HD Sentinel is a good one too, it does a lot more than CrystalDisk. It is paid for but really good as it sits in your tray giving realtime info of temperature and sector issues. It will email you as well if things deteriorate, so great for servers and systems left running! It also allows you to repair the disk with surface and sector scans to force SMART refresh! I've never looked back!
The crucial executive utility I used at the end of the video (I think some people might have thought the end was when I was putting it back together) also tells you the hours, power cycles, health status and let's you upgrade the drive firmware (which I did a bit later). But thank you all for the alternative suggestions.
Another amazing repair. Just a quick tip for anyone wanting his model thermal camera. It is one of the very best for the cost out there. Make sure to look into the macro lens add on or kit as this gives you sharp detail for small components and board inspections. Most other cameras out there other than uni T may not have this option.
Thanks, yes it's a good camera although the only downside is that you also need a phone to use it. Ideally this arrangement in a stand alone device would be great.
I bought one of these also. I find the BIG advantage over a stand alone TC is that you can use a tablet with a BIG screen, or share the screen to a cast capable TV. You also don't have the frame rate of 9 FPS limit that most other TC's have.
Nice find! Looks like these small caps are getting to be somewhat common failure points. Northridge Fix just did a video on a Samsung 860 Evo SSD with a shorted cap a few days ago.
Thanks 👍Just a rough guess as it's only a decoupling capacitor to reduce noise on the supply. The supply we know is around 3V so anything higher would be fine for the voltage, and a typical value is around 0.01uf. I just pulled one from an old PCB that was doing a similar job.
Thanks, I've been asked in comments a few times. It was just a rough guess. It was a decoupling capacitor across the supply so the value wouldn't have been too critical. We can guess the supply would be under 5v, so we know the voltage and a value would be something like 0.01uF. I just pulled one off an old board that was doing the same job. Hope that helps.
Outstanding job. I was really hoping you'd find some data on the drive, like some missing Roswell alien autopsy footage, or maybe Rishi Sunak missing WhatsApp messages, or James Howells missing BitCoins...🤣🤣🤣
What a bargain Mick, absolutely amazing fix all that for a MLC, so many faults are caused by MLC’s, tv screens included they are so sensitive they can crack, I have had one short took it out and it measured fine, and when it had cooled down it was short again lol keep up the good work 😊
The CASE is designed to conform to the 2.5" drive specification. The actual PCB doesn't need to be anywhere near as big as the case itself, which is why people often feel short-changed by the mostly empty space! ... Think about how tiny M.2 SSDs are!
Nicely done! I have to say though, while this would be a fantastic result for data recovery purposes, I'm not convinced I'd want to actually use the repaired drive long-term... (PS: how did you choose the capacitance of the replacement cap? 🙂)
Thanks 👍Just a rough guess as it's only a decoupler, so something around 0.01uf or 0.1uf and it would only be a low voltage at around 3V. The HDD turned out to be brand new, and I guess caps can fail at any time so it should in theory be no worse than using a brand new drive.
How did you figure out the value of the shorted cap? I like the videos. I watch them on my phone and it helps alot when you use the microscope. I dont have to keep zooming and panning around to see what you are doing.
Thanks 👍I've answered this a few times in the comments, it was just a rough guess. It's a decoupling capacitor to reduce noise in the circuit. I just used a 0.01uf and around 6.3v should be fine as the cpu only runs on 3v or less. Hope that helps 👍
I'm sure someone has said this already, but you can try a Linux live iso, write to to a usb and boot from it and then run gparted which is a gui partitioning tool which will show you both Linux and Windows partitions. You can either use the Linux Mint live installer iso which can boot to a full gui OS off the usb drive or gparted has its own live edition as well. The latter will be smaller. Now off to have a look at my dead ssd from a few years ago to see if its a shorted cap on that!
Thanks, yes I've got a couple of ubuntu disks, I actually used it for a year or so a few years back when I was developing some Android stuff. Good luck with your drive 👍
Hi Mike could you explien how you use diode mode to measure for a short and how did you know what the capacitor value was of the one that you replaced. Really enjoyed the video!
Thanks John 👍 It's pretty much the same way as using it in continuity mode, I could have used that or even resistance. The capacitor I just took a rough guess. It's a decoupling capacitor to stop noise in the circuit. It would probably have even worked without replacing it. I just pulled one off another old board which was doing the same job. The voltage wouldn't be much so
@@BuyitFixit Doing well thanks Mick. Whenever you see a car video on my channel be sure that (including editing) at least 4 days has gone into it. So then I am playing catch up trying to get the videos people actually watch out on RUclips 😂. I have read your recent comments on the coil/inductor on the PS5, I still need to Google the difference between them!!!! Sorry I haven't replied as of yet, be sure that I do read them. Congrats on the recent views, I see your channel is growing very nicely. It is well deserved, personally I think you are the best all round fixer here on RUclips, your vast skillset is impressive. I hope your time is starting to be rewarded monetary wise 👍
Thanks Vince👍. Coil and inductor are pretty much the same thing, and inductor is a coil of wire after all. It's just the correct name for it when on a PCB. If you search on RS or such for inductors see what comes up. A coil would be like something on a car perhaps? (Which is really a transformer 😂😂). I know what you mean about playing catch up. I'm just editing a video for the weekend, I'm trying to get 1 or 2 ahead but it seems after I release one I'm fixing the next thing and time I get it done it's nearly the weekend again! I honestly don't know how you do it!A quick question, as I was thinking of upgrading my hot air rework station and was wondering what one you were using? Great to hear from you 👍
@@BuyitFixit Thanks Mick. I use the Quick 861DE. It can be VERY loud when cooling down so you have to give it a minute or 2 cool down before speaking again, sound s like an aeroplane taking off. Apart from that I really like it 😎
So many modern electronic devices are knocked out by a simple shorted capacitor. Oh and love the vids , so glad I happend on your channel, THANKS for the vids they keep me sane.
It's just a decoupling capacitor. The value wouldn't have been to critical and it would probably have worked without it. I just pulled one from an old board that was doing the same job.
Happen to me recently, bought a 1TB Crucial BX SSD for my 2012 Macbook Pro as a 2nd HDD, installed, copied old spinning 1TB contents over. Rebooted Mac so it could reconfigure, and it never did reboot, so many attempts, unplugged the new 1TB SSD and Mac booted, weird as my main SSD had the OSX installed. Once booted, I used a program called Drivedx, brand new 1TB SSD had instantly failed, sadly nothing I could fix myself or I would have, but I'm so glad you took a gamble on this and paid off, I love that feeling myself.
good thing that's a new BX, should still be under warranty then. oddly enough that happened to a crucial drive (that I know very reliable as well as snappy, used and resold countless of them) not endorsing the brand here but I'm a fanboy, only crucial for all personal use 😅
Thanks 👍Just a rough guess as it's just a decoupling capacitor. The voltage would be around 3v so anything rated above that, and a value would be around 0.01uf. I just pulled one from another board doing a similar job.
