time will they move like that. Only when the are wired one at a time to the actuator. What am I doing wrong?
It might be a bit better in the middle, I would have to add another set of legs, or some bracket. I'll be playing around with this again in the coming months.
Yes good idea, we were discussing this on diysolarforum.com . The little panels on the ends act as a counterweight, but it's probably not enough now with two main panels. I'm thinking of adding a long aluminum square tube I have to the middle with a weight on the end.
@@BradCagle 2 bucket 🪣 of water 💦 , one at each end. Transfer the water 💦 with a pump ⚙️ and hoses. Add a spring or 2 springs to maintain the system static.
Mr. Cagle, move the actuator to the middle now that you doubled the panels. It will move easier, you will have to add a third leg. Thanks, I will be building it soon, excellent job sir.
Thought of that, but not necessary. I figured out how to make the actuator work much better when in the limits. The limits switches in the actuator have a diode across the back of each. Replace them with Schottky diodes, and that reduces the voltage drop. Bam works fantastic now. I need to do an update video showing the better movement.
@@BradCagle Outstanding, I didn’t think of that but it makes perfect sense. BTW, greetings from Texas, with the blackouts and the 100 degrees plus temperatures here, no one wants to go outside and continuously move solar panels. Good job sir. Have a good week. 👍🏽
I just used a long self tapping screw. Two on each side on the short 2x4's. Drill a hole in the wood first otherwise the screw will bind up trying to get through the frame of the panel.
Thank you for showing this video. May I ask what make and model of your small panels? I am trying to duplicate your setup but not able to use my small 12v panels to power up the actuator. Thank you in advance! Cheer :)
The small panels are 20w panels I salvaged from old solar roof vents. I'm not sure the make. I did a mod to the actuator, there are diodes on the back of the limit switches. Replace them with schottky diodes and it will work better. Less power required
Yes. Blocking diodes will not help anyway because the panels are connected to one other in reverse polarity. In fact diodes will hurt performance because of the voltage drop.
I have a 12V, 50W panel and a 200W panel, and neither one will drive an actuator by themselves. The actuator is 12V x 3A = 36W. The charge controller will run the actuator off the car battery. But the actuator goes full travel and does NOT follow the sun. How are you following the sun?
Great design. I am going to try this myself but a little more beefy. I have very big 455 watt panels I want to mount 2 so I decided to uses 4x4 legs and the cross beam 4 x 6. Then mount some wood to hinges then solar rails to the wood. My question is about the actuator polarity going back and forth fighting between the small panels. I would think would eventially burn up the actuator motor?
![GEEK TIMË [OFFICIAL AUDIO]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ry-6RvkH880/mqdefault.jpg)
Original PEET with more explanation ruclips.net/video/e5Y2ZYkQBAQ/видео.html
Thank you.
I see a metal mounting frame in your future ;-) However, I would also suggest a light outdoor-stable lubricant for the hinges - every little bit of friction reduction reduces the power needed to move things. "Super Lube" plumber's grease is impervious to almost everything and good in temperatures from well below zero to above 400F. Search your nearest home center for "plumber's grease".
My qualifications? Shadetree mechanic all my life - my mother told the story that I took apart the engine on the electric train I got when I was age 6 and it still worked after I put it back together. 70 years later, I still look at things that way - I want to know how it's put together and how it works and the only way to learn is to dive in and disassemble something or to build something new. I've rebuilt vehicle engines from flathead V8 to OHV to OHC.
I have permanent solar lighting in the lawn equipment shed out back (riding mower, walk behind mower, edger, small tiller, fuel, generator, etc.). Getting AC run out there at electrician prices was a totally unreasonable cost when I only wanted lights 20 minutes or so a day (no, I don't need to meet code with AC outlets every 6 feet, just a little bit of light). The original design has been working fine for 4+ years but the original AGM batteries are showing their age (90F+ temperatures in the summer do tend to age those batteries). The replacement LiFePO4 battery is now in place and should be good for 10+ years based on its cycle life and it only being discharged perhaps 20% twice a week might double that. The solar shed lighting is more reliable than the grid-powered lighting in the house - the shed lights are there EVERY time I turn the timer on (spring wound timer so the lights can never be left on - although the BMS I added would protect the battery). Total cost of solar lighting out there is now about $210 with the new LFP battery (including solar panel, controller, batteries, LED strips, wiring, fuses, timer, etc., etc., etc.).
I addition to some of the other ideas people have, move your Actuator to the centre. Easier to move a load that size from the centre than one of the sides. Will help with weight and distribution and help with the power consumption too.
