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Great video Brandon! Pre and post weld is key! Looks to me like you've done all you can for a successful repair! Heat cycles on the engine will be the ultimate test of this repair! Thanks for sharing and explaining all the steps! 👍😎✌️
Thanks for the video Brandon, top notch clear explanations of what you're doing and WHY! Something that might be useful if you often need to keep parts from cooling down too quickly : vermiculite granules are dirt cheap at any gardening store, more insulating than sand, and super lightweight so you can keep a big tub of it and it's easy to move around. It stands up to 1000C (red-orange) heat no problem. I use it when working with glass, after you're done welding or blowing a piece you set it down in vermiculite so it doesn't shatter from thermal shock before you can get it into the kiln for proper annealing.
Good job on the GM exhaust manifold Brandon. Made many trips to the wrecking yards for replacement manifolds because of the rust factor and broken mainfolds. Sure hope this does the trick for your customer. It can be done and you know what you are doing so my money is on your repair. Stay safe. OLD DAWG DREAMING Fred.
I appreciate it Fred. I will report back if I get any updates from the customer. I think he might have found me through my RUclips channel but I'm not sure. I told him I was making an educational video so maybe he will check this out and share with us at some point.
A small galvanized stock tank or feeder trough from a farm supply store ought to be a better container than the Rubbermaid tote...easier to reach in, and hold a larger part without angling. Yes, more sand needed, but it's there waiting for the next job. Great job, Brandon!!
Like a few others back in 1976 I had to weld one of the ports on an exhaust manifold on a V6 engine 74 Mercury Capri. I had guidance from a neighbor on doing pretty much same process. I got very lucky that the manifold did not warp. I did bolt the manifold down to a have half inch plate steel. And I welded it with a stick welder. I don’t remember what stick I used.
I wish I would have mentioned this in the video. Sometimes I will bolt the part down depending on the process I'm using and I was considering it at first for this. I didn't in this case because I was concerned with the casting being so thin that the plate would act as a heat sink and draw out the heat too much and too quickly causing a possible brittle situation. It's hard to work through this stuff beforehand. Sometimes even the best setup and planning can still end up in a disaster LOL
Great information! Looks like the prep work was more time consuming and difficult than the actual repair. Good planning and preparation always increases your chance for success... in just about everything. Thanks again.
Spot on. It's a lot like painting. Takes half a day to prep a room and 20 minutes to actually apply the paint. The prep work is what takes all the time but it's this part that is crucial to the repair.
Wow, Brandon, that is quite the repair and saving that exhaust maniforld for someone that probably can't get the part anywhere is an amazing thing. The techniquies you used and the materials to do the job are what is important to all of us should we need to do something iike this. Personally, I would just recormmend sending the part to YOU!!! Thanks so much for sharig this information......I inow, that is just what you DO!!! Be well, be safe, be Blessed!!!
Thanks Jim. I love these types of projects. I'm a detailed oriented person anyways so this is right up my alley. I'm curious what this is on. It must be something really nice
I don't know if you've seen it Brandy but I have a whole series on it. Much of the newer videos actually have some crude destructive testing where I compare breaking strength against different filler metals and processes.
Hi Brandon. Great video. Another learning for me. Great job on repairing the exhaust manifold. Thanks for the learning video. I'll save this video as a reference in case i do a job like this.thank you and God Bless. Keep giving us videos of learning.
Excellent video!! You have given me hope for a John Deere tractor engine block that I can’t find a replacement for. I’ve got a horizontal crack about three inches long between two freeze plugs. I was considering doing the Lock-N-Stitch repair on it but this may be the answer. Thanks for sharing. Have a great weekend brother! God bless! 🇺🇸
Thanks man. I think you would be a good shape with the silicon bronze. It's pretty strong stuff too and will easily handle the engine block temperatures.
Great repair. I found your channel a few years back when looking for a way to fix the manifold on my 48 John Deere. I ordered rods from Muggy weld. I didn't have the success you did. Mostly because I think I went too fast with the weld, and I took too much material away when beveling the cracked area. Anyway, Thanks for another great presentation!!
