How To Jack Up Your House
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Learn the proper way to install Temporary support posts and jack up a sinking house. This is a great way to correct problems before installing a permanent solution. For links to purchase the products in this video CLICK SHOW MORE ⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇
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“If you’re watching this video it’s because something has happened in your home and you’ve got to be creative with repairing your structure. .” Wrong..it’s because it 430am and I don’t know what I’m doing with my life
I just want to build but the government has too many rules.
I have a suggestion - God has a great plan for your life, I never knew to ask him this - until I learned about deeper faith through the Fellowship of Christian Athletes as I played sports in college. Read Psalm 1, and keep read one per day, you will gain faith in how much God loves you and planned - unfortunately, a lot of our parents never told us this. I know have peace, direction, trials like anyone does, nothing is perfect, but I have a Savior who loves me and will help me when I ask - and I ask all the time!
You're not alone Tyler.,
@@janetstone236 Take your Kool-Aid elsewhere Janet
Same
I have an old house like this. The previous owner jacked it all at once and broke the main tree beam. Housing inspector missed it and now I have to deal with it. If you could please break that beam in your house so I can watch the repair video 😁
LOL, No matter how much I would like to help you with that I think I might have to decline on your offer. Call a structural engineer for advice. Cheers!
LifeOutdoors 2day SAME! I have two broken trees in my basement from the same dang problem. We gotta catch that guy and make him repair what he did to our places. 😂
This is probably the most honest and funny post I have ever seen on a DIY video. hahaha!
this is the most honest request I have seen.
Be glad the windows didn't shatter, and the door frames twist. That's always fun. (Not my house, an acquaintance that refused to listen to my warnings.)
I lost it when you said necessary to be sober.
Any concerns about all that pressure being put on the slab?
Your lucky you can stand straight up I have to be on my stomach the whole time...
Yeah man... Dreading the upcoming job
I have to do mine, 42 inches crawl space, and I’m no gymnast.
My foundation is 7 feet high on the low end of the house and 3feet high on the high end of the house. Needless to say anything that goes in my crawl space is on the low end of the house with 7 feet ceiling(floors).
@@danielbeauchamp4655 42"... lucky! I'll be doing this in my 30" crawl space :D
@@davidrl41 30"? Your blessed. I have 8" from dirt to joist. I will be removing the floor to dig down to the min code of 24" at least then rebuild level. Been putting it off 3 years, still have my low profile car jack under our "school room" from 3 years ago
I had to replace some load bearing posts on the back on my beach house. The posts were 8' 3" long. I have an hydraulic jack and when I saw this video I thought, cook, I can do that! So I used this jack and a 6' 4x4 post to lift the house up - - just a couple inches, but enough to put the new post (actually 2) in place, and then 'lower' the jack to 'lock' the posts into place. Very very cool. You guys saved me a ton of expense, and the results were amazing. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.
Great video as always. If I were to add anything, I would set the posts on a piece of pressure treated lumber to distribute the weight on the floor. I would also throw a level on the post to ensure its plumb before final tightening.
yeh the level for sure, i was surprised he didn't do that step
Good Job on the video, my first time seeing logs used as floor joists! One suggestion which is a must is to use a level on the side of the post before securing it. Adjust one edge until it is plum, then rotate the level around the column 90 degrees and confirm that edge is plum. This will confirm that the base of your post is exactly below the top plate, now your post is pushing straight up, especially important if using this on floor joists that could buckle if you are pushing on an angle. If the post is not straight it may not hold its rated capacity. I kept seeing your level in the background of the video and waiting for you to use it lol! Also worth mentioning that if install on a concrete floor, the slabs in basements are not very thick. If this is a permanent install, it is to most codes and worth it to pour a concrete footing under the jack stand/ lally column. Otherwise with time the floor may buckle, (google for images of this) on my drawings they wanted a 18"x18" at 18" deep footing. Oh and I purchased those same columns at Home depot. Much better than the others I have purchased in the past from other stores just like you said.
Thanks for the video! and 400K + views is impressive!
Thank you.
