I have one of these. I also have a few other 22lr pistols. This one is the best one I've ever owned. Out of thousands of rounds I've had one misfeed in the first mag before cleaning it. It is also much more accurate than it should be given its size.
It is fussy on ammo. I have lots of trouble with Winchester ammo (wich is usually great in other callibers) but, Remington, Aguilla, Federal work pretty good so far.
I bought 2 of these--I've had to send both of mine back to Ruger 4 times until they replace one and finally fixed the other (failures to feed, eject, and continuous jams)--they've replaced barrels, ejectors, firing pins (these pins broke on both guns--wonder if from dry firing--they say no, but they both literally broke off)--I've found they only like CCI Minimags and usually stingers--nothing else. They've been a labor of love, but no other gun has this many rounds with this size--until now--LCP Max.
Great video. Putting back the pin by moving down slide a little bit makes lots of sense. Without playing around the slide, almost impossible to drive the pin in flush. Thanks!
This is a great step by step walk through. BTW I love this piece. It's super accurate and a great size for us females/conceal n carry (and every man I know who's held and fired it has been super impressed as well) Thanks for the tutorial!
I've personally found the "best" tool to lift up the take down pin is my red dot sight adjustment tool. If you don't have one, they're cheap and available multiple places online. Get one like mine that has a metal tip on one end that's about 1/4" long. No way you'll scratch the slide.
Although the book says ok to dry fire, Ruger says that is only to check it out and not meant for dry firing sessions. Their book does not make that clear at all but someone who called Ruger got that answer, don't continually dry fire or it will damage the firing pin.
@@travisp11 I don't know what's wrong with Ruger that they couldn't make that clear in their manual. I only learned it from reading a forum that a guy called Ruger about his broken firing pin and that when Ruger's service dept told him about the limited dry firing. That could be said with just about ALL semi-auto 22's, don't dry fire but just to release the firing pin tension, it really shouldn't hurt anything done occasionally.
@@2fast2block I thought the firing pin isse was only on loder 22lr firearms. You could drop a used 22lr casing in there and pull the trigger as that would at least let the striker/bar stop on something.
@travisp11 for sure. I use those small yellow dry wall 'caps' that work very well for doing my 22 dry firing sessions. They last about 30 to 50 dry fires.
Awesome vid! Not sure if I might be doing it wrong, but when I clean around the firing pin, I dab a patch with isopropyl alcohol instead of a cleaning oil. I'm a little paranoid about getting oil or dirt down the firing pin channel. Then again, Hickok 45 bathes his guns in Ballistol and he never has a problem. LOL... Thanks!
We have found ours likes to be run slightly 'wet', but it does get dirty quicker...the mini-mags okay, but in ours thunderbolts (of all things!) make the gun sing...as noted, after 70-80 rounds fired the gun can be prone to failure due to it getting dirtier and dirtier, but we often reach a hundred without a problem...all that said, we carry revolvers if .22 carried...
@@travisp11 see that perfect for her! She currently has a Taurus. 25, it shoots nice but she has a hard time loading it, pulling the slide back (not that you need to) and a few other difficulties. I appreciate you responding 👍
Great video, much better than the official Ruger video. I'm having feed ramp issues. Also this is the only gun where I have to press the magazine ejection button while inserting a magazine in order for the gun to accept the magazine. This CAN'T be the way this gun is supposed to work, is it??
It sounds like the mag release spring is not how it should be. I would send it in for the feeding ramp issues alone. Small pistols are finicky at best but if it won’t easily feed rounds from the mag, whether you slide release charge it, sling shot the first round or top charge it, it may need to go back.
Bought 1 for my wife because she won't shoot her 380lvp.. because.. "380 ammo is to expensive and hard to find".. I bought it as a training pistol but she loves it & carries both
The BLUE paint on the recoil spring flaked off inside the pistol - - -so be aware of that. Mine is brand new - so I used some HOPPS to clean it. Eventually I bought a new M*Carbo recoil spring and rod - I want to try different type of ammo - standard and hi power and see how it runs at the range. My mags base plate was not installed correctly - so I had to fix that. It's easy to over look that. But if you can only install 9 vs 10 in the mag - - - then you check the base plate and I bet it's wrong. Reinstall it - then you will get 10 in the mag.
