Hello panjok2, You're welcome! LOl! I've heard that before. Hopefully it helps with any future projects! Thanks for the kind words and enjoy the holidays! Al
Hello Emin; Thanks for the kind words! Knipex are the best in my books! Never fail me and the bigger pair can be used for just about anything when it comes to a wrench. Excellent tool that always take a good bite. Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Hello roby14; Thanks very much for the kind words! Years ago zone valves were put on backwards to prevent banging when the zone valve shut off. When leaving the boiler; the arrows are pointed towards the pump on most systems. I don't really know if it makes any difference to be honest with you.I have seen them in both directions! Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Quick question ... the return shut off valve you show at around 12:30 ... does the direction of that valve matter ? I have 5 zones ... and one was added later. The last one looks like it was installed in opposite direction -- does this matter ? The hot water flow to that last one seems slower -- not sure if it is related to this shut off valve direction or not.
Hello Chris, It doesn't make any difference how the valve is installed. Both the zone valves and ball valves can be installed in either direction. Zone valves began to be installed backwards at least forty years ago. The reason was to prevent water hammer. The pumps pull the water through so fast that when the zone valve closed; the loop would bang and rattle when it closed. So installing them backwards helped this from happening somewhat, but by reducing the amount of water flowing back to the boiler by closing the return about half way cured the problem. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
John, great video. Thank you. I just had the plumber change one zone valve MOTOR (not the whole valve) for $275. I think I was ripped off as the valve itself can be had for about $60. It took them 5 min. They didn't have to even touch a water valve or relieve any pressure. By the way, what was wrong with the zone valves you changed here, that you didn't just swap out the motor?
+brute910 Thank you! The valve that was there was sticking open. It wasn't the motor in this situation. Like any valve, water has a lot to play with the life expectancy of it. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
I built a new addition and I plumbed the convectors in series. This is the way I remove the air like you were showing. The old house convectors are plumbed in parallel. It has bleeders at each convector . Does this way work with a parallel plumbed convectors or do I have to go to each bleeder fitting like I have in the past. I was never sure-Thank you-very good video as always.
+john james The way the loops were bled years ago was with air vents at each rad. Unfortunately if you have a flow and return with tees coming from each line feeding the rads; you will have continue to bleed each piece of baseboard individually. Thanks for commenting and enjoy the holidays! Al
Hello Quaker4, I have seen them last for decades. A lot depends on water quality. You should get at least 10 years out of a valve. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
My Zone Valves have three settings: in the middle it says, Manual, and the lever can slide along this slot. But on both ends of this slot are two locking positions: Auto and Open. For normal thermostat control, should my these zone valves be set on manual or Auto? Right now they are on manual, and ...I just don't know.
***** You want them set on auto so they will be controlled by the thermostat. It is the thermostat that will open the valve for you automatically when it is calling for heat! Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
Hey again. I'm back with another one. One of my client bought a building, hired some jacklegs to slap up up some rock/tile/ bath fixtures etc in the the two upstairs apts.... completely neglecting the bones of the the property as well as first and basement floors. I saw the property back in say July i told him he needs a rewire and does the heat work? No it does not and i get a call every week about the electric(each apt is ran off two 30 amp fuses)..... anyway i've replaced what pipe was stolen/ burst. press/temp gauge wasnt reading, replaced that. filled the sys today got excited when i heard the water come back down to the boiler. Still pressure gauge doesn't budge(just bought it this morning. I did find another leak but I know i have pressure as I bled a few few of the rads. Any ideas? local gas will not turn on service until i have a working press gauge... THX a bunch
Hello Randy; So on the boiler; you have a gauge called a tradicator. It reads both temperature and pressure of the system. the pressure has to be at least twelve pounds. In order to get this pressure; you may have to go to the pressure reducing valve and lift the brass lever on top. What happens quite often is the pressure reducing valve plugs up with minerals sediment and will not allow water to enter into the system. On top of the PRV is a lever. If you lift it up this will push down on the diaphragm and allow water to enter. While you do this you want to check the gauge and make sure it does not exceed 12 pounds. Once it has reached that pressure you can put the lever back down and the pressure will stay there. Over time the pressure will drop again and you will have to repeat this process perhaps a few times over the winter, but this will get you out of a jam. The PRV should be replaced in the future sometime. If you have a crawl space you may want to check to make sure all the pipes are watertight as well. A small leak can cause a drop in pressure in a very short time. In order to raise water to the second floor which would be around 14 feet you would need a little more then 6 pounds of pressure just to get it there. One pound of pressure raises water 2.31 feet. I am not an electrician, but I do know that a stove calls for a 40 amp breaker or fuse and a dryer calls for 30. So I would say that the wiring should be changed as soon as possible to prevent anything serious from happening. You want to get that done asap....That would be on top of my list as soon as you get the heat on. Thanks for commenting and let me know how you get along! Al
