How to remove the air from your hot water heating system
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- Опубликовано: 27 янв 2013
- I did a quick video on how to remove air from your hot water heating system. Your heating system design my be slightly different than mine but the basics are covered in my video.
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Thanks Hunting Buddy! 🙂🙂🙂
Big help to us . . . we've been suffering with our heating system for some time now. Thanks again! 🙂
Remember Buddy, that God Loves You and remember that He wants you to love Him too ❤️ 🙂
Great video! I've been putting off this job because I am a bit intimidated but your instructions give me the confidence to tackle this issue.
It's 1:00am, 23 degrees outside and the pressure died in our system. The plumber told us he'd be here tomorrow. You demystified this system and I did it myself. Now my family is warm, and it took no time at all. Thank you so much for sharing this video.
Thanks for the kind words. I am happy my video was able to help you.
That was a great video and I liked how you explained how the water comes in and then you explained each step thoroughly. Most of the other videos show steps already done without explaining why it was done, but your video and Fix it With Zim's video are both very comprehensive with this process
This was the one video (of dozens watched on the topic) that answered every question I had and solved the problem for us. Thanks a million!
You probably dont give a damn but does any of you know a tool to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot my account password. I would love any tricks you can offer me
Great video and broken down very simply for this first time homeowner! Thank you for making this video!.
Thanks for making this video. My system is a little different but you gave me enough information to finally get my garage circuit bled, and heat re-established out there before the coming Anchorage AK winter could freeze my pipes. System still needs some improvement, but you helped me buy some breathing space.
Thank you thank you! I did as you instructed and no more gushing sounds in the baseboards. Well done video!
bro you saved the day. our baseboard heat wasn't working because one of our loops was air bound. watched your video and followed the steps and we are back to having heat! Bravo Zulu!
Great! Glad I could help. Thanks for watching and thanks for the feedback.
Thank you for taking the time to make this.
Awesome. I had a pipe burst today. I had a heck of a time trying to get the air out of the system. So I took a break and found your video. Luckily whoever put in my system did it very similar to your setup. The only difference was there was no zone valves only circulator pumps which acted like valves. Thanks for the video.
+RB Hayride Glad I could help.
This is a very well thought out and plumbed system. I wish mine was like this. I almost feel like cutting all my lines off and redoing my system like yours.
The only issue I have is... I wished it would have been done in 3/4 pex instead of 5/8 pex. Nobody carries 5/8:pex a
Now this is an Excellent Video & very well installion on whomever did his boiler installion, its nice to see some people still put pride in their work, also the video was very educational, & i used to do heating & cooling for 15 years, keep up the quality work
Thanks. You've helped me a lot. I don't have zone valve. it's an old house, single loop.
Great video.. Boy am I happy for finding this video.. answered a lot of questions about how the supply and return works as well as pressure and bleeding system.. Thank you...Thank you..
Great video. Easy to follow and understand. Thanks for sharing. I just replaced seals at my water circulation pump and will need to bleed the system.
Thanks for the info. I took an oil heat class years ago, but didn't learn this. I replaced my expansion tank and check valve. I knew how to drain enough water to replace without it spitting at me. Now I know how to bleed if the bleed valve takes too long :)
Thank you so much for a well done video. I owe you a big one. I just knew that my pump was bad, but after running through your air bleeding process, the heat is back on again.
Glad the video helped. Thanks for the feedback and channel support.
Always learn something, I normally use to open the drain valve all the way and have open the regulator open to keep the pressure high, but now I will go slow just like you have shown, little big secret that will make a big difference removing air. Thank you for your information.
Thanks a lot for taking your time to explain the process.
Best video on this issue, hands down!!
Nice work, thanks for taking the time !
Just wanted to say thanks! My system varied slightly, but same process. I had radiator bleeders in my last house, this one doesn't, floor radiant heat and baseboards. after watching your video cleared up how to do it. Once again, Thanks!
+n3lka Thanks for watching and commenting. I am glad I was able to help.
Thank You! Appreciate the time you spent to help educate your fellow man on this procedure.!
+Gary Johnson Glad I could help.
Great explanation. Thanks for making this video.
Great explanation and good video. Thank you.
Great video! I was able to remove the air from one loop that was air bound, and restore heat to an upstairs bedroom. Thanks!
Excellent! Thanks for the detailed instructions.
Dude thank you... exactly what I needed. Great explanation.
Great video. I have watched several videos where steps are not clearly explained. Especially the string of that electronic valve had how to put it on manual setting.
Great simplified video. Thanks
Great video.You made it easy to understand
Very helpful. Thank you!
Well done! Thanks for sharing.
