Hope that helps! Treys' Videos rock! he is by far most knowledgeable and fully explains the little quirks in some repairs. His videos are clear and well done.
In my experience in the last 25 yrs of owning 7.3 it's usually the solenoid that goes out. Too bad you can't rebuild that, nor do they simply sell replacements.
Hey Jason you may need to clean out the socks in the tank. When they stop up it will seem like you are out of fuel, but you are not. They are tiny little filters in the fuel pickup tube inside the tank. Varnish from the fuel will stop them up.
trey great video. one thing you did not mention and i was not looking was the small pin that comes out the first barrel you unscrew, i am pretty sure the tapered end goes back into the body of the barrel first. not the untapered end.. or at least i hope so..
Great Video! Some suggestions: I used a vise to hold main body. I saw that the neck actually could be broken down further. Although, I did not attempt to do so. Looked like I would need a special tool. I did use an air hose with a black rubber cone tip to blow out the old oil out of the neck, and other parts. One thing I found was that the main body and larger rod pin was stainless steel ( non-magnetic ). Although, the tiny tapered pin was magnetic. So, when I assembled it ( tapered end into the neck first! ), I placed a magnet on the end of the neck to hold it in place. Then I screwed the neck back onto the body removing the magnet when tightened.
You know when you put a Oring across threads you take a big chance of damaging them. I take masking tap to cover the threads before putting the Oring on. And a great cleaner for small job like that I us a can of break cleaner. Give is a quick spray and wipe with clean rag.
you can get a solinoid after market though a hydrolic parts supplier. most newer forklifts use them. but failure is rare in life of use. (wireing may differ).
no need for vise to unscrew, just use proper diameter die handle with the tapered screws designed to hold a die - one of them must go into one of the holes in the tube beeing unscrewed others to fix the position, then no scratch marks, more proffesional look :) Generally it is not the end of disassembly, the unscrewed tube has several parts inside that need cleaning too.
$300 for a steaming pile of crap. Avoid Zone & Advance for parts at all costs. If it doesn't come in a bottle or a can, I won't buy it from those stores.
Trey, you do a great job with your videos, I followed the fuel bowl rebuild and was awesome. Having a crank but no start with my 02 Excursion 7.3L.. Puttiing the rebuilt IPR in tomarrow, see how it goes. Thanks, again great job.
I checked the IPR in my 97 7.3L...the nut is tight but the wire connector wiggles side to side a few mm, should it be tight? I'm having only minor idle and power loss issues with no check engine light. Im just going down the list of possible problems. Thanks for the video!
Hi mate great vedeo and great explanation 👍 today something happened on my 2001 excursión 7.3 I started the engine without problems but after a seconds the engine stops and I hearing blowing on turbo zone 🤔 looks like begin the turbo or under the turbo because I smell exaust smoke and strange thing the electric vacuum pump not working like other times 🤔😏 alone it's a really very hard to see because just working a cople seconds and when I coming front of the engine I hearing a air blowing 😐🙄🤔 anyone knows what a hell can be? thanks fellas I appreciate all help 🙏 👍👍 cheers from Norway 👍👍
You never checked the solenoid? Didn't even ohm it out. Did you just guess it was still good? Did you have any symptoms? Some information but, your video lacked detail . The link to the rebuild kit is gone too.
I measured mine it was 11.2 ohms dont know if thats good or bad, still waiting on a ford ICP sensor but I did clean reinstal mine and had an oring kit.
@@SirGuidemere91 I cant confirm it, mines hovering between 10.7 and 11.2 every time i measure it??? But the truck is running and starting easily just a misfire on Number 3 that may be coming from IDM or a possible bad injector, 2x now I have gotten it smooth as butter but after 10-18 miles misfire returns. I did pull the connector off the IDM and noted slight moisture and corrosion, cleaned both sides but didnt have time to ring out the wires in harness to end, and I did not go into IDM. When reinstalled misfire was still there. But who the hell can tell with these PSD, I dont have sufficient capability to diagnose thru OBDii
Ok, I took mine apart. Put a driver bit in it and it hit with 12v straight from the battery. The bit moves but just a bit and does not go flying off like some of my old coils from door bells I used to play with. So is mine trash? Should these pull hard? Or be meak and gentle like mine? Hrmmm
At 4:02 you drop the piston out of the inside of the IPR. I can’t get that thing to come out. I’ve sprayed degreaser in it and I can move it back and forth with a magnet, but I can’t get it to move past a certain point in the body of the IPR. I’ve tried heating it with a heat gun, not too much, but that didn’t help either. Anyone got ideas?
