I have done some silicon bronze mig work and it works well, I refurbished a barbeque grill with it and it turned better than I expected. Good video on the uses of this process.
It is rediculous how much better the copper between the contact and surface trick improves things. I put a copper scouring pad under my clamp and mig welding in general has a super smooth feel now, but when I'm welding stainless sheet metal I'm not getting the annoying wire popping when tacking seams that throws spatter and what spatter I get when welding stainless usually comes off easy instead of needing a smack with a chisel and hammer. The reduction in clean up alone has made things look better and sped things up, thank you so much for that tip
Pieshka, thank you so much for the comment....makes me feel great to share the knowledge, I have to credit Jody Collier for teaching me this over 12 years ago....best wishes, Paul Brown
@@ypaulbrown my co-welder with 20 years of experience that used to build ships in Peru gave me a funny look when he asked about the copper pan scrubber, now he's got one under his clamp as well. For once I can't wait to have an aluminum job come through to see the difference. Thank you for spreading the knowledge
@@pieshka4509 this fantastic.....you have made my day again by letting me know this, let us know how your coworker likes the modification......where are you located.....best wishes from Florida, Paul '
@@ypaulbrown besides welding galvanized having smoother welds, he really likes that wire doesn't pop several times and splatter onto the metal when tacking stainless, especially now that we have a lightweld. We are air duct welders in Maryland.
@@pieshka4509 that is great, I welded alot of galvanized 16 gauge grease ducts, indoors and on roofs with MIG....really poor fits and crazy connections, not to mention the hard to get to places, like a 24 inch weld one inch off a wall....ten feet up.......keep checking out our other videos, appreciate the comments, Paul
Paul, I know this took some research and advance scripting, but I think it was worth your trouble. A good and informative episode, and interesting to watch. I like the explanation of brazing as similar to a glue joint, and I think that's exactly right: Something that sticks to the two surfaces and hardens. Doesn't have to melt the two base materials and so they don't have to be compatible. As for zinc, I think I'll continue to just grind the stuff off of the weld area first. I don't have confidence in my skill at keeping the temperatures down, and really want to stay away from those fumes!
BenZ, zinc fumes have a worse reputation than they deserve in my 20 plus years of welding experience, I have never been bothered by welding on zinc, other than the nasty welds it tends to produce, I am sure if you are in a poorly ventilated area, keeping your head in the plumes, you will suffer from Metal Fume Fever......I am not condoning not wearing breathing protection, we just did not use for this episode, due to the limited galvanized welding we did. this episode was about Silicon Bronze and not about welding on zinc coated material...... Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
Never used it in a mig. I saw it on a garage door installation. The gold beads connecting the brackets to the track was hard for a welder to miss. Many years ago we used Everdoer silicon bronze rod to connect light gage galv, as thin as 22 ga., duct pipe in granaries for dust collection. Installed in place, out of position with cabon arc pencils in a stick welding leed. Good times.
@@craigkeller Bob is teaching college full time in his normal job, long time job he held that job while being a host here. He is still around and doing great......hope this helps answer the mystery.....Paul
Hi Samuel: Thanks so much for commenting and watching.... Our goal at weld.com is to inform and share our experience......both good and bad......Glad you liked, Paul 'Paulie' Brown
We use this in the auto body field to "weld" the seams on quater panels because of heat destoren and it is recommended by some manufacturers for a Certified repair.
Justin, I really appreciate that.....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
thank you for a great video that was easy to understand and explain the advantages of welding dissimilar metals ! I am interested in welding up custom single point cutting tools for on the lathe and this gives me a bit of how to get my feet wet to get set up !!
really appreciate that the family......that is what we are trying to show, something new and not that much heard of, thanks for watching and especially commenting, it makes it all worthwhile for me and the production crew......our director, camera man, and editor all appreciate your comments too, and they are only one person....haha.....give a shout out to Andrew for the great work he does......he makes my life easy....and makes me look much better than I do in real life........Bless his soul......thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
I’m going to try that grounding trick. We do structural stuff at work, big long electrical poles. The ground is often 20 feet away and gets quite hot. We run 0.052 metal core wire. 👍🏼
Tom, you well be really surprised how much it helps....I know I was, you can thank Jody Collier from welding tips and tricks for that info.....save my bacon where I used to work....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
Good video and this is the only video that I have found that gives the mig parameters which is surprising since this appears to be a really useful process. This could reduce the need for painting when using galvanized metal which could save a lot of time and effort.
This video was good to see. I've done just a little TIG brazing (Everlast 210EXT), and the more I do with Silicon Bronze, the more I like it. But using it with MIG really gets me thinking, especially if I would ever want to use it with a low-priced 120V MIG unit (i.e., 220V not really required for that lower amperage), like that new Everlast Cyclone 140E, since I already keep a couple of large argon tanks on hand.
in automotive ultra high strength repairs such as some rails or pillars they have you drill two holes and create a ring instead of plug welding. there's a good icar class on brazing techniques . great vid, don't see a whole lot about this in the community
sounds like a good idea, I personally have not used Aluminum Bronze, and the few times I have tried to purchase, the suppliers have not carried it due to lack of demand in my area of Orlando. My friend who repairs antique sculptures uses it a lot.......I have used Low Fuming Bronze rod with oxy/fuel for a lot of brazing of cast and mild steel......and it can be very sluggish......Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
mo, thanks for that.....I have not tried, some others were wondering about adding co2, I will have to try.....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
that is a good question, yes, strength testing can be done, but the Lab does not have the specialized equipment to show the exact tensile strength....we may be able to bash with a sledge hammer and see what it takes to bend/break .......
user, you got that right.....as there is an oxide on many materials....I use AC sometimes with copper or brass to get the cleaning action too....thanks for watching, Paulie Brown
Bill, I personally have not tried this, but that is an interesting question, if it did work, it would surly be a weak braze.....depending on what you are trying to do, it may be a viable technique.....I think I will try at the shop and see what happens...I will try and get back to you and see if it does work.....Paul
I do a bit of silicon mig on duragal security door. Works quite well just have to remember to move slower to avoid underfill. I may have missed it in the video, but should warn people that silicon bronze is pretty nasty stuff. I mean should wear ppe for all welding but especially silicon bronze should have a mask on and as much ventilation as you can get!
This is from the Harris Products MSDS, you may have noticed I mention not wearing a respirator due to the good ventilation we have at the studio, and also keeping my head out of the fume plume, [2 Hazard(s) identification Classified according to the criteria of the Globally Harmonized System of Classification and Labeling of Chemicals (GHS), OSHA Hazard Communication Standard (29 CFR 1910.1200) and the Canadian Controlled Products Regulations. · Classification of the substance or mixture The product is not classified as hazardous according to the Globally Harmonized System (GHS).