I'll try it soon, thanks.
Maybe add a second actuator?
Yeah, the whole thing being moved from one end could put twisting force on it. I was thinking in the middle to a square tube maybe 1” aluminum running the length of the panels to distribute the strain.
@@lyngleslogic1180I mentioned to Craig that thought in another video (the first one, before the first working model, PEET 1, as others have). But I’m concerned there may be risk of imbalance in the actuator movement and they could fight each other. Maybe if they were both hooked to the same driver panels, and maybe with larger panels. I’m concerned about stuff getting hot from scaling this idea up. They do make much more powerful linear actuators, that could be mounted closer the the balance point, and ones that have a shorter range of movement. So many possibilities, so little time!! Aloha!!
This is a really good find. The actuator mod is simple and probably saves some time, but I've noticed some people using high torque, low wattage spin motors with a belt. It seems, without the proper set up would be flimsy, The actuator cuts alot of the design process out of it. I am still debating which to use. Once you buy all the mounting plates sprockets, tension bands, high torque low wattage (HTLW) motors come out to only a few dollars less than some of the inexpensive actuators that I have seen in these applications. The HTLW might be "more fun" to build out. My experience was with much stronger, more expensive actuators in the past. They can cover alot of sins, imbalance, overweight, etc...
@Brad Cagle, I really love your simple operational innovation. You know what, Cagle? GENIUS INVENTIONS are nothing but, SIMPLE! And yours for sure is, Simple.
Yes, you did change the angle of the equilibrium panels. I think that may be why they aren’t working as smoothly. Try the original ( what, it was like 45 degrees?) angle and see if it changes. Being more vertical, they just are not pointed skyward sufficiently, in my mind.
Brilliant design, Very elementary and I can find no flaws, other than if it get really windy, it may blow them off course. 10 out of 10!
Yes, wind it the only problem, I've had it topple once :) Thanks!
Might need to put a larger footprint on each leg of the sawhorse to keep it from tipping over in wind. JAT :))
Or concrete the legs. Use 1 3/8 top rail (galvanized pipe for chain link fence). If you do that you can use all metal connectors and ground the panel frames at the same time.
Another comment said turn the panels 90 degrees, which increases the support structure length, but makes them n much sturdier. And should be much better in wind, though with a longer and more space demanding form. So trade offs there. I mentioned to Craig elsewhere I have cooked up a design with ground anchors under the sawhorses with cables coming up to the top cross rail of the sawhorse. And adjustable leg sawhorses so you can do north/south. In which case 4 ground anchors in a square pattern with 4 cables so it can teeter for the leg adjustments. Of course the seasonal adjustment would be manual, but only needed once a month or so. I just realized you would need the cables to be adjustable and simply have two anchors directly below the top rail of the sawhorse. $58 each for 1,350 lb capacity steel adjustable leg sawhorses on Amazon, powder coated top and galvanized legs. Shoot, that would even last here in Hawaii, where everything begins dissolving the second you take it outside.
@Brad Cagle, I love this simple operational invention. You what Cagle? Genius Inventions are SIMPLE! Yours IS.
Thank you!
Wonderful. Excellent prototype. The tilt on the sawhorse axis might change the stresses on those hinges. Thank you for including the time lapse. It gives an visual reference to understand the maximum tilts east to west.
Glad you enjoyed it :)
Now you have two panels, have you compared the watt hours generated with one tracking and the other stationary?
Very similar to the same design I have in mind except that I intend to build a frame to mount the panels onto, include diodes and add a manual 2nd axis tilt adjustment as the sun shifts position throughout the year.
Yes. I want to add the 2nd manual axis too :) What diodes are you thinking of adding?
@@BradCagle I think he is putting a diode in each positive lead so the panels won't be fighting each other.
clue -- use a tube with a rod insert to hinged the panels to the wood -- or just use a rod - attached to the wood while circular hinges are attached to the panels thus not creating any friction whatsoever .... just a thought ....
2:44 -- BTW -- just use a draped type of covering (tied to the center of the wood ) --
4:26 -- just a suggestion -- elongate the smaller panel thus giving equal surface use on both small panels -- (food for thought) ...
nice project -- I'm going to try this -- Thanks ...
update -- 3 30 2024
why not use two actuator -- one for tilting to the other side and the other to tilt back to position 1 ...
both are powered by their own solar panel -- reduce the friction between using both panels ...
still like your idea .. it's the best of all trackers I have seen ...
