I've worked in SPFX for over 21 yrs in Hollywood in many media, incl., detailed miniature model work, as well as illustration work, advertising, set design, construction, sculpting, molding, casting, prosthetic makeup, costuming, airbrushing, and props. ~ The best way to paint onto tight, micro-detailed surfaces such as the cockpit you see in this video, is to make, tiny, smooth-surfaced, hard pieces of thin rubber into stamps, & cut the stamps to the shape of the isolated or overall area you will be painting. Glue the rubber piece(s) onto the flat end of a small, round or square wooden dowel. Apply a very, super thin, light coat of the correct color paint onto the stamp (CAREFUL not to get paint around the outer edges of the stamp, or paint too close to the edge of the stamp so u don't get paint on anything but the raised detail). While paint is still wet, CAREFULLY, but EVENLY press the stamp lightly on top of the raised detail, and you should have a perfect paint job on ONLY the raised areas. It's like and old printing press. Therz just enough of a thin layer of ink on the surface of the transverse letters, so, when they are pressed onto the paper, a perfect print of the letter appears on the paper. * It's best to practice using your custom made rubber stamps on pieces of scrap plastic before applying them to the model. Too much paint on the stamp can bleed past the raised surfaces. *Don't forget to clean the stamp with the proper paint cleaner before each use to assure/ensure a clean, even print of paint each time. Hope this helps anyone attempting this method. ~ Good Luck!
Removing the raised detail was an absolutely fantastic stroke of genius. I saw your video before my kit arrived. I’ve built my fair share of Bandai kits to know that your method is the way to go. Thank-you.
I have seen so many people complain about the lighting for the cockpit. You nailed it and the idea for sanding down the raised parts so you can lay the decals is brilliant.
That is wrong. It Looks much better without sanding the raised parts and the original lighting is also very good. You only need the decals on the clear part.
I’ve been practicing with Bandai kits for over a year now to acquire the skill to do this one. I took it out of the box today and boy, is it intimidating. Your videos are very helpful.
I have this kit and am holding off building it as I want to get a bit more skilled before I attempt it. Definitely going to be watching these to see the problems and solutions you come up with.
I didn‘t do any of that and the result is fantastic. The decals hold up an everything is nice and plastic and the lightning also Loks very good without any changes.
Chili, that is the best job I have seen done on the cockpit of the Bandai Perfect Grade 1/72 Falcon. You handled it the as far as I can see the only way one can and wind up with a fantastic look. What you did is exactly how I plan to handle mine, so it was really great to see someone else actually do it that way so I am now confident that my plan will work, hopefully as well as yours. Great job my friend! Thanks for sharing!
Very helpful video. I have been considering the sanding route after seeing all the cockpit decal problems on other build vids. It's great that you have proof that it's a viable solution.
Great! I definitely think you went the right way with the cockpit panels. I have seen them painted and that looks good, too. But the detail on the decals is much more precise. Keep the vids coming!
This kit looks absolutely amazing; I wish it was priced a bit easier on the wallet. I'm not gonna lie, when you talked about sanding off the details my heart was in my throat but it looks like it paid off. It does seem a bit odd that they would make the kit with lighting in mind, include all the necessary components to light it, and then put those kind of restricting chunks of plastic in but your effort to hack out that obstacle really shines through (no pun intended) when you see the various buttons and panels lit up. Though its early in the build, it looks to be coming together beautifully; looking forward to seeing more!
I think it's intended that the light goes into the clear plastic from those restricted points... it then would spread out through the plastic and shine out of the decal where it's translucent. But since he drilled holes and then back filled them with paint... that would prevent the light shining through as originally intended... so he had to cut things out.
FYI, decals can be manipulated with heat. Not sure if the detail is too deep on the cockpit panels but you’d be amazed how much they can be fitted around ‘“in-flat’ parts
I was thinking about sanding down the cockpit after watching Si's fiasco to pt them on. Glad it turned out good. Figures look awesome. Hope mine turn out just as good as yours and Si's.
i want to use the decals over the raised details the idea of destroying the detail or not using the decals are both really not what i want to do. Can I see how yours worked out? I'm no stranger to the tedious process of slowly forming decals with micro sol so I'm hopeful that I can do this, but would love to see somebody that already did this successfully. Thanks
@@oliverward795 I may still have pictures, I will dig them out. Also I ran a full fibre light set. Truest me never again. That’s a lot of micro holes have to be drilled. I’ll pm when I have images.