· Additional information: There are no other hazards not otherwise classified that have been identified. 0 % of the mixture consists of component(s) of unknown toxicity] you may be confusing Silicon Bronze with Beryllium Copper, which is very hazardous Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
@@ypaulbrown I saw that lead may be in the compound. That would normally be a hazard along with the zinc. Better safe than sorry. ps we used it without PPE for decades but that was then. We know better now.
christian, we did not have the time to bend, but yes, they are weaker, as they are not 'fusion welds' they are braze welds.....which rely on the surface tension of the materials for their bond strength... I would like to have a lab to test them in for sure.....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
I know for welding, using the 100% gas will change the bead width etc. but it will work. But for brazing I worry the CO2 would make the metal oxidize slightly under the arc and not wet into eachother
hey guys, I honestly have never tried to us ar/co2 mix, only argon.....the co2 could cause issues with too much heat.....give it a try and see what happens.....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
Brian, it is amazing how little heat was put into the stainless, I was very surprised myself.......especially for how big the bead was, I have done alot of TIG Silicon Bronze on stainless 18 gauge making parts for food trucks, it is much easier than stainless filler as far as reducing warpage, Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
good question, Aluminum Bronze is stronger, this is from the ESAB handbook, 3. DEOXIDIZED COPPER(a) Unlike electrolytic copper, this grade does not contain enough oxygen to cause oxide embrittlement orporosity if reasonable care is exercised during welding operations. Also, little change in electrical resistanceoccurs across the joint. Deoxidized copper is the type most widely used for fabrication by welding. The tensile strength of a good, sound weld is about 30,000 psi.(b) Welding Technique: Workpieces thicker than 1/4 inch should be preheated to approximately 300-500degrees F. prior to welding. A forehand welding technique will produce the best results. Flux is required forthick sections, and must be applied to both the area being welded and the rod.(c) Welding Conditions - See Chart on Page 14.4. COPPER-SILICON ALLOYS (”EVERDUR”, ”HERCULOY”, ETC.)(a) General: Excellent welds are made in these alloys without requiring flux. Plates up to 1/4 inch thick aregenerally prepared with a square edge. Forehand welding technique with DCSP is generally recommendedfor materials thicker than 0.05 in. On lighter material, ACHF should be used for best weld results. Where welding rod is required, ERCuSi-A Silicon Bronze Rod is recommended.5. ALUMINUM BRONZE(a) General: No flux is required; ACHF will produce the best weld results; a forehand welding technique,with an aluminum bronze rod should be used. Aluminum bronze rod also provides good wear-resistance surfaces when deposited on steel, cast iron, copper, and other metals. this is from wikipedia.... Aluminium bronzes are most valued for their higher strength and corrosion resistance as compared to other bronze alloys. These alloys are tarnish-resistant and show low rates of corrosion in atmospheric conditions, low oxidation rates at high temperatures, and low reactivity with sulfurous compounds and other exhaust products of combustion. They are also resistant to corrosion in sea water. Aluminium bronzes' resistance to corrosion results from the aluminium in the alloys, which reacts with atmospheric oxygen to form a thin, tough surface layer of alumina (aluminium oxide) which acts as a barrier to corrosion of the copper-rich alloy. The addition of tin can improve corrosion resistance.[1] Another notable property of aluminium bronzes are their biostatic effects. The copper component of the alloy prevents colonization by marine organisms including algae, lichens, barnacles, and mussels, and therefore can be preferable to stainless steel or other non-cupric alloys in applications where such colonization would be unwanted. Aluminium bronzes tend to have a golden color.🧑🏭🧑🔧🛳🚢
Aluminum bronze is significantly stronger and the weld has more of a shiny gold color. Because of the aluminum, it's usually welded with AC rather than DC. I believe it has higher elongation before failure. I've used both, but only with the TIG process. Both are good for brazing, and thus for connecting dissimilar materials or when you want to keep temperatures and heat input down. Some people favor pulsing when brazing with these two fillers, and that is somewhat more typical of TIG than MIG machines.
@@benz-share9058 thanks for responding, that is some great information. When running these alloys with MIG [GMAW OR MAG] you are welding with 100% DC electrode positive so you have maximum cleaning action with the argon gas, so there is no reason to run with AC, and MIG is not known for running very well with AC, at least in the information I have read. Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
I have to say you nailed it for sure. Covered all points on the topic at hand. There's a saying "Paul you are the man." Look forward to see more great videos on RUclips. One comment I can think of, the grounding trick is great, I prefer to use a c-clamp grounding clamp. Well done and peace too.
I also use a C Clamp ground[work] clamp when I can, but the table in the studio would hide it and I wanted to show that great MIG grounding technique......it really does make a big differance.....and it works great for TIG and Stick......just a short piece of welding lead....will last for years, you can even use a copper Brillo [Scrub] pad......glad you liked, Paul
Great video. I didn’t know this type of welding/ brazing existed, even though I think I’ve seen some of this welding on material over the years but didn’t know what it was. I’m going to get into using this because as you pointed out with thin metal it doesn’t warp. All I have to do is get some argon gas and some wire. I’ve always struggled with thin metal warpage over the years and for a lot of projects at home this would be the preferred process to use. This is a real game changer for me. If anyone is wondering why I’ve not heard of this I’m a retired heavy duty diesel mechanic and I’m used to welding 1 inch plate steel 🤪🤪🤪🤪👍
thanks for the comment Joel, so glad for you to get something out of this.......It is different for sure compared to welding steel, the puddle is sluggish, like bubble gum.....I think you will have no problem using, a 2 lb spool is about 30 bucks......not really much more than stainless wire......let me know how you do, best wishes' and thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
@@ypaulbrown that video blow me away ; I didn’t know that existed basically I travel in different circles. It got the wheels turning in my head. I’m retired but at home I do a lot of projects that use thin metal and have always struggled with metal warp age because of heat.that video opened up all new avenues for me. That brazing technique/ welding would produce welds plenty strong enough for what I need. I was looking into the cost of the wire and I figured it would be spindly and it is. I’m going to buy a 10lb spool and the cost is around 225.00 or so. But if I’m plan on using a lot of it , in the long run it’s cheaper. Also I need to get a couple of 150ci-tanks if argon gas, I have some tanks already that I can trade out. I need the argon because I also have a tig welder that I haven’t used yet. So I figure my initial buy in cost to get rolling is around 500.00 dollars. So thanks again for the video👍👍
@@MrMopar413 I would start out with a 2lb spool, about 30 bucks I think......you can also use it for tigging small stuff......so save your clipped wires if you have any.....if you have any questions we can help with, please reach out.......thanks for the great comment......and best wishes in you welding endeavor ....you can post pictures on the forum there too, Sincerely, Paul Brown, the old geezer that is welding......
Aaron, a spool gun is perfect for Silicon Bronze use.....I think we mentioned that when we taped the episode, but it ended up on the cutting room floor. the only difference I noticed using in a spool gun, is the extra weight of the silicon bronze , one extra pound compared to aluminum.......spool guns are not limited to aluminum use, you can run anything in them, flux core, steel, stainless, nickel , hastaloy, copper, and the advantage is you can get further from your machine if you have the longer lead.....great question Aaron, Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
Don, yes you could weld cast iron, aluminum bronze would be better though, you would still have to preheat the cast iron to at least 350 F degrees, and 5 to 6 hundred would be better with a slow cool down, there are some good videos on the channel on welding cast iron, one was posted last week actually, thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
thanks for posting this, I have a project that requires joining some tool steel and this might be the trick. Do you think a spool gun would work ok and avoid any need for a low friction liner? I realize you didn't change your liner and didn't have a problem - going commando ha ha - but you mentioned it as a possible issue to prevent birds nest.
hey Robert, sorry for taking so long to get back to you....I hope your project came out ok, I have used silicon bronze in a tool gun many times.....with no issue.....it is a heavier wire, so that is the only divergence, as the extra pound is a little noticeable.....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
Average mild steel on a car. How strong would the silicone bronze brazing be compared to a standard weld? Would you be able to cut and replace a wheel arch?