Can you update the affiliate link to include the small solar panel?
Great video Brad
Brad have you been able to find out anything about some cells either new or used
Attach the small panels in an inverted V on one side of the panels. This moves their mass closer to the puvot point, which will reduce the effort of the linear actuator.
User two small relays to control a larger power source from the larger panels and then could use a larger actuator to move many panels
It's been a couple of years. Is it still working and what would you change?
Thanks in advance.
Jim
Wow! What a smart idea. It's brilliant
Thanks man!
You probably get the concept, but chec the first video it gives more details ruclips.net/video/e5Y2ZYkQBAQ/видео.html
Friction is a result of the sun heating up the frame and it expanding and shrinking. The reason it works better when the screws are loose is the space between the hinges and the screws and the wood all change as the unit cycles through the day. Heated up, expanding and then as the panel moves, the weight shifts and then you develop friction as a result. Try to balance the panel unit. It should float and be weightless in either postion. If you life one side to a 10 o clock position, and let go, it should not swing one way or another. Also do not allow the sun to directly shine on the parts. Maybe another piece of wood that is more stable could help. Did you align the hinges on the wood support before you installed the panels? During installation of the panels, did you tweek or bend the frame because of its weight and size? Blocking the sun off of certain parts may help slightly, but remember as the heat or warmth rises, so will the dimensions of the wood change!? You may want to try ball bearing hinges. I metal support attached to the panels and hinges may work better, than the wood piece you use now.
That could play a role. However the friction was there before the sun was in play, I assembled in the evening, and the individual sections were inside my enclosed patio before hand. It's mostly due to 2x6 not being all that flat. You can feel areas where this cause binding from the bow. A possible solution would be to use extruded aluminum beams instead of the 2x6. Really it works perfectly fine with the screws a little loose. It has not even backed any out.
Nce video, great idea…is there, at a particular moment, no short cicuit as both panels are giving 12 v ? Is this healthy?
Love this.
Thanks!
I think with some good bearings 1 actuator would move 4 or 5 panels. But then there's the wind
True
Great video! BTW, How did you manage to mount those two large panels to the saw horse by yourself?
Can you also give the details about the diode on the Limit switch? How many switches does it have and is it easy to get access to? Thanks!
I also saw a video of someone accessing the limiter switches, they are very easy to get to, the diodes as well.
How much power are you making compared to just having it flat on the ground?
Very creative. Have you done any output tests with the panels fixed, and the panels tracking?
I don't run any automated panel tracking, but I do use a Victron mppt that logs all the power generated on graphs with easy recall of said graphs. So I can manually move panels from a slight South default facing where they'd just stay still in that facing all day, and then manually move them to the East for morning or West for evening and see the difference. Because of the mppt's logged graphs, I can see the instantaneous difference between leaving them pointed slightly South or pointing them East or West for the morning/evening. It's a pretty significant difference in power generation, but that difference is largely realized in the mornings and evenings. Mid day the panels would more or less be in the same facing whether you were doing automated/manual tracking or just leaving them to sit still.
All that said, I can pretty much guarantee you that you're looking at 25 to 30% more power generated through the day with tracking and I would put serious doubt on any claims above 35%.
I'm likin' this. 👍
Hadn’t seen the update, this is great! Did you make the “driver panels” more vertical? It looks like it. And I still say one comment on the single PEET video was right, you could put those driver panels on the ground at an angle facing east/west and it would work. I am going to try it and see if I can get that to work as well. It would let you (or make it easier to) use larger driver panels for larger arrays. I mentioned to Craig a setup I have in mind, two sawhorses with three 410 watt Hyundai panels on adjustable leg store bought sawhorses. I think I will be able to incorporate south/north periodic manual adjustments with adjustable legs.
It will not work that great with the small panels fixed east/west on the ground. You'll only get 3 positions of the main panel 1) full east, 2) flat, and 3) full west.
@@BradCagle you tried it with the small panels on the ground at that same angle as you mounted them on the first setup?
@@5400bowen The small panels must be attached to the moving axis, or else equilibrium will never be met.
@@BradCagle that just seems so weird! When I’m setting up mine, I’ll still have to test that myself. Thanx!
have you worked with the angles of the actuator panels? Looks like something in the order of 30 degrees, would 40 or 50 make the moves smoother?
Tried to find info on PEET tracker and couldn't find anything. How about a video on building it along with a parts list. I am very interested ing building this system. Thanks.
