Holy crap. Thank you for basically doing my research and project for me. I'm looking to do strips as well as I don't like the look of the popular options out there, and you did it all. Can't thank you enough for this video and the compiled information.
Thank you for the wonderful video. I am also from PNW (Portland), and you have considered all critical maintenance and weather related aspects. I am researching options for permanent outdoor lights around the house and lightshow options, and your video is very helpful. Any thoughts on how you decided between Pixel lights vs. WS2815 strip lights? Are the WS2815 strips programmable for a lightshow using Xlight software and falcon controller? Thank you for your time and the wonderful video.
@@pinu1166 Hello fellow PNW’r! Yes the individually addressable LED strip lights are programmable in X lights. I landed on WS 2815 because I was familiar with the platform of LED strip lights and they were 12 V and didn’t require any power injection for my set up. hope that helps. Feel free to reach out with any more questions and best wishes.
Thank you sir for making this video ! I been trying to do my lights for couple of years but was hard to understand the concept! You made it easy , my house is almost the same os you so I’m following your plan ! Thanks
Wow you are a very thorough planner. Thank you for sharing your experience. This is basically what I want to do minus the second floor (thank goodness I have a single story home). I live in Oregon so it’s nice to hear from someone that has to deal with the rain and ice. I was debating between the strips or pixels but I think the strips look better in the day. I’m definitely going to be studying the links you shared. I wonder if maybe one of the connections wasn’t fully sealed and it glitched because humidity got in. Good to know about the heat shrink issue. Definitely will be careful with that.
Hey Rachael, thanks for watching. Yeah, I'm certainly a planner, but the plan is always a baseline for change :). I have no idea what the glitching gremlin was, some kind of circuitry in that strip was not happy. Maybe it was humidity that provoked it, I will never know. Best wishes on your project. Please reach out with any questions, I have learned a lot and have done several other projects since this one.
You can run the wires in a combined cable, but it does require a different ohm resistor be used than defaulted on the controller (DigQuad). On the latest version there are built in switches that let you flip the resistor setting depending on cable type used.
Thanks for watching, and the info on the resisters. I knew about the ohm switches on the DigQuad and changed them many times, but ultimately followed the advice on Discord forums and QuinLED on Data Signal wires. Check it out: quinled.info/data-signal-cable-conditioning/#:~:text=The%20Myth%20of%20the%20Data%20Signal%20Resistor
Really really cool video and very inspiring! I would like to know if you had anymore issues with the LEDs after ? I am planning to put permanent LEDs but I see plenty of people suggesting pixels. I would appreciate sharing your experience
Hey, thank you 🙏. No more issues, I use them every night, usually a nice architectural look with segmented white lights. Strips vs pixels is a long debate. Personally I like the look of the strips being hidden and the pixels stand out too much for me. Pixels are easier to work on once they are up. Both have equal gremlins though. Dr Z’s people will lead you to believe it’s just the strips that have issues but I see the same pixel issues every day. Thanks for watching, let me know if I can help.
Thanks for watching. I cut the corners at 45 degrees with the covers on so they all matched. The peaks I used a combination square to measure the angle and cut them to that angle.
Your overheating issue.... I've heard that running the lights for a long time while still on the roll will overheat them. Is it possible that your burn in tests overheated that segment?
No, they did not get warm on the rolls or bundled for testing. I was very careful not to overheat the lights by keeping the lights at 10% or less and alternating the light effects so as not to overheat them at all while on the rolls etc. Thanks much for watching.
I cut my teeth on setting up lights around my garage. I have Gemstone lights on my front roof line. I am trying to find a way to integrate everything together but no luck so far.
@@GYATEZ I have but genuine doesn't play move with other systems. I could swap out the controller but didn't want to boys my warranty. They did mention possibly making a compatible controller but no luck yet
Great video! I to am working on putting LED's on my house at the moment. ws2815 to be exact, I wanted individually addressable. something that you didnt show or explain was how you did the peaks, so that they were seamless. I have 2 peaks that I need to address, and I dont want a cold spot or hot spot. can you explain how you connected them? Lots of good information in there, and I will be back to watch this a few more times.
The peaks are hard to describe, but basically they are one long run. Lead wire from the DigQuad to the first lower peak, then a 12’ wire bundle from the end of the first peak to the beginning of the second peak. I tucked those wires in under the house siding. You can check out my Miro board to have this make more sense. miro.com/app/board/uXjVPKmrZZc=/
Fantastic video! This has probably 99% of all the questions I had, even after having spent the day doing a lot of probably the same research you had done with those various RUclips channels you mentioned. The only question I have remaining is how exactly did you route the cabling for the LED 4 section, particularly at the junction between your roof's two separate peaks? Looking at your Miro board, first page, the first picture on the second row shows the three orange second-story segments, with LED 3 going off one direction and LED 4 the other (LED 4 being two separate segments). For the LED 4 run, you show the two separate orange segments, but nothing I can see that indicates how you did the wiring between the end of the first and the beginning of the second (since I believe they need to be contiguous for the controller to address everything individually). Did you run down the first segment, then back up (maybe still within the housing), and then to the second segment? Or maybe loop around the end and go back up the roof? Thanks!
