Great info and testing "B". I gotta try water cooling my motor wires on my Sonicwake. I use silver core solder which prevents the motor wires from unsoldering, but the wires still get hot enough to melt the heat shrink when I run it WOT for several minutes. My boat is set up with an OSE 150 ESC, Leopard 1900 KV motor, 100c batteries with XT150 connectors and a 4514 CNC prop, which I consider to be a mild setup. I also upgraded the motor bullet connectors from 6mm to 6.5mm. The hot motor wire issues go away when running a 44 mm prop but then the boat will barely break 50 MPH. I rarely have this issue with any of my other boats, which has me scratching my head. Oh well, thanks for the info - really helpful!
I love this boat, it can be as simple or complicated as you want. You can just punish it on 4s out the box or melt your brain trying to get a top speed out of it lol.
I love the video but not the tight bends in the wires Tight 180 degree turns creates more heat than smooth turns. I love the content your videos are always the best on the internet. THANK YOU for your videos Big B
RC boaters ponder a lot don’t we 🤣😂🤪🤣 Another informative and entertaining video!!! Brushless motors of similar kv’s but of the same weight will perform nearly the same. It’s so hard to tell what your getting due to lack of specs listed by most manufacturers. Thanks for all the test videos.
Rc boaters ponder a lot don’t we 😂🤪🤣. Another informative and entertaining video!!! Brushless motors of different kvs but weigh the same will perform very “similarly” to each other. outrunners, inrunners, long skinny cans, short fat cans it doesn’t matter. I think what we want is a motor with a high wattage rating while being not to heavy for the hull ride pad area. Quality batteries definitely make a difference too. Thanks again Big be
great video brother, this is going to sound silly, but what i did on my stealthwake is put one of those cheap fans that you plug into your cell phone with a small power bank and used Velcro and it actually helps on the temps, it just puts airflow through the hull,i know it sounds weird, but it helps my boat anyway, take care
This is such a valuable video Big B. You're so right... getting the UL-19 running right is a real challenge and I'm still tinkering a lot with mine. 🙄 I know you're not a fan, but using dielectric grease on all of your connections will not only help keep the connections clean, but improve current flow through the connections. I use it on battery/ESC/motor connections all the time. 😉 And glad to see you got some use front that cooling jacket bro 👍😆
Also me I love change motor for any test. I like research different brands if possible at low prices. About it I like 3650 3500kv Gartt inrunner bl, very similar to Hobbystar. Thanks man for another great important video. Stay fast man from Italy
Hi Big-B , Always try & bend over the ends of your wires so that the connector is full of copper before you solder may help , Its surprising they dont make connectors with mechanical clamping.
make sure they are clean and tight if they are not they will create heat if you have to bend the connecter spring to make it tighter do so it will make a world of difference as any loose connection or corroded will create heat and melt solder also they do make a high temp solder that would help also
Could you clean the old conecter or is better to just change them .any way peace from michigan side note, my daughter lives in North Carolina I used to live in lincolnton anyway it would be cool if we could hook up and race at the pond.
I've tried to clean old connectors in the past with out success. I think 90% of the connectors are plated? Not sure? That would be awesome brother hit me up when your in the area
Strut on my boat is flat on the board. As far as solder, are you going to use silver solder? I have been using Kester leaded solder. I read silver withstood higher Temps? I have no experience using that. Love the video's, keep em coming Big B.
That's all I use as well common electronics solder, never had a problem with my solder joints in the past, but for some reason in this boat, almost every run desoldering joints
Hey B, I was thinking of trying a Traxxas 540XL 2400kv in my V1 Sonicwake on 4S. What would you recommend for a prop size for decent speed/run time. Or would you just keep the stock 1900kv on 4S and get a different prop? Trying to get A middle ground on speed and run time for my son&wife to have some fun.