@@BuyitFixit yes I've got them too. EVO 850 and 860 but they have a fixed amount of their MLC space assigned as SLC so you can write fast but if your large file is larger than 60GB (I believe is the value) it slows down as the drive then has to start using MLC (and clearing out the SLC to the MLC). MX500 assign that SLC size variably so you don't notice a slowing down when copying large files onto it. This only works if you keep a part of the drive's space unused so it can use that as SLC
Nice fix, how did you decide the replacement CAP value? What model and resolution is your thermal camera module? I'm looking at getting one for Christmas.
Hi Dave, The cap was just a decoupling capacitor to stop noise / interference to the CPU. The voltage of the CPU would be under 3v, and a 0.01uf cap is commonly used, so that's pretty much what I went with. I just pulled one off an old PCB that was doing the same job. The thermal camera is 256×192 pixels, and 25 FPS. The FLIR one i have is only 80x60 and 12.5 FPS. I put some links in the video description to the camera and other tools such as the blue mat etc as I've had quite a few people asking about different tools etc that I use, or "what's that grinding pen thing you were using". Hope that helps!
Good fix, Mick. I knew you had it and that it was brand new when it came up un-allocated with the right number of gigabytes. I was about to ask you if you had the BX500 or the MX500, but I saw at the end that is was the MX500, which has on-board DRAM cache. I've installed many of these MX500 to speed up people' older machines, and it's like a brand new machine. They are about $50.00 in the states, so you did get a good deal.
@@BuyitFixit Pretty decent, I think. The odd shorted MLCC seems to be the most common failure mode. (Avoid the BX500 like the plague though.) The smaller versions like the 500 gig seem to be skimping on thermal pads these days, which is (literally) not cool. The MX500 is basically what I consider the minimum SATA SSD that you actually want. It doesn't quite have the performance or low idle power draw of a Samsung, but is still a decent drive with DRAM cache and TLC flash and a metal case for heat dissipation. BTW, if you have any Samsung SSD made from the end of 2020 to about mid-2021, it is likely to be in dire need of a firmware update to avert premature failure. 870 EVOs from 1 TB up seem to be commonly affected.
The BX series without cache are garbage if you do a lot of writes. It hogs system memory and acts like a shingled hard drive, slowing everything down! Cheap but not cheerful!
@@BuyitFixit Yes, the MX Series has been quite reliable for me. I've been running a few on my laptop and music production machine for about 3 years now. As folks have said, the BX should probably be avoided, since they don't have DRAM cache. From where I stand, of course the best would be Samsung, but if you want good performance at a slightly better price, you can go with Crucial. Crucial is also owned by Micron Technology as well, who makes a lot of the memory chips used many electronic devices today.
Just a guestimate. It's a decoupling capacitor as it's across the supply. I doubt the value is too critical and it would probably have even worked without it.
I don't use a laptop. My microscope connects to a TV and I record directly to the SD card that it takes. It does have a USB but I don't use it. The camera is a 48mp FHD V8. It's blue with 5 red buttons in the shape of a + sign. If you google 48MP fhd v8 you'll see pictures of it.
Congrats on the score and fix. Those small caps can fail sometimes. MX500 series are normally very reliable. I have many of them and only ever had one die (and that was due to a faulty PSU). In comparison, I had several Patriot SSDs die in a few months under heavier load.
I have 8 of the MX500 series and have yet to have a failure, in fact I just got another 1 TB for 46 USD not that I really needed it but at that price I figured why not
I agree, that one could be one of many that failed mfg. process and put aside for refurbishing but somehow "found a way out" even the cheaper BXs are equally sturdy, they just have less performance but in terms of reliability I have customers employing them in higher temperature environment so they're thermal throttle countless times but none ever fail. if PSU or whatever interface it has been plugged into caused the damage, owner must've got the drive RMAed already.
Well done. You can also use diskinternals to see whether it was Linux formatted (though appears blank, as you discovered). The wonders of small ceramic caps, easily damaged by spikes, vibration and heat, not that power supplies, pick-and-place and reflow would affect those anomalies. In the Electron God scheme of things, I suspect you are the Overseer. I am, of course, Xaragon.
Cool fix :) Didn't know the working time of a hard drive is recorded, my laptop hard drive might have pretty big number by now as it's approaching 11 years old and have been used pretty much every day :D
I've got a Kingston drive that just died. I kept the card and ditched the case ( into the recycling) with the plane of shredding the card to remove data. I think I'll have a quick check on the board and see if it's got a blown cap too.
Could well be the case, the capacitors on things like this are often a cause of failure. If you have a thermal camera you can see what gets hot, or if you have some IPA you could perhaps see what evaporates first when connected to power if you haven't got a thermal camera.
Well a rough guestimate would have been that the voltage would have been 3V or so at that point, even 1.8V or less. So I would have used something rated at a higher voltage than that and a capacitance of something like 0.01uF. I just pulled one from an old logic board that was doing the same job.
Just a rough guess. It's just a decoupling capacitor I just pulled one from an old board. But it would be something like 0.01uf. The voltage you can work out by either measuring as it's across the supply or again a rough guess. Seeing as it's across the supply going to the main controller it's probably going to have 3v or less across it. So something like a 6.3v 0.01uf should be fine.
Disk drill will show oddball partitions from windows . ( under the other tab ) . You can wipe stubborn drives with windows admin clean cmd , go look it up . ( It will zap even GPT partitions with bit-locker ) . Note the command can not be undone once executed .
How did you choose the cap ? just one that fit the previous one ? (I rarely touch surface mounted boards because I generally do not know what's to put to replace a faulty component, while they have no label or color code.... Old valve amps are better for this x) ) And thanks for sharing that !
Three more of them and that's the IR camera paid for. Nice one. Linux uses the same partitioning as Windows so that wouldn't show as unallocated, but Windows may think the allocated partitions are blank if the FS isn't recognised. Maybe if it was one stripe of a RAID array it would show as unallocated, I don't know if they have an MBR in the boot sector (or the modern UEFI equivalent)
Thanks 👍At the end of the video the software seems to show the device only had a few power ups and very little running hours, so I think it failed on power up after leaving the factory.
@BuyitFixit I also have the infiray. But what software do you use? I've tried different ones but one of them doesn't cope well with upright and horizontal positions. The other one is annoying with this eternal dog + moon animation. I would also like to be able to set min. and max. temp for the display and be able to compare things better without a dynamic scale.
