Here's my PSA for the day: IT IS IS ENTIRELY POSSIBLE to assemble, chamber and shoot the Savage with the bolt head turned 90 degrees such that it's trying to 'eject' the spent case....to the inside of the receiver. Ask me how I know this. :-D
Okay, just note to you for being the ONLY guy on RUclips to show how to disassemble the actual bolt face. Kudos!!! I must've watched 10-12 videos to find out how to remove that damnable pin and NONE showed how. They stopped short of that step because, I believe, they don't know how or are to damn lazy. So THANK YOU!!!😁
i cant tell you how thankful i am for such a well explained video. i am very new to this and i lost the extractor on my savage axis 308. i ordered a repair kit and was able to install the spring/bearing/extractor after 5 tries and 20 minutes of looking for the bearing after it got shot out into orbit lol. the only thing i could not change was the plunger. i couldnt figure out which way it got pushed out to but since its not a broken piece on my rifle i gave up and left it alone and put the extra pieces in my case. went outside, put the mag in, slid the bolt forward and pulled it back and WEEEEEE the round came flying out to me left ( left handed bolt action forgot to mention). once again thank you.
It's awesome to see a video with someone who can explain things so naturally and clearly instead of stumbling through the process and using a bunch of on-screen text corrections. I can't wait to see the barrel swap video. I plan to get a 110 Tac in 6.5 soon and I like to know how my rifles work in a mechanical sense.
Thanks brother! Yes that'll be coming soon. I just shot my first rounds few days ago and am really impressed. Always here to help. Thank-you for watching! Btw I also do articles and writes on my new site DPGunworks dot comm
Nice, Kenny! I think the reason most of us don't already know this kind of stuff, is that we're just afraid to mess with it. I'm a copier repairman by trade, so all this is right in me wheel house. It just helps to know how stuff comes apart and goes back together before you start. These videos give a lot of guys that assurance when doing these projects. And for that, I thank you, Brother!
I can relate to this 100%. When I first started using YT to get an idea of how to take apart stuff, there was little to none. Today there's plenty and its awesome to see what little tricks folks use. Thanks for watching brother!
Thanks for the lesson, Professor! I've never played with a Savage centerfire, but after showing the various ways to change out components, I'd say that Savage has good ideas, and makes it possible for a DIY'er to make upgrades! Thanks Kenny
Geez Kenny...heheee...I kept waiting for a spring or detent ball to go flying...they fly real good here behind enemy lines...lost forever with all the other stuff. Great video...you is the master!
Well... I should have had bloopers... wasnt the first cut. I found it the first time embedded in my ceiling. That was funny! Should have put a disclaimer to wear Eye pro haha
Man, this is one of the most informative videos I've ever seen. You make it simple without filler. Thanks for posting it. I'm trying to diagnose the problem with my savage rifle. The bolt is somewhat difficult to close. I'm thinking that whoever put the barrel on it didn't do proper head spacing. I don't have a gauge set for 30-06. So it may be cheaper for me to go to a gun smith. What puzzles me is that it's very tight. Yet it shoots sub MOA. I know that it's been years since you posted this. But if anyone has any ideas about it, please chime in. BTW, I checked and there's no debris that would cause the matter.
I asked a question about this on your Instagram and you got back to me right away thanks so much for the video I have a 7 SAUM barrel in the works now!
Awesome! Im thinking barrel life will be better than 6.5CM. Im taking measurements every 100 rounds on the 7saum. One thing I noticed is that the barrel doesn't get hot like the 6.5CM (same thickness) and fouling is very minimal. Signs of this cartridge being very efficient in the powder burn. Always here to help! Ill be posting my load data and results on this 7saum
It was tough... had to fork out 50 bucks more than I wanted. I just found out you can file down a long action bolt head to about the same size on the shank and adjust the firing pin depth..... darn... lol o well this PTG one seems better built than the factory ones anyway
Eagle Eye Shooting they look really nice, I went and looked at them at midway, bookmarked them. So the normal magnum bolt head will work with the rsaum?
