Thanks for this, i have one if these blue esc guys in a tamiya tt-02b and it was having trouble with cogging at startup so I changed the parameter you suggested and it works way way better- not as smooth as the brushed rig but this is no crawler so it’s totally fine
These are great little budget ESC's. They will handle 4s though not recommended. I've ran the same one on 3s in a brushed to brushless conversion i did for 2 years now. Car has been 76 mph on 3s with that exact 120a ESC. As another stated, change the wires from the ESC to the caps, it helps alot!! Liked and subscribed!
That blue one actually comes with 2 35volt caps which is awesome. I recommend changing the black and red wite going form esc to caps. It's such a small gauge. Doing that and then program will be huge
This design of esc comes from the xerun from hobbywing back in 2010. I still have the 90A sensored version, there was also a 120A version, and they where very popular esc's but hobbywing have a new design of there xerun esc's.
I had this esc and ran it for awhile and ran great. Always ran kinda on the hot side and then 2 days ago it caught fire! Would have burned my entire car if it wasn't for the shitty soldering coming undone and disconnected the battery
@@MightyistheRCGamer No I did not and have never even used 3s on any of my rc cars. I usually run my car between 60%-75% and turned it up to 100% and it fried.
I preferred the earlier version of these cheap Chinese esc’s, when they had the calibration button on the on and off switch, got rid of the cogging real easy. Only problem was when I ran 50c 3s lipo the esc fried itself, even as a 120 amp…
Io ce l’ho a casa e avevo paura a montarlo leggendo i commenti degli acquirenti a cui ha preso fuoco. Ma mi sembra di capire che con 2s il 120A va tranquillo. Mi dai conferma ?
Put a 45 amp one in a car today. I have to set my throttle trim way down to get it to initialize. Any way to calibrate that on these things? About to throw it in the trash. I can get it to work but don't have full throttle either. Why can't they just give some freaking instructions with these things. I have a the programming card.
@MightyistheRCGamer yeah I'll probably trash mine. This thing is awful for sure. Have the start mode on highest setting and it still needs a "push" to get going. The manual(if that's what you wanna call it) that came with mine says 2S instead of 2-3s. Which I was running a 2S. It's junk.
@@MightyistheRCGamer What 45A 3S esc would you recommend? It's in a cheap JJRC Q117 1/16 scale so don't wanna put an outrageous expensive in it. From what I'm seeing is these cheapo esc are hit and miss.
@@kevb1050 I recommend a 45 amp that will do great. But I bought a 60 amp esc from Amazon it works super well It is all white and came with the motor for $60
Great video! I just got this same combo and am having an issue with this card and esc. I connect all properly. But, the the top and bottom lights slowly cycle 1-10 over and over. Thanks in advance for any help!
have you had a issue with the car losing power before the battery should be dead? mine seems to drop 50 percent power after about 7-8 minutes and the battery should run 20 minutes i have a new zeee 2s 5200mah batt
@@arcaderacer586 if you are messing around with these cheap China ESC they always set the battery cut off at around 7.5 so that is why you have set the battery cut off to at 3.5 per battery
Near the end you say your issue is it's too big. Same with me. I'm trying to fit mine into a 1/16. I have a 60a esc. And a 2845 motor. The car I'm upgrading has standoffs in my way and my words are where you're like them to be and let me tell you; I'm still trying to find a way. Even seeing it in top of my chassis brace, the fan is just to high. You can set your motor on it's side with those motor wires on the bottom. That's where i wish my wires were.... Just like yours. Wanna switch? Lol
@@MightyistheRCGamer ooh, n that case then it is cheap lol. Yeah I was rushing as an eager beginner. I'm passed the making tracks and ready to start learning about upgrading and rushed to the biggest motor I can fit inside over of my 1/16. I stayed away from the convos cause ppl always said "each was trash" in the comments so I searched for 60a cause I couldn't find any 40a and felt like 60 amp would be good for the entire system to be put into 1/10 when I get there. I'm gonna check out your recommendation and comment back here whenever I get around to it. I won't forget, or someone bump this
my arma granite 3s has the same delay start setting, they say its to prevent the brushless motor from binding under the extra force the brushless motor. the brushed motors do not need the delay. the brushless has so much power it can damage the motor from the full power fwd/rev press. idk thats what they say LOL who knows
