Finally i said goodbay to my old and ugly shooting board. To make the new one i choosed oak countertop as the base and solid piece of beech wood for the stop block. I used tapered sliding dovetail join to set the the stop block precisely. The taper angle is about 2 degrees. Please notice that the base have a fance along the grain, wich is holding the plane perfectly in the rail. Without it you can forgot about shooting thick material. Simple classic design without any fireworks. If you have any questions just leave the comment. Cheers!
Very sleek, minimalist build produces simple, but not simplistic, beauty. And I love it! I’m going to have to build one of those, Stavros! Thanks, as always.
If I weren’t rebuilding our house I would be building some new tools like this excellent shooting board. I must confess that my current shooting board has been used as a saw hook as well. It was never a thing of beauty but is worse for wear now. I am currently doing the trim work for the doors and windows in a late art nouveau style. I did a cabinet in this style a decade and a half ago. I will send you a photo of it. Greetings from the high plains of Texas.
Meanwhile I'm here just letting my shavings collect on the floor and picking them up with my bad knees and back. 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️ Great tip😂😂 love your work, I wish I was half as talented.
Brilliant as always Stavros :) I like the way you can set the fence in the sliding dovetail so you can always have the fence backing up the work piece. I cut from both sides of the wood, a little "chamfer" on one side, then flip it around and plane to the chamfer...... I like your method better :)
Excellent video! I need to pay attention to both my plane I use for shooting on my shooting board and the board itself :) Thanks for inspiration as always!
Love your work. Thanks for providing detailed information us lessor talented woodworkers can use. :) If you take requests, how about making a compass plane? I don't believe that is a very common tool, at least from what I can find, but it definitely solves the problem of curved surfaces. Anyway, thanks again!
That's a bit of a trickster. You must be real amateur, because it would be nigh on impossible to make one- they are so complex. You can find second-hand ones on the net. Just search. I bet you're one of those people that, no matter how much someone gives you, you'll always ask for more. Just consider yourself lucky to have landed on this fantastic channel. Barrel makers used to have various radius wooden planes. They started out as flat planes, and were given the radius according to needs. Just like Stavros, I have a Stanley (one of the first ever made- circa 1882) and I can tell you that they're pretty tricky to use. They don't have the same stability as a full cast iron sole, because the sole is in sheet metal. They look very pretty though; good wall decoration.
Clamping the parts wouldnt work very efficiently...... every pass you make of the plane you would have to unclamp and clamp it up again....... the hand holding the part is also feeding it into the plane :)
Thanks! Sometimes i just want to do something without recording, it was that kind of project. Yes, i'm gonna prepare different angles stops, that's the plan 👍
Twoje sprzęty są tak kozackie że gdyby były odpowiednio większe to można by na nich produkować forniry😉👌 P.S.wiem że to nie w Twoim stylu ale za przykladnicą można by zamontować sprężynę która by odbijała strug ,po cięciu przyspieszając jego powrót i oszczędzając siły ułatwiała pracę takim "klocem". Pozdrawiam
A w zasadzie to zbieżność wprowadza się tylko po jednej stronie płetwy? W sensie, że np. od strony zderzaka jest prosto, a z tyłu właśnie zbieżnie? Robiłem w ten sposób mały regał, dopiero po fakcie zacząłem się dokształcać, no i tak by mi to pasowało na logikę🙂
Tak, tylko po jednej stronie. Strona od zderzaka trzyma kąt prosty. Dzięki temu rozwiązaniu można precyzyjnie regulować szczelinę pomiędzy zderzakiem a strugiem, wystarczy kilka uderzeń pobijakiem :)
I love what you’ve done with this. But I have an idea/question: what if the skewed blade was on the back 1/3 of the plane instead of the front third. This would allow more forward speed/momentum for woods that don’t plane easily. My problem using a shooting board is pulling back too far and the piece jumps in front of the toe of the plane.
You make amazing planes, and the videos are fun and very interesting to watch, repeatedly. What is the make of the large angle protractor and where can one get one? You have a lot of pear, beech, boxwood, and other interestion species. Are these readily available where you are, and where would one get these in the U. S.? Fantastic work!! Please keep sharing.