I put a new pump on but can't get the fuel from the tank to the pump. Dropped the tank and is clean as new and I blew the lines out. Any thoughts? Thanks Trey
My 1999 7.3 ran out of fuel. I filled it up but the bowl is not filling up. What fills it up? Where do I go? Is there a fuel pump that turns on add you turn the key on and primes the bowl?
In my case on our 96 the truck would run for an hour or so till throughly warm then die and refuse to restart. Talking with a local Diesel tech he indicated this was common when the electrical part failed. Also the plastic part would shake inside the metal housing. Changed the solenoid out without draining the HPOP and the truck is happy again. For me it's piece of mind. Rock auto has the best price on a genuine motorcraft replacement.
Coil was between 10.6 and 10.9 ohms off vehicle. Way to high! Symptoms: starts but constant stalling on load. Coil heats up and fails. I believe Ohms should be less than 2.
I have some questions about the way my truck to s acting up. Is there an email address I can use to email you, see if you have an idea of what my trucks problem is?
Hello Trey Spooner ! I have a truck F550 7.3 Diesel 2001, and there is a problem when I'm driving slowly, it can turn off several times when standing in the parking lot , can turn itself off, but when i go quickly such a problem does not exist. (Starting good, no problem) maybe IPR or not? Thank you so much! (Ssory for my English)
Tray, Nice detailed video. Thank you for posting. May I ask why the IPR needed to be changed? Was there an indication of failure? I'd just like to know in case I need to watch out for some symptom on my truck. Thank you. Eric
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Excellent video. Simple straight forward. This helped me to rebuild my IPR. Engine has much better response and the hesitation has been eliminated.
Glad to hear it!
Hope that helps! Treys' Videos rock! he is by far most knowledgeable and fully explains the little quirks in some repairs. His videos are clear and well done.
In my experience in the last 25 yrs of owning 7.3 it's usually the solenoid that goes out. Too bad you can't rebuild that, nor do they simply sell replacements.
Really good video...Yes! It was the IRP coil Plug on mine. New Plug...runs like new! No more stranded on road BS! Thanks a lot Truck Stuff!!!
Hey Jason you may need to clean out the socks in the tank. When they stop up it will seem like you are out of fuel, but you are not. They are tiny little filters in the fuel pickup tube inside the tank. Varnish from the fuel will stop them up.
This could be my issue damn
Im still running my original IPR in my 97, wouldn't hurt to do this. Thanks for making the video
trey great video. one thing you did not mention and i was not looking was the small pin that comes out the first barrel you unscrew, i am pretty sure the tapered end goes back into the body of the barrel first. not the untapered end.. or at least i hope so..
Great Video!
Some suggestions: I used a vise to hold main body. I saw that the neck actually could be broken down further. Although, I did not attempt to do so. Looked like I would need a special tool. I did use an air hose with a black rubber cone tip to blow out the old oil out of the neck, and other parts. One thing I found was that the main body and larger rod pin was stainless steel ( non-magnetic ). Although, the tiny tapered pin was magnetic. So, when I assembled it ( tapered end into the neck first! ), I placed a magnet on the end of the neck to hold it in place. Then I screwed the neck back onto the body removing the magnet when tightened.
Just need a chisel with vise to remove neck cap, clean spring and socket to re-install.
Good addition...
Geese that mini pin didn't look feel like it stayed in its place when turning in the rest of valve body wow
great job of describing what you are doing.
I know you showed it later but always state what the initials for something are when you start talking about it and in the title.