Wow, thanks for watching and checking it out, even the Miro board, right on.👍 To answer your question, it was tricky. I just updated the Miro board, the 1st planning frame and the bottom there is one pic that shows how I routed that wire. I used black wire (to blend in with the flashing), and routed it from the end of first peak on the left side under the gutter, drilled a hole to connect it to the first peak roof line in the back, and routed it all the way up that first peak in the back, under some flashing and I used U-nails to hold it down. There was one section that still showed, but I painted it to match the color of the house. Best wishes in your project. I finished another one, with my stairs lighting project 😀👍
@@GYATEZ That makes sense. Thanks! I figured I'll try to go that route as well. The cabling would probably be too bulky to u-turn in the diffuser channel. I've definitely got that new video on my list to watch.
how long of a data run was it from your digi quad to the first led and did you have to use a data booster and if you did do you put it right at the guad of some feet up the wire?
Data wire was only 15' from Dig Quad to the beginning of the LED1 run, which was 23' long. No data booster required. If you need data boosting you can use the onboard data booster on the Dig Quad, just toggle it from default 249 ohms to 33 ohms. See this: quinled.info/data-signal-cable-conditioning/
@@GYATEZ thank you for the reply good article on the resistors size and thanks for the video it was helpful I am going to start my project with DR zz permatrack next week
@@TimLindsey Glad it helped. Be careful what help you listen to on Dr Zzs Facebook group, just know there are varying levels of expertise and can lead you astray. If you get stuck, you're better off jumping onto Intermit.Tech (Quindoor) Discord group. Those people are the experts.
Holy crap. Thank you for basically doing my research and project for me. I'm looking to do strips as well as I don't like the look of the popular options out there, and you did it all. Can't thank you enough for this video and the compiled information.
I’m so glad it helped 👍. Reach out with any questions, I’m pretty quick to respond and have helped many people 👍
Thanks for sharing. Good thing you had your safety harness on. 😬
I think about it all the time 😮
Am I the only one emotionally invested everytime one of the gremlins show up 😂😂😂
I feel ya, seems to happen a lot to me for whatever reason, but then I'm laser focused to figure it out :) Thanks much for watching 👍
Great information, thanks for sharing.
Thank you, and thanks for watching, Dale. Please let me know if you have any questions, I'm pretty quick to respond 👍
Thank you for the wonderful video. I am also from PNW (Portland), and you have considered all critical maintenance and weather related aspects. I am researching options for permanent outdoor lights around the house and lightshow options, and your video is very helpful. Any thoughts on how you decided between Pixel lights vs. WS2815 strip lights? Are the WS2815 strips programmable for a lightshow using Xlight software and falcon controller? Thank you for your time and the wonderful video.
@@pinu1166 Hello fellow PNW’r! Yes the individually addressable LED strip lights are programmable in X lights. I landed on WS 2815 because I was familiar with the platform of LED strip lights and they were 12 V and didn’t require any power injection for my set up. hope that helps. Feel free to reach out with any more questions and best wishes.
@GYATEZ Thank you for the quick reply. I will definitely be in touch as I get into my actual installation.
Thank you sir for making this video ! I been trying to do my lights for couple of years but was hard to understand the concept! You made it easy , my house is almost the same os you so I’m following your plan ! Thanks
Excellent, glad it helps. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks for watching 👍
Great video of your journey. Thanks
Great information! Thanks for sharing and ... It looks awesome!
Glad you found it helpful, thanks a lot for watching! 👍
I really enjoyed your video and thank you for sharing!
Much appreciated, thanks for watching it :)
Wow you are a very thorough planner. Thank you for sharing your experience. This is basically what I want to do minus the second floor (thank goodness I have a single story home). I live in Oregon so it’s nice to hear from someone that has to deal with the rain and ice. I was debating between the strips or pixels but I think the strips look better in the day. I’m definitely going to be studying the links you shared.
I wonder if maybe one of the connections wasn’t fully sealed and it glitched because humidity got in. Good to know about the heat shrink issue. Definitely will be careful with that.
Hey Rachael, thanks for watching. Yeah, I'm certainly a planner, but the plan is always a baseline for change :). I have no idea what the glitching gremlin was, some kind of circuitry in that strip was not happy. Maybe it was humidity that provoked it, I will never know. Best wishes on your project. Please reach out with any questions, I have learned a lot and have done several other projects since this one.
You can run the wires in a combined cable, but it does require a different ohm resistor be used than defaulted on the controller (DigQuad). On the latest version there are built in switches that let you flip the resistor setting depending on cable type used.