Average mild steel has not been used in many years on cars or trucks, it is HSLA, high strength low alloy.....the problem with doing a fusion weld is the amount of heat put into the base metal degrading the strength of the HSLA. that is why most manufacturers require silicon bronze repairs. the manufacturers use resistance welds for many of their welds, which put very little heat into the material, but repair shops do not have the equipment needed to do the same thing. The worst thing you can do with body repair is use an Oxy/fuel weld or braze as the amount of heat is immense, that was the old way back in the 1920's to the 1960's.....GMAW [mig/mag] replaced oxy/fuel.....everything has changed these days, hope this helps, as far as strength, I will have to assume it is as strong as the original factory welds, When I worked for Volvo Trucks North America [1990- 2002] I learned about adhesive fastening research done by GM, Volvo was their partner back then, that showed adhesive fastening was stronger than welding....and the FAA allows it for aircraft repair and building.......not some type of glue you can get at the hardware store, but it is available from auto body supply outlets......hope this helps, Paul
@@ypaulbrown Paul, massive thank you for taking the time to provide such a detailed comment. It's truly appreciated. I'll remember this information for life, thank you again!
hey fteve , from the grocery store......in the dishwashing section, hope this helps....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
Kowboy, yes, you can use for cast iron brazing, make sure to preheat the cast iron to at least 350 degrees F, and 5 to 6 hundred is better, slow kool it...check out some of the cast iron videos on the site, one was posted last week....... cheers, Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
Hello, I'm welding 20 ga cold rolled sheet metal body panels. I typically use a copper spoon behind my joints as a heat soak, what material can I use as a backer when using silicon bronze rod since it adheres to so many materials ? Thanks, VinceWheels
hey Vince, well, you could use aluminum, but are you burning through the base, if not, your copper spoon is fine....or a piece of copper.....remember, we are melting the silicon bronze, but not the base.....20 ga is thin stuff, so get in and get out fast....probably not good to try and do in one shot....do small areas....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
all the above, it depends on the area you live and if you want to travel .......learn all the types of welding, and keep practicing them all so you are proficient.......hope this helps, Paul
Hi jack60, I feel it certainly would be a good way to reduce warpage, I am not a Body repair guy, but have done a small amount of it.... and warpage due to the heat input can drive you nuts. You are protecting the strength of the HSLA steel and reducing that heat that can cause warping.....as with anything, always do some tests and see if you get a better result,,,,,,I hope this helps answer your question. Thanks for commenting and watching.....best wishes, Paul 'Paulie' Brown from Weld.com
Great video, but disappointed you didn't do any break tests on your coupons. Whenever I've tried this with TIG it's the braze metal that breaks. It never comes unstuck from the base metal. And it's usually very strong but not quite as strong as a weld.
Ben, we did have the cut and polish, we did a break test but it was edited out of final cut, it ended up just bending.....Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
Ben, were you using silicon bronze to braze with? depending on the filler, Aluminum Bronze, Silicon Bronze or low fuming bronze, you will have different strengths......Silicon Bronze can have varying strengths up to 51,000 ksi....depending on the exact alloy, hope this helps, Paul
@@ypaulbrown Yes Silicon Bronze TIG. Sifsilcopper-968 which is basically the standard rod for that in the UK. I think Al Bronze is meant to be a bit stronger but I've never tried it (I only have a DC machine). Those low fuming things I think are meant for use with a gas torch and some of them are even stronger.
Mid, , we did have the cut and polish, we did a break test but it was edited out of final cut, it ended up just bending.....Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
Jerry, .035 or .030......but I am guessing here, as I do not work with auto body materials.....I hope this helps......remember, the silicon bronze is belting at a much lower temp, [1,900 for so] than steel at 2,850 or so....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
not as cold as you think, the filler is laying on top of the base metal, not melting into it, the idea of using silicon bronze is to not melt the base. Thanks for commenting and viewing.....Paul
@1:38 you seriously need to adjust your parameters, that over-roll on the bottom side of the fillet is no good at all. Also, the galv was burning off, could see the arc changing colour, and fumes coming off.
good point, K F, since it is an adhesive weld and not a fusion weld, the weld size is much larger and is still stronger than the base material. Unfortunately, we only had enough time to do one take and setup in the studio that day......next time, we will make sure to not have any overlap, Thanks for commenting and viewing.....Paul
the color of arc is due to the 95% copper which gives it a green arc. as far as the zinc burning off, there is some zinc in the filler wire and zinc boils at 1,665 degrees f or 907 C, not all the zinc is vaporizing, even when doing a fusion weld with steel filler, there is some zinc co-mingled in the weld pool to give the weld galvanic protection. all welding will have some fumes coming off, when working with an arc that is 10,000 degrees, something is going to smoke.....hope this helps, Paul
I wonder if you could do this to join aluminum to Copper? Right now lithium battery terminals are welded using lasers which is out of reach of normal people. All lithium batteries have an aluminum terminal and a copper terminal. If this works to join the aluminum tabs of one cell to the Copper tabs of the next cell this could revolutionize home built battery packs.
The white smoke is not the zinc "boiling off", it is the zinc being oxidized to zinc oxide. It is an extremely fine powder and if inhaled can damage the lungs. It is also white in color. The white powder is seen on the back side as it became hot enough to be oxidized. I have done a lot of silicon bronze brazing using an oxy acetylene or a MAPP torch depending on the size of the parts. I wasn't aware that a silicon bronze MIG wire was available. Knowing that thin parts can be brazed without significant distortion will open up a number of opportunities for me.
Paul, in an argon environment ,there should be no oxygen to oxidize the zinc, the boiling temp of zinc is 1,665 f, the arc is over 8,000 f....the zinc is boiling off....I am not a chemist, and I may be wrong, so feel free to correct me if you can find some data,,,,,thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....hope you can use to your advantage.....
Interesting process, but I’ll stick with TIG brazing. I can see how it would be a good process for auto body work where large areas to be brazed and the fact that it’s going to be ground down and finished make it more efficient. However TIG brazing leaves a much nicer looking bead and doesn’t take that much longer.
well, how many weld demos do you see bend break tests done? If all those car manufacturers are requiring it, it should be strong right, maybe next time we can break some metal, we just had not planned it for this video, sorry, we will try to break something in the future, and yes, the process does seem to have spatter, at least in the 20 pounds I have run of Silicon Bronze, thanks for commenting, Paul
Thanks for commenting and viewing.....you could always come back over with a tig torch to beautify, sometimes it is very difficult to tig due to the placement of weld, TIG also puts a lot more heat into the base material that mig does not.....hope this helps, Paul
@@ypaulbrown Of course! I forgot that MIG is electrode-positive (I pretty much only use TIG) and so the vast majority of the heat goes to melting the electrode. Benefit is less heat to the base material, but that lower heat may be why a little extra voltage is needed for MIG to cause the puddle to fully wet to the base material.
