I have owned several 235 motors that ive overhauled and driven the crap out of. The blue flame 6 has great torque. Presently im driving a 250 in a 36 dodge truck mild cam and 2 barrel it will cruise down the road at 80 mph and get 19 per gallon. Long live the straight 6!
I was 14 when I built my first engine, a 1961 235. It was 30 over, milled head, internals "balanced" with a borrowed triple beam science class scale and a couple of leveled straightedges, a Melling 3/4 race cam, two single barrels on an Offenhauser intake and a 53 Vette split exhaust. It went 16.3 in a 39 Chevy at Cecil County Dragway in 1978. I miss that engine.
I rebuilt my 73 pinto engine in 74 and had 2 of the pistons knurled due to excessive scuffing and aluminum on the cylinder walls from overheating. Drove that pinto til 82, no problems and didn't burn oil. It was a used pinto with 60k+ miles when I got it. Great car!!
I used to have a huge dual wheel GMC step van with the 235 engine. One day on the highway several valve guides broke off and slid down the stems making a horrible noise. I let the van on the highway and took the head to the machine shop on the back of my vespa. Pretty easy fix.
I had a 64 chevy pickup with that engine 153624 firing order. I found out that the UPS trucks use the 292 I always wanted to build a 292 to race I was really surprised how clean that engine was when you took the valve cover off.
That #6 has the top edge burned off and thats Usually caused by spark knock due to excessive timing. That tidbit from an 81 year old Mechanic that spent his life working on those old 235 Chev Truck engines. I was a Fleet Mechanic for Ward Baking company and we had a whole fleet of them in 1959 and 1961 trucks and everyone that came in with compression down on it the first thing we did was check the timing. Lots of times excessive timing was caused by the advanceing mechanism freezing in the advanced situation and the driver didnt report engine problems and he continued to drive it that way. That will also cause excessive Cylinder wall wear due to engine firing too quickly.
Thanks for the video. I like seeing engine tear-downs & the surprises each one brings. Your thought about 216 pistons put in the 235 sounds plausible. At first I was thinking maybe someone had the cylinders bored (or seriously honed) out but mistakenly(?) put the old pistons back in (with new rings) without taking any measurements -- clearing/gap etc. I like Sparkplug0000's "CSI Kansas" remark -- how I love thee mysteries hidden within the confines of the cast iron wonder. And, nope, ain't been drifting along with no tumble weeds here in south-central PA. See ya on the next one. In the meanwhile ... keep your mind on the drivin, keep your hands on the wheel, keep your snoopy eyes on the road ahead.
FYI guides in the 235 head are press in. Replacement is easy. Nothing wrong with knurling as long as you understand the limits of the repairability of knurling. Knurling and reaming is good for about .0006 to .0008 fitment correction on a straight guide/ That is less than one-thousandth. If a guide is work beyond those limits just replace them. They are cheap and can be removed and replaced with hand tools
i have drove my 216 1948 chev all my life with 6volts and babbet rods with no problem s it is no hot rod yet a good engine got the car at age 14 and i am now age 63
It would have been interesting to knock that #2 piston out, just to confirm if it was actually undersized. Like other folks mentioned, the ring land area is usually machined smaller than the skirt itself. Also, it's unlikely that someone would have put 216 pistons in it, since the original 216 slugs are cast iron, and the replacements are usually 'weighted' aluminum to make up the mass of the iron pistons. That would tend to throw the balance off in the 235, since they were aluminum from the get-go.
235 are Not exactly Stovebolt. The 216 engines were where the stovebolt mainly pertains. The 216's had the side cover extend right up to just below the valve cover. When Chev came out with the 235 they increased the stroke and bore, as well as shortened the side cover for lifter access, so it ia more like the 250 side cover. The 216 and 235 up to the 1953 model year had pressure oiling to the main bearings, cam bearings, and rocker arms with about 10 to 15 PSI oil pressure. The con rods oiled with "splash lube". Little "fingers" hung down from the rod caps with a hole that dipped in troughs in the oil pan, plus oil was sprayed at the dippers. For 1954 Chev gun drilled the crankshaft to supply oil to the rod bearings, increased the oil pump volume and pressure to 30 to 40 PSI.