Thanks for watching, and the info on the resisters. I knew about the ohm switches on the DigQuad and changed them many times, but ultimately followed the advice on Discord forums and QuinLED on Data Signal wires. Check it out: quinled.info/data-signal-cable-conditioning/#:~:text=The%20Myth%20of%20the%20Data%20Signal%20Resistor
Thank you for watching, please Subscribe here: bit.ly/subscribe_GYATEZ
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Really really cool video and very inspiring! I would like to know if you had anymore issues with the LEDs after ? I am planning to put permanent LEDs but I see plenty of people suggesting pixels. I would appreciate sharing your experience
Hey, thank you 🙏. No more issues, I use them every night, usually a nice architectural look with segmented white lights. Strips vs pixels is a long debate. Personally I like the look of the strips being hidden and the pixels stand out too much for me. Pixels are easier to work on once they are up. Both have equal gremlins though. Dr Z’s people will lead you to believe it’s just the strips that have issues but I see the same pixel issues every day. Thanks for watching, let me know if I can help.
So what kind of cost do you estimate your set up on your house, in comparison to out of box lights like Govee?
@@brianness9053 Roughly $1,200.
How did you do the corners are the channel. I didnt catch that part.
Thanks for watching. I cut the corners at 45 degrees with the covers on so they all matched. The peaks I used a combination square to measure the angle and cut them to that angle.
@@GYATEZ that's what I did for my garage. Your set up looks great
@@saliston Thanks so much!
Your overheating issue.... I've heard that running the lights for a long time while still on the roll will overheat them. Is it possible that your burn in tests overheated that segment?
No, they did not get warm on the rolls or bundled for testing. I was very careful not to overheat the lights by keeping the lights at 10% or less and alternating the light effects so as not to overheat them at all while on the rolls etc. Thanks much for watching.
I cut my teeth on setting up lights around my garage. I have Gemstone lights on my front roof line. I am trying to find a way to integrate everything together but no luck so far.
Have you looked into XLights? They are a good option to integrate multiple types and manufacturers devices together into scenes etc.
@@GYATEZ I have but genuine doesn't play move with other systems. I could swap out the controller but didn't want to boys my warranty. They did mention possibly making a compatible controller but no luck yet
Great video! I to am working on putting LED's on my house at the moment. ws2815 to be exact, I wanted individually addressable. something that you didnt show or explain was how you did the peaks, so that they were seamless. I have 2 peaks that I need to address, and I dont want a cold spot or hot spot. can you explain how you connected them?
Lots of good information in there, and I will be back to watch this a few more times.
The peaks are hard to describe, but basically they are one long run. Lead wire from the DigQuad to the first lower peak, then a 12’ wire bundle from the end of the first peak to the beginning of the second peak. I tucked those wires in under the house siding. You can check out my Miro board to have this make more sense. miro.com/app/board/uXjVPKmrZZc=/
Fantastic video! This has probably 99% of all the questions I had, even after having spent the day doing a lot of probably the same research you had done with those various RUclips channels you mentioned.
The only question I have remaining is how exactly did you route the cabling for the LED 4 section, particularly at the junction between your roof's two separate peaks? Looking at your Miro board, first page, the first picture on the second row shows the three orange second-story segments, with LED 3 going off one direction and LED 4 the other (LED 4 being two separate segments). For the LED 4 run, you show the two separate orange segments, but nothing I can see that indicates how you did the wiring between the end of the first and the beginning of the second (since I believe they need to be contiguous for the controller to address everything individually).
Did you run down the first segment, then back up (maybe still within the housing), and then to the second segment? Or maybe loop around the end and go back up the roof?
Thanks!
Wow, thanks for watching and checking it out, even the Miro board, right on.👍 To answer your question, it was tricky. I just updated the Miro board, the 1st planning frame and the bottom there is one pic that shows how I routed that wire. I used black wire (to blend in with the flashing), and routed it from the end of first peak on the left side under the gutter, drilled a hole to connect it to the first peak roof line in the back, and routed it all the way up that first peak in the back, under some flashing and I used U-nails to hold it down. There was one section that still showed, but I painted it to match the color of the house. Best wishes in your project. I finished another one, with my stairs lighting project 😀👍
@@GYATEZ That makes sense. Thanks! I figured I'll try to go that route as well. The cabling would probably be too bulky to u-turn in the diffuser channel.
I've definitely got that new video on my list to watch.
how long of a data run was it from your digi quad to the first led and did you have to use a data booster and if you did do you put it right at the guad of some feet up the wire?
Data wire was only 15' from Dig Quad to the beginning of the LED1 run, which was 23' long. No data booster required. If you need data boosting you can use the onboard data booster on the Dig Quad, just toggle it from default 249 ohms to 33 ohms. See this: quinled.info/data-signal-cable-conditioning/
@@GYATEZ thank you for the reply good article on the resistors size and thanks for the video it was helpful I am going to start my project with DR zz permatrack next week
@@TimLindsey Glad it helped. Be careful what help you listen to on Dr Zzs Facebook group, just know there are varying levels of expertise and can lead you astray. If you get stuck, you're better off jumping onto Intermit.Tech (Quindoor) Discord group. Those people are the experts.