I appreciate that man! Interesting enough, when the customer reached out to me, that was my plan, to use the Muggy Weld rods. Once I received the part and saw how thin and burnt the casting was, I knew the Muggy Weld was going to be too much for this part so I went with Silicon Bronze. I also could have oxy fuel brazed this but I was concerned again with a lot of heat input messing with the grain structure in the burnt section so I went for ol' faithful and MIG brazed it. It didn't put a ton of heat in and it should be a good repair but with cast iron, time will tell. It could last 10 years or it could last 10 days.
Well done Brandon, that's how it's supposed to be, if you don't know about it you shouldn't get into it. I have seen your video "cast iron welding" and it is very clearly explained how to do it, just like this video. I welded it with electrodes and tig and that works fine too and an old fashioned door grille, from an exterior door with tin/bronze, also went perfectly and still sits. Thank you for your video and have a nice weekend, best regards Christian .
Such a simple crack but what a complex matter to avoid the stress-prevention. This is done with silk/churchical hands. Interesting to learn the meaning of drilling holes. New to me😁. I loved to watch this masterly repair. Thanks for making us better🤓. Greetz from Holland, Marcel Knippers😀Ps I used to repair these with CUSI3 and Argon. Maybe this is the EU-comparison? To avoid cracks is the most difficult and I don't have a B&B😅.
good video and job i have used high nickel rod before and it has held up did much the same as you put case iron in oven got it to 450f welded it and put it back in oven at 450f for 6 hour and slowly turn down oven next 6 hours. that was years ago i am sure your way is better. take care be safe and well.
Thanks man. I'm acutally going to build myself a forge very soon specifically for doing these types of repairs. A gas grill works great but I'm going to design it so it's lined with fire brick so it retains it's heat much better than a grill.
what little bit of cast repair was either brass or nickel rod wielding have not done much also have used preheat with torch and 6011 rod on heater leg that was for me still holding up
These look like Gm Exhaust manifolds For a 70s Gmc Sierra Classic WITH the 350 Small block v8 was also used on suburbans of the same time as well as 60s and 70s chevy camaros as well as many other vehicles that used a 350 small block Motor hope that helps @Brandon Lund
I don't know for sure but I bet this is a matching number vehicle and the owner was looking to keep it all original. I'm guessing a 60's Camaro, Chevelle or Nova. I am super curious though
Looks like a rear dump off a small block.. I threw a set away a few years ago.. Center dumps were considered better.. Amazing how much trouble and how many extra steps it takes when you don't have any JB Weld handy... As thin as that is, I'm still nervous,, I'd like to see it a year.. the ceramic should prevent further rust for quite a while but the vibration will always be a concern.. My thoughts were, drill the holes, grind the valley to increase surface bite, and pray,, You did a lot more than that.. I hope the customer has something to be proud of when his project is complete.. GREAT JOB!!
Thanks man. Yah it was thin...im not surprised it cracked because the other areas weren't as thin so it seemed to crack in the thinner area that was more heat effected. I hope it lasts him many years but with cast iron you never know. Saying a prayer is always in the works.
Have you tried a needle scaler to blend the grinding marks in a little more I have used it on other things but not cast iron yet not sure if the surface would be too hard but it works on ar plate so I would think it should not really 100% on the hardness levels of both those to know for sure though
Nice repair. I've had some limited success with cast iron repair using a preheat method. I figure it's "broke" anyway why not try. I never though of using the fiberglass blanket as a heat retention insulator. I mostly just use it to keep other thing from catching on fire. 👍
Great work on the steps to make the repair.. I make these repairs often..now a days I prefer to use ni99 and ni55 stick electrode, without preheat, however do still use play sand for cool down.. I always magflux or use dye penetrant to determine the initial crack length, as it appears your crack may of carried slightly beyond the lower drilled hole.. that manfifold appears to be from an older chevy small block v8.. How did the repair hold up? Hoping it held!
Brandon, nice repair but something to be aware of, older manifolds that were used on gas engines that had burned leaded gas can retain the lead in the pores of the cast iron and then come out during the repair, preheating ,welding etc, also any burns to the skin while reworking are very dangerous as the lead can enter the burned skin area and can create serious lead poisoning.