I'd suggest checking the thickness of the concrete floor below that post, or at least using a couple of pieces of 2x12 or such to distribute the weight a bit. It'd be a real pain to have that post break through a chunk of hollow or weak floor on 1" thick concrete and erase all of your hard work! I assume for a final fix, you'll be digging down and pouring foundations right? Great videos - keep 'em coming!
Hi Richard, we will be excavating and installing 2' x 2' pads where the point loads will be for sure.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY can you show how you did that?
I checked your channel. I have seen other guys do this-make their own forms, get a concrete truck, etc. etc.
Bravo Richard, common sense rules, foundations first then supports,,,easy,
Did break through a crappy floor in my old house that seemed to be leveling compound poured on top of cinders from the original coal furnace.
Caution: Make sure your temporary post on the floor jack is fully plumb (use a level on 2-sides). Do the same with your new lolly column. Personally, I would not use a car jack on wheels-the wheels on the car jack are designed to allow the jack to "roll-out" as the jack is lowered. You don't want your jack to roll anywhere when lifting a floor joist or loaded beam. I prefer a good quality bottle jack. Great video and channel. Stay safe people.
Great points
yeah, this video is suspect - like really, you don't need to make sure your support post is level? wtf
I prefer to use a mechanical jack versus hydraulic jack. Hydraulic jacks can bleed down, mechanical jacks won't.
@@courgetteeplumb 😀
Jacking up a floor that has sagged over decades can create a whole new set of problems . things like doors no longer closing , countertops and other level surfaces going off level , tiles cracking , walls and ceilings cracking , floorboards lifting and squeaking or splintering . Beware if you do this in a finished house . You might have to deal with other issues . This should be mentioned in this video .
True, but from one cracked joist (knothole), I have doors that don't want to close anymore, creaky spots, and I can't remember what all. Once I'm set up, I don't need to rush. However, I am looking forward to swapping out some of my problems for new ones.
Do it over weeks or months so the house can slowly adjust.
I've had to jack a couple of houses, and my new house will definitely need a sill plate replacement, and to fix a sagging centerline. This is an awesome video, and I'm definitely getting a car jack now!!
The other thing that I appreciate is how he covers the "common sense" stuff that isn't common.
To anyone jacking up their house. Just be careful. Make sure the jack is on a flat ground and you're jacking straight up. I've seen bottle jacks fly out like a dam cannon ball which could've easily killed someone while they're jacking up a house. I have no experience in this method with an automtoive tool but i'm assuming if the wood post flys out due to it not being straight, it'll do the same thing and whack you so hard it'll hurt you really bad or even kill you.
This guy is one of the best uploading videos. He has a ton of knowledge and the personality to deliver it thoroughly.
I just bought a house and one things I need to do is this. Thank you do much for your videos your saving me tons of money
But, my house is already"jacked up".
LMFAOO
Thank you! My dad won't hire anyone, so we're watching to do it ourselves....you DIY guys rock.
How did it go?
Having once witnessed a 4x4 post gave way with the center beam of a two-story house lifted about 1/2” off of the adjacent column, I’m pretty strongly opposed to using a floor jack for this purpose. Having the post ever so slightly off plumb can cause the jack to roll forward and dislodge the post. A heavy duty bottle jack is a vastly better choice for this task, and should be set on wide lumber - a couple of short 2x12s, 1.5” of 2’ x 2’ plywood, etc. - rather than bearing on the slab across a relatively small footprint. Otherwise this was a pretty interesting video.
04:10 Don't mean to quibble, but those are bolts, not shear pins. A shear pin is designed to shear (fail) under a certain load. Definitely don't want shear pins failing the floor to preserve the jack-post.
That nail he shot into the concrete did not go well at all. He likely used the wrong LOAD. Then, the screws he put into the log were all wrong! A bottle jack is wht most pros use for this and they also use concrete filled steel posts in many cases (where, I suppose, they are available).
Watch a few more videos before following this fellow's lead.
This. is. so. satisfying. Everyone told me this couldn’t be done. To which I say: watch Home RenoVision DIY.
I’m gonna jack up my jacked up house. 💪👩🏼🔧
Cheers Katie!
They charged my neighbor $4500 dollars to do that before they sold the house and only showed up once. I guess there are a few half ass foundation companies out there. It took them a couple of hours to complete. I would feel really screwed if I paid that for a foundation company to do that for me.