The only failing SSD until now was a 256GB Crucial looking almost the same as this. But was around 10 years ago iirc. It died after 2 days and was undetectable. Sadly I had to return the drive for exchange but was not able to wipe it. That was before we all had full disc encryption.
The bad component wouldn't have had a capacitance as it was dead short. It was just a decoupling capacitor as it was across the supply. I just pulled one of another old board I had that was doing the same job. I don't think the value is critical and it would have probably just worked with it removed.
After checking S.M.A.R.T. maybe try a run in h2testw to check if all the flash chips actually work correctly. Seems to be a DOA drive to me as well and it might have never even been used at all. But better be safe then sorry!
Thanks 👍The cap was just a decoupling capacitor to stop noise / interference to the CPU. The voltage of the CPU would be 3v or under, and a 0.01uf cap is commonly used. So something like a 6.3v 0.01uF. I just pulled one off an old PCB that was doing the same job.
Great video, thanks. Question, how do you know what type of replacement capacitor to get? Are they unique to size? Didn't see any print on the old cap. Thanks
Just a rough guess. It was a decoupling capacitor across the supply to stop noise. It would be around 3v supply so I just pulled one from another board that was doing the same job. Probably around 0.1uf or 0.01uf.
I have one of these drives. Doesn't fill you with confidence! I bought it to replace the HDD on my ancient laptop which failed due to bring knocked or dropped.
I always keep backups of SSD's to spinning disks. SSD's can fail catastrophically. At least with HDD's you can read data off platters most of the time with donor boards and head ROM swaps. Once a NAND flash chip shorts, it's game over.
Hello, good job again, i ask me if is not a danger for the microprocesseur when you are using diode mode, this mode use more than 3,3 volts , the limit max supported by the cpu ? Thks
A friend of mine recommended it, I'm not sure if I've used it previously or not. I've used loads of tools and systems over the years so it's hard to remember 😂
I have only one question: How do you find the capacity of a blown SMD capacitor without a schematic diagram? Guessing by dimensions only or is there something else involved. I watched Northridge videos too, but he usually removes a shorted capacitor and connects to the drive just for data recovery, but since you've put another capacitor instead of the blown one, the question is how do you choose the capacitance?
Just a rough guess. It's just a decoupling capacitor I just pulled one from an old board. But it would be something like 0.01uf. The voltage you can work out by either measuring as it's across the supply or again a rough guess. Seeing as it's across the supply going to the main controller it's probably going to have 3v or less across it. So something like a 6.3v 0.01uf should be fine.
@@BuyitFixitThank you. I will try it out. We have asked local PC enthusiasts to give me their SSD drives which failed in manners other than locking themselves in read-only mode, and I already got two, so I'll try to use on them what I learned from you and Northridge.
What could be the issue if there are many caps shorted? I have the same drive, but with more NAND chips (older version I guess). The caps around each of the NAND chips seem to be shorted. Could this mean that something else entirely is causing this? Or is my drive just non-recoverable?
It is probably 1 cap that's shorted, but they are all linked in parallel hence them all measuring short. Thermal camera would show which is shorted, or you might get away with some isopropyl alcohol on the board, and apply power see where it evaporates first. You can also get a rosin flux vape type thing that would put a flux mist on the board and it would highlight where heat is coming from. Hope that helps.
I feel like Crucial has to be the most ironically named brands for their SSD’s. A business I worked for had decided to equip their office PC’s with them; around 8 months later, within a week, 39 of the 43 failed.
@@blockbertus I recently got my hands on an old server with these MX500 1TB drives. I started with 5 of them... 3 have failed, plugged into a USB adapter then into a car multimedia system to play music from. All other drives i've tried have (intel, samsung) have been fine in this scenario. One more failed just plugged into a PC -- it worked long enough to install pfsense, and start configuring it, but an hour later it could no longer be detected. So, given this experience, I don't really trust the MX500 line any more than the BX500.
It's not too critical as it's just a decoupling capacitor. It would have probably worked fine without it. I just pulled one off an old board I had lying around that was doing the same job.
In my experience caps are usually a common point of failure, often down to cheap (poor) manufacture and quality control. Not saying that's the case here, might just have been unlucky with that cap.
@@phillipbanes5484 True, and that's why you have quality control ....... However way too many devices fail due to dodgy caps and most of those devices are likely thrown in the trash. It wastes consumer money and it should also go without saying that more electronics waste is certainly bad for the environment. And all because of what? Some badly manufactured caps that cost an extremely tiny amount to manufacture. Of course many of the companies making the devices largely won't care, the devices are made cheaply and as they fail the customers buy more and more. Welcome to our grotesquely capitalist, hideously throwaway society.
Just a rough guess. It's just a decoupling capacitor I just pulled one from an old board. But it would be something like 0.01uf. The voltage you can work out by either measuring as it's across the supply or again a rough guess. Seeing as it's across the supply going to the main controller it's probably going to have 3v or less across it. So something like a 6.3v 0.01uf should be fine.
Just a rough guess. It's a decoupling cap across the supply, so it would be something around 0.1 - 0.01uF, and it would be across a 3V supply. The value wouldn't be too critical.
@@BuyitFixit dunno whether this would be possible while the drive is faulted, or not... there seems to be an 'management' interface on the PCB... i never was that interested in this matter - as i said, i only heard about it... BUT my 1st comment wasn't actually about that particular SSD, it was about the S.M.A.R.T. can't apparently be fully trusted...
@@Bl4ckSer4ph oh well, let's just think that one of the previous owners (let's assume more than 1 owners just to avoid putting sensitive context onto 1 particular party) had a negative intention of resetting the S.M.A.R.T. values - blanked the chips' content in order to put a brand new value to the drive but somehow coincidentally fate decided to say hi and implemented instant karma 🤣, then you know the rest of the story 😁
It's been a long time since I worked on electronic gear and have no experience with surface mount components. Are the caps marked with their value, or did you have the circuit diagram?
I just took a rough guestimate. It's just a decoupling capacitor. The voltage wouldn't have been very high (under 6.3v), and probably something like a 0.01uf.
Thanks for the reply. Good tips and great video. I've got the same 1 TB Crucial SSD that died on me last year, so might venture in. Looking forward to watching more of your vids.@@BuyitFixit
Thanks 👍it could well be a similar issue as those types of capacitor are a common failure point on lots of electronic equipment. If you don't have a thermal camera, putting IPA on the board or you can get a rosin flux vape type thing, will show what's heating up👍
Just a rough guess. It might have even worked fine without it. The cap was just a decoupling capacitor to stop noise / interference to the CPU. The voltage of the CPU would be 3v or under, and a 0.01uf cap is commonly used. So something like a 6.3v 0.01uF. I just pulled one off an old PCB that was doing the same job.
