I agree with D Clark; this is one of the best shooting board videos on RUclips. I love the simplicity of the board and easy of making adjustments when they become out of true.
Wow! This is one of the BEST FW videos yet! I've been using shooting boards for 45 years and this guy showed me some new tricks! Tim Rousseau... You ROCK!
Great shooting boards. Very versatile, tunable, and adjustable. Shooting board fences are sacrificial in nature and I like the way your SB takes that into consideration, no Glued/screwed fence. The fence is quickly flushed each time you take it out for use.
I have soon so many examples of shooting boards BUT yours is without a doubt the very BEST I have seen. I have long learned by experience that often times the most complicated and of fancy is not always the best and in fact is usually not good at all in the long run. The simplest is often the best for a multitude of reasons. Funny how this happened because I'm going into my shop tomorrow to make a new shooting board and having seen your video I'm going to make m,y new shooting board in the same design as you have shown here with perhaps some changes in dimensions in this video. BRAVO! I am so glad I saw this video before I made my new one.
This was asked a couple of times here so I'll try to answer it: the reason the plane does not continually take shavings off of the edge of the shooting board is because the blade does not extend the full width of the plane sole. There is about 1/4" at the bottom of the edge of the board that does not get planed away and keeps the sole of the plane at a fixed distance (the amount the blade is extended) from the rest of the edge. In other words if you look at the profile of the edge it will be L-shaped.
I'm amazed every day with the ease with which one can pick up new knowledge. Back in the day you'd have to spend years apprenticing to pick up a tenth of what's available just on RUclips. Just wow. Maybe someday I'll actually build something with all of this new found knowledge :P
Before you use your plane on a shooting board, make sure to break the edge on the side of the iron. That thing can be quite sharp. I learned this the hard way when I noticed my hand was bleeding after pushing my plane with my hand on on top of it. You can also put a strip of tape on the exposed edge.
One possible improvement could be to miter the left end of the block on both corners. Use this end when you want to shoot miters. You won't have to measure for 45 as the one mitered corner will butt up against the stop leaving the other corner exactly at 45 and flush with the bottom board. Hope you know what I mean?
I'm really jazzed to make one of these. The idea of more interchangeable parts fence wise is interesting. My question is what is the height of the "thin strip" that is "let in" as the fixed base that the fence rides on? Talking about planing 1/8" stock against it makes it sound really really thin. Is there a particular species of wood you recommend for this? It seems like this would be the weak ling in this aparatus--is it glued down or is it also a friction fit? To my inexpert eye it seems like one would want to be able to replace that piece.
Props for the vid! It finally helped me figure out something I was stuck with. I haven't started with Hyezmar's Woodworking Bible yet, but I googled and downloaded the book. Looks fun too!
Really good video. My first shooting board, made yesterday, was glued and screwed together. And besides that it was rubbish! I'm going to have another go, and copy this design!
This video is outstanding, Its simple and too the point, perfect for my needs. I 'm sick of storing all the stuff you should make for your shop. Can I also add a drop of water to the wood when shooting a 45 on the board. Thanks great job
I use a shooting board daily. I like the # 6 since it is the heaviest of the 3. Also use a very shallow cut, tight mouth and blade edge is square to length of blade. But in reality any of the 3 will work. Make sure the side of the plane is at 90 degrees to the sole.
So in example 3 where you want to butt 2 boards together, what prevents the handheld boards from being planed convex or concave that always happens to me.
if I understand your question, I think that's an issue with the blade "geometry" ie, it ain't flat enough! Also, double check the "shelf" the plane is riding on. If it's not EXACTLY 90* you could get some weird results. If it's measuring right, but, you're getting bad results, check with a second square. I had a square at 88* (plus or minus)....
Thanks! Some interesting and original ideas, here. I have used a shooting-board for about 40 years, and wouldn't be able to work without it. You cannot function as a woodworker without one. (Unless you are just a machinist, of course.)