Great video definitely will try keep them coming
Just what I needed - thanks!
That was cool. You are a great teacher, now I know how to remove air from a hot water boiler
juanjc1951 Thanks for the kind words. Thanks for watching.
Very helpful video. Thanks!!
Thanks so much for sharing your method for doing this!!! You just saved us a lot of time and money by sharing. We are very grateful for your step by step process. Thank you again, so very much!!
You are welcome.
Good video. Explained simple and to-the-point,
Great demo. Thanks
Thank you, you cleared everything up.
Thanks for the info you've given me. I had a plumber come to the house to check out my system because no matter what I do, I can't get the air out of it. He looks at my 105 btu slant fin and tells me that because of the size of the house which is a 1928 sq ft colonial with 17- 57x 30 windows on the main level alone, I need a 140 btu boiler and he also says that my boiler wasn't piped properly. The system has 3 zones and they also used 1/2 inch pex with aluminum fin baseboards. The house has 4 levels including the basement which also has baseboards. The house has really never given adequate heat even if the thermostat is at 75. The boiler was installed around 2009 and I moved in 2010. The bedrooms are okay because I keep the door closed, but the main level is open concept and that's where I have the biggest problem. The house is located in nyc.
This video is very helpful, I don't have the zones, so the valve on the one side is already open but I do have the valve on the other side with the drain spicket so I guess I would close that and just connect the hose to that one, I had two guys come in because I wasn't getting heat on my upper levels and they quickly replaced the circulator pump , and it still wasn't working right and what they did was drain fromthe bottom valve at the bottom of the boiler and from looking at the pipes all that's doing is taking the fresh water that comes in going up past the tank and right out. not actually coming through the loop at all, so this video I believe will help me actually bleed the system properly
Excellent video - thank you.
Thanks johnny carson youre video was the best one of all the "bleeding air out" videos.
Thank you brother. Good video. Really helpful.
Great video. I have 3 zones, but only 1 water shutoff for all 3 zones. I see you have a shutoff for each one.
very nice video, everything explained as should be.. thanks
Very nice video, well done and explained very nice. Thanks.
thanks a lot, I wish I had saw this video a couple of years ago. Your set up was almost identical to mine so as soon as I bled the line, the heat came right on.
Vince Mahe You have to shut your system off prior to working on the line.
Your Hunting Buddy um, you can't just take a compliment? Where in my comment did you read that I didn't shut my system off?
Vince Mahe Vince, I love compliments. I misread your comment, I thought you were having problems with the burner turning on as you were trying to bleed the system. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I am glad the video helped.
Thanks for the video. I was hoping you could help me further. I don't have the lever to close the return water from a zone, but screws that need to be turned. Some of the screws have been stripped though so I cannot turn them. I have 10 zones total all returning to one spigot. My question to you is can I bleed all 10 zones at once or should I screw off a few returns and bleed a few lines (lines I can control return water and lines that have to stay open because of the stripped screw heads)? Thanks for your help.
Thank you great video
Your video saved me lots of money thanks.
Great! Thanks for watching!
THANK YOU..... my kitchen baseboard has not been working.... giving this a shot today.....
If I could actually successfully get the air out of one of the lines to my Amtrol (CRAP) water heater I will be thrilled..... spent hours getting burner to fire up after getting air out of oil line (ran out and threw 10gal of diesel in it until delivery) got the delivery and it somehow ended up with air in the oil line..... (ARGHHHHHHHH) Thankfully I worked for an oil company and am pretty good at repairing the majority of issues with my heating system..... but still learning as issues arise.... which is ALL the time in a 200 year old house (but new burner in 2012 after I kept my old on going for an additional 8 years) Had some scam oil company try to hack my 80 year old mom with Alzheimer's out of $11,000 for a whole new system) I saw the contract... called the dude to explain it to me... I played dumb blonde while he gave me his schpiel.... the issue problem my mom had called for only required a simple relief valve on the water heater which I bought and installed for under $85......!!!!! I'd rather learn and KNOW how everything in MY home works- especially after spending 13 years restoring the ENTIRE PLACE completely on my own (re-built decks, fixed caved in concrete pool, crown moulding, flooring, found some double hung windows while at the dump and replaced ALL the windows in the barn ... for FREE and even learned how to rebuild and install a new pool pump ........I hope I made my dad proud (he taught me most of what I know growing up here or I learned as I went along after renovating a house with my ex) I LOVE my home...it's my sanctuary and it's on the National Register of Historic Sites ..... !!!!!!
Sounds like you have your hands full. I hope the vid was able to help. Your dad should be proud. Thanks for the sub!