@@tacoheadmakenzie9311 Those were the old babbited rod bearing oil dippers, when they went to the full pressure oiling they switched to the side bolts1954.....
As a boy in the Texas panhandle I'd watch the giant piles of tumbleweeds. It was crazy to see them hit by lightning and then bounce across the prairie in flames. Just big balls of flame blowing with the wind.
my first was a 54 Chevy that I bought in 1966 for $50 bucks and I've had several over the years. now I have 2015 Silverado WT with a V6 which seems like a good motor too even though it looks small. i stomp on it sometimes like today to pass a slowpoke in a no pass zone and it really took off. I'm retired now and just putt around in it smoking cigars.
Great job on the tear down my friend! Sorry for what you found in it though. You should build a true Hot Rod 6 sometime. Big cam, headers, dual carbs…. I’d love to have a hopped up 6 in my 48! Great video!
Looks like someone had a 216 and a 235. They mixed and matched parts to make one a runner. I'll bet #2 wasn't considered bad at the time, so they didn't swap that one. Ergo they didn't put new rings in it. The others they put new, used, undersized pistons in with new rings. I would call it a farmer fix.
Had a 1953 Chevy 3 speed on the column. Babbit slinger 216. No oil pressure to the rod brgs. The power glides had the 235 full oil pressure to the rod brgs.
I had a 1961 Impala 235 in a 49 1 ton Chevrolet. It had hydronic tappets that I replaced with solid. Better duration and lift. I had 3 - 2 barrel carbs and dual exhaust. I work on the head to clean it up. I change it over 12 v expect the starter, it worked with 12V. I had 4.55 gears and 17 " tires. It would top off at 90 mph. There were cars with loaded with wood that could not keep up!
Your thoughts that it has 216 pistons wasn't first guess too. Another farmer rebuild! But that is a real testament as to the toughness of those old 6 cylinder engines.
I noticed when you were taking the screws out of the valve cover you commented "slotted screws". Yes, those are probably stove bolt type screws. Hence the name Stove Bolt Engine. They may also be found in other areas on that engine.
I believe the major difference between the truck engine & car engine was, the truck water pump was a taller bodied pump. They were however interchangeable.
Early 6 had slotted screws on the valve cover. I always thought the true stove bolt 6 mounted the valve cover in the center of the valve cover instead of the sides like that one is but I may be wrong
Here in the uk we had a gm engine that looked identical but it had a 300cui displacment under the brand name of bedford.very reliable for A roads in the uk.gm made diesels of 466 and 500 cui that were ok for motorway use.
By the looks of #2 cylinder and how clean it is it has not been firing for a long time fuel has just been washing the cylinder. So either #2 was dead and was left that way or it wend dead once the compression took a dump. too bad you did not do a leak down test to see what the issue is if it's the ring or valve.
At this point it doesn't matter. It's going to get a valve job, and probably bore and hone and new pistons. It would have been good to know, but not now.
Had a 62 biscayne that had a 235 and a powerglide. 62 was the last year for a cast iron case powerglide and the only year the 235 had hydraulic lifters.
@@dog8nut 53 powerglide used the 235 full pressure oiling, the stick shift used the babbited bearing splash oil system216 engine, I had a stick shift 53 BelAir had the rod knocking 216 engine that was replaced with a 56 235 and retained the 3 sp stick shift, much easier to drive with 40 more HP !!! bolted right in just drilling 2 holes in front lower cover to mount, used the 6 cylinder started generator, and flywheel clutch...also later did a 52 business coupe wit same year engine....
You don't measure piston clearance at the top. You do it near the bottom of the skirt. First thing you do with an engine that has been sitting is remove the valve cover(s), tap on the valves with a dead blow hammer to be sure they move and turn the engine over by hand to be sure none of the valves are stuck. When you check compression on an engine that has been sitting, shoot some oil in the cylinders and turn over a few times. THEN check compression.
I had one of these engines It took me from Illinois to California I cracked a valve, I still have the valve but the engine went with the car that was in 1969. Or1971
Number six might have a hairline crack which is producing the oil and due to the upper damage to the piston. Number two is probably using 235 rings on a 216-piston causing the low reading. Number two-cylinder valves look a little dry for a 235. It is almost likely they are not getting any fuel cooling or lubrication. I also noticed a strange shiny spot in the cylinder head. Looking from the screen of my laptop it looks like the exhaust was passing unburnt fuel-air mixture to the exhaust port. I wonder if the seat is concentric or not?
