TikTok Shop, Ventilation, Failed Prints - 3D Print Farm Vlog #18
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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
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Welcome back to a new Vlog video, August 6, 2024! I talk about TikTok shop and my experience so far. Also a lot of people ask me about ventilation in this space. Also, I keep getting failed 3D prints from my minis on specific models due to bed adhesion? Not sure, let me troubleshoot.
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Hey Man, good work. I've been watching your videos for the last month.
I also have a sizeable print farm, running it since 2018, now with about 100 P1S, i had over 350+ i3s before i upgraded and got rid of those. I thought i would just share some stuff from my experience as ive literally gone through the same situation, just my 2cents, hope it helps.
I know how heat can build up, during one hot summer a few years ago, before we figured our our vent solution, we were basically in shorts and sleeveless T shirts, sweating buckets, running around trying to manage 350+ non enclosed i3s. I was in your situation too, how to get the F*in heat out but not spend a fortune on a hvac system, i went about creating a ventilation system using inline duct fans from Amazon, we bought ones by AC Infinity, they have a ton of different types and sizes, even their smaller stuff can move a lot of air, they plug into the wall, don't need any special wiring. There are a lot of other xyz brands that have the same stuff, i found AC infinity to be the more reliable. You can buy duct hoses and cut them up to attach vent port, basically building a network of ducts through out, you can probably kit out your space with a few inline duct fans + duct hoses + ports for well under $1K. These will probably do the trick for you, they did for our farm. There are also 3D print files for duct vents and attachments for these inline duct fans, a lot of people use these type of duct fans for w*ed / "hydroponic" farms lol. Its not pretty, but does the job well and on a budget.
I see you have your doors open and you're in a humid environment, not sure if you have them open always, but any open doors or windows to the outside will bring in humidity, this is a bad combo for your filament, especially 1kg rolls, in my experience they are more susceptible to moisture absorption than larger rolls. You may also want to get a few dehumidifiers also (more so than even air purifiers). Once you have a vent in place, try keeping your doors and windows closed, it can have a big affect on humidity, which in turn will help your print quality and printer performance. Not sure if you have any AC's in your place, not sure how hot it gets over there or for how long summer is, but there are also 2-3hp mobile AC units you can get to cool down areas you and your staff work at.
With bed adhesion/clogging, its not always down to the environment, it can be very much down to the plastic and not all plastic is the same, even from batch to batch from the same supplier, although looking for suppliers that can give you the lowest price per kg seems great, but isn't always the best, what you loose in waste and lost print time adds up. I went through a lottttt of suppliers, some were good at first but once we had their stuff in mass quantity, we would find a lot of inconsistency in quality between batches, especially in colored filaments due to all the color dyes and other impurities. We have since stuck to eSun for the last 3 years, their stuff is good and very consistent in quality, but not the cheapest, i couldn't recommend them more, the extra spent was saved on loss and time.
If there are specific colors you use more of, consider buying those in 3KG or 5KG spools, have those as the 5th roll not in your AMS. the P1S can pull 5kg rolls with no problem. Not only will it bring your cost down as suppliers will give your a better price per kg, you won't need to change as much filament as often (your staff and your feet will thank you for that). You can probably even jerry-rig the A1 ams so that a larger reel sits just off it and feeds through it. I've seen some stuff on printables and makerworld for mods to the AMS so that it can hold 3KG rolls, so you could even have all 4 spaces hold larger rolls. You can find print files for 3KG and 5KG spool holders on the net. In the long run, moving to larger rolls will probably have the biggest factor in bringing your filament price down and also reduce daily work load, which adds to savings, bigly!
I know in NJ it can get cold, now that you are in a big space and you're using open printers, you may see even more issues with bed adhesion in winter than when you were doing this in your smaller space, we had the same issues with our older i3s which were not enclosed (not so much so now with the enclosed P1S), we started to make 'winter' files where the bed temp was set slightly higher in order to mitigate the cold and reduce the chance of prints coming off. You look like you have a lot of files, you may want to prepare yourself ahead of time for this ;)
Keep up the good work, what you are saying and showing in your videos is 100000000000% more genuine and real info than most of the other people channels trying to give advice on print farming, most of whom seem to be trying to upselll some sort of subscription 'master class' bulls*it, cause they're 'gurus' on 3D printing , as they have like 12 printers and sold a handful of stuff on etsy lol lol lol. Watching your videos is like watching us back a few years ago, it brings back the memories 😭 and pain ;)
Cheers
P.