Just a rough guess. It's just a decoupling capacitor I just pulled one from an old board. But it would be something like 0.01uf. The voltage you can work out by either measuring as it's across the supply or again a rough guess. Seeing as it's across the supply going to the main controller it's probably going to have 3v or less across it. So something like a 6.3v 0.01uf should be fine.
It was just a rough guess. It's a decoupling capacitor across the supply. We know the chip runs around 3v and a normal value for a decoupling capacitor is around 0.1uf to 0.01uf, so I just pulled one off an old board doing the same job.
Windows Disk Manager will recognise Linux disk formats, and almost any other formats that exist. It's actually a very good tool for managing disks with. I use HxD for converting binary sprite and level data to C code when developing retro games. It's a very versatile tool.
@@BuyitFixit I mean in general when fixing any board. Is there a common database somewhere where one could look up for example "C123" for board "Xyz123"? For capacitors that stabilize the voltage it's easy: The bigger the better. But for other appliances like frequency generation the capacity must match exactly. For other cases like in coil systems too much capacity could damage many parts.
![Faulty ASUS Gaming Router [RT-AC86U] | Can I FIX It?](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pNDlRE5wuFY/mqdefault.jpg)
and 5 minutes after you published the video, all broken SSD on ebay increased the price by 3x ;-)
😂😂😂😂😂👍
Dammit lol
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 Good one.
😂😂😂 suddenly that old ssd that arrived broken, is now dug out and is going for repairs
not all ssd is easy to repair some times there is one or more memory is want to rebolling bga connection fail
Crystal Disk Info and Crystal Disk Mark are two great free utilities for SSD health status and performance. Well done on the fix Mick, nice work!
Thanks Marc 👍
I always use Crystal Disk Info and Hard Drive Sentinel (for continuous monitoring my hard drives)
HD Sentinel is a good one too, it does a lot more than CrystalDisk. It is paid for but really good as it sits in your tray giving realtime info of temperature and sector issues. It will email you as well if things deteriorate, so great for servers and systems left running! It also allows you to repair the disk with surface and sector scans to force SMART refresh! I've never looked back!
Crystal Disk Info also tells the operating hours, which most drives keep track on. That would tell if the drive was brand new.
The crucial executive utility I used at the end of the video (I think some people might have thought the end was when I was putting it back together) also tells you the hours, power cycles, health status and let's you upgrade the drive firmware (which I did a bit later). But thank you all for the alternative suggestions.
I can totaly appreciate you involving the softwares you use.....
Thanks 👍
I've used those drives for years now.. great little drives! :)
Thanks Kip, I've not used them before. I've only had Samsung SSDs
Another amazing repair. Just a quick tip for anyone wanting his model thermal camera. It is one of the very best for the cost out there. Make sure to look into the macro lens add on or kit as this gives you sharp detail for small components and board inspections. Most other cameras out there other than uni T may not have this option.
Thanks, yes it's a good camera although the only downside is that you also need a phone to use it. Ideally this arrangement in a stand alone device would be great.
I bought one of these also. I find the BIG advantage over a stand alone TC is that you can use a tablet with a BIG screen, or share the screen to a cast capable TV.
You also don't have the frame rate of 9 FPS limit that most other TC's have.
Superb. AND I am gonna try and find and give some use to the programs you were using for the disk information etc. very useful.
Thanks 👍
This fix has stayed with me, and I’m constantly thinking lucky git! Love this fix ❤
Thanks 👍🙂
sounds like you got a real bargain there that was an easy fix so well done
Thanks 👍
Nice find! Looks like these small caps are getting to be somewhat common failure points. Northridge Fix just did a video on a Samsung 860 Evo SSD with a shorted cap a few days ago.
Yes, totally agree. I've seen quite a few devices with the same problem.
MLCC's (multilayer ceramic chip capacitor) are notorious for causing shorts
I guess I'm not lucky at all. Never had any SSD in for repair with a blown capacitor. Only heavy faults. No shorted or blown capacitors.
Someone has already measured capacitors before, because the traces of the probes are visible. I think it was you but whatever. Nicely repaired.
Well observed. I think that was actually me. I had to re-record that part of the video due to forgetting to hit record on the microscope 🤦♂️
I see that you use a fluke 179. I love mine. I got it when i was doing industrial plant maintenance. Great choice.
Yes, I've got a couple of fluke meters. I've still got a 77 and a 73, but I thought I'd treat myself to a bit of an upgrade a few months back 👍
you guys,
rich boyz LoL
Fluke are category 3 meters. They dont explode if you connect them up wrong.
Very nice work, I do a lot of repairs, the only tool I need to purchase is a thermal camera.
Thank you 👍
Banging fix that ssds are normally impossible to fix well done
Thanks 😊👍
cristle disk info is a good one
Loved this. Appreciate it was some time ago - but how did you work out the value of the replacement capacitor - did I miss that part?
Thanks 👍Just a rough guess as it's only a decoupling capacitor to reduce noise on the supply. The supply we know is around 3V so anything higher would be fine for the voltage, and a typical value is around 0.01uf. I just pulled one from an old PCB that was doing a similar job.
@@BuyitFixit appreciate your taking the time to reply and the capacitor tip.
I just used Storage Executive a few days ago, it had been awhile... I forgot that those details about the drive are available Thanks
No problem. First time I've used it 🙂I normally use Samsung drives.
Could you please tell us what was the value of the shorted capacitor that was replaced.Thank you for the video, great one👍👌
Thanks, I've been asked in comments a few times. It was just a rough guess. It was a decoupling capacitor across the supply so the value wouldn't have been too critical. We can guess the supply would be under 5v, so we know the voltage and a value would be something like 0.01uF. I just pulled one off an old board that was doing the same job. Hope that helps.
Outstanding job. I was really hoping you'd find some data on the drive, like some missing Roswell alien autopsy footage, or maybe Rishi Sunak missing WhatsApp messages, or James Howells missing BitCoins...🤣🤣🤣
Thanks 👍yes I was hoping there might have been something interesting on it.
Lucky buy, found loads of short SMD caps in my time repairing laptops, nice quick fix :) I used alcohol to find mine.
Thanks Pete 👍
did you say alcohol?
so, you can't actually find them if not drunk?
🤭
Nice fix, I have loads of faulty SSD's, might have a look for dodgy caps. Thanks Mick 😀
Fingers crossed 🤞Thanks Mike 👍
What a bargain Mick, absolutely amazing fix all that for a MLC, so many faults are caused by MLC’s, tv screens included they are so sensitive they can crack, I have had one short took it out and it measured fine, and when it had cooled down it was short again lol keep up the good work 😊
Thanks Gary 👍
@@BuyitFixit you are very welcome Mick
WOW, blown away with what is not in the box 🙂Wonder how much we gat charged for the emptyness.