Thanks.
You know when you put a Oring across threads you take a big chance of damaging them. I take masking tap to cover the threads before putting the Oring on. And a great cleaner for small job like that I us a can of break cleaner. Give is a quick spray and wipe with clean rag.
you can get a solinoid after market though a hydrolic parts supplier. most newer forklifts use them. but failure is rare in life of use. (wireing may differ).
+kalhoon Dont suppose you know what forklift or the part number of the solenoid?
@@delawarecop bump lol I think mines bad
no need for vise to unscrew, just use proper diameter die handle with the tapered screws designed to hold a die - one of them must go into one of the holes in the tube beeing unscrewed others to fix the position, then no scratch marks, more proffesional look :)
Generally it is not the end of disassembly, the unscrewed tube has several parts inside that need cleaning too.
If you put 12v to that electro magnet it should pull/move a metal rod correct?
Nice video!I give it a 9.
It would've been a 10! if you could show bent test or how you know it works before you installed it.
I wish I had the capability to do that, but since I don't I'll happy accept your 9! Thank you!
What a saving!! I called Advance Auto and they wanted 300.00 for a new IPR valve
I wouldn't buy these type of parts for your truck at that store.
$300 for a steaming pile of crap.
Avoid Zone & Advance for parts at all costs.
If it doesn't come in a bottle or a can, I won't buy it from those stores.
Trey, you do a great job with your videos, I followed the fuel bowl rebuild and was awesome. Having a crank but no start with my 02 Excursion 7.3L.. Puttiing the rebuilt IPR in tomarrow, see how it goes. Thanks, again great job.
nydefense15 how'd that new ipr work out?? i have a crank no start with white smoke 03 7.3 psd
Did I Work with the rebuilt IPR?
I guess no work
That's a pal nut we use those on highline build powerline towers
Always good to learn new things!
I checked the IPR in my 97 7.3L...the nut is tight but the wire connector wiggles side to side a few mm, should it be tight? I'm having only minor idle and power loss issues with no check engine light. Im just going down the list of possible problems. Thanks for the video!
Pull the connector off and see if it's gunked with oil
Mine does that too. I think it's normal..
Is there a way I can test the electrical piece to make sure it’s good before I rebuild it
Not that I am aware of.
I think you can test for resistance. 10.6 ohms across the pins I believe
Hi mate great vedeo and great explanation 👍 today something happened on my 2001 excursión 7.3 I started the engine without problems but after a seconds the engine stops and I hearing blowing on turbo zone 🤔 looks like begin the turbo or under the turbo because I smell exaust smoke and strange thing the electric vacuum pump not working like other times 🤔😏 alone it's a really very hard to see because just working a cople seconds and when I coming front of the engine I hearing a air blowing 😐🙄🤔 anyone knows what a hell can be? thanks fellas I appreciate all help 🙏 👍👍 cheers from Norway 👍👍
How can you tell if the electronic part is bad is there a way to test it with a voltage meter or something
right, I came to the comments hoping to find a resistance value
I think between 5-22 ohms, most put out 11 ohms
An hour project? Took me 20mins
Great job!
You never checked the solenoid? Didn't even ohm it out. Did you just guess it was still good? Did you have any symptoms? Some information but, your video lacked detail . The link to the rebuild kit is gone too.
I measured mine it was 11.2 ohms dont know if thats good or bad, still waiting on a ford ICP sensor but I did clean reinstal mine and had an oring kit.
@@deepbludude4697 mine is at 11. Did you ever find out if that’s okay?
@@SirGuidemere91 I cant confirm it, mines hovering between 10.7 and 11.2 every time i measure it??? But the truck is running and starting easily just a misfire on Number 3 that may be coming from IDM or a possible bad injector, 2x now I have gotten it smooth as butter but after 10-18 miles misfire returns. I did pull the connector off the IDM and noted slight moisture and corrosion, cleaned both sides but didnt have time to ring out the wires in harness to end, and I did not go into IDM. When reinstalled misfire was still there. But who the hell can tell with these PSD, I dont have sufficient capability to diagnose thru OBDii
@@deepbludude4697 ah ok. Have you replaced the cps? I cleaned and rebuilt my ipr last night. Replacing this is my next step. I’m stumped too
@@deepbludude4697 did it work
Is it a bad idea if it is lubricated when putting it back together?