Thanks for another informative very educational video Brandon Lund DIY Builds. I was interested that chose to use the Yeswelder YWM-211P for making this video. I have been eyeing this model as a possible addition to my welding equipment. Curious,... did you use any of the MiG pulse or double pulse settings available for welding thin material using silicon/bronze for this repair? I am looking for a MIG machine that is capable of all materials. Please let me know your assessment of the YWM 211p for an all around shop MIG machine.
Thanks man. No I did not use any pulse settings but I really like this welder. I used it exclusive to weld all the aluminum for my cargo trailer cabinets and fell in love with it. I've got a lot of aluminum presets stored but I haven't used it much on steel. It's a nice machine.
Great Episode Sir 🙌! Personally, I would have prepared the crack as you did initially 👍, drill and recessed. Then some good old JB WELD and 24hr cure. But thats just me 😊. I'm perplexed why your customer is going to such great expense for a generic POS GM exhaust manifold... A concourse restoration maybe?? Anyway,, good job.🍻👌
Thanks man! It must be something special. Shipping alone both ways was quite expensive so it's probably for a matching number restoration. I'm pretty particular like this too. I like my stuff original.
What wire feed speed were you using? I tried messing with .030 wire at 365wfs and like 25 amps. It seems kinda off. It held on my John Deere engine material but there’s a log stove shaker plate I also tried to repair and can not seem to get anything to stick to the one side. Tried 7018 first. 309L and then mig braze. All failed to hold.
I dont remember what i finally settled on. I run it same as hardwire. Your issue could be white cast iron which in that case is nearly impossible to weld.
@@BrandonLund it’s almost like it was made of copper or something. I when I tried the 7018 the weld actually stuck a bit to the table and when I moved the cast iron the weld stood alone. It was pretty strange. I guess the guys getting a new price and told me to scrap that one but it was an experience. Now I just gotta pull my engine out and get the hole fixed.
Og we definately need a little luck on our side when working with cast iron. Depending on when it was made and what went in it can drastically effect the outcome. Generally the newer stuff in my opinion is easier to work with compared to some of the older stuff, especially if it's really burnt.
Have had a lot of success using Silicon bronze on cast iron. Only thing that I would do do is peen it every half inch or so. Helps to reduce any stress. The fact that you are brazing it, it shouldn't be as big a deal. Nice job 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I believe that a 'needle scaler' can make that repair look more like cast. The other benefit is that it tends to 'shot peen' the weld and relieve stresses a bit more. I guess I would be very careful trying that with material that thin though...
I'm sure it's been said but that appears to be off of a small block Chevrolet. I'm surprised the owner is bothering to have it fixed, there's nothing special about that manifold at all. A replacement would be easy to source.
I considered that also but the thin casting is what had me nervous and I felt I had more control over the temp using this process. I was really close to using that process. I was originally going to nickle weld it until I realized how thin the casting was so I immediate went with Sil.brz.
@@BrandonLund I'll have to agree with you on your decision on that go with what you're comfortable with as they always say there's never a wrong way to make a good weld just as long as it gets welded. Also it a strong enough to get the job done there is never a wrong way to make a good weld.
I bet your right! I told the customer I was filming a video of the process so hopefully he sees this and chimes in. I think RUclips is how he found me but I'm not positive.
@allenhafner7795 Wrong on both. Peining doesn't stress relief. Thats a myth. Peining elongates the filler metal to add compressive stress into the weldment.
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I remember an old guy making those repairs with a torch and old clothes hanger for his filler 👍👍🇺🇸
Thats how I used to patch in repair panels in cars
Really appreciate your time sharing with the group 2x 'Hip-Hip-Hurray'🎉🎉
I appreciate that! Thank you!
Great video Brandon! Pre and post weld is key! Looks to me like you've done all you can for a successful repair! Heat cycles on the engine will be the ultimate test of this repair! Thanks for sharing and explaining all the steps! 👍😎✌️
Thanks James! It looks solid but time will tell.
Thanks for the video Brandon, top notch clear explanations of what you're doing and WHY!
Something that might be useful if you often need to keep parts from cooling down too quickly : vermiculite granules are dirt cheap at any gardening store, more insulating than sand, and super lightweight so you can keep a big tub of it and it's easy to move around. It stands up to 1000C (red-orange) heat no problem. I use it when working with glass, after you're done welding or blowing a piece you set it down in vermiculite so it doesn't shatter from thermal shock before you can get it into the kiln for proper annealing.