The CASE is designed to conform to the 2.5" drive specification. The actual PCB doesn't need to be anywhere near as big as the case itself, which is why people often feel short-changed by the mostly empty space! ... Think about how tiny M.2 SSDs are!
Or the physical size of a 512MB thumb drive (not sure if they make them as big as 1TB)
@@BuyitFixit I believe 1TB USB Flash Drives are available 🤔 if you can afford them! 😲
Quite an iconic and still expensive ssd too, good job
Thanks 👍🙂
Nicely done! I have to say though, while this would be a fantastic result for data recovery purposes, I'm not convinced I'd want to actually use the repaired drive long-term...
(PS: how did you choose the capacitance of the replacement cap? 🙂)
Thanks 👍Just a rough guess as it's only a decoupler, so something around 0.01uf or 0.1uf and it would only be a low voltage at around 3V. The HDD turned out to be brand new, and I guess caps can fail at any time so it should in theory be no worse than using a brand new drive.
How did you figure out the value of the shorted cap?
I like the videos. I watch them on my phone and it helps alot when you use the microscope. I dont have to keep zooming and panning around to see what you are doing.
Thanks 👍I've answered this a few times in the comments, it was just a rough guess. It's a decoupling capacitor to reduce noise in the circuit. I just used a 0.01uf and around 6.3v should be fine as the cpu only runs on 3v or less. Hope that helps 👍
Nice repair! I have a used Kingston SSD on the way from ebay I'm going to use for data backup. I hope it works well.
Fingers crossed👍
I'm sure someone has said this already, but you can try a Linux live iso, write to to a usb and boot from it and then run gparted which is a gui partitioning tool which will show you both Linux and Windows partitions. You can either use the Linux Mint live installer iso which can boot to a full gui OS off the usb drive or gparted has its own live edition as well. The latter will be smaller. Now off to have a look at my dead ssd from a few years ago to see if its a shorted cap on that!
Thanks, yes I've got a couple of ubuntu disks, I actually used it for a year or so a few years back when I was developing some Android stuff. Good luck with your drive 👍
Hi Mike could you explien how you use diode mode to measure for a short and how did you know what the capacitor value was of the one that you replaced. Really enjoyed the video!
Thanks John 👍 It's pretty much the same way as using it in continuity mode, I could have used that or even resistance.
The capacitor I just took a rough guess. It's a decoupling capacitor to stop noise in the circuit. It would probably have even worked without replacing it. I just pulled one off another old board which was doing the same job. The voltage wouldn't be much so
Nice fix, well done.
Thanks 👍
Very interesting Mick, especially discovering it was brand new 👍
Thanks Vince 👍I was just thinking about you! Guess you've just been busy lately. Hope you are doing ok 🙂
@@BuyitFixit Doing well thanks Mick. Whenever you see a car video on my channel be sure that (including editing) at least 4 days has gone into it. So then I am playing catch up trying to get the videos people actually watch out on RUclips 😂. I have read your recent comments on the coil/inductor on the PS5, I still need to Google the difference between them!!!! Sorry I haven't replied as of yet, be sure that I do read them. Congrats on the recent views, I see your channel is growing very nicely. It is well deserved, personally I think you are the best all round fixer here on RUclips, your vast skillset is impressive. I hope your time is starting to be rewarded monetary wise 👍
Thanks Vince👍. Coil and inductor are pretty much the same thing, and inductor is a coil of wire after all. It's just the correct name for it when on a PCB. If you search on RS or such for inductors see what comes up. A coil would be like something on a car perhaps? (Which is really a transformer 😂😂). I know what you mean about playing catch up. I'm just editing a video for the weekend, I'm trying to get 1 or 2 ahead but it seems after I release one I'm fixing the next thing and time I get it done it's nearly the weekend again! I honestly don't know how you do it!A quick question, as I was thinking of upgrading my hot air rework station and was wondering what one you were using? Great to hear from you 👍
@@BuyitFixit Thanks Mick. I use the Quick 861DE. It can be VERY loud when cooling down so you have to give it a minute or 2 cool down before speaking again, sound s like an aeroplane taking off. Apart from that I really like it 😎
@@Mymatevince Thanks mate👍yes I did also think it sounded like a jet engine 😂😂😂😂
You took the risk and this time it paid off.
Yes 🙂 It could have easily been the drive controller chip or one of the flash chips 👍
So many modern electronic devices are knocked out by a simple shorted capacitor. Oh and love the vids , so glad I happend on your channel, THANKS for the vids they keep me sane.
I watched the video but couldnt understand that much.. is that capacitor burnt or it deglued itself from the board? He just resoldered it?
Thanks 👍Much appreciated 🙂
@@subgivtaraThe capasitor was damaged and shorted the power line. Had to be replaced
@@Frank-Thoresen where did he get another one?
It's just a decoupling capacitor. The value wouldn't have been to critical and it would probably have worked without it. I just pulled one from an old board that was doing the same job.
Happen to me recently, bought a 1TB Crucial BX SSD for my 2012 Macbook Pro as a 2nd HDD, installed, copied old spinning 1TB contents over.
Rebooted Mac so it could reconfigure, and it never did reboot, so many attempts, unplugged the new 1TB SSD and Mac booted, weird as my main SSD had the OSX installed. Once booted, I used a program called Drivedx, brand new 1TB SSD had instantly failed, sadly nothing I could fix myself or I would have, but I'm so glad you took a gamble on this and paid off, I love that feeling myself.
Thanks 👍Yes, but it could also have went the other way if it was the main IC for instance that had failed. Thanks for commenting 🙂
good thing that's a new BX, should still be under warranty then.
oddly enough that happened to a crucial drive (that I know very reliable as well as snappy, used and resold countless of them)
not endorsing the brand here but I'm a fanboy, only crucial for all personal use 😅
@@puckchew Yeahh got a refund :) was offered a replacement but was a little unsure at the time.
Brilliant fix, How do you know what size capacitor the blown one was to replace?
Thanks 👍Just a rough guess as it's just a decoupling capacitor. The voltage would be around 3v so anything rated above that, and a value would be around 0.01uf. I just pulled one from another board doing a similar job.
@@BuyitFixit tks heaps. Really handy to know this kinda stuff. So much that can be repaired with a bit of knowledge👍👍
I have three MX500's. I like them very much
Cool, I've not had one before. I normally use Samsung SSDs
@@BuyitFixit yes I've got them too. EVO 850 and 860 but they have a fixed amount of their MLC space assigned as SLC so you can write fast but if your large file is larger than 60GB (I believe is the value) it slows down as the drive then has to start using MLC (and clearing out the SLC to the MLC). MX500 assign that SLC size variably so you don't notice a slowing down when copying large files onto it. This only works if you keep a part of the drive's space unused so it can use that as SLC
Nice fix, how did you decide the replacement CAP value?