...does opening the automatic reducing valve, (to increase system pressure), at any time during the process help push any sediment along and into the bucket? What if I suspect sediment in the boiler tank & want to flush that out? Thanks for the informative video.
Thank you. This video its really help full
Thank you for fast response. I drained and refilled the system like you showed in video, but I still have no heat upstairs. basement heat works fine. pipe (for upstairs) right below zone valve is hot, but it's not getting enough hot after zone valve. I was thinking about bad zone valve, but when I removed zone valve and manually opened the pipe, still not getting hot enough. return pipe stays cold. No idea what could prevent hot water from circulate just upstairs when pump is working and pipe is open. pressure is around 14-15 psi. maybe something wrong with expansion tank. You did not show in video, but I drained it, as well.
David Mchedlishvili sounds like the water is not circulating past the zone valve. Try manually opening the zone valve to see if water circulates past the zone valve. You may have a bad zone valve. it may be time to call a plumber.
I have same problem with upstairs heat not working, but downstairs works fine, but I also don't have my zone valves next to the heater. Where are they then? inside the baseboards on each respective level? I'm also losing pressure over time, so I think my Pressure Reducing Valve might be stuck in the closed position. When I turn the screw down, the pressure sure goes up fast tho, which means it can be manually operated at least. If PRV fails to do its job, does it fail in the closed direction?
TenHanger x
Thank you for this information. I have a similar set up but have a few questions. Is there a way to face time/ Duo, my hvac guy is mia???
Thanks, this is very help full.
Kiki Lang Thanks for watching
Great video, thanks! My system runs the circulator in the opposite direction as yours and doesn't have any shutoff other than the zone valves. I was able to figure it out. I just had to have the courage to drain system pressure below 10 PSI and let the PRV kick on. I went through about 3-4 buckets on each zone to get all of the air out.
Next issue to tackle is the pressure. PRV kicked on at the right pressure and stopped flowing at 12-15psi. But, once the boiler fired up, pressure went to 30-40 psi, and that's where it's stayed.
Great! Thanks for watching.
Your pressure relief valve on a boiler should be rated at 30 psi. Your running pressure on your boiler should be between 12 to 18 pounds. If it's too high just open the drain valve and let a little water out until the pressure drops. If you're blowing the PRV then you better replace it and lower the running pressure of the boiler.
Looks like i am replacing my old red fill valve to the updated one you have. Nothing happens when I lift it up. Worked for 40+ years. Wasn't even aware it was broken until the air had to be purged out.
Thank you very much. Saved more than $500.
You are welcome!
Do you keep adding water to system after you open drain? I have like no pressure on gauge
Excellent!!!!. Thanks
Hey, great video I have a quick question. I don't have zone valves. I have these little circulator pumps. Is that an issue?
Can I still just follow the rest of your video? Thank you again. 1:38
Fabulously clear instructions. Thanks. When i went to do my 3-zone system i found that i don't have individual shut-offs by the drain valve or anywhere else.
??
Sometimes they install one shutoff for all your zones. Your three return lines should run into one line . That one line should have a shutoff for all 3 zones.
@@YourHuntingBuddy I'm finding i have different parts in design. House was built in 1978 and i have Taco T-220 Flochec for the zone valves and have to turn a thumbscrew to manually open. Still looking for zone water shut off. In any case, your video gave me the flow and now i just need to find the functionally equivalent parts. Thanks.
Thanks. This is a helpful video.
+Dick Rivers Thanks for watching.
excellent video start to finish, thanks. If your PRV doesn't open, you'd know it bc the pressure would keep going down, no?
Keep an eye on the gauge. You should be around 12 PSI. The only time that valve will open is if you exceed the pressure in the system. The prv should have the maximum pressure rating written on it.
Thanks for the video. I was stuck trying to figure out how to get the air out of my second floor radiators after draining the system I could not get heat. The only thing different is my return valves are located with the drain valves (not separate like yours). They look like a valve stem without the handle right below the drain valve. In my case the notch inline with the direction of the pipe is open and the notch perpendicular to the pipe is closed. No indication on the valve so it is was not obvious to me.
Let me start by saying: Thank you! this was a great video, and has helped me identify many of the parts within my heater system.
I encountered a small problem and hope I can get some advice... My house is very small and only has one zone valve, however, my zone valve does not have a switch. I even opened the box and all I saw was wiring that came from the thermostat and 2 more that go to the boiler and circulator. Definitely no switches in that box. any suggestions?
Thank in advanced.
