I have the same Ampeg and mine used to sound fuzzy distorted until I kept it on and played thru it for about 15 minutes. Now its about 8 months since then and now it makes that same a similar loud popping sound when I turn it on and start playing. The lower the note the worse the popping is and I can get a few high notes on my D and G strings that get thru the sub without it popping. The best way I can describe the sound is da dut da dut da dut da dut.
@@DeadKoby Well I just bought myself a soldering kit for christmas but I have never done any type of soldering work nor have I ever done any work on any kind of circuit boards. I know its not difficult to work the soldering gun but I would hate to mess up somehow and create an even worse problem. So do you have any tips that you can give a beginner like me that might help to get thru this task a bit easier or without ruining anything?
Although this gent it working on a computer, this is some pretty decent visuals. You want to reflow the solder on the largest transistors. Heat it up, add a touch of solder. ruclips.net/video/9VYA9ufb4Jc/видео.html
I have the old 100 watt BA 115. Bought it second hand about 6 years ago. Two weeks ago, I was playing my Warwick streamer, with the amp set at around 12 o’clock gain and 1 o’clock master, the three preamp dials set around 1 o’clock and the five way selector switch set at two. All of a sudden I hear a pop and the amp goes silent. I see that it was really hot. I let it cool off, and turn it on. Nothing happens. I unplug it wait a while and take out the amp from the cab which was difficult to pull out. I see that the fuse is blown. The next day I purchase several fuses of this type. It blew up three fuses. Next step: check the speaker. After considerable effort, I managed to remove the grill and check the speaker and the tweeter. I check them out with a multimeter and they are both fine. So, I take it to a technician to have it checked out. Both output transistors were shorted. According to the technician, it was never opened or touched. It was exactly as it came out of the factory. So all in all, it has giving good service for, I figure,15 years. The technician told me that he’s had several BA amps including two BA 108 with the same problem: blown MOSFETS. These amps heat up real quickly and I don’t understand why Ampeg doesn’t put a cooling fan. I don’t know if this 220 has the same problem. The technician also removed a lot of glue which is exaggeratedly applied all over the circuit board. This is another reason why it heats up so much, so he told me he removed quite a bit of it. I am picking up the amp tomorrow. Note aside, it’s a great sounding amp. Although it’s a 100 watt amp, I have a Laney RB3 65 watt amp with a 12 inch speaker that’s way louder. Go figure.
DeadKoby Thanks for the reply. I’m using the original stock Ampeg speaker and tweeter. I think the more powerful Ampegs bring the same stock speaker. The Laney RB3 65 watt amp has a Celestion. In my opinion, I I think the 100 watt label on the BA115 is a bit exaggerated. I’m picking up my amp at the repairman tommorow and I’ll be trying it in a few days. I’m really anxious to see if the performance improved since the bias was adjusted and the same for the THD and other parameters, since the full schematics are available on the internet. Must keep in mind that this amp is made in China, it’s not American. I’m not saying that this is bad. I’m just saying that maybe quality control back when it was made was a bit lax.
I had the USA made BA112 for a number of years. It worked well as a studio amp. It would make sense that new power transistors should have the bias adjusted slightly to meet with the component's ideal operation. If you want it LOUDER, try a new Eminence Bass speaker.... those are quite efficient.
DeadKoby Among other amps( a Warwick combo, Gallien Krueger amp head, Fender RAD bass amp, ) I have a Fender BXR 100 watt amp with Eminence. It’s also way louder than the BA 115. I think AMPEG cut corners on their BA 115 stock speaker. I’m going to try out the newly repaired BA with a Peavey Black Widow and a JBL. I hope they fit in the Ampeg cab. If not, I’ll leave things as they are. I’m also going to try it out with an active bass (Sterling Ray 34) which sounds really great on the BXR. I never tried it with the BA 115.
Ampeg was owned by SLM (saint louis music) at the time this amp was made. Those are the same folks behind Crate. I believe "value engineering" is at fault.
I don't earn a nickel from this channel... I have short range LED's so I can see my work, and I film with a 8 year old potato camera... Donations accepted.
I'm not talking about "Manfrotto Sky Track" systems, but a couple of 6 dollar clamp lamps will eliminate shadows and provide back lighting. I don't have much discretionary money at the moment but I would provide hands on technical assistance (gratis) enough to make Uncle D. proud. How far from Chicago do you live.
I'm out near Cleveland Ohio. Perhaps the auctions that provide me with this wonderful stuff to fix will surprise me with some nice filming gear. I fund what I do on this channel with Buy/Sell/Trade of music gear. For example, the profits from a few fixed things buys a kit to build. Also, many of the kits I've done were holiday presents I've received from my family.
Hi, so my ampeg turns on fine, but after 30 seconds it turns off. Then i replug, and turns off after 5 seconds. What can be the problem? Pr how to fix?
A buddy of mine has one with scratchy pots. My question is I pulled the 6 screws out that were obvious, 3 on each side when trying to remove the chassis and it was still giving me resistance at the bottom near the transformer are there other fasteners or is it just stuck and need a little positive persuasion?