Once the decal went down onto the cockpit's back wall, won't the light shine through the buttons on the decals? Wasn't the decal designed to have light shining through it?
Good job, that came out quite nicely. Yes that would have been a hard decision on filling away the raised detail, but I think it was a good way to go. Looks wonderful lit up!
Great video on this topic. It's sad that you had to sand out all that detail. I have the Fine Molds 1/72 Millennium Falcon kit along with the Paragrapix cockpit detail set. It will be interesting to note the differences. Overall I think the Bandai kit is the best kit available today on this subject, but the Fine Molds now sold as a rebox under Revell is still a great and much less expensive option that details extremely well.
I should add, their are absolutely no comparisons between the Bandai and Fine Molds figures. The Bandai figures and detailing in general is just far FAR superior. The figures are the biggest disappointment since they are very difficult to detail if the detail isn't already there.
Maybe that detail could have worked with reverse washing, but then you would not have gotten anywhere near as nice of a result from the LEDs. What a strange conundrum. Beautiful detail and big decals. In any case, beautiful work as always, Sam. Making fantastic progress.
Removing the detail was the way to go- as we can plainly see it just isn't visible through the canopy. I will admit that it still broke my heart. I would have been sorely tempted to saw them off and rebuild the walls with sheet styrene, and save the panels for a scratchbuild later.
@7:58 -- They call these cotton buds "Precision Tips" in the States. The brand name here is Q-tips. My guess is that in-store you would find them in the make up aisle. You could also try the Q-tips website to see which stores might carry them.
In my experience so far, you actually can put the decals over raised detail, however you will need to use a setting agent like walthers solvaset which is much stronger than micro sol. It will take 4 or 5 coats, but the decal will set over the raised detail perfectly. It even works on the airfix thick decals. It is something to try on a hidden panel before doing a area that is visible, but it has worked well for me. Solvaset or something like it should be available from a good model train supply house.
The issue is that even if they did settle perfectly (which I've yet to see a Bandai decal ever do) the raised detail was so high that it would have distorted the decal. You're effectively increasing the surface area that the decal has to sit over, causing the edges to shrink. If you've managed to get it to work that's amazing! I'd love to see how it looks.
Would it be possible to scan the decals and print them onto a better quality decal sheet. Just wondering as it seems a shame sending down a perfect grade kit. After building this twice do you prefer your original technique of painting the cockpit details or the second of sanding to add the decals fit? Just curious Cheers for the inspiration though.
Hi, so do you have to sand off the raise moldings in order to apply the decals? If you don't use the decals, what do you do with the black portions of the cockpit? Do you spray painted it according to the instructions?
You don't have to sand off the raised bits, some people say they've got the decals to settle, so it's always worth a shot. If you don't use them you'd need to brush paint all the details.
You always do a standup job as in it stands out and looks amazing. I'm using this as a tutorial as I start on mine. Anything you would do differently if you did it again? And would you ever do this model again?
Thank you! Hope it helps! Hmm not sure what I'd do differently, maybe just simplify the painting. No I wouldn't do this for myself, would happily do another one on commission!
It would've been much easier to: color print a snapshot of the panels on transparent paper, and then just put a small led light behind, that way you'd get all the colors, lines and detail of the wall control panels
The cockpit panel decals look great as does the lighting through the cockpit aft wall. Did you consider adding additional LEDs for other cockpit panel lighting?
Building the Millennium Falcon is on my list. I'll give adding additional LED lighting a go. Your videos will be a great help. Thank you for your amazing videos. Cheers!
Looking great! I recently got my kit and noticed that there's no decals for the quad cannon's 2 cockpits. Are you gonna paint in the details? Would love to know your idea.
What if you just painted the Cockpit black, and drybrushed the grey/silvery lines carefully over the raised detail (since every raised detail IS in fact at least silver) ...then all that is left is to make the colour dots over the silver dry-brushed Detail...which also lights the colours up a bit... Even tho you finished this model quite a while ago...the second PGMF is in the works and maybe some other modelpainter, facing a similar Problem seeking help from your video stumbles upon my comment
Would the decal softener or setter not have worked for placing those decals over the raised detail? I've never used it myself before, and I thought that was the point of it... so that's why I'm asking.
Maybe a different sort of setter might have worked, but the more coats you apply the more you run the risk of dissolving the decal. Also the main issue is that even if it sets perfectly you're still going to end up distorting all those sharp lines on the decal.