Hi Stavros, I have to say, truly amazing and precise work! I hope that you don't mind me asking but I was wondering where you get all your designs from, would it be a book, ( if so I would love to know the title) old tools, or both? I am a joiner and Intend to make myself a set of wooden planes. There are always some details of each design that could save time and unnecessary mistakes. I particularly love the way that this plane cuts! Thank you. Regards, Kevin.
Hi Kevin, There is a book about plane making. I have it, but it's packed in crates for the moment. So please forgive me for not remembering the author's name. You should be able to find it on the net. I remember having purchased it at LeeValley Tools in Canada- today one of the world's finest woodworking sites, if not literally the best. Remember, they're the ones who design and build Veritas tools. The secret ( I know through knowledge, but not through experience) that angles are THE big secret; one degree out, and your jointer will simply "not work".) Our friend here, Stavros, is something of a genius. He's really gifted, and he can (and does) build a precision tool entirely by hand. It might be wise by staring to "take apart" a golden oldie that's gone past it. Take measurements, angles, depths, and so on. Try to get a blank of really old seasoned beech, or pear. Square it on all four edges to just oversize (1/8") and leave for at least three months. Stability. When at first bringing down to size, try to remove the equivalent amounts from all four faces (this will help stability tremendously). Do NOT use a circular saw!! Use a bandsaw with a wide blade. Cut very slowly. Stability again. The grain direction on end grain should be as perpendicular as possible to the sole- in this way your new tool won't "move" (twist and wind). I'm a linseed oil fanatic, so I would say once all the machining has been complete, soak the structure in a bath of linseed oil- 50% turps for a few weeks. Then make sure you have at least one great, great, great grandson to pass it on to! Wishing you the best of British, and hope you find knowledge and inspiration in your new adventure. Stay safe. God bless. Greetings from France, Ralph
I have only just seen this message for some reason! Thank you so much for your time ,effort and advice. I now have a book and am in the process of building my planes. Thanks again . Kevin.
interesting. I have used simoniz classic car wax with carnauba (not sure this known outside the UK) to give a slick finish on wood and also reduce rust on metal parts. love your work please keep posting.
Dziękuję bardzo za polecenie Łukasza, świetnie się uzupelniacie jeden milczący arcymistrz i drugi nie gorszy ale wszystko wyjasniajacy.Czy są jakieś inne kanały godne polecenia?
Jestem zachwycony tym, jak traktujesz drewno, z jaką precyzją wykonujesz detale. Artyzm. Czy prowadzisz, albo planujesz prowadzić warsztaty, może w wakacje?
@@petersydow4002 nie to miałem na myśli. Przy bardzo dużej wilgotności może wejść rdza, ale nie musi. Trudno jednoznacznie stwierdzić czy tak się stanie.
Daję łapkę w górę na zachętę, ale jeszcze musisz troszkę nad nią popracować! Na ostatnim ujęciu widać, że nie wszystkie strużyny wpadają do kosza. Jak już zrobisz poprawioną wersję, to mogę Ci pomóc pozbyć się tej. :)
I have a dumb question: Apart from the added complexity of adding a metal sole to your planes, why dont you include that feature on more of your planes? It seems like a great solution to the problem of sole wear or the widening of the mouth of the plane as the sole is repeatedly re-flattened. Is the strike block solution less complex? Anyway, I love your work. I hope to one day approach your skill. Thank you for your work!
So cool! I dream of being able to shoot material that thick! .. I struggle with anything thicker than about 15mm ... I'm rubbish :( .... Can I ask how much that plane weighs? and how much of a difference you think the weight makes? or is it all about the blade?