@@benz-share9058 you get the idea....most mig needs more voltage anyway.....tig is usually 10 to 12 volts for thin material.....mig would be in the 16 volt range.....thanks for the comment, Paul
shako, to be honest, I do not know if it would work.....something to try....but with all the oxides involved, argon has been the way it have used in a maw [mig] setup.....when tigging, it is only argon, unless you want to had some helium which is very expensive....hope this helps, thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
Did everyone miss the garbage that them beads looked like. Cold lap all over those joints. I was considering going mig braze until I saw this video. I'll stick with torch or tig.
11:32 "did you see a lot of smoke coming off of that?" "oh yeah!" loll BZZZZT wrong answer If the brazing doesnt remove the zinc galva then it means that the brazing is only stuck to the galvanized layer and not the base metal So?
Aidan, nobody is as good as Bob Moffatt......thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
Don’t mean to sound rude, but all of those welds show poor wetting out and look like crap. I think a person would be better off using another brazing technique imho.
hey Mike, the silicon bronze is rather sluggish and has problems wetting out.....you are correct saying they look like crap, but they do hold the material together. they might have been better looking if we had run a tig torch over them.....there were no second takes while shooting the video and that would have helped in my opinion also as we did not take the time to do any testing due to scheduling. and just gave it a go......the idea was to show how GMAW [MIG/MAG] welding can be done and what it is used for. With a little practice before hand and setting the parameters, we would have had much prettier welds......thanks for watching and commenting, if you learned anything by the video, it was a success ....best regards, Paul Brown
As nouns the difference between silicium and silicon is that silicium is (obsolete) the non-metallic chemical element silicon while silicon is (chemistry) a nonmetallic element (symbol si) with an atomic number of 14 and atomic weight of 280855.
@@ypaulbrown You are right, I had the wrong idea that for the elements some international standard for the nomenclature existed. It seams however that every language uses its own names.
this is not a true "welding" process... it is more like a strong glue to hold parts together. it does hold pretty well, but it is not fused to the base metal. but having used this filler to tig holes in auto body sheet metal. it does look good too 😁👍
thanks for the comment, you might have noticed I mentioned it is like a glue joint, maybe you did not watch that far in, you do have the right idea on how it works though.....some braze joints can be stronger that the base steel, even though they are not a fusion joint. hope this helps, Paul
1. America hasn’t fully adopted the metric system yet… … but believe me, we’re slowly inching towards it. 2. Why will the American people never convert to the metric system? Because they'll never accept a foreign ruler. 3. There are two type of countries. Those that use the metric system and those that have been to the moon.
Get somebody that can actually run a fluid acceptable mig braze! There was only one that had an acceptable toe. Nobody would consider this process after viewing this example. Poor content.
1:35 “Look at this great gold bead.” This weld is rolled as all hell. Are rolled beads unavoidable since we are not melting the base metal? Or, can a faster travel and adjusted torch angle result in a more traditional “great” bead?
email, the silicon bronze is very sluggish, like pushing bubble gum.....with some more testing , we were able to get some better flatter welds, but like you said, you are not fusing with the base, just laying bronze on top of what ever you are joining,,, like an epoxy glue....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
I have done some silicon bronze mig work and it works well, I refurbished a barbeque grill with it and it turned better than I expected. Good video on the uses of this process.
Thanks for commenting and viewing.....Paul
Thanks for watching!
It is rediculous how much better the copper between the contact and surface trick improves things. I put a copper scouring pad under my clamp and mig welding in general has a super smooth feel now, but when I'm welding stainless sheet metal I'm not getting the annoying wire popping when tacking seams that throws spatter and what spatter I get when welding stainless usually comes off easy instead of needing a smack with a chisel and hammer. The reduction in clean up alone has made things look better and sped things up, thank you so much for that tip
Pieshka, thank you so much for the comment....makes me feel great to share the knowledge, I have to credit Jody Collier for teaching me this over 12 years ago....best wishes, Paul Brown
@@ypaulbrown my co-welder with 20 years of experience that used to build ships in Peru gave me a funny look when he asked about the copper pan scrubber, now he's got one under his clamp as well. For once I can't wait to have an aluminum job come through to see the difference.
Thank you for spreading the knowledge
@@pieshka4509 this fantastic.....you have made my day again by letting me know this, let us know how your coworker likes the modification......where are you located.....best wishes from Florida, Paul '
@@ypaulbrown besides welding galvanized having smoother welds, he really likes that wire doesn't pop several times and splatter onto the metal when tacking stainless, especially now that we have a lightweld. We are air duct welders in Maryland.
@@pieshka4509 that is great, I welded alot of galvanized 16 gauge grease ducts, indoors and on roofs with MIG....really poor fits and crazy connections, not to mention the hard to get to places, like a 24 inch weld one inch off a wall....ten feet up.......keep checking out our other videos, appreciate the comments, Paul
Paul, I know this took some research and advance scripting, but I think it was worth your trouble. A good and informative episode, and interesting to watch. I like the explanation of brazing as similar to a glue joint, and I think that's exactly right: Something that sticks to the two surfaces and hardens. Doesn't have to melt the two base materials and so they don't have to be compatible. As for zinc, I think I'll continue to just grind the stuff off of the weld area first. I don't have confidence in my skill at keeping the temperatures down, and really want to stay away from those fumes!
BenZ, zinc fumes have a worse reputation than they deserve in my 20 plus years of welding experience, I have never been bothered by welding on zinc, other than the nasty welds it tends to produce, I am sure if you are in a poorly ventilated area, keeping your head in the plumes, you will suffer from Metal Fume Fever......I am not condoning not wearing breathing protection, we just did not use for this episode, due to the limited galvanized welding we did. this episode was about Silicon Bronze and not about welding on zinc coated material...... Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
Never used it in a mig. I saw it on a garage door installation. The gold beads connecting the brackets to the track was hard for a welder to miss. Many years ago we used Everdoer silicon bronze rod to connect light gage galv, as thin as 22 ga., duct pipe in granaries for dust collection. Installed in place, out of position with cabon arc pencils in a stick welding leed. Good times.
Carl, that does sound interesting....CAW, Carbon Arc Welding.......the predecessor of TIG
Best video you guys have put out since Bob left.
Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
What happened to Bob? I missed that
@@craigkeller Bob is teaching college full time in his normal job, long time job he held that job while being a host here. He is still around and doing great......hope this helps answer the mystery.....Paul
Absolutely love this video ! I love the additional backstory information and Andrew did a great job editing. Love to see more from you Paul!
thanks so much Shawn....cheers.....Paul
Great video, thanks for the info! The more I learn, the more I know I need to learn more.