Someone had modified it so the two bottom timing cover bolts were in from the front. From the factory they are in from inside so the oil pan must be dropped to remove the timing cover.
I removed the timing cover of my 53 from the front. My uncle came by to visit my dad and watched me change the timing gear. He told me to remove the pan and hold the cam with a crow bar against the main bearing web to keep from punching out the cam plug in the back.
There is a lot of difference between an old school mechanic and a modern mechanic/parts changer. An old school mechanic will REPAIR what is there instead of just replacing the part. They were knurling valve guides rather than replacing them for many decades. Heck, they used to even knurl pistons in certain areas to tighten them u in the bore instead of over boring the cylinders and buying new oversized pistons. They would knurl the pistons below the ring lands and down towards the skirts and then they would just order slightly oversized pistons rings. Sometimes if 1 or 2 cylinders were too worn or damaged to get by without having to overbore the entire engine, some old school mechanics would just overbore the damaged ones so an old engine might have1 cylinder that is overbored and the rest might be stock. The old timers actually FIXED what was there
Chevy made a dipper 206 and later the216,then a 235 dipper til 54, 55 235 had oil pumps and oiling crank and rods, Chevy made a 230, a 250 ,and a 292 6 cylinder
Very funny. The 235 is considered one of Chevy's legendary engines. They were reliable, easy to work on, and had just as much power as Fords crappy flathead V8 (some of the years anyway and in stock form), without the overheating issues. The 235 also got better gas mileage than the flathead V8. If you've ever worked on a Ford flathead V8 and a Chevy Stovebolt you'll know what I'm talking about. Chevy's OHV design was way ahead of Fords antiquated and inefficient crap.
@ironcladranchandforge7292 Na not really. If you wanted to deliberately design an inefficient cylinder head, you couldn't do any worse than a stovebolt. A flathead flows better than those do, and chevy never changed it. The best thing to do if you want to hotrod a chevy six is find a GMC six to replace it with. Same 3 port head, but at least they didn't use chevys ridiculous valve setup and combustion chamber shape.
@@pete1342 -- If you want to "hotrod" a Stovebolt Chevy six, first thing is to lump port the head. This is besides the point. Like I said, the 235 is considered a legendary Chevy engine that was tough and reliable. I wasn't talking about hotrodding the engine.
wow with that much Cylinder wear your initial bore will be .030 Just to kindve true up the cylinder and im betting a finish bore of .060 and Im betting you wont find pistons or rings for that old engine anywhere
Good back to school. You are obviously not a man that rebuilds motors or mechanics much. Do some internet research even? Before you record your episode.
I never understood why people are "so careful" to use a 6V battery on these old Remy starters. You can NOT hurt them with a 12V battery and you'll get far better results when cranking. If you're going out of your way and to extra expense to be sure and use a 6V battery on one of these, you are wasting your time and money. Dumb.
You don't check pistons wall clearance at the top of the piston which is smaller diameter than skirt of the piston. You need to find some other subject to make a video of.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
I have owned several 235 motors that ive overhauled and driven the crap out of. The blue flame 6 has great torque. Presently im driving a 250 in a 36 dodge truck mild cam and 2 barrel it will cruise down the road at 80 mph and get 19 per gallon. Long live the straight 6!
I was 14 when I built my first engine, a 1961 235. It was 30 over, milled head, internals "balanced" with a borrowed triple beam science class scale and a couple of leveled straightedges, a Melling 3/4 race cam, two single barrels on an Offenhauser intake and a 53 Vette split exhaust. It went 16.3 in a 39 Chevy at Cecil County Dragway in 1978. I miss that engine.
I had a pet tumbleweed once, that I brought home from Alberta. It ran away. Love stovebolts!! Thanks for the video!
I rebuilt my 73 pinto engine in 74 and had 2 of the pistons knurled due to excessive scuffing and aluminum on the cylinder walls from overheating. Drove that pinto til 82, no problems and didn't burn oil. It was a used pinto with 60k+ miles when I got it. Great car!!
