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Great video easy to understand.

i really enjoyed the video. will it operate without the battery?

I have a "newer" ASAHI Pentax S3 that includes de 1/1000 speed coupled with a Super-Takumar 1:1.8/55 that my wife gave as a birthday party some 3 years ago and it's a beauty. I use an app in my phone as a light meter and works great. I have an K1000 too... love Pentax!

Really enjoyed this video! Would love a ranking of your favorite Nikkor lenses.

I was disappointed with Kentmere, especially since I have quite a bit in storage.

I would like to see a comparison between the Pentax 6x7 and 35mm film. I own the Nikon FM2 (my first new camera in 1983), 8008S, and F100. Didn't shoot film for about 20 yrs until 2023 when I pulled my Nikon F100 out of its camera bag. I forgot how good that camera felt in my hand. Decided to shoot a roll of film, and then put film in all my 35mm cameras, including some point & shoot cameras. I guess I'm hooked. I will always shoot digital, but I'm enjoying film again. I never shot medium format and I'm considering trying it. I'm enjoying your videos, thanks.

Another great video, thanks.I've developed my own B&W since I started back into film photography a few years back. I find the processing stage as part of the whole image creation process from taking it to seeing my negatives. One suggestion and mistake I made was to use too many different films and too many different developers. I now use two film types - Fomapan 200 and Ilford HP5+ & rodnol and DDX developer and got to really know how they work together. Might consider colour film as much more standardised with all the same kit just hotter

The meter in the Yashica Mat 124G is coupled.

Please Tell us more about French Made 6x6 and 6x9 cameras as Telka III and Lumiere Lumirex III and Royer Teleroy

Please try east german Beier Precisa IIa rangefinder folder with great Meyer Görlitz Trioplan 3.5 75 lens

Please try French lumiere 6x9 rangefinder with Spector tessar Clone 4.5 102

Your channel popped up a few days ago, and I am a subscriber now! I have been considering doing an extensive series of darkroom film processing and printing videos. I used to teach darkroom at the Dallas Center for Photography pre-Covid. Most of the darkroom videos I have watched have been poorly produced, and/or contain bad or incorrect information. It’s as if someone works out how to do something by trial and error, without consulting any sources or experienced workers, and then makes a video of their questionable methods. 🙄 But, I digress. Your videos are the quality I would have hoped for. I am going to follow along, and perhaps I won’t feel the need to do my own series. Keep up the good work. Cheers! 😎 PS: I could not agree more about NOT using a squeegee! They're horrible!

I saw this before buying it. And this was a fun camera to play with. I got a telephoto lens and tested it out. I can't wait to send the film to develop it!

Thorough as always Mr.VCD; ive pulled the trigger and purchased a bulk loader and development supplies based on your previous video - cant wait for the pushing/pulling tutorial have you ever shot BW backwards (loaded it in backwards and shot it backwards) - is it similar to redscale color negative?

Thank you for this video, and the instructions/information. Question - Is it true that the more diluted the developer, the "sharper" the film images will be?

Learned this from DistPhoto, but if you dunk your hand in your wetting agent and gently squeegy your film with your fingers, you can knock a lot of water off the film and make it dry much faster without damaging your film. I never used a squeegy, but I've been doing the fingers method for the last 12 or so rolls of film without any negative effects. Your mileage may vary!! But wet fingers > squeegy

I always loved seeing the negatives come out of the soup! I see you're a D-76 user. That's the developer I grew up with. I'm looking into HC-110 for 35mm and Rodinal for larger format film. I have yet to find a source that will ship either developer. That probably means I won't be able to buy the materials and formulate myself. I have Caffenol on my list of things to try. Great video!

Great video. I wish this was here when I learned how to develop film. A few other tips... Get a spiral notebook and write down every roll you develop, including chemistry used, film and camera used, how you rated the film, and how long you developed it for. I also give it an id number like 2025-001 for the first roll of 2025. I then write this id number on my scan folder and negative sleeves so I can always look back and see what my results were with a certain film or developer. I also write down the date when I make a batch of fixer so I can easily see how many rolls I've done with it. For hanging your negatives in the bathroom, I get a small garment steamer and fill it with distilled water and let it run for 10 minutes with the door closed. This really helps keep the dust down that sticks to your negatives.