@ps81409 just curious what eSun PLA you're using? The PLA+HS or something else from their range? I'm finding their PLA+HS great but stringy causing a lot of cleanup at the end.
@jaeitee We use their good old-fashioned PLA+. Also, we only print at standard speed on the P1S, never any faster.
With regards to the duct system. My issue is how/where should I vent it out? Other than cutting through the glass windows?
@@ps81409 appreciate the reply :) Unfortunately for me I only have access to the PLA+HS in Australia.
Damn, we can also learn a lot from you too. Ty for spending the time and sharing this amazing detailed experiences with us mate! I just got my 5th printer and hope I can reach to those problems!
I’m an A/C guy and I have a suggestion. You can duct in fresh air to the return of your A/C unit. This will dehumidify that air through the unit when it is cooling. The quantity of fresh air can be regulated with a volume damper so you don’t overload the unit with hot humid air. Hope this helps
Hmm.thanks for the tip I'll look into it
Wife gets mad that a printer came home hahahaha. But then you don’t have to leave to try a test print!
As they say happy wife....
@@Dancyn3Dprints I have been married 2x. I figured that one out hahaha
Its 5 mins away
I recently got an ender 3 SE , when my mom saw it , and the results , it blew her mind. (test print , lucky cat)
AQUANET HAIRSPRAY!!
I batch print tons of critters and used to suffer form bed adhesion issues but put on a few layers of aquanet letting them dry between layers then you won’t have the issue anymore! Only need one coat between prints and unlike glue it takes weeks to gunk it up to the point of needing to clean it because the hair spray drys so thin but I swear by it it’s better then glue stuck or anything else
I don’t use brims for anything and a lot of my prints are like yours and would have issue too if I hadn’t used the aquanet
Also your wasting material with purge tower it’s not needed just make sure your settings allow for the tool path to begin inside outside walls.
any potential booogers are no are longer a problem this way
Also most my farm is the a1 series printers and I sometimes turn it up to ludicrous mode with just the walls and initial print layer set to 20 mm/s
So that when I turn it up it still is very high quality and nothing comes off my plates anymore even with all the violent shaking and accelerations
Also having switched to the “smooth pei” and sprayed with aquanet.
It worked good but I kept getting one or two prints with the tails unstuck with print defects.
it wasn’t as good of bed adhesion as the textured plate coated in aquanet.
So for a farm I recommend aqua net hair spray and textured plates for maximum bed adhesion so your not throwing away money everyday to failed prints
Also selling failed prints may take away from your sales of full priced ones I noticed from my experience
Dawn dish soap and warm/hot water only, has been the best remedy for me. I find ipa can leave a film that can lead to adhesion issues over time. Mostly noticeable with textured sheets. Awesome content 🙌
@@phil285 hmmmmm I ordered some smooth pei sheets
@@Dancyn3Dprints Had a similar adhesion issues when I got my A1 mini, I use 3dLac spray off Amazon (small bottle of the liquid version, not the spray can), usually lasts about 4-5 prints before needing reapplying, It's sets thin so the texture on the bed still shows. If using it on smooth or holo bed plates I tend to wipe it before it dries so it doesn't hide the holo pattern on the part.
Same the wash resolves it every time
I have a print farm and i found using a brim - youll need to experiment with the gap distancing - and adhesvies on the plate. I very rarely have failures.
Extra adhesion is a necessity for A1 as the beds sling back and forth so fast, prints can detach so easily..
@kimzor1989 yea I've noticed that. Rarely happens on my x1c or p1s
I’ve decided that the small wastage of printing a brim is well worth it compared to the wastage from failed prints. I haven’t had a single print with a brim go wrong
Appreciate showing the misprints and settings to try and resolve the problems. Having experienced similar problems but on a smaller scale. I did get a couple of ides to try but I did come to a similar conclusion on some models using a brim.
Yea brim is the safest way just annoying to clean it up
Awesome to hear about the ventilation. It would be cool if you continued to give updates on that. I’ve been thinking a lot about ventilation and filtering the air.