Hey, I got everything working fine, Gas co came out turned on gas tried to light pilot, no go. Im thinking 1. make sure injector is clean if so 2. replace gas control valve... any thoughts? Thx
Hello Randy; Glad everything is working for you! As far as the gas goes...I don't go near them. I leave that work up to the technicians when it comes to both oil or gas. That is a specialty that I always get them to do. I know it costs money, but it is better to be safe then sorry. Sorry I can't help you on this one. Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
Regarding the water that comes to the system once it is filled should i close the valve and open it once a year so not allowing more water or open it little bit or keep it open al the way and leave it thx
Hello john Al, In regards to the valve prior to the pressure reducing valve (PRV) which feeds the system that valve should be left open all year round. The PRV will control the amount of water the system needs so no worries about opening or closing the feed valve. You keep it open year round! Hope this helps! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
@@TheOldkid888 Thank you kindly i also want to change the Auto air van so if i don't find the exact serial number that mine has then what should i look for in a new air van in order to work for my system since i never changed that changing lots of parts but still my upstairs is not getting to 20 only reaching to 10 but instead down stair get to 30 donot know why when i increase up stair thermostat why that is happening thx
Idk if you still read comments but I have a question, my zone valve has a pipe that goes into it with a gasket (little black rubber piece) that is in between the pipe and zone valve, theres a minor leak there, how can I fix this?
Hello King Kav, I always try and answer any questions sent my way.... I take it you knew how to reduce the pressure on the system in order to see this gasket? Generally the valves are connected by an inverted flared connection, soldered directly to the valve or a female thread on either end of the valve. I would imagine you unscrewed a nut that makes the connection where the rubber gasket is located? I have gaskets many many times for heating systems out of red rubber where I used them on pump flanges. You could do this or purchase an o-ring that is wide and thick enough to fit into the space and will compress down making a gasket. I hope this gives you a few ideas.... Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance....Al
every part that needs to or can be changed should have vales on each side but in reality that is not so. what is your most fond manufacturer for your parts ex vales pumps and water heaters and piping system ex copper pex or good old fashion stainless
Hello Colt; Never enough valves for sure. On the high and low side of that pump; a valve would certainly make a difference in replacing that pump. I am a big valve fan. Can never have too many. Grundfos is my go to pump manufacturer. B&G are as good as any along with Armstrong. I use to be a huge \crane fan, before they went south. Jenkins is my choice at this time. Very dependable. I don't know if there is any difference in water heaters today! I think they are made at the factory with a button that punches a hole in them when the warranty is up. Some tanks now have a 12 year warranty; so that is what I usually recommend. At least nine if not 12. Giant is very popular around these parts. When it comes to stainless steel tubing; as long as it is 316L; doesn't matter the manufacturer. you just want good quality steel. Rehau was my go to for the pex, but the price rise is ridiculous as of late. It went to more then double since it was introduced. Uponor (Wirsbo) is always going to popular, but I prefer Veiga for the price and installation time. ABS is the go to in residential in this area. I know I get a lot people wondering why I don't use PVC; just not the go to although I have installed a lot of it in commercial buildings. Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
TheOldkid888 well here is my list ballvales Apollo, water heaters AO smith, pumps Grunfos for 1/2 to 1" aplications and armstong for the rest, for piping hard pipe where visible and flexable piping is the walls in the walls. but if i could is would all be pex but for commercial i like to run stainless almost a cheap as galvanized but almost as good as brass and i can weld the fittings together i would run pex but fire code here is a pain
Are you sure you had to replace that whole unit? Its normally just the round motor that gives out our gets weak. No draining of the system and the motors cost about $40. One or two philips screws to get it off after disconnecting wires.