You are way more gentle then I am.. And I tap it on the counter every time I invert ... As for my area Im at a loss at the moment .. I have a couple of gallons of nasty black chemicals and I called the Health Dep and no one seems to know where to take it..

You're not wrong, seeing the developed film for the first time never gets old!

Good, clear, and instructive video. Thanks.

Great clearly explained and nicely demonstrated the process from A to Z. If I ever need to send a how-to video to somebody, I'll clearly link them to this one!

That video was just great.

Some developer actually are *incompatible* with the usage of an acid stop bath. If you use Pyro developer (or I guess any other kind of staining developer, though Pyro is the usual one), the acidity of the stop bath (and fixer!) will damage the image. In that case you must use the water stop method, and you must use an alkaline fixer, not an usual acid fixer.

Great video, I have used the same tank and I have also had the same issue with leaks from the lid.

Another awesome video! Looking forward to develop my first rolls in 30 years, hopefully this weekend. Thank you for posting.

Looking forward to your guide for push/pull development 😉

Great video! Thanks 😊

Very nice tutorial!

Sadly no community image this time 😢

Does the lit come of easy on that tank?

Great stuff I absolutely love your videos, You explain things in clear concise straightforward language even an idiot like me can understand, so pleasant to watch and listen to, The problem I have with developing is knowing if I've done it right or if I could have done it better ie I generally shoot Fomapan & develop with HC110 the agitation method for development is constant agitation which I do with the agitator stick (30secs clockwise 30 secs anticlockwise no inversions) the results are generally ok but sometimes I feel they're a little flat & lacking tonal range, have you any suggestions how I can liven them up ?

With 65 years of experience behind me, I evaluate this educational video as the best one ever posted on YT regarding B&W film processing. The steps to be taken, and of more importance, why they are taken, is clearly described. There is nothing left out and no excess nonsense carried over from other YT videos included. I'd add a few comments, which are only incidental: 1. Although demonstrated, I do not think he stated that when you dilute stock developer (here, D-76, 1:1) with water for use, that working solution is always used only once and then discarded. 2. The post-development water wash should be temperature regulated to maintain roughly the same temperature as the processing itself. (Between 65 and 75 F) Hotter may damage the B&W film emulsion. Water colder than low 60 degrees becomes ineffective and will not adequately wash the film of hypo in the time expected. 3. Indicator stop bath and ordinary hypo clear chemistry are very cheap to use per roll. Although he discards his hypo clear after use, it can and normally is reused. It is a simple (cheap) chemical which reacts with hypo to chemically change its structure to allow it to more easily wash out of the film emulsion. And, it saves a lot of water. An acid indicator stop bath (used here) should not be used with developers which both form a classical silver image and also add a chemical stain to enhance the image. The acid in the stop bath will common destroy that additional imaging stain. (If you use one of those developer, you probably already know that.) 4. To wash film on a reel in a tank, as shown here, by flooding fresh water into the top of the tank, is largely a waste of water and an ineffective wash process. The fresh water just flows out to the edge of the tank and off into the drain. Instead, use a piece of hose attached to the faucet which is of small diameter to let it fit down the center tube of the reel (i.e.,"surge tube"). Flush fresh water into the tank bottom, up thought the reel, over the emulation, and flow off the top into the drain. 5. Finally, someone made a video using an AP developing tank, rather than the inferior, leaky, and wasteful Paterson System 4 tanks.