People will tell you things like that because they're stupid. Structures are jacked up all the time.
@@late4suppa1 You can also literally collapse your house. You would pay not only for expertise but for insurance. Your homeowners insurance isn't going to cover your collapsed house if you did it yourself.
@@wjerame OK, let's not wet ourselves. Obviously not a job you want to take lightly, but again not something beyond an informed Do It Yourself type homeowner. If you want to hire experts to do all of your work, be my guest.
My structural engineer said a post like that, which is in two parts held together by metal pins, is actually only supposed to be temporary and needs to be replaced by a post that is one solid piece. any comments about that? I'm having it replaced btw. Thanks
The metal post should be absolutely plumb. Easy to do. You don't know the thickness nor strength of the concrete floor below the post. It needs to be reinforced to properly transfer the weight on the post to the ground or it could punch through. You make it look simpler than it is. Thank you.
A house we lived in several years ago , you could put a marble on the floor and it would roll all the way to the window at the front of the house !
When I got into the crawl space ,some of the support piers had been removed ! I had to jack it up and build new supports In several places !
I have no idea how this was missed by the surveyor!
Surveyor? Why would he be in your basement? Structural Engineer maybe. I bet the builder never used one. Hell, the owner probably built the house himself.
@@GeorgeMinton-jb8ky I think he meant to say home inspector.
Soooo many things skipped over, I suggest everyone use this for ref. Only.
Nearly everything wrong with this video. Do not listen to this guy and think you know what you're doing.
If you don't have a cement bottom and it's just sand how can you still line up the wood floor
Make dam shor thars a footing under that Lally column not just an the dert our old 4 inch floor
I like how the Dad doesnt lord it over the son and the young gentleman gets to offer his opinion as well. He seems to be absorbing all of this rather than just tolerating listening to his Dad preach at everyone.
I surprised you don't use a bottle jack. You can buy a 20 ton bottle jack for like $70. Using a car jack on a house makes me scared. Lol.
Why is the auto jack used, if the jack post is being installed? Aren't they both for the same purpose? And don't we want to raise the ceiling in small increments as you say with those half-turns, instead of the apparently more aggressive auto jack?
20 ton Bottle Jack is my go to for jacking up houses. But I love the automotive floor jack idea.
The automotive jack keeps me from lifting too fast since it has limitations. A 25 would likely cause me to lift it all into place at once and break everything. Cheers!
can you please tell us the name of the jack post the thick top plate is what im looking for
Whoa, I thought “trees” was industry slang for a beam in your last video, but those are actual tree trunks. Crazy.
LOL, RIGHT!
I thought the same thing, then I said holy crap, that's bark!!
I wouldn't recommend doing it this way at all tbh. I would use proper house jacks, two magnetic levels for the post and the proper bolt sized screws for the top and the proper concrete anchors for the floor. idk, that's just me. And to know if the floor is level I'd have levels placed on the floor upstairs and have a spotter tell me when it's level. Or go back and forth making adjustments, cause idc if the ceiling if level, I want the floor level.
I am just finishing up doing some of this in my house. Sistering joists and raising them with bottle jacks and and these supports. Every time I release a bottle jack I have the same look on my face that he did. Like, ok ok yup it's gonna stay. Over 20 joists sistered in 2 weeks and every time.
Only advice I might add is that when releasing the jack you should do it in a controlled way. If you release it quickly and the lollicolumn or car isn't secured properly it will give you time to react. If you just drop it fast then there's no going back.
There are 2 sheer pins on a snow blower because there are 2 auger sections that turn independently of each other. 2 pins are required to protect both sections of auger.
Can the metal plate contact the concrete if post is permanent? Won’t moisture from the cement slab rust the metal plate? Thanks Jeff!
What are the name of the post there on the box. Where do you by them. I’m gonna need three for a span of at least 25 ft. Your awesome by the way and amazing instruction. Glad I joined your page. BTW what’s the rule of thumb for placement of post. Every 7ft or what. Thanks again!