The key is to build for the suit of your purposes and environment. The work shop I work out of is also an anything fab shop so it had to be useful on a variety of work benches/tables of different heights, and had to be extra long for the drawer faces I need to join. Its not the easiest to work with for both reasons and isn't pretty, but it works and works well. It requires indexing the work against the plane sole on the bottom edge, and because the base is a 1/32 higher than the plane track, the iron leaves a 1/32 lip on the bottom edge (easy enough to deal with). The only problem I actually care about is how these types of tools confine the contact surface of the plane, wearing out that specific area of the iron requiring higher sharpening frequency. I may make a screw adjustable base rise to change the angle of the work to make use of the entire iron surface, but it will do for what I need now.
Could someone tell me what that clamp/vise looking object was on the bench at the start with the more conventional looking shooting boards? I have seen one in a local second hand shop but the only thing the owner could tell me was that it's some kind of woodworking contraption. If I knew it's particular use I might just need to have one in my workspace. Thanks
Jonto Dickens The one on the left at 0:05? I'm not sure, and I've never seen it before, but it looks like a cross between a donkey's ear shooting board and a clamp. You could clamp your work between the two jaws. If you had an irregular piece, it wouldn't sit well in a normal donkey's ear board. Like this, you could place something irregular or thick in the jaws, and then register your chisel along the rail and do work on your piece. I might be wrong, but maybe you could test it out at that shop.
If I understand your question, you would use your bench as the surface that the plane rides on. If that bothered you then you could put down a protective sheet. ie., MDF. plywood, etc...
pinkiewerewolf My question is. Does the plane bite into the plywood that is the base of the SB? Or can you easily figure out when you are close, and don't continually take bits of the SB off when you are shooting another board?
+Howard Springsteen A regular bench plane is wider than the blade. The narrow bit of the sole that's to the right side of the blade rubs against the base plate of the shooting board and stops the plane from continuing to cut deeper. The blade removes a rabbit that's only as deep as the blade extends from the sole.
I like this! I'll need to glue a bottom piece of ply wider than the top piece instead of running the plane on the bench. My bench is less than a smooth even surface.
This should be obvious to me, but the block you're using for the fence here is walnut - is that correct? I've tried building one of the more traditional shooting board versions with a glued oak fence and I had trouble taking shavings off the end grain with that when I was first getting it setup.
The appearance of the end grain at: 3:24 looks regular enough that the block could be plywood? I'm curious if there's any advantage to using solid wood for that block vs. something laminated? You can edge plane both (to flush/square), no?
+wingwalker007 If the blade of the plane went to the edge of the plane you would but since there is a shoulder there it will only plane into a little bit of the bottom board. Once the edge of the plane bottoms out on the lip of the bottom board it will not plane deeper into that board.
Ah, so the primary "base" board starts thicker than the shoulder width between the iron and the edge of the plane, leading the shooting board to have a step where it's tuned to a particular plane? I'm just starting out and that was bugging me to death. But that makes sense.
Anyone else realizing the same thing, right *after* you master sharpening, rub a little candle wax across your plane’s sole (and side if using a shooting board). Be warned that this makes the actual motion of planing *so* much easier that you might not be as motivated to master sharpening, or keep your blade as sharp.
@ TKARLMANN: The only type of plane you would use on the shooting board is one that has a "closed" mouth, meaning any plane that is NOT designed to cut rebates or shoulders where the blade goes to the VERY EDGE of the side of the plane (an "open" mouth). What happens is when the shooting board is used for the very first time the plane blade will indeed cut into the side of the shooting board BUT and here's the important bit - it will only do so where blade touches wood, where the blade mouth "closed" sides are (the thickness of the side walls of the plane) NO CUTTING will occur. This will create a very small micro rebate and the plane base then rides along the protruding part of it (a rubbing edge). Of course if you continued to advance the blade more cutting would occur into you stopped, and that would indeed compromise the usage of the shooting board side - but the reality is for ANY planes used on a shooting board, the blade cutting depth is set to take a very fine cut, as no more is needed, thus preserving the rubbing edge. Hope that clears that up!
@@tjn8844 Yes - generally people tend to use the same plane on a shooting board to this reason, using different planes that can have different sidewall thicknesses will compromise the rubbing strip. In years past Stanley Bailey used to make a "shooting plane", and they are still around, but you'll be lucky to buy one for less than £1000 - so most people generall use a #4. #5 or maybe a #6 as it has a bit more mass to it, so requires a bit less effort.