Hey Travis. Recently purchased one of these firearms and was sadly disappointed. After about 14 rounds, had a catastrophic failure. Sent the little guy back to Ruger and received a new replacement. Still have a great appreciation for Ruger, but feel the price of this mouse is way too high for what you get. My Phoenix HP22A has been nothing but reliable with all the garbage I feed it. Hopefully the replacement last longer than its predecessor. Cheers
@@travisp11 Maybe Ruger should've focused on 32 acp and started a trend back to a great cartridge. A lot of shooters still appreciate the value 32 acp offers. Its definitely one of my dreams. I have a JA22 as well. Love mouse guns.
Took my brand new lcp2 22lr to the range - worked great at first, ran cci mini mag 40gr ok (no jam) and Aguila super 40 gr copper plated pretty good - jammed on one (might of been the bullet). I did not like the CCI standard LEAD 40gr. Would fire but fail to eject. Was impressed the how accurate it was at 10, 15 and 25 feet. I could be me, light trigger pull or poor hand control...I'll work on it. Any ammo suggestion would be appreciated. Is there a break in period for this pistol?
@@travisp11 Just cleaned it - the blue paint on the recoil spring flaked all over inside the gun - what a mess. I ordered a M*Carbo spring and rod. Shot about 50 rounds - do dirty inside. Had to use a tooth rush - - eventually I got all of it out...well...as much as I could. Your thought on FrogLub?
Have you noticed that the end of the barrel hole is machined biased to the right? You can see this at 8:16. I thought that there was something wrong with mine. But is this a "design feature"? It doesn't shoot straight... :(
@@theclutch19 I assure you it is dead center with the barrel and the gun. Take out the barrel and look at the way the sides are cut different on each side of the chamber. It just looks off center because the hole touches the right side but not the left. That is to give room for the extractor to grab the cartridge rim. I have this gun as well.
@@tritontr20bass I'm afraid not... There are 4 of us that have the same gun. We even put calipers to it. It's off. Even a few videos on YT show the same thing. We'd like to believe it's centered. But plain fact it's NOT. We even went back to the dealer and looked at others and they were all the same. If yours is centered, the only thing I'd tell you is that ours could be an early production flaw. But that would have been A LOT of guns.
Thanks for cleaning info. I have not had a chance to fire my brand new LCP22LR, I noticed some odd, about the slide. Carefully racking back the slide, I noticed a little extra drag, near the End Of Travel. I figured it might be because the recoil spring was getting tightly compressed with the slide all way back. So, I REMOVED the recoil spring, reassembled and cycled the slide.. AH HA! Moving the slide all the way to the rear, I can feel a Very noticeable resistance in the slide before it stops. It's like the slide gets really tight on the rails during the last 1/2 inch of travel. I did a clean and lube, and that last half inch still resists/drags (smoothly). Is this normal? Has anyone else seen this?
@@travisp11 I guess I wasn't clear enough after the part where "I REMOVED the recoil spring," and the binding was still there. Please just take our your recoil spring, reassemble it and see if you have free-travel when the slide is pulled all the way back. I'm dying to know if my pistol has a problem or, it's working normally for this design. I'm going to try to get to the range tomorrow and test fire it. Edit: 2/25/2021 Range day. Afterwards while cleaning, I saw what was causing the drag when the slide was all the way back. It surface of the cocking ramp (bottom side of slide) is coming in contact with the hammer. I watched the back of the hammer while pulling back the slide and the cocking ramp pushes the hammer very low, out of sight actually. So the already cocked hammer sits up where you can see it, but when the slide comes back, the hammer is pushed down (to lock onto the sear), and that was the cause of the drag and the slide feeling so tight on the rails. Ammo Report: The old Bulk box of Winchester (Walmart) must be pretty fast, because it worked really well. My 30+ year old Eley match ammo was low powered and very cycled the LCP2/22 nicely. The Federal "Standard" (low recoil) velocity failed to feel on almost every shot. (But worked great in the T/C .22 carbine). I forgot to take the Federal High velocity ammo. The (2019) High velocity bulk boxes were hiding behind the Federal "Standard" velocity junk. Good reason for another range day! Strange slide locking: I would be shooting a magazine of Winchester, and the slide would lock back, in mid-mag like the mag was empty. I've heard of this bug before RUclips. I know it's not me pushing up on the slide release. The theory was: With perfect timing, the slide-lock bar bounces, when the slide hits the back-Stop and starts back forward, but is stopped by the side stop. So, I wondered if I wasn't holding the pistol tight enough.?. I concentrated on a tight grip, and shot 30 more rounds without the early slide lock. Maybe some heavy gun-grease on that bar might keep it from bouncing.?.