@@EagleEyeShooting please tell me more about this trick. I am in the process of converting a model 16 .308 win to a 6.5 prc and I'm having a hard time finding the right bolt head I need for the job. Any info on the subject will be much appreciated.
Excellent video Kenny , you show us every step of the way on how to completely disassemble and re-install Savage bolts . It’s too bad I sold my Model 11 Scout .308 Win one month ago ☹️ , but never mind , I’ll be buying the newly released Savage Precision rifle with the MDT Chassis in a few months 😃
Kenny, Great job, nice video I’m subscribed now. Thanks to “West Desert Shooter” for the guest host opportunity. everything explained clearly. I like the 2x4 bolt head holder. Only thing I would mention is headspace should absolutely be checked when replacing any bolt head. JMO Looking forward to seeing the 7SAUM Shoot straight, tight groups
I like to drape a white sheet on my work table and under it, so WHEN (for me, never if) small parts go airborne, they at least have a chance of contrasting against a plain background.
Thats awesome! Yeah if your looking at a new rifle I would consider a barrel and stock swap on the model 10. It will be cheaper and the results of swapping into a custom heavy barrel and boyds or Oryx chassis not only looks better but guaranteed to get you sub MOA. If you ever decide to go this route I really recommend replacing the barrel lug to a precision ground one that is at least .250 thickness. There's many that are about 30$ and will get your barrel sitting centered bore axis better. Since its a free floating bolt head on savages there isnt a need to really do any machining on the action. Ill show some tips when I record the process on this barrel swap👍
Very good video, been trying to get the ejector pin and spring out of my 110 bolt for cleaning and it's not coming out. you show how you gently push it out while holding the pin in with a spent case. yeah, well not the case for mine. I've now bent and or broken two 1/16" pin punches trying to get it out and the last attempt after soaking in penetrating oil over night is when I broke my last pin punch and now a small piece is stuck in the hole. Short of sending the bolt in to Savage I'm out of idea's
Thank you for this video. Exactly what i was looking for. However, I am looking to swap barrels in my Savage model 12FV .204. I will be putting a 20BR barrel on it. I know I need a 308 or 473 boltface but will I need to change the firing pin also? Your help is much apprecuated. Thank you.
Great video Kenny , I don’t even have a savage but I really found that interesting , I got to hand it to savage that bolt design is quite amazing and clever that it allows to swap calibre like that, cheers buddy 😁👍
Thanks brother! I think these rifles are a great platform for an amateur gunsmith to learn how to tune actions for accuracy. I hope to soon be blue printing 700's and others. Savage did take a very unique and smart approach to there bolt systems
I have the same Savage 110 Tactical but in 6 Creedmoor. After shooting out the 6 Creed barrel I switched to a 6 DASHER but have had problems with pierced primers since I made the switch. The only way I have avoided piercing primers is by greatly reducing the loads from what should work, 31.4 of Varget to 29.0 of Varget. The gun still shoots great but something is obviously wrong. A guy at the range thought I may need to do a bushing on the bolt head but upon inspection said that the bolt head looked fine. I then ran across someone saying that it matters which firing pin is installed, one for a large rifle primer or for a small rifle primer. Since the same action/bolt is being used now w/ 6 DASHER (small rifle primer) that was being used with the 6 Creedmoor (large rifle primer) I am wondering if that could be the problem. Since you've worked with these Savage actions/bolts much more than I have I was wondering what your thoughts might be. Thanks in advance for any help.
From what you’re saying, I’ve got a savage model 10 in .223 and all I’d need to do to change it to .556 is replace the bolt? I made the mistake of firing .556 rounds through it and it nearly destroyed the bolt and actually blew the ball bearing out of it. Scary shit.
is it normal for some savage rifles to not have a spring inside the bolt assembly screw (BAS)? I noticed it seems yours doesnt either but other videos I watch people have springs in there? TIA
Great video as I needed to readjust the firing pin depth on my Savage 10. Word of advice, at 14:03 into the video you could have simply used the ZERO feature on your calipers to avoid needing to use a calculator. The second measurement between the firing pin and the top of the bolt face simply would have read -0.050.