Ha ha you made me laugh today, as I am preparing a sister floor joist to my 1965 A-frame foundation repair - you said, You've gotta be 'creative in your structure'. ha, yes, unfortunately, the smart/dumb guys who built this, failed to place a concrete pier at the peak of the front angled wall, and the center point is simply lying on the joist, which has a bit of water damage, as the other smart/dumb guys who replaced the front decking with 'Trex', failed to add flashing!!! Oh, if they only had a brain I would not be doing this on my day off - Thanksgiving 2020!, But give thanks in all things, thank you GOD that I have a house!
MAKE SURE THE JACK CAN'T MOVE, it is on wheels it is designed to move as a vehicle is lifted, in your application it is able to be scoot out from under the prop. By placing the jack on a substantial block of wood lifting the wheels off the floor it will not only immobilize the jack but also avoid the point loading from the wheels.
Zeudog, the point of stress is on the wheel's rod
great point!
Or a 20 ton bottle jack. Stronger, no wheels and it's lighter to move around.
Pretty sure you should never do that, it has wheels to center the load, the jack moves not the car or post as it may be. It's the opposite of what you're thinking. If you put it on blocks as you jack it up the bottom of the beam would be moving to the side. It can break your jack or in the case of a car it will be trying to move your car sideways. Hope that makes sense to ya.
a car jack has hinged movement, if you don't allow it to scoot while jacking, it will create an angle with the beam which is dangerous
1880's farm house..WOOOOOOOOO!!! so much to do.. I can't imagine the amount of awesome video content that your gonna share with us.
Things are about to get pretty crazy!
Just bought a 1900 farm home in northern Maine. It has it all, mold, rodents and of course foundational/structural problems... #prayforus
@@voiceofREASONS get yourself 3 cats
Best teacher. He takes such care in his communication.
"Make sure you have the right tools" Says the contractor using a car jack to lift a house. You need a need a screw jack to do this. An automotive hydraulic jack, especially a consumer model, could blow a seal and drop the load. Car jacks like this are wheeled because the arm doesn't lift vertically --it swings upward. If those wheels bind and the jack doesn't slide while lifting, you will drop the load!
Might as well just get a strongboy and be done with it in one go.
"It's necessary to be sober" 😂😂
Question: Do you get special funding to come in a do this kind of structural work on an old house? We are limited funds ourself and wondering if you would be interested in doing an educated video at our location in Vermont? There are some of the support beams in the basement already but really need more in place all over the basement. The last owner went in and placed those support jacks in the basement and the floor is still uneven. Your help and services would be greatly appreciated and would love to have you make a video for others to learn from. I know nothing about structure support other than there are many temporary support jacks in place.
What if you don't have concrete, but just ground, how would you stabilize the pole?
Hey Gary this video is uplifting! #cheers
LOving it!!
Oh come on stop it.
I love your videos you keep it real! It’s not rocket science a house in 4 walls and a roof. Some common sense and the will power any house can be repaired. Someone would say the house needs torn down when all it needed was a car jack and some house jacks.
Thank you so much for this. I'm saving a Victorian farmhouse and I need to level a few spots and you've demystified the process for me. Thank you.
For a temporary fix, this I oK however, to fix permanently, you will need to install a Center girder to support the entire width if the structure. This girder must be appropriately sized to support the entire load of the beams and be supported at each end into the foundation and having 2-3 concrete filled steel lally columns on individual foundations-of at least 2-3 ‘ depth. Once this girder is in place( you should have slowly raised the beams slightly above your finished girder height.) the temporary Lallys can be released so the beams then rest upon the girder. D9 not believe that your installation of this type of lally column is a permanent repair.
Did you pay attention? He said until the engineer comes up with a plan.
I am giving the standard practice for such situations, the engineer would determine the size of the central girder to properly support the anticipated live load and spacing of the cement filled lallys.
Yes and no, depends on the basement floor you might just have to reinforce with a good slab of concrete or that pole will just punch a hole in it.
Question: every week do I come back with the support 4x4 and jack each time before I do the half turn on the relevant adjustable posts? Or do I just half turn each post once a week? I’m having trouble doing the half turns with my wrench bc my house is 3 stories and I’m not that strong.
