Leveling FLOORS in our 100 year old Farmhouse! Fixer upper
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- How to level floors in an old house! How we leveled our floors in our Farmhouse. Watch us take on the task of fixing all the low spots in our old fixer upper before we tackle the kitchen remodel.
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Nothing about that floor looks 100 years old. 1947 is more realistic.
I guess that means my work is successful. RUclips comment cretics are so interesting. Facts and truth are only correct if they think so. Then as follows there first reaction is to scream from a hilltop about what they think isn’t true. It always makes me so curious why. Thanks for watching.
My 100 year old farm house has no subfloor.
I am curious. When raising a floor to level in any house. How does this affect plumbing pipes? We just bought a 1910 farm house and this very thing needs to be done in some areas of the home. 99% sure the house is sitting on joists somewhat like this. Some of the doors are out of alignment due to being out of level, second story windows are sitting crooked as well. She has great bones, just needs some love to bring her back. It's a three generation home, with only a second owner, we will be the third. Any advice would be great!
@@LittleDreamersFarm I agree about the youtube critics the commenter didn't watch the whole video and commented on the scenes showing your new framing. I remodel and build homes for a living many of those i repair being from as early as 1890. The lumber we use today isn't the same nor the technology we use to process it . Prior to around 1964 we used true dimensional lumber aka 2x8 means 2 in by 8 in. After that time we switched to todays standard which would be 1 1/2 inches x 7 1/4 inches even though we still call it a 2x8. The largest change would be the use of tree farmed wood vs old growth that would have prettified and change color over that time.
All three of these as shown in your video .
1: Ruff sawn tree used as girder 14:43
2: Petrified saw girder distinguished by color 7:48
3: On the same girder you can tell it's dimensionally different from the beam shown here 15:50
My only grip is pour a footer under your supports and mechanically bond them per code.
Thanks for the video
@@wind5250 In the critic's defense, that is a beautifully clean and uniform crawlspace. My hundred year old crawlspace looks nothing like that.
Thank you, I'm 70 years old and my house was built in 1947. I used your video to put support under the house for addition of walk in the and 50 gallon hot water tank. Speaking of cleanliness once I picked up all the garbage left by plumbers and electricians over the years mine is just as clean. Did I mention I am a female
Nice work!! Thank you for watching!
As I was just thinking could I do this, I read your comments! Had to do a double take that you say you are 70 and a woman! You have inspired me to at least try! Thank you!
We just got an estimate of 23K to have this done to our house!
Now I’m thinking we could do it ourselves! Thanks for sharing!
@@joydeussen5711 anyone can do anything slow and steady wins the race
@@TampaCatGirl I was just thinking that I could do this to my house- as a 66 year old female. Saw your comment and that made up my mind! Let’s go grannies!!
That's the cleanest crawl space I've ever seen. Looks about like a new house underneath.
Doin' work! That may be the cleanest crawl space I've ever seen.
Yea it’s been a job! Haha thanks. I wish we had video of it before it was crazy nasty!
Shit , I didn’t even see a spider web , spider ,snake , bug or even where the damn neighbors cat has snuck under there and shit and sprayed all over the place !!! I hate going under older homes , I’d give my hind teeth if homes really looked like that !!! Looks like that place was purpose built !! LOL , gotta laugh to keep from crying !!
Looks like someone laid down a tarp!
Thank you for sharing. I’m looking for inspiration to do the same thing to my cabin. How did you get that crawl space so clean? Brooms and shop vacs? Did you lay a tarp over the whole thing? Or was that there? What’s under the support blocks? Dirt? Cement?
@@LittleDreamersFarm how did you clean it?
Make sure your leveling doesn't change your plumbing Pitch for your sewer pipes , this could lead to a shittie Situation
Good point
😂
May I ask why you guys didn’t use steel plates to shim. Wood compresses over time. We leveled our main beam and used 1/4 inch thick steel shims (4x4 in inches).
Cement sheet does the job as well. Corrosion resistant Steel would be ideal though.
I’m not sure why they would use wood either.. some of the houses I have worked at the floors were initially shimmed with wood and asbestos.. the asbestos held up but where the wood was used it moved significantly.
I think it’s just a cost cutting thing so I’m not sure why these guys use wood for their own house.