Are the depth of the bolt face recesses the same? I've run into issues where the chambers in Savage barrels have considerably less case head protrusion than lots of prefits. I had bought a new take off barrel and a PTg bolt head and with a go guage in the barrel breech bottomed out on the bolt head and the bolt face never would contact the guage at all.
@7:00.. put the whole assembly in a large Zip-Loc bag, seal the seal... then push the sragg paw off the head... it the ball and spring goes flying, well, it will only go flying in the bag.. I hope that helps.. I was taught that 20 to 30 years from my dad, as I kept losing E-clips for my RC cars... LOL.. he got tired of driving me to my local hobby store...
I stretched my t-shirt over the end of the bolt face, and simply pushed the extractor off the detent ball with a T-15 torx bit that was handy. Easy peasy, took 5 seconds. If you are concerned about scratching, use a brass or aluminum poke.
I realize for a caliber swap, go/no-gauges will be used during the new barrel installation, but what if I'm just replacing the bolt head because of pierced (Winchester) primer etching? Should the headspace be checked anytime/everytime a new bolt head is installed?
Disassemble "springy" parts inside a big Ziplock bag. Its impossible to get a blood trail on flying parts smaller than a grain of rice.....I know from experience lol
Replacing firing pin assembly in my Savage 10. Couldn't find spring alone. Anyways at the measurements on the firing pin. Is it 50 thousands from bolt face to firing pin tip? Mine from bolt face to rim is .111 from bolt face to firing pin tip .58. Giving .53. I'm out to 1160 with this stock Savage heavy barrel 308 Winchester breaking clay pigeons. I'm so impressed with this little rig. My buddy is out to 1500 yards with his .300 W.M. I said your still 260 yards from a mile.🤣🤣🤣👀🎯 I'm gonna give it a whirl at 1500 with my little 308 just for fun. Strelok says 73 moa! 53 dial and 20 reticle. I have 60 on the Athlon Ares btr gen2 HD APLR4 4.5-27x50 with a 25 moa base. My buddy thinks the little 308 can do it....or he just wants to see me sweat and waste ammo!🤣🤣 I have doubts about 1500. Thanks in advance! Excellent video! Keep'em coming!
Old video but still worth commenting... Being that you used a digit caliper to measure the pin protrusion, your caliper will do the math / provide you a direct reading number so no risk of mis-keying or math errors. Just Zero the caliper when you are at take your first depth measurement (bolt face rim to bolt face) then just measure to the protruded pin like you did and the caliper will display the actual protrusion amount (which yes, will be negative on the caliper but that part is irrelevant). Basically, when you had the 0.121" on the calipers, just zero it there and then when you read the pin height, rather than getting 0.0715", the caliper would have displayed, -0.0495 (or -0.050 with you're dropping of the .0005).
For me, its more of a personal preference. But two advantages of why I removed my ejector in conjunction of how I size my brass. To start, I dont bump back my headspace, rather i full length size my brass without bumping back fire formed case measurements. Usually get 0 - .001 thousandths just over fired headspace measurements. To summarize why I do this, it's because it allows the cartridge to fit snug with no slop centerlined with the bore axis with cartridges of zero run out. The bolt will have slight resistance when locking down, utilizing the cam action to lock the cartridge in the chamber this way. It helps lower ES, SD and improve long range groups as your eliminating the variable of brass expansion. With that said, I get a better feel of the bolt when locking down the cartridge with this method. Also it's said and proven, cartridges that have been bumped back will sit looser in your chamber, thus the ejector will extrude pressure to one side of the cartridge and possibly cause misalignment of the bullet to center bore axis. Also, as preference it helps me not rush my shots for precision long range/elr. Kind of puts me in the cone of accuracy and keep barrel temperatures down, concentrating more on other factors.
What model is the bolt from? My savage 11 that started as a 243 and is now a 6mm rem Ackley has a totally different style firing pin and I would net be able to adjust firing pin protrusion. Thanks Ave
Hey Kenny, thanks for this video. I have the same rifle chambered in 6 Creed and have been thinking of going 7 SAUM but I am concerned that the short action will limit cartridge length. Now that you have gone this route are you fine with the short action or do you wish you had gone with a long action? Thanks.
