Steel for Armor in Buhurt/Armored Combat
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- Опубликовано: 28 янв 2021
- #Armored Combat #Steel #Armor
Welcome to a visit to the Forge/Shop for some talk on different steel types used in Buhurt/Armored Combat, as well as some quick hammering and testing.
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www.saltlakecitycrusaders.org/
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Music: Star Party - Legends (NCS Release)
• Star Party - Legends ...
I'm really starting to like the design of the German/lobster tail sallet. Might look into getting one for duels.
I have a stainless steel helmet and I am Happy with it. I just got it repaired. Cause it got to many dents over the Years. For longsword duels it is okay.
Hii
I am making medieval helmets, armour in india. You want to buy?
@@fardeenmirza8762 scam
I didn't know there was so much variation in the performance of steel
Now get into the various knife steels…
Excellent video. I’ve been watching al or your info series and very happy with all the information so far. Thanks!
Amazing information!
That vambrace did not seem happy after being hit..
You guys make great videos.
I love these videos. They are super helpful!
Hii
I am making medieval helmets, armour in india. You want to buy?
Oh dammnit! Nice video.
Really appreciate you guys making content. I am still building / buying my harness. I still need greaves and a helmet. I have good mail as well
Very informative, thanks
You can stress relieve stainless steels with heat and soaking to reduce work hardening, whether from the armorer's hammer or a foe's mace, axe or polearm.
One of the problems with many stainless and other highly alloyed steels is that at temperatures lower than 60 to 70 degrees F, they will cleave catastrophically or brittle fracture.
Plus, like the man said, working stainless and "spring" steels is much harder than low carbon steel, which adds time to the process. Time is money.
This video should have way more views! It was very informative and helped me understand the differences between helmets in terms of quality. I'm not sure but have you made any videos discussing the differences between "gauges", such as if 14 gauge is good for a helmet and if 16 gauge is good for plate armor?
he do be looking like conan obrian
You could work the ms sheet without heating it first then temper it later that smith seems to know some book knowledge but the practical seems lacking
Great video, loved the music!
I’m also planning on buying a type of sallet so do you think a hardened chromium-vanadium 30hgsa steel would be good too make it out of?
Good video and great information.
Hii
I am making medieval helmets, armour in india. You want to buy?
@@fardeenmirza8762 nah man. Thanks for the offer though.
NH you intrested in medieval product buy?
@@fardeenmirza8762 no
Nice, I didn’t know Mild steel is still usable in Buhurt, good to know so I don’t need to buy another helmet.
304 stainless in the annealed/solubilized condition is tougher in liquid nitrogen than mild steel at room temperature.
Question 2 amorer what do i need to know about 30hgsa steel 3mm helmet?
The strike against the vambrace with the axe, even if the arm was allowed to react to the strike, would have broken the radius or ulna, possibly both. Tempered, the vambrace would have held up better, but it is a rather close fitting piece of armor, so it would not take that much deflection of the steel to transmit a heavy point load at right angles to the forearm bones, with a big hematoma or break as a result. Either way, you aren't fighting with that arm for the rest of the day/week/month, depending on your heal time.
I saw a vid recently where a smith said he uses crankcase motor oil to get more even blackening.
He also said linseed oil has a tendency to look brown under certain lighting, and it can run and streak.
But multiple coats of linseed are still the best way to get the deepest darkest darkest black.
Awesome video thank you for sharing I loved it! :-) does your blacksmith have a RUclips channel and or a link where I could request and or buy stuff from?
So mild steel crumples easily and be fixed easily but if its 3mm 12 gauge mild steel it won't even dent at all? But is super heavy? But would springsteel but worth it if it dents less?
How about titanium guys? Maybe not for the helmet, but the armor.
We might do another video about it in the future.
Is there anyone outside USA using mild steel for helmets for buhurt?
"I wish we had an example of a helmet shattering"
*shattered helmet shows up on screen*
Does the smith have a website?
Invisididy 😏
What about Titanium??
I got the same question
Dude said Nerd Rage. Must be talking about Simon. Lol
Does this guy do armouring vids I’d like to learn
Not yet. We can do more videos in the shop as well. Ryan Weaver (also Anvil Dragon) does some videos and FB livestreams in his shop when making armor. Hope that helps.
Do y’all do custom orders?
We are not a armor manufacturing group. You however can find many great armored through Facebook and Instagram.
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what are your thoughts on titanium?
Titanium is great for reducing weight and doesn't rust but it doesn't stop really hard hits from bringing the pain. It's really up to your pain tolerance and position on the field
@@carlyaustinsebaske-smith3319 i think they want me as tank
@@TrenchCoatDingo then titanium wouldn't be the choice for you. Hardened/ stainless for chest piece. Spring for arms and legs. Spring or mild for helmet
@@carlyaustinsebaske-smith3319 is spring for the chest not ideal? i would like to keep away from stainless if possible.
@@TrenchCoatDingo hardened/stainless is ideal for the chest. It's cheaper than spring and will perform in the ways you need. Spring is great for the chest as well, it's just more expensive and doesn't really do anything better than hardened/stainless
Who are these "most armorers" using cromolly? Last I checked most heat treated helms in USA are still 1050 or 1065 and from Eastern Europe G65 (similar to 1065). 4130 is still a premium material...and you missed perhaps the most important difference. The hardening process for 4130 is much more forgiving than 1050 whicj was popular for a decade....tons of examples of failed tempering process in 1050 with catastrophic armor failures (shatter). 4130 is much safer as well as stronger and more rust resistant...the closest Eastern equivalent is HSGA30 or XGSA30 (same metal, different countries). It's not as tough as 4130, but it's close.