I'm face to face with this situation. On a friend's home. He is looking at me with shaking head as I explain air vents being used to bring in beams. I showed him this remarkable filmed video, and now his head is nodding with a different attitude that should get his floor shored back up with no arguments. Thanks for all the time you sacrificed video shooting a job as difficult as this one is. Working in crawl spaces is an experience even professionals wish were avoidable. Big round of cheers to the wife she is a special gal. Mine would have waited till I got under house and drove off to her parents house. Lol
If you're going to use bottle jacks, always put a 1/4" thick metal plate between the top of the jack and your lifting crib. Otherwise you lose lift due to the jack crushing into the cribbing and risk crib blowout and dropping the load. Experience says so. I use 10t screw jacks instead. No risk of a hydraulic seal blowout. Keep up the good work. Old house renovation is a daily adventure.
Very cool. I don't see what keeps the cinder blocks from sinking into the dirt over time. There does not appear to be a footer under each cinder block. That is my main concern.
With them having so many suppors they aren't carrying as much weight and shouldn't sink much, but they do need a footer, it would be hard to dig footers in there.
Shoot, son, I am the wife, and I'm the only one who's going to be doing work and cleaning up in our 100 yr old crawlspace. I couldn't even pay my husband to do renovations, maintenance, or repairs. His logic, though, is that he doesn't know what to do, so he'd rather pay someone else or leave the work to me. I understand where he's coming from, and I enjoy doing the work that I know how to complete. Sometimes, all I need is his strength, and that works out because he doesn't have to think too much.
Following his logic, I hope he is paying you. LOL
😂
I have never in 40 years of trading as an historical building renovation, refurbishment, and repairs, specialist engineer, seen such beautiful working conditions under a building of any age. From this I can only assume you work in a clean safe environment at all times.
Good work Geeze 👊🏼👊🏼
Proper vapor barrier.
Not like the homes I have crawled under and leveled
Yeah I'm getting ready to do this under two homes, one built in 1920 and one built in 1890.
Both are getting vapor barrier first, like this for sure!!!
Thats the best !00 yo farm house floor joists i ever saw
Thank you! I wish i had some pictures from when we started it was so horrible. We hired and company to clean the crawl space out and install a vapor barrier. so worth the money. After that it became so easy to get in there and tackle the rest of the needed projects
@@LittleDreamersFarm Thanks for this info! I just bought a century old farmhouse, too, and it needs to be leveled before the roof goes on.
Just bought my first house and I'm going through a similar process. Thanks for sharing your methodology! Looks like the laser level is going to be a necessity for me, too.
I, too, just bought a home over 100 years old. I'm going to have people come out and give me quotes. I'm proposal going to have to do it myself in the long run, and this video really helps.
Love the demonstration. Unloading of a structure by jacking is crucial when repairing or replacing members. There are folks hammering shims and beams into place.
I would caution against the use of those types of shims due to the amount of shrinkage that will occur and minimum bearing area requirements for setting a wooden beam on concrete. The biggest challenge is that the material properties of wood differ in every direction possible and the shrinkage will not be uniform. It loosens, one small area ends up carrying all the load, high local concentration of stresses, crushing (beam or CMU), loss of a support point, and a little extra bounce. Check your local codes for minimum bearing area requirements.
Do not allow anyone to make repair or remove structure if they have not investigated the interior to determine what is above the location (aka structure along load path). If they have not investigated and jacked, some will be banging all day trying to squeeze that beam into place.
Well done guys my wife and I have been building a house together for 4 years , and while some times difficult when you see the end result of your hard work it is so rewarding.
Yes it’s always so great looking at then end result! Best of luck guys thank for watching
I have to show my wife this video, I’m a one man show in my crawl space.
Haha that’s normally the case for me too but she really stepped up!
