BMW N54 Intake Valve Cleaning: CRC vs ThreeBond vs Walnut Shell Comparison
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- BMW N54 Intake Valve Cleaning: CRC vs ThreeBond vs Walnut Shell Comparison
Carbon build up on direct injection engines is a huge problem, so hopefully this will help some people decide which method they choose when the time comes to get the intake valves cleaned.
While i had a very carbon'd up head sitting in the workshop, i thought it would be a great time to do a comparison on the different methods to do the intake valve clean on a direct injection engine. I had previously done a walnut blast on my other engine, however i was genuinely curious how the chemical options compare, if they are compare-bale and worth considering. Or if the walnut option is much better.... Turns out it is.
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This is becoming one of the more interesting channels that I'm subscribed to.
I'm actually quite glad that you've had all these shitty issues, it makes for good content. 😉👍
5:45 Is unfair comparison as did not use as per instruction. CRC needs apply while engine ON at 2-3krpm and heat soak afterwards.
@@C3ByAx that’s true, however it is benefit to crc since it had even more time to “do it’s job” by sitting there for 20 monut instead of just “flying around” while engine running
@@C3ByAx exactly, when you talk solubility, the temperature is a really big factor
The CRC is a pretty good product. I cleaned my 335i manually and it works by scraping with a pick tool and then extracting the dirt. Spraying CRC and the brushing off the dirt. CRC can dissolve the carbon and make it much easier to remove. But it will take you a whole day to complete.
It’s really worth it. The car drove much smoother and throttle response was way better.
The CRC is meant to be used with a warm engine and the car running at around 2000rpm with short bursts and then sit for an hour. CRC works best with heat soak. I've used it on my 335 and it seems to work well. I plan on using it as preventative maintenance right before my oil changes. but walnut blasting every 50k miles. As far as just using without heat, I don't think it was designed to perform that well without heat. It does take time though to use it at least an hour and thirty minimum. Ultimately, Walnut blasting will always give the better result with a little bit more labor and time.
I don't care what the bottle says I seen a few people hydro lock and destroy their rods spraying cleaners in to it while it's running. The crc i used was like magic spry it in to closed ports and it would bubble for an hour and the ports where cleaner than blasting jobs i have seen where the back side of the valve never gets blasted.
How did you apply it, where did you spray?
@@markt9438 how do you know it came out as good as Walnut blasting unless you took the intake manifold off to check and if you're going to take the intake manifold off to check to see if the sea f did any good you might as well properly clean it. I've done five now in the past month and there's no way that any seafoam would even touch the ones that I did I was in there with a metal pick pulling out huge chunks the size of a quarter.
@@coldfear19 I used the vaccuum port on the intake manifold for the DV's. Made it easy to get to. From there I just followed the instructions. You can use the meth port on the charge pipe as well.
I have used the CRC method with an engine brush on a drill for 2 N54s. Get's 99% of it off but I will admit I sacrificed a small cheap shop vac to suck the CRC out after each soak. Impressed with the walnut blast.
the benefit of crc is that you don't have to pull the head to do it , they do recommend to do it on a warm engine so the valves have to be hot
I used Liqui Moly valve cleaner 60k n53 , ENGINE MUST BE HOT took 2hrs valves like new,shiny brass seats,bought £10 bush set off Amazon. Sucked it out then flushed brake fluid. Couldn’t justify cost one off walnut cost,fitted catch can about 100ml gooey oil every 1000miles. A1 content.Keep on Keeping On 👍🏿 Nearly as good walnut I WOULD SAY
Thanks, nice reply. I JUST purchased a used 535 year 2014 with 66k km and will do all I can to keep it clean as possible .catch can seems the way to go but need t assess present valve state.
I agree walnut blasting is the best at cleaning valves. But crc is to be used when the engine is hot. So I'm doubting if crc was used properly in this video.