I suppose this method assumes your bench is flat and will keep the plane at 90 degrees in reference to the shooting board. Or am I missing something here?
Your planes cut so effortlessly. I sharpen and hone my plane iron up to the 8000 grit Norton waterstone, and even then I can't make cuts as effortlessly as that.
Are you removing the burr as gently as possible? Starting with the blade set in and very gradually advancing it till it just barely cuts? Rubbing candle wax on the sole and side of the plane? Also a frog that doesn't fit right can play havoc.
Yeah, I go slowly and gently when I'm honing the iron. Wax yes, advancing until it barely cuts yet, but... as for as the frog is concerned, how can you tell if it's not positioned properly? When I got the plane I removed the frog to clean all of the machining oil out of that area, and I suppose it could be slightly off now.
Andrew Kimmey I too am having that issue. I just put together a shooting board yesterday and am having trouble getting it to cut as effortlessly as all of the videos I've seen so far. I'm using an old Stanley no. 5. I see a lot of guys using a low angle. Is that the only way to cut end grain easily?
Instead of aligning and clamping your fence block to get 45 degrees, I suggest one of two changes. One, you could make a second fence that installs exactly as the first, but is 45 degrees...or adjustable even! Second idea, would be to make your fence with a slot on both sides, adding a 45 degree slot to the top of yours. Hmmmm, needs an adjustable ramp too............???
I've always wondered why the shooting board is not ruined when used. It seems as if the largest board gets planed away in use. You did not address this point.
I don't see an advantage over traditional shooting boards. You can take the stop out of a traditional board and trim it too. I have no problem with storing two shooting boards, the one for miters is not very big. And I really don't like using a tool that requires me to clamp something at a critical angle every time I use it. Finally, his using a shooting board as a planning stop only shows that his bench doesn't have a good planning stop built in.
D. Tysen me too. That's why some of us have to rely on good tools to offset the skill difference. But that kind of adversity makes one a much better craftsperson overall.
That is about the lamest shooting board, I think the poster hated shooting boards, so he made the most non-shooting board shooting board he could think of. Just buy the the Veritas shooting board!
This is probably the best video on shooting boards in all RUclips. Thanks.
Absolutely by FAR the best instructional video and concept for shooting boards!
I love this video. Not only is it good information, but the efficiency of presentation is really appreciated.
I agree with D Clark; this is one of the best shooting board videos on RUclips. I love the simplicity of the board and easy of making adjustments when they become out of true.
Wow! This is one of the BEST FW videos yet! I've been using shooting boards for 45 years and this guy showed me some new tricks! Tim Rousseau... You ROCK!
Great shooting boards. Very versatile, tunable, and adjustable.
Shooting board fences are sacrificial in nature and I like the way your SB takes that into consideration, no Glued/screwed fence. The fence is quickly flushed each time you take it out for use.
Yeeeahhh I like this build, no fancy hardware just pure ingenuity
I have soon so many examples of shooting boards BUT yours is without a doubt the very BEST I have seen. I have long learned by experience that often times the most complicated and of fancy is not always the best and in fact is usually not good at all in the long run. The simplest is often the best for a multitude of reasons. Funny how this happened because I'm going into my shop tomorrow to make a new shooting board and having seen your video I'm going to make m,y new shooting board in the same design as you have shown here with perhaps some changes in dimensions in this video. BRAVO! I am so glad I saw this video before I made my new one.
Over the decades I've made loads of these things; this one is several light years ahead of all the rest!
This was asked a couple of times here so I'll try to answer it: the reason the plane does not continually take shavings off of the edge of the shooting board is because the blade does not extend the full width of the plane sole. There is about 1/4" at the bottom of the edge of the board that does not get planed away and keeps the sole of the plane at a fixed distance (the amount the blade is extended) from the rest of the edge. In other words if you look at the profile of the edge it will be L-shaped.
Thanks
Nice! Simple, versatile, and tunable.
I'm amazed every day with the ease with which one can pick up new knowledge. Back in the day you'd have to spend years apprenticing to pick up a tenth of what's available just on RUclips. Just wow. Maybe someday I'll actually build something with all of this new found knowledge :P
I saw this 5 years ago and forgot about it. Funny how the most basic things can be made so complicated by so many people. This is just genius.