It depends which arrma you have there are older ones and newer ones I have some of the newer arrmas so they don't have this issue but they are not up to full power but yes you are correct if your arrma has that issue then it is because it will either bust the shaft on the motor or it will destroy the differentials very fast
@@MightyistheRCGamer i also just installed a cheap $30 brushless combo on my Older 2wd stampede. It has the same Delay but im leaving it alone. It rips much faster now. LOL. I ziptied a 8oz socket to the bumper and it keeps the wheelies down. Im loving it
@@arcaderacer586 if you don't like the delay it is because the start mode is just too low every one of these China brushless combos have this issue you will have to have a program card no matter what if you are buying brushless ESCs you do not want to leave out the program card it is a very vital part of your mission
@@MightyistheRCGamer im sure its set with the delay to keep everyone from breaking parts and thats why im leavimg mine alone. I am not overly fond of wrenching daily LOL
Wait, so, the little white thin ones dont work on goolrc? Thats the one I bought and it has a blue flashing light on it, do you know what that mean? Whatever it means it must be bad because the programmer does not program, it just has the lights on it and none of the button work, Please help!
It's because when you are buying an ESC you have to read everything in the description sometimes they will tell you if the settings have 1 through 18 or 1 through 4 you probably have the goolRC that is 1 through 18 not 1 through 4 so your program card is incompatible... The program card you have is the old one they are not even selling ESCs with that setup anymore the settings are 1 - 18
my problem is I have to push forward on the trigger to go forward. so I got that reverse now it's slow. reverse is fast af. is there anything I can do. same thing when I switched wires around.
@@MightyistheRCGamer I did what you said and kept the middle wire and played with the card. It works very well. Thanks alot. Now it's even faster. Even on 2s. It's alot for me to handle lol. 3s is gonna be in soon.
@@theunknownone5663 just Remember you always keep the middle wire the same and only change the other 2 wires.... I am happy your got the problem fixed my friend
You connect your battery to the RC car like you're going to use it then you disconnect the ESC from your receiver and plug it into the programming card. On the top of the programming card you will see a negative and a positive sign connect the ESC the correct way and it will turn on the programming card
Hey, hopefully you can help me .I have that exact esc amd I had a black program card for it but when I plug it in and power it on the lights just flash both rows at the same time from 1-10 and they just keep doing that so I even went to the trouble of ordering a new one, thinking maybe it was shot and the new program card does the same thing what's going on here? How do I fix this, the thing has serious lag and I need to adjust the start mode way up amd I can't.
There are 2 versions of this ESC one uses a small programming card with 1-4 and the newer ESC uses a programming card 1-18 if the ESC isn't working with yours its probably because you have the older ESC that uses 1-4.... Just get rid of that ESC it's complete Garbage mine burned out after the video on a 2s lipo these ESCs are not cheap in price by luck they are cheap because they are Garbage
@@MightyistheRCGamer thank you for the reply, I tried resetting it with the button but it keeps beeping like it isn’t connected with the receiver, I know the receiver works fine
@@joelshrestha8054 yes... buy something more expensive and I promise you won't have problems.... cheap is cheap for a reason because it's garbage. A real esc cost $50
You buy the cheapest esc on the market and then you don't like it. I've been running that exact same esc for over a year and It's been keeping my 144001 fast and powerful. Remember. Don't go bash with it... I do three speed passes and let it cool down.
@@knightdeluxegaming Today I will make a video of what you ask me to do.. When I make the the video can I use your username and say you ask about going really slow on grass and rocks
Hello I have the same programming card and esc and after connecting it does not connect, and I acted as in the video. The card was not purchased with the esc, only separately. -- Is there a difference between cards. Please let me know how to pay it. Thank you Maciej I'm picking up Berlin 01/27/2023
Had similar issue had to really push connections down to the pins with some force sometimes while im programming to keep it connected needless to say esc still cogged with proper gearing and good motor
@The RC Gamer This happened to me on this same ESC with the programme card, I got owned by the stupid paper chart, now I just get beeping, I even did a reset, same shit, then I followed your instruction, i got it working, I went to charge up a 2s lipo, installed the lipo, and it went back to the same old beeping from hell ffs, guys do not use this paper chart.