@@EagleEyeShooting Thanks for the quick reply. One more question though. If I was willing to single feed rounds by-passing the magazine do you think the long action would still be the way to go? I'm asking because while I've looked a little bit unsuccessfully for a Savage long action I've already got the short action like you. Thanks again.
I cant for the life of me get the pin out of my bolt head. I've hit it with a punch and hammer and still nothing. Am I able to buy the plunger and spring separately and just install in my new bolt head ?
Your referring to the main pin that connects the bolt head to the bolt body? Compressing the bolt head to the bolt body with the firing pin assembly removed wont budge that pin?
Hey so now I know that you can swap the std 308 bolt face to a magnum I have a question. So I’m a left handed shooter and of course prefer a left hand bolt gun. I have 2 308 rifles and want to add a 6.5 prc. But I can’t really find one that I want. I want savage but everything I find is right hand. I plan on doing a chassis as well as having a smith go over the action and true it and so on the whole 9yds. Was looking at getting like an axis 2 or a savage 10 or 11 in whatever caliber in lefty bolt, something cheaper and just doing a bolt face swap to the magnum bolt face then getting a 6.5 prc chambered barrel giving all to a smith to true up and assemble it. Would an axis action be worth it even with a gun smith doing his thing or just get a little better action like the 10 or 11?? If I’m going to buy one in 6.5 prc already then I want one with a heavy barrel and threaded in left but can’t find. Will go straight into an XLR Element chassis with a heavy barrel if it doesn’t have one already. Plan is to make it a long range hunting/long range precision rifle. The 2 308’s are tactical rifles. Can be used for hunting. More of 500 and in hunting rifles. My wife’s 308 I may make a 6.5 creedmoor when time to rebarrel if she wants. She’s loves a 308 though. Thank you.
I currently am a Licensed FFL and have had this come up a few times. In experience, go with a 10 LA. If your needing help contact me via DPGunworks.com
I used my rifle as a lever to loosen the nut. Once it cracked it loose I just removed the bolt assembly from the rifle and then proceeded to disassemble it. That bolt is pretty tight from the factory and if you don't have a work bench or a fixture to secure it you adapt, improvise, overcome.🙂
Here's my PSA for the day: IT IS IS ENTIRELY POSSIBLE to assemble, chamber and shoot the Savage with the bolt head turned 90 degrees such that it's trying to 'eject' the spent case....to the inside of the receiver. Ask me how I know this. :-D
Hahah Ive done that also. Pinning this comment! 👍
Okay, just note to you for being the ONLY guy on RUclips to show how to disassemble the actual bolt face. Kudos!!!
I must've watched 10-12 videos to find out how to remove that damnable pin and NONE showed how. They stopped short of that step because, I believe, they don't know how or are to damn lazy.
So THANK YOU!!!😁
I put the bolt head inside a zip lock bag when removing the extractor because I knew I would lose the ball...it worked....thanks for the great video.
You, sir, have restored my interest in Savage bolt actions.
Could use a gallon zip lock bag, cover and take out detent ball. If if it flies off its in the bag
i cant tell you how thankful i am for such a well explained video. i am very new to this and i lost the extractor on my savage axis 308. i ordered a repair kit and was able to install the spring/bearing/extractor after 5 tries and 20 minutes of looking for the bearing after it got shot out into orbit lol. the only thing i could not change was the plunger. i couldnt figure out which way it got pushed out to but since its not a broken piece on my rifle i gave up and left it alone and put the extra pieces in my case. went outside, put the mag in, slid the bolt forward and pulled it back and WEEEEEE the round came flying out to me left ( left handed bolt action forgot to mention). once again thank you.
It's awesome to see a video with someone who can explain things so naturally and clearly instead of stumbling through the process and using a bunch of on-screen text corrections. I can't wait to see the barrel swap video. I plan to get a 110 Tac in 6.5 soon and I like to know how my rifles work in a mechanical sense.