The back end of the slide travel is when it is contacting the hammer to cock it. What you are feeling is the friction between the slide and the hammer face.
@@natebrown4330 I finally figured that out when I came home from the range and cleaned it. I had painted the top of my hammer orange. So I had a 'Cocked" hammer indication that was easy to see. In good light, I watched the 'cocked' hammer disappear down into the frame, as I slowly pulled back the slide, the last 1/2".. Then I removed the slide and looked at the underside. The (center) cocking rail that pushes the hammer back & down, is triangle shaped, and pushes the hammer 'Way' down, (so that engages the sear). Even if it's already down and locked. The pistol worked well with hi-velocity ammo. Not so much with low-vel. After I got home, I found all my Federal Hi-vel ammo, hidden behind the low-vel (standard vel). So, next weekend I'm going to shoot 200 to 400 rnds of that, to break it in a little more.. :) Thanks for your reply Nate! Edit: 5/10/2021 The high velocity Federal HP (Walmart bulk) did the trick. No FTF or any other malfunction at all. I'll use that standard velocity ammo in my rifles and full-sized .22 pistols.
When I clean these I always go over the gun with a dry patch afterwards. Wearing gloves doesn’t help because they are constantly getting residue on the gun itself, combined with the lightning makes the gun look soaked.
I wouldn’t bet that any gun is drop proof but the safety prevents the trigger from pulling. I don’t know if the hammer is blocked by it. It belongs to a family member so I don’t have access to it to check.
You can and I have in a revolver and in a small pistol it isn't as big of a deal as a rifle but if you try to pull the cleaning rod back some people have had them snap off in the barrel. Again, it's not so much of a problem as with small pistols but if you go front to back you risk pushing the crud from the barrel into the guns frame and internals/trigger area
I have had my LCP II 22lr for about a little over a year, fired about 250-300 CCI mini mags through it and it broke. I couldn't pull the trigger., it was like it never reset. Sent it back to Ruger, got it back in less than ten days. They said the trigger bar was replaced. I fired it yesterday (total rounds since I got it back was about 250 -300) and, IT BROKE AGAIN. Same issue, trigger felt like it never reset. Anyone else have these issues? I think Ruger is more intent on getting guns out the door rather than making quality guns. It wasn't like this when Bill Ruger was alive.
That is not good. I’d send it back again and see if the third time gives you better luck. My aunt owns this same firearm and we will see how well it holds up. She may only have about 100 through hers.
I've come to the conclusion that,since so many commenters say that Ruger has such wonderful customer service, many purchasers have had to return their pistols for repair. I owned colts, Smith & Wessons, Remingtons, and Taurus's and never had to return them for repairs. Ruger had better shape up.