They are still used in historic racing in the UK 😊
I'm not going to lie..iv been thinking on a pinto project too..they actually have a decent shape to them 🍻
Don’t get rear ended.
After seeing those pistons floating around in the cylinders, all I can say is God bless YOU!
I used to have a huge dual wheel GMC step van with the 235 engine. One day on the highway several valve guides broke off and slid down the stems making a horrible noise. I let the van on the highway and took the head to the machine shop on the back of my vespa. Pretty easy fix.
Another enjoyable episode of “CSI Kansas”.
I had a 64 chevy pickup with that engine 153624 firing order. I found out that the UPS trucks use the 292 I always wanted to build a 292 to race I was really surprised how clean that engine was when you took the valve cover off.
Great video, enjoyed it and can't wait to see the block and head come back from the machine shop, by the way, no tumbleweeds here in CT!!!
An engine rebuild coming, nice, they always are interesting to watch.
Slotted screws on the old stovebolt sixes were common for engine covers. Thus the name "stovebolt".
Yeah sorry, I didn't explain. They were hex head bolts with a slot in them.
@@TheJayhawker My 47 had just sloted screws for the valve cover. And so did to 1950.
Most stove bolts had the valve cover hold down in the center on the top of the valve cover not on the sides like that one has.
@@79tazman When they went to the 235 they changed to the side type !!!!
Inline 6's were one of the best engines ever produced,easy to work on and reliable and indestructible 😊.
That #6 has the top edge burned off and thats Usually caused by spark knock due to excessive timing. That tidbit from an 81 year old Mechanic that spent his life working on those old 235 Chev Truck engines. I was a Fleet Mechanic for Ward Baking company and we had a whole fleet of them in 1959 and 1961 trucks and everyone that came in with compression down on it the first thing we did was check the timing. Lots of times excessive timing was caused by the advanceing mechanism freezing in the advanced situation and the driver didnt report engine problems and he continued to drive it that way. That will also cause excessive Cylinder wall wear due to engine firing too quickly.
Thanks for the video. I like seeing engine tear-downs & the surprises each one brings. Your thought about 216 pistons put in the 235 sounds plausible. At first I was thinking maybe someone had the cylinders bored (or seriously honed) out but mistakenly(?) put the old pistons back in (with new rings) without taking any measurements -- clearing/gap etc. I like Sparkplug0000's "CSI Kansas" remark -- how I love thee mysteries hidden within the confines of the cast iron wonder. And, nope, ain't been drifting along with no tumble weeds here in south-central PA. See ya on the next one. In the meanwhile ... keep your mind on the drivin, keep your hands on the wheel, keep your snoopy eyes on the road ahead.
You still have access to a competent machine shop? Amazing, Consider yourself blessed.
Doesn't everyone?
Head looks fine cleanup and reuse. Piston clearance is measured at skirt.
FYI guides in the 235 head are press in. Replacement is easy. Nothing wrong with knurling as long as you understand the limits of the repairability of knurling. Knurling and reaming is good for about .0006 to .0008 fitment correction on a straight guide/ That is less than one-thousandth. If a guide is work beyond those limits just replace them. They are cheap and can be removed and replaced with hand tools
i have drove my 216 1948 chev all my life with 6volts and babbet rods with no problem s it is no hot rod yet a good engine got the car at age 14 and i am now age 63
It would have been interesting to knock that #2 piston out, just to confirm if it was actually undersized. Like other folks mentioned, the ring land area is usually machined smaller than the skirt itself. Also, it's unlikely that someone would have put 216 pistons in it, since the original 216 slugs are cast iron, and the replacements are usually 'weighted' aluminum to make up the mass of the iron pistons. That would tend to throw the balance off in the 235, since they were aluminum from the get-go.
235 are Not exactly Stovebolt. The 216 engines were where the stovebolt mainly pertains. The 216's had the side cover extend right up to just below the valve cover. When Chev came out with the 235 they increased the stroke and bore, as well as shortened the side cover for lifter access, so it ia more like the 250 side cover.
The 216 and 235 up to the 1953 model year had pressure oiling to the main bearings, cam bearings, and rocker arms with about 10 to 15 PSI oil pressure. The con rods oiled with "splash lube". Little "fingers" hung down from the rod caps with a hole that dipped in troughs in the oil pan, plus oil was sprayed at the dippers.