I’m doubting his scrubbing technique…didn’t show how he was scrubbing. I would think u need to spray, scrape around, then soak
No surprise that walnut-shell blasting would be the best - it's the most direct and abrasive method. However, this comparison video is not very helpful as the experiment is flawed. For example, the CRC, which has shown to have significant success, is not shown to do much at all in this video. Why might that be? The experiment was optimized for the walnut shell blasting. The CRC requires the engine to be brought to full operating temperature, then spray in short bursts into the vacuum system of the running (i.e., HOT) engine until the can is empty. Then the engine is turned off to heat soak for an hour... None of this was done in this, so again, unfair, especially when the lack of pros / cons aren't considered. If I had to hazard a guess, the walnut shell blasting would still win, but I think the other two would have a more honest test.
Yes, I agree with walnut blasting. This is the method I always use. keep in mind you will get dirty valves again within another 15k miles but its easy to get it cleaned again. It only takes about 1 hr from start to finish (including removing manifold.
I use about 90 psi with compressor setting and in the blaster. only takes a few short burst (30 sec) to get each port clean.
great vid.
The way I got it out was I took top off a hand soap dispenser. Then i basically just pumped it out as you will pump hands open to your hand.
turkey baster would work as well
So would just a shop vac
Wow, that is a excellent result from the wallnut, I didn't expect that.
I'll have to keep that in mind for future.
Keep up the good work.
Yeah, although the setup cost is higher. The walnut works so well and in a fraction of the time.
@@ZeroTo60Tube , It's a "fraction of the time" but the shops charge like wounded bulls to actually do it.
One method that works really well vs a brush is to get a bundle of zip ties together. Allows you to agitate while getting into the nooks and crannies
Hey that's an idea. Have you actually tried this method?
I believe the crc works better when the valves are warm/hot hence when the engine is running
I imagine the carbon just brakes down better when it has heat in it.
this is what we want, comparison those 3 kinds of cleaning
tq boss for bring up this video
salute from Malaysia
use a soap dispenser head to extract the dirty fluid, saw a person do this and it was perfect!
I used CRC with a big bunch of zip ties grouped together to scrub the ports it seemed to have a Better effect than using a brush.
I believe some dealerships use that technique...
I literally used e85 and gasoline to clean my valves and I vacuumed it out with a shop vac. Also you need a gun barrel brush to get the valves, bend the tip to gwt the back of the valve. I also did not mess with making sure valves were closed. It was easy and worked great. It was sketchy but no fire or explosions from the vacuum.
Sketchy to the maximum! Exposure to not just liquid gas, but high exposure to explosive + inflammable vapor! Inflammable == "easy to set on fire"! Are shopvac motors 'spark-shielded'? Why hell no? Spark → boom!
@@TSPhotoAtlanta didn't blow up. But i wont be doing it again
Walnut blasting for the win! Brilliantly done bro well worth the expense. Look at it this way. Do a few walnut blasting jobs for friends and family and the thing will pay for it self 😎
Yes but you have to remove the head .lol
Not good
Great video and thank you for the hard work of making these for us all. And a hundred N54 and many Audi voices shouted the classic line in unison "You're Doing It Wrong!!". LOL. The way to do it with the CRC is to spray it in let it sit for ten then suck it out with a battery turkey style thing or a wet vac if you have the attachment then repeat two more times. No scrubbing necessary. Repeat for other cylinder ports. Basically just follow the instructions from Vehicular DIY.
I did this job 6 years ago...#6 was also the dirtiest. Chemicals didn't do squat! It takes elbow grease.
I used good ole brake cleaner spray + paper towel + angled long needle nose pliers + harbor freight long wire brush set(cut short length of wire spool and wrap it at the brush tip so that you can jam piece of paper towel to scrub the hard to reach valve angles). With brake cleaner and wet paper towel, end result is it cleaned shiny valves right down to the valve sealing same as walnut blasting. But it takes hours and your back will hurt from leaning forward. Take lots of breaks in between.