Watching to support 🤝🏽

Great explanation and and a wonderful presentation. You covered all the bases! IMO, film processing is so much more engaging and enjoyable than digital. I processed my first roll of 127 B&W film in 1974 using a GAF/Ansco film developing kit purchased at an E. J. Korvette store. I still have the developing tank and reels and, still use it occasionally. After high school, I worked at a professional, premier photo lab in Chicago. I did custom color and B&W processing while working my way thru engineering school. I switched to digital cameras around 2010 but guess what? They mainly sit on a shelf now... For creative play-time, I'm back to my Mamiya 645, Nikon F2 and Linhof. Would love to get a Graflex press camera, a lightsaber and pocketful of M5's. That would be fun!.

so refreshing to listen to someone that knows what they are talking about, people from my generation are all clout chasing influencer wannabes that dont have a clue what they are talking about. mfs buy a camera and a week later they are making tutorials

Im really curious as to the light meter you are using

Very educationa video, congratulations! Hope it helps getting newer generations into developing and, later, darkroom printing. That's the way to enjoy the photographic process as it was created. Thanks for the video, all the best!

I am speechless... So happy to meet your channel and find the content you provide... All the best !!!!

During the 70’s I used to dev & print for a local DC freelancer. We used six stacked Nikor reels in three tall Nikor tanks in a water jacketed bath and loaded 100’s of rolls of film onto those reels. A couple of hints to make things easier when learning -make sure reel ends are facing towards you - hands have to be dry - use a cheap bottle opener to open film - only cut the leader and peel the end of roll from tape or else you might lose the last exposure.

Great video as useful as ever

The secret for consistency is to not develop with short times. Doing it in 3 min is quite impossible for time consistency Doing it in 8 min or longer is perfect. You will have to choose longer times by developing at 20°C, never 24°C. To develop at 20°C in summer, I put the loaded tank and chemicals in a water bath and add ice cubes to lower it at about 16°C. Then the water bath will cool down the tank and the chemical while itself warms up. When the bottled developer is at around 19,5°C I start the processing leaving the tank in the water bath during the process.

Just an excellent video; informative and entertaining. We've had two SRT 101s since the early 1970's. They were our first SLRs. Along with the kit lens, the 55mm 1.7, we added the 35mm 2.8 and, my favorite at the time, the 200mm 3.0. With these, we camped cross country and back. With hindsight, I should have used a slower slide film, but I'm now reworking the best of the mediocre with Lightroom. I now use the old lenses with my Nikon mirrorless bodies, very much enjoying the focus assistance of the bright outlines. Thanks so much for the history lesson.

Great video, as usual!!

Great video keep up the good work! I look forward to more videos!

I shot film starting in 1990 until the year 2004. And until I was made a deal on a film camera at the beginning of 2024. I was not really interested in film anymore. But I forgot how much I love forgetting what I shop. Just to watch it come out when developing it. I still shoot digital for all my color work. But I have since embraced black and white film.

One of my favorite film stocks to shoot. Is ilford XP2 and develop it in HC110 1 + 119 stand for 45 minutes.

In the words of Bugs Bunny I feel like a maroon! I’ve used SS reels and tanks for nearly 45 years and cursed like a sailor for nearly 45 years because I try to get the film pinched by the spring rather than how you described. You have helped an old dog learn a new trick! Thanks!

I use the AP compact reels. They work great. I use the inversion method, and I don't have leak problems. I've never been able to use the metal reels. I learned long ago on what is called a "film apron." The aprons are incredibly easy. I found one on the auction site a few years ago and have used it a few times. It works great.

Another great video, Mr. V. I have accumulated several different types along the way, as we all probably have. I don't like the stainless tanks or spools which I learned on. Didn't like them then or now. I much prefer the Patterson ones. I have one AP Compact tank, but it has a 4x5 insert in it which is what I bought it for. It is marked as 'EC' on bottom. It seems to work well. If made, I would be interested in getting a 35/120 insert for it in the future. One tank I have that is not marked but the swizzle stick is marked 'Yankee Clipper' and is a small thermometer. It works well but it doesn't seal so you cannot invert it. Swizzle stick only. I plan to use it mostly for Stand Developing. And I also have JOBO tanks for 35/120 and 4x5.