Getting to understand why I like my ev. comp. on my digital camera (I shoot predominantly in arpeture mode). Interestenly enough, I also have an FA. Thanks for an informative video. One thing, on my Digital Nikon (D810) I have programmed Fn2 (front) to switch to spot, and when I release it it will return to what ever it was set to in the menu. Helps a lot.
Really good video as usual, very informative. I hope you cover in part two how I can compensate for snow scenes (and more complicated scenes) on a manual camera with an incident lighmeter
Thanks! I’m writing that episode right now, so it should be out in a couple of weeks. You have me curious though: if you’re using an incident meter - technically, you shouldn’t need exposure compensation, regardless of the reflectivity of the scene - since it’s reading the light falling on the subject instead of that which is reflected by it. I say “technically” since that’s how it’s supposed to work in an ideal world. What sorts of errors have you experienced in that situation? I’d love to cover that in the video. I don’t get much snow where I am, so my real world experience with that is severely lacking.
Hi, good to see you back, you have been missed! Great intro to metering, looking forward to the advanced one and more spot metering, also excited to see your thoughts on the super ikonta, I have a 531 645 format one, it's a joy to use..
Jim from Milton, If I remember correctly, we live not to far from one another. Can you recommend where you get your CLA's done. I have a Mamiya RB67 I would like to get CLA and new light seals. THX
Yes, you’re right. We’re in the same neck of the woods. My favorite local place for CLAs is Camera Service Company. They used to be in Smyrna, but I think they moved to a new location in the last few years. But generally I’ll just call them up and tell them I’m sending one in. Usually a reasonable turn-around time, too. For the Ikonta, though, I had to search far and wide for someone who specializes in those. That turned out to be Zacks Camera Repair in Providence, RI. But, they were thorough and also quite reasonable in price. Good luck with the RB!
Yup! Checked the obits but no mention of Mr Vintage Camera Digest on the deceased list ANYWHERE! So figured you were fine 😁 Enjoyed this video and looking forward to No. 2. Thanks from Manchester, UK.
Brilliant. That was the best explanation of metering Ive seen. I have owned an 18% grey card for years but never used it, prefering experience and bracketing. If using a handheld meter I favour incident purely because it can’t be wrong, so long as the light is identical to subject lighting ,as you say.
Very glad to hear you are ok! Thanks for a great refresher video on metering. It's always good to hear the basics again. I look forward to the next video. Personally I'm starting to shoot more medium format film and I want to improve my advanced metering skills before moving up to 4x5 film. All the best! Jim from Milton GA
My pleasure! I do plan to include some Zone System info in the next part. I think it’s really helpful when considering LF, but I find I can apply at least some of it to any format. Cheers!
It's great to see you back, we miss you and your content about photography. At least, I did. Well, let's end with the words, and let's watch what you've prepared for us today. Greetings
Kind of off topic but really nice recording area you've set up there. Great sound, clean lighting and great tones! Like the little Signet in the background as well. Great videos!
Thanks, John! I hope it at least will help folks realize why some scenes are just hard for the camera to handle correctly. They’ve got to “out think” it!
I’m glad you’re back and that when you came back you brought a great video. I learned more in this video about metering than I have in the last six months.
How serendipitous! I have an episode on filters for B&W in the works. It’s in the very early stages, though. To your question: I’ll use orange or red filters if I have a really nice sky with clouds. But it would be interesting to put them to use on a variety of subjects to see the effects.
