thanks for another excellent video Nick. it's great seeing what can be accomplished with just a hammer, dolly and some know-how. a true craftsman at work. this is some of the best metal shaping on RUclips.
I got LED headlights like that for my 49 Studebaker truck but I didn't like the looks. I wound up finding LEDs that look like the old sealed beam headlights. They are glass not plastic so that was a plus too. I have learned a lot of sheet metal working from you. Keep teaching us.
We'll see how these turn out. Might update them to glass later. It's a 'project' giving me plenty of opportunities to tweak things. Thanks for watching Terry!
Those new rings look a whole heck of a lot better than if you welded the stock ones on. It's all about the flow and you got it right .... for the entire car! Great job. Ignore the naysayers. Looking forward to seeing this car finished! 👍👍👍😃
I am really really looking forward to seeing how you actually mount the headlight bucket/assembly into the fender so the light can be aimed and the bulb replaced.
hi nick love what you and your dad have done with that old tub it will be a stunner for sure cant wait for the reveal of the 40 coupe and pickup keep the vids coming dude all the best from scotland
Hey Nick! I've been waiting on this video. I think the front should look mustangish and maybe put a Ford symbol in the circular emblem on the front of the Shoebox-Stang, Let's Go!
Interesting discussion. I did some testing welds a few weeks ago joining 18 gauge mild steel to 1/8 304 stainless plate using 309LSi rod. Coincidentally long before you made this video. I am not seeing any signs of corrosion beyond what you would get with any bare mild steel and none on the stainless. If you could describe the risks in more detail that would be very helpful. If I were to use all mild steel I know I would have a rust problem in the future anyway, and the stainless shines up so much nicer, so what is the downside? Thank you.
@@iNVisionPrototypes Thanks for getting back to me. So are you saying that galvanic corrosion between stainless and mild steel is not that big of an issue in reality?
Adjustment screws will be flipped and accessed from inside the wheel well. Can reach up inside without pulling the buckets to make adjustments every time.
So a question if you will... When you "shrink" the metal is that essentially pinching it together to "pull" it closer? and stretching it is "squashing" it to spread it!???? Or have I got that wrong
They over there would love this old girl - before the massage we've given here :D haha!! Even the 'chop' wasn't 'traditional'.. ahh well! Thanks for watching!!
Hi Warren, great question Sir! When you shrink, you bunch/gather the metal together making it thicker while the stretcher spreads the material apart thereby thinning it out. Think dough. In this case, shrinking the perimeter created less surface area and pushed the inner ring upward. It's always a good practice to shrink and stretch about 50/50 if one can help it. When I rolled the edge that meets the headlight I was stretching over the dolly but not so much that it was paper thin - still lots of body left. Hope that helps and thanks for watching.
I come for the fabrication and stay for the education and tool envy. Great execution Nick.
Thanks!!
thanks for another excellent video Nick. it's great seeing what can be accomplished with just a hammer, dolly and some know-how. a true craftsman at work. this is some of the best metal shaping on RUclips.
Thanks Russell👍
Awesome work Nick!
Glad you enjoyed it Darren!
Great video Nick 👍 really enjoy seeing the weekly update and progress on this project. ..
Nick, you are a metal magician. Fantastic!!
Abra Cadabra! hmm.. she's not done yet :( lol Thanks for watching!
I got LED headlights like that for my 49 Studebaker truck but I didn't like the looks. I wound up finding LEDs that look like the old sealed beam headlights. They are glass not plastic so that was a plus too. I have learned a lot of sheet metal working from you. Keep teaching us.
We'll see how these turn out. Might update them to glass later. It's a 'project' giving me plenty of opportunities to tweak things. Thanks for watching Terry!
Those rings are SWEEEEEET 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Those new rings look a whole heck of a lot better than if you welded the stock ones on. It's all about the flow and you got it right .... for the entire car! Great job. Ignore the naysayers. Looking forward to seeing this car finished! 👍👍👍😃
Thanks, us too 👍 Soon!
This is going to look sweet!