When you look at it, it makes sense about the pointy end of cut steel wire + paper towel + brake cleaner puddle + bend the brush handle to get access to forward side. Didn't cost me next to nothing.
Just a note: From everything I've read and heard, the CRC is meant to be used while the engine is in, and has a specific set of instructions for its application. I am curious as to whether the high temperature and (perhaps) flammability of combustion leads to better results.
Also wondering whether sucking out the fluid with a baster or something else, followed by the air blaster would be a better option to reduce the mess.
That is my understanding as well. Same with Seafoam (although not a part of this comparison). CRC and Seafoam compared to Shelling the valves is a preventative maintenance practice IMHO and significantly less expensive/labor intensive than removing an intake/head to do a valve carbon cleaning job....
Yea this is not a good comparison. If the car was at operating temperature and reved up to 3000 RPMs and the let sit for an hour the drive it at 60 mph for half hour I think the results would be a completely different result
And shit if I had the head ripped off the car I'd remove the valves and clean em that way. Walnut blasting and these other options are done with the motor complete in the engine bay
it takes awhile too with the walnut blaster too because you have to stop and refill the walnut blaster. And there's a lot of clean up with emptying the shop vac afterwards and putting a ton of equipment away. And buying expensive equipment just to be able to blast walnuts
Maybe should've heated the ports with a heat gun that were to be chemically cleaned before applying the product, since both instructions on the cans said to warm the engine up first, That could be to mitigate stalling or could be that the product react better with heat and also the carbon would be softer. That creampie on cyl 1 & 4 tho.....
Good thought.
I know I am thinking walnut shell is not a absolute must not everyone has to do it and you shall see I’m gonna watch this man’s video
My only concern is it can’t be cleaning the seats when the valve is closed. So a peace of carbon stuck on a valve seat won’t be cleaned. Same as the walnut blasting with the valves closed. Also if you had the time a light port just to smooth the ports and polish with a demel, should help prevent it building up as fast.
Correct, this was to compare the products for other people who will need to be doing intake cleans. Not for my own Benifit. This head still needs to be stripped down.
Zero To 60 fair enough, think I’ve tried pretty much everything in a tin. Last time I just cleaned mine with a demel and sanding pads then polished 🤞 it helps prevent the build up. On the theory that reducing the surface area and friction should reduce the carbon build up.
i really like this kind of stuff, not the usual "im doing this, because everyone is doing it". always good think to compare things around, there could be suprise there somewhere, and almost always there is. edit: should have tried something like kitchen oven cleaner :D
I was wondering about oven cleaner. Folks in the us use it for everything and it's $1 a can from the dollar shop. Not seen it eat carbon but would be cool if it could be done on the spare head...
@@welshjohn02 yeah, i was thinking about that too, just out of curiosity, it does clean almost everything
I used the crc before. Did ok. It was a lot of scrubbing and picking. I used a 9mm bore brush to get around the valve stems. N54 ran a lot better but I'll be doing the walnut blast next time!
Definitely a quicker process and probably cleaner.
Maybe try your hand at porting since it's already out? Already have a spare just in case. Love the channel. Keep it up!
I may do. Probably not with this engine. I want to keep it stock. But the e92 definitely.
@@ZeroTo60Tube i've got a spare head i've had for years i was thinking about wtf i want to do with since i'd rather get an N53 head to do something actually serious from a professoinal, long term.
this sounds like a great idea, i wouldn't mind hacking up a few ports in the name of learning
@@flinchy952
I ported my 4G63 intake and exhaust runners 👍🏼 I think it’s fun and a kind of therapy lol I used a Dremel as well are a die grinder with various attachments... it’s not hard basically for the intake you want to “knife edge” the material in between the intake ports in each cylinder and match the opening circumference with that of the intake manifold and thats it. Then polish (make sure there aren’t any huge scratches) start with black emery then move to white 💪🏼
Port methanol injection helps clean/ keep intake valves clean
Not seen anyone do a comparison like this before, good job, I'd also be interested to see how the port cleaning has held up on the other engine since it was running port injection for a while.