Jherlyn Lopez You need zone valves when you have more than one zone and want to use one pump. Your one zone is controlled by turning on and off the pump and therefore you don't need a zone valve. When the temp trips your thermostat your pump goes on and it heats the one zone you have. Just shut off the water returning from the radiator and bleed the system the drain valve should be before the shut off. There are no zone valves to turn on so just skip that step.
when you shut the livingroom return valve, couldn't there be air in the pipe below it going into the boiler ? so are you bleeding air out of the whole circuit?...thanks
You have to bleed it out once zone at a time.
I have circulators (taco) instead of zone valves, or i'm having trouble finding my zone valves. How to I ensure the circulators are open to allow the water through when doing the same task?
Hi buddy, hope all is well. I bought a house with a broken base board heating system in the garage. I just install new base board and went to fill it up with water per your instructions. The only thing is it doesn’t have a zoning valve. And they connected a new pipe to the existing pipe for the garage to go the basement ( it’s the only pipe coming and going from the same base board). Can I still drain the air out. Or because there is no zoning valve I can’t. Thank you for the informative video.
Find the shutoff on the retun line. Follow the retun line it should be close to the unit. There should also be a drain near the furnace before you get to the shutoff. Attach a hose to the drain and open it slightly. You should see bubbles come out. The pressure reducing valve should automatically fill the line with new water and push out the air.
YOU did a ggeat job THANKS BOB
+Sara Cook You are welcome.
When my thermostat calls for heat and the boiler gets going is it normal to hear water flowing in the baseboards, or does that mean there is air in the lines ? Should I hear no water at all ? Thanks
Thanks for making this video. I have watched & took notes so that I may do this tonite. Now the questions if u dont'mind... I also have 3 zones like you but I'm not sure which line matches which? What's the easiest way to find out so that I can label them like u did. Also, I haven't turned the heat on yet, should I turn the system on first & let it run, then turn off broiler when I'm ready to purge... Or can I do the flush/purge before turning on the heat for the first time? How often should I be bleeding/change the water in the lines? -first time homeowner-jb
Turn they system on and listen for air in the lines. if you don't have air in your lines don't do anything and leave the system alone.
To find the zones locations, just lower all your thermostats so you don't have water circulating. Then turn one zone on at a time and feel which pipes get hot.
Great video. Can you explain why the air in the system is bad? Is it a sound issue? Are you losing heating efficiency? Thanks in advance.
Joanne Cho You lose efficiency and eventually the air will stop your system from circulating water.
What about automatic air vent caps position (on radiators upstairs) before and after drain the system?
When should I loose and close them?
Thanks
David Mchedlishvili leave them alone. you don't need to touch them.
very helpful thank you. I have the same set up as the one in your video three zone. But I am still unsure . The shutoff ball valve that is nearest the concrete wall like in your video will that line always be connected to first zone valve like in your video? Can I shut off all three shut off ball valve at once and just open one zone valve like you did in your video and bleed the system one zone at time with no problems ?
ED. JUSTINIANO You need to find the shutoff valve on the return line. You can close all three just make sure you are not closing the line feeding the line.
Great video thank you! Do I have to shut the boiler off and let it cool down or just shut it off?
Makes no difference than handling hot or warm water.
Youre my hero
Thanks for the video. I followed each step and it worked for 2 zones. The third and last zone when I open it it does not flow any water and I can hear a electo/mechanical click come from the back of the furnace. Any idea why the last is one would not flush when opened manually?
Sometimes the manual control slips into the closed position. May be a different drain than the first two zones. Was that zone added later?
It may have been added later. We bought the house after it had an addition put on. I opened the manual switch several times but never got water flowing out of the bleeder valve on that line. Each zone has its own bleeder and the first two worked exactly as shown but the last one did not. I think Ill take some pictures and post it on a forum or something.
I have lots of air in my pipe. It took me more long time to skim and seems never can take them out. I don't find any leaking in pipe anywhere. Please let me know what should I do
great video and easy to follow.
i drained 26 gallons of water and i was still seeing bubbles in the bucket. i have a small house and the pipes are still making a lot of noise. could air somehow continuously be introduced into the pipes?
Hello, I don't know if you solved your problem, but I drained about 35 gallons from my Boiler and stopped because I kept seeing bubbles too. Did you solve your problem?
Can you bleed the boiler with the circulating pump is on?
Thank you so much. I will try this tomorrow. Hope it works.
Good luck. Let me know if you were successful.
I had coolant put into my boiler system last year. Just recently I noticed how noisy the air is in the livingroom and hasn't been able to keep up with the heat demand. Is the process the same way for my system ? I also only have 1 spout for the air/water going into the buck with 4 zone valves. Should I turn off the water valves on each zone and leave 1 open at a time to purge ?