Not only is the information valuable, the presentation is very well done. Thank for this.
Blair
So does anyone know where the video is on how to make this shooting biard?
That's a great shooting board design.
Before you use your plane on a shooting board, make sure to break the edge on the side of the iron. That thing can be quite sharp. I learned this the hard way when I noticed my hand was bleeding after pushing my plane with my hand on on top of it. You can also put a strip of tape on the exposed edge.
Great shooting board. I did this. It allows you to make very precise angles.
One possible improvement could be to miter the left end of the block on both corners. Use this end when you want to shoot miters. You won't have to measure for 45 as the one mitered corner will butt up against the stop leaving the other corner exactly at 45 and flush with the bottom board. Hope you know what I mean?
You can make a dado in the transversal wood for put in the vertex, for the miter shooting board
I'm really jazzed to make one of these. The idea of more interchangeable parts fence wise is interesting. My question is what is the height of the "thin strip" that is "let in" as the fixed base that the fence rides on? Talking about planing 1/8" stock against it makes it sound really really thin. Is there a particular species of wood you recommend for this? It seems like this would be the weak ling in this aparatus--is it glued down or is it also a friction fit? To my inexpert eye it seems like one would want to be able to replace that piece.
Nice design; seems very versatile
Props for the vid! It finally helped me figure out something I was stuck with. I haven't started with Hyezmar's Woodworking Bible yet, but I googled and downloaded the book. Looks fun too!
Really good video. My first shooting board, made yesterday, was glued and screwed together. And besides that it was rubbish! I'm going to have another go, and copy this design!
Excelent, simple and beauty.
This video is outstanding, Its simple and too the point, perfect for my needs. I 'm sick of storing all the stuff you should make for your shop.
Can I also add a drop of water to the wood when shooting a 45 on the board.
Thanks great job
2:35 Love how the plane is so flat that it creates a vacuum that lifts the board he's planing.
frogsoda also require very flat even boards which is more difficult than I've been able to achieve so far.
Dont think so.. could be due to shaving stuck in the blade..
Naa, the friction of the weight of the plane is dragging the light weight wood backwards.
Great video
That's the best video about woodworking I saw for ages. Simple, quick and very usefull. Thanks !
I have not seen one like that before and its interesting.
Thanks for the idea
What’s the best planes to use for shooting boards I have a Stanley no 4 5 and 6 and block planes no low angle ones yet
I use a shooting board daily. I like the # 6 since it is the heaviest of the 3. Also use a very shallow cut, tight mouth and blade edge is square to length of blade. But in reality any of the 3 will work. Make sure the side of the plane is at 90 degrees to the sole.
William Branham thank you
simple and excellent
That was great. Thank you!
Excellent to the point video
They don’t go out of square if you use UHMW tape to run on
Thx, great tutorial
So in example 3 where you want to butt 2 boards together, what prevents the handheld boards from being planed convex or concave that always happens to me.
if I understand your question, I think that's an issue with the blade "geometry" ie, it ain't flat enough! Also, double check the "shelf" the plane is riding on. If it's not EXACTLY 90* you could get some weird results. If it's measuring right, but, you're getting bad results, check with a second square. I had a square at 88* (plus or minus)....
I'm going to add my WOW to everyone else's. Thank you.
How do you square up your plane blade?
Thank you for sharing...
Excellent process.
Excellent, really well explained. Do you have your own RUclips channel? Thanks
is that a stanley plane iw would love to know what brand that is thaks for the video
Thanks!
Some interesting and original ideas, here.
I have used a shooting-board for about 40 years, and wouldn't be able to work without it.
You cannot function as a woodworker without one. (Unless you are just a machinist, of course.)
The key is to build for the suit of your purposes and environment. The work shop I work out of is also an anything fab shop so it had to be useful on a variety of work benches/tables of different heights, and had to be extra long for the drawer faces I need to join. Its not the easiest to work with for both reasons and isn't pretty, but it works and works well. It requires indexing the work against the plane sole on the bottom edge, and because the base is a 1/32 higher than the plane track, the iron leaves a 1/32 lip on the bottom edge (easy enough to deal with).