What model and resolution is your thermal camera module?
I'm looking at getting one for Christmas.
Hi Dave,
The cap was just a decoupling capacitor to stop noise / interference to the CPU. The voltage of the CPU would be under 3v, and a 0.01uf cap is commonly used, so that's pretty much what I went with. I just pulled one off an old PCB that was doing the same job. The thermal camera is 256×192 pixels, and 25 FPS. The FLIR one i have is only 80x60 and 12.5 FPS. I put some links in the video description to the camera and other tools such as the blue mat etc as I've had quite a few people asking about different tools etc that I use, or "what's that grinding pen thing you were using". Hope that helps!
Good fix, Mick. I knew you had it and that it was brand new when it came up un-allocated with the right number of gigabytes. I was about to ask you if you had the BX500 or the MX500, but I saw at the end that is was the MX500, which has on-board DRAM cache. I've installed many of these MX500 to speed up people' older machines, and it's like a brand new machine. They are about $50.00 in the states, so you did get a good deal.
Thanks Michael. I've never used them before as I've always used Samsung drives. What are they like for reliability?
@@BuyitFixit Pretty decent, I think. The odd shorted MLCC seems to be the most common failure mode. (Avoid the BX500 like the plague though.) The smaller versions like the 500 gig seem to be skimping on thermal pads these days, which is (literally) not cool.
The MX500 is basically what I consider the minimum SATA SSD that you actually want. It doesn't quite have the performance or low idle power draw of a Samsung, but is still a decent drive with DRAM cache and TLC flash and a metal case for heat dissipation.
BTW, if you have any Samsung SSD made from the end of 2020 to about mid-2021, it is likely to be in dire need of a firmware update to avert premature failure. 870 EVOs from 1 TB up seem to be commonly affected.
The BX series without cache are garbage if you do a lot of writes. It hogs system memory and acts like a shingled hard drive, slowing everything down! Cheap but not cheerful!
@@BuyitFixit Yes, the MX Series has been quite reliable for me. I've been running a few on my laptop and music production machine for about 3 years now. As folks have said, the BX should probably be avoided, since they don't have DRAM cache. From where I stand, of course the best would be Samsung, but if you want good performance at a slightly better price, you can go with Crucial. Crucial is also owned by Micron Technology as well, who makes a lot of the memory chips used many electronic devices today.
Amazing result man !
Thanks 👍🙂
How do you know what capacitor to replace with? 🤔
Just a guestimate. It's a decoupling capacitor as it's across the supply. I doubt the value is too critical and it would probably have even worked without it.
Very important to be able to do this now
Indeed 👍
Sound job at that price I would trust it as well like you say it’s brand new 👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks 👍
I wish that I could fix things like you do and then I would save allot of money. Nice fix
Thanks 👍
Love watching your work.
I've just got microscope
But can t get a picture on lapto can you show how you're is Set up please ?
I don't use a laptop. My microscope connects to a TV and I record directly to the SD card that it takes. It does have a USB but I don't use it. The camera is a 48mp FHD V8. It's blue with 5 red buttons in the shape of a + sign. If you google 48MP fhd v8 you'll see pictures of it.
@@BuyitFixit ah ok. I’ll keep playing till get sorted.
Nice work! How do you decide what capacitance is needed?
Thanks Jonas 👍It was just a decoupling capacitor. It would be around 3V and a value of around 0.01uf would probably do.
Brilliant video, great diagnosis & fix.
Thanks Michael 👍
Congrats on the score and fix. Those small caps can fail sometimes.
MX500 series are normally very reliable. I have many of them and only ever had one die (and that was due to a faulty PSU). In comparison, I had several Patriot SSDs die in a few months under heavier load.
Thanks 👍and also thanks for the info 🙂
I have 8 of the MX500 series and have yet to have a failure, in fact I just got another 1 TB for 46 USD not that I really needed it but at that price I figured why not
Nice 👍Thanks for letting me know 🙂
I agree, that one could be one of many that failed mfg. process and put aside for refurbishing but somehow "found a way out"
even the cheaper BXs are equally sturdy, they just have less performance but in terms of reliability I have customers employing them in higher temperature environment so they're thermal throttle countless times but none ever fail.
if PSU or whatever interface it has been plugged into caused the damage, owner must've got the drive RMAed already.
Thanks for the video. Great job.
Thanks for watching!👍
nice fix! I still have a mx300 2050GB. I got very cheap! on sale at the time (16.05.2018) for only 274€ :) where Half price :) :)
Thanks 👍nice 👍
Great channel 👍 keep it going
Thank you! 👍
Well done. You can also use diskinternals to see whether it was Linux formatted (though appears blank, as you discovered). The wonders of small ceramic caps, easily damaged by spikes, vibration and heat, not that power supplies, pick-and-place and reflow would affect those anomalies. In the Electron God scheme of things, I suspect you are the Overseer. I am, of course, Xaragon.
Thanks Ralph 👍😂😂😂😂
That 77C highest lifetime temp looks interesting!
Yes I think that would have been just before the capactitor shorted 👍
How did you know the value of the capacitor?
Just took a rough guess. It's only a decoupling capacitor as it's across the supply voltage.
Nice quick one.
Yes 👍
Cool fix :) Didn't know the working time of a hard drive is recorded, my laptop hard drive might have pretty big number by now as it's approaching 11 years old and have been used pretty much every day :D
Thanks 👍yes I think most hard drives record it.
I've got a Kingston drive that just died. I kept the card and ditched the case ( into the recycling) with the plane of shredding the card to remove data. I think I'll have a quick check on the board and see if it's got a blown cap too.
Could well be the case, the capacitors on things like this are often a cause of failure. If you have a thermal camera you can see what gets hot, or if you have some IPA you could perhaps see what evaporates first when connected to power if you haven't got a thermal camera.
@@BuyitFixit I have both a thermal camera, IPA and (very old school) freezer spray. All I need now is the time to sit down and do the job 😜
Alright. But how did you determine the value of the capacitor to replace it?
Just a guess, it's just a decoupling capacitor as it's across the supply. It would probably have worked without it.
Nice fix, What was the actual capacity value and voltage of the cap used? What are the best capacitors to use? Thanks in advance? 👍
Well a rough guestimate would have been that the voltage would have been 3V or so at that point, even 1.8V or less. So I would have used something rated at a higher voltage than that and a capacitance of something like 0.01uF. I just pulled one from an old logic board that was doing the same job.
Nice job. However, what were the values of the capacitor you replaced? How did you determine what was needed?
Just a rough guess. It's just a decoupling capacitor I just pulled one from an old board. But it would be something like 0.01uf. The voltage you can work out by either measuring as it's across the supply or again a rough guess. Seeing as it's across the supply going to the main controller it's probably going to have 3v or less across it. So something like a 6.3v 0.01uf should be fine.