Hi Samuel: Thanks so much for commenting and watching....
Our goal at weld.com is to inform and share our
experience......both good and bad......Glad you liked,
Paul 'Paulie' Brown
We use this in the auto body field to "weld" the seams on quater panels because of heat destoren and it is recommended by some manufacturers for a Certified repair.
you got that right.....thanks for commenting and viewing.....Paul
This is a great tutorial! No bs full of knowledge . Well done!
Justin, I really appreciate that.....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
thank you for a great video that was easy to understand and explain the advantages of welding dissimilar metals ! I am interested in welding up custom single point cutting tools for on the lathe and this gives me a bit of how to get my feet wet to get set up !!
thank you so much Joe, cheers from weld.com, Paulie Brown
Man I learn something new every time I watch this channel. Thx again fellas peace
really appreciate that the family......that is what we are trying to show, something new and not that much heard of, thanks for watching and especially commenting, it makes it all worthwhile for me and the production crew......our director, camera man, and editor all appreciate your comments too, and they are only one person....haha.....give a shout out to Andrew for the great work he does......he makes my life easy....and makes me look much better than I do in real life........Bless his soul......thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
I’m going to try that grounding trick. We do structural stuff at work, big long electrical poles. The ground is often 20 feet away and gets quite hot. We run 0.052 metal core wire. 👍🏼
Tom, you well be really surprised how much it helps....I know I was, you can thank Jody Collier from welding tips and tricks for that info.....save my bacon where I used to work....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
Good video and this is the only video that I have found that gives the mig parameters which is surprising since this appears to be a really useful process. This could reduce the need for painting when using galvanized metal which could save a lot of time and effort.
thanks for watching and commenting, I always try to give the information needed to help get viewers started,
best wishes, Paul Paulie Brown
This video was good to see. I've done just a little TIG brazing (Everlast 210EXT), and the more I do with Silicon Bronze, the more I like it. But using it with MIG really gets me thinking, especially if I would ever want to use it with a low-priced 120V MIG unit (i.e., 220V not really required for that lower amperage), like that new Everlast Cyclone 140E, since I already keep a couple of large argon tanks on hand.
Thanks for watching and commenting, we really appreciate that.....Paul Brown
Never heard of such process. This could be very useful!
Thanks for commenting and viewing.....Paul
Great video Paul! Can’t wait to try out that copper wire ground trick!
Fusin, you will love the copper wire technique, Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
Right!? That was a good tip.
in automotive ultra high strength repairs such as some rails or pillars they have you drill two holes and create a ring instead of plug welding. there's a good icar class on brazing techniques . great vid, don't see a whole lot about this in the community
hey roller rob, thanks for the view and comment and the support, best wishes, Paul
How about a silicon bronze vs aluminum bronze video, why and when would you use each and what are the pros and cons of each?
sounds like a good idea, I personally have not used Aluminum Bronze, and the few times I have tried to purchase, the suppliers have not carried it due to lack of demand in my area of Orlando. My friend who repairs antique sculptures uses it a lot.......I have used Low Fuming Bronze rod with oxy/fuel for a lot of brazing of cast and mild steel......and it can be very sluggish......Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
Thank you for your time today!!!
glad you liked, hope you got something from this, cheers, Paul Brown
Awesome video, answered every question I could have thought to ask!
Thank you
It's a good process for strong bonding, it's not welding but its pretty strong for most non-structural applications.
billy, thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
verry well explained, thumbs up ; ) i am using 98 % Argon and 2 % Co for MIG brazing, (less spatter) keep welding
mo, thanks for that.....I have not tried, some others were wondering about adding co2, I will have to try.....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
great video! never heard of this till now!!
glad you liked old timer......they use a lot of this at the sewer plant......cheers, Paul
Hadn’t even heard of mig brazing. Very good intro. 👍
Thanks, I’ve been wanting to learn more. Good filtered video shots!
really appreciate that, cheers, Paul
Would it be possible to do some strength testing with this to show how strong the bond is.
that is a good question, yes, strength testing can be done, but the Lab does not have the specialized equipment to show the exact tensile strength....we may be able to bash with a sledge hammer and see what it takes to bend/break .......
@@ypaulbrown perfect exactly what I was thinking.
DC electrode positive so you have maximum cleaning action with the argon gas
user, you got that right.....as there is an oxide on many materials....I use AC sometimes
with copper or brass to get the cleaning action too....thanks for watching, Paulie Brown
Can this be used on aluminum?
Bill, I personally have not tried this, but that is an interesting question, if it did work, it would surly be a weak braze.....depending on what you are trying to do, it may be a viable technique.....I think I will try at the shop and see what happens...I will try and get back to you and see if it does work.....Paul
Did it work with aluminium?
Note to self: Stock up on copper wire for excellent ground. ✅
een a copper Brillo pad [dish scrub pad] will work great.....for TIG and Stick
Or a copper scouring pad. I have one in my clamp and the mig machine performance improvement on stainless alone was beyond worth the $3
@@pieshka4509 outstanding, glad you tried the copper pad trick, cheers, Paul Brown
Excellent video Mr. Encyclopedia!
Thanks buddy, I heard you had fun welding uphill yesterday with Paul.....cheers, Paul B
I do a bit of silicon mig on duragal security door. Works quite well just have to remember to move slower to avoid underfill.
I may have missed it in the video, but should warn people that silicon bronze is pretty nasty stuff. I mean should wear ppe for all welding but especially silicon bronze should have a mask on and as much ventilation as you can get!
This is from the Harris Products MSDS, you may have noticed I mention not wearing a respirator due to the good ventilation we have at the studio, and also keeping my head out of the fume plume,
[2 Hazard(s) identification
Classified according to the criteria of the Globally Harmonized System of Classification and Labeling of Chemicals (GHS), OSHA Hazard Communication Standard (29 CFR 1910.1200) and the Canadian Controlled Products Regulations.
· Classification of the substance or mixture
The product is not classified as hazardous according to the Globally Harmonized System (GHS).
· Additional information:
There are no other hazards not otherwise classified that have been identified. 0 % of the mixture consists of component(s) of unknown toxicity]
you may be confusing Silicon Bronze with Beryllium Copper, which is very hazardous
Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
@@ypaulbrown I saw that lead may be in the compound. That would normally be a hazard along with the zinc. Better safe than sorry. ps we used it without PPE for decades but that was then. We know better now.
@@messybench Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
It would be interesting to see how those brazed joints would fare in bend testing 😊
christian, we did not have the time to bend, but yes, they are weaker, as they are not 'fusion welds'
they are braze welds.....which rely on the surface tension of the materials for their bond strength...
I would like to have a lab to test them in for sure.....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
What would happen if you tried to mig braze with silicon bronze wire and an argon/c02 mix gas?
also trying to find this out
I know for welding, using the 100% gas will change the bead width etc. but it will work. But for brazing I worry the CO2 would make the metal oxidize slightly under the arc and not wet into eachother
hey guys, I honestly have never tried to us ar/co2 mix, only argon.....the co2 could cause issues with too much heat.....give it a try and see what happens.....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
So impressed that the stainless didnt move..