Thanks brother! Yes that'll be coming soon. I just shot my first rounds few days ago and am really impressed. Always here to help. Thank-you for watching! Btw I also do articles and writes on my new site DPGunworks dot comm
Nice, Kenny! I think the reason most of us don't already know this kind of stuff, is that we're just afraid to mess with it. I'm a copier repairman by trade, so all this is right in me wheel house. It just helps to know how stuff comes apart and goes back together before you start. These videos give a lot of guys that assurance when doing these projects. And for that, I thank you, Brother!
I can relate to this 100%. When I first started using YT to get an idea of how to take apart stuff, there was little to none. Today there's plenty and its awesome to see what little tricks folks use. Thanks for watching brother!
I used this video to help swap out a bolt handle. It was PERFECT, thank you so much!
Thanks for the lesson, Professor! I've never played with a Savage centerfire, but after showing the various ways to change out components, I'd say that Savage has good ideas, and makes it possible for a DIY'er to make upgrades! Thanks Kenny
Geez Kenny...heheee...I kept waiting for a spring or detent ball to go flying...they fly real good here behind enemy lines...lost forever with all the other stuff. Great video...you is the master!
Well... I should have had bloopers... wasnt the first cut. I found it the first time embedded in my ceiling. That was funny! Should have put a disclaimer to wear Eye pro haha
Man, this is one of the most informative videos I've ever seen. You make it simple without filler. Thanks for posting it. I'm trying to diagnose the problem with my savage rifle. The bolt is somewhat difficult to close. I'm thinking that whoever put the barrel on it didn't do proper head spacing. I don't have a gauge set for 30-06. So it may be cheaper for me to go to a gun smith. What puzzles me is that it's very tight. Yet it shoots sub MOA. I know that it's been years since you posted this. But if anyone has any ideas about it, please chime in. BTW, I checked and there's no debris that would cause the matter.
Oh wow! I did not know this. Very cool! Hmmm, hmmmm!
Not sure what to go with. I need to pull my Model 11 308 barrel.
Thanks for the info
Excellent video. Thank you for this info. Do you have another video on swapping the barrel and setting headspace?
Cool. I was worried I wasn’t going to learn anything today! That should be enough learning for the entire week:) I like those savages even more now
Haha thats an awesome goal to set everyday brother. I'm glad this contributed and hope it helps 🤙👍
I asked a question about this on your Instagram and you got back to me right away thanks so much for the video I have a 7 SAUM barrel in the works now!
Awesome! Im thinking barrel life will be better than 6.5CM. Im taking measurements every 100 rounds on the 7saum. One thing I noticed is that the barrel doesn't get hot like the 6.5CM (same thickness) and fouling is very minimal. Signs of this cartridge being very efficient in the powder burn. Always here to help! Ill be posting my load data and results on this 7saum
Gotta love savages, so easy to switch and swap, glad you found a magnum bolt head
It was tough... had to fork out 50 bucks more than I wanted. I just found out you can file down a long action bolt head to about the same size on the shank and adjust the firing pin depth..... darn... lol o well this PTG one seems better built than the factory ones anyway
Eagle Eye Shooting they look really nice, I went and looked at them at midway, bookmarked them. So the normal magnum bolt head will work with the rsaum?
@@EagleEyeShooting please tell me more about this trick. I am in the process of converting a model 16 .308 win to a 6.5 prc and I'm having a hard time finding the right bolt head I need for the job. Any info on the subject will be much appreciated.
Excellent video Kenny , you show us every step of the way on how to completely disassemble and re-install Savage bolts . It’s too bad I sold my Model 11 Scout .308 Win one month ago ☹️ , but never mind , I’ll be buying the newly released Savage Precision rifle with the MDT Chassis in a few months 😃
I can't wait to get my hands on that rifle too! Its actually a good deal for whatcha get. Thanks brother!
Thanks, I couldn't get my bolt back in the gun until I watched your video lol
Kenny,
Great job, nice video
I’m subscribed now.
Thanks to “West Desert Shooter” for the guest host opportunity.
everything explained clearly.
I like the 2x4 bolt head holder.