Goodnight friend. I have a BA115 that makes POOOOOOFFF when turning on and makes Poof when turning off ..... could it be some bad capacitor? thanks for the videos ... and thanks if you can help me!
@@DeadKoby thank you very much for responding! so ... even without volume, the POOF happens ... it seems to be a negative discharge in the speaker because it runs backwards ... could any capacitor in the drive be in trouble?
@@DeadKoby thanks for answering! I think it's right there! the negative side of the source discharges faster than the positive! thanks for the guidance !!
I have the exact same problem with this model. It makes a horrific noise at random times. Then sometimes it goes away and plays fine. Could it be an overheating issue with shorted resistors?
@@DeadKoby I get ya, but the actual sound you showed on that video is the exact like the exact same. It seems to be a thing with the BA115hp. I am gonna retreat gracefully and give it to a pro. I noticed earlier I could have electrocuted myself and my cat. Wanted to save money and do it myself but time to admit lack of knowledge and hand it over
GoldStar5 I bought mine from my old bass player and he was able to get it over my drums when he used it at practice I play HARD too. But yeah, it worked fine with a whole band.
Can I ask for your suggestions regarding setting the bias? I got the amp used with blown outputs, I've now replaced them and checked everything else, power on a light bulb limiter to set the bias safely but across one of the 4 resistors I get 0mV, is it possible? Thanks
I have the same Ampeg and mine used to sound fuzzy distorted until I kept it on and played thru it for about 15 minutes. Now its about 8 months since then and now it makes that same a similar loud popping sound when I turn it on and start playing. The lower the note the worse the popping is and I can get a few high notes on my D and G strings that get thru the sub without it popping. The best way I can describe the sound is da dut da dut da dut da dut.
Touching up the solder around the power transistors cannot hurt.
@@DeadKoby Well I just bought myself a soldering kit for christmas but I have never done any type of soldering work nor have I ever done any work on any kind of circuit boards. I know its not difficult to work the soldering gun but I would hate to mess up somehow and create an even worse problem. So do you have any tips that you can give a beginner like me that might help to get thru this task a bit easier or without ruining anything?
Although this gent it working on a computer, this is some pretty decent visuals. You want to reflow the solder on the largest transistors. Heat it up, add a touch of solder. ruclips.net/video/9VYA9ufb4Jc/видео.html
I have the old 100 watt BA 115. Bought it second hand about 6 years ago. Two weeks ago, I was playing my Warwick streamer, with the amp set at around 12 o’clock gain and 1 o’clock master, the three preamp dials set around 1 o’clock and the five way selector switch set at two. All of a sudden I hear a pop and the amp goes silent. I see that it was really hot. I let it cool off, and turn it on. Nothing happens. I unplug it wait a while and take out the amp from the cab which was difficult to pull out. I see that the fuse is blown. The next day I purchase several fuses of this type. It blew up three fuses. Next step: check the speaker. After considerable effort, I managed to remove the grill and check the speaker and the tweeter. I check them out with a multimeter and they are both fine. So, I take it to a technician to have it checked out. Both output transistors were shorted. According to the technician, it was never opened or touched. It was exactly as it came out of the factory. So all in all, it has giving good service for, I figure,15 years. The technician told me that he’s had several BA amps including two BA 108 with the same problem: blown MOSFETS. These amps heat up real quickly and I don’t understand why Ampeg doesn’t put a cooling fan. I don’t know if this 220 has the same problem. The technician also removed a lot of glue which is exaggeratedly applied all over the circuit board. This is another reason why it heats up so much, so he told me he removed quite a bit of it. I am picking up the amp tomorrow. Note aside, it’s a great sounding amp. Although it’s a 100 watt amp, I have a Laney RB3 65 watt amp with a 12 inch speaker that’s way louder. Go figure.
Transistors can wear down just like Tubes can. It happens. Volume vs. Wattage depends greatly on the efficiency of your speakers.
DeadKoby Thanks for the reply. I’m using the original stock Ampeg speaker and tweeter. I think the more powerful Ampegs bring the same stock speaker. The Laney RB3 65 watt amp has a Celestion. In my opinion, I I think the 100 watt label on the BA115 is a bit exaggerated. I’m picking up my amp at the repairman tommorow and I’ll be trying it in a few days. I’m really anxious to see if the performance improved since the bias was adjusted and the same for the THD and other parameters, since the full schematics are available on the internet. Must keep in mind that this amp is made in China, it’s not American. I’m not saying that this is bad. I’m just saying that maybe quality control back when it was made was a bit lax.
I had the USA made BA112 for a number of years. It worked well as a studio amp. It would make sense that new power transistors should have the bias adjusted slightly to meet with the component's ideal operation. If you want it LOUDER, try a new Eminence Bass speaker.... those are quite efficient.
DeadKoby Among other amps( a Warwick combo, Gallien Krueger amp head, Fender RAD bass amp, ) I have a Fender BXR 100 watt amp with Eminence. It’s also way louder than the BA 115. I think AMPEG cut corners on their BA 115 stock speaker. I’m going to try out the newly repaired BA with a Peavey Black Widow and a JBL. I hope they fit in the Ampeg cab. If not, I’ll leave things as they are. I’m also going to try it out with an active bass (Sterling Ray 34) which sounds really great on the BXR. I never tried it with the BA 115.