I am just a homeowner that has built a few homes and rebuilt a 1927 home which needed extensive rebuilding of joists that were over spanned and undersized. We tore out living room floor for access to work and discovered the 2X6 joists spanning 32 ft were 2 rough cut 20 ft long 2X6 and were supported mid span by a long row of sandstone blocks that had cracked and settled over 90 years, some of the joist were sitting on native soil/sand. We jacked rim joist up from inside, replaced 2x 6 joists with 2X8 speced out by structural architect. But first we removed the row of sandstone blocks, leveled and temp supported structure and poured a bomber concrete footer after digging out crawl space to minimum 18 inch code, we have termites. Built a 3X6 pressure treated stud wall on the long footer with separation from wood and concrete as per code. Installed a nice hickory floor on top and insulated R19 between bays and installed vapor barrier under insulation. I am about to level a 1910 church I just bought and no way will I use hollow cinder blocks as they can catastrophically crack as they have little strength. I will use laser or water level to figure out where the sagging 10X12" beam needs to go, use screw or hydraulic jacks with blocks to temp level, pour concrete footers hopefully to bedrock which is a foot to 18 inches down and use post and beam with thick burly simpson style connectors and adhere to code or better. I suggest your fix is good for a temp fix, but you might consider a more permanent solution. If it was a 2 story structure, the cinderblocks would be very dangerous and a hazard to be under the home. I hope others watching will understand that using cinderblocks as structural piers is not a good solution, especially if you double stack without wood in-between them as they will crack under load better to mix up concrete and form concrete piers with large posts.
I came here to say he should have poured footers and made it permanent.
Must be really arduous to dig in that small space?
I have 150 year old farm style two story house. Front is original, back half was torn off in the 70s and rebuilt. Most rooms have 16ft spans like yours with 2x10 joists. I also had flat boards in the newer sections for mid-span supports which makes no sense. I'd suggest using steel plates between the jack and the wood. Jacking joists might be okay, but moving a load bearing or exterior wall with a heavy duty jack will punch right through the wood before it lifts anything. I could not tell if there was a footing below the new concrete blocks under the encapsulation. Something needs to be under that even if flat treated 2x12s or it will eventually sink. Pouring footings in a tight crawl space is almost impossible without pulling up the floors.
I just had a estimate by two different people. One is a regular contractor and the other were the Amish. They both said the same thing, that my little room off the back of the house should have had footings, I told them no, because the room is held up by logs and they have been there for 31 years. If they lasted that long, I am not worried about jacking them up again and just putting in some shim blocks. They want both wanted about the same amount of $4500 to raise the room back up with out putting in any footings.
I have a 110yr old house that i am having to do this to. Its definitely a job
i know your pain
Owner of a 1920’s shotgun/farm house in north Texas and I do this every couple years, the ground is always moving!
Dig a hole and pour a footing and use 6x6 posts
I’d like to find a husband that would get under a crawl space with me!
This is so common in my life, the gals are the ones with the guts to check things out and the husbands are scared of spiders. Good on ya.
Did you have finished walls inside when you jacked up the floor and did it crack the drywall or separate at all. I’m looking at a 1906 Victorian that someone walked out of the remodel on and most of the interior is done but they didn’t level the flooring first.
greetings folks; just curious, where in georgia are yall? i am there too..................g
my husbands home we inherited is from 1900 his great grandfather built it. we have it lifted now!! going to be a mess
That’s some nice treated floor trusses and vapor barrier for 100 years.
Thank you. Like most 100 year old house the floor was pretty much rotted out so it was removed in most of the house. Just leaving the foundation and walls . Then they hung new floor joist and plywood. There’s still a few portions left that have the old 1x4 decking but most of it didn’t survive. The vapor Barrier we did about a year ago due to standing water and the moister levels along with a sump pump and whole house dehumidifier.
In the beginning of the video we explained the house was actually moved that it’s current spot in 1947 on skids! 2 long trees pretty much at that point the house was cribbed up in the air and a block foundation was build. Then they lowered the house on it. Same way they would when moving any other house and left the tree pole skids under the house. In 1980 they added the front portion and the rear as explained in the beginning of the video. Here’s our email littledreamersfarm@yahoo hit me up I’ll give my cell number it’ll be much easier to give you the whole history over the phone if your interested. Thanks for watching
@@LittleDreamersFarm I don't think it would help my situation.. Mine has the old field stone cellar under the middle third and a partial crawl space under a small section under the other 1/3 the last 1/3 is walled off. 2 stories tall with a balloon frame.
Brings back memories. I've been working on a 100 year old house for about 40 years 😁. It seemed like a good idea at the time because we needed a roof over our heads but today I often wonder if it would've made better sense to have demoed it and started new.
@@jerseyjim9092 haa..me too...one thing bleeds into the next..Ive already remodeled things I've already remodeled before..Im committed to most likely dying here now.