The only problem I actually care about is how these types of tools confine the contact surface of the plane, wearing out that specific area of the iron requiring higher sharpening frequency. I may make a screw adjustable base rise to change the angle of the work to make use of the entire iron surface, but it will do for what I need now.
Very nice informational video.
Could someone tell me what that clamp/vise looking object was on the bench at the start with the more conventional looking shooting boards? I have seen one in a local second hand shop but the only thing the owner could tell me was that it's some kind of woodworking contraption. If I knew it's particular use I might just need to have one in my workspace. Thanks
Jonto Dickens The one on the left at 0:05? I'm not sure, and I've never seen it before, but it looks like a cross between a donkey's ear shooting board and a clamp. You could clamp your work between the two jaws. If you had an irregular piece, it wouldn't sit well in a normal donkey's ear board. Like this, you could place something irregular or thick in the jaws, and then register your chisel along the rail and do work on your piece.
I might be wrong, but maybe you could test it out at that shop.
Jonto Dickens It's called a miter jack. Sort of like a shooting board but just for 45 degree angles
Does the shooting board has a step down on the lower part?
Do to push the plane against the plywood or you plane on the air?
If I understand your question, you would use your bench as the surface that the plane rides on. If that bothered you then you could put down a protective sheet. ie., MDF. plywood, etc...
pinkiewerewolf My question is. Does the plane bite into the plywood that is the base of the SB? Or can you easily figure out when you are close, and don't continually take bits of the SB off when you are shooting another board?
+Howard Springsteen A regular bench plane is wider than the blade. The narrow bit of the sole that's to the right side of the blade rubs against the base plate of the shooting board and stops the plane from continuing to cut deeper. The blade removes a rabbit that's only as deep as the blade extends from the sole.
Howard Springsteen
2:34 this is actually, how flat & smooth that surface is. Awesome!!!
Awesome ❤
Very informative. Thank you.
Excellent. Thank you.
I like this! I'll need to glue a bottom piece of ply wider than the top piece instead of running the plane on the bench. My bench is less than a smooth even surface.
Great shooting board :) I'll try it
LOVIT ! Very Nice Info that just makes sense, Thx’s for sharing !
This should be obvious to me, but the block you're using for the fence here is walnut - is that correct? I've tried building one of the more traditional shooting board versions with a glued oak fence and I had trouble taking shavings off the end grain with that when I was first getting it setup.
The appearance of the end grain at: 3:24 looks regular enough that the block could be plywood? I'm curious if there's any advantage to using solid wood for that block vs. something laminated? You can edge plane both (to flush/square), no?
Best I’ve seen.
I like this. I'm going to build one, or two.
@FineWoodworking what plane is that? A n.7?
Looks like a Stanley Bedrock 607?
This is a beautiful shooting board. Going to give this a try soon rather than micro adjust with painters tape constantly.
I use painters tape on mine. Works great for me.
Çok faydalı olmuş👍
When you're planing aren't you also planing the side of the board at the bottom?
+wingwalker007 If the blade of the plane went to the edge of the plane you would but since there is a shoulder there it will only plane into a little bit of the bottom board. Once the edge of the plane bottoms out on the lip of the bottom board it will not plane deeper into that board.
Ah, so the primary "base" board starts thicker than the shoulder width between the iron and the edge of the plane, leading the shooting board to have a step where it's tuned to a particular plane?
I'm just starting out and that was bugging me to death. But that makes sense.
You got it!
FineWoodworking Excellent, thanks. I started to build one yesterday and realized I'd never thought it through that far.
watching you plane, I realized... I need to get better at sharpening. what is your preferred sharpening method?
Anyone else realizing the same thing, right *after* you master sharpening, rub a little candle wax across your plane’s sole (and side if using a shooting board). Be warned that this makes the actual motion of planing *so* much easier that you might not be as motivated to master sharpening, or keep your blade as sharp.
in my college in scotland a Shooting Board is a plywood board with sand paper glue to it use for sand end grain square weird that
"without breakout" 3:37 scared the poop outta me
Why?