Its good to see you back :).. I was wondering what was going on with you :).. I did not think you kicked off lol.. But yeah lots of us been busy this time of year getting ready for summer .. Now even if I may know that averaging out between the dark and light areas of my framed photo is how to get a decent exposure I did not know on the other hand that if you used a accurate camera and took pics of black and white boards like you did that you would get a gray photo lol. That actually helps me so thanks for that info :).. I use my cell phone as a meter and have it set for spot metering.. I aim it in the same direction of the photo I plan to take and touch the screen on a dark area and then touch the screen on the sky or brighter area.. I do this back and forth and around the area and see the furthest ranges in both direction.. I then decided on if I want to steer towards the shadows or the bright sides or just get a happy medium and then just guess something between ... Also beings I always over expose my film anyway I tend to add in around a stop or so more exposure as well. Or just half the box speed to start with and use that value on the phone app .. Anyway ill be here for the next video :)
Good to hear from you, Jennifer! I’m glad to be back. I really missed it. Glad that little exercise was helpful :-) What phone app are you using for metering? I occasionally use one, but it’s one I’ve had for years - and I’m sure there are a lot of newer ones out there by this point. I’m especially intrigued by the spotmeter capability. Mine has a central measuring area, but it’s not all that small. And I’d love to include that as a discussion point on the 2nd part of this series. The one i have is Pocket Light Meter by Nuwaste Studio. But the last update was 5 years ago. So, yeah, I’m behind the times as usual 😁
@@vintagecameradigest Was a pain to figure out but looks like the one I have is called Light Meter Lite or Free .. Its by WBPhoto.. It has many options and might actually be worth just buying the full version lol. But when you chose the Camera Meter button you can set all your values and modes you want and if you want to spot meter just touch where you want to meter on the screen .. I like this because I do not have to move the phone around trying to get like a center bullseye or something in different places of the framed area I want to take a photo of..
A good discussion of dealing with light, exposure, and the meter... fun and games and the part of the game that bites me more often than I like to admit! That's OK... I still like to play the game!
It’s not actually middle gray. What most meters call “gray” is actually 38% gray. It does that because Kodak feels most Caucasian skin tones average out to 38%.
Yep. Technically you are correct. I suppose a mathematically correct middle gray would be 50%. That is a logical reasoning. My understanding of it is that it’s more of a perceptual issue - since our eyes and brains perceive brightness on a logarithmic scale and not linear. Now, I’ve not heard the part about Kodak, Caucasians and 38%, but I suppose it does indeed track since that would be about where zone VI falls in the Zone System. Now, I know the actual implementation of the Zone System concerns not only exposure, but development, and, finally, printing. But it doesn’t seem to be a bad way to help determine exposure - or at least, to think about what tones are which. Anyway, very intriguing…thanks for the comment!
@@vintagecameradigest Maybe I’m wrong, but I think the grey card, 18% , in full sun reads f16, and this is EV 15 for ISO 100, and is also Zone 5 .. same as skin, Kodak used their orange box as reference for this value also 18% ..
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Just great !
Thanks!
Solid information, well put together 👍
Keep well & stay safe 🇬🇧
Thank you!
Amazing !!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Great brief!
Thank you!
Getting to understand why I like my ev. comp. on my digital camera (I shoot predominantly in arpeture mode). Interestenly enough, I also have an FA. Thanks for an informative video.
One thing, on my Digital Nikon (D810) I have programmed Fn2 (front) to switch to spot, and when I release it it will return to what ever it was set to in the menu. Helps a lot.
The ability to set up multi-function buttons on a camera is one of the biggest benefits of modern tech. Glad we have those options!
Really good video as usual, very informative. I hope you cover in part two how I can compensate for snow scenes (and more complicated scenes) on a manual camera with an incident lighmeter
Thanks! I’m writing that episode right now, so it should be out in a couple of weeks. You have me curious though: if you’re using an incident meter - technically, you shouldn’t need exposure compensation, regardless of the reflectivity of the scene - since it’s reading the light falling on the subject instead of that which is reflected by it. I say “technically” since that’s how it’s supposed to work in an ideal world. What sorts of errors have you experienced in that situation? I’d love to cover that in the video. I don’t get much snow where I am, so my real world experience with that is severely lacking.
Hi! I'm glad to see you back on the channel.
Me too! I’ve missed it!
Hi, good to see you back, you have been missed! Great intro to metering, looking forward to the advanced one and more spot metering, also excited to see your thoughts on the super ikonta, I have a 531 645 format one, it's a joy to use..