@@MightyistheRCGamer LOL, I had a spare one, which I did not use the programming card on, works perfectly fine, I just installed in the buggy, the old one meh, I will give it some tests in the raw way lipo/brushless motor/esc/ to test throttle and brake.
@The RC Gamer yea I have a 80a surpass hobby in my tt02 its never let me down either might go for it again tbf I only got the gool rc because it was £30 on amazon UK, its absolutely shiyte cogs like a fukin steam train and gets hot just idling
@@MightyistheRCGamer The punch level/start level. Why not just put it on the highest setting given these ESC's are known for their delay/cogging off the line?
The programmable charts are on the back of the program card if you can't see it then take a picture of it with your cellphone and blow it up so you can see the charts
@@digeolrc8586 Remember you can do anything as long as you read up on it I am a video game collector/Player I taught myself everything with 1 billion RUclips videos. But here is a video with charts I Should of sent you this video first AND FOR THAT I AM SORRY ruclips.net/video/x9Rog_HlDGM/видео.html
Because there are 2 types of this ESC one you need a program card the other ESC looks the same but you can program it with the little button on the on and off switch I don't have that version or the ESC chart for that version because you need a HobbyWing manual
Well your wrong because I already changed it settings and it made a difference so I think you are incorrect because I would believe you if I connected my program card and changed the settings and it did nothing then you would be right but that's not the case... Who cares I am going to get rid of this ESC ASAP
BRO HELP! I have 18 choices but the diagram list on the back of the programming card? What do I do? I can find y place by going to a selection that only offers two choices. Option #14 is at location #15... You say it is easy? OK, not when there is a gap in the sequence of the list and choices.
@@MightyistheRCGamer thank you very much! I understand that you do not change as many parameters and now I understand your comments. If you look closely as some of the options that are available to you you can literally lock out or malfunction the speed controller because you will have let's just take setting the minimal breaking force and then the next step is the options to maximize the braking Force. Now there is possibly and I'm looking at it now, a way to set it up where you will actually have no breaking force at all neither on the low side or the high side because you have overlapped two of your options. I don't know if that makes sense but you can with the available choices to you literally locked out or hide, a feature by underlapping or overlapping the optional choice you make this sounds nuts. Here's an example set the maximum breaking force to 15% set the minimum breaking force to 25%. See what I mean the
I think iPhone might be made in another country. If you type in the search bar of RUclips how iPhones are made you will see that it is SLAVE LABOR they literally give people $8 a month to make the iPhones for them
![Hobbywing Quicrun 150A Regler Programieren Deutsch [FullHD]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ppa5p2EfkCI/mqdefault.jpg)
![Hobbywing Quicrun 150A Regler Programieren Deutsch [FullHD]](/img/tr.png)
Thanks for this, i have one if these blue esc guys in a tamiya tt-02b and it was having trouble with cogging at startup so I changed the parameter you suggested and it works way way better- not as smooth as the brushed rig but this is no crawler so it’s totally fine
These are great little budget ESC's. They will handle 4s though not recommended. I've ran the same one on 3s in a brushed to brushless conversion i did for 2 years now. Car has been 76 mph on 3s with that exact 120a ESC. As another stated, change the wires from the ESC to the caps, it helps alot!! Liked and subscribed!
Programé y murio el BEC 😂😂😂
Muchas gracias por el video🎉🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
bro thank you so much just got it and been having this problem thanks
All the Thanks go's to you brother
I have a question what would happen if u put it to level 10
@@alexroffey7821 Nothing it will just respond better but I always leave it on 8 so it doesn't tear up the diffs
OK thank you just wanted to know cus I order it today and is coming tomorrow and wondered what would happen but thank you for the help
@@alexroffey7821 No problem my friend. Have fun
That blue one actually comes with 2 35volt caps which is awesome. I recommend changing the black and red wite going form esc to caps. It's such a small gauge. Doing that and then program will be huge
Are these programming cards universal or brand specific?