Brian, it is amazing how little heat was put into the stainless, I was very surprised myself.......especially for how big the bead was, I have done alot of TIG Silicon Bronze on stainless 18 gauge making parts for food trucks, it is much easier than stainless filler as far as reducing warpage, Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
Could you explain to me differences between uses for Aluminum Bronze and Silicon Bronze. When would you choose which?
good question, Aluminum Bronze is stronger, this is from the ESAB handbook, 3. DEOXIDIZED COPPER(a) Unlike electrolytic copper, this grade does not contain enough oxygen to cause oxide embrittlement orporosity if reasonable care is exercised during welding operations. Also, little change in electrical resistanceoccurs across the joint. Deoxidized copper is the type most widely used for fabrication by welding. The tensile strength of a good, sound weld is about 30,000 psi.(b) Welding Technique: Workpieces thicker than 1/4 inch should be preheated to approximately 300-500degrees F. prior to welding. A forehand welding technique will produce the best results. Flux is required forthick sections, and must be applied to both the area being welded and the rod.(c) Welding Conditions - See Chart on Page 14.4. COPPER-SILICON ALLOYS (”EVERDUR”, ”HERCULOY”, ETC.)(a) General: Excellent welds are made in these alloys without requiring flux. Plates up to 1/4 inch thick aregenerally prepared with a square edge. Forehand welding technique with DCSP is generally recommendedfor materials thicker than 0.05 in. On lighter material, ACHF should be used for best weld results. Where welding rod is required, ERCuSi-A Silicon Bronze Rod is recommended.5. ALUMINUM BRONZE(a) General: No flux is required; ACHF will produce the best weld results; a forehand welding technique,with an aluminum bronze rod should be used. Aluminum bronze rod also provides good wear-resistance surfaces when deposited on steel, cast iron, copper, and other metals.
this is from wikipedia.... Aluminium bronzes are most valued for their higher strength and corrosion resistance as compared to other bronze alloys. These alloys are tarnish-resistant and show low rates of corrosion in atmospheric conditions, low oxidation rates at high temperatures, and low reactivity with sulfurous compounds and other exhaust products of combustion. They are also resistant to corrosion in sea water. Aluminium bronzes' resistance to corrosion results from the aluminium in the alloys, which reacts with atmospheric oxygen to form a thin, tough surface layer of alumina (aluminium oxide) which acts as a barrier to corrosion of the copper-rich alloy. The addition of tin can improve corrosion resistance.[1]
Another notable property of aluminium bronzes are their biostatic effects. The copper component of the alloy prevents colonization by marine organisms including algae, lichens, barnacles, and mussels, and therefore can be preferable to stainless steel or other non-cupric alloys in applications where such colonization would be unwanted.
Aluminium bronzes tend to have a golden color.🧑🏭🧑🔧🛳🚢
Aluminum bronze is significantly stronger and the weld has more of a shiny gold color. Because of the aluminum, it's usually welded with AC rather than DC. I believe it has higher elongation before failure. I've used both, but only with the TIG process. Both are good for brazing, and thus for connecting dissimilar materials or when you want to keep temperatures and heat input down. Some people favor pulsing when brazing with these two fillers, and that is somewhat more typical of TIG than MIG machines.
@@benz-share9058 thanks for responding, that is some great information. When running these alloys with MIG [GMAW OR MAG] you are welding with 100% DC electrode positive so you have maximum cleaning action with the argon gas, so there is no reason to run with AC, and MIG is not known for running very well with AC, at least in the information I have read. Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
I have to say you nailed it for sure. Covered all points on the topic at hand. There's a saying "Paul you are the man." Look forward to see more great videos on RUclips. One comment I can think of, the grounding trick is great, I prefer to use a c-clamp grounding clamp. Well done and peace too.
Thanks for commenting and viewing.....Paul
I also use a C Clamp ground[work] clamp when I can, but the table in the studio would hide it and I wanted to show that great MIG grounding technique......it really does make a big differance.....and it works great for TIG and Stick......just a short piece of welding lead....will last for years, you can even use a copper Brillo [Scrub] pad......glad you liked, Paul
Thanks for the feedback! We love Paul’s words of wisdom!
Great video. I didn’t know this type of welding/ brazing existed, even though I think I’ve seen some of this welding on material over the years but didn’t know what it was. I’m going to get into using this because as you pointed out with thin metal it doesn’t warp. All I have to do is get some argon gas and some wire. I’ve always struggled with thin metal warpage over the years and for a lot of projects at home this would be the preferred process to use. This is a real game changer for me. If anyone is wondering why I’ve not heard of this I’m a retired heavy duty diesel mechanic and I’m used to welding 1 inch plate steel 🤪🤪🤪🤪👍
thanks for the comment Joel, so glad for you to get something out of this.......It is different for sure compared to welding steel, the puddle is sluggish, like bubble gum.....I think you will have no problem using, a 2 lb spool is about 30 bucks......not really much more than stainless wire......let me know how you do, best wishes' and thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
@@ypaulbrown that video blow me away ; I didn’t know that existed basically I travel in different circles. It got the wheels turning in my head. I’m retired but at home I do a lot of projects that use thin metal and have always struggled with metal warp age because of heat.that video opened up all new avenues for me. That brazing technique/ welding would produce welds plenty strong enough for what I need. I was looking into the cost of the wire and I figured it would be spindly and it is. I’m going to buy a 10lb spool and the cost is around 225.00 or so. But if I’m plan on using a lot of it , in the long run it’s cheaper. Also I need to get a couple of 150ci-tanks if argon gas, I have some tanks already that I can trade out. I need the argon because I also have a tig welder that I haven’t used yet. So I figure my initial buy in cost to get rolling is around 500.00 dollars. So thanks again for the video👍👍
@@MrMopar413 I would start out with a 2lb spool, about 30 bucks I think......you can also use it for tigging small stuff......so save your clipped wires if you have any.....if you have any questions we can help with, please reach out.......thanks for the great comment......and best wishes in you welding endeavor ....you can post pictures on the forum there too, Sincerely, Paul Brown, the old geezer that is welding......
Great lesson.
Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
Hi from Brazil 🇧🇷!
Thanks for commenting and viewing.....Paul
Hi Brazil!
Hey Paul. I loved your video. Thanks
hey welder,,,,,,thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
Thinking about could one use a spool gun with silicon bronze eh? Beautiful video, thanks for that knowledge.
Aaron, a spool gun is perfect for Silicon Bronze use.....I think we mentioned that when we taped the episode, but it ended up on the cutting room floor. the only difference I noticed using in a spool gun, is the extra weight of the silicon bronze , one extra pound compared to aluminum.......spool guns are not limited to aluminum use, you can run anything in them, flux core, steel, stainless, nickel , hastaloy, copper, and the advantage is you can get further from your machine if you have the longer lead.....great question Aaron, Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
Could you use this on cast iron???