Glad to be back! I’m anxious to put some film through the Ikonta - hopefully tomorrow. I had it CLA’d recently, so I’m expecting it to impress me :-)
Jim from Milton, If I remember correctly, we live not to far from one another. Can you recommend where you get your CLA's done. I have a Mamiya RB67 I would like to get CLA and new light seals. THX
Yes, you’re right. We’re in the same neck of the woods. My favorite local place for CLAs is Camera Service Company. They used to be in Smyrna, but I think they moved to a new location in the last few years. But generally I’ll just call them up and tell them I’m sending one in. Usually a reasonable turn-around time, too. For the Ikonta, though, I had to search far and wide for someone who specializes in those. That turned out to be Zacks Camera Repair in Providence, RI. But, they were thorough and also quite reasonable in price. Good luck with the RB!
Thanks for the info. I will give them a call.
Yup! Checked the obits but no mention of Mr Vintage Camera Digest on the deceased list ANYWHERE! So figured you were fine 😁
Enjoyed this video and looking forward to No. 2. Thanks from Manchester, UK.
Ha! I knew SOMEBODY would! 😆 I mean, I’d have done it, for sure. Anyway, glad to be back. And many thanks for tuning in again!
Brilliant. That was the best explanation of metering Ive seen. I have owned an 18% grey card for years but never used it, prefering experience and bracketing. If using a handheld meter I favour incident purely because it can’t be wrong, so long as the light is identical to subject lighting ,as you say.
Thanks! I’m quite keen on incident metering myself, although recently I’ve been making good use of a spot meter.
Wondering where my Gray card is that was always in my backpack? Hope you will include light meter phone apps in the next video.
Thanks for mentioning the apps….adding that to the outline right now!
Very glad to hear you are ok! Thanks for a great refresher video on metering. It's always good to hear the basics again. I look forward to the next video. Personally I'm starting to shoot more medium format film and I want to improve my advanced metering skills before moving up to 4x5 film. All the best! Jim from Milton GA
My pleasure! I do plan to include some Zone System info in the next part. I think it’s really helpful when considering LF, but I find I can apply at least some of it to any format. Cheers!
It's great to see you back, we miss you and your content about photography. At least, I did. Well, let's end with the words, and let's watch what you've prepared for us today. Greetings
Thank you! It’s good to be back!
I’ve been binge watching your videos in the past week. I didn’t even notice you were away for a few months.
Thanks for binge watching :-)). Yeah, I just got swamped with work, but glad to be back.
Good to see you again,Sir. Greetings from Germany. Thank you for your work!
Thanks! And thank you for watching!
Good job explaining this.
Many thanks!
Excellent stuff sir!
Thank you kindly!
Good to see you back!
Thank you!
Welcome back. Always enjoy your videos. Appreciated the demo of middle gray in this one.
Thanks so much! Good to be back!
Kind of off topic but really nice recording area you've set up there. Great sound, clean lighting and great tones! Like the little Signet in the background as well. Great videos!
Thank you very much! And thanks for watching!
Welcome back!! Always enjoyed and learned from your videos. Looking forward to each new video!
Thank you! And I’m glad to be back. I’ve really missed it!
Late to the game, but glad to have you back and enjoyed the video.
Thanks! And thanks for your continued support! It’s good to be back. Schedule is going to be a bit flexible, but lot’s of good stuff planned.
Welcome back!! Missed your videos :)
Thanks so much! I missed it, too. Couldn’t wait to get back into it. Now I’m re-invigorated!
Glad you're back on the channel ...
Thank you! Good to be back!
Rock solid info. I really enjoyed this, ❤and you explained it with great clarity .
Many, many thanks!
Good job! I'm sure this will improve folks images!
Thanks, John! I hope it at least will help folks realize why some scenes are just hard for the camera to handle correctly. They’ve got to “out think” it!
Looking forward to #2. Glad to know that nothing horrible had kept you away.
Glad to be back. Not on my regular schedule yet, but have 3 in the pipeline. So I’m making progress!
Glad to see you back 👌
Thanks! Glad to be back!
Welcome back!! Thanks for the content🙏🏼
Glad to be back! Thanks!
Wonderful explanation! Glad you're back!
Thank you! Glad to be back. I really missed it!