For 1954 Chev gun drilled the crankshaft to supply oil to the rod bearings, increased the oil pump volume and pressure to 30 to 40 PSI.
the 216 had 2 valve cover bolts on top 235bolts around valve cover lip.😎👍
I had a 216 in a 51 chevy truck
All 235s through 1953 had the two center bolt valve cover.
@@tacoheadmakenzie9311 Those were the old babbited rod bearing oil dippers, when they went to the full pressure oiling they switched to the side bolts1954.....
@@wilburfinnigan2142 1953 Powerglide engines had full pressure oiling and a two bolt valve cover.
As a boy in the Texas panhandle I'd watch the giant piles of tumbleweeds. It was crazy to see them hit by lightning and then bounce across the prairie in flames. Just big balls of flame blowing with the wind.
wow! That's one I haven't seen!
Tapping to the tune of jingle bells there for a minute 😊
my first was a 54 Chevy that I bought in 1966 for $50 bucks and I've had several over the years. now I have 2015 Silverado WT with a V6 which seems like a good motor too even though it looks small. i stomp on it sometimes like today to pass a slowpoke in a no pass zone and it really took off. I'm retired now and just putt around in it smoking cigars.
Had a 235 in my 63 truck ran great good motor
Great job on the tear down my friend! Sorry for what you found in it though. You should build a true Hot Rod 6 sometime. Big cam, headers, dual carbs…. I’d love to have a hopped up 6 in my 48! Great video!
Every time I see these old engines... I'm always saying..."Install it into a Boat!!" ⛵
The ring land area is much smaller than the skirt where piston to wall measurements are taken.
Absolutely right
at the level of the ring grooves, the pistons are machined smaller, the measure should be took at the lower part of the piston skirt.
Looks like someone had a 216 and a 235. They mixed and matched parts to make one a runner. I'll bet #2 wasn't considered bad at the time, so they didn't swap that one. Ergo they didn't put new rings in it. The others they put new, used, undersized pistons in with new rings. I would call it a farmer fix.
Piston to bore clearance should be measured at the piston skirt
Had a 1953 Chevy 3 speed on the column. Babbit slinger 216. No oil pressure to the rod brgs. The power glides had the 235 full oil pressure to the rod brgs.
I had the same thing but the 216 got exchanged for a 56 235,
I had a 1961 Impala 235 in a 49 1 ton Chevrolet. It had hydronic tappets that I replaced with solid. Better duration and lift. I had 3 - 2 barrel carbs and dual exhaust. I work on the head to clean it up. I change it over 12 v expect the starter, it worked with 12V. I had 4.55 gears and 17 " tires. It would top off at 90 mph. There were cars with loaded with wood that could not keep up!
The very first engine that I rebuilt was a 235 in my 1951 Chevrolet pickup when I Wes 13 which was mine to drive when I got my driver's license at 16
Your thoughts that it has 216 pistons wasn't first guess too. Another farmer rebuild! But that is a real testament as to the toughness of those old 6 cylinder engines.
And what's wrong with being a farmer? If you worked 16to 18-hourr days all year you might understand the piston mismatch.
Interesting orbital distributor concept🤓
I'm thinking stroker crank, forged rods, forged pistons, roller cam, head work, headers, 4 bbl carn intake, electronic ignition. Should do it.
It would be interesting to see what a machine shop finds on the bores and pistons. What are they doing with the engine to put in the money?
I hah 1966 c10 w 235, it had a offengausfer 2 bbl intake and dual exhaust manifold too, it ran good
Maybe Moe called in sick that day and Curly was in charge.
I noticed when you were taking the screws out of the valve cover you commented "slotted screws". Yes, those are probably stove bolt type screws. Hence the name Stove Bolt Engine. They may also be found in other areas on that engine.
I believe that 235 was in my moms 63 biscayne with 3 on the column
I think it's got 216 pistons. Hone it out. Install some standard size 235 pistons and rings, and this engine should be fine.
I believe the major difference between the truck engine & car engine was, the truck water pump was a taller bodied pump. They were however interchangeable.
Color of that motor looked like one I rebuilt years ago for one of my trucks. Except mine ended up being bored .080 oversize.