The steel in that plane is going to be 3-4 Kilo if its 10mm thick (it looked about that on the build) + wood and blade ... I think a sharp skewed blade is the real secret though, the cut is gradual feeding in rather than the whole blade engaging at once (which is especially nice on end grain), the weight just allows for the momentum to carry it through rather than you having to significantly adding more pushing force. Stavros can correct me re the weight :)
Thanks! As i wrote in the description you can forgot about shooting fat stock when your shooting board don't have a fence wich keep the plane perfectly on the rail 🙂
Nie wiem czym sie Pan zajmuje ale sadze ze nie wyrobem narzedzi stolarskich. Mam nadzieje ,ze jest pan ekspertem od renowacji mebli w jakims znanym muzeum albo prowadzi Pan kursy stolarstwa. Bo jesli nie, to szkoda tej cennej wiedzy jaka Pan chociaz w czesci przekazuje na filmikach . Pozdrawiami zycze zdrowia i setek tysiecy fanow Panskiego talentu. P.S. Kazdy kto trzymal strug w rekach wie jak trudna jest precyzyjna obrobka drewna w poprzek slojow. Pan po prostu udawadnia ,ze niemozliwe jest mozliwe. Ciekawe jak struga sie w ten sposob miekkie i nie calkiem suche drewno ?
Dziękuję! Zajmuję się czymś zupełnie innym, ale pracuję nad tym żeby za jakiś czas zająć się produkcją narzędzi i prowadzeniem kursów z nimi związanych. W poprzek włókien najlepiej struga się zwarte i twarde gatunki, najgorsza jest sosna bo różnica twardości pomiędzy przyrostami letnimii i zimowymi jest znaczna. Ale to nie znaczy, że nie daje się ostrugać :) mokrego nie strugami. Pozdrowienia!
@@StavrosGakos Tak wlasnie myslalem , ze miekkie moze byc trudniejsze w obrobce. Super ,ze byc moze mysli Pan aby znalezc inwestora na fabryke "high endowych" strugow. W czasach CNC jest coraz wiecej bogatych maniakow gotowych kupic strugi , ktorymi w wolnych chwilach beda budowac szafki na kije golfowe czy budy dla Chow- Chow. Zartuje z tymi snobami ale goscie budujacy jachty z mahoniu wzdychaja pewnie za takim super sprzetem . P.S. Pewne rozwiazania powienien Pan opatentowac wg mnie.
Sir I have a request to you Sir please make a video on flotes and abutment cuting saw Because it's very importent for me I can't by this type of tool in 🇮🇳 indiea and I am not fully understand and teached to how I make So please sir make a video on it 😊 I hope 🤔you make 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Stavros, We haven’t seen a video from you since 4 months ago. My fear is that you’ve joined the military forces in your area to fight the Russians. I’m praying for you and your family. Bill from The USA.
Finally i said goodbay to my old and ugly shooting board. To make the new one i choosed oak countertop as the base and solid piece of beech wood for the stop block.
I used tapered sliding dovetail join to set the the stop block precisely. The taper angle is about 2 degrees.
Please notice that the base have a fance along the grain, wich is holding the plane perfectly in the rail. Without it you can forgot about shooting thick material.
Simple classic design without any fireworks.
If you have any questions just leave the comment.
Cheers!
New video!? Please
My guilty confession: I would immediately try to use it to slice garlic.
Very nice, clean and simple, yet effective solution. Love it!
Thanks Rane🙂
Now that is impressive for today, not much of that around anymore. I appreciate the accuracy and precision of the tools, well done
Very sleek, minimalist build produces simple, but not simplistic, beauty. And I love it! I’m going to have to build one of those, Stavros! Thanks, as always.
You're welcome Russ!
Hey Russ, your set is ready. Please write me back on Instagram 🙂
Mr. Gakos is absolutely awesome!!!
If I were a woodworker,
I'd buy and collect all of his plans!!
Hey, if you are interested i got few leather strops for sale. Photos and more info on my Instagram. Cheers!
I have a chunk of maple butcherblock that is just perfect for this! Thanks for the idea
I really wish you’d make more videos. You are so talented, I wish you’d document every one of your projects.
If I weren’t rebuilding our house I would be building some new tools like this excellent shooting board. I must confess that my current shooting board has been used as a saw hook as well. It was never a thing of beauty but is worse for wear now. I am currently doing the trim work for the doors and windows in a late art nouveau style. I did a cabinet in this style a decade and a half ago. I will send you a photo of it.
Greetings from the high plains of Texas.
Perfect workpiece geometry. Thank you!!!