I’m building the cockpit now. I want to use C-3PO but where? There are only 4 in the cockpit at a time And if I move Luke and Han to the guns Obi-wan should be gone so I have an empty seat. I may be over thinking this but I want to use them all!
So funny that the whole video I’m thinking “he sounds like Peter Jackson with that New Zealand accent”. Then at the end of the video you have a miniature wrong wraith sword hahaha
Nah, ModelChili is MUCH more flattered when you tell him he sounds like a Clone Trooper or Fett! Oh, he's going to be insufferable after The Book of Boba Fett premieres! 😂 🤣😂 🤣 I'm only slightly warm about The Mandalorian myself (after a MUCH overhyped and poorly executed Sequel Trilogy) but I gotta say the reintroduction of Boba Fett and return of Luke Skywalker gave it a decent conclusion for its second season. I didn't watch all of it -- just the scenes with those 2 characters. P.S. -- About DAMN TIME LucasFilm and Disney actually gave fans a project they wanted to see for only the last 20 years!!!!
They sit in there like they're sitting at a dinner table. That cockpit must be a place of some seriously high etiquette. Or of an awkward self-consciousness. Maybe Obi-Wan farted and they're all pretending that nothing happened.
Greenstrawberry makes a photo etch detail kit for this kit and a lot more Bandai kits greenstrawberry.cz/star-wars/yt-1300-millennium-falcon-pg-cockpit-gun-wells--129.html
Bandai 1/72 Perfect Grade Millennium Falcon: amzn.to/2NdN0Wp
I've worked in SPFX for over 21 yrs in Hollywood in many media, incl., detailed miniature model work, as well as illustration work, advertising, set design, construction, sculpting, molding, casting, prosthetic makeup, costuming, airbrushing, and props.
~ The best way to paint onto tight, micro-detailed surfaces such as the cockpit you see in this video, is to make, tiny, smooth-surfaced, hard pieces of thin rubber into stamps, & cut the stamps to the shape of the isolated or overall area you will be painting. Glue the rubber piece(s) onto the flat end of a small, round or square wooden dowel. Apply a very, super thin, light coat of the correct color paint onto the stamp (CAREFUL not to get paint around the outer edges of the stamp, or paint too close to the edge of the stamp so u don't get paint on anything but the raised detail).
While paint is still wet, CAREFULLY, but EVENLY press the stamp lightly on top of the raised detail, and you should have a perfect paint job on ONLY the raised areas. It's like and old printing press. Therz just enough of a thin layer of ink on the surface of the transverse letters, so, when they are pressed onto the paper, a perfect print of the letter appears on the paper.
* It's best to practice using your custom made rubber stamps on pieces of scrap plastic before applying them to the model. Too much paint on the stamp can bleed past the raised surfaces.
*Don't forget to clean the stamp with the proper paint cleaner before each use to assure/ensure a clean, even print of paint each time.
Hope this helps anyone attempting this method.
~ Good Luck!
Removing the raised detail was an absolutely fantastic stroke of genius. I saw your video before my kit arrived. I’ve built my fair share of Bandai kits to know that your method is the way to go. Thank-you.
Thank you, I'm glad it turned out ok!
It works very well and much better without removing the raised details.
I have seen so many people complain about the lighting for the cockpit. You nailed it and the idea for sanding down the raised parts so you can lay the decals is brilliant.
Thank you. :)
That is wrong. It Looks much better without sanding the raised parts and the original lighting is also very good. You only need the decals on the clear part.
I’ve been practicing with Bandai kits for over a year now to acquire the skill to do this one. I took it out of the box today and boy, is it intimidating. Your videos are very helpful.
Thanks, good luck! Let me know if you need any tips or help.
Great job, I definitely learned the hard way with those decals and trying to put them over the raised detail. Look forward to the rest of the build.
Cheers mate, yours was one of the videos I looked at to see if anyone could get the decals to work, so you helped me make a decision! :)
i dont see the point why bandai bothered with the raised detail guess it gives you the option to paint
You are a true artist sir.
Thanks :)
I have this kit and am holding off building it as I want to get a bit more skilled before I attempt it. Definitely going to be watching these to see the problems and solutions you come up with.
I just bought one of these. This is REALLY helpful. Thanks man.
Glad I could help!
The ASMR is unreal. Mine's got of the charts with this video
I didn‘t do any of that and the result is fantastic. The decals hold up an everything is nice and plastic and the lightning also Loks very good without any changes.