Nice helper! All I found under my house was some petrified rats.
That narrow space makes my neck hurt just looking at it. I know it could be worse, but still...
Definitely not a fun job. Thanks for watching!
Nails are preferred for nailing the three 2x6's together, because they have more sheer strength, then screws. If you have used, say, sheetrock screws, you have made a mistake because they do not have the sheer strength to construct a beam, and you need to get under there and add some nails into the beams, both sides. There are more expensive screws, that you can also use. They are fairly common anymore.
Awesome that’s good advice thank you.
Never use sheetrock screws for fastening structural materials. They are very brittle and easily sheer under load, especially as the load flexes over time. Deck screws and other screws made for construction are made of different metals and are much stronger.
@@markmoore4088 so you agree with my comment (lol).
@@normbograham Yes!
She’s a badass for jumping in on this project, diffidently a keeper!
Yes she is! Thanks for watching man
Just came across your channel, and I must say, it almost brings a tear to my eye to see a young clean cut couple take on a project of this magnitude, and do it right! You two can do an awful lot of upgrades, just do your research and use common sense, GREAT JOB! America needs more young couples like you.....
Wow! We so appreciate that, thank you! That means a lot! ❤️ Thank you for watching!
Very nice outcome. Thought it was very cool that your wife helped(even though she looked like she wasnt happy but did it anyway). Like myself my wife helps me with alot of things like this. All our children are grown so its just she and I. Great to see husband and wife working together. As it should be. Congratulations and thank y'all as this is my next project. ❤
2x4 floor joisting...😂😂 thats good for a 6x6 shed. Home has to be 2x10 minimum depending on span
Yep we were pretty shocked to find it under there! Thanks for watching!
Hey guys! Thank you so much for your support! Check out our new Farmhouse build series! Building a Farmhouse from Scratch: ruclips.net/video/zB9vlAX4DYk/видео.html
Find one that will get into your crawlspace with you.... excellent advice! Great video. What's that material you have laying on the ground under there?
It is a vapor barrier that we had installed a year or so prior when we cleaned the crawlspace out! Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much ! I have a family vacation home that was built in the 1920s … balloon frame … with a crawl space !! So I just went through what you’re doing . I had to build a wall underneath it to get rid of the bouncy floor where you walk !!! Absolutely nothing is 16 on center !!!😃
Can I borrow your crawl space cleaner for a while? That area looks more sanitary than some living rooms. Mine is more like the remnants of a washed out creek bed, with lots of spiders, dirt, and old bottles and bricks.
Haha thank you
I’ve got a sagging beam at about 4” at the deepest over 16’ length. The beam has no support currently. Once I get in position to crank it up what would be your recommendation on how much at a time and the time between. I’m thinking maybe 6 weeks to get the 4” up.
My house was built in the 1960s. The floors are sagging. I have no idea how to fix it.
Neither did I when I bought this one. turned out once I got in there and just started working it wasn't to bad. thanks for watching.
İ need to lift one corner of the house then put some support underneath the footing. My question is, after lifting up the house, how am l supposed to fill the gap between footing and soil? Or it should be ok just the way it is? Can you guys gimme some ideas please thank you.
Hey thanks for watching. The ideal
Method would be to Jack up the house dig out the dirt and bit. Pour a concrete footer/base. Then Jack the corner up slowly to level. Then fill it the gap from new footer to bottom of house. Via concrete block mortar etc. God bless
So helpful! Even the video showing HOW you got that support beam under there. Thank you!
Thanks man, this is really helpful. I saw other videos where they used cedar shims to help keep termites from getting interested enough to crawl up to the house, don't know if that's a concern there or if that is effective enough. Anyway wish y'all the best with the house and your beautiful baby.
Glad it helps! We had a termite bond in place and had it treated regularly so not a big concern. Thank you so much for watching!
My crawlspace too tight to get into. Need to cut holes in floor, work from above.
We’ve done that too! The nursery we had to go from above.