Excellent information! Thank you for sharing!
Nice repair
Thanks 👍
Nice welding dude.
Thanks 👍
Good job on the GM exhaust manifold Brandon. Made many trips to the wrecking yards for replacement manifolds because of the rust factor and broken mainfolds. Sure hope this does the trick for your customer. It can be done and you know what you are doing so my money is on your repair. Stay safe. OLD DAWG DREAMING Fred.
I appreciate it Fred. I will report back if I get any updates from the customer. I think he might have found me through my RUclips channel but I'm not sure. I told him I was making an educational video so maybe he will check this out and share with us at some point.
Thank you for the video, I never had to repair cast iron that thin. I have learned quite a bit.
Thanks for watching!
Love the education about how to repair/weld various metals.
Thanks man. Every one of these repairs are different and I'm always getting new challenges.
I aways learn some new little tidbit from watching you work. Good repair, looks absolutely fantastic especially for such thin cast.
Thanks 👍 I appreciate it man!
A small galvanized stock tank or feeder trough from a farm supply store ought to be a better container than the Rubbermaid tote...easier to reach in, and hold a larger part without angling. Yes, more sand needed, but it's there waiting for the next job. Great job, Brandon!!
Great idea! Thank you!
Like a few others back in 1976 I had to weld one of the ports on an exhaust manifold on a V6 engine 74 Mercury Capri. I had guidance from a neighbor on doing pretty much same process. I got very lucky that the manifold did not warp. I did bolt the manifold down to a have half inch plate steel. And I welded it with a stick welder. I don’t remember what stick I used.
Probably nickle....I was toying back and forth but switched to bronze once I realized how thin the casting was.
I wish I would have mentioned this in the video. Sometimes I will bolt the part down depending on the process I'm using and I was considering it at first for this. I didn't in this case because I was concerned with the casting being so thin that the plate would act as a heat sink and draw out the heat too much and too quickly causing a possible brittle situation. It's hard to work through this stuff beforehand. Sometimes even the best setup and planning can still end up in a disaster LOL
Great information! Looks like the prep work was more time consuming and difficult than the actual repair. Good planning and preparation always increases your chance for success... in just about everything. Thanks again.
Spot on. It's a lot like painting. Takes half a day to prep a room and 20 minutes to actually apply the paint. The prep work is what takes all the time but it's this part that is crucial to the repair.
I love how you explain everything in detail while doing the job
Thanks Roger👍
Your a brave man taking on a cast job, I've done a little with cast electrodes, with limited success
Great video keep up the good work 👍
Thanks man! I make sure the customer is well informed before I even attempt a repair for that exact reason :)
Nice repair on that 70s Chevy small block exhaust manifold.
Thanks 👍
To ship that across the country to be hopefully fixed and it was is one heck of an accomplishment and then shipped back. All i can say is WOW!
It must be going on something special. I'm guessing he's doing an original restoration and wants the parts to remain original.
Awesome!!!
Thanks!!
In Texas, we usually use Mesquite for cast iron manifolds - although a pellet grill can get the job done.
Nice! 👌
Extremely professional and informative. Thanks!
Thanks man I appreciate it!
I have down a lot of cast welding for antique parts and this is a great tutorial.
Thank you Peter I appreciate it!
Wow ! That was slick .
Thanks man. It came out pretty good
Good vid! Fascinating metal depth discussion. One hot potato eh lol thnx!
Thank you! It was a scorcher for sure...and it didn't help that the "real feel" weather is currently 115f LOL
Really interesting, thanks Brandon 👍😁
My pleasure!
Thanks Brandon!
You bet Terry!
Great job Brandon!!!
Thank you!
I think that’s awesome!
Thanks!
Very informative!
Glad you liked it!
Thank you, another great video I'm learning a lot.
I appreciate it!
Wow, Brandon, that is quite the repair and saving that exhaust maniforld for someone that probably can't get the part anywhere is an amazing thing. The techniquies you used and the materials to do the job are what is important to all of us should we need to do something iike this. Personally, I would just recormmend sending the part to YOU!!! Thanks so much for sharig this information......I inow, that is just what you DO!!! Be well, be safe, be Blessed!!!
