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For me, yes. I've been buying Vivobarefoot in EU 43 for about 10 years. I bought these in EU 43, and they fit about the same as a non-winter Vivobarefoot. They look a little longer than the Vivobarefoot when I hold them next to each other.

I try

I've just stopped recently wearing them. They are still solid but I've been wearing the barefeet shoes all the time and my feet have got wider so now they are a bit to small and uncomfortable. Will get a larger pair though as they were great..

@@tobysallthings-property6798 Thank you! How long did it take you to wear them in? 20 mins in them and I got blisters

@Maizeak to be honest they were great from the start..I'm.wandering if you need a slightly larger pair. Because the way mine feel now is quite uncomfortable and I think it's just because my feet have spread out more...

@@Maizeak Are they worn in now? Where did you get blisters? I got ankle the first time.

@@clintpatty I got blisters on both big toes, really bad area to get them. coudnt say whether there worn in as I dont use them that often, but certainly better than when they were new.

Hi. The adhesive I used is in the video. I would use what the manufacturer recommends for this product rather then standard paste. Yes still all looks good. I would not reccomend painting straight on the thermal lining paper do at least a layer of standard wallpaper lining. That's all I did then painted it. However it does.in the instruction reccomend a finish wall paper also. Just fill the joints.with a light filler first and any dents from being installed. Good luck with your project..

Great comment. You probably know this already as I'm sure your a seasoned professional but yes you can take up to 2 trays worth of brick out without support some clever persons has worked out that the brickwork up to this length will self support. But happy for you to share any referencing documentation that says this is wrong..

Always check with local planning before you start anything like this and seek a professionals advice. Other things would be to make sure you can get at least the minimum room size as stated by your local council and as much natural light/ventilation as possible. If its a separate garage plenty of insulation. Also look at getting a separate fuse board for the area and put in a little digital meter which gives you an indication of the electric its using in case you want to separate it from your main bill. Hope this helps and good luck

I find the local planning departments are usually pretty helpful and something like that you would need to ask them directly as it differs between councils. I would say if you are making it self contained and its not linked to the property at all then usually planning would be required as far as I know. I would also always use building regulations.

I would always recommend getting at least 3 quotes in for something like this. With regards to planning speak to your local planning office about it but they usually need an application filled out and a drawing to go alongside the application. Then building regulations also.

Thanks for the comment. Good to hear the finish is great with the 2 coats of paper. I used just a lining paper over the thermal paper and even that on its own looks good. Yes can easily be dented that is a downside..

I'm doing the same Barry, about to start on Georgian townhouses that had already been converted (badly) into flats. Hoping to sound deaden and proof it out as much as I can without giving the existing ceilings and floors too much weight to bare and without breaking the bank doing so. Was hoping to come across a video of someone's thorough step by step. Was hoping to find somewhere in the UK that sells 'Sonopan' but it seems its only available in Canada. If anybody knows of any alternatives that will be great. Good luck in your project also

It would be good if you could speak to a structural engineer about what extra load could be placed on the existing joist. The other option is just to stick to the insulation infill, and the tape on top of the joists, then a thin rubber matting and carpet..

Thanks for the comment. You will need to speak to the manufacturer to confirm this. But I am certain fibre cement board can not soley be used as finished flooring. As far as im aware their needs to be a solid substrate for the fibre cement board to fix to as its quite a brittle board. But if you find out another way to integrate this board please add it here as I can see why it would be a good product to utilise for sound proofing. Yes I have heard good things about Cork for its insulating and sound properties and also the tec sound products. Please let me know how you get on with your project..

Thank you for your answer. I assumed that fiber cement is better for soundproofing because its compression. I know that cement board is an infrastucture for the final floor which might be leminate. 1.Tell me please , 2 layers of plasterboard and the chipboard is pretty enough in order to avoid footstep noise? 2.What is the exact kind of plasterboard? 3.Does this chipboard is kind of OSB plate? 4.Does the chipboard is your final floor or you need to install leminate or wooden parquet? I'm not sure I'll be use cement board because of weight and price. But I'm still checking. Thankx

@@tobysallthings-property6798 Hi again.......1.What is the thickness of the resilient tape , and why not using instead of that resilient channels for a floor? 2. Is the whole constructure avoid foot steps noise? Thank you. I'm going to start my project on the next week..

1) 4mm resilient tape. I thought I could do it without the need for the resilient channels. Plus with pipe etc in the floor i thought it was easier to batten. Plus probably cheaper. 2) both airborne and foot step noise.