I’m sorry, but I think you are making it more complicated than it needs to be. You need a Boresnake, a toothbrush, some oil, and a can of the cheapest brake cleaner you can find. The big difference is using brake cleaner. It won’t hurt the glass-filled Nylon and will dissolve and carry away the carbon buildup. Wear gloves and eye protection and spray outdoors. I walk outside to spray the brake cleaner. The brake cleaner will remove any oil, so you need re-oil. 1. Separate the slide and receiver. 2. Run the Boresnake dry through the bore breech to muzzle a couple of times. 3. Blow some brake cleaner through the bore. 4. Put a few drops of oil on the Boresnake ahead of the brush. Run the bore snake through again a couple of times. 5. Blow brake cleaner through the slide and scrub it with the toothbrush. Pay particular attention to the breech face and extractor. 6. Blow brake cleaner through the lower receiver and scrub it with the toothbrush. Brake cleaner will not hurt the nylon lower receiver. 7. Put a little oil on the contact points; slide rails, all over the outside of the barrel, at the front, the cam surface underneath, and the top where the chamber top contacts the slide, trigger lever. 8. Reassemble. 9. Magazines - hold the magazine upside down. Blow brake cleaner inside it to flush buildup out. Add a little oil inside and push the follower down a few times to spread it around. 10. Wipe gun and magazines with a little oil.
Reading this again, I forgot to mention spray brake cleaner again after scrubbing the slide and receiver with the toothbrush. That will carry any debris you loosen away.
Ruger did a great job with the esthetics of the LCP2. It looks so much better. I can't wait to see how much fun that little pinker is, and how accurate it is at reasonable distance. Also, I use the rim of a spent case to pull those style pins. The soft brass won't damage steel slides (I'm assuming it's steel and not aluminum like the SR22).
It's actually designed (by G. Kellgren, kel-tec's p32 was the gun ruger copied on the lcp series) to remove the cross pin with a spent case rim-- no tools required idea.
I have one of these. I also have a few other 22lr pistols. This one is the best one I've ever owned. Out of thousands of rounds I've had one misfeed in the first mag before cleaning it. It is also much more accurate than it should be given its size.
It is an awesome pistol!
÷3
Mine is accurate too. Popping empty 22 boxes with ease.
Any ammo recommendations?
@@blazeit822 Aguila Interceptor flat nose.
I purchased this Ruger LCP 2 for my wife. Great information . Thank you
Thanks for watching!
The LCP2 (.22LR) is a great little pocket pistol. And this a great disassembly/cleaning/re-assembly video. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
As a new gun owner I appreciate the step by step instruction. I had ejection issues and failure to feed so I hope this will help. Thanks!
Hope this info helps! This gun can be a bit ammo finnicky. We run CCI Mini Mags in ours.
@@travisp11 what is CCI mini mags?
@@travisp11 oh. Got it.
@@agerl7016 CCI is a brand of ammo and they make a 22LR round called Mini Mags. They run well in semi auto firearms
It is fussy on ammo. I have lots of trouble with Winchester ammo (wich is usually great in other callibers) but, Remington, Aguilla, Federal work pretty good so far.
I bought 2 of these--I've had to send both of mine back to Ruger 4 times until they replace one and finally fixed the other (failures to feed, eject, and continuous jams)--they've replaced barrels, ejectors, firing pins (these pins broke on both guns--wonder if from dry firing--they say no, but they both literally broke off)--I've found they only like CCI Minimags and usually stingers--nothing else. They've been a labor of love, but no other gun has this many rounds with this size--until now--LCP Max.
That is a shame they have had that many issues. Yeah, we have only used Mini mags with no issues.
Thanks for the great video! I just cleaned my gun by myself for the first time and it couldn’t have been easier with this
Thanks for watching!
Great video. Putting back the pin by moving down slide a little bit makes lots of sense. Without playing around the slide, almost impossible to drive the pin in flush. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Good cleaning video - he did not over do it. Thank you.
@@brf351c thanks for watching.
This is a great step by step walk through.
BTW I love this piece. It's super accurate and a great size for us females/conceal n carry (and every man I know who's held and fired it has been super impressed as well)
Thanks for the tutorial!
Thanks for watching and yup, 2 of the ladies in my family use these as a daily carry!
I've personally found the "best" tool to lift up the take down pin is my red dot sight adjustment tool. If you don't have one, they're cheap and available multiple places online. Get one like mine that has a metal tip on one end that's about 1/4" long. No way you'll scratch the slide.
Good idea!