Thanks Jim. I love these types of projects. I'm a detailed oriented person anyways so this is right up my alley. I'm curious what this is on. It must be something really nice
Another fun video. I’m particularly interested in cast iron. Thanks!
I don't know if you've seen it Brandy but I have a whole series on it. Much of the newer videos actually have some crude destructive testing where I compare breaking strength against different filler metals and processes.
@@BrandonLund yes I have seen you testing various ways of repairing cast iron. You have a very scientific approach
I use a needle scalier to blend in the repair
I need to start doing that 👍
Hi Brandon. Great video. Another learning for me. Great job on repairing the exhaust manifold. Thanks for the learning video. I'll save this video as a reference in case i do a job like this.thank you and God Bless. Keep giving us videos of learning.
Thanks Armando! This filler metal us really nice stuff to work with. God Bless brother!
@@BrandonLund 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Excellent video!! You have given me hope for a John Deere tractor engine block that I can’t find a replacement for. I’ve got a horizontal crack about three inches long between two freeze plugs. I was considering doing the Lock-N-Stitch repair on it but this may be the answer. Thanks for sharing. Have a great weekend brother! God bless! 🇺🇸
Thanks man. I think you would be a good shape with the silicon bronze. It's pretty strong stuff too and will easily handle the engine block temperatures.
Great repair. I found your channel a few years back when looking for a way to fix the manifold on my 48 John Deere. I ordered rods from Muggy weld. I didn't have the success you did. Mostly because I think I went too fast with the weld, and I took too much material away when beveling the cracked area. Anyway, Thanks for another great presentation!!
I appreciate that man! Interesting enough, when the customer reached out to me, that was my plan, to use the Muggy Weld rods. Once I received the part and saw how thin and burnt the casting was, I knew the Muggy Weld was going to be too much for this part so I went with Silicon Bronze. I also could have oxy fuel brazed this but I was concerned again with a lot of heat input messing with the grain structure in the burnt section so I went for ol' faithful and MIG brazed it. It didn't put a ton of heat in and it should be a good repair but with cast iron, time will tell. It could last 10 years or it could last 10 days.
Well done Brandon, that's how it's supposed to be, if you don't know about it you shouldn't get into it. I have seen your video "cast iron welding" and it is very clearly explained how to do it, just like this video. I welded it with electrodes and tig and that works fine too and an old fashioned door grille, from an exterior door with tin/bronze, also went perfectly and still sits. Thank you for your video and have a nice weekend, best regards Christian .
Thanks Christian. It looks like a solid repair but only time will tell. Have a great weekend buddy!
Such a simple crack but what a complex matter to avoid the stress-prevention. This is done with silk/churchical hands. Interesting to learn the meaning of drilling holes. New to me😁. I loved to watch this masterly repair. Thanks for making us better🤓. Greetz from Holland, Marcel Knippers😀Ps I used to repair these with CUSI3 and Argon. Maybe this is the EU-comparison? To avoid cracks is the most difficult and I don't have a B&B😅.
Thanks Marcel I appreciate it! I looked at that wire, it seems very close to what I used here. They are both copper based.
good video and job i have used high nickel rod before and it has held up did much the same as you put case iron in oven got it to 450f welded it and put it back in oven at 450f for 6 hour and slowly turn down oven next 6 hours. that was years ago i am sure your way is better. take care be safe and well.
Thanks man. I'm acutally going to build myself a forge very soon specifically for doing these types of repairs. A gas grill works great but I'm going to design it so it's lined with fire brick so it retains it's heat much better than a grill.
what little bit of cast repair was either brass or nickel rod wielding have not done much also have used preheat with torch and 6011 rod on heater leg that was for me still holding up
Right on!
Nice job...looks great! 👍
Thank you!
These look like Gm Exhaust manifolds For a 70s Gmc Sierra Classic WITH the 350 Small block v8 was also used on suburbans of the same time as well as 60s and 70s chevy camaros as well as many other vehicles that used a 350 small block Motor hope that helps @Brandon Lund
I don't know for sure but I bet this is a matching number vehicle and the owner was looking to keep it all original. I'm guessing a 60's Camaro, Chevelle or Nova. I am super curious though
@@BrandonLund yeah them manifolds were used on alot of vehicles
Nice repair. FYI if you use a needle scaler softly over the weld you can mimic the unevenness of the cast iron.