Hello standollar, Motors do go on them, but valves can become stiff as well and not open such as in this case. A lot depends on water quality. If the valve sits for six months; there is a possibility the valve will not open. The water in this system was full of minerals. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Hi i tried to find relief valve for my floor heating radiant { watts regulator model M no 335 size 3/4 inch set 30 lbs BTU per hr rating NB ASME HV 510,000 } I took the valve and checked with plumbing store but could not find the same model can u please let me know what is important to be the same as the description above if i buy one from deferent company or deferent model Thanks
Hello john Al, You need a relief that will pop at 30 psi just like the one you have. Watts is a very popular brand and I am surprised they didn't carry it. I have been buying the 335 for over forty years now. If you are buying one from a different company make sure it is set for 30 PSI. That is the biggest thing to look for. I know you can purchase them on line. Amazon carries Watts. I would shop around in your area. Someone should carry it. You could also call a plumbing company and they may sell one to you. May cost a little more, but you will get what you are looking for. Hope this helps! Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the repair! Al
My system sometimes slams/bangs very loudly right after the initiating clicks. I was told it could be faulty zone valves but it feels more like a pressure issue.
Hello Alex, I have come across this problem several times. Once zone shuts off you get a sound as you have described. The zone valve closes with the clicking sound that you mentioned and the water is being pulled around at a very high speed with the pump. The zone valve is closing quite quickly before the water stops. There are a few ways of resolving this and one is to install a slow closing zone valve. The second is to remove a one of the two springs on the valve or you can throttle back on your return valve on the loop. I have done all three over the years, but simply closing the return valve to a point of where it is about 1/3rd of the way open will resolve your problem. I am pretty certain. You can start by closing it half way and trying it, but about 1/3rd open works well. Hope this helps! Let me know how you get along. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
@@TheOldkid888 I really appreciate your response!! I'm going to try closing the return valve a bit and start off with that. No wonder this doesn't really happen when we have both zones set to the same temp.
Hello Alex, I think it should work fine for you. I have done it many times with no issues. About a third way open should work for you. Don't be concerned about water flow. The size of the tail pieces coming off the zone valve is about 1/3 the size of the pipe. You may have to tweak it a little bit at a time, but it will work for you! Best of luck! Thanks for commenting and let me know how you get along...Al
@@TheOldkid888 I really appreciate all of your help. On my return, I actually have 2 valves (unlike the video). Which one of the two would you recommend throttling? Coming in to the pump or the one coming out? Thanks again.
Hello Alex, Not a problem! I would throttle the one coming into the pump myself. Either will work, but the one coming in is my preference. Thanks for commenting and let me know how you get along....Al
+Arks Shackerwell (ArksE8) I shut the water off to the heating system just before the pressure reducing valve on the system. There is usually a shut off located on all systems. I may have mentioned the water main, but it is the shut off before the PRV that you close. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
+TheOldkid888 the main should be isolated anyway or the central heating will be full of pressure. here in UK we fill the system to 1 or 1.2 bar and close the valve
Arks Shackerwell Pretty cool! In North America we have pressure reducing valves feeding the systems so no valves have to turned off. The PRV keeps the pressure at 12 pounds minimum and no valves have to be closed. I have fed water into the system through a hose just to pressurize it enough to get heat to the upper floors. It generally lasts for a few months and then has to be recharged. That is the nice thing about the PRV. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
None of our suppliers in Vermont stock threaded zone valves ,so they are all sweat. The good thing about Honeywell is all motor assembly's fit all the same as does the valve head ,it's the same O ring great valve for the last 40 years ! Always go with the V8043E.....E for easy, not the V8043F .......F for f*#$* up.