Thank you so much! I used this trick to save the roof over my deck today (support beam cracked from snow weight and broke off an anchor). Was able to slowly lift the entire deck roof back to level and buy myself some time to find better supports.
So is rhere a Part 2 to this video?
1880's row house, 3 floors (and one mud basement floor), One room in the center of the house on each floor (directly on top of each other) is sagging in one area. I'm thinking I'll have to do these jacks DIRECTLY on top of each other on all 3 floors (mud basement, floor 1 and floor 2) ???
Please do not follow the advice in this video. What he is doing is really dangerous. Take my word for it, I work as a structural mover/house raiser, you need the proper equipment.
I level houses. I do a few things different. But this is a great video for homeowners. Informative and good explanation. Great job
Anyone know what the temp columns are called?
Yes...In the text it says to see material used here "click show more", but it doesn't say that anywhere, and it's not clickable there. Do I have to join to see that??Any help appreciated!
To the makers: Love the video!! I'll be doing plenty this myself, starting asap (part of my house has sunk so bad it's pulling away from the main structure...fun! ) So, Thanks much for the great tutorial!
Be careful about knots in posts. I’ve had them blow up on me sending dangerous shards all the way across the room. Also make sure it’s plumb.
Unless I missed a part, shouldn’t you disconnect your plumbing and furnace before you jack up your house ?
People say that the slow jacking thing, but I never do. I just blast that sucker up in the air and it’s good 👍 if the wood is good enough to hold the house up it will be fine. I specialize in jacking and leveling homes in Ontario. Chris Wood Homes. Pretty good video.
Dear All
Where I can rent this gigantic
Jack up Post ??
Thank you
Where I can rent this gigantic
Juck up devise.
In a few days I’m have about 4 SmartJacks and supplemental beam installed (between 14 feet of space) to fixing a sagging floor in my kitchen do you think the SmartJacks are overkill?
Thank you for yr videos ....
I have a question ....we have a family home in newfoundland on the avalon....the house is approx 175 yrs old ...it is built on a rock foundation....the kitchen has dropped by about 2-4 inches and on top of the kitchen you have a bed room.....would the car jack system work for that as well over a time period of a few months ...bearing in mind theres only a two and a half foot crawl space ....
I bought an old 1897 house with a small utility basement and the rest a crawl space and I need to jack the floor in the crawl space. how many jacks can I use? The floor is about 20'x30'.
would you ever do a video on DIY repalcing a 1923 home 2 story house brick foundation with a new modern day foundation?
I have a problem with my foundation, as I’m jacking up a floor joist the floor sheathing is separating from the rim joist subsequently not lifting the sill and rim joists so I can add another sill plate till my floor is level. Please help with any advice you can provide me regarding this problem. Thanks for all your hard work in these videos. They have helped me immensely. Take care of yourself, bye for now
From past experiences, seeing beams like that gives me anxiety. I set up a laser level and set up floor jacks across any beam found sagging. I use 10 and 20 ton bottle jacks. I try to set up temporary supports and jack everything together. Crazy seeing what all leveling beams does upstairs! Good thing it wasn't in a crawl space!!
What kind of post can you use between the ceiling and the bottle jack that supports the floor? Yours is the only comment I've seen that mentions having 10 and 20 ton jacks, so I'm wondering what post is strong enough to compliment that
Now when you say you don't want anywhere in your basement going more than 16' with out a structural post... I'm in a situation where I have a 40 by 23 basement with an I-beam in the middle and one post is 11' away from the foundation wall and the other one is 14' away from the other foundation wall leaving 14' 9" between them. If I move the one at 14' just 2 feet away from the foundation wall making it 16' away from the foundation I'm not jeopardizing serious structural integrity in my house am I? I'm assuming even if this is even possible I'd need an engineer to approve this sort of thing anyways but I'm just curious what my options are.
I would have notched a flat surface out of the tree or made a block that match the tree surfac on 1 side and then on the side make sure its flat. Also if you secure to beam use lag screws. If you are securing to a joist like this id use structual screws Likely simpson structual ties brand much longer than the ones he used. I hate ramsets. Use tapcom screws. Drill 4 holes with a hammer drill and use the appropriate size tapcoms. Dont jack up the home as hard as much as he did that was very stupid to do. As for tightening the screw jacks dont do it every week. Do it every 2-3 weeks.