Watch the first video and you should get all the info you need ruclips.net/video/e5Y2ZYkQBAQ/видео.html
This is still looking great!!! I'm wondering if it would almost be better to have panels facing East to West instead of the usual South facing??? Since the panels will tilt quite a bit, they would follow the sun East to West no matter where the sun is. Thnk that would give a better angle throughout the year? Especially where I live in upstate NY.
Thanks. BTW they are actually facing east/west! I think I will end up tilting the whole thing towards the south a bit because fall through winter the sun will be way south. It will still track east/west when I tilt it.
@@BradCagle Great minds think alike LOL
I like it, but I need to roof mount if possible to not clutter up the yard too much(we have a veggie garden/watering system that's already taking up 3/4 of my backyard). My big concern with roof mounting is wind. You have any solutions to deal with wind?
I was actually intending to raise this one up a few feet, and build a garden under it. Have you looked I to agrivoltaics? If you get it the right height you'll still get plenty sun on your crops. But it'll stay cooler, require less water. Etc.
Very simple and cost effective. Have you thought of adding another actuator for the same axis on the other end to stabilize the east to westmovement? Any indicative cost inputs?
Thanks. I think there wouldn't be enough power to run two actuators. Also might be synchronization problems if one actuators is getting more power, or binding, etc.
Lovely! Could you make a video about how to build the wood "table" that solar panels are at? Or do you know what's it called so i can search for it on youtube? Something similar?
So we could build that one as well? Im not a handyman, but would love to build something like this from scratch so i could attach it with the solar panel!
Love it!
the legs are 4foot 2x4's the black brackets attaching the legs are sawhorse clamps/brackets, the board across the top is a 2x6. Three stainless steel door hinges, and the three boards attached to the solar panels are just 2foot 2x4's
@@BradCagle Thank you for a quickly respond! Im going to upgrade the cabin and would love to be there at the summer time without any extra cost for beeing there in the summer so upgrading to several solar panels i had in mind for few weeks now and im getting closer and closer for starting with it!
Thanks for the help to getting closer. Now im just days or few weeks to actually buy the items i need and actually travel to the cabin and begin with the project. So many things that had made it easier for example virtually batteries. I was thinking about having severals batteries in the storage outside to begin with, found out it does exist virtually batteries that make it much easier when it's winter here in norway i could also take it "out" overproduced kwh from the virtually battery when i need it and this with your previous video has helped me alot about thinking the next step with efficiency for the solar panels i'm looking for. Was thinking about buying solar tracker, but i don't know how serious the companies are and it's expensive. So building something that's cheaper and "safer" it's just gold. It's not the same with the im could be buying from, but as long the effciency are going up for pretty cheap im happy with that!
Thanks for the inspiration and helpful guides!
@@MrLasox Man, that's my dream to have an off-grid cabin. I have collected a lot of off-grid parts, I just need the cabin part :)
@@BradCagle I have already on-grid cabin now (inheritance), but since everything is so expensive with the electricty and other costs now in norway i have wanted to change it to become more towards off-grid cabin. Hopefully will it be free cabin for electricty whole year in the next year, but if i need electricty in the winter time for example i could be on-grid if necessary.
Awesome! Hope you will make it! :)
@@BradCagle Have bought the legs now so have set up the underneath (couldn't wait for it any longer - to see if it's actually working) last question what about the wiring?
Could you send me a link for it?
Thanks in advance! :)
Any updates, improvements?
How much more wattage are you getting out of those panels vs leaving them flat?
I haven't done an official test yet but I expect about 30-35% more production.
Could you put 2 actuators on it to help against the weight?
I know this is old, but midday how does the actuator not burn out when both panels are feeding power with opposite polarity?
Simple, the opposing polarity cancels out. For example 12 + -12 = 0v. Now where does that power go? It's dissipated in the wire, and the panels. Thanks
@@BradCagle Yeah, after I watched your video YT suggested a bunch of others...I should have realized that! Cool idea and very simple!
Would it be simpler to just have a controller for the actuator that uses some sort of timer to move it? I know this isn't what you are designing but it would seem to be relatively easy and not as potentially stressful on the motor.
Possibly. You would need a controller, and possibly a dedicated battery, and solar panel for the tracking system. I might convert to something like this, just to experience it. Thanks
Question: During the time the voltage supplied to the motor is undervoltage, does that cause damage to the motor?
I wondered that myself, but it never burned out, and never got hot.
Why don’t you place the two motor solar panels fixed on the ground opposite set back to back. I do like your idea. Also I would cut 6” on the south side of the saw horse.