Early 6 had slotted screws on the valve cover. I always thought the true stove bolt 6 mounted the valve cover in the center of the valve cover instead of the sides like that one is but I may be wrong
Here in the uk we had a gm engine that looked identical but it had a 300cui displacment under the brand name of bedford.very reliable for A roads in the uk.gm made diesels of 466 and 500 cui that were ok for motorway use.
Later versions of chev 6 cylinder were 250 & 292 Cu in,.....
Had a 235 in my '59 Apache 36. Ran like a sewing machine.
Distributer drives the oil pump.
that engine needs to be rebuilt
By the looks of #2 cylinder and how clean it is it has not been firing for a long time fuel has just been washing the cylinder. So either #2 was dead and was left that way or it wend dead once the compression took a dump. too bad you did not do a leak down test to see what the issue is if it's the ring or valve.
At this point it doesn't matter. It's going to get a valve job, and probably bore and hone and new pistons. It would have been good to know, but not now.
My first car in 1968 was a 51 chevy with a 216.
Had a 62 biscayne that had a 235 and a powerglide. 62 was the last year for a cast iron case powerglide and the only year the 235 had hydraulic lifters.
Sorry but in 53 Powerglide engines had hydraulic lifters.
@@dog8nut 53 powerglide used the 235 full pressure oiling, the stick shift used the babbited bearing splash oil system216 engine, I had a stick shift 53 BelAir had the rod knocking 216 engine that was replaced with a 56 235 and retained the 3 sp stick shift, much easier to drive with 40 more HP !!! bolted right in just drilling 2 holes in front lower cover to mount, used the 6 cylinder started generator, and flywheel clutch...also later did a 52 business coupe wit same year engine....
My 53 Power Glide had hydro lifters
You don't measure piston clearance at the top. You do it near the bottom of the skirt. First thing you do with an engine that has been sitting is remove the valve cover(s), tap on the valves with a dead blow hammer to be sure they move and turn the engine over by hand to be sure none of the valves are stuck. When you check compression on an engine that has been sitting, shoot some oil in the cylinders and turn over a few times. THEN check compression.
I watched a old western movie the other day and there was a song in the movie about tumbling tumble weeds. Can't remember the name of it.
I had one of these engines It took me from Illinois to California I cracked a valve, I still have the valve but the engine went with the car that was in 1969. Or1971
Number six might have a hairline crack which is producing the oil and due to the upper damage to the piston. Number two is probably using 235 rings on a 216-piston causing the low reading. Number two-cylinder valves look a little dry for a 235. It is almost likely they are not getting any fuel cooling or lubrication. I also noticed a strange shiny spot in the cylinder head. Looking from the screen of my laptop it looks like the exhaust was passing unburnt fuel-air mixture to the exhaust port. I wonder if the seat is concentric or not?
A guy I knew said he had a late 40's Chevy truck with a 235 put a Camaro V-8 in it and he said he got better gas milage
Valve cover screws are correct. I had a 1952 that had same.
Bet'cha find a stuck, burnt or cracked valve on the 17 psi cylinder
Luckily you still have a machine shop, none left around me. Young people aren’t interested in working with their hands anymore.
Someone had modified it so the two bottom timing cover bolts were in from the front. From the factory they are in from inside so the oil pan must be dropped to remove the timing cover.
I removed the timing cover of my 53 from the front. My uncle came by to visit my dad and watched me change the timing gear. He told me to remove the pan and hold the cam with a crow bar against the main bearing web to keep from punching out the cam plug in the back.
the rod length is different on a 216 vs a 235 !
There is a lot of difference between an old school mechanic and a modern mechanic/parts changer. An old school mechanic will REPAIR what is there instead of just replacing the part. They were knurling valve guides rather than replacing them for many decades. Heck, they used to even knurl pistons in certain areas to tighten them u in the bore instead of over boring the cylinders and buying new oversized pistons. They would knurl the pistons below the ring lands and down towards the skirts and then they would just order slightly oversized pistons rings. Sometimes if 1 or 2 cylinders were too worn or damaged to get by without having to overbore the entire engine, some old school mechanics would just overbore the damaged ones so an old engine might have1 cylinder that is overbored and the rest might be stock. The old timers actually FIXED what was there
What you are describing is not fixing anything. I am an old school mechanic!!!!!!