I make a 50/50 mix of pva glue (Elmer's) and 99% isopropyl alcohol, then paint it on a clean and hot base. Wait for it to dry then print. It lasts for several prints before it needs cleaning (soap and water) and repainting. YMMV.
Will try
@@Dancyn3Dprints to be clear, I don't do this on a bambu, but rather an Anycubic and it works well for me.
this one of the best and cheapest idea i am doing right now too :)
with 99% alcool nothing is cheap 😊… I’m using 95% cereal alcool and nothing else for PLA. On textured or smooth PEIs. When the first layer is tricky I put some spray on it and PVA when the material tends to warp (kind of messy to clean up). Brims just for engeneer materials
Dish soap to wash every 5-10 prints and hair spray for adhesion works perfect, no issues on my A-1. Same thing for my P1P and P1S's.
Wouldn’t overspray from the hairspray get onto the axis screws or belts
@@geekenergy and better not to use it at all .. there is many many many way much better than hair spry like water washable glue and every print use alcohol little bit up to 10 prints then wash it :)
@@geekenergy No you just spray in an area where it wont get anywhere, I spray a few feet in front of the machine aiming the spray onto the build plate I am holding so very little overspray. I dont not spray while the build plate is on the machine. I will say once you try it nothing else works as good and clean. If your print fails to stick with hairspray then it is a Z offset issue or something the machine is doing wrong.
Thanks for sharing.
In my opinion, handling one egg at a time, to fill it up is a huge waste of your time. Watch your video, and you can see how many steps you had to make for filling up each egg. Get yourself a rolling cart, and make a tray that can hold about 20 eggs at a time. Roll the cart in front of your various bins and fill to your desired quantity.
Work smarter, not harder.
@sunrisetacticalgear2676 this is why I post these videos for comments like this. Going to invest in a rolling cart!
Almost Everytime my adhesion fails was because needed a wash.
It appears the filament leaves a light residue after a few prints. Almost like when baking
Great tip!
use a hear sprey on your plates and remove brim
Get a smooth build plate. That will fix your adhesion issues. You don't need to use glue with PLA with it either
I had the exact same issue with the Zoe3d minis. I tried all the stuff you did, lowering the first layer speed, zhop, Dawn dish soap, etc. Using a brim is endlessly frustrating and totally not worth it.
The solution I use now that totally works perfectly 100% is to use a raft with bambu's PLA support material. I make the raft two layers, the first layer I just use a dependable PLA - usually elegoo PLA + black, and the second layer I make bambu's PLA interface material.
The two downsides are that one, I lose a color because I need to have one slot for the interface material, and two, the support material is not cheap - it's like 30 bucks a roll. The counterpoint to that is that most of these minis only use three colors anyway, and one roll of support interface material last hundreds of prints and pays for itself by drastically reducing basically to zero all failed prints.
The great thing about the support material is that there's zero post-printing work, all the pieces come off the raft smooth as butter. I also lower the first layer speed for that initial raft layer to 30 / 30. I printed hundreds of these animals, often at 30% size, and haven't had a singular failure.
Wow interesting
10:19. They have different contact areas on the plate? I used to have to figure this out in intl airfreight loading as the air containers have flooring weight limits to abide by. Had to measure and work out the kg/sm or kg/sfoot, cant recall which. 747 and 767s back then. Eg 44 gallon drums had to have wood planks spreading to increase the contact area to stay within the floor load limits. Something useful for slicers to work out as the stl has a measurable contact area. Food for thought. Laurie. NZ. 😊
Where are the STLs for the cute little animals??
Thanks for the video. Your weather sounds like a cold front here on the gulf coast in Texas. It's 101 with 92% humidity today.
Disgusting
I only use isopropanol to clean the bed sheet, it's dry fast and just need a paper towel so you won't risk to scratch your bed sheet.
When i was using soap, i get sometimes issue with my filament not stick to the bed and i don't like to use glue.
Where do you get the files for the minis?
You should run gyroid infill if you are not using it.
Stock infill is grid wich makes the nozzle cross layers that are already printed, this makes the nozzle scrape over the infill and sometimes knocks parts off the plate over time.
Gyroidf doesnt cronn infill sections and is way more reliable but still fast.