I just jacked my center girder beam, 3-2x8's sistered siting on cinderblock piers of 4 to 5 feet apart. I needed 50 ton jacks, bought off Amazon, 20 tons were not enough, brand new defective cheap Torrin jacks from HDepot, only advantage was they are short. The 50 ton are 10 inch minimum height. For temporary footing, dug into dirt 3 inches, and laid in 5 layers of 3/4 plywood squares 2x2 feet. Easily held the weight, but did press the plywood into the dirt a ways. For the shims cut full cover boards over cinderblocks, no wedges, trimmed to proper thickness with table saw. jacked on both sides of the pier shimmed to proper height, move to the next pier. This took us 2 people about 5 hours of work time. House built in 1973, the ground is somewhat sandy.
one way to tell your main girder is straight, eyeball along its length. And check the door frames. A lot of 2nd story bedroom doors, you can tell by looking at the tops of the doors. We jacked each pier seperately and it was ok. Other issue I have is first floor bathroom joists have sagged so need a new shorter girder of maybe 12 feet and 2 piers severla feet in on both ends of new girder. We have slate entrance foyer held fine and upper story bathroom tile floors, nothing cracked. Honestly was concerned, but it is like a reinforced slab, hard to crack.
These jacks worked and are not too expensive. I bought two.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CS6KCOS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Absolutely amazing. You are going through the same thing I am right now. My house was put at it's current location (on 2.53 acres) in 1936 but the house is much older. it sure is coming along great. Best thing is that I purchased it with cash so no mortgage payment or rent.
I've read that the tweaks to leveling the floors need to be done over many weeks. What are peoples thoughts on this?
I totally agree this was done over 4-5 weeks just didn’t want to ruin multiple outfits lol
Great (and entertaining) video! Dealing with a sinking floor in a 1948 Memphis home. I HATE closed in spaces, but thinking of giving this a go. Out of curiosity, did you encapsulate the crawlspace yourself? Just added gutters to the home, but I'm thinking that encapsulating would be worthwhile.
I would always recommend encapsulating your crawlspace! We had a local company come out and do this home for us. Worth every penny.
Thanks for watching!!
i have log like that under my house
I'm already having a panic attack, claustrophobic.
Right??? It’s no fun!
Lmao, did you shave only half your face in the beginning of the video?
Maybe?
9:34 is that a cobweb over his right shoulder?
Typically most people put the level on the floor of the crawlspace. With all the irregularities in the floor it may be impossible to find a true level spot. Suggestions right here. Find the high spot of the floor and put the level on that and project from there. This will make all floors true level. When I saw you do this you passed the litmus test right away. Thanks for the video.
I like the laser level. Now I need one of those. I have 100yr old house I just started to renovate. It's been vacant over 9yrs.
It's been so useful, one of my most used tools now! I have it linked in the description
A couple of short pieces of 4 inch pvc for rollers under the house , just a thought
That would have been very useful! :)
Yep, and pull from a vent on the other side. But, you did a great job doing it your way! And you got your boss wife to spend time in your world, Haha. Great job!
What about that timber rattlesnake 🐍 sitting on that crossbeam!
Haha lucky those aren’t in my parts of the country. We did have a giant rat snake down there somewhere. I found the skin hanging on a rafter. That was interesting.
Good video but I'm scratching my head ... all the lumber looks new, and much of it pressure treated. (I came here looking for help leveling the floors in my 1700s farmhouse. By comparison my cellar looks like Mirkwood.)
Thanks for watching! We’ve been replacing wood over the years so yes some is newer treated wood. All the newer stuff is in addition to the original beams. I believe there’s a moment on the video where I show one of the old beams.
People like you make this country great. Thank you for your way of see life and for the videos.
I would have moved the 2x6's one at a time and fastened them together in place instead of moving and lifting the beam as one piece. Much less chance of injury if it falls or back injury from lifting it.
It’s a good idea although with the lumber sold today it would’ve been impossible to get the beam straight! I had to lay all the 2x6 vertical on my garage floor and add excessive weight and clamping force to get them all together and straight.
@@LittleDreamersFarm ...something I was hoping to see. Maybe next time, haha.
Use oak shims dude. Those shims will crush. Just a tip.
thanks man
Thanks for posting this. My husband and I recently purchased a home that is 122 years old this year...we need all the floors leveled and I can't find anyone local to do it so I'm going to have to do it myself...oh, joy....this video helps! I look forward to seeing more.
How much did it cost to level your home.
Have worked in tighter crawl spaces. Leveled many floors over the years.
I couldn’t imagine this one felt so tight. Especially at first took a minute to relax
How firm was the surface beneath your masonry blocks? Should you have poured a two-foot-cube concrete foundation below each masonry block p?