Disk drill will show oddball partitions from windows .
( under the other tab ) .
You can wipe stubborn drives with windows admin clean cmd , go look it up .
( It will zap even GPT partitions with bit-locker ) .
Note the command can not be undone once executed .
I've used diskpart.. select disk x ... clean.. to clean partitions before 😉
How did you choose the cap ? just one that fit the previous one ? (I rarely touch surface mounted boards because I generally do not know what's to put to replace a faulty component, while they have no label or color code.... Old valve amps are better for this x) )
And thanks for sharing that !
Just a guess as it's just a decoupling capacitor across the supply to the main IC. So it would only be around 3v and a 0.01uf would be fine.
@@BuyitFixit so "use your brain" x) it's ok ! Thanks !
Three more of them and that's the IR camera paid for. Nice one. Linux uses the same partitioning as Windows so that wouldn't show as unallocated, but Windows may think the allocated partitions are blank if the FS isn't recognised. Maybe if it was one stripe of a RAID array it would show as unallocated, I don't know if they have an MBR in the boot sector (or the modern UEFI equivalent)
Thanks 👍At the end of the video the software seems to show the device only had a few power ups and very little running hours, so I think it failed on power up after leaving the factory.
@BuyitFixit I also have the infiray. But what software do you use? I've tried different ones but one of them doesn't cope well with upright and horizontal positions. The other one is annoying with this eternal dog + moon animation.
I would also like to be able to set min. and max. temp for the display and be able to compare things better without a dynamic scale.
I'm just using the P2Pro software. Not sure about the dog and moon? Never seen that.
❤👍🏻Nice shot , smart Fixing🎉
Thanks 👍
The only failing SSD until now was a 256GB Crucial looking almost the same as this. But was around 10 years ago iirc. It died after 2 days and was undetectable. Sadly I had to return the drive for exchange but was not able to wipe it. That was before we all had full disc encryption.
Makes me wonder if it was the same problem...
@@BuyitFixit it was long before I was watching repair videos and to be hondest: If I had tried to fix it, I had lost the warranty.
How did you know what value the replacement capacitor should be?
Just a guess. It's not too critical as it's just a decoupling capacitor and it might just have worked fine with it removed.
It's important that you update the firmware on these mx 500 ssd's to the latest. The old firmware has a bug that can lead to data loss.
Thanks, I already did after making the video. Thanks for letting me know 👍
Heard that too.
Did you measure the capacitance of the bad component or did you guess? How do I figure out what to replace an unmarked bad cap?
The bad component wouldn't have had a capacitance as it was dead short. It was just a decoupling capacitor as it was across the supply. I just pulled one of another old board I had that was doing the same job. I don't think the value is critical and it would have probably just worked with it removed.
After checking S.M.A.R.T. maybe try a run in h2testw to check if all the flash chips actually work correctly. Seems to be a DOA drive to me as well and it might have never even been used at all. But better be safe then sorry!
Thanks for the suggestion 🙂👍
Congrats! How do you figure out the value for replacement cap? Thanks
Thanks 👍The cap was just a decoupling capacitor to stop noise / interference to the CPU. The voltage of the CPU would be 3v or under, and a 0.01uf cap is commonly used. So something like a 6.3v 0.01uF. I just pulled one off an old PCB that was doing the same job.
Great video, thanks. Question, how do you know what type of replacement capacitor to get? Are they unique to size? Didn't see any print on the old cap. Thanks
Just a rough guess. It was a decoupling capacitor across the supply to stop noise. It would be around 3v supply so I just pulled one from another board that was doing the same job. Probably around 0.1uf or 0.01uf.
I have one of these drives. Doesn't fill you with confidence! I bought it to replace the HDD on my ancient laptop which failed due to bring knocked or dropped.
This type of failure happens a lot on electronics. I've seen lots of different devices fail the same way.
I always keep backups of SSD's to spinning disks. SSD's can fail catastrophically. At least with HDD's you can read data off platters most of the time with donor boards and head ROM swaps. Once a NAND flash chip shorts, it's game over.
Hello, good job again, i ask me if is not a danger for the microprocesseur when you are using diode mode, this mode use more than 3,3 volts , the limit max supported by the cpu ? Thks
Possibly, although it didn't seem to affect it in this case.
Nice eBay find & "easy" fix.
Thanks 👍
Test Disk can be a bit daunting for a newbie, but if you know what your doing, it's the BEST! And it's FREE. I've used it for 14 years.
A friend of mine recommended it, I'm not sure if I've used it previously or not. I've used loads of tools and systems over the years so it's hard to remember 😂
HWinfo or HWinfo64 shows the run hours and wear and tear if any. Highest temperature 77ºC ? None of mine have exceeded 31ºC
I guess the 77c happened when the cap heated up and then shorted.
I have only one question: How do you find the capacity of a blown SMD capacitor without a schematic diagram? Guessing by dimensions only or is there something else involved. I watched Northridge videos too, but he usually removes a shorted capacitor and connects to the drive just for data recovery, but since you've put another capacitor instead of the blown one, the question is how do you choose the capacitance?
Just a rough guess. It's just a decoupling capacitor I just pulled one from an old board. But it would be something like 0.01uf. The voltage you can work out by either measuring as it's across the supply or again a rough guess. Seeing as it's across the supply going to the main controller it's probably going to have 3v or less across it. So something like a 6.3v 0.01uf should be fine.
@@BuyitFixitThank you. I will try it out. We have asked local PC enthusiasts to give me their SSD drives which failed in manners other than locking themselves in read-only mode, and I already got two, so I'll try to use on them what I learned from you and Northridge.
Good luck, let me know how you get on 👍
Fantastic , I like your videos mate
Many thanks!
Nice work.
Thanks!👍
What could be the issue if there are many caps shorted? I have the same drive, but with more NAND chips (older version I guess). The caps around each of the NAND chips seem to be shorted. Could this mean that something else entirely is causing this? Or is my drive just non-recoverable?
It is probably 1 cap that's shorted, but they are all linked in parallel hence them all measuring short. Thermal camera would show which is shorted, or you might get away with some isopropyl alcohol on the board, and apply power see where it evaporates first. You can also get a rosin flux vape type thing that would put a flux mist on the board and it would highlight where heat is coming from. Hope that helps.
@@BuyitFixit Thanks for the response. I was considering getting a thermal camera; this seals the deal.
I feel like Crucial has to be the most ironically named brands for their SSD’s. A business I worked for had decided to equip their office PC’s with them; around 8 months later, within a week, 39 of the 43 failed.