Chevy made a dipper 206 and later the216,then a 235 dipper til 54, 55 235 had oil pumps and oiling crank and rods, Chevy made a 230, a 250 ,and a 292 6 cylinder
I was thinking "wrong pistons" but so does everyone else it seems.
How about Prussian Blue ?
Sharpie marker is the poor mans Prussian blue
#6 looks like a broken ring and id take a guess that there us a hole worn into the pistons side .
The clearance at the ring lands is .025"
o boy! an inline 6! the power of a four with the gas milage of an 8! just what I want.
I wouldn't take a haters word for anything.
Very funny. The 235 is considered one of Chevy's legendary engines. They were reliable, easy to work on, and had just as much power as Fords crappy flathead V8 (some of the years anyway and in stock form), without the overheating issues. The 235 also got better gas mileage than the flathead V8. If you've ever worked on a Ford flathead V8 and a Chevy Stovebolt you'll know what I'm talking about. Chevy's OHV design was way ahead of Fords antiquated and inefficient crap.
@ironcladranchandforge7292 Na not really. If you wanted to deliberately design an inefficient cylinder head, you couldn't do any worse than a stovebolt. A flathead flows better than those do, and chevy never changed it. The best thing to do if you want to hotrod a chevy six is find a GMC six to replace it with. Same 3 port head, but at least they didn't use chevys ridiculous valve setup and combustion chamber shape.
@@pete1342 -- If you want to "hotrod" a Stovebolt Chevy six, first thing is to lump port the head. This is besides the point. Like I said, the 235 is considered a legendary Chevy engine that was tough and reliable. I wasn't talking about hotrodding the engine.
@@ironcladranchandforge7292 You lump port The later Chevy 6 heads!!
You ask who built this thing? Daniel Powell of the Powell Machine RUclips channel, would probably blame it on Ray Charles. 😉👍🏻
Maybe 230 pistons?
848 head is high compression head
You don't measure that way. measure at piston pin on skirt. That's how you measure.
283 V8 engine mounts are the same as 235 6 cylinders
235 grand ole mtrs
YOu could have put air to the suspect cylinders to find where the compression was going.
Are you Kansas person?
216 pistons in the block, seen it before.....
216 pistons init
Live in big egerton ks jayhawk KU 😊
LOOKS LIKE SOMEBODY DID A SPEEDY/CHEAP
REBUILD !
I know them motors do not like unleaded gas ! Specially hard on the valves !
That's very possible could be a smaller piston
wow with that much Cylinder wear your initial bore will be .030 Just to kindve true up the cylinder and im betting a finish bore of .060 and Im betting you wont find pistons or rings for that old engine anywhere
how can you host a video and not figure out what you are going to say before you tape the video ///?
pretty sure 216 had cast iron pistons. those look like aluminum.
Yes, all 216s came with cast iron pistons from the factory. The aftermarket made aluminum pistons for them, though.
Can't be that hard to swap in a 350.
Small block 400 comes to mind.
292? You have to get a loan from bank to pay for the gas.
If it was a late 50s engine should have been a 12volt system
.0625 is 1/16 not 9/16.
It looks like a ford fairline engine
Sorry that is not a stovebolt engine
6 mths, there taking the piss out of you, get a new shop to do your work, tell them get stuffed .
What about stellite exhaust seat inserts?
Good motors unless you want a v-8 !
Good back to school. You are obviously not a man that rebuilds motors or mechanics much. Do some internet research even? Before you record your episode.
I never understood why people are "so careful" to use a 6V battery on these old Remy starters. You can NOT hurt them with a 12V battery and you'll get far better results when cranking. If you're going out of your way and to extra expense to be sure and use a 6V battery on one of these, you are wasting your time and money. Dumb.
I wouldn't let you build an engine for me
It's still l not too late to become a decent human being.
Just looking at the way he undid the rocker shafts and head bolts tells me he's an amateur
You don't check pistons wall clearance at the top of the piston which is smaller diameter than skirt of the piston. You need to find some other subject to make a video of.
We all learned at some point.Give the guy a break!
😂 he's doin a better job than you could , ever" get a kleenex'
Compression test with the plugs in ? And this guy talks rubbish. He has no idea what he is doing.
40 MINs OF NOTHING !!