What did you use to film?
How did you guys get the plastic under there? I have 115 year old home I wish mine was in this shape but we will get there no love has been show this this house in over 20 years
We had a company come out and encapsulate the crawl space which included a sump pump drain system, water vapor barrier (plastic) and humidifier. Took a lot of work, and we had to pull out a lot of debri and junk before the company could even start! Ours was also neglected for 20 years as a rental property before we purchased it!
@@LittleDreamersFarm yes us too! Just pure neglect and poor Craftsman's ships/ bandaid type of stuff we have taken so many truck loads of junk from attic and basement and pulling all types of wood out it's been work but it's slowly getting there this looks like a dream very very cool job
Great Job! You mentioned the three 2X6 beams were able to hold up your load 2X over. What referenced building standard did you use to calculate these loads? - May you please share and explain? Thanks!
Thanks for watching. It was actually the national load span chart for 2x lumber. I found online during the time. There is some educated guessing for your wall load and weight but pretty straight forward.
3 weeks later of peeling deteriorated insulation, kicking dirt and dust clouds, I keep getting inspired by how clean and well lit your work area is, as I start jacking up parts of the perimeter, I watch your video over and over, and I’m shocked by how much more depth I get..
Hope the rest of your projects are going well. I’ll be lucky to close up the crawl space this summer 🤞🏻🤞🏻
That’s so great to hear! It gets easier and it’s so worth it in the end. I wish I had photos of when we first bought the place. It look like a dump in a NY city sewer lol no lie. Thanks for the kind words and support.
How many ton bottle jacks are you using?
3 ton they work fine, I didn't raise the house but rather raised the slack back up.
Someone put TONS of time into cleaning up that crawlspace, even vacuumed out the voids and all! Would this leveling process be different at all for the wall/perimeter end of the beams?
Next time, use 2x4's for ramps to get the beam lifted In place. Sliding is way easier than lifting.
you should have non-compressible shims and put termite shields on top :)
are those shims a form of plastic?
Creosote
This house you are working under is like a brand new house compared to the nightmare I'm working under.
I just got a new roof on the house would leveling the floors do any damage to the roof?
Don't see how leveling the floors could damage the roof. There shouldn't be any structural link between the two.
1-2” shouldn’t hurt a bit. Your roof is connected through the trusses and wall studs. So if your floor is sagging a bit your roof is probably doing the same. Shingle roof is very forgiving with movement. If it’s metal I’d try to keep it under 2” of movement before I would investigate the attic also and take some measurements to keep any eye on any shifting. Thanks watching
You said you used 2x4's nice work on all but the supports need to be hard wood SPF (southern pine fur) will over time rot and or compress it is a soft wood
Thanks!
@@LittleDreamersFarm Great job that video was fun to watch I had to do the same thing to a house I’m in right now that was built in the 30s the kitchen was sagging so bad that a roller cart I have would take itself right across the floor I was lucky enough to find two beams on marketplace metal 4 inch tall I-beams that I put under it and raised it back up an inch and watched your video before I did it
I got an old added on bathroom..falling off the house with no foundation..its nasty..but I have a better idea of what to do now..yikes.
You guys make such a fantastic team.
It's a delight to watch you work.
😊
I have a floor leveling project but I have a couple of complications, one there's a chimney in the center of the house that kind of ties everything together vertically and two I have some settling in the land towards the rear of the house in general which caused the concrete foundation around the perimeter to sag as well...
I have a fieldstone foundation farmhouse that was built in the 1910's, and I'm dealing with this issue. The difference is there is no "crawlspace" to speak of. They literally built the house with only bout 8" of space between the subfloor and the ground. It does have a root cellar and for the most part everything is structurally sound. The house and foundation have maintained perfect homeostasis with the ground and it hasn't moved at all. The issue is for me that to level the house, I have to do it from above and go in with a saw - cut up the old subflooring to reveal the joists and start leveling from there. Since I don't have $120,000 for a complete remodel i'll be doing all the work myself. Thanks for the video!
Hi, I wanted to ask what is the material that you used for your tarp? It looks really sturdy. We are getting ready to do some leveling on our 1940"s house and we would like to use that type of material to crawl around on top of instead of dirt.