This is a great little pocket pistol. And this is a great video on how to clean it.
Thanks for watching!
Although the book says ok to dry fire, Ruger says that is only to check it out and not meant for dry firing sessions. Their book does not make that clear at all but someone who called Ruger got that answer, don't continually dry fire or it will damage the firing pin.
This is good to know!
@@travisp11 I don't know what's wrong with Ruger that they couldn't make that clear in their manual. I only learned it from reading a forum that a guy called Ruger about his broken firing pin and that when Ruger's service dept told him about the limited dry firing. That could be said with just about ALL semi-auto 22's, don't dry fire but just to release the firing pin tension, it really shouldn't hurt anything done occasionally.
@@2fast2block I thought the firing pin isse was only on loder 22lr firearms. You could drop a used 22lr casing in there and pull the trigger as that would at least let the striker/bar stop on something.
@travisp11 for sure. I use those small yellow dry wall 'caps' that work very well for doing my 22 dry firing sessions. They last about 30 to 50 dry fires.
Nice detailed information of how to video. Especially for new gun owners. Nice job. 👍
Thanks for watching!
I have found polishing that feed ramp and HEAVILY lubricating the slides rails keep it from misfeeding/jamming.
Solid suggestion!
This was better than the official Ruger cleaning video, thanks!
Thank you!
Helped alot...thx. Esp the part about re-inserting the pin. That was a little tricky.
Glad to help!
Awesome vid! Not sure if I might be doing it wrong, but when I clean around the firing pin, I dab a patch with isopropyl alcohol instead of a cleaning oil. I'm a little paranoid about getting oil or dirt down the firing pin channel. Then again, Hickok 45 bathes his guns in Ballistol and he never has a problem. LOL... Thanks!
That's fine with the alcohol. That will keep the area clean and dry of solvents. I may start doing the same! Good idea!
I've always been told to not let any oil get in the firing pin or striker opening, too. ??
We have found ours likes to be run slightly 'wet', but it does get dirty quicker...the mini-mags okay, but in ours thunderbolts (of all things!) make the gun sing...as noted, after 70-80 rounds fired the gun can be prone to failure due to it getting dirtier and dirtier, but we often reach a hundred without a problem...all that said, we carry revolvers if .22 carried...
The LCP makes a nice deep conceal piece.
First handgun I ever bought I love it to death even tho it jams...
Keep it clean and run CCI mini mags through it
@@travisp11 I agree - CCI mini mag 40 grain.
Just got one of these. So grateful for this video! Thank you
Glad to help!
Is it possible to blacken that shiny top without adding corrosion or friction? The 380 has a black barrel top.
You can get a glare reducing spray for firearms that is removable.
I think I found the perfect gun for my mom, she struggles with the one she has now.
Slide is easy to manipulate, trigger is smooth like the LCP 2. Load it with 10+1 CCI mini mags and you are good!
@@travisp11 see that perfect for her!
She currently has a Taurus. 25, it shoots nice but she has a hard time loading it, pulling the slide back (not that you need to) and a few other difficulties. I appreciate you responding 👍
My 92 yr old mom can pull the slide on this. The recoil is minimal and the muzzle blast and flash is minimal.
@@n2cycles It is a very light shooter, I agree!
Good video. I like my 22lr LCP. Just got it a few days ago. 👍
Thanks for watching!
Is it reliable?
@@raysrecipe1993 Yes. I find it to be VERY RELIABLE. I would suggest cleaning it after every use.
Instead of using a screwdriver, use the cap from a sharpie. Works just as well and you don't have to worry about scratching the gun.
Good idea! Thanks!
Great video, much better than the official Ruger video.
I'm having feed ramp issues. Also this is the only gun where I have to press the magazine ejection button while inserting a magazine in order for the gun to accept the magazine. This CAN'T be the way this gun is supposed to work, is it??
It sounds like the mag release spring is not how it should be. I would send it in for the feeding ramp issues alone. Small pistols are finicky at best but if it won’t easily feed rounds from the mag, whether you slide release charge it, sling shot the first round or top charge it, it may need to go back.