This design of esc comes from the xerun from hobbywing back in 2010. I still have the 90A sensored version, there was also a 120A version, and they where very popular esc's but hobbywing have a new design of there xerun esc's.
Thank you sooooooooo much ❤
HELLO I HAVE THE SAME EXACT AND I CANT GET MY TO TURN THE LIGHT ON ON THE PROGRAM CARD TO COME ON AT ALL
I had this esc and ran it for awhile and ran great. Always ran kinda on the hot side and then 2 days ago it caught fire! Would have burned my entire car if it wasn't for the shitty soldering coming undone and disconnected the battery
Because you used 3s
@@MightyistheRCGamer No I did not and have never even used 3s on any of my rc cars. I usually run my car between 60%-75% and turned it up to 100% and it fried.
I preferred the earlier version of these cheap Chinese esc’s, when they had the calibration button on the on and off switch, got rid of the cogging real easy. Only problem was when I ran 50c 3s lipo the esc fried itself, even as a 120 amp…
I never run 3s on any cheap 120 amp ESC unless it's surpass hobby
Goolrc I always was under the impression it and Surpass were the same manufacturer
@@amberwilliams9950 No they different
I have had this ESC for 5 years never failed. only run 2s on it never overheats
Been running this one on 3s for months, no issues of yet.
Io ce l’ho a casa e avevo paura a montarlo leggendo i commenti degli acquirenti a cui ha preso fuoco. Ma mi sembra di capire che con 2s il 120A va tranquillo. Mi dai conferma ?
Put a 45 amp one in a car today. I have to set my throttle trim way down to get it to initialize. Any way to calibrate that on these things? About to throw it in the trash. I can get it to work but don't have full throttle either. Why can't they just give some freaking instructions with these things. I have a the programming card.
I put a real esc after this went out on 2:days of uses
@MightyistheRCGamer yeah I'll probably trash mine. This thing is awful for sure. Have the start mode on highest setting and it still needs a "push" to get going. The manual(if that's what you wanna call it) that came with mine says 2S instead of 2-3s. Which I was running a 2S. It's junk.
@@kevb1050 yes mine burned out the next day on 2s so I bought something way better
@@MightyistheRCGamer What 45A 3S esc would you recommend? It's in a cheap JJRC Q117 1/16 scale so don't wanna put an outrageous expensive in it. From what I'm seeing is these cheapo esc are hit and miss.
@@kevb1050 I recommend a 45 amp that will do great. But I bought a 60 amp esc from Amazon it works super well It is all white and came with the motor for $60
All ESC are made in China dude. castle , firma, reedy . All ESCs bro
I know that everything that the u s sells is made in china samsung sony. But there is different kinds of China products the real thing and copy cats
Great video! I just got this same combo and am having an issue with this card and esc. I connect all properly. But, the the top and bottom lights slowly cycle 1-10 over and over. Thanks in advance for any help!
I have the exact same problem, do you already know a reason for this?
I have the same problem can anybody help me???
Soo do I, anybody got any solutions?
have you had a issue with the car losing power before the battery should be dead? mine seems to drop 50 percent power after about 7-8 minutes and the battery should run 20 minutes i have a new zeee 2s 5200mah batt
What ESC are you using and did you program the ESC?
I been messing around with it. Yes. I set start to 6 and fwd and rev to 6 and left the rest alone
@@arcaderacer586 if you are messing around with these cheap China ESC they always set the battery cut off at around 7.5 so that is why you have set the battery cut off to at 3.5 per battery
@@arcaderacer586 SET NUMBER 13 TO 3.3 PROBLEM SOLVED
@@arcaderacer586 please let me know if this helped
hello can you upload a scan or a photo of the paper?
Near the end you say your issue is it's too big. Same with me. I'm trying to fit mine into a 1/16. I have a 60a esc. And a 2845 motor. The car I'm upgrading has standoffs in my way and my words are where you're like them to be and let me tell you; I'm still trying to find a way. Even seeing it in top of my chassis brace, the fan is just to high.