I thought about that but I was worried it might shatter it like a china doll LOL
i welded my one up with stainless steel 507 electrode still good after 20 years.
Very nice! I might have to check that one out. I hadn't heard of it until now. Thanks for sharing! 👍
Looks like a rear dump off a small block.. I threw a set away a few years ago.. Center dumps were considered better.. Amazing how much trouble and how many extra steps it takes when you don't have any JB Weld handy... As thin as that is, I'm still nervous,, I'd like to see it a year.. the ceramic should prevent further rust for quite a while but the vibration will always be a concern.. My thoughts were, drill the holes, grind the valley to increase surface bite, and pray,, You did a lot more than that.. I hope the customer has something to be proud of when his project is complete.. GREAT JOB!!
Thanks man. Yah it was thin...im not surprised it cracked because the other areas weren't as thin so it seemed to crack in the thinner area that was more heat effected. I hope it lasts him many years but with cast iron you never know. Saying a prayer is always in the works.
Have you tried a needle scaler to blend the grinding marks in a little more I have used it on other things but not cast iron yet not sure if the surface would be too hard but it works on ar plate so I would think it should not really 100% on the hardness levels of both those to know for sure though
They work great actually.
Nice repair. I've had some limited success with cast iron repair using a preheat method. I figure it's "broke" anyway why not try. I never though of using the fiberglass blanket as a heat retention insulator. I mostly just use it to keep other thing from catching on fire. 👍
Thanks man and as an added bonus the blanket doesn't retain moisture like sand can so it acts as a barrier between the part and the sand.
Great work on the steps to make the repair..
I make these repairs often..now a days I prefer to use ni99 and ni55 stick electrode, without preheat, however do still use play sand for cool down.. I always magflux or use dye penetrant to determine the initial crack length, as it appears your crack may of carried slightly beyond the lower drilled hole.. that manfifold appears to be from an older chevy small block v8..
How did the repair hold up? Hoping it held!
Thanks! Good I guess? I never heard back. It was shipped out to Ca.
need to repair a Walton vise that has cracking..looking at Nic-55 or would bronze be a better choice
I lean towards bronze. It's also stronger in my testing. It will get you almost to the orginal strength.
Ive tried doing SB with TIG but get a white powder residue
What were you using for filler metal?
@@BrandonLund TIG brazing with silicon bronze
What are your thoughts on Certanium??
I havent personally tried any of their products
Brandon, which rotary burr bit did you use? Thanks.
I cant remember the brand but it's one I had picked up from Fastenal Supply
Brandon, nice repair but something to be aware of, older manifolds that were used on gas engines that had burned leaded gas can retain the lead in the pores of the cast iron and then come out during the repair, preheating ,welding etc, also any burns to the skin while reworking are very dangerous as the lead can enter the burned skin area and can create serious lead poisoning.
Great point 👍
Thanks for another informative very educational video Brandon Lund DIY Builds.
I was interested that chose to use the Yeswelder YWM-211P for making this video. I have been eyeing this model as a possible addition to my welding equipment. Curious,... did you use any of the MiG pulse or double pulse settings available for welding thin material using silicon/bronze for this repair? I am looking for a MIG machine that is capable of all materials. Please let me know your assessment of the YWM 211p for an all around shop MIG machine.
Thanks man. No I did not use any pulse settings but I really like this welder. I used it exclusive to weld all the aluminum for my cargo trailer cabinets and fell in love with it. I've got a lot of aluminum presets stored but I haven't used it much on steel. It's a nice machine.
Great Episode Sir 🙌! Personally, I would have prepared the crack as you did initially 👍, drill and recessed. Then some good old JB WELD and 24hr cure. But thats just me 😊.
I'm perplexed why your customer is going to such great expense for a generic POS GM exhaust manifold...
A concourse restoration maybe??
Anyway,, good job.🍻👌
Thanks man! It must be something special. Shipping alone both ways was quite expensive so it's probably for a matching number restoration. I'm pretty particular like this too. I like my stuff original.