Hey man, I been learning a lot watching ur boat videos, I was wondering if you’ve had problem with steering, I changed the steering rod on mine. I ended up using part of a cable from an old bike…it actually ended up working perfectly lol have you had to improvise anything?
The heat is due to resistance in the wires. Can you replace the wire with the next gauge thicker as well larger battery connectors? That should help bro! Boat Gang
So the 1700kv has a slower top Rpm at the same volts but could handle a bigger prop & create less heat? The 2000kv spins at a higher rpm at the same volts but intern creates more heat? So a 1700kv has more Tq at slightly less rpm & the 2000kv has less tq but more Hp & a higher rpm limit. Am i correctly thinking these terms? I just bought a 4082 1700kv for my Spartan wondering now if its actually a upgrade from the 540xl, i assume it may spin less rpm but could handle the bigger props
@IRONCLADRC thanks Big B! I think your channel is beginning to blow up! I just bought a used Recoil 2 from one of your subscribers & I bought it from him bc of your videos on the boat. Funny how it made full circle to 2 of your viewers bcnof your videos! Keep um coming!
Have a question about the cooling tubes running from the esc...I have a vector sr80-pro boat and the exit tube from the esc (stock esc) runs all the way out the back of the boat... it works fine ...just saw alot of your boats have it running outa the side really close to the exit tube of the esc...does that get the water in and out of the esc faster than running that long tube to the back???🤔 and is it better for the esc to keep it cooler...🤔 thanks👍
Hey bro I think I would try to put that 2000 KV motor back in it on 6s of course put your 8 mm bullets on it and then see what happens I think that's your weak link is just your bullet connectors. Because that's 1700 KV it just don't have the pep like the 2000 did. You know how we are if you can't beat on it hard or take it to bed it ain't worth having
Answer for Question on 09:38 min Specification for =/SSS 4074/2000KV marine motor RC/= 1.Motor Winding: 2Y 2.Diameter/Length: 40/74 mm/mm 3.Max Amps: 132 A 4. Max Voltage: 26 V 5. Max Power: 3500 W 6. No-load current: 2.9 A 7. Max RPM: 55,000 /55K 8. Shaft (fi): 5 mm 9. Weight: 380 g 10. Poles: 4P
The balance lead from the battery could be dirty/corroded. Use a stiff wire, stick in each balance lead hole on battery one at a time! Move the wire around in the balance lead holes knocking the dirt & corrosion off
![Jack Harlow - Hello Miss Johnson [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q86_nlRoIGw/mqdefault.jpg)
Great info and testing "B". I gotta try water cooling my motor wires on my Sonicwake. I use silver core solder which prevents the motor wires from unsoldering, but the wires still get hot enough to melt the heat shrink when I run it WOT for several minutes. My boat is set up with an OSE 150 ESC, Leopard 1900 KV motor, 100c batteries with XT150 connectors and a 4514 CNC prop, which I consider to be a mild setup. I also upgraded the motor bullet connectors from 6mm to 6.5mm. The hot motor wire issues go away when running a 44 mm prop but then the boat will barely break 50 MPH. I rarely have this issue with any of my other boats, which has me scratching my head. Oh well, thanks for the info - really helpful!
I love this boat, it can be as simple or complicated as you want. You can just punish it on 4s out the box or melt your brain trying to get a top speed out of it lol.
Lol I agree. I'm gonna whoop this Dern boat if it's the last thing I do.
I love the video but not the tight bends in the wires Tight 180 degree turns creates more heat than smooth turns. I love the content your videos are always the best on the internet. THANK YOU for your videos Big B
RC boaters ponder a lot don’t we 🤣😂🤪🤣
Another informative and entertaining video!!!
Brushless motors of similar kv’s but of the same weight will perform nearly the same. It’s so hard to tell what your getting due to lack of specs listed by most manufacturers. Thanks for all the test videos.
Rc boaters ponder a lot don’t we 😂🤪🤣.
Another informative and entertaining video!!!