You can set your motor on it's side with those motor wires on the bottom. That's where i wish my wires were.... Just like yours. Wanna switch? Lol
Sometimes you just have to get creative or you might need a small hobby hobbywing ESC I seen one on Amazon for cheap I believe it was $45 dollars
I just checked it's actually $38 but Sensor. But if it doesn't fit you could always use a 35 Amp ESC brushless and it will be just as fast
@@MightyistheRCGamer may need a smaller motor too. i
@@Mike_Greene or you can buy the dynamite ESC and motor in one
It has both built-in the motor
@@MightyistheRCGamer ooh, n that case then it is cheap lol. Yeah I was rushing as an eager beginner. I'm passed the making tracks and ready to start learning about upgrading and rushed to the biggest motor I can fit inside over of my 1/16. I stayed away from the convos cause ppl always said "each was trash" in the comments so I searched for 60a cause I couldn't find any 40a and felt like 60 amp would be good for the entire system to be put into 1/10 when I get there. I'm gonna check out your recommendation and comment back here whenever I get around to it. I won't forget, or someone bump this
my arma granite 3s has the same delay start setting, they say its to prevent the brushless motor from binding under the extra force the brushless motor. the brushed motors do not need the delay. the brushless has so much power it can damage the motor from the full power fwd/rev press. idk thats what they say LOL who knows
It depends which arrma you have there are older ones and newer ones I have some of the newer arrmas so they don't have this issue but they are not up to full power but yes you are correct if your arrma has that issue then it is because it will either bust the shaft on the motor or it will destroy the differentials very fast
@@MightyistheRCGamer i also just installed a cheap $30 brushless combo on my
Older 2wd stampede. It has the same
Delay but im leaving it alone. It rips much faster now. LOL. I ziptied a 8oz socket to the bumper and it keeps the wheelies down. Im loving it
@@arcaderacer586 if you don't like the delay it is because the start mode is just too low every one of these China brushless combos have this issue you will have to have a program card no matter what if you are buying brushless ESCs you do not want to leave out the program card it is a very vital part of your mission
@@MightyistheRCGamer im sure its set with the delay to keep everyone from breaking parts and thats why im leavimg mine alone. I am not overly fond of wrenching daily LOL
@@arcaderacer586 as long as your happy bro That's all that matters
Do you need a receiver for that speaking controller?I got the same one I can't get it to work.I don't know what's wrong with it
Speaking controller? I don't understand
Wait, so, the little white thin ones dont work on goolrc? Thats the one I bought and it has a blue flashing light on it, do you know what that mean? Whatever it means it must be bad because the programmer does not program, it just has the lights on it and none of the button work, Please help!
It's because when you are buying an ESC you have to read everything in the description sometimes they will tell you if the settings have 1 through 18 or 1 through 4 you probably have the goolRC that is 1 through 18 not 1 through 4 so your program card is incompatible... The program card you have is the old one they are not even selling ESCs with that setup anymore the settings are 1 - 18
@@MightyistheRCGamer well that sucks
@@MightyistheRCGamer and just to make sure, the one you have, is the one i need, correct?
my problem is I have to push forward on the trigger to go forward.
so I got that reverse now it's slow.
reverse is fast af. is there anything I can do. same thing when I switched wires around.
If switch the wires always keep the middle wire the same only switching the other 2 wires.... you do realize this could be fixed with a program card
@@MightyistheRCGamer not entirely good with the card yet. Still learning I only learned about reversing it by watching this video
one watch this video it has a value sheet
ruclips.net/video/x9Rog_HlDGM/видео.html
@@MightyistheRCGamer I did what you said and kept the middle wire and played with the card. It works very well. Thanks alot. Now it's even faster. Even on 2s. It's alot for me to handle lol. 3s is gonna be in soon.
@@theunknownone5663 just Remember you always keep the middle wire the same and only change the other 2 wires.... I am happy your got the problem fixed my friend
Where do u get the cord to hook up to it I just bought the card and can't use it what so ever there's no cord with it
You connect your battery to the RC car like you're going to use it then you disconnect the ESC from your receiver and plug it into the programming card. On the top of the programming card you will see a negative and a positive sign connect the ESC the correct way and it will turn on the programming card
Please let me know if this helps you
Please let me know if this helps you
The ESC is awesome the cogging has to do with the gearing.
how do you shut off the aceleration delay,it takes off so slow no punch at all! ?
