Thanks for another great review! That chuck went straight to the top of the wishlist, The Clubmans and the SK 114 are great, so tha SK 100 will complete the line... Cheers from Sweden!
Hi again Mike just seen your video on the Axminster SK100 chuck the only size i think i missed was the max diameter for the mortise . I got the tenon as 56mm. I’m living in Bridgend .
Excellent review Mike! Just completed outfitting a new Robust American Beauty lathe with Axminster SK 100 and SK114 chucks. Without a doubt, they are beautifully machined. I love the benefits of stainless-steel construction and their smooth silky operation. Impeccable machining. Their wide array of jaws is also very impressive! Cheers!
Nice review Mike. That locking screw should be labelled the numpty screw! Completely invalidates the prime advantage of Axminster over other some others i.e. changing jaws without dropping small screws into the shavings! great product Axminster, though at only £20 less than the SK114, I probably will not be buying one.
Hi Pete and thanks for your input, always appreciated. Just to point out that if you compare both "packages" of the SK100 and SK114 there is actually a £70 difference. Take care Mike
Mike, it should have been mentioned (in my opinion) that the 'C' jaws require a fairly accurate matching rebate cut into the wood for the lip of the jaws to bed into, particularly on very hard wood. Otherwise, the work is really only held with the grip applied on face of the lip. Get a decent catch and the work is easily dislodged completely or at the very least displaced. Lovely chucks but a bit pricey !!
Thanks for your input Tom, I can only speak from personal experience. Have used the C jaws (among others) since I started turning and have never had that arise, I find that ridge really bits into the wood creating its own "valley". Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@MikeWaldt It's important, is it not to ensure the base of the tenon is square so that it fits flush and true against the shoulder of the jaws, is it not? Forcing that square faced lip into the wood drives the shoulder back away from the base of the tenon. That's if the wood is soft enough to allow it. Or you apply enough brute force to drive them down. I'm no weakling and I don't want to smash my chuck or distort the jaws by apply excessive force on the mechanism. If the lip doesn't sit far enough into the wood, your only hold on the work is the lip itself, with loss of support on the shoulder. The primary function of the inner C jaws is to hold the worm-screw accessory firmly. Using them for a direct grip on wood is a bonus if you like. But, in my opinion a little preparation as described goes a long way to making that grip much more secure. If memory serves correctly, I'm sure there's a video of Colwin Way describing the same procedure, but I could be wrong it may have been someone else. Perhaps Axminster themselves could comment on this.
Great information. Was looking at a similar set this afternoon on display. I was wondering about the faceplate ring and you were very thorough as always!
Glad you found the video helpful. Ideally the tenon depth should be just short of the back of the jaws, and a minimum of half that depth. If however you have a small piece, a shallower tenon will suffice. Hope this answers your question. Thanks again for watching. Cheers. Mike
Hello Mike. Gr8 work. one question. 56 mm but how long is the correct lenth for the tennon? look to be about 5 or 6 mm. I have exactly the same chuck with jaws. Expensive, but, i beleive its the best in the world. thank you
Thank you. It does depend on the size of the piece ... just ensure it is not too long and fouls the jaw base, as you won't get a secure hold. Cheers Mike
Hi Mike, another great video.....i am a fellow turner from Bedfordshire with a problem. I have a very old SIP variable speed lathe. The problem i have is when reversing work between chuck and tail stock it is by no means straight ie boxes with lids from one piece of wood. There is play in the tailstock base. Is there anything to fix this issue, we have tried sitting one side of the tail stock on shims but it is very hit and miss. Just wondering if there is a way squaring it up permanently going forwards.... Many thanks for any help of advice Regards Gary
Hi Gary, apologies for the late response I missed this ... God knows how. I'm afraid I can't offer any.more suggestions than swimming, which is what you're already doing. Where in Bedfordshire are you? Cheers Mike
@@MikeWaldt Hi Mike, many thanks for that reply. I'm over in Sandy. I have found there is also slight play in the head, which is one that swings out for turning huge pieces. I think it needs squaring up with a metal rod in the jaws and then shimming the tail stock to line it up. To be continued i guess. Many thanks Gary
Excellent video. I bought the Clubman with my lathe about 6 months ago. I seem to have difficulty finding the right size drill to make the hole for the wormscrew - what size should I use?