Hello Jimmy, Thanks a lot. I really like the way you remember the valve number. Definitely will help with remembering in the future. Thanks for comenting and have a great one! Al
Hello Dave; Thanks for the kind words! My bad! Slipped out! Oversight! LOL! Knipex do kick ass! Amazing quality! Hopefully they will always be in business! Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
+Elton Williams A lot of factors go into changing a valve out. How long it takes to install, adding water back into the system may take a considerable amount of time if the feed water valve isn't working properly and the time to purge the loop may take a while depending on the length of it. Everyone looks at the amount of time that someone is there, but travel is put into this price as well. When companies send a repair man regardless of what their trade is; they have to pay them from the moment they start driving. Picking up parts is another factor that most people don't consider. I have heard of bills considerably higher for the same job. Thanks for commenting and enjoy 2016! Al That is one impressive rainbow Elton have in your pic!! Love fishing!!!
Hello valeriehofmann2615, What floor would the zone be heating in the house? Is it for the upper floor and what pressure is on the system as well? Get back to me when you get a chance.....Al
@@valeriehofmann2615 Is the valve opening when you place the thermostat higher? You should either see the lever move by itself on the zone valve or be able to slide it back and forth the full distance. You may want to check this thoroughly as it could be your thermostat. If you did purge the system well...it could be possible that your return valve is not open. What type of valve is on the return line that you shut off near the valve you used to purge the system. A ball valve or a gate valve? Ball valve is a simple quarter turn and a gate turns a number of time to slowly close. Get back to me when you get a chance....Al
@@valeriehofmann2615 Does the switch on the side of the zone valve move freely (slide back and forth freely) when the thermostat is turned up? So good chance the return ball valve is fine and opened properly after you purged. You want to unhook your zone valve so that it moves freely. It should slide back into position , but make sure you unhook the lever on the zone valve just to be safe. You want someone to go and move the thermostat down to the off position (as low as it can go) and you should listen to the zone valve when they do that. Then move the thermostat as high as it can go and listen to the zone valve to make sure it is opening fine. If you take a screwdriver and place the end of the handle very close to your ear and the metal end on the valve when they move the thermostat you should hear the motor open the zone valve. If you don't hear anything I would look at the thermostat. Simply remove the thermostat from the wall, unhook the two wires and cross them over. This should open the zone valve for you and your thermostat is the problem. Get back to me when you get a chance....Al
![Minecraft but Players Can Upgrade [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QRRgLJs4ZPk/mqdefault.jpg)
thank you for this video, extremely helpful. you are saving my grandparents money they don't have, greatly appreciated
Hello Brandon,
You're welcome!
Nice to hear they are saving a little money!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
7:17 ...I was always told, If u shake it more than twice, you're playin with it! haha
great video! thanks for the help!
Hello panjok2,
You're welcome!
LOl! I've heard that before.
Hopefully it helps with any future projects!
Thanks for the kind words and enjoy the holidays! Al
Great video, you explain things much clearer than others I’ve seen on here. Thanks much appreciated
Hello Christian,
You're welcome!
Hopefully it helps with your project!
Thanks for the kind words and enjoy your week! Al
Good Job Brother. I love the KNIPEX pliers.
Hello Emin;
Thanks for the kind words!
Knipex are the best in my books! Never fail me and the bigger pair can be used for just about
anything when it comes to a wrench. Excellent tool that always take a good bite.
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Thanks for this, great help.
Hello megaarsecrack,
You are more than welcome!
Hopefully your repair will go well for you!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Great video! What's with the massive flow restriction at the valve? Looks like everything is 3/4 pipe and then they go down to 1/2" at the valve body?