Looks brilliant 👍 I especially liked the collection bin. Fantastic work.
Nic dodać nic ująć. Prostota jest zawsze genialna w swojej formie. Rafał Bąk
Awesome shooting board! I bet the dovetail makes the fence super strong and stable!
Simple but very effective. Good job.
Brilliant!! It's so simple it's just brilliant.
Man, you are truly good!
This is a monster of a shooting board
Always glad to see a new video from you. Best plane maker on the web.
Meanwhile I'm here just letting my shavings collect on the floor and picking them up with my bad knees and back. 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️ Great tip😂😂 love your work, I wish I was half as talented.
Loved this!
Idzie gładko jak kapusta na szatkownicy! Toż to jakaś siła nieczysta :)
Dark magic indeed.
Is Stavros a dark magician?
Brilliant as always Stavros :) I like the way you can set the fence in the sliding dovetail so you can always have the fence backing up the work piece. I cut from both sides of the wood, a little "chamfer" on one side, then flip it around and plane to the chamfer...... I like your method better :)
👍👍👍
Excellent work 👍👍👍 . Thanks for sharing
Excellent video! I need to pay attention to both my plane I use for shooting on my shooting board and the board itself :) Thanks for inspiration as always!
You're welcome Michał :)
Oh I love the automatic trash bin collection!!!!
Me encanta ese cepillo, el tamaño, la combinación con metal, el ángulo de la cuchilla...
Simplicity at its best.
Мастер класс,,, Мастер номер один 👍👍👍🇹🇷🙏
Nice clean shop!
Thanks!
Very nice!
Браво! потрясающе!
It looks great!! Looking forward to your next project!
Enjoyed your video and I gave it a Thumbs Up
excellent work - po prostu zlota raczka
jak zwykle świetna robota 👍 👍
Love your work. Thanks for providing detailed information us lessor talented woodworkers can use. :)
If you take requests, how about making a compass plane? I don't believe that is a very common tool, at least from what I can find, but it definitely solves the problem of curved surfaces.
Anyway, thanks again!
Thanks! I have Stanley no 113 so i don't need wooden compass plane :) Cheers!
That's a bit of a trickster. You must be real amateur, because it would be nigh on impossible to make one- they are so complex. You can find second-hand ones on the net. Just search. I bet you're one of those people that, no matter how much someone gives you, you'll always ask for more. Just consider yourself lucky to have landed on this fantastic channel.
Barrel makers used to have various radius wooden planes. They started out as flat planes, and were given the radius according to needs.
Just like Stavros, I have a Stanley (one of the first ever made- circa 1882) and I can tell you that they're pretty tricky to use. They don't have the same stability as a full cast iron sole, because the sole is in sheet metal. They look very pretty though; good wall decoration.
Awesome!!!
Hope you’re well with the craziness next door
Wióry nie trociny idealnie nadają się jako wyściółka do budek lęgowych dla ptaków . Wymieniać trzeba co rok . Takie moje skojarzenie jako leśnika.
Excellent.
How the plane just slid across the shooting board... Nice.
Excellent!
Amazing work, man! 😃
I really need to build one as well!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
thanx so much for video Stavros! i hope to maybe try my hand at making a shooting plane like your soon. cheers from scary Gary Indiana USA !
Thanks Gary! Cheers :)
Loveee it!
Thanks boss for this video ❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️
Great dust extraction system. Do you ever clamp the pieces to the fence? Or is just holding it by hand always enough?
Thanks, i just hold them👍
Clamping the parts wouldnt work very efficiently...... every pass you make of the plane you would have to unclamp and clamp it up again....... the hand holding the part is also feeding it into the plane :)
@@whittysworkshop982 Thanks, that makes sense.
That is quite a nice dust extractor you have there.🤣🤣🤣
Looks great! Simple and effective 👌
Did you consider adding 45° stop?
Did you film the build process?
Thanks! Sometimes i just want to do something without recording, it was that kind of project. Yes, i'm gonna prepare different angles stops, that's the plan 👍
Great!