Chili, that is the best job I have seen done on the cockpit of the Bandai Perfect Grade 1/72 Falcon. You handled it the as far as I can see the only way one can and wind up with a fantastic look. What you did is exactly how I plan to handle mine, so it was really great to see someone else actually do it that way so I am now confident that my plan will work, hopefully as well as yours. Great job my friend! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you! I'm really happy it turned out well, and hope yours does too!
Wow man those background lights look awsome. You have a great deal of skill. Keep the video coming
Thanks!
Your steps and explanations are very helpful... subscribed and added to my library... cheers from Texas...
Thanks! Welcome. :)
Once again!!! A great model and great painting!!! Keep up the good work buddy!😃
Thanks!
Very helpful video. I have been considering the sanding route after seeing all the cockpit decal problems on other build vids. It's great that you have proof that it's a viable solution.
Cheers, I'm glad it helps!
Great! I definitely think you went the right way with the cockpit panels. I have seen them painted and that looks good, too. But the detail on the decals is much more precise. Keep the vids coming!
Thanks!
Brilliant Job on the cockpit!
Thank you!
Great vid mate, glad your building this as I just picked one up :)
Cheers!
Great job
Great work, looking forward to part 3
Thanks!
Love your work mate. Build looking great.
Cheers!
Awesome job, looking forward to the next video
Thanks :)
Hi sam well done you took the correct decision it looks amazing my friend 👍🏻
Thanks :)
This kit looks absolutely amazing; I wish it was priced a bit easier on the wallet. I'm not gonna lie, when you talked about sanding off the details my heart was in my throat but it looks like it paid off. It does seem a bit odd that they would make the kit with lighting in mind, include all the necessary components to light it, and then put those kind of restricting chunks of plastic in but your effort to hack out that obstacle really shines through (no pun intended) when you see the various buttons and panels lit up. Though its early in the build, it looks to be coming together beautifully; looking forward to seeing more!
Thanks! Yeah it needed a bit of persuading but it all worked out I think.
I think it's intended that the light goes into the clear plastic from those restricted points... it then would spread out through the plastic and shine out of the decal where it's translucent. But since he drilled holes and then back filled them with paint... that would prevent the light shining through as originally intended... so he had to cut things out.
FYI, decals can be manipulated with heat. Not sure if the detail is too deep on the cockpit panels but you’d be amazed how much they can be fitted around ‘“in-flat’ parts
I was thinking about sanding down the cockpit after watching Si's fiasco to pt them on. Glad it turned out good. Figures look awesome. Hope mine turn out just as good as yours and Si's.
Thanks!
Micro sol and set work together to melt the decal into the low and high details. It’s a slow process, but all my decals fitted fine on the cockpit.
i want to use the decals over the raised details the idea of destroying the detail or not using the decals are both really not what i want to do. Can I see how yours worked out? I'm no stranger to the tedious process of slowly forming decals with micro sol so I'm hopeful that I can do this, but would love to see somebody that already did this successfully. Thanks
@@oliverward795 I may still have pictures, I will dig them out. Also I ran a full fibre light set. Truest me never again. That’s a lot of micro holes have to be drilled. I’ll pm when I have images.
Thatd be amazing I really appreciate that
Once the decal went down onto the cockpit's back wall, won't the light shine through the buttons on the decals? Wasn't the decal designed to have light shining through it?
Good job, that came out quite nicely.
Yes that would have been a hard decision on filling away the raised detail, but I think it was a good way to go.
Looks wonderful lit up!
Thanks Vaughan 😎
That is cool
Thanks!
Stunning work sir.
Thanks :)
I enjoyed your video
Great video on this topic. It's sad that you had to sand out all that detail. I have the Fine Molds 1/72 Millennium Falcon kit along with the Paragrapix cockpit detail set. It will be interesting to note the differences. Overall I think the Bandai kit is the best kit available today on this subject, but the Fine Molds now sold as a rebox under Revell is still a great and much less expensive option that details extremely well.
I should add, their are absolutely no comparisons between the Bandai and Fine Molds figures. The Bandai figures and detailing in general is just far FAR superior. The figures are the biggest disappointment since they are very difficult to detail if the detail isn't already there.
Good video. Need part 3 plz
Thanks! Ha, gimme chance. :)
Maybe that detail could have worked with reverse washing, but then you would not have gotten anywhere near as nice of a result from the LEDs. What a strange conundrum. Beautiful detail and big decals.
In any case, beautiful work as always, Sam. Making fantastic progress.