1) the plasterboard and insulation is more for the airborne noise, the resilient tape plus matting under the carpet is for the footstep noise. 2) acoustic plasterboard, usually blue in colour. 3)Standard interlocking chipboard flooring 22mm thick 4) No on top of the board we laid a 3mm thick regupol rubber matting. then decent undelay then thick carpet,

Thanks for your comment. I have had it running all through the winter here and its still doing really well. I had to upgrade the exterior a bit by building a frame around it and insulating it to help it when it got really cold as it struggle getting it up to 40 degrees on the really cold days. but all in all very happy so far with it.

@@tobysallthings-property6798 wow..that’s amazing that it lasts during the winter ! Would you have any recommendation regarding filters , I buy the bulk deal off Amazon but they seem to only last a few days , any special type that is more durable? Also any special instructions for the pump, my son keeps turning it on and off to get the bubbles started , not sure if that is best for its future life span , also I do tend to just unplug it when we are not present as I fear it might catch fire , any special tips that you use to keep it running well would be greatly appreciated..Ty in advance ….eva

Thanks for the comment. I get the filters from either B&Q or the Range- B&Q are the cheapest. You shouldn't need to change them that amount 1 every couple of months would do. I found when the kids played in it the filter would block quicker so now before anyone gets in they need to make sure there feet are clean to stop grass etc getting in their. Also I wont have the kids getting in and out constantly as that adds to the amount of dirt getting into the tub. Also use a fine net to clean the tub after each use. Grass seems to be the biggest issue with mine. mines left plugged in all the time, as I keep it at around 30degrees then boost it when I want to use it in the evening. Hope this helps..

Thanks for the comment. I used that ac50 sealant on each board where it abutted the perimeter. Then when I installed the chipboard I used the sealant again around the edges. But from memory this was quite a challenge and I am not sure how effective it was at filling the gap properly. However a foam filling strip in hindsight would be a lot better/easier to do. Or the other option if its large gaps is an expanding foam. Hope that helps.

Thankyou..

I don't think they have but they were a great fit for me from the outset..

Thanks. It was the acoustic rockwool which from memory was the RW45 it came in a slab. I have used the acoustic fibreglass insulation which looked like the stuff you would use in the attic. That did nothing. You need the denser slab insulation for the acoustic work..good luck with your project..

@@tobysallthings-property6798 Thanks for the reply. We went with RW3 (60kg/m3) in the front room and RW45 (45kg/m3)in the bedroom 22mm T&G, mass loaded vinyl, underlay and carpet. We're Starting on Tuesday. Hopefully it does the job. Thanks for your insightful vid.

Perfect. Are you going with the resilient tape on the joists??

@@tobysallthings-property6798 Yep resilient tape on the joists, flanking tape along the walls, any other gaps sealed with AC50. Hopefully that will do the trick. I'll post a reply to let you know how we get on.

That's great. Hope it all goes well. Yes I did see some people reccomended laying the matting usually behind plasterboard on the walls but can see the benefit of laying it under the floorboard as an extra barrier. If you can let us know how you get on when you've finished the project that would be great. Good luck...

Excellent video - couldn't agree more. Any idea how effective the accoustic noise reduction was?

Hey guys! Apols - completely forgot to update this. The noise reduction was actually pretty good! But in fairness, it wasn’t as good as I expected but here is why it’s justified: • I learnt… there is actually no such thing as 100% sound proof. Read that again. • My room is on top of a 8m x 4m kitchen, made of glossy tiles… so the echo and amplified noise will ALWAYS take something upstairs to my room But it’s good enough!

Thanks for the comment. No I would keep it the same. When I did the scanner it dropped me down a size from my normal. So I ordered my normal size an 8 and that seems fine. So if your normal size is a 9 go for that..

Thanks for the comment. Yes looks and feels alot better in that room now. I used a fine filler to go over the joints, then I hung a lining paper over the top again and caulked around the perimeter and it looks great..leave a bit of time between the insulated paper being hung and the lining paper, this will.give it time to dry and adhere to the wall properly. Hope this helps and good luck with the job. I think it was well worth doing..

It's the water pentrating through the wall causing the issue. But yes definitely something to Try first. They had replaced the ridge tile on top of the wall before and this was undertaken. This was the last job to do as water was still getting in..

@@tobysallthings-property6798 try Mariseal 800 it’s a water repellent never fails

thanks for your comment..

It's well worth doing if you have problems with sound travel..if your located in my area then happy to take a look for you..

Technically water should not transfer to the internal wall down behind the trays. That would only happen if there is something bridging the cavity for the water to track across and if that happened then the that would need clearing. However there is a flap on the cavity tray that sits up against the internal wall also..

But it’s a radial wall so it wouldn’t sit flat against it

No it's not curved it's a standard wall..

It's not a radius wall at all! If its driving rain on that gable end any water that soaks through the bricks will just run down the back of the brick and out of the tray at the bottom! Spot on job!