It was dubbed in after the video and sounded much lower pitched than the rest of it. Just startled me with headphones in.
Ahhhh, makes sense now.
thank you so much
@ TKARLMANN: The only type of plane you would use on the shooting board is one that has a "closed" mouth, meaning any plane that is NOT designed to cut rebates or shoulders where the blade goes to the VERY EDGE of the side of the plane (an "open" mouth). What happens is when the shooting board is used for the very first time the plane blade will indeed cut into the side of the shooting board BUT and here's the important bit - it will only do so where blade touches wood, where the blade mouth "closed" sides are (the thickness of the side walls of the plane) NO CUTTING will occur. This will create a very small micro rebate and the plane base then rides along the protruding part of it (a rubbing edge). Of course if you continued to advance the blade more cutting would occur into you stopped, and that would indeed compromise the usage of the shooting board side - but the reality is for ANY planes used on a shooting board, the blade cutting depth is set to take a very fine cut, as no more is needed, thus preserving the rubbing edge.
Hope that clears that up!
@@tjn8844 Yes - generally people tend to use the same plane on a shooting board to this reason, using different planes that can have different sidewall thicknesses will compromise the rubbing strip. In years past Stanley Bailey used to make a "shooting plane", and they are still around, but you'll be lucky to buy one for less than £1000 - so most people generall use a #4. #5 or maybe a #6 as it has a bit more mass to it, so requires a bit less effort.
muy bueno
I suppose this method assumes your bench is flat and will keep the plane at 90 degrees in reference to the shooting board. Or am I missing something here?
lateral adjustment on the plane can account for micro adjustments.
0:20 applies to a lot of things in life
Good stuff ta!
Your planes cut so effortlessly. I sharpen and hone my plane iron up to the 8000 grit Norton waterstone, and even then I can't make cuts as effortlessly as that.
Are you removing the burr as gently as possible? Starting with the blade set in and very gradually advancing it till it just barely cuts? Rubbing candle wax on the sole and side of the plane? Also a frog that doesn't fit right can play havoc.
Yeah, I go slowly and gently when I'm honing the iron. Wax yes, advancing until it barely cuts yet, but... as for as the frog is concerned, how can you tell if it's not positioned properly? When I got the plane I removed the frog to clean all of the machining oil out of that area, and I suppose it could be slightly off now.
Andrew Kimmey I too am having that issue. I just put together a shooting board yesterday and am having trouble getting it to cut as effortlessly as all of the videos I've seen so far. I'm using an old Stanley no. 5. I see a lot of guys using a low angle. Is that the only way to cut end grain easily?
Rob Cosgrove trick: wax your plane
Instead of aligning and clamping your fence block to get 45 degrees, I suggest one of two changes. One, you could make a second fence that installs exactly as the first, but is 45 degrees...or adjustable even!
Second idea, would be to make your fence with a slot on both sides, adding a 45 degree slot to the top of yours.
Hmmmm, needs an adjustable ramp too............???
After watching this I now realize you can clamp together an impromptu shooting board.
The mitre board is best.
My only shooting board is with bullet holes in it. Grin.
My kind of humor!
the plane on the bench
I've always wondered why the shooting board is not ruined when used. It seems as if the largest board gets planed away in use. You did not address this point.
I don't see an advantage over traditional shooting boards. You can take the stop out of a traditional board and trim it too. I have no problem with storing two shooting boards, the one for miters is not very big. And I really don't like using a tool that requires me to clamp something at a critical angle every time I use it. Finally, his using a shooting board as a planning stop only shows that his bench doesn't have a good planning stop built in.
This guy's obviously pretty experienced so I don't mean to cast aspersions, but every time his bench wobbles it makes me literally squirm.
D. Tysen me too. That's why some of us have to rely on good tools to offset the skill difference.
But that kind of adversity makes one a much better craftsperson overall.
3:36: whoa, what just happened there... lol
I talked to barzini
The perfect shaves.. bruh
shooting board? more like shooting hottie :)
I never heard of a shooting board.
P
Wow and I thought Christian Bale was only great at acting
That is about the lamest shooting board, I think the poster hated shooting boards, so he made the most non-shooting board shooting board he could think of. Just buy the the Veritas shooting board!