Don, yes you could weld cast iron, aluminum bronze would be better though, you would still have to preheat the cast iron to at least 350 F degrees, and 5 to 6 hundred would be better with a slow cool down, there are some good videos on the channel on welding cast iron, one was posted last week actually, thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
Were the t-joints bent over the weld to see how strong they were???
thanks for posting this, I have a project that requires joining some tool steel and this might be the trick. Do you think a spool gun would work ok and avoid any need for a low friction liner? I realize you didn't change your liner and didn't have a problem - going commando ha ha - but you mentioned it as a possible issue to prevent birds nest.
hey Robert, sorry for taking so long to get back to you....I hope your project came out ok, I have used silicon bronze in a tool gun many times.....with no issue.....it is a heavier wire, so that is the only divergence, as the extra pound is a little noticeable.....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
Average mild steel on a car. How strong would the silicone bronze brazing be compared to a standard weld? Would you be able to cut and replace a wheel arch?
Average mild steel has not been used in many years on cars or trucks, it is HSLA, high strength low alloy.....the problem with doing a fusion weld is the amount of heat put into the base metal degrading the strength of the HSLA. that is why most manufacturers require silicon bronze repairs. the manufacturers use resistance welds for many of their welds, which put very little heat into the material, but repair shops do not have the equipment needed to do the same thing. The worst thing you can do with body repair is use an Oxy/fuel weld or braze as the amount of heat is immense, that was the old way back in the 1920's to the 1960's.....GMAW [mig/mag] replaced oxy/fuel.....everything has changed these days, hope this helps, as far as strength, I will have to assume it is as strong as the original factory welds, When I worked for Volvo Trucks North America [1990- 2002] I learned about adhesive fastening research done by GM, Volvo was their partner back then, that showed adhesive fastening was stronger than welding....and the FAA allows it for aircraft repair and building.......not some type of glue you can get at the hardware store, but it is available from auto body supply outlets......hope this helps, Paul
@@ypaulbrown Paul, massive thank you for taking the time to provide such a detailed comment. It's truly appreciated. I'll remember this information for life, thank you again!
Where did you get the copper Scotch-Brite grounding pad
hey fteve , from the grocery store......in the dishwashing section, hope this helps....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
Great tips , thanks
Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
Very interesting. Suitable for brazing cast iron?
Kowboy, yes, you can use for cast iron brazing, make sure to preheat the cast iron to at least 350 degrees F, and 5 to 6 hundred is better, slow kool it...check out some of the cast iron videos on the site, one was posted last week....... cheers, Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
Hello, I'm welding 20 ga cold rolled sheet metal body panels. I typically use a copper spoon behind my joints as a heat soak, what material can I use as a backer when using silicon bronze rod since it adheres to so many materials ? Thanks, VinceWheels
hey Vince, well, you could use aluminum, but are you burning through the base, if not, your copper spoon is fine....or a piece of copper.....remember, we are melting the silicon bronze, but not the base.....20 ga is thin stuff, so get in and get out fast....probably not good to try and do in one shot....do small areas....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
please tell me now what's high demanded welding most popular welding good salary tig mig arc oxy acetylene ?????
Tig and stick bruh
I think to be competent in all processes is the best option!
all the above, it depends on the area you live and if you want to travel .......learn all the types of welding, and keep practicing them all so you are proficient.......hope this helps, Paul
Tig welding in nuclear power plant makes alot of money.
@@theeasternfront6436 you bet......
so could this be used on car panels doing rust repairs to reduce warpage versus normal mig stitch welding.
Hi jack60, I feel it certainly would be a good way to reduce warpage,
I am not a Body repair guy, but have done a small amount of it....
and warpage due to the heat input can drive you nuts.
You are protecting the strength of the HSLA steel and reducing that
heat that can cause warping.....as with anything, always do some tests
and see if you get a better result,,,,,,I hope this helps answer your question.
Thanks for commenting and watching.....best wishes, Paul 'Paulie' Brown from Weld.com
It's kinda hard to look at the lack of wetting and the bead sitting on top like a poor weld. Thanks for the video, you did a great job, thank you!
If weld bead is only sitting up on the zinc coating how can there be any strength in it?
the surface tension gives the braze the strength.
@@ypaulbrown thanks Paul
i like the copper wire wool trick. nice.
Kenneth, it works really well, I hope you try it....especially on steel..... thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
@@ypaulbrown yes i will, great video paul, thanks.
excellent helpful video thank you
Andrew.....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
Great video, but disappointed you didn't do any break tests on your coupons. Whenever I've tried this with TIG it's the braze metal that breaks. It never comes unstuck from the base metal. And it's usually very strong but not quite as strong as a weld.
Ben, we did have the cut and polish, we did a break test but it was edited out of final cut, it ended up just bending.....Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
@@ypaulbrown woul d really love to see those tests
@@vaulmoremack3072 , I wish I could show you them, but the footage has been erased by now I am sure.....sorry, thanks for commenting , Paul
Ben, were you using silicon bronze to braze with? depending on the filler, Aluminum Bronze, Silicon Bronze or low fuming bronze, you will have different strengths......Silicon Bronze can have varying strengths up to 51,000 ksi....depending on the exact alloy, hope this helps, Paul
@@ypaulbrown Yes Silicon Bronze TIG. Sifsilcopper-968 which is basically the standard rod for that in the UK. I think Al Bronze is meant to be a bit stronger but I've never tried it (I only have a DC machine). Those low fuming things I think are meant for use with a gas torch and some of them are even stronger.
Great video!
Reece, thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
A bend test on those joints would have been good - to show how strong they are.
Mid, , we did have the cut and polish, we did a break test but it was edited out of final cut, it ended up just bending.....Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
What size wire would you use for auto body?
Jerry, .035 or .030......but I am guessing here, as I do not work with auto body materials.....I hope this helps......remember, the silicon bronze is belting at a much lower temp, [1,900 for so] than steel at 2,850 or so....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
Great video and info. Got to buy a roll of that wire and put it in my spool gun.
you Will like, make sure to use 100 % argon...cheers, Paul
I love this channel!!!!
Thanks you so much, best wishes, Paul 'Paulie' Brown
looks very cold
not as cold as you think, the filler is laying on top of the base metal, not melting into it, the idea of using silicon bronze is to not melt the base. Thanks for commenting and viewing.....Paul
please make a vedio with AB2.Aluminium bronze.Topsidr of a stainless steel304a plate with AB2.
I will send this request to the boss, thanks for watching and commenting, Paul Brown
@1:38 you seriously need to adjust your parameters, that over-roll on the bottom side of the fillet is no good at all.
Also, the galv was burning off, could see the arc changing colour, and fumes coming off.
good point, K F, since it is an adhesive weld and not a fusion weld, the weld size is much larger and is still stronger than the base material. Unfortunately, we only had enough time to do one take and setup in the studio that day......next time, we will make sure to not have any overlap, Thanks for commenting and viewing.....Paul
the color of arc is due to the 95% copper which gives it a green arc. as far as the zinc burning off, there is some zinc in the filler wire and zinc boils at 1,665 degrees f or 907 C, not all the zinc is vaporizing, even when doing a fusion weld with steel filler, there is some zinc co-mingled in the weld pool to give the weld galvanic protection. all welding will have some fumes coming off, when working with an arc that is 10,000 degrees, something is going to smoke.....hope this helps, Paul
Very useful information. 👌
Just starting autobody work after years of heavy steel. This helps a lot to learn this!