Why did you choose mig over tig braze?
It's a process that yields the strongest results to-date and I have never had a part returned using this method.
What wire feed speed were you using? I tried messing with .030 wire at 365wfs and like 25 amps. It seems kinda off. It held on my John Deere engine material but there’s a log stove shaker plate I also tried to repair and can not seem to get anything to stick to the one side. Tried 7018 first. 309L and then mig braze. All failed to hold.
I dont remember what i finally settled on. I run it same as hardwire. Your issue could be white cast iron which in that case is nearly impossible to weld.
@@BrandonLund it’s almost like it was made of copper or something. I when I tried the 7018 the weld actually stuck a bit to the table and when I moved the cast iron the weld stood alone. It was pretty strange. I guess the guys getting a new price and told me to scrap that one but it was an experience. Now I just gotta pull my engine out and get the hole fixed.
That sounds odd. It could just be a lot of impurities in the cast.
I was luckier than smart when I repaired a crack in the exhaust manifold on my Geo Storm. It was one of my first welds.
Og we definately need a little luck on our side when working with cast iron. Depending on when it was made and what went in it can drastically effect the outcome. Generally the newer stuff in my opinion is easier to work with compared to some of the older stuff, especially if it's really burnt.
Have had a lot of success using Silicon bronze on cast iron. Only thing that I would do do is peen it every half inch or so. Helps to reduce any stress. The fact that you are brazing it, it shouldn't be as big a deal.
Nice job 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I love Silicon Bronze. Good stuff!
Brandon, I highly recommend a needle scaler. I will give you a cast iron appearance and is a super handy tool to have when arc welding.
Great point. Only reason I didn't is that I was concerned I was going to do more harm than good on the burnt cast.
I believe that a 'needle scaler' can make that repair look more like cast. The other benefit is that it tends to 'shot peen' the weld and relieve stresses a bit more. I guess I would be very careful trying that with material that thin though...
A needle scaler is awesome on cast iron! It's a huge time-saver!
it appears to be a small block chevy manifold .
I think so
A good way to think of brazing ... a very sticky metal glue =)
True!
I'm sure it's been said but that appears to be off of a small block Chevrolet. I'm surprised the owner is bothering to have it fixed, there's nothing special about that manifold at all. A replacement would be easy to source.
I'm guessing it's probably off a matching numbers car. I'm guessing Camaro but that's speculation.
Looks like an earlier small block
It looks to be off of an older small block.
Texture? Needle gun it.
Giveaway result kb ayega
350 chev or 400 small block
👍
Good video you put on. Personally I would have Tig weld myself and peened it after.
I considered that also but the thin casting is what had me nervous and I felt I had more control over the temp using this process. I was really close to using that process. I was originally going to nickle weld it until I realized how thin the casting was so I immediate went with Sil.brz.
@@BrandonLund I'll have to agree with you on your decision on that go with what you're comfortable with as they always say there's never a wrong way to make a good weld just as long as it gets welded. Also it a strong enough to get the job done there is never a wrong way to make a good weld.
Bucket of powdered lime to slow cool.
That works too 💪
👌👍!
Thank you Rudy!
You look like an underpaid dentist doing this job.👍
Pretty much lol
Gas is way to exspensive to waist by accidentally leaving it on
You got that right!
Probably a Camaro Z28 since there’s no stove pipe provision. Pre-1974. The part number is too hard to read.
I bet your right! I told the customer I was filming a video of the process so hopefully he sees this and chimes in. I think RUclips is how he found me but I'm not positive.
@@BrandonLund not to mention the quality of your repair. Very nice craftsmanship.
I appreciate that!
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👌🏼😎
Thanks man!
Small block V8 Chevy engine..the customer should have bought a new manifold the one you fixed is old and wore out it's going to crack again and again.
I'm assuming it's to keep whatever it's going on original?
$83.00 with free shipping for a new exhaust manifold..I think they look the same
😬 I hope not lol, Shipping one way cost that much
👍👍👍👍👍🇿🇦
Thanks!
Too much welding at one time and no peening, you must stress relieve!
@allenhafner7795 Wrong on both. Peining doesn't stress relief. Thats a myth. Peining elongates the filler metal to add compressive stress into the weldment.