Twoje sprzęty są tak kozackie że gdyby były odpowiednio większe to można by na nich produkować forniry😉👌
P.S.wiem że to nie w Twoim stylu ale za przykladnicą można by zamontować sprężynę która by odbijała strug ,po cięciu przyspieszając jego powrót i oszczędzając siły ułatwiała pracę takim "klocem". Pozdrawiam
Dzięki, nie ma takiej potrzeby 👍
Eccellente!!
Sweet
Hey Patrick :)
A w zasadzie to zbieżność wprowadza się tylko po jednej stronie płetwy? W sensie, że np. od strony zderzaka jest prosto, a z tyłu właśnie zbieżnie? Robiłem w ten sposób mały regał, dopiero po fakcie zacząłem się dokształcać, no i tak by mi to pasowało na logikę🙂
Tak, tylko po jednej stronie. Strona od zderzaka trzyma kąt prosty. Dzięki temu rozwiązaniu można precyzyjnie regulować szczelinę pomiędzy zderzakiem a strugiem, wystarczy kilka uderzeń pobijakiem :)
👏
I love what you’ve done with this. But I have an idea/question: what if the skewed blade was on the back 1/3 of the plane instead of the front third. This would allow more forward speed/momentum for woods that don’t plane easily.
My problem using a shooting board is pulling back too far and the piece jumps in front of the toe of the plane.
hey, try to use bigger plane, that should solve the problem :)
Ви унiкальнi. Чекаю нових ...
You make amazing planes, and the videos are fun and very interesting to watch, repeatedly. What is the make of the large angle protractor and where can one get one? You have a lot of pear, beech, boxwood, and other interestion species. Are these readily available where you are, and where would one get these in the U. S.? Fantastic work!! Please keep sharing.
Hey George! It was simple no name angle protractor. I have no idea, sorry :)
@@StavrosGakos Thank you.
I should get a plane good as yours first. 😄
Excellent travail, comme d'habitude.
Dommage de ne pas avoir montré l'usinage des pièces.
Prenez soin de vous. A bientôt
👍👍👍👍
Nice! Bummed it’s only 3 minutes. How long until you stop using a sacrificial block of wood to set the stop block?
Haha ;) thank you Donna!
Hey Donna, your set is ready. Please write me back on Instagram :)
Hi Stavros, I have to say, truly amazing and precise work! I hope that you don't mind me asking but I was wondering where you get all your designs from, would it be a book, ( if so I would love to know the title) old tools, or both? I am a joiner and Intend to make myself a set of wooden planes. There are always some details of each design that could save time and unnecessary mistakes. I particularly love the way that this plane cuts! Thank you. Regards, Kevin.
Hey Kevin, classic design is alway the key 👍 thanks a lot!
Hi Kevin,
There is a book about plane making. I have it, but it's packed in crates for the moment. So please forgive me for not remembering the author's name. You should be able to find it on the net. I remember having purchased it at LeeValley Tools in Canada- today one of the world's finest woodworking sites, if not literally the best. Remember, they're the ones who design and build Veritas tools.
The secret ( I know through knowledge, but not through experience) that angles are THE big secret; one degree out, and your jointer will simply "not work".)
Our friend here, Stavros, is something of a genius. He's really gifted, and he can (and does) build a precision tool entirely by hand.
It might be wise by staring to "take apart" a golden oldie that's gone past it. Take measurements, angles, depths, and so on. Try to get a blank of really old seasoned beech, or pear. Square it on all four edges to just oversize (1/8") and leave for at least three months. Stability. When at first bringing down to size, try to remove the equivalent amounts from all four faces (this will help stability tremendously). Do NOT use a circular saw!! Use a bandsaw with a wide blade. Cut very slowly. Stability again. The grain direction on end grain should be as perpendicular as possible to the sole- in this way your new tool won't "move" (twist and wind).
I'm a linseed oil fanatic, so I would say once all the machining has been complete, soak the structure in a bath of linseed oil- 50% turps for a few weeks.
Then make sure you have at least one great, great, great grandson to pass it on to!
Wishing you the best of British, and hope you find knowledge and inspiration in your new adventure.
Stay safe. God bless.