We will see soon how the other motor looks. I’m expecting clean things.
Damn that's clean for only a few seconds worth... might have to buy a walnut blaster now!
You can use a bundle of cable ties to agitate the valves while the solution is breaking it down. Also you can also use a shop vac to vacume up the solution. Not everyone has the means to remove their head and have to work with it on the car.
I will go for walnut blasting if i need this job done fast and this is the best way too clean it for sure.
I usually use a a pneumatic brake bleeder or fluid extractor to suck it all out after, The hoses are usually even big enough to suck out the small particles.. Also if I am doing it with the head removed, I usually let them soak over night.
Thanks for the excellent comparison; very helpful! Just came across your channel on a walnut blast search. Subscribed!
Thanks for the sub!
I have been waiting for this videos for ages.. awesome video guys 👌
That rocker cover port is where the oil comes from,tuners are putting pipe plugs in the rocker ports and going external pcv system
you got a link to someone with this? or more info?
@@freemaysin5088 Look into tapping and plugging the intake runner port holes that go to the valve cover and externalize your low-side PCV system (via RB Turbo's kit) through a low-flow catch can (like a mishimoto or cheap ones on amazon like Tasan Racing that have the sintered metal air/oil separator). This way, you separate the valve cover from all boost, making it less likely to crack and/or make the gasket leak. Also, under vacuum conditions, having those holes plugged keeps un-separated oil mist out of the intake runners (because externalized PCV would then redirected this mist to a catch can first, before the separated air goes back to your throttle body). This maintains crank case vaccum as well. I catch 3x as much oil in my mishimoto low side can than the burger motorsports "high side" can. I run both.
@@bitcoredotorg thanks man i appreciate it i will start diggin around!
To use the CRC correctly the engine needs to be together and running. You are supposed to spay two entire cans into a running engine turning at 3000 rpm, with intermittent revs up to 3500. Let sit for an hour then take to the highway and blow everything out... done this way there is no mess as all
That’s what you’re supposed to do. I’ve never actually seen anyone successfully clean a di car with out taking the intake manifold off and scrubbing tho. Maybe if you did the crc treatment very frequently, might avoid it
Zero To 60 agreed, walnut blasting works the best. There’s a RUclips channel called watchjrgo that used the crc the recommended way, then used a camera to see the results.... it’s not as good as walnut blasting, but it also doesn’t require any disassembly. I have a 2010 335 and I do walnut blasting every 20000 miles, and crc halfway between blastings
Zero To 60 just realized I might be coming off rude, I don’t mean to. Love the channel, and you.
Max where do you spray crc, when the engine is running?
@@coldfear19 while the Ivan is running spray the crc into the vacuum line that connects to the intake manifold
I cleaned mine with carb cleaner... it took me a day and a half. I am very particular and I wanted it to look perfectly clean though
the three bond/subaru stuff is supposed to be used regularly as a preventative every oil change. Even back in the GC8 days we would pull off the vac line, spray it in and let it sit while doing another car. For caked on stuff you need to let it sit or repeat applications. It came out when port injection was the norm. For DI engines that are badly caked up like this it was never designed for and I would expect several applications over a period of time would be acceptable. Couple of cans vs the guy who doesnt have a compressor, shop vac and media blaster might not want to go buy that stuff to use it once a year/5 years. If I had a DI car, I would drill and tap each runner if possible and use a grub screw/bolt so cleaning isnt such a big deal. Of if you use a port injection kit just remove the injectors and spray it in there
Also that walnut blaster is fantastic!
I have to admit, I found the application of the ThreeBond stuff somewhat sexual.