Bought 1 for my wife because she won't shoot her 380lvp.. because..
"380 ammo is to expensive and hard to find"..
I bought it as a training pistol but she loves it & carries both
Right on!
Nice little gun!
I agree! They get pretty good reviews!
Good video. Thanks for the good views.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you, had to clean some sweat off
Thank you. Very Informative. Well done.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the helpful video.
Thanks for watching!
@@travisp11 a quick question, what size and brand bore snake did you use? Thanks
@@StormWolfET Read Avid Bore Boss, .22LR. I may not have used it in this video but it is what I use now.
The BLUE paint on the recoil spring flaked off inside the pistol - - -so be aware of that. Mine is brand new - so I used some HOPPS to clean it. Eventually I bought a new M*Carbo recoil spring and rod - I want to try different type of ammo - standard and hi power and see how it runs at the range. My mags base plate was not installed correctly - so I had to fix that. It's easy to over look that. But if you can only install 9 vs 10 in the mag - - - then you check the base plate and I bet it's wrong. Reinstall it - then you will get 10 in the mag.
@@brf351c good to know
Hey Travis. Recently purchased one of these firearms and was sadly disappointed. After about 14 rounds, had a catastrophic failure. Sent the little guy back to Ruger and received a new replacement. Still have a great appreciation for Ruger, but feel the price of this mouse is way too high for what you get. My Phoenix HP22A has been nothing but reliable with all the garbage I feed it. Hopefully the replacement last longer than its predecessor. Cheers
I had a Jimenez JA22 that I shot for years and it rarely ever had any issues.
@@travisp11 Maybe Ruger should've focused on 32 acp and started a trend back to a great cartridge. A lot of shooters still appreciate the value 32 acp offers. Its definitely one of my dreams. I have a JA22 as well. Love mouse guns.
@@hellraiser1478 I agree’
Good teacher!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you! Great video!
Thanks for watching!
Success. Good job.. Thanks.
my mom has those same gloves
Thanks!
Took my brand new lcp2 22lr to the range - worked great at first, ran cci mini mag 40gr ok (no jam) and Aguila super 40 gr copper plated pretty good - jammed on one (might of been the bullet). I did not like the CCI standard LEAD 40gr. Would fire but fail to eject. Was impressed the how accurate it was at 10, 15 and 25 feet. I could be me, light trigger pull or poor hand control...I'll work on it. Any ammo suggestion would be appreciated. Is there a break in period for this pistol?
Just keep it clean as much as you can
@@travisp11 Just cleaned it - the blue paint on the recoil spring flaked all over inside the gun - what a mess. I ordered a M*Carbo spring and rod. Shot about 50 rounds - do dirty inside. Had to use a tooth rush - - eventually I got all of it out...well...as much as I could. Your thought on FrogLub?
Have you noticed that the end of the barrel hole is machined biased to the right? You can see this at 8:16. I thought that there was something wrong with mine. But is this a "design feature"? It doesn't shoot straight... :(
Ours shoots spot on. You may want to send yours in
It’s an illusion because of the way the sides are cut. It’s actually dead center.
@@tritontr20bass No, it's not dead center. I have this gun. And all my friend's guns are the same as well.
@@theclutch19 I assure you it is dead center with the barrel and the gun. Take out the barrel and look at the way the sides are cut different on each side of the chamber. It just looks off center because the hole touches the right side but not the left. That is to give room for the extractor to grab the cartridge rim. I have this gun as well.
@@tritontr20bass I'm afraid not... There are 4 of us that have the same gun. We even put calipers to it. It's off. Even a few videos on YT show the same thing. We'd like to believe it's centered. But plain fact it's NOT. We even went back to the dealer and looked at others and they were all the same. If yours is centered, the only thing I'd tell you is that ours could be an early production flaw. But that would have been A LOT of guns.
Very well explained..
Thank you!
Thanks for cleaning info. I have not had a chance to fire my brand new LCP22LR, I noticed some odd, about the slide.
Carefully racking back the slide, I noticed a little extra drag, near the End Of Travel.