Cheers!
You may want to look into a detail chisel. It would peel that stuff right off without running the risk of gouging what you don't want to hurt.
Removing the detail was the way to go- as we can plainly see it just isn't visible through the canopy.
I will admit that it still broke my heart. I would have been sorely tempted to saw them off and rebuild the walls with sheet styrene, and save the panels for a scratchbuild later.
Check out my latest build of this, I kept the detail and painted it instead. :)
Looks ace Sam 🖒😉
Thanks Tim!
Photo-etch 101...flat surfaces. Good job.
Exactly. :) Thanks.
@7:58 -- They call these cotton buds "Precision Tips" in the States. The brand name here is Q-tips. My guess is that in-store you would find them in the make up aisle. You could also try the Q-tips website to see which stores might carry them.
Nice, thanks for the info. :)
In my experience so far, you actually can put the decals over raised detail, however you will need to use a setting agent like walthers solvaset which is much stronger than micro sol. It will take 4 or 5 coats, but the decal will set over the raised detail perfectly. It even works on the airfix thick decals. It is something to try on a hidden panel before doing a area that is visible, but it has worked well for me. Solvaset or something like it should be available from a good model train supply house.
The issue is that even if they did settle perfectly (which I've yet to see a Bandai decal ever do) the raised detail was so high that it would have distorted the decal. You're effectively increasing the surface area that the decal has to sit over, causing the edges to shrink. If you've managed to get it to work that's amazing! I'd love to see how it looks.
Would it be possible to scan the decals and print them onto a better quality decal sheet. Just wondering as it seems a shame sending down a perfect grade kit.
After building this twice do you prefer your original technique of painting the cockpit details or the second of sanding to add the decals fit? Just curious
Cheers for the inspiration though.
Sanding away the detail is what I did first. I now prefer to paint them and ditch the decals.
Hi, so do you have to sand off the raise moldings in order to apply the decals? If you don't use the decals, what do you do with the black portions of the cockpit? Do you spray painted it according to the instructions?
You don't have to sand off the raised bits, some people say they've got the decals to settle, so it's always worth a shot. If you don't use them you'd need to brush paint all the details.
Great Work Chili - what kind of paint will allow light to shine through? I'm thinking of the back panel that looks like a flattened Christmas tree :)
Thanks! I used Tamiya clear acrylic paints.
Looks fantastic, I got one of these waiting to be built too, absolutely terrified to crack the box.
Cheers! Go on, crack it open!
What clear coat did you use to protect from the matte coat?Just the Tamiya one?
Yep both Tamiya TS-13 and TS-80
Hi there good idea to get rid of the details before you use the decals I also like the way you sorted the cockpit lights mods not seen so ok
I have this kit and was wondering how to attack the cockpit detail, i think the sanding idea is the way to go!
Thanks, glad you thought so too. 😁
May I ask what you are using for you light source or if you are lighting from multiple points for this sheer brilliance and visibility?
BT Dubs this is a micro master-class to the fledgling model master. Subbed.
Two LED lamps either side of the camera. That's all, nothing fancy!
You always do a standup job as in it stands out and looks amazing. I'm using this as a tutorial as I start on mine. Anything you would do differently if you did it again? And would you ever do this model again?
Thank you! Hope it helps! Hmm not sure what I'd do differently, maybe just simplify the painting. No I wouldn't do this for myself, would happily do another one on commission!
What about laser cut instrument panel that come from n those steel 3-d kits
It would've been much easier to: color print a snapshot of the panels on transparent paper, and then just put a small led light behind, that way you'd get all the colors, lines and detail of the wall control panels
Interesting idea...
The cockpit panel decals look great as does the lighting through the cockpit aft wall. Did you consider adding additional LEDs for other cockpit panel lighting?
Thanks! Not really, would look amazing but quite outside my job scope. :p
Building the Millennium Falcon is on my list. I'll give adding additional LED lighting a go. Your videos will be a great help. Thank you for your amazing videos. Cheers!
cool video of your build of the falcon i did a video of my falcon that had over 100 parts i painted it
Nice!
Looking great! I recently got my kit and noticed that there's no decals for the quad cannon's 2 cockpits. Are you gonna paint in the details? Would love to know your idea.