I see that suggested a lot. However it will not work so great. The two panels are seeking equilibrium. The system works because as the sun move it eventually illuminates one panel more than the other, as the unit starts to tilt it's actually trying to reposition the two (motor panels) so they are back to equal illumination (equilibrium). If the panels are on the ground you'll make the actuator run all the way to the full east stop in the morning, then all the way to west stop in the afternoon. You would have no tracking steps in between. Thanks
Looks good
I've seen this concept on mini-units (via RUclips)...so nothing new here beyond scale up. My main concern is eventual burn-out of the actuator motor. At one point each day (sun zenith) the actuator motor will encounter maximum electrical input (thus heating) from both driving panels and halt. How long can it survive that contest before burn-out? I built my own dual axis tracker some years ago with two very large/heavy panels and electronic components from Amazon. It worked, but was expensive. If such systems provide 20% higher efficiency, one can purchase that many more solar panels to achieve the same mark at much less expense and effort. I found that laying panels flat on the ground facing straight up worked well. Of course, I live in Arizona and have both excellent sunlight and the acreage to set it up that way. But. My biggest challenge now, having moved south to Sierra Vista, Arizona, is WIND! We have clocked winds at up to 60~70mph - which knocked down my panels so many times I gave up on angles, trackers, etc and now have them simply laying flat facing up. This works for ME and my system - keeps my batteries up no problem. Each installation is built to operate in each individual's unique environment - one size does not fit all. I see such projects doing good where space is at a premium. We do have home owners here who have built large ground-level arrays on very sturdy (stationary) metal framework aimed Due South with a 37° inclination running their entire properties (upwards of 48-~50 panels) = expensive but viable. John
All good points John. Yes the motor life, I've wondered about it myself. There is a point where the motor is stalled as the voltage is rising. It eventually rises to the point of moving, and then it's back in the equilibrium, and idling. I have monitored the current, and voltage rise during this period, the motor was warmer than ambient, but not by much. Motors running in continuous duty are much warmer. I think the motor will last as long as the armature windings aren't total garbage quality. It has made it through one season, we'll see if it makes it through another. I have it fixed in flat right now because my neighbors trees are blocking the low winter sun. As for wind, yes I did have a big wind storm blow through, and topple it. LOL
@@BradCagle The only and big problem I see (from a robotics motor standpoint and experience) is that the motor wants 12VDC to be efficient and not over-heat the windings and/or armature. We used PWM motor controllers to change speed as opposed to lowering the voltage to lower the speed, this worked well.
In this case I believe the actuator motor is being stressed as the voltage from the solar panels climbs to approach 12 volts. The lower the voltage the higher the amperage as the motor attempts to run. What is probably "saving the day" and the windings is the output limits of the panels themselves.
A system designed to move the array in steps only when the motor has 12VDC available would become my design goal, not sure right now what that is!
@@BradCagle When one panel is in shade there is no voltage to speak of. However the other panel is providing actual current through the motor, but not enough to run the motor. So it is heating up. Once it reaches the tipping point the motor will run until the 2 panels cancel each outher out. Then current drops to zero for a few minutes. Two light sensors hooked to two relays and a battery could run several banks of panels.
Can you specify the name brand, size and electrical info for the actuator?
amzn.to/3ycpUZj
Also I did a slight modification, not required but makes it work better. There are diodes on the back of the limit switches, I swapped those out for Schottky 1N5819 diodes. They have lower voltage drop, and allow the actuator to get out of the limits sooner.
Have you experienced any issue with feeding the solar panels in reverse polarity? I have no idea if feeding power in reverse will affect a solar panel, it would seem no different to hooking one up to a battery backwards. Has it hurt the panels as far as you can tell, or is this system still working fine after a year of use?
It has not been a problem. Solar cells are basically diodes.
@@BradCagle Thanks
Try pivoting along the length instead of the width. This reduces the weight for the actuator.
Ok so I built mine but it doesn’t work like yours and I’m not sure why. If I operate each panel independently it works but when I wire them up as instructed nothing happens. I wired one panel positive to positive and negative to negative and the other panel positive to negative and negative to positive but at no time will they move like that. Only when the are wired one at a time to the actuator. What am I doing wrong?
Take the pin out of your actuator arm, and see if it moves alone (i.e. not attached to the tracker, so not trying to push the load)
@@BradCagle will try and report back! Thanks!
@@BradCagle maybe it’s binding up somehow?