Are the zone valves installed upside down , does it matter ? Thanks please help
Hi
Great Video. Are the arrows on the zone valves pointing in the same direction as the circulating pump?
Hello roby14;
Thanks very much for the kind words!
Years ago zone valves were put on backwards to prevent banging when the zone valve shut off.
When leaving the boiler; the arrows are pointed towards the pump on most systems. I don't really know if it makes any difference to be honest with you.I have seen them in both directions!
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
So helpful thanks!
Hello michaelmorgan5656,
You're welcome!
Hopefully the repair goes well for you!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy you holidays! Al
everything is well explained just not in signs how to connect the cables that is very important I will appreciate it if you explain it thanks
Quick question ... the return shut off valve you show at around 12:30 ... does the direction of that valve matter ? I have 5 zones ... and one was added later. The last one looks like it was installed in opposite direction -- does this matter ? The hot water flow to that last one seems slower -- not sure if it is related to this shut off valve direction or not.
Hello Chris,
It doesn't make any difference how the valve is installed. Both the zone valves and ball valves can be installed in either direction. Zone valves began to be installed backwards at least forty years ago. The reason was to prevent water hammer. The pumps pull the water through so fast that when the zone valve closed; the loop would bang and rattle when it closed. So installing them backwards helped this from happening somewhat, but by reducing the amount of water flowing back to the boiler by closing the return about half way cured the problem.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
John, great video. Thank you. I just had the plumber change one zone valve MOTOR (not the whole valve) for $275. I think I was ripped off as the valve itself can be had for about $60. It took them 5 min. They didn't have to even touch a water valve or relieve any pressure. By the way, what was wrong with the zone valves you changed here, that you didn't just swap out the motor?
+brute910
Thank you!
The valve that was there was sticking open. It wasn't the motor in this situation. Like any valve, water has a lot to play with the life expectancy of it.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
I built a new addition and I plumbed the convectors in series. This is the way I remove the air like you were showing. The old house convectors are plumbed in parallel. It has bleeders at each convector . Does this way work with a parallel plumbed convectors or do I have to go to each bleeder fitting like I have in the past. I was never sure-Thank you-very good video as always.
+john james
The way the loops were bled years ago was with air vents at each rad.
Unfortunately if you have a flow and return with tees coming from each line feeding the rads; you will have continue to bleed each piece of baseboard individually.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy the holidays! Al
Yes I have tees. Now I know..Thank you
john james
You are more than welcome!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy the holidays! Al
thanks for this ...
Hello pei broker,
You're more than welcome!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
How long do these valves usually last? I would assume you get 5+ years out of a valve?
Hello Quaker4,
I have seen them last for decades. A lot depends on water quality.
You should get at least 10 years out of a valve.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
My Zone Valves have three settings: in the middle it says, Manual, and the lever can slide along this slot. But on both ends of this slot are two locking positions: Auto and Open. For normal thermostat control, should my these zone valves be set on manual or Auto? Right now they are on manual, and ...I just don't know.
***** You want them set on auto so they will be controlled by the thermostat. It is the thermostat that will open the valve for you automatically when it is calling for heat!
Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
Hey again. I'm back with another one. One of my client bought a building, hired some jacklegs to slap up up some rock/tile/ bath fixtures etc in the the two upstairs apts.... completely neglecting the bones of the the property as well as first and basement floors. I saw the property back in say July i told him he needs a rewire and does the heat work?