Thanks for your time.
To be honest with you I would call a service rep. Why did they use coolant?
Thanks man!
flipflopmojo1 You are welcome
when using an air separator wouldn't the air get used as air cushion in an expansion tank?
Thank you very much, this is very helpful! if I can have one question though,do I need to turn off the boiler to purge the air or I can just turn off the heating via the thermostat?
You need to turn the boiler off.
great video! trying to bleed my system per your instructions...only problem is my pressure reducing valve is not adjustable. When I open the valve the pressure goes to zero but I still get a stream of water and after 3-4 buckets still have bubbles. Am I wasting my time?
I don't think you are wasting your time. don't open your valve all the way. Open it slightly so you don't reduce the pressure to zero. Run the zone again to see if you have air in your line.
I left the furnace on. I had a faulty bleeder valve that let a bunch of air into the system. I replaced the bleeder valve and decided to bleed because I could hear the noisy pipes. I couldn't get it to bleed well at all. I have a hot water storage tank and all the water that came out is full of rusty water.
I had a repair person come in . I did what you directed me to do and the repair person did the same thing, which was great. We both had trouble bleeding the system. The repair man came to the conclusion that the water pressure regulator is malfunctioning by delivering only 8-10lbs pressure. When he flipped the switch on the regulator, there was no change in pressure. He had to manipulate the pressure value to get it to temporarily output 12-15lbs pressure and was finally able to bleed the system. The pressure valve and backflow preventer are in a 12" long section of pipe. I have to hire a plumber to do the work since the line pressure is probably 60 or more psi.
I did what you did but I still had air in my second-floor heater.Still had to bleed the base heater.
I tested by switching 2 zone valves (one zone valve works for basement) but still no circulation. I even removed zone valve and manually opened pipe. still nothing. Could be more air in radiators? I drained 8-10 big buckets of water (like you did in this video).
It's hard to tell what the issue is on the internet. If our zone valves are fine it may be your pump or a frozen line. You just may have to call a pro.
No shut off my loops. I'm guessing the Zone valve is the shut of for my system since it's right after the drain valve.
Should we turn off the thermostat before doing all this?
Great Video....Question for you regarding my setup. My zone valves are on the return and right above the zone valves i have my spicket . I don't see a handle to stop the water from going back into the boiler like you have. Does that mean I just leave my zone valve closed and open up the spicket with a hose attached. I have an automatic fill so the water should just continue to flow until i close the spicket correct ?
No you need the zone valves open so you can replace the water as it exits. Otherwise you will have more air entering your system. You need to find the shut off in order to make this work.
I see your rational. It makes sense and may work but I really need to see your system in order to give you any good advise.
I did this method last week and was able to get rid of water sound in the pipes but now i have a rattling noise only when the heat is on i'm guessing that is just the pipe expanding in the baseboards. I was going to bleed it out again but wanted to make sure I'm bleeding my system the right way. Thanks for replying so quickly! I can try to post a video of my system and provide a link so you can see
Rattling is pipe expansion. Swooshing noise is air. Thanks for watching.
Very nice informative video! I did this and I noticed that my Boiler pressure is at about 30 psi. What is the best way to bring the psi down? Would it be the pressure relief valve ? I keep seeing videos where plumbers say that tripping the valve causes it to leak.
Don't touch the relief valve. It will leak. Just open the drain a little and the pressure sould regilate buy itself. If it does not then your automatic reducing valve may need replacing.
@@YourHuntingBuddy Thanks for the quick reply, because I was gonna roll the dice and give it a shot right after breakfast. Thanks to you, I'm not gonna do that. I wish I saw this video before I tried to take the air out of the system, because the other videos I came across didn't give all the details such as watching the boiler pressure.
@@YourHuntingBuddyThanks, just did it and it worked like a charm. I removed about a gallon of water while watching the gauge go down. I stopped at about 15 psi, because I wanted to ask if that's enough pressure for a single family house that has baseboards in the basement, 1st floor, 2nd floor and the attic with 3 zones. I actually feel that who ever installed the baseboards ran the loops too long because I feel like the heat output could be better and I see a ton of baseboards.
The last time my safety valve went off, my pressure gauge got some humidity steam water in it. The gas man told me it would eventually dry out, it's been a couple of week and it still has water in it. He said it couldn't be screwed off to be replaced. I need to purge my system again because of air, can I still do it not knowing how much pressure I really have because of the pressure gauge having moisture in it? Thanks.
Don't use the manual override on the reducing valve to feed the system and you should be ok. The reducing valve should automatically keep the correct pressure.
Thanks, I was a little leery, but, it worked fine. Thanks for your advise.