Don't get owned by this you can do it.. You're going to have to change your start mode to all the way till about 8 or 9 problem fixed
What brand and type is the ESC? What brands are supported by this programming card? Specifically, can this be used with Racerstar ESCs?
This is a clone program card of the Hobbywing and now all ESCs use this program card no more of those little program cards
CENTAURUS RC Brushless Speed Controller for 1/8 1/10 1/12 RC Car Crawler 45A 60A 80A 120A PCB Plate Speed Controller Brushless ESC
@@MightyistheRCGameri bought the same esc but 80a
Hey, hopefully you can help me .I have that exact esc amd I had a black program card for it but when I plug it in and power it on the lights just flash both rows at the same time from 1-10 and they just keep doing that so I even went to the trouble of ordering a new one, thinking maybe it was shot and the new program card does the same thing what's going on here? How do I fix this, the thing has serious lag and I need to adjust the start mode way up amd I can't.
There are 2 versions of this ESC one uses a small programming card with 1-4 and the newer ESC uses a programming card 1-18 if the ESC isn't working with yours its probably because you have the older ESC that uses 1-4.... Just get rid of that ESC it's complete Garbage mine burned out after the video on a 2s lipo these ESCs are not cheap in price by luck they are cheap because they are Garbage
How can i tell the Difference?@@MightyistheRCGamer
@@Felix-gv3su ? Please explain more
@@MightyistheRCGamer How can i tell the difference betwen a New and an old version esc?
@Felix-gv3su you can't your ESC will come with a paper
My esc stopped working after trying to program it. The servo still works but the motor keeps beeping
If your esc is super cheap then programing it will mess it up so connect it again and press the rest button on the program card
@@MightyistheRCGamer thank you for the reply, I tried resetting it with the button but it keeps beeping like it isn’t connected with the receiver, I know the receiver works fine
@@joelshrestha8054 remember cheap esc don't like being programed
@@MightyistheRCGamer so there’s nothing else I can do but return?
@@joelshrestha8054 yes... buy something more expensive and I promise you won't have problems.... cheap is cheap for a reason because it's garbage. A real esc cost $50
Good info. 2:30
3:13 more good info you'd want to but don't usually here in these types of videos
You buy the cheapest esc on the market and then you don't like it. I've been running that exact same esc for over a year and It's been keeping my 144001 fast and powerful. Remember. Don't go bash with it... I do three speed passes and let it cool down.
Mine is still running to this day but I will never use 3s but 2s will run all day long
Where can I get the configuration sheet, it didn't come with the programmer.
did you use safe this ecs on 3s battery?
NO
Can you test it on rocks or grass to see if still can manage slow speed without cogging
Sure I will... I know you need answers so I will test the ESC on grass dirt and ROCKS
@@MightyistheRCGamer Thanks man, im looking into it. hopefully i can your video this week
@@knightdeluxegaming Today I will make a video of what you ask me to do.. When I make the the video can I use your username and say you ask about going really slow on grass and rocks
Is it 4s lipo support?
Hello
I have the same programming card and esc and after connecting it does not connect, and I acted as in the video.
The card was not purchased with the esc, only separately.
-- Is there a difference between cards.
Please let me know how to pay it.
Thank you
Maciej
I'm picking up
Berlin 01/27/2023
Had similar issue had to really push connections down to the pins with some force sometimes while im programming to keep it connected needless to say esc still cogged with proper gearing and good motor
@The RC Gamer This happened to me on this same ESC with the programme card, I got owned by the stupid paper chart, now I just get beeping, I even did a reset, same shit, then I followed your instruction, i got it working, I went to charge up a 2s lipo, installed the lipo, and it went back to the same old beeping from hell ffs, guys do not use this paper chart.
Keep in mind that the ESC in this video DIED on me just days after I purchased it
@@MightyistheRCGamer LOL, I had a spare one, which I did not use the programming card on, works perfectly fine, I just installed in the buggy, the old one meh, I will give it some tests in the raw way lipo/brushless motor/esc/ to test throttle and brake.