I figured it might be because the recoil spring was getting tightly compressed with the slide all way back.
So, I REMOVED the recoil spring, reassembled and cycled the slide.. AH HA!
Moving the slide all the way to the rear, I can feel a Very noticeable resistance in the slide before it stops.
It's like the slide gets really tight on the rails during the last 1/2 inch of travel.
I did a clean and lube, and that last half inch still resists/drags (smoothly). Is this normal? Has anyone else seen this?
May be the recoil spring like you said. It is a very dense coils and under compression I could see it possibly becoming tough to cycle.
@@travisp11 I guess I wasn't clear enough after the part where "I REMOVED the recoil spring," and the binding was still there. Please just take our your recoil spring, reassemble it and see if you have free-travel when the slide is pulled all the way back. I'm dying to know if my pistol has a problem or, it's working normally for this design.
I'm going to try to get to the range tomorrow and test fire it.
Edit: 2/25/2021 Range day. Afterwards while cleaning, I saw what was causing the drag when the slide was all the way back. It surface of the cocking ramp (bottom side of slide) is coming in contact with the hammer.
I watched the back of the hammer while pulling back the slide and the cocking ramp pushes the hammer very low, out of sight actually. So the already cocked hammer sits up where you can see it, but when the slide comes back, the hammer is pushed down (to lock onto the sear), and that was the cause of the drag and the slide feeling so tight on the rails.
Ammo Report: The old Bulk box of Winchester (Walmart) must be pretty fast, because it worked really well.
My 30+ year old Eley match ammo was low powered and very cycled the LCP2/22 nicely.
The Federal "Standard" (low recoil) velocity failed to feel on almost every shot. (But worked great in the T/C .22 carbine).
I forgot to take the Federal High velocity ammo. The (2019) High velocity bulk boxes were hiding behind the Federal "Standard" velocity junk. Good reason for another range day!
Strange slide locking: I would be shooting a magazine of Winchester, and the slide would lock back, in mid-mag like the mag was empty. I've heard of this bug before RUclips. I know it's not me pushing up on the slide release. The theory was: With perfect timing, the slide-lock bar bounces, when the slide hits the back-Stop and starts back forward, but is stopped by the side stop. So, I wondered if I wasn't holding the pistol tight enough.?. I concentrated on a tight grip, and shot 30 more rounds without the early slide lock. Maybe some heavy gun-grease on that bar might keep it from bouncing.?.
The back end of the slide travel is when it is contacting the hammer to cock it. What you are feeling is the friction between the slide and the hammer face.
@@natebrown4330 this is true
@@natebrown4330 I finally figured that out when I came home from the range and cleaned it. I had painted the top of my hammer orange. So I had a 'Cocked" hammer indication that was easy to see.
In good light, I watched the 'cocked' hammer disappear down into the frame, as I slowly pulled back the slide, the last 1/2"..
Then I removed the slide and looked at the underside. The (center) cocking rail that pushes the hammer back & down, is triangle shaped, and pushes the hammer 'Way' down, (so that engages the sear). Even if it's already down and locked.
The pistol worked well with hi-velocity ammo. Not so much with low-vel. After I got home, I found all my Federal Hi-vel ammo, hidden behind the low-vel (standard vel). So, next weekend I'm going to shoot 200 to 400 rnds of that, to break it in a little more.. :) Thanks for your reply Nate!
Edit: 5/10/2021 The high velocity Federal HP (Walmart bulk) did the trick. No FTF or any other malfunction at all.
I'll use that standard velocity ammo in my rifles and full-sized .22 pistols.
That gun looks like you holstered it in a tub of crisco. do we really need so much oil all over the gun?
When I clean these I always go over the gun with a dry patch afterwards. Wearing gloves doesn’t help because they are constantly getting residue on the gun itself, combined with the lightning makes the gun look soaked.
Awesome video 👍
Thanks for watching!
Does the safety also block the hammer? Is it drop proof?
I wouldn’t bet that any gun is drop proof but the safety prevents the trigger from pulling. I don’t know if the hammer is blocked by it. It belongs to a family member so I don’t have access to it to check.