No it does not and i get a call every week about the electric(each apt is ran off two 30 amp fuses)..... anyway i've replaced what pipe was stolen/ burst. press/temp gauge wasnt reading, replaced that. filled the sys today got excited when i heard the water come back down to the boiler. Still pressure gauge doesn't budge(just bought it this morning. I did find another leak but I know i have pressure as I bled a few few of the rads. Any ideas? local gas will not turn on service until i have a working press gauge... THX a bunch
Hello Randy;
So on the boiler; you have a gauge called a tradicator. It reads both temperature and pressure of the system.
the pressure has to be at least twelve pounds. In order to get this pressure; you may have to go to the pressure reducing valve and lift the brass lever on top. What happens quite often is the pressure reducing valve plugs up with minerals sediment and will not allow water to enter into the system. On top of the PRV is a lever. If you lift it up this will push down on the diaphragm and allow water to enter. While you do this you want to check the gauge and make sure it does not exceed 12 pounds. Once it has reached that pressure you can put the lever back down and the pressure will stay there. Over time the pressure will drop again and you will have to repeat this process perhaps a few times over the winter, but this will get you out of a jam. The PRV should be replaced in the future sometime.
If you have a crawl space you may want to check to make sure all the pipes are watertight as well. A small leak can cause a drop in pressure in a very short time. In order to raise water to the second floor which would be around 14 feet you would need a little more then 6 pounds of pressure just to get it there. One pound of pressure raises water 2.31 feet.
I am not an electrician, but I do know that a stove calls for a 40 amp breaker or fuse and a dryer calls for 30. So I would say that the wiring should be changed as soon as possible to prevent anything serious from happening. You want to get that done asap....That would be on top of my list as soon as you get the heat on.
Thanks for commenting and let me know how you get along! Al
Hey, I got everything working fine, Gas co came out turned on gas tried to light pilot, no go. Im thinking 1. make sure injector is clean if so 2. replace gas control valve... any thoughts? Thx
Hello Randy;
Glad everything is working for you!
As far as the gas goes...I don't go near them. I leave that work up to the technicians when it comes to both oil or gas. That is a specialty that I always get them to do.
I know it costs money, but it is better to be safe then sorry.
Sorry I can't help you on this one.
Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
Regarding the water that comes to the system once it is filled should i close the valve and open it once a year so not allowing more water or open it little bit or keep it open al the way and leave it thx
Hello john Al,
In regards to the valve prior to the pressure reducing valve (PRV) which feeds the system that valve should be left open all year round. The PRV will control the amount of water the system needs so no worries about opening or closing the feed valve. You keep it open year round!
Hope this helps!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
@@TheOldkid888 Thank you kindly i also want to change the Auto air van so if i don't find the exact serial number that mine has then what should i look for in a new air van in order to work for my system since i never changed that changing lots of parts but still my upstairs is not getting to 20 only reaching to 10 but instead down stair get to 30 donot know why when i increase up stair thermostat why that is happening thx
Idk if you still read comments but I have a question, my zone valve has a pipe that goes into it with a gasket (little black rubber piece) that is in between the pipe and zone valve, theres a minor leak there, how can I fix this?
Hello King Kav,
I always try and answer any questions sent my way....
I take it you knew how to reduce the pressure on the system in order to see this gasket?
Generally the valves are connected by an inverted flared connection, soldered directly to the valve or a female thread on either end of the valve.
I would imagine you unscrewed a nut that makes the connection where the rubber gasket is located? I have gaskets many many times for heating systems out of red rubber where I used them on pump flanges. You could do this or purchase an o-ring that is wide and thick enough to fit into the space and will compress down making a gasket.
I hope this gives you a few ideas....
Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance....Al
every part that needs to or can be changed should have vales on each side but in reality that is not so.
what is your most fond manufacturer for your parts ex vales pumps and water heaters and piping system ex copper pex or good old fashion stainless
Hello Colt;
Never enough valves for sure. On the high and low side of that pump; a valve would certainly make a difference in replacing that pump. I am a big valve fan. Can never have too many.
Grundfos is my go to pump manufacturer. B&G are as good as any along with Armstrong.
I use to be a huge \crane fan, before they went south. Jenkins is my choice at this time. Very dependable.
I don't know if there is any difference in water heaters today! I think they are made at the factory with a button that punches a hole in them when the warranty is up. Some tanks now have a 12 year warranty; so that is what I usually recommend. At least nine if not 12. Giant is very popular around these parts.