I have a side by side two family built in 1907. There are three 8x6 beams in the basement supported by nine old locust trees. The two outer beams have cracked through the center. The house is sagging hard toward the center two stair cases. Each side of the house has two floors with three small bedrooms and an attic. Could this process work on a house like this? Is the house too heavy for this DIY process? The previous owners installed some columns, but they are single pin columns which I would like to replace at minimum even if lifting up toward level isn’t an option.
Fell for this old house and found out all the floors slope to the middle. People don’t want to go near it. Sigh. Still have hopes
I was looking for real crazy stuff like this but nobody makes it. Everyone makes fairytale videos where everything is working perfectly. I want to see how to connect ledger board without rim joist and only stud.
Years ago, my parents wanted to have my house raised up and set back down onto concrete pillars in the crawl space to make the house last years and years longer. This was at the recommendation of the pest control guy since the house was sitting on wood.
My parents hired a crapy contractor who did garbage work. He jacked the house up, did not put in concrete pillars, then just pulled the Jack's out and left. The house then settled and twisted. Walls cracked, cabinets fell off walls, ect.
That's the state it's been in since. It's safe to live in, but it looks bad, and it's going to cost lots of money to repair, which I don't have and it's taking forever to try to get.
If only this video was around all those years ago. I could have shown it to my parents and may have been able to fix the garbage work that idiot did to my house. At least now, I know, so whenever I can get money together to remodel and fix the house, I'll know what to watch for.
You really make videos of everything a homeowner needs to know!! I have a similar issue going on in my place that's stopped me from installing new flooring, and this video will be very helpful for fixing that issue! A couple of questions: 1) What should I do if we don't have concrete on the ground? 2) Do you have a plan to do a video on addressing crawl space/basement issue? DIY Encapsulation, maybe? Thank you!
use high strength concrete to make some foundation supports. Don't use wood. Crawl Space Ninja might be able to help. They do videos on youtube. Drying out your basement is always good but expensive. Don't store wood or cardboard in your crawl space unless it is in a sealed plastic container with moisture absorbents in the containers. I even use a box fan to keep the air moving in my crawl space using bathroom style switch so it will trip if anything bad happens electrically speaking. I will only use the box fan for a year or two at the most and change them as they run all of the time. Hang the electrical cord from the floor above so it will not get wet. There is also a company called Apple Drains that does french drain videos. My low spot in the crawl space was wet because the drain was too high so I added a sump pit and a 40 foot french drain along the lower wall and it is dry? now. At least I can't see the water anymore. Replace the sump pump every three or four years if it runs a lot. I am not a professional but it worked for me. I even added light in my crawl space for $1200 and it is like daylight. The electrician added freezer lights in 3 locations for a 2500 sq foot house. No flashlights for me. Keep a 6 ft stick at the entrance of the crawl space so you can clear cob webs as you walk in or crawl in. I can't tell you how many cob webs I ate before I did this.
You could also buy a 10$ computer fan and attach it to one of your vents then seal around the fan. Those fans are meant to run 24/7 for years and they move plenty of air to keep radon and whatever else down. As far as dryness, only real solution is a dehumidifier. It’s worth it to buy a nice one. Aprilaire is the way to go. Installing yourself is a breeze. Even if you just lay down vapor barrier and a dehumidifier your life will be 10x better.
How many houses are out there that are lifted enough for a car jack? I'm currently working on one that doesn't have enough room under to crawl on hands and knees. Straight belly-worming through 3 openings with bottle jacks lol
My middle pier sank and beam got damaged how many jacks needed. I have 12 piers and beam, concrete piers and wood beams under the house. It sank about3 inches
6:22 I think I've watched too many horror films, cuz the first thing I thought of was "they're setting up how someone's going to get killed by that explosive stabby thing as a callback"
What's the difference between a jack post and a lally column? I've heard that Jack post are only temporary, but I admit that I have used them more as a permanent post so far...