I'm going to buy a 335 coupe and tear the motor apart to do all the maintance and build the top end straight away. These videos are very motivating to do a lot of the work myself. Project 335 track car incoming! Thank you
Hell yeah! The n54s are quite fun if you are a genuine enthusiast who likes working and improving things.
As a cleaning agent the three bond didn't work so well. But as directed you are supposed to spray it into a vacuum line whilst engine running. So if you factor that time it's probably a 5 min set up. Whereas the walnut requires the intake removal. I have the three bond already. So I'll see if I can use my borescope to inspect and get a pic of the valves before and after three bond. I'm not sure if I will be able to see. But I'll report on the process if I can. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to see it running again! Mine is also on the stands at the moment. :(
Any update on using it while running?
@@Drumheros hey. Thanks for reply. Car has been stuck on the jacks. :( Got a few other issues before I get it going again. I'll see how far I can get this weekend. What car you got?
In other videos i have seen that crc is actualy very good. You just have to do it twice and pump the fluid out.
I've use CRC valve cleaner numerous times and it never take as long as you say and it comes out way much cleaner then you have shown. That stuff works well. Maybe not as well as walnut blasting would but pretty well.
Like I said in the video, I estimate it was maybe half done. How bad have the ones been that you have done and how long do you think it too per cylinder?
Regarding the mess with the CRC, if you drain/suck out the carbonjuice with the top of a soap dispensor or syringe, you can reduce the mess significantly. I dont recommend using a short piece of tube and doing the old gasoline theif method, it does smell nice, but it definitely doesnt taste nice :(
Last weekend I used the CRC to clean the ports on N54 90k miles never done before. I filled ports with the slop then chiseled away with a aluminum pick set then vacuumed out the muck. I was having bad auto trans shifts turns out the engine was so choked it was effecting the auto trans adaptations making it feel clunky on down shifts. Now car feels totally different.
There was no shop here that did walnut blasting, getting the tools and importing them was waaaaaay too much money, so I went the chemical route with a methanol based cleaner. Took roughly between an hour to an hour 20 mins each cylinder and half a can each, using a toothbrush and a C thing like dentists use to reach the hard spots.
End result? Similar to walnut blasting but I can assure you I would never recommend doing it this way if you cN get walnut blasting. Takes for fucking ever and makes a mess
Use crc every other oil change and you’ll never need to resort to walnut blasting.
Yes, walnut is blasting is best. I've actually gone the CRC route and it took some work.
Good to see results in a side by side campairison. Great to see you take the bad news of low compression cylinder as an opportunity to learn and teach. I ever break down in a small town without a mechanic to trust, I can trust in the knowledge.
You’re welcome. Thanks for following along.
Great job guys. You can use a turkey baster to get the liquid crc gunk out.
I am also interested in this instruction "Carry out "Start-up after walnut-shell blasting" service function.
"!
I use CLR to clean carbon from stainless barrels. I am now thinking maybe it could be used to clean the runners
I get why you need to go the chemical clean with the valves in situ but I'd recommend removing the valves and cleaning separately to ensure guides and valve seats are properly cleaned.
Then hand the head to a shop for hot tank clean. Not expensive.
And I clean my valves with a wire wheel on the bench grinder without any issues
I didn’t need to chemical clean at all. As I mentioned this video exists to compare the methods. Not because I needed to. This head still needs to be stripped for what I’m doing.
There problem with the comparison is with the 2 can products your not following the instructions.
I've used the threebond myself.
It's states to have the engine HOT and to do it in a running engine.
The whole thing takes about 15 mins.
I'm 100% sure the Walnut blasting will do a better job.
But if you add the time it takes to REMOVE THE HEAD! It loses to the cans for time.
i used a brass barrel brush on a drill when i did my valves on a mps. then used a shop vac to extract the schmutz
Try a handful of cable ties tied together. Keep stabbing them into the port. From what I've seen it works quite well
I've heard that as well. Figured the brushes and picks i was using would have been fine. But either way, the chemicals definitely take a while.