When it comes to stainless steel tubing; as long as it is 316L; doesn't matter the manufacturer. you just want good quality steel.
Rehau was my go to for the pex, but the price rise is ridiculous as of late. It went to more then double since it was introduced. Uponor (Wirsbo) is always going to popular, but I prefer Veiga for the price and installation time.
ABS is the go to in residential in this area. I know I get a lot people wondering why I don't use PVC; just not the go to although I have installed a lot of it in commercial buildings.
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
TheOldkid888
well here is my list
ballvales Apollo, water heaters AO smith, pumps Grunfos for 1/2 to 1" aplications and armstong for the rest, for piping hard pipe where visible and flexable piping is the walls in the walls. but if i could is would all be pex but for commercial i like to run stainless almost a cheap as galvanized but almost as good as brass and i can weld the fittings together i would run pex but fire code here is a pain
Thanks for all that golden information! Gladly accept it! Helps me in troubleshooting!
Hello Mike,
You're more than welcome!
Feel free to ask any other questions if something should arise!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Cheaper to just change the Motor part . That's usually what goes bad
Leave the plumbing alone
Great info though
Are you sure you had to replace that whole unit? Its normally just the round motor that gives out our gets weak. No draining of the system and the motors cost about $40. One or two philips screws to get it off after disconnecting wires.
Hello standollar,
Motors do go on them, but valves can become stiff as well and not open such as in this case. A lot depends on water quality. If the valve sits for six months; there is a possibility the valve will not open. The water in this system was full of minerals.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Hi i tried to find relief valve for my floor heating radiant { watts regulator model M no 335 size 3/4 inch set 30 lbs BTU per hr rating NB ASME HV 510,000 } I took the valve and checked with plumbing store but could not find the same model can u please let me know what is important to be the same as the description above if i buy one from deferent company or deferent model Thanks
Hello john Al,
You need a relief that will pop at 30 psi just like the one you have. Watts is a very popular brand and I am surprised they didn't carry it. I have been buying the 335 for over forty years now.
If you are buying one from a different company make sure it is set for 30 PSI. That is the biggest thing to look for.
I know you can purchase them on line. Amazon carries Watts.
I would shop around in your area. Someone should carry it. You could also call a plumbing company and they may sell one to you. May cost a little more, but you will get what you are looking for.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the repair! Al
Is that expansion tank upside down?
+noe name
The extrol tank contains a bladder and can be used both ways.
Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
My system sometimes slams/bangs very loudly right after the initiating clicks. I was told it could be faulty zone valves but it feels more like a pressure issue.
Hello Alex,
I have come across this problem several times. Once zone shuts off you get a sound as you have described.
The zone valve closes with the clicking sound that you mentioned and the water is being pulled around at a very high speed with the pump. The zone valve is closing quite quickly before the water stops.
There are a few ways of resolving this and one is to install a slow closing zone valve. The second is to remove a one of the two springs on the valve or you can throttle back on your return valve on the loop. I have done all three over the years, but simply closing the return valve to a point of where it is about 1/3rd of the way open will resolve your problem. I am pretty certain. You can start by closing it half way and trying it, but about 1/3rd open works well.
Hope this helps!
Let me know how you get along.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
@@TheOldkid888 I really appreciate your response!! I'm going to try closing the return valve a bit and start off with that. No wonder this doesn't really happen when we have both zones set to the same temp.
Hello Alex,
I think it should work fine for you. I have done it many times with no issues. About a third way open should work for you. Don't be concerned about water flow. The size of the tail pieces coming off the zone valve is about 1/3 the size of the pipe. You may have to tweak it a little bit at a time, but it will work for you!
Best of luck!
Thanks for commenting and let me know how you get along...Al
@@TheOldkid888 I really appreciate all of your help. On my return, I actually have 2 valves (unlike the video). Which one of the two would you recommend throttling? Coming in to the pump or the one coming out? Thanks again.
Hello Alex,
Not a problem!
I would throttle the one coming into the pump myself.