@@lyngleslogic1180 That's usually the issue
Great idea
Thanks!
Why don't you move the actuator to the center of the two panel. It seems that it would put less strain on the panels.
It might be a bit better in the middle, I would have to add another set of legs, or some bracket. I'll be playing around with this again in the coming months.
Try putting a counterweight on the system to take some of the load on the actuator and reduces the power needed by the small panels. nice work though.
Yes good idea, we were discussing this on diysolarforum.com . The little panels on the ends act as a counterweight, but it's probably not enough now with two main panels. I'm thinking of adding a long aluminum square tube I have to the middle with a weight on the end.
@@BradCagle
2 bucket 🪣 of water 💦 , one at each end. Transfer the water 💦 with a pump ⚙️ and hoses. Add a spring or 2 springs to maintain the system static.
@@ajarivas72 Sounds Interesting. However seems more complicated, and less reliable than what I have.
@@BradCagle
Much more less reliable. I agree.
Yours is an elegant design.
Any ideas on how to make it storm-proof for permanent placement somewhere? So that it can handle gusts of wind...
I don't have any ideas for that scenario yet.
@@BradCagle i guess mounting a shock absorber (from a car or motorcycle for instance, but without the spring) would do the trick 🤔
you could probably just attach the saw horses to concrete footers or to a concrete slab with decking hardware
Mr. Cagle, move the actuator to the middle now that you doubled the panels. It will move easier, you will have to add a third leg. Thanks, I will be building it soon, excellent job sir.
Thought of that, but not necessary. I figured out how to make the actuator work much better when in the limits. The limits switches in the actuator have a diode across the back of each. Replace them with Schottky diodes, and that reduces the voltage drop. Bam works fantastic now. I need to do an update video showing the better movement.
@@BradCagle Outstanding, I didn’t think of that but it makes perfect sense. BTW, greetings from Texas, with the blackouts and the 100 degrees plus temperatures here, no one wants to go outside and continuously move solar panels. Good job sir. Have a good week. 👍🏽
@@dmproduction100 I'm a fellow Texan, so I know exactly what you mean. I'm in Fort Worth!
Brad how did you attach the short 2x4’s to the panels? What type of screws?
I just used a long self tapping screw. Two on each side on the short 2x4's. Drill a hole in the wood first otherwise the screw will bind up trying to get through the frame of the panel.
Thank you for showing this video. May I ask what make and model of your small panels? I am trying to duplicate your setup but not able to use my small 12v panels to power up the actuator. Thank you in advance! Cheer :)
The small panels are 20w panels I salvaged from old solar roof vents. I'm not sure the make. I did a mod to the actuator, there are diodes on the back of the limit switches. Replace them with schottky diodes and it will work better. Less power required
@@BradCagle Thank you for your reply. :)
Is it okay not to use blocking diode for the two small panel?
Yes. Blocking diodes will not help anyway because the panels are connected to one other in reverse polarity. In fact diodes will hurt performance because of the voltage drop.
I have a 12V, 50W panel and a 200W panel, and neither one will drive an actuator by themselves.
The actuator is 12V x 3A = 36W.
The charge controller will run the actuator off the car battery.
But the actuator goes full travel and does NOT follow the sun.
How are you following the sun?
Maybe this will help ruclips.net/video/ADIUlVR0bh4/видео.html
Does the actuator have limit switches? what stops it from continuously running when fed power from both solar panels at once?
Yes, the actuator has built in limit switches.
Great video!
Thanks!
Now to create an x and y axis to tilt n,s & e,w
Great design. I am going to try this myself but a little more beefy. I have very big 455 watt panels I want to mount 2 so I decided to uses 4x4 legs and the cross beam 4 x 6. Then mount some wood to hinges then solar rails to the wood. My question is about the actuator polarity going back and forth fighting between the small panels. I would think would eventially burn up the actuator motor?
Nice man, would love to see that! As for the actuator motor, hasn't burned up yet, going the 5th month of everyday operation without a single problem!
Could you use 2 actuators to deal with the extra weight?
Make sure the frame and panels are balanced and not one side being heavier or out of balance than the other side?
Well you got my sub. Well done
Thanks!
Afghanistan, Very Cool idea.
Thanks!
any diodes added there?
No
i just wish you could catch that extra 40 watts of power
The only issue I see with this design is that very high winds have a good chance of damaging it
Yeah. I came up with an idea to use a small wind turbine to move the unit to the flat position. Just have not implemented it yet.
@@BradCagle have u done this yet?