Seems the chemical cleaning methods might be something to use regularly to prevent them getting into that state, but if you need to clean up neglected intakes, walnut blasting is the way to go. One thing of interest, I mentioned cleaning the inlet valves to the euro mechanic I use and was expecting him to say walnut blasting but he said soda blasting, ever heard of that??
Soda is just a different abrasive. However I would be much more concerned about spraying it the intake. The walnut is soft in comparison. And definitely strong enough.
Walnut works so well. Just a pain buying all the gear. And I can confirm you do need a semi decent compressor (not the Aldi one 🤣)
have you thought about useing a burning laser to vapourize the carbon off the valves..no mess the carbon on the valves in lots of cases is not hardened on, just spongy like.. i have seen some not to costly handheld lasers here in the states.. 80 to 120 $.. just a thought i have been working on
I did the CRC cleaning last year and it worked great. I followed the instruction from Vehicular DIY as well. Great videos. The only thing with all of the options is cleaning the valve seat. With the valves closed it's just not possible.
I didn't try running the engine while using the cleaner.
Thanks for sharing
I love the video but I think preventative maintenance would be Subaru Upper Engine cleaner mate!! If your car needs Walnut Blasting do it, then every service chuck a can of Subaru UEC and you never have an issue quick and cheap don’t need to do any of this!!
Kinda hard to compare a chem product against Walnut.
CRC doesn't require dismember of the engine and has a process that makes it quite effective written on the can.
It saves V8 BMW owners like myself over 2000$ for a walnut job when 2 cans of CRC do the same thing.
CRC isnt strong enough to remove the build up of carbon by itself, it 100% needs to agitated and like you see in this video, quite aggressively scraped. That said, if you have a PI car (or have had a walnut blast and have clean valves) then using the crc regularly should do the job. Just not when it is built up like mountain of tar.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I run crc every 5k as preventative maintenance on my n63 since the engine has to be removed to even lay eyes on the intake valves.
I've personally seen my CEL go off after running a full can down each bank.
It may not have your valves looking prestine after sitting cold for 20min against the instructions, but it absolutely cleans the valve seats enough to seal the combustion chambers.
I love your procedure sir, Keep sharing sir ty so much 👍👍
You could have used a Shop Vac with a small rubber hose on the end
really good video. throw some affiliate links in the description for the walnut blast gear
I think crc method but with engine running seems to be ok I do this in vw evey 10k miles seems to work well open the manifold in these new cars is a disaster waiting to happen too many things to remove
Worthwhile test, thanks for putting in the effort and the time. I'm surprised how much they charge to "walnut blast" when it is not very time consuming to undertake it appears.
The price is for labor, to pull you intake off. Some places even pull the head -- not cheap
I suggest you try putting a magnet into the bag of walnut shell some of this media is contaminated with metallic particles which if any gets int the engine cylinders or in the valve guide it could ruin your engine
I’ve cleaned heads I’ve had off with three bond. Let it soak for 48 hours and carbon falls off. The crc and three bond will not work inside 30 mins on a cold engine.
I did mine with the CRC only a couple of weeks ago. After treatment and scraping I sucked out the juice with a syringe first before hitting it with compressed air. I then hit the port with brake cleaner, compressed air again and then reapplied CRC. Some ports I did three times, some took four to get properly clean and I still couldn't get the carbon right down at the edges of the valve.
Even with the motor out, it was still way too much work with the CRC. There is no way I'm doing it in the car. Here's hoping that Threebond treatments every service keep the carbon at bay.
A syringe, that would have saved me a hell of a lot of mess haha.
Please let me know how the threebond treatments go. I’m a pi guy so my car the valves should stay pretty clean. But keen to know for others if theeebond works
@@ZeroTo60Tube Don't worry, there was still plenty of mess. I'm glad I waited until after that job to clean the block haha.