You're right that the BA115 has a wimpy speaker, and certainly could get a boost with an upgrade.
thank you for the video , was very helpful, however the video quality is so low that is difficult to see the details
Feel free to donate any higher quality video equipment you wish to.
Just curious as to why someone would plug it in first with something rolling around inside. Take your chances, I guess.
Living dangerously..
Ampeg really missed that mark with these amps. I had one for 10 years. It was good but gave me problems on and off.
Ampeg was owned by SLM (saint louis music) at the time this amp was made. Those are the same folks behind Crate. I believe "value engineering" is at fault.
DK, I think you should get a flood light or two.
I don't earn a nickel from this channel... I have short range LED's so I can see my work, and I film with a 8 year old potato camera... Donations accepted.
I'm not talking about "Manfrotto Sky Track" systems, but a couple of 6 dollar clamp lamps will eliminate shadows and provide back lighting. I don't have much discretionary money at the moment but I would provide hands on technical assistance (gratis) enough to make Uncle D. proud. How far from Chicago do you live.
I'm out near Cleveland Ohio. Perhaps the auctions that provide me with this wonderful stuff to fix will surprise me with some nice filming gear. I fund what I do on this channel with Buy/Sell/Trade of music gear. For example, the profits from a few fixed things buys a kit to build. Also, many of the kits I've done were holiday presents I've received from my family.
Hi, so my ampeg turns on fine, but after 30 seconds it turns off. Then i replug, and turns off after 5 seconds.
What can be the problem? Pr how to fix?
Use a thermal camera and look for an overheating component.
A buddy of mine has one with scratchy pots. My question is I pulled the 6 screws out that were obvious, 3 on each side when trying to remove the chassis and it was still giving me resistance at the bottom near the transformer are there other fasteners or is it just stuck and need a little positive persuasion?
I think you should unplug the speaker
@DeadKoby yes I knew that, I should have said that as well just to be clearer
Goodnight friend. I have a BA115 that makes POOOOOOFFF when turning on and makes Poof when turning off ..... could it be some bad capacitor? thanks for the videos ... and thanks if you can help me!
On solid state amps, this isn't that unusual. If it works ok, I wouldn't concern about it. Turn your volume low when powering up or down.
@@DeadKoby thank you very much for responding! so ... even without volume, the POOF happens ... it seems to be a negative discharge in the speaker because it runs backwards ... could any capacitor in the drive be in trouble?
Usually, it's a result of the transistor power supply dropping. It's possible there's worn parts, but I can't guess over the Internet.
@@DeadKoby thanks for answering! I think it's right there! the negative side of the source discharges faster than the positive! thanks for the guidance !!
Glad to help. Thanks for watching.
I have the same amp with the same rattling or buzzing sound when playing. Whats the fix?
Re-soldering the power transistors is what worked for me. I wouldn't call that sound rattling though.
@@DeadKoby yeah, its more of a buzzing sound. I can hear it in this video. Very strange!
I've had others report the same thing... I guess it was a design flaw. Reflowing the power transistors worked for me.
@@DeadKoby thanks for the update! Gonna try that
I have the exact same problem with this model. It makes a horrific noise at random times. Then sometimes it goes away and plays fine. Could it be an overheating issue with shorted resistors?
It could be anything....... I can't guess without testing.
@@DeadKoby I get ya, but the actual sound you showed on that video is the exact like the exact same. It seems to be a thing with the BA115hp. I am gonna retreat gracefully and give it to a pro. I noticed earlier I could have electrocuted myself and my cat. Wanted to save money and do it myself but time to admit lack of knowledge and hand it over
the problem of my ampeg is the sound output are to low in volume
start by checking the input and pots in the preamp section.
How do you remove the chassis?
unplug the speaker.......take the screws out...
@@DeadKoby I found them the ones on the side of the cab thanks
would this amp be loud enough to play with a drummer?
Yes. As long as the drummer isn't a total maniac
DeadKoby thanks, I’m thinking of getting one used on Craigslist for $150. It just has a small tear on the grill
@@GoldStar5XL if everything else checks out that's not too bad on the price. I paid less for this one... It was broken though.
GoldStar5 I bought mine from my old bass player and he was able to get it over my drums when he used it at practice I play HARD too. But yeah, it worked fine with a whole band.
Adjust BIAS preset
Be careful the 15-25mv avg of r72-r75 still makes it a thin line from sounding good to shorting a fet In my case always Q5 N channel
Can I ask for your suggestions regarding setting the bias? I got the amp used with blown outputs, I've now replaced them and checked everything else, power on a light bulb limiter to set the bias safely but across one of the 4 resistors I get 0mV, is it possible? Thanks
Absolutely shit amps. Played mine twice and now the fuse blows every time I turn it on.
I had a BA112 for a long time, and I did fine. I sold this one after fixing it and never heard of it being a problem.