Thanks! Yep will need to. :)
What if you just painted the Cockpit black, and drybrushed the grey/silvery lines carefully over the raised detail (since every raised detail IS in fact at least silver) ...then all that is left is to make the colour dots over the silver dry-brushed Detail...which also lights the colours up a bit... Even tho you finished this model quite a while ago...the second PGMF is in the works and maybe some other modelpainter, facing a similar Problem seeking help from your video stumbles upon my comment
Yeah that's what I did on the second build where I didn't use the decals.
Is this Korg?
Would the decal softener or setter not have worked for placing those decals over the raised detail? I've never used it myself before, and I thought that was the point of it... so that's why I'm asking.
Alva The Wayfarer those details are too harsh with too many raised points. Even using softener would still result in a poor decal placement
Maybe a different sort of setter might have worked, but the more coats you apply the more you run the risk of dissolving the decal. Also the main issue is that even if it sets perfectly you're still going to end up distorting all those sharp lines on the decal.
Yeah, what Bagel Bro said. :p
What size needle do you use in your airbrush? What pressure do you run?
About 30psi, not sure what the needle size is.
Wise decision on filing the 3D cabin detail away
HI, PLEASE MAKE A PLAYLIST FOR ALL MILLENIUM FSALCON PERFECT GRADE VIDEOS IN SEQUENCE....
HI, I DID!
Did you sand down the control panels too??
Most of the wall panels yeah.
Cool
I’m building the cockpit now. I want to use C-3PO but where? There are only 4 in the cockpit at a time And if I move Luke and Han to the guns Obi-wan should be gone so I have an empty seat. I may be over thinking this but I want to use them all!
Yeah you can't use them all if you want it to be movie accurate. Otherwise just don't worry about the movie and stick them where you want. :)
Is it just me who can't stop asking: Why is there no windshield glass?
if I were you I would have painted the cockpit but unlike most I do enjoy workin a week on a single part under a microscope.
to each their own
I really like your job, i have a question, Can you make a "Wolfpack" clone trooper?
Thanks! I suppose it's possible...
ModelChili Scale Models Thank you! (•w•)
Where did you put Leia and C3PO?
In the gun turrets... nah I just sent them off loose.
I am pretty sure that a company makes brass units for that like my deagostini millennium falcon 👍
Thanks, will check it out.
Tamiya markfit strong would do the job would it not?
Try it and let us know! :)
Lol that looked like a Bunnings sanding block.
lol yep
My Bandai model didn't come with Decals ,it came with Stickers!
Why is the cockpit door see through?
To let light through.
So funny that the whole video I’m thinking “he sounds like Peter Jackson with that New Zealand accent”. Then at the end of the video you have a miniature wrong wraith sword hahaha
It's standard issue for all kiwis. :p
Nah, ModelChili is MUCH more flattered when you tell him he sounds like a Clone Trooper or Fett!
Oh, he's going to be insufferable after The Book of Boba Fett premieres! 😂 🤣😂 🤣
I'm only slightly warm about The Mandalorian myself (after a MUCH overhyped and poorly executed Sequel Trilogy) but I gotta say the reintroduction of Boba Fett and return of Luke Skywalker gave it a decent conclusion for its second season. I didn't watch all of it -- just the scenes with those 2 characters.
P.S. -- About DAMN TIME LucasFilm and Disney actually gave fans a project they wanted to see for only the last 20 years!!!!
why didn't he just use the micro sol on the decals instead of sanding away everything?
Because he knew the size and depth of the raised detail would warp the decals, even if they settled perfectly.
I know the cost would go up, but I hate plastic canopies. Has anyone ever made them out of actual glass? I'm guessing no.
I have to give it to you , you have some nerves , myself I would have only dry brushed on several layers … in any case well done.
Cheers!
Shame the kit is a commission haha it would look great in your collection.
Ha, I probably don't have room for it.
They sit in there like they're sitting at a dinner table. That cockpit must be a place of some seriously high etiquette. Or of an awkward self-consciousness. Maybe Obi-Wan farted and they're all pretending that nothing happened.
Who else recognised the intro song from the horror channel Dead Meat?
Greenstrawberry makes a photo etch detail kit for this kit and a lot more Bandai kits greenstrawberry.cz/star-wars/yt-1300-millennium-falcon-pg-cockpit-gun-wells--129.html
Imagine paying 500.00 for the kit and then having to grind away and kit-bash the so-called "perfect grade" kit.
Jvirria ur wrong...
Muy mala imagen.
“I know from experience from doing Bandai kits that their decals don’t work on raised detail pieces.” Dude learn how to decal.😂🤣
I'm always eager to learn! I'd love to see how the decals look on the wall panels. 😃