Interesting to watch. Do you know of any test for the coil part?
Test the resistance. It should be 5 to 20 ohms.
Ok, I took mine apart. Put a driver bit in it and it hit with 12v straight from the battery. The bit moves but just a bit and does not go flying off like some of my old coils from door bells I used to play with.
So is mine trash? Should these pull hard? Or be meak and gentle like mine? Hrmmm
what where your syptoms of a bad IPR
At 4:02 you drop the piston out of the inside of the IPR. I can’t get that thing to come out. I’ve sprayed degreaser in it and I can move it back and forth with a magnet, but I can’t get it to move past a certain point in the body of the IPR. I’ve tried heating it with a heat gun, not too much, but that didn’t help either. Anyone got ideas?
I have the same issue. The piston will not come out. What did you do? New IPR?
@@paulgreenblatt8627 Yea, I just bit the bullet and replaced the whole thing.
When removing my IPR half of it stayed in the unit I thought oil pressure would push it out? Anybody have any advice?
I put a new pump on but can't get the fuel from the tank to the pump. Dropped the tank and is clean as new and I blew the lines out. Any thoughts? Thanks Trey
7.3 powerstroke is the best engine.
AGREED
My 1999 7.3 ran out of fuel. I filled it up but the bowl is not filling up. What fills it up? Where do I go? Is there a fuel pump that turns on add you turn the key on and primes the bowl?
jason rock what was your problem.
Trey Spooner no electric fuel pump on these trucks
Jonathon, yes there is. It’s an in frame high pressure fuel pump under driver door. Runs once key is turned on
IPR..."its probably repairable"
Great video thanks for the info
How do you know if the electrical component is shot and needs replaced vs just a rebuild?
In my case on our 96 the truck would run for an hour or so till throughly warm then die and refuse to restart. Talking with a local Diesel tech he indicated this was common when the electrical part failed. Also the plastic part would shake inside the metal housing. Changed the solenoid out without draining the HPOP and the truck is happy again. For me it's piece of mind. Rock auto has the best price on a genuine motorcraft replacement.
Why can I not use O rings that I have in my kits
Thanks for your video.
Any specs on the solenoid? Having what seems to be a low pressure issue and would like to check the solenoid before i buy a new ipr
thanx
mine ohmed out around 10.3
Coil was between 10.6 and 10.9 ohms off vehicle. Way to high! Symptoms: starts but constant stalling on load. Coil heats up and fails.
I believe Ohms should be less than 2.
No, a new one is right at 10 ohms.
Do you have any videos on servicing the fuel tank on a 7.3 diesel?
I have some questions about the way my truck to s acting up. Is there an email address I can use to email you, see if you have an idea of what my trucks problem is?
Hello
Trey Spooner ! I have a truck F550 7.3 Diesel 2001, and there is a problem when I'm driving slowly, it can turn off several times when standing in the parking lot , can turn itself off, but when i go quickly such a problem does not exist. (Starting good, no problem)
maybe IPR or not? Thank you so much!
(Ssory for my English)
Vladimir DianGelo could be your cps sensor going bad they are just over 30.oo from ford
You were right !!! thank you!!!!!
Thanks for this video
Good stuff...Thanks.
Did it work for you?
Tray, Nice detailed video. Thank you for posting. May I ask why the IPR needed to be changed? Was there an indication of failure? I'd just like to know in case I need to watch out for some symptom on my truck. Thank you.
Eric
Can be a few different symptoms from idling - forums have a good run down on symptoms
tnx very informative
How I know the ipr is not working?
WHAT SIZE IS THE SOCKET?
You can use 29MM or 1-1/8" deep socket. I use a 29MM deep impact axle nut socket.
i bought an orielys axle nut socket. 29 mm part number w80548
Thanks for the video