Brushless motors of different kvs but weigh the same will perform very “similarly” to each other. outrunners, inrunners, long skinny cans, short fat cans it doesn’t matter. I think what we want is a motor with a high wattage rating while being not to heavy for the hull ride pad area. Quality batteries definitely make a difference too. Thanks again Big be
The test is for my own personal gain, hopefully it helps someone out there. Idk?
great video brother, this is going to sound silly, but what i did on my stealthwake is put one of those cheap fans that you plug into your cell phone with a small power bank and used Velcro and it actually helps on the temps, it just puts airflow through the hull,i know it sounds weird, but it helps my boat anyway, take care
I've seen alot of guys use cooling fans on there rc boat set up. Thanks I
💯 Boatgang 🔥 ✌💯🙏
This is such a valuable video Big B. You're so right... getting the UL-19 running right is a real challenge and I'm still tinkering a lot with mine. 🙄
I know you're not a fan, but using dielectric grease on all of your connections will not only help keep the connections clean, but improve current flow through the connections. I use it on battery/ESC/motor connections all the time. 😉
And glad to see you got some use front that cooling jacket bro 👍😆
I went to tick up a can of dielectric grease yesterday both places were out of stock. Grrrr. Hopefully I can find some today
@@IRONCLADRC You're the Man brother 👍
Also me I love change motor for any test. I like research different brands if possible at low prices. About it I like 3650 3500kv Gartt inrunner bl, very similar to Hobbystar. Thanks man for another great important video. Stay fast man from Italy
Hi Big-B , Always try & bend over the ends of your wires so that the connector is full of copper before you solder may help , Its surprising they dont make connectors with mechanical clamping.
Thanks for the tip
make sure they are clean and tight if they are not they will create heat if you have to bend the connecter spring to make it tighter do so it will make a world of difference as any loose connection or corroded will create heat and melt solder also they do make a high temp solder that would help also
Thanks for the tip 👍
Rc Juice is da bomb. I run a 4074 1700kv in my bj29v3. A 4074 2250kv in my mtc vietnam jaguar and a 4082 1900kv in my tfl cheetah and they kick ass
For the price you can't beat hobbystar
Could you clean the old conecter or is better to just change them .any way peace from michigan side note, my daughter lives in North Carolina I used to live in lincolnton anyway it would be cool if we could hook up and race at the pond.
I've tried to clean old connectors in the past with out success. I think 90% of the connectors are plated? Not sure?
That would be awesome brother hit me up when your in the area
Strut on my boat is flat on the board.
As far as solder, are you going to use silver solder?
I have been using Kester leaded solder.
I read silver withstood higher Temps?
I have no experience using that.
Love the video's, keep em coming Big B.
That's all I use as well common electronics solder, never had a problem with my solder joints in the past, but for some reason in this boat, almost every run desoldering joints
@@IRONCLADRC hot, hot, and hotter.
Hey B, I was thinking of trying a Traxxas 540XL 2400kv in my V1 Sonicwake on 4S. What would you recommend for a prop size for decent speed/run time. Or would you just keep the stock 1900kv on 4S and get a different prop? Trying to get A middle ground on speed and run time for my son&wife to have some fun.
Hey man, I been learning a lot watching ur boat videos, I was wondering if you’ve had problem with steering, I changed the steering rod on mine. I ended up using part of a cable from an old bike…it actually ended up working perfectly lol have you had to improvise anything?
I changed my steering rod over to carbon fiber only because it's lighter weight
😮😮😮❤❤❤ love it bro
Yo kid
What's up big b just want to say my brother you put out good content. I have learned a lot from watching your videos
If you are using lead solder, try using the silver bearing solder it melts at a higher temperature.
Started using silver solder just after this video. Been good so far
What would be the best motor to run on the UL 19 the ESC is 180
Just subscribed I watch your videos to LEARN and save money on upgrades thank you. I'm and old nitro on road nut.