Wow that's not good. Thanks for sharing 👍
MX500 or BX500 variant? The BX500 one is pure rubbish but I do not have any problems with all the MX500 I installed.
@@blockbertus I recently got my hands on an old server with these MX500 1TB drives. I started with 5 of them... 3 have failed, plugged into a USB adapter then into a car multimedia system to play music from. All other drives i've tried have (intel, samsung) have been fine in this scenario. One more failed just plugged into a PC -- it worked long enough to install pfsense, and start configuring it, but an hour later it could no longer be detected. So, given this experience, I don't really trust the MX500 line any more than the BX500.
Smart (like hdd sentinel, I use it on most systems) with low uptime or low start count would be new
Yes, seems like it failed straight from the factory 👍
Simple issue 1 capasitor ?
Yes 👍
Where do you get the capacitors?
I just pulled it off an old board I had lying around. It's just a decoupling capacitor, and would probably have worked without it.
How do you know what value have this capacitor?
It's not too critical as it's just a decoupling capacitor. It would have probably worked fine without it. I just pulled one off an old board I had lying around that was doing the same job.
Wow! How does such a capacitor fail? Is it poorly sourced materials?
In my experience caps are usually a common point of failure, often down to cheap (poor) manufacture and quality control. Not saying that's the case here, might just have been unlucky with that cap.
Agree. I've seen lots of devices fail due to capacitors going short circuit.
@@phillipbanes5484 True, and that's why you have quality control ....... However way too many devices fail due to dodgy caps and most of those devices are likely thrown in the trash. It wastes consumer money and it should also go without saying that more electronics waste is certainly bad for the environment. And all because of what? Some badly manufactured caps that cost an extremely tiny amount to manufacture. Of course many of the companies making the devices largely won't care, the devices are made cheaply and as they fail the customers buy more and more. Welcome to our grotesquely capitalist, hideously throwaway society.
Great Fix well done
Thanks 👍
How did you know what capacitor you would need to put back on the board?
Just a rough guess. It's just a decoupling capacitor I just pulled one from an old board. But it would be something like 0.01uf. The voltage you can work out by either measuring as it's across the supply or again a rough guess. Seeing as it's across the supply going to the main controller it's probably going to have 3v or less across it. So something like a 6.3v 0.01uf should be fine.
For USB to SATA devices, StarTech adapters are the most reliable!
Thanks for that 👍The one I was using I've had for a while, I think it was just a generic one I bought from Amazon.
Well done,thanks.
Cheers 👍
how did you determine what capacitor you needed ?
Just a rough guess. It's a decoupling cap across the supply, so it would be something around 0.1 - 0.01uF, and it would be across a 3V supply. The value wouldn't be too critical.
@BuyitFixit sadly, it does not confirm that the SSD is brand new... as i heard, one can reset the S.M.A.R.T. values...
Interesting, although if the drive failed while in use, I'm not sure how they could be reset.
@@BuyitFixit dunno whether this would be possible while the drive is faulted, or not... there seems to be an 'management' interface on the PCB... i never was that interested in this matter - as i said, i only heard about it...
BUT my 1st comment wasn't actually about that particular SSD, it was about the S.M.A.R.T. can't apparently be fully trusted...
@@Bl4ckSer4ph
oh well, let's just think that one of the previous owners (let's assume more than 1 owners just to avoid putting sensitive context onto 1 particular party) had a negative intention of resetting the S.M.A.R.T. values - blanked the chips' content in order to put a brand new value to the drive but somehow coincidentally fate decided to say hi and implemented instant karma 🤣, then you know the rest of the story 😁
It's been a long time since I worked on electronic gear and have no experience with surface mount components. Are the caps marked with their value, or did you have the circuit diagram?
I just took a rough guestimate. It's just a decoupling capacitor. The voltage wouldn't have been very high (under 6.3v), and probably something like a 0.01uf.
Thanks for the reply. Good tips and great video. I've got the same 1 TB Crucial SSD that died on me last year, so might venture in. Looking forward to watching more of your vids.@@BuyitFixit
Thanks 👍it could well be a similar issue as those types of capacitor are a common failure point on lots of electronic equipment. If you don't have a thermal camera, putting IPA on the board or you can get a rosin flux vape type thing, will show what's heating up👍
Thanks for the great tips. I'm glad I didn't destroy it and throw it out now. It has personal data on so didn't want to sell it.@@BuyitFixit
I got a 1T from Temu worked flawless for a year then it slew down Win10 won't boot but can access files thru a USB adaptor
Sounds like they used inferior / used or rejected flash chips, which could explain that it failed with the constant read / writes of the O/S.
hi there is crystal disk that is fee this tell you the info you need great for used drives
show you what is bad on the drive use it all the time bob
Thanks for the info Bob 👍
How did you know what value capacitor to use?
Just a rough guess. It might have even worked fine without it. The cap was just a decoupling capacitor to stop noise / interference to the CPU. The voltage of the CPU would be 3v or under, and a 0.01uf cap is commonly used. So something like a 6.3v 0.01uF. I just pulled one off an old PCB that was doing the same job.
14:20 might be formatted as an Apple ADFS drive as they don’t show up in Windows. EDIT - agreed, just have been a return
Thanks Chris 👍🙂
How did you find out the value of the cap?
Just a rough guess. It's just a decoupling capacitor I just pulled one from an old board. But it would be something like 0.01uf. The voltage you can work out by either measuring as it's across the supply or again a rough guess. Seeing as it's across the supply going to the main controller it's probably going to have 3v or less across it. So something like a 6.3v 0.01uf should be fine.
Is it worth the time effort n repair-cost to repair sata ssd instead of buying new one in the era of nvme ssd?
That depends, hopefully this video is useful to someone who perhaps might have important data on such a drive...
May I ask how you determined what size capacitor you used for a replacement?
It was just a rough guess. It's a decoupling capacitor across the supply. We know the chip runs around 3v and a normal value for a decoupling capacitor is around 0.1uf to 0.01uf, so I just pulled one off an old board doing the same job.
Windows Disk Manager will recognise Linux disk formats, and almost any other formats that exist. It's actually a very good tool for managing disks with.
I use HxD for converting binary sprite and level data to C code when developing retro games. It's a very versatile tool.
Thanks for the info 👍
How do you know the microfarad value of the capacitor to replace?
Rough guess. It's a decoupling capacitor so the voltage would be around 3v to the microcontroller and a value of around 0.01uF 🙂
@@BuyitFixit I mean in general when fixing any board. Is there a common database somewhere where one could look up for example "C123" for board "Xyz123"? For capacitors that stabilize the voltage it's easy: The bigger the better. But for other appliances like frequency generation the capacity must match exactly. For other cases like in coil systems too much capacity could damage many parts.
@hansregli8678 unfortunately no such database exists that I know of.