Either will work, but the one coming in is my preference.
Thanks for commenting and let me know how you get along....Al
why would u shut off the water main if your working on the central heating
+Arks Shackerwell (ArksE8)
I shut the water off to the heating system just before the pressure reducing valve on the system. There is usually
a shut off located on all systems.
I may have mentioned the water main, but it is the shut off before the PRV that you close.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
+TheOldkid888 the main should be isolated anyway or the central heating will be full of pressure. here in UK we fill the system to 1 or 1.2 bar and close the valve
Arks Shackerwell
Pretty cool!
In North America we have pressure reducing valves feeding the systems so no valves have to turned off. The PRV keeps the pressure at 12 pounds minimum and no valves have to be closed.
I have fed water into the system through a hose just to pressurize it enough to get heat to the upper floors. It generally lasts for a few months and then has to be recharged.
That is the nice thing about the PRV.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
None of our suppliers in Vermont stock threaded zone valves ,so they are all sweat. The good thing about Honeywell is all motor assembly's fit all the same as does the valve head ,it's the same O ring great valve for the last 40 years ! Always go with the V8043E.....E for easy, not the V8043F .......F for f*#$* up.
Hello Jimmy,
Thanks a lot.
I really like the way you remember the valve number.
Definitely will help with remembering in the future.
Thanks for comenting and have a great one! Al
Nice vid. Pls don't ever compare knipex to channellock. Lol. Knipex (german made) kick ass.
Hello Dave;
Thanks for the kind words!
My bad! Slipped out! Oversight! LOL!
Knipex do kick ass! Amazing quality! Hopefully they will always be in business!
Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
I was just charged 287 bucks to change my zone valve is that worth it or did I get ripped off
+Elton Williams
A lot of factors go into changing a valve out. How long it takes to install, adding water back into the system may take a considerable amount of time if the feed water valve isn't working properly and the time to purge the loop may take a while depending on the length of it.
Everyone looks at the amount of time that someone is there, but travel is put into this price as well. When companies send a repair man regardless of what their trade is; they have to pay them from the moment they start driving.
Picking up parts is another factor that most people don't consider.
I have heard of bills considerably higher for the same job.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy 2016! Al
That is one impressive rainbow Elton have in your pic!!
Love fishing!!!
Replaced the valve and the 3rd zone still doesn't work. Any other ideas?
Hello valeriehofmann2615,
What floor would the zone be heating in the house? Is it for the upper floor and what pressure is on the system as well?
Get back to me when you get a chance.....Al
@@TheOldkid888 bottom floor basement.
@@valeriehofmann2615
Is the valve opening when you place the thermostat higher? You should either see the lever move by itself on the zone valve or be able to slide it back and forth the full distance. You may want to check this thoroughly as it could be your thermostat.
If you did purge the system well...it could be possible that your return valve is not open.
What type of valve is on the return line that you shut off near the valve you used to purge the system. A ball valve or a gate valve? Ball valve is a simple quarter turn and a gate turns a number of time to slowly close.
Get back to me when you get a chance....Al
@@TheOldkid888 thermostat is set to 90. He set it in manual and its a ball valve
@@valeriehofmann2615
Does the switch on the side of the zone valve move freely (slide back and forth freely) when the thermostat is turned up?
So good chance the return ball valve is fine and opened properly after you purged.
You want to unhook your zone valve so that it moves freely. It should slide back into position , but make sure you unhook the lever on the zone valve just to be safe. You want someone to go and move the thermostat down to the off position (as low as it can go) and you should listen to the zone valve when they do that. Then move the thermostat as high as it can go and listen to the zone valve to make sure it is opening fine. If you take a screwdriver and place the end of the handle very close to your ear and the metal end on the valve when they move the thermostat you should hear the motor open the zone valve. If you don't hear anything I would look at the thermostat. Simply remove the thermostat from the wall, unhook the two wires and cross them over. This should open the zone valve for you and your thermostat is the problem.
Get back to me when you get a chance....Al