Take it apart and hose it with non chlorinated brake cleaner
Thank you
You are welcome!
So what happens if you clean the barrel from the muzzle down side?
You can and I have in a revolver and in a small pistol it isn't as big of a deal as a rifle but if you try to pull the cleaning rod back some people have had them snap off in the barrel. Again, it's not so much of a problem as with small pistols but if you go front to back you risk pushing the crud from the barrel into the guns frame and internals/trigger area
I have had my LCP II 22lr for about a little over a year, fired about 250-300 CCI mini mags through it and it broke. I couldn't pull the trigger., it was like it never reset. Sent it back to Ruger, got it back in less than ten days. They said the trigger bar was replaced. I fired it yesterday (total rounds since I got it back was about 250 -300) and, IT BROKE AGAIN. Same issue, trigger felt like it never reset. Anyone else have these issues? I think Ruger is more intent on getting guns out the door rather than making quality guns. It wasn't like this when Bill Ruger was alive.
That is not good. I’d send it back again and see if the third time gives you better luck. My aunt owns this same firearm and we will see how well it holds up. She may only have about 100 through hers.
I've come to the conclusion that,since so many commenters say that Ruger has such wonderful customer service, many purchasers have had to return their pistols for repair. I owned colts, Smith & Wessons, Remingtons, and Taurus's and never had to return them for repairs. Ruger had better shape up.
When you are butt naked in the field and have no tools, you can use the top edge of the magazine to get that retention pin out.
This is true.
Too much oil on surface, I don't like slippery guns that leave finger prints.
You can always wipe off the excess
I’m sorry, but I think you are making it more complicated than it needs to be. You need a Boresnake, a toothbrush, some oil, and a can of the cheapest brake cleaner you can find. The big difference is using brake cleaner. It won’t hurt the glass-filled Nylon and will dissolve and carry away the carbon buildup. Wear gloves and eye protection and spray outdoors. I walk outside to spray the brake cleaner. The brake cleaner will remove any oil, so you need re-oil.
1. Separate the slide and receiver.
2. Run the Boresnake dry through the bore breech to muzzle a couple of times.
3. Blow some brake cleaner through the bore.
4. Put a few drops of oil on the Boresnake ahead of the brush. Run the bore snake through again a couple of times.
5. Blow brake cleaner through the slide and scrub it with the toothbrush. Pay particular attention to the breech face and extractor.
6. Blow brake cleaner through the lower receiver and scrub it with the toothbrush. Brake cleaner will not hurt the nylon lower receiver.
7. Put a little oil on the contact points; slide rails, all over the outside of the barrel, at the front, the cam surface underneath, and the top where the chamber top contacts the slide, trigger lever.
8. Reassemble.
9. Magazines - hold the magazine upside down. Blow brake cleaner inside it to flush buildup out. Add a little oil inside and push the follower down a few times to spread it around.
10. Wipe gun and magazines with a little oil.
Everyone does it differently and can adjust accordingly. Thank you for your instructions!
Reading this again, I forgot to mention spray brake cleaner again after scrubbing the slide and receiver with the toothbrush. That will carry any debris you loosen away.
Lol simple 10 steps...oh wait lol
Brake cleaner is nasty stuff. Possible overkill. Travis got it right.
Should I use Synthetic or Conventional Oil?
Ruger did a great job with the esthetics of the LCP2. It looks so much better. I can't wait to see how much fun that little pinker is, and how accurate it is at reasonable distance. Also, I use the rim of a spent case to pull those style pins. The soft brass won't damage steel slides (I'm assuming it's steel and not aluminum like the SR22).
Hopefully gonna try it out this weekend!
I just pulled it out and it sticks to a magnet. :)
Ahhh I just made a comment on how the mag can be used to pry the pin out... Then I seen your comment . :)
It's actually designed (by G. Kellgren, kel-tec's p32 was the gun ruger copied on the lcp series) to remove the cross pin with a spent case rim-- no tools required idea.
Great video, thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks!
Yup!