Thanks for your comment.

Thanks for your comment. Yes possibly take the skirting off but you would not be gaining much just making a lot more work for yourself. The adhesive claims to have anti mould and fungal properties and the fact you are putting the insulation in place will help the transfer of the heat so rather then hot meeting a cold surface creating condensation the insulated paper should act as a buffer to stop condensation from forming..But ill update as the winter progresses. Ill also add the wall in the video was cleaned with mould cleaner first and allowed to dry before I installed the paper. Obviously you would not just go straight over the mould it needs getting rid of beforehand.

Hi. Yes its flat, Just taken the cork insole out to check.

thanks this is very much appreciated, I will order a pair @@tobysallthings-property6798

Great. Someone mentioned on the comments about ordering a pair of the vivobarefeet Insoles to replace the Cork ones supplied. So that could be a good option.

@@tobysallthings-property6798 as long as the footbed is completely flat it will be okay I have the QO versions and the footbed is not completely flat inside

Thanks for the comment. Its the blue coloured plasterboard you will get it from any merchants. The Blue colour of the board indicates the acoustic properties. I used a 12.5mm here but I doubled it up. They do sell a 15mm smaller board for this purpose, but I think it worked out cheaper to get the large sheets and cut them down. Good luck with your project..

Do what you normally do then I would say. The company is really good if the shoes are not right you can send them back, as long as they are not worn outside. But double check with them before you order.

Yes something I need to work on for future videos.

I do not think they would stand up to rigorous activity like running or the gym. Possibly now and again, But just did a quick search on their website and they have a range of running shoes.

Results where amazing. It was a lot of effort but worth it. Did each room the same and never had a complaint about noise..

Thanks for your comment. Good couple points and i like the idea of the rubber padding on the timbers at fixing points. I did however install the channels as per the manufacturers instructions and they were installed the correct way up so I would advise for you to definitely look into it as you would have been doing it incorrectly if you were installing them the other way round.

Thanks for the comment..

I made sure where possible loose cables were laid on top of the insulation or under but your limited to what can be done with them. I see where you are coming from but its no different to loft spaces where the cables are usually completely covered by fibreglass insulation. Usually the rockwool is fire retardant also. I am not an electrician so seek advice beforehand but assume as cables are fully insulated its only bare live cable that would be an issue such as the downlighters and as I mentioned in my vid I made sure these were covered with the protectors to ensure they where not covered. Hope this helps. Again always seek professional advice before undertaking work of this nature. thanks for your comment.

@@tobysallthings-property6798 Awesome, mate, thank you.

Hi. Best thing to do would be to drop me an email. tobysbuilders@gmail.com then we can discuss your project further..

Thanks for your comment.

Thanks for your comment..

Thanks for your comment. I must say its been up and running for a couple years now and feedback is very positive. Possibly resilient bars on there own but with a double layer of soundboard plus the acoustic insulation between the stud it's fantastic..

actually, if installed correctly like I stated above, it will help, but the wall cavity should also be filled with sound insulation.

Thanks!

Thanks for the comment. This is the only wall that connects to another bedroom. It was being done up as an HMO so I wanted as much privacy between the rooms as possible. It's a 1st floor bedroom so the existing ceiling stayed as its only attic above. I had to make the other room slightly bigger so that's why there's another stud in behind but that came down as soon as the wall was finished..

Sounds great! Yes great way of making some additional money from your property. But also adds to the capital appreciation. So win win on all fronts..

Hi. www.birkenstock.com/gb. Just their main site. I can't see the solid black ones but they have some others to chose from. Keep checking for your size if it's not there straight away. I had to wait a couple weeks for my size to come back in stock.. www.birkenstock.com/gb

Shoe station direct

@@lukewokeywoos thanks mate, i managed to get a pair but this will be handy if i need to replace them :))

Thankyou for that comment.

@@tobysallthings-property6798 Thank you, welcome 🤩1

Thanks!

ruclips.net/video/ReXSv9QWQbU/видео.htmlsi=ZMiGs4Y7S7KSus68 here is the full vid..

Yes they have for me..

As in they were true to size for me..

True to size for me, but Vivo recently updated shoe sizing. Currently, I have 38 EU size 7 on new Asana, it was weird wearing, it’s really cute tho. I may return it I just returned Asana Blue in size 37 EU in size 7 which was the old sizing coz it’s awkward.

Yes good point. I have used soapy water in the past. Not while using that tool bit will try it on the next one..

Apply the caulk with good downforce to make sure water does not go BEHIND the bead of caulk .....nice bead though ....many ways to skin a cat.@@tobysallthings-property6798

Thanks for the Nice messege. Glad the vid helped..