Beautiful chuck and possibly one of the best quality worldwide. But wow you must have deep pockets because you've bought that within days of them releasing it - plus for only £30 more you could have bought yourself the bigger SK114 version which is more appropriate to the size of your lathe
![ARGENTINA vs. CHILE [3-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 7](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/De3AWmXzhuA/mqdefault.jpg)
Love the details ...now I can happily buy this
Glad you found the video of interest SD and thank you for watching.
THANK U MIKE. sound advice.
You're welcome Manjit.
I am a very green beginner… this was very educational for my understanding of this style of chuck…thank you
Glad you found it useful Nelson and thanks for watching.
Thanks for another great review! That chuck went straight to the top of the wishlist, The Clubmans and the SK 114 are great, so tha SK 100 will complete the line... Cheers from Sweden!
Hi Den and thanks for watching and commenting.
Just to add my thanks for sharing. Very interesting video Mike 🌞
Glad you liked the video Mike and thanks for watching.
Nice job.
Thanks Gary.
I always go with teknatool chucks I love there chucks
Each to their own James and thanks for watching.
Hi again Mike just seen your video on the Axminster SK100 chuck the only size i think i missed was the max diameter for the mortise . I got the tenon as 56mm. I’m living in Bridgend .
Hi Clive the recommended mortice size for the "c" jaws is 70mm diameter. Cheers. Mike
Thanks for the review Mike Looks like a nice chuck. Great explanation of the Correct tenon Mortice size
Thanks Brian appreciate you saying that mate.
Great demo Mike. My new toy just arrived today and is waiting for me to get home.
Enjoy Mike 🙂
Excellent review Mike! Just completed outfitting a new Robust American Beauty lathe with Axminster SK 100 and SK114 chucks. Without a doubt, they are beautifully machined. I love the benefits of stainless-steel construction and their smooth silky operation. Impeccable machining. Their wide array of jaws is also very impressive! Cheers!
Hi Glenn I'm glad to hear that you concur with my opinion. Take care.
Nicely explained, Mike. Thanks
Thanks Ward much appreciated my friend.
Excellent review and explaiation Mike!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😎😎😎😎😎
Tank you Alan.
Fantastic review and information on the correct way to use a tenon and a mortice.
Take care Mike.
Hwyl, Huw
Thanks Huw always appreciate you stopping by mate.
Great video Mike very interesting info
Regards
Steve UK London
Thanks Steve much appreciated.
thanks very helpful .
Glad you found the video useful George and thanks for watching.
Excellent review - thank you.
Thank you.
Great review Mike.
Thanks Jack.
Excellently explained Mike
Thanks Gav much appreciated.
Thanks Mike. I would like one of those new chucks but it’s a bit costly these days to get extra stuff!! I’ll have to save my pennies!😜
It'll be worth the wait Nigel I assure you.
Nice review Mike. That locking screw should be labelled the numpty screw! Completely invalidates the prime advantage of Axminster over other some others i.e. changing jaws without dropping small screws into the shavings! great product Axminster, though at only £20 less than the SK114, I probably will not be buying one.
Hi Pete and thanks for your input, always appreciated. Just to point out that if you compare both "packages" of the SK100 and SK114 there is actually a £70 difference.
Take care
Mike
Mike, it should have been mentioned (in my opinion) that the 'C' jaws require a fairly accurate matching rebate cut into the wood for the lip of the jaws to bed into, particularly on very hard wood. Otherwise, the work is really only held with the grip applied on face of the lip. Get a decent catch and the work is easily dislodged completely or at the very least displaced. Lovely chucks but a bit pricey !!
Thanks for your input Tom, I can only speak from personal experience. Have used the C jaws (among others) since I started turning and have never had that arise, I find that ridge really bits into the wood creating its own "valley".
Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@MikeWaldt It's important, is it not to ensure the base of the tenon is square so that it fits flush and true against the shoulder of the jaws, is it not? Forcing that square faced lip into the wood drives the shoulder back away from the base of the tenon. That's if the wood is soft enough to allow it. Or you apply enough brute force to drive them down. I'm no weakling and I don't want to smash my chuck or distort the jaws by apply excessive force on the mechanism. If the lip doesn't sit far enough into the wood, your only hold on the work is the lip itself, with loss of support on the shoulder. The primary function of the inner C jaws is to hold the worm-screw accessory firmly. Using them for a direct grip on wood is a bonus if you like. But, in my opinion a little preparation as described goes a long way to making that grip much more secure. If memory serves correctly, I'm sure there's a video of Colwin Way describing the same procedure, but I could be wrong it may have been someone else. Perhaps Axminster themselves could comment on this.
I totally agree with your comments Tom, much appreciate your in depth explanation.
Great information. Was looking at a similar set this afternoon on display. I was wondering about the faceplate ring and you were very thorough as always!
Glad that you found the video useful Jess and thanks for watching.
excellent video, thank you.
Thank you Ashley.
great video very well explained
Thanks Colin much appreciated.
Enjoyed your video, should a person snug the screws up on the lathe closed with all chucks?
It would be my advice Vern, just to ensure perfect symmetry before the final tightening. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thank you for a very good explanation of a set that is on its way to my workshop. What o you find is the perfect depth of a tenon in mm?
Glad you found the video helpful. Ideally the tenon depth should be just short of the back of the jaws, and a minimum of half that depth. If however you have a small piece, a shallower tenon will suffice. Hope this answers your question. Thanks again for watching. Cheers. Mike
Hello Mike. Gr8 work. one question. 56 mm but how long is the correct lenth for the tennon? look to be about 5 or 6 mm. I have exactly the same chuck with jaws. Expensive, but, i beleive its the best in the world. thank you
Thank you. It does depend on the size of the piece ... just ensure it is not too long and fouls the jaw base, as you won't get a secure hold.
Cheers
Mike
Hi Mike, another great video.....i am a fellow turner from Bedfordshire with a problem. I have a very old SIP variable speed lathe. The problem i have is when reversing work between chuck and tail stock it is by no means straight ie boxes with lids from one piece of wood. There is play in the tailstock base. Is there anything to fix this issue, we have tried sitting one side of the tail stock on shims but it is very hit and miss. Just wondering if there is a way squaring it up permanently going forwards.... Many thanks for any help of advice Regards Gary
Hi Gary, apologies for the late response I missed this ... God knows how.
I'm afraid I can't offer any.more suggestions than swimming, which is what you're already doing. Where in Bedfordshire are you?
Cheers
Mike
@@MikeWaldt Hi Mike, many thanks for that reply. I'm over in Sandy. I have found there is also slight play in the head, which is one that swings out for turning huge pieces. I think it needs squaring up with a metal rod in the jaws and then shimming the tail stock to line it up. To be continued i guess. Many thanks Gary
Excellent video. I bought the Clubman with my lathe about 6 months ago. I seem to have difficulty finding the right size drill to make the hole for the wormscrew - what size should I use?
Thanks John, I normally use a 7mm drill bit ... but it does depend on the wood. Thanks for watching.
Beautiful chuck and possibly one of the best quality worldwide. But wow you must have deep pockets because you've bought that within days of them releasing it - plus for only £30 more you could have bought yourself the bigger SK114 version which is more appropriate to the size of your lathe
Hi Phil I am very lucky in that I wad sent the chuck to review.
@@MikeWaldt not luck - you work hard 'filming' and editing your turning projects and product promos, sponsorship is a fair quid-pro-quo.
I appreciate you saying that Phil.
Half way thru the video and I’m wondering what you are going to make out of that spalted piece of wood you rested the chuck on!
I must add, this was the finest explanation of tenon sizing I have seen. Good job!
Lol ... and thank you much appreciated.