Greetings from France,
Ralph
I have only just seen this message for some reason! Thank you so much for your time ,effort and advice.
I now have a book and am in the process of building my planes.
Thanks again .
Kevin.
machine-gun Stavros! Long time watcher First time commenter. Is it just wax for the smooth action?
Hello! Only candle👍
interesting. I have used simoniz classic car wax with carnauba (not sure this known outside the UK) to give a slick finish on wood and also reduce rust on metal parts. love your work please keep posting.
I was waiting for something to be done from planed blocks, but the video suddenly cut off.
With love from Russia!
That was another set of dovetail markers. I made them in video no 060 :) Cheers!
@@StavrosGakos, I showed video #60 to my brother, and he printed them for me on a plastic printer.
Is there a video of building your workbench? I would like to see it.
Hey, only a few posts on my Instagram profile
I miss your videos. It has been a long time since you posted a new one.
Love your videos, could you please tell me where you purchase your wood please?
Thanks, i have mamy sources
@@StavrosGakos By your answer I guess you wish to keep your sources secret and that is your perogative . Thank you
@@berniken6511 it's not a secret, but what can i write to you if almost all my sources are disposable. Cheers
Dziękuję bardzo za polecenie Łukasza, świetnie się uzupelniacie jeden milczący arcymistrz i drugi nie gorszy ale wszystko wyjasniajacy.Czy są jakieś inne kanały godne polecenia?
Nie ma za co :) jest ich bardzo dużo, niestety nie mam teraz na tyle czasu żeby wszystkie wymienić. Pozdrawiam
Jestem zachwycony tym, jak traktujesz drewno, z jaką precyzją wykonujesz detale. Artyzm.
Czy prowadzisz, albo planujesz prowadzić warsztaty, może w wakacje?
Dziękuję! Planuję warsztaty, ale najwcześniej w 2023 lub 2024. Obserwuj profil na instagramie, tam pojawi się informacja :) pozdrowienia!
Jak zwykle świetnie! Czy Presto Gun Blue zapobiega rdzy?
Dzięki! Tak, zapobiega ale nie w 100 procentach, wszystko zależy od wilgotności i temperatury w warsztacie. Pozdrawiam
@@StavrosGakos To znaczy chyba ,że jak jest bardzo wilgotno to nie jest skuteczne.Bardzo dziękuję za poradę.
@@petersydow4002 nie to miałem na myśli. Przy bardzo dużej wilgotności może wejść rdza, ale nie musi. Trudno jednoznacznie stwierdzić czy tak się stanie.
@@StavrosGakos Dziękuję.
Molto bello, si possono sapere le misure del blocco pialla? Grazie
Thanks, 350/67/60
Daję łapkę w górę na zachętę, ale jeszcze musisz troszkę nad nią popracować! Na ostatnim ujęciu widać, że nie wszystkie strużyny wpadają do kosza. Jak już zrobisz poprawioną wersję, to mogę Ci pomóc pozbyć się tej. :)
Dzięki! Nie musisz mnie zachęcać:) Kadr nie łapał drugiego mniejszego kosza który przechwytywał pozostałe strużyny 👌
Będzie nowy filmik? , ciekaw mnie robienie heblów czy strugów oraz dłut.
Witam, będzie
Do you really work in a room so clean or is this for the purpose of filming?
I'm trying to clean the floor around my workbench everyday. Next month i'm gonna bought big dust collector so it will be much easier 👍
Nice one, Stavros. Will you be adding a movable fence for angles in the future?
Thanks! For sure👍
Short and sweet. Done a grand job there Stavros. I wasn't expecting that one. Any future projects planned?
Thanks Paul! I have a lot of plans but the main for this year is another shop for metalworks, i got second room about 15m2 🙂
Looking forward to seeing some metalworking!
@@StavrosGakos nice. I sense some more infill planes on the horizon.
@@pmewUK you know me good ;)
Haven't heard from you for a while, hope you are safe and well, I miss your posts, greetings from Wales.
Hey Simon! I'm good, thank you :) New video today so stay tuned :) Cheers!