I had same problem with my sss 2881kv can’t find any specs on it
Thank you for the information!!
The heat is due to resistance in the wires. Can you replace the wire with the next gauge thicker as well larger battery connectors? That should help bro! Boat Gang
I got a question for u I am have a problem charging my batteries
So the 1700kv has a slower top Rpm at the same volts but could handle a bigger prop & create less heat?
The 2000kv spins at a higher rpm at the same volts but intern creates more heat?
So a 1700kv has more Tq at slightly less rpm & the 2000kv has less tq but more Hp & a higher rpm limit.
Am i correctly thinking these terms?
I just bought a 4082 1700kv for my Spartan wondering now if its actually a upgrade from the 540xl, i assume it may spin less rpm but could handle the bigger props
You're thinking is correct! The 1700kv 4082 will handle a much larger prop with cooler temps, Basically more efficient...
@IRONCLADRC thanks Big B! I think your channel is beginning to blow up! I just bought a used Recoil 2 from one of your subscribers & I bought it from him bc of your videos on the boat. Funny how it made full circle to 2 of your viewers bcnof your videos! Keep um coming!
Speed is definitely not this boats problem. I'm still running stock but might back it down in kv. My wires get hot too
Have a question about the cooling tubes running from the esc...I have a vector sr80-pro boat and the exit tube from the esc (stock esc) runs all the way out the back of the boat... it works fine ...just saw alot of your boats have it running outa the side really close to the exit tube of the esc...does that get the water in and out of the esc faster than running that long tube to the back???🤔 and is it better for the esc to keep it cooler...🤔 thanks👍
My personal opinion yes. Also having the exit on the side allows you to see the the water flow while running the boat
@@IRONCLADRC HOW HIGH SHOULD IT BE ON THE SIDE??? ENOUGH TO SEE THE WATER COMING OUT???
With as easy as that bullet pulled out thats probably the issue!!! My OSE 6mm take some force to unplug...
Thanks
I c u live Jacksonville nc I live n washington nc would love 2 come down an hang out with u watch u run your boats an ask some questions
That's would be awesome brother. Shoot me an email sometime
DID YOU GET THE PAINT DONE YET?
No I've been super busy here lately
Please help I have the ul-19 how to get 2 turn better
OSE Offshoreelectrics.com has a curved turn fin that will definitely get that boat on "rails"
Hey bro I think I would try to put that 2000 KV motor back in it on 6s of course put your 8 mm bullets on it and then see what happens I think that's your weak link is just your bullet connectors. Because that's 1700 KV it just don't have the pep like the 2000 did. You know how we are if you can't beat on it hard or take it to bed it ain't worth having
I've got a 4082 2200 kv motor in her now with a 200a esc
Answer for Question on 09:38 min
Specification for
=/SSS 4074/2000KV marine motor RC/=
1.Motor Winding: 2Y
2.Diameter/Length: 40/74 mm/mm
3.Max Amps: 132 A
4. Max Voltage: 26 V
5. Max Power: 3500 W
6. No-load current: 2.9 A
7. Max RPM: 55,000 /55K
8. Shaft (fi): 5 mm
9. Weight: 380 g
10. Poles: 4P
Thanks, that motor has been an absolute beast in that boat, 2 years later, I finally got the motor specs. 89mph motor in the ul19 w/ Hydra xlx w
Fill the screws with silicone B
I actually did, I'm running the 2000 kv in my veles filled the grub screws with silicone before installing the motor. ALL GREAT MINDS THINK ALIKE!
my charger is blinking red and green but never went any other color and it was at like 4 %
The balance lead from the battery could be dirty/corroded. Use a stiff wire, stick in each balance lead hole on battery one at a time! Move the wire around in the balance lead holes knocking the dirt & corrosion off
And qs8 connectors on the batterys
those are 4 pole motors thats why
Drop a tp motor in that thing
I just ordered a set of bearings for my 1900kv tppower 4060