Coming from Subaru land, the Threebond does work but its definitely meant to be an every service kind of thing, as you saw it's not going to break down the big stuff.
I am also curious to see how it goes with a DI car, but it's not going to do many Ks so it's going to be a long while before the manifold comes off again.
NICE! I just went the cheaper route with CRC and took a lot more time lol, Great video!!
I was curious how big the difference was in regards to work required. Chemical route takes a lot longer than I was expecting.
Zero To 6O I spent about a good hour per cylinder. 15 minute soaking and cleaning intervals. Just couldn’t afford to purchase all the supplies for a walnut blasting. It definitely helps that you know someone who can 3D print as well because that attachment for the shop vac is awesome
Walnuts for the win. Good video.👊
Meanwhile most of my local shops use the chemical/manual method cause "walnut blasting is messy"
Nah... They just want hours to bill.
oh WOW the walnut destroys the others in only a minute! Im surprised most shops dont do this ( I know super expensive setup but once in it cuts time down alot )
Both the CRC and Seafoam are heat activated, they aren't supposed to be used like dish soap.
They hardly do any thing to DI engines with this much build when used as per the tin. The chemicals inside you will find are not heat activated, would love to know where you read that? However the carbon is easier to break down when warm, so i get where you might be coming from. But yeah again, using them as stated on the tin in a N54 is absolutely pointless. Unless you do it say every 5000klms.
A tinfoil hatted reddit post I recently read in the wee hours of the night suggested a heat resistant ceramic coating for the valves next time I rebuild. Supposedly it prevents the carbon from sticking to the valves as much...the stock PCV system on the N54 is also supposedly garbage.
The stock PCV is desigend to let some of that vapour back through. I believe its an emmisions thing, but not really sure. The ceramic definitely makes sense tho. Likely a similar coating to what is on pistons.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Going to give it a shot before I put the head back on and swap in my built motor...might as well while I wait for my turbos to arrive.
While PCV systems certainly help with emissions I wonder if law makers ever ask themselves "if emissions equipment ruins engine efficiency over time how much are we actually helping the environment by requiring it?"
Good video but I hear crc works better with a engine running and dumping it down the intake
Pull them out and wire wheel on the bench grinder and blast the ports with walnut shell then lap them all back in
Way ahead of you. This vid is just for others looking at the different ways they can clean their own intake ports. I’ve never seen anyone use both a chemical method and walnut at the same time. They do it the way they think is best and say “yes it works”. I wanted to see for myself how different the two ways of cleaning a di intake port are.
Are you going to lap all the valves in why there off so you no the seats are all good
You have all the tools for the people who don’t or people you don’t trust such as me I trust very few people to touch my car after someone installed my battery like AutoZone sucks oh Helen Keller could do it it was a nightmare!
Using crc or sea foam every other oil change will keep the valves spotless if done correctly. Of course it doesn’t matter if you buy a used DI motor that’s been neglected by previous owner
Yeah i completely agree i think thats the way to go. Give them the deep clean with walnut when you get the car, then use the CRC frequently (as its supposed to be used) to keep on top of things.
Do you think using ambro carb and choke cleaner would it be better than crc? By applying it as CRC instructs (spraying it directly on the throttle body) I have a 2014 hyundai gt GDI, thinking on doing some valves cleaning as well, awesome video BTW!
I did try carb cleaner on my old motor and to be honest it was pretty similar. I think the CRC slightly tips the win tho. Something i have learnt recently is how important it is to do the treatments frequently, before it builds up like it was in this motor. Let us know if you do give a crack and the results you get.
I used CRC and some gun brushes - time consuming and not fun at all.... got them pretty clean, but not walnut blast clean.
Also a hell of a mess and usually done on the bench but consider using a spray or even paint on paint stripper. Did I also see a can of gasket stripper at the back of your bench? Give that a go!