Been using gyroid
Print fails might partly be humidity. PEI sheets have issues with adhesion when the air is to humid. Just something to be aware of and check out.
That may be it
Running 6 machines myself, I cant stress enough on an old school solution for bed adhesion. AUQUANET hair spray purple can.... I swear by the stuff... I am a bit crazy though I hit the texture pei sheet with the auquanet a few runs light spray then I wipe down the bed with IPA and paper towel...then print again. by doing the ipa it spreads the auquanet around again....gives you 1-3 more runs.... hope it helps you if you try it....I like the thermal grease idea that actually makes sense.
@@JW-8686 will give it a try
@@Dancyn3Dprints Just a light spray!!! I run 3-4 plates light spray each time....then I hit with IPA-towel sometimes light spray sometimes not I can feel the "sticky" once you have it down I rarely have issues...when I do i clean bed hot water and dawn and start over.... hope it helps.....keep the good content coming plz...learning a lot from your videos and looking to bump up my 500 gross a month to 1k...
I used to wipe with IPA between prints, then started having the odd adhesion issue, found out Bambu has found IPA will degrade the PEI coating on the plates. I’ve moved both of my P1S’ to SliceWorx plates and haven’t looked back. They are a dipped plate that grips like crazy. Every few prints you just wipe with a damp cloth, no ipa or soap/cleaners.
Realllly??? Been using ipa since forever
@@Dancyn3Dprints Yeah, I thought the same thing, everything I read was clean with IPA. Once I started getting repeat adhesion issues I bit the bullet and bought a SliceWorx plate for both printers. I wish it would have been an option when I ordered the printers from Bambu lol.
I make big cosplay and i put all my failed prints in a bin as they are great for filling dead space on a busy costume. Just a thought
I run a small farm with 4 P1S, but PEZ/polyurea plates have reduced my failure rate substantially. I can run those zou minis at 40% scale on the entire build plate and not worry about any failing. They're essentially just cold plates with crazy adhesion compared to PEI. Added bonus I can run them at 30-35C which is almost with them off. I imagine that might also make a big difference in ambient room temp with how many printers you run.
I think the bed slinging of the a1 is causing prints to get knocked off. I usually don't get that many issues on my x1c or p1s
@@Dancyn3Dprints 100%. One of the things I noticed going from a bed slinger to the P series printers was less adhesion and shifting issues. Stopped needing to use Magigoo for example on the P series when speeding up prints compared to the bed slinger. I also dislike the cleanup required when putting things on the plate and what they leave behind on the prints. You may find the bed slingers need another 5 to 10 degrees on the bed vs the P series as they're losing more heat than the P series and the beds aren't an even heat across the entire surface.
Lotta work
Seriously
I find a brim of 0.35 works really well, and is easy to remove.
Interesting I've been using .24 which still requires some cleanup but peels off pretty easy
@@Dancyn3Dprints Yeah, most of the time when I do a plate of the keyrings with 0.35 or 0.3, the brims come off really nicely.
Anyway works for me.
What about spraying alcohol on the texture bed?
Tried
I don't think I've had as much success with this on the Bambus like I did the Enders, but for the brims you should be able to set the distance to the nozzle size, and it should help things stick while coming off pretty easily and cleanly. Also idk if BambuSlicer has it, but Mouse Ears is often better and less waste
@@kingsidorak I did to .24mm
Try Mouse Ears instead of a brim, it works great for the articulated stuff I print!
Hmm gotta try that
I don't recommend selling your damaged prints, people will not notice that part of the disruption and think they are just getting a bargain.
@@charleswilliams1270 good point actually.. never thought of it that way. My wife has a retail store where she can sell them
You can definitely sell damaged I would just call them misprints and label the pictures accordingly
Do you have an estimate of your LTV to CAC ratio? As a small growing businesses I’m finding it hard to know how much revenue to put towards marketing and getting customers.
I try to stay under 30%
try to level your bed that might work
What I normally do is just use alcohol to clean the bed and then use extra hold hairspray which is a good adhesion promoter and release agent.
On textured pei? Or the smooth sheet
dude get ya some sliceworx plates..
Not going to lie, I cringe at your settings..... if your failure rate is above 2% your doing something wrong.
While this looks like a lot.. I've sold more than 10,000 of these guys already