Just found your channel, love this video, great revision for me as returning to photography after many years absence! Looking forward to part2👍🇦🇺🙏
Welcome aboard! Happy to connect with another from Down Under. I hope you enjoy your return the craft!
I’m glad you’re back and that when you came back you brought a great video. I learned more in this video about metering than I have in the last six months.
Awesome! Glad it was helpful! And I’m glad to BE back!
Perfect explenation well said and perfect video as always.!!!
Many, many thanks!
Steven, do you ever use colour filters for B+W film? It’d be great to get some advice on how to use them!
How serendipitous! I have an episode on filters for B&W in the works. It’s in the very early stages, though. To your question: I’ll use orange or red filters if I have a really nice sky with clouds. But it would be interesting to put them to use on a variety of subjects to see the effects.
@@vintagecameradigest that’s great to hear - looking forward to it!
Its good to see you back :).. I was wondering what was going on with you :).. I did not think you kicked off lol.. But yeah lots of us been busy this time of year getting ready for summer .. Now even if I may know that averaging out between the dark and light areas of my framed photo is how to get a decent exposure I did not know on the other hand that if you used a accurate camera and took pics of black and white boards like you did that you would get a gray photo lol. That actually helps me so thanks for that info :).. I use my cell phone as a meter and have it set for spot metering.. I aim it in the same direction of the photo I plan to take and touch the screen on a dark area and then touch the screen on the sky or brighter area.. I do this back and forth and around the area and see the furthest ranges in both direction.. I then decided on if I want to steer towards the shadows or the bright sides or just get a happy medium and then just guess something between ... Also beings I always over expose my film anyway I tend to add in around a stop or so more exposure as well. Or just half the box speed to start with and use that value on the phone app .. Anyway ill be here for the next video :)
Good to hear from you, Jennifer! I’m glad to be back. I really missed it. Glad that little exercise was helpful :-) What phone app are you using for metering? I occasionally use one, but it’s one I’ve had for years - and I’m sure there are a lot of newer ones out there by this point. I’m especially intrigued by the spotmeter capability. Mine has a central measuring area, but it’s not all that small. And I’d love to include that as a discussion point on the 2nd part of this series. The one i have is Pocket Light Meter by Nuwaste Studio. But the last update was 5 years ago. So, yeah, I’m behind the times as usual 😁
@@vintagecameradigest Was a pain to figure out but looks like the one I have is called Light Meter Lite or Free .. Its by WBPhoto.. It has many options and might actually be worth just buying the full version lol. But when you chose the Camera Meter button you can set all your values and modes you want and if you want to spot meter just touch where you want to meter on the screen .. I like this because I do not have to move the phone around trying to get like a center bullseye or something in different places of the framed area I want to take a photo of..
Thanks for the info. I’ll def check it out.
Here to echo the others. I'm glad you're back with a video.
Many thanks!
A good discussion of dealing with light, exposure, and the meter... fun and games and the part of the game that bites me more often than I like to admit! That's OK... I still like to play the game!
Thanks for watching! I’m just hoping this helps get folks thinking about the range of tones in their subject. Can help avoid unwanted surprises!
It’s not actually middle gray. What most meters call “gray” is actually 38% gray. It does that because Kodak feels most Caucasian skin tones average out to 38%.
Yep. Technically you are correct. I suppose a mathematically correct middle gray would be 50%. That is a logical reasoning. My understanding of it is that it’s more of a perceptual issue - since our eyes and brains perceive brightness on a logarithmic scale and not linear. Now, I’ve not heard the part about Kodak, Caucasians and 38%, but I suppose it does indeed track since that would be about where zone VI falls in the Zone System. Now, I know the actual implementation of the Zone System concerns not only exposure, but development, and, finally, printing. But it doesn’t seem to be a bad way to help determine exposure - or at least, to think about what tones are which. Anyway, very intriguing…thanks for the comment!
@@vintagecameradigest
Maybe I’m wrong, but I think the grey card, 18% , in full sun reads f16, and this is EV 15 for ISO 100, and is also Zone 5 .. same as skin,
Kodak used their orange box as reference for this value also 18% ..