I am really really looking forward to seeing how you actually mount the headlight bucket/assembly into the fender so the light can be aimed and the bulb replaced.
Inserted from inside the wheel well with the adjustment screws flipped to work from the backside. Thanks for watching Larry!
hi nick love what you and your dad have done with that old tub it will be a stunner for sure cant wait for the reveal of the 40 coupe and pickup keep the vids coming dude all the best from scotland
Thank you very much! Soon!
Hi Nick
Frenched you say ? OOOOW LA LA ! 😂
Nice work ! 👍
From Down Under 🦘
Cheers
Andy
😁 Thanks for watching Andy!!
Love your work Nick, thanks for sharing, much appreciated.
My pleasure!
That's looking Damn good, Nick!
Thank you very much!
Great work as ever. I'll come back and use this one day.......
Thank you so much!
Love it man! Looks awesome.
Thank you Greg!
Great video.👍
Glad you enjoyed it Sam!!
Great video and lesson!
thumbs up Nick
Great vid!
Nice job 👍you make it look easy 😂😂
Hey Nick! I've been waiting on this video. I think the front should look mustangish and maybe put a Ford symbol in the circular emblem on the front of the Shoebox-Stang, Let's Go!
Thanks for watching Dwayne!
Nice!!!!! I like it.
Nice job Nick
Thanks Butzi!
Running the video on 2X worked well to make the shrinking get done quickly. Try it. Your arm will thank you.
Haha! Yea, it does help in getting things built faster. Thanks for the tip!
Interesting discussion. I did some testing welds a few weeks ago joining 18 gauge mild steel to 1/8 304 stainless plate using 309LSi rod. Coincidentally long before you made this video. I am not seeing any signs of corrosion beyond what you would get with any bare mild steel and none on the stainless. If you could describe the risks in more detail that would be very helpful. If I were to use all mild steel I know I would have a rust problem in the future anyway, and the stainless shines up so much nicer, so what is the downside? Thank you.
The original rings didn't have the correct shape and under primer/paint no one sees the polished stainless.
@@iNVisionPrototypes Thanks for getting back to me. So are you saying that galvanic corrosion between stainless and mild steel is not that big of an issue in reality?
Curious as to what you are doing for access to the adjustment screws.
Adjustment screws will be flipped and accessed from inside the wheel well. Can reach up inside without pulling the buckets to make adjustments every time.
Looks good Nick ... are you using the halos as signals? ... now when you get that '57 Caddy bumper on it'l pop ... don't for get I called shotgun ...
Yes Sir! Just wait till you see what we do for a bumper-not bumper :D We're getting close Joe! Thanks for watching!!
Meaning of life is 42. Nothing left to think about.
LOL!
So a question if you will...
When you "shrink" the metal is that essentially pinching it together to "pull" it closer? and stretching it is "squashing" it to spread it!???? Or have I got that wrong
Great question, you got it! Don't hesitate to ask questions as you're watching my videos and thanks for watching.
Nick's on the HAMB, then I guess he knows this isn't "traditional," lol.
They over there would love this old girl - before the massage we've given here :D haha!! Even the 'chop' wasn't 'traditional'.. ahh well! Thanks for watching!!
All that effort to save a half a tab !! Then you just cut it off !! Ha ha 😂🤣
You like that eh! Thanks for watching!
not sure why galvanic corrosion would be an issue if they're painted and sealed on the indside. no electrolyte, no corrosion.
Fasteners have a way of cutting through the paint... Worked on enough cars for clients over the years to see them rust from inside out :(
doesn't shrinking that much thin the metal a lot
Hi Warren, great question Sir! When you shrink, you bunch/gather the metal together making it thicker while the stretcher spreads the material apart thereby thinning it out. Think dough. In this case, shrinking the perimeter created less surface area and pushed the inner ring upward. It's always a good practice to shrink and stretch about 50/50 if one can help it. When I rolled the edge that meets the headlight I was stretching over the dolly but not so much that it was paper thin - still lots of body left. Hope that helps and thanks for watching.