@@monkeytrident some older ESC are only 1-4 in the program card and the newer ESC are now 1-18. I just glad your fixing your ESCs
@@MightyistheRCGamer this one was 1 - 18 even though most of them is not needed.
Mine is just beeping but the servo works. This happened after I programmed it. Is my esc bricked?
Is start mode the punch??
Yes... If you do not change start me it will COG on you in the grass or in dirt
@@MightyistheRCGamer cheers boss
@@MightyistheRCGamer im kind of guessing these gool rc esc motor combos are a waste of money, probably gunna just stick a hobbywing in
@@Mikedysonx or you could try surpass hobby they never let me down but Gool RC is garbage mine died in 3 days on 2s only complete trash
@The RC Gamer yea I have a 80a surpass hobby in my tt02 its never let me down either might go for it again tbf I only got the gool rc because it was £30 on amazon UK, its absolutely shiyte cogs like a fukin steam train and gets hot just idling
I need your help with mine please. I'm desperate. No one else knows what to do for me.
U can p.m. me to get in touch
What's Your Problem?
Do you know what 15 and 16 do ?
I am not sure at the moment but I did make a video. I really hope the helps you out
ruclips.net/video/x9Rog_HlDGM/видео.html
What happens if the lights r just blinking on the program card
Is it the same program card?
Why not start level 10?
?
@@MightyistheRCGamer
The punch level/start level. Why not just put it on the highest setting given these ESC's are known for their delay/cogging off the line?
@@druscanam because it's always better to be safe than sorry
I bought the program card, but I didn't get the table paper
PLEASE UNDERSTAND THE PAPER COMES WITH THE ESC NOT THE PROGRAM CARD
The programmable charts are on the back of the program card if you can't see it then take a picture of it with your cellphone and blow it up so you can see the charts
@@MightyistheRCGamer thanks for your information
@@digeolrc8586 Remember you can do anything as long as you read up on it I am a video game collector/Player I taught myself everything with 1 billion RUclips videos. But here is a video with charts I Should of sent you this video first AND FOR THAT I AM SORRY
ruclips.net/video/x9Rog_HlDGM/видео.html
Can you fix it without a program card
Why would you ask that if I just told you you need a program card. If you don't have a program card THEN JUST THROW THE RC IN THE TRASH
@@MightyistheRCGamer trying to find a way around it i have 2 program card and they dont work
Remember that sheet is incorrect…
Do you own this ESC?
@@MightyistheRCGamer esc and programmer
Because there are 2 types of this ESC one you need a program card the other ESC looks the same but you can program it with the little button on the on and off switch I don't have that version or the ESC chart for that version because you need a HobbyWing manual
@@MightyistheRCGamer the programmer is the issue… The sheet is wrong
Well your wrong because I already changed it settings and it made a difference so I think you are incorrect because I would believe you if I connected my program card and changed the settings and it did nothing then you would be right but that's not the case... Who cares I am going to get rid of this ESC ASAP
BRO HELP! I have 18 choices but the diagram list on the back of the programming card? What do I do? I can find y place by going to a selection that only offers two choices. Option #14 is at location #15... You say it is easy? OK, not when there is a gap in the sequence of the list and choices.
I never change as many options as you but see if this video CHART helps
ruclips.net/video/x9Rog_HlDGM/видео.html
@@MightyistheRCGamer thank you very much! I understand that you do not change as many parameters and now I understand your comments. If you look closely as some of the options that are available to you you can literally lock out or malfunction the speed controller because you will have let's just take setting the minimal breaking force and then the next step is the options to maximize the braking Force. Now there is possibly and I'm looking at it now, a way to set it up where you will actually have no breaking force at all neither on the low side or the high side because you have overlapped two of your options. I don't know if that makes sense but you can with the available choices to you literally locked out or hide, a feature by underlapping or overlapping the optional choice you make this sounds nuts. Here's an example set the maximum breaking force to 15% set the minimum breaking force to 25%. See what I mean the
iphone also made in china even hobbywing
I think iPhone might be made in another country. If you type in the search bar of RUclips how iPhones are made you will see that it is SLAVE LABOR they literally give people $8 a month to make the iPhones for them
I just ordered the new black version anyone else use thay yet?