Try this without a full basement to stand in and without a level concrete floor 🤣😂🤣 try this on a dirt base and 2 feet of clearance 💯... Oh yeah, and you're not on center with that "tree" 🤦🤦🤦
I noticed you cranking the posts counter-clockwise to increase their height and push up against the wood joist. Is that standard for all floor jacks? I need to reduce the pressure under my support beam and thought a counter-clockwise turn would reduce the extension of the adjustment bolt.
Do you have a video on how the hell to replace those tree joists with modern joists? I have an 1851 farm house with wood powder beetle issues. HELP! LOL
Great video and easy to follow. Do you have any video on Replacing Rooted Roofing Still Plates on a belt course ? Thanks
This was awesome. But how do you level off a regular raised house with 15 or so inches of crawl space? Now, that's what I call a challenge. Yes, that's my house and the soil is shifting because of the drought. When there is plenty of rain, the soil raises the house, but when there is a drought, the soil contracts, and the floors shift.
A couple very important points missed. You need to know what is under the floor plate. A 4" floor is not load bearing . Apply grease to the threads to ease the effort required.
Run a chalk line across your floor in the living area. When it is touching all the way across, you are level!
I would of used a bottle jack for 50 ton and made 2 temporary walls on each side and replace the tree log with a 6 by 6 and put new floor supports I worked for a construction company so I jacked buildings up b4 ones without a basement
Thank you for this. I can't seem to find the posts in your links....hoping to purchase them. Can you help?
I have an unusual issue. The stud wall at the back of a house I just bought needs to be both strengthened and increased in height.
It sounds easy except when you find out the basement height is 15 ft. The wall is 15 ft tall / it needs to be lifted 4-5 inches
It's not level it's called plum I don't think you know what you're doing there's a difference between level and plumb
I've been turning it with a maybe 1 foot wrench but suddenly it's pretty hard gonna need a lever. the sag still exists. . is the difficulty expected
1/4 turn a week..and use that level next to u...especially when ur jacking a rounded surface
Did you overlook telling the viewers about checking the weight bearing floor surface as a concentrated load in one place could crack and damage damp membrane and substrate !!
I actually searched for this video, all you ppl saying you’ve found yourself here from some other type of videos, I have to ask wtf are you guys watching
Hell of a video, thank you for pretty much all of the information given. My house was built in 1850 and it's been a nightmare to figure out how to solve the sagging floors, this simplifies the process immensely.
I love watching men work.
It is hard to get us to work but believe it or not I dug a 40 ft trench for a french drain. I gave up after that. At 70 years old I thought it would be a good time to stop. I think I will let the next owner finish it out if they want to. It will probably never happen.
It's what we do.
Good info.
I just got 2 posts replaced and installed.
This year I started my basement reno. Gutted the 60+ year old build, the things I saw. It was built and rebuilt before, reused and mixed (mill cut) 2x4s and 2x2s with scraps, wires like spiderwebs.
But the kicker was when I removed the 4 inches of subfloor they made.
Once it was lifted, my jaw dropped.
Who ever owned it in the 70-80s removed 1 of 2 support post.
And built the subfloor up and over the height of the post footing.
The other post was original 6x8 wood. The 2 story at that time was supported one side 16 to 8. across the 24ft beam (instead of every 8)
Bro, in my head I knew what to do.
But decided to subcontract someone in.
Best money spent.
Got 2 HD posts installed (used the original footings), set and leveled, and scoped beam.
Also explained how to adjust.
1 hour, no stress.
The process is pretty cool scoping the beam with a laser level to adjust post.
Almost forgot, you did not say anything about the footings where the posts should stand.
Please do not place posts anywhere other than the footing for it.
If not placed properly, post could puncture basement floor, like a straw in a plastic lid.
Side note, keep up these videos.
Good information is good information.
There are a million things to do as a home owner.
4:30 I don't think those are shear pins. Aren't those just bolts?
Since shear pins are designed to fail under certain load. Wouldn't that be bad? Thanks!
Technically, you are correct. Until they fail. Then they are shear(ed) pins :)
@@riverraisin1 LOL, good one. :-)
Though, I assume there is a chance they won't fail and something else will get the honor of being sheared. ;-)
Note when he says jack or floor jack he does not mean cheap he means quality or you may be paying a lot of money. buy good tools and you shouldn't have problems.