I was thinking of modifying a mechanics creeper with wider wheels,, but I’m now considering using foam pads, (use them for camping a lot)
I just open up craw space door and cat knocks me over trying to get in there. She thinks we're going hunting.
Haha we’ve opened ours and have had cats run out! Thanks for watching
OMG, what a beautiful kid. You should bring him/her in at the beginning. Want to see the angle again.
Thank you!
I need to level my 105 year old farm house. The beams under the floor are tree trunks with bark still on them.
What ton bottle jack did you use?
3 ton and a 5 ton
It looks like u are u using treated lumber? Why? It is full of liquid treatment that will eventually dry and shrink.
the music is a huge disrttion. i want to hear what your thoughts are as you discover new challenges.
ray fiddler thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!
Pretty creepy that this video showed up on my feed after talking with somebody about doing this to a house....anyways... Very helpful video!
Me too. I have not typed an searches. My devices are clearly listening for key words. Creepy!
Same hear. Never did a search but talked about it
Glad it was helpful! RUclips is creepy for sure sometimes...Thanks for watching though!
You guys were awesome. You’re fortunate to have a wife that can and will help you with that type work. Thanks for sharing. 👊🏼
Your wife is a legend, what capacity jacks did you use, thanks.
I have a situation my cabin is lower on one side. How much can I jack it at one time? 1/2" at a time? I heard windows could break if overjacked. True?
Question - I need to crawl under my place, we bought July 2023 - it's a 1950. Why couldn't you use a 2" paver above the concrete block instead of 2x4 pieces? And then shimmy that or use concrete adhesive between the cinder block and the paver. Just curious, seems like wood is more likely to deteriorate. Thank you for your video, this is a cold weather project, but it's already hot here in Texas.
Honey....can you crawl down under thee old barn and rejack the rafters up off my back?
I poured new footers and made new beam with 3*2x8 mid span of 24 foot wide house under 12 foot 2x8 floor overlapping the center beam. That was a real PITA job
Question: what’s under the plastic? Is it just dirt?
If so I think you may experience an ongoing problem with your house settling.
I would highly suggest using some solid concrete flat blocks and then set your core block on top of the flat block. This will give you much more solid surface area to help keep the block from sinking in to soil below.
Just my opinion.
Either way great job at what your doing. Anything was better than what you were dealing with before.
Thank you for sharing this video, it's excellent. One question: Why didn't you pour concrete footings for the new piers that are holding up the floor beam? Over time, won't the dry cinder block piers sink / settle?
Again, thank you for your video. I'm looking to do more or less the same project of a 1901 house.
What a wonderful and wholesome plan you both have! Congrats! Good future ahead.
Thank you so much
I have a question for everyone. Trying to level my house like this. 25 foot wide, and one support in the center. And it has sunk 6 or 8 inches. I am trying to jack using a solid 8 by 16 block for footer support, that the jack sets on.
the jack is pushing the block into the ground. And I only have mabey 6 inches to work under the main beam now. What can i use to act as a base to jack up on?
Holy heck I wish my house was so clean! Built in 1882 with box walls (think like a thick picket fence instead of studs) and a 16" brick foundation with partial basement added later. I've got a porch that the previous owner closed up. Now it has settled from the added weight and no way to get under it. I'm trying to dig it out, get a jack in there, and raise it up before laying cement. Might see about blocks instead if that is a reasonable thing to do.
I've tried this under my mobile home and it doesn't last more than two years because of frost and clay. The weight of the cinder blocks causes them to sink and teeter even with a patio stone underneath the block. Next I'm going to try cribbing with 16" sections of 8x8 pieces of pressure treated wood.
1:50 I caught that lol
Your crawl space looks great compared to mine. Mine looks like the kind of place that would hide clues to a 50 year missing person cold case. CREEPY!
My girlfriend and I just bought our first house at 21. It's 104 years old. It's been a trip working on it. Thankfully we don't have too much sagging going on, but there's just one wall that's all screwed up. It's not supported by a joist AND whoever did the plumbing for the bathroom that the wall separates cut out like a 5 foot section of the bottom plate. I'm looking for some tips on how to fix it. Should we tear out the floors so we can completely replace the whole bottom plate? Or just scab in some wood where they cut it away and add in another joist underneath? If you have an email I can send some pictures if you don't mind giving some ideas? Thanks.
Our floor joists are amazing.. just have corner to lift up