I wonder if you could do this to join aluminum to Copper? Right now lithium battery terminals are welded using lasers which is out of reach of normal people. All lithium batteries have an aluminum terminal and a copper terminal. If this works to join the aluminum tabs of one cell to the Copper tabs of the next cell this could revolutionize home built battery packs.
Ronald, you could solder them together,, less than 800 degree f heat, much lower heat and it will be a strong bond....hope this helps, Paul....
@@ypaulbrown I feel silly. It was only after I posted that that I realized the heat was probably way higher than soldering.
@@rdmevX 1,880 F and 1025 C are silicon bronze's melting temp.
Yes sir!👍👌
Marcus thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
how is it to paint over like car stuff
Awesome!
Thank you, very interesting
Central California Watching
Glad you. liked, hope you were able to get something from the video, cheers, Paul
@@ypaulbrown
I usually learn something from this channel. My dad taught me how to weld when I was in the sixth grade, gas then arc, I'm 58years old.
@@theodoredugranrut8201 that is fantastic, there is so much to learn about welding....thanks for the comments and thanks for watching, Paul
Cool stuff!
thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
The white smoke is not the zinc "boiling off", it is the zinc being oxidized to zinc oxide. It is an extremely fine powder and if inhaled can damage the lungs. It is also white in color. The white powder is seen on the back side as it became hot enough to be oxidized. I have done a lot of silicon bronze brazing using an oxy acetylene or a MAPP torch depending on the size of the parts. I wasn't aware that a silicon bronze MIG wire was available. Knowing that thin parts can be brazed without significant distortion will open up a number of opportunities for me.
Paul, in an argon environment ,there should be no oxygen to oxidize the zinc, the boiling temp of zinc is 1,665 f, the arc is over 8,000 f....the zinc is boiling off....I am not a chemist, and I may be wrong, so feel free to correct me if you can find some data,,,,,thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....hope you can use to your advantage.....
Interesting process, but I’ll stick with TIG brazing. I can see how it would be a good process for auto body work where large areas to be brazed and the fact that it’s going to be ground down and finished make it more efficient. However TIG brazing leaves a much nicer looking bead and doesn’t take that much longer.
I want to learn deploma
try and get to a class in your area, or take a job in a shop that will let you learn as you earn....best wishes, Paul
As others have said,no bend/break tests,also looks very messy spatter wise
well, how many weld demos do you see bend break tests done? If all those car manufacturers are requiring it, it should be strong right, maybe next time we can break some metal, we just had not planned it for this video, sorry, we will try to break something in the future, and yes, the process does seem to have spatter, at least in the 20 pounds I have run of Silicon Bronze, thanks for commenting, Paul
I'd rather tig it. Just looks better
Thanks for commenting and viewing.....you could always come back over with a tig torch to beautify, sometimes it is very difficult to tig due to the placement of weld, TIG also puts a lot more heat into the base material that mig does not.....hope this helps, Paul
@@ypaulbrown Of course! I forgot that MIG is electrode-positive (I pretty much only use TIG) and so the vast majority of the heat goes to melting the electrode. Benefit is less heat to the base material, but that lower heat may be why a little extra voltage is needed for MIG to cause the puddle to fully wet to the base material.
@@benz-share9058 you get the idea....most mig needs more voltage anyway.....tig is usually 10 to 12 volts for thin material.....mig would be in the 16 volt range.....thanks for the comment, Paul
Can you usw CO2 as a shielding Gas with Cusi3?
shako, to be honest, I do not know if it would work.....something to try....but with all the oxides involved, argon has been the way it have used in a maw [mig] setup.....when tigging, it is only argon, unless you want to had some helium which is very expensive....hope this helps, thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
Did everyone miss the garbage that them beads looked like. Cold lap all over those joints. I was considering going mig braze until I saw this video. I'll stick with torch or tig.
11:32 "did you see a lot of smoke coming off of that?" "oh yeah!" loll BZZZZT wrong answer
If the brazing doesnt remove the zinc galva then it means that the brazing is only stuck to the galvanized layer and not the base metal
So?
🤘🏼🇺🇸
Thanks for commenting and viewing.....Paul
Entire cold roll on the stainless. Fell far from Bob.
Aidan, nobody is as good as Bob Moffatt......thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....
Don’t mean to sound rude, but all of those welds show poor wetting out and look like crap. I think a person would be better off using another brazing technique imho.
hey Mike, the silicon bronze is rather sluggish and has problems wetting out.....you are correct saying they look like crap, but they do hold the material together. they might have been better looking if we had run a tig torch over them.....there were no second takes while shooting the video and that would have helped in my opinion also as we did not take the time to do any testing due to scheduling. and just gave it a go......the idea was to show how GMAW [MIG/MAG] welding can be done and what it is used for. With a little practice before hand and setting the parameters, we would have had much prettier welds......thanks for watching and commenting, if you learned anything by the video, it was a success ....best regards, Paul Brown
The International name of the element is Silicium and not Silicon. No problems with the name there.
I did not know this, thanks for the update, Thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
As nouns the difference between silicium and silicon
is that silicium is (obsolete) the non-metallic chemical element silicon
while silicon is (chemistry) a nonmetallic element (symbol si) with an atomic number of 14 and atomic weight of 280855.
@@ypaulbrown In the English language.
@@Roel_Scoot what language is silicium from? From Latin silicium, from silex ("flint")
@@ypaulbrown You are right, I had the wrong idea that for the elements some international standard for the nomenclature existed. It seams however that every language uses its own names.
this is not a true "welding" process... it is more like a strong glue to hold parts together. it does hold pretty well, but it is not fused to the base metal. but having used this filler to tig holes in auto body sheet metal. it does look good too 😁👍
thanks for the comment, you might have noticed I mentioned it is like a glue joint, maybe you did not watch that far in, you do have the right idea on how it works though.....some braze joints can be stronger that the base steel, even though they are not a fusion joint. hope this helps, Paul
.. good video ... except when will Americans learn metric like the rest of the world? Even the UK is metric!
1. America hasn’t fully adopted the metric system yet…
… but believe me, we’re slowly inching towards it.
2. Why will the American people never convert to the metric system?
Because they'll never accept a foreign ruler.
3. There are two type of countries.
Those that use the metric system and those that have been to the moon.
Get somebody that can actually run a fluid acceptable mig braze! There was only one that had an acceptable toe. Nobody would consider this process after viewing this example. Poor content.
thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
1:35 “Look at this great gold bead.”
This weld is rolled as all hell. Are rolled beads unavoidable since we are not melting the base metal? Or, can a faster travel and adjusted torch angle result in a more traditional “great” bead?
email, the silicon bronze is very sluggish, like pushing bubble gum.....with some more testing , we were able to get some better flatter welds, but like you said, you are not fusing with the base, just laying bronze on top of what ever you are joining,,, like an epoxy glue....thanks so much for watching and commenting,I have been behind in answering comments, best regards, Paulie Brown....