I have a dumb question: Apart from the added complexity of adding a metal sole to your planes, why dont you include that feature on more of your planes? It seems like a great solution to the problem of sole wear or the widening of the mouth of the plane as the sole is repeatedly re-flattened. Is the strike block solution less complex? Anyway, I love your work. I hope to one day approach your skill. Thank you for your work!
So cool! I dream of being able to shoot material that thick! .. I struggle with anything thicker than about 15mm ... I'm rubbish :( .... Can I ask how much that plane weighs? and how much of a difference you think the weight makes? or is it all about the blade?
The steel in that plane is going to be 3-4 Kilo if its 10mm thick (it looked about that on the build) + wood and blade ... I think a sharp skewed blade is the real secret though, the cut is gradual feeding in rather than the whole blade engaging at once (which is especially nice on end grain), the weight just allows for the momentum to carry it through rather than you having to significantly adding more pushing force. Stavros can correct me re the weight :)
Thanks! As i wrote in the description you can forgot about shooting fat stock when your shooting board don't have a fence wich keep the plane perfectly on the rail 🙂
💪🤗
Damn! He even has a bin to catch the shavings. What can I say?
Fajne!
Nie wiem czym sie Pan zajmuje ale sadze ze nie wyrobem narzedzi stolarskich. Mam nadzieje ,ze jest pan ekspertem od renowacji mebli w jakims znanym muzeum albo prowadzi Pan kursy stolarstwa. Bo jesli nie, to szkoda tej cennej wiedzy jaka Pan chociaz w czesci przekazuje na filmikach . Pozdrawiami zycze zdrowia i setek tysiecy fanow Panskiego talentu.
P.S. Kazdy kto trzymal strug w rekach wie jak trudna jest precyzyjna obrobka drewna w poprzek slojow.
Pan po prostu udawadnia ,ze niemozliwe jest mozliwe. Ciekawe jak struga sie w ten sposob miekkie i nie calkiem suche drewno ?
Dziękuję! Zajmuję się czymś zupełnie innym, ale pracuję nad tym żeby za jakiś czas zająć się produkcją narzędzi i prowadzeniem kursów z nimi związanych. W poprzek włókien najlepiej struga się zwarte i twarde gatunki, najgorsza jest sosna bo różnica twardości pomiędzy przyrostami letnimii i zimowymi jest znaczna. Ale to nie znaczy, że nie daje się ostrugać :) mokrego nie strugami. Pozdrowienia!
@@StavrosGakos Tak wlasnie myslalem , ze miekkie moze byc trudniejsze w obrobce.
Super ,ze byc moze mysli Pan aby znalezc inwestora na fabryke "high endowych" strugow. W czasach CNC jest coraz wiecej bogatych maniakow gotowych kupic strugi , ktorymi w wolnych chwilach beda budowac szafki na kije golfowe czy budy dla Chow- Chow. Zartuje z tymi snobami ale goscie budujacy jachty z mahoniu wzdychaja pewnie za takim super sprzetem .
P.S. Pewne rozwiazania powienien Pan opatentowac wg mnie.
Sir I have a request to you
Sir please make a video on flotes and abutment cuting saw
Because it's very importent for me
I can't by this type of tool in 🇮🇳 indiea and I am not fully understand and teached to how I make
So please sir make a video on it 😊
I hope 🤔you make 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
i have a 1930s 18'' long 4'' wide Mathieson Shooting almost the same your one
Sorki nie wiem co zrobiłeś na tym filmiku bo widziałem tylko strzelający samolot 😁😆😆😉🤘❤
😀👍👋👋👋👋👋💯💥💥💥
I want one
How much would you charge to make me one of these? I'm serious, I'd buy one.
Hey, i don't have a time for it. Sorry
Algorithm comment
Stavros, We haven’t seen a video from you since 4 months ago. My fear is that you’ve joined the military forces in your area to fight the Russians. I’m praying for you and your family. Bill from The USA.
Hey Bill, don't worry - everything is ok, but for some time i have to focus on other things than video's. Beat regards!
😮😮😮😮 de quevas ztiooooo😂😂
Hi., please have a look at your paypal account.
Hallo Stavros, you still using your Narex chisels ?
👍👍👍