If that doesn't work, why not try lemon juice or a nice red wine vinegarette? I have heard that Maggie Beers Verjuice works on everything....... 🤔
I wonder how much of this gets to your valve stem seals and what it does to them as well. When you change them soak a few in the products and find out!?
You should do a review on stove cleaner that stuff is the best
I tried the harbor freight walnut blasting kit. It wasn’t doing anything. The chemical didn’t do anything for me.
Great result and you've done it cheap. You'll have to sell those adapters for the vacuum.
Also, cheap chemical solution. Gasoline! That stuff cleans about anything. I haven't tried e85 yet. But I've seen dirty intake runners become squeaky clean on junkyard ls builds.
Question....assuming you’re doing this with head on the car. That tiny amount of debris left at the very periphery. You can see it when the valve opens, and you could only clean it with the valve ope, but risk some of it going into the cylinder. Do you just leave it alone?
Doesn't cause any problems evidently as the walnut "sand" is softer than any of the parts it can come in contact with. The only downside is your exhaust may smell of walnut for a few minutes as it disposes of the leftovers, that's why they use walnut and not sand. I've recently been quoted $880 to clean EGR and manifolds and valves using walnut blasting on a 2011 Pajero with 177.000k. for interest.
Great video! Appreciate the time you took to make this even though you already knew the walnut blasting would take 10 minutes. LOL. Question though: what size walnut media do you recommend?
Its ordered as fine walnut here. Its about the size of raw sugar. I was genuine curious what the chemical method was like when done on the same level of carbon build up. Definitely not worth wasting your time with in my opinion, go nuts...... :P
@@ZeroTo60Tube 😆 dad jokes👌🏼
@@ZeroTo60Tube I'm with @Luis Lozano, thanks for taking the time, great channel + content. An issue: those great + stronger smells, the use of the blower into the port*, all extra exposed you to chemicals which you won't even think about when you get that C diagnosis....
*if you can't stand to use a baster to empty something (buy a bunch, ~$1.@AUS), you can get a vinyl or acrylic hose, drill a hole in it maybe halfway along, then inset an inflator-needle on a compressor-airgun tool, like the needle used to inflate a basketball. Aim the needle away from the wet stuff, blow some air down the tube toward the drain pan, and it will create low pressure behind it and suck whatever liquid out the tube. Great, safe way to start a fuel siphon. Just stop blowing once flow starts, and keep the high-end submerged.
Time to get a sand blaster 👍 just paid a shop $550 to get this done.
Just make very sure you have the valves closed before you start blasting walnuts. I did this with CRC and thought I did, but they weren't... no big deal with CRC, but very bad with walnuts.
Maybe a weekly spurt of chemical cleaner in your intake manifold, with the engine running, might be enough to ensure you don't need to strip the head and decarbonise?
I think something like that should work.
Did not the CRC want a warm engine not one with the head off
Great content, got my 335 walnut blasted soon as i got it...well after water pump packed up😂, wouldnt trust chemical cleaner must be a chance of disturbing carbon and ending up like e90 engine??? 👍🏴
This is valuable, thank you!
good video .
what size compressor you was using >?
i like the led Ryobi work light
I did mine with CRC.. took 3-4 hrs.. was extremely messy.. results were not the best. I should have picked up the walnut blaster...
I would have used a wetvac to empty the ports of the chemicals. Also I'd like to know how many miles were on the engine to get this bad.
any part numbers for your media blaster setup? tank, nozzle, grade of walnut etc
When you did your first video on Walnut blasting you used a gravity fed walnut hopper/dispenser. It didn't seem to work but you did state that media was the wrong size. Do you think the gravity dispenser and the correct sized media would work? Also what about using soda as a media? Thanks for the videos you are my favorite Automotive channel, always enjoyable to watch :)
I think with the correct media, you would get away with the gravity fed style. I don't think they quite pack the punch of the style i have now, but we're talking 60 seconds of blasting vs 120 seconds. Still a lit quicker than the chemical option.