Interesting stuff. I'd be tempted to put the first boards on horizontally then you'd only have one centre join to tape on the larger wall. Just a thought.
Thanks for the comment. This is the only wall that connects to another bedroom. It was being done up as an HMO so I wanted as much privacy between the rooms as possible. It's a 1st floor bedroom so the existing ceiling stayed as its only attic above. I had to make the other room slightly bigger so that's why there's another stud in behind but that came down as soon as the wall was finished..
Unfortunately, this will do next to nothing for sound transmission. Resilient channel provides almost no reduction in STI and what it does is a narrow part of the spectrum. Certainly helps to flatten out a ceiling.
Thanks for your comment. I must say its been up and running for a couple years now and feedback is very positive. Possibly resilient bars on there own but with a double layer of soundboard plus the acoustic insulation between the stud it's fantastic..
So much wrong with this video, over 37 years in the trade and you have me shaking my head over here. 1. Resilient C channel should be installed on side walls with all attachments facing up, you installed them upside down. Adhesive rubber pads could be used at attachment points for better rating. 2. When installing drywall to resilient C channel, drywall screws should be placed no where near the studs, they could protrude into them, negating the sound proofing. A higher rating is achieved by using adhesive rubber strips on the resilient channel. On a side note, you were correct in leaving air gaps and top, side, and bottom for sound caulk. 3. First layer should be sound caulked, and sealed at all joints with rubber adhesive strips (including areas that the next layer will screw to). This allows for air sealant, and gives an air space between sound board to allow for flex and reduce sound waves. 4. Yes, you should offset all joints on second layer, you were also correct in hanging the drywall perpendicular to the resilient C channel is not recommended. Screws should be at least 2 1/2" in length and make sure you don't screw where wood studs or plates are. 5. Run acoustic caulk around gaps at bottom, sides and top of wall.
Thanks for your comment. Good couple points and i like the idea of the rubber padding on the timbers at fixing points. I did however install the channels as per the manufacturers instructions and they were installed the correct way up so I would advise for you to definitely look into it as you would have been doing it incorrectly if you were installing them the other way round.
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Interesting stuff. I'd be tempted to put the first boards on horizontally then you'd only have one centre join to tape on the larger wall. Just a thought.
Thanks for your comment..
Are the rest of the walls and ceiling sound resistant? What purpose is the sound resistance?
Thanks for the comment. This is the only wall that connects to another bedroom. It was being done up as an HMO so I wanted as much privacy between the rooms as possible. It's a 1st floor bedroom so the existing ceiling stayed as its only attic above. I had to make the other room slightly bigger so that's why there's another stud in behind but that came down as soon as the wall was finished..
Unfortunately, this will do next to nothing for sound transmission. Resilient channel provides almost no reduction in STI and what it does is a narrow part of the spectrum.
Certainly helps to flatten out a ceiling.
Thanks for your comment. I must say its been up and running for a couple years now and feedback is very positive. Possibly resilient bars on there own but with a double layer of soundboard plus the acoustic insulation between the stud it's fantastic..
actually, if installed correctly like I stated above, it will help, but the wall cavity should also be filled with sound insulation.
So much wrong with this video, over 37 years in the trade and you have me shaking my head over here.
1. Resilient C channel should be installed on side walls with all attachments facing up, you installed them upside down. Adhesive rubber pads could be used at attachment points for better rating.
2. When installing drywall to resilient C channel, drywall screws should be placed no where near the studs, they could protrude into them, negating the sound proofing. A higher rating is achieved by using adhesive rubber strips on the resilient channel. On a side note, you were correct in leaving air gaps and top, side, and bottom for sound caulk.
3. First layer should be sound caulked, and sealed at all joints with rubber adhesive strips (including areas that the next layer will screw to). This allows for air sealant, and gives an air space between sound board to allow for flex and reduce sound waves.
4. Yes, you should offset all joints on second layer, you were also correct in hanging the drywall perpendicular to the resilient C channel is not recommended. Screws should be at least 2 1/2" in length and make sure you don't screw where wood studs or plates are.
5. Run acoustic caulk around gaps at bottom, sides and top of wall.
Thanks for your comment.
Good couple points and i like the idea of the rubber padding on the timbers at fixing points. I did however install the channels as per the manufacturers instructions and they were installed the correct way up so I would advise for you to definitely look into it as you would have been doing it incorrectly if you were installing them the other way round.