Only thing I would mention is headspace should absolutely be checked when replacing any bolt head. JMO
Looking forward to seeing the 7SAUM
Shoot straight, tight groups
Absolutely a headspace check everytime anything is changed in the bolt. Thanks for the sub! Always here to help. Merry Christmas brother
Really cool info there Kenny looking forward to your next video
I like to drape a white sheet on my work table and under it, so WHEN (for me, never if) small parts go airborne, they at least have a chance of contrasting against a plain background.
Oh so very nice.. 7mm saum !!
I have a model 10 243, and the axis 308. Been thinking about doing something with one.. good DIY !
Thats awesome! Yeah if your looking at a new rifle I would consider a barrel and stock swap on the model 10. It will be cheaper and the results of swapping into a custom heavy barrel and boyds or Oryx chassis not only looks better but guaranteed to get you sub MOA. If you ever decide to go this route I really recommend replacing the barrel lug to a precision ground one that is at least .250 thickness. There's many that are about 30$ and will get your barrel sitting centered bore axis better. Since its a free floating bolt head on savages there isnt a need to really do any machining on the action. Ill show some tips when I record the process on this barrel swap👍
@@EagleEyeShooting a 6.5x47 would be a nice caliber to build..
Awesome now I can take my two apart and clean them LOL !!! Thanks Kenny !! And maybe a caliber change later in life..
Haha. Well glad it help either way!
@@EagleEyeShooting my 308 was bought new in 94 just saying LOL
Sweet Brother, glad you made this.
I should get a savage......after the martini. thanks for the vid Kenny.
I know they have a few... Ill put it aside one for ya as well 🤣👍
Very good video, been trying to get the ejector pin and spring out of my 110 bolt for cleaning and it's not coming out. you show how you gently push it out while holding the pin in with a spent case. yeah, well not the case for mine. I've now bent and or broken two 1/16" pin punches trying to get it out and the last attempt after soaking in penetrating oil over night is when I broke my last pin punch and now a small piece is stuck in the hole. Short of sending the bolt in to Savage I'm out of idea's
Cool that it can be ordered DIY 👍
Thanks brother! Was just watching your range day video
Great video, thank you!
Very nice job explaining it, Thank you!
Great vid Kenny. 👍🏻🇺🇸
Hey Georgia boy! Funny how we where just talking about this yesterday lol
Thank you for this video. Exactly what i was looking for. However, I am looking to swap barrels in my Savage model 12FV .204. I will be putting a 20BR barrel on it. I know I need a 308 or 473 boltface but will I need to change the firing pin also? Your help is much apprecuated. Thank you.
Dude what a well done video! This is a great view and explanation. Very well done man. Can’t wait to see you tear it up with the SAUM!
I learned something!
If I ever work on a Savage bolt head....let somebody with skinny fingers do it😁
Great vid👍
Hahaha. You can always send it to me and ill do it. That ruger 264 Win wont need any work 😁👍
Great video Kenny , I don’t even have a savage but I really found that interesting , I got to hand it to savage that bolt design is quite amazing and clever that it allows to swap calibre like that, cheers buddy 😁👍
Thanks brother! I think these rifles are a great platform for an amateur gunsmith to learn how to tune actions for accuracy. I hope to soon be blue printing 700's and others. Savage did take a very unique and smart approach to there bolt systems
That’s brilliant stuff buddy 😁👍👍
I made a simple jig to compress that firing spring works great if I knew how to put the pics on line I would
Post it on the group form at DPGunworks.com 👍
Very good and detailed vid....Nice job....Good stuff.....
I have the same Savage 110 Tactical but in 6 Creedmoor. After shooting out the 6 Creed barrel I switched to a 6 DASHER but have had problems with pierced primers since I made the switch. The only way I have avoided piercing primers is by greatly reducing the loads from what should work, 31.4 of Varget to 29.0 of Varget. The gun still shoots great but something is obviously wrong. A guy at the range thought I may need to do a bushing on the bolt head but upon inspection said that the bolt head looked fine. I then ran across someone saying that it matters which firing pin is installed, one for a large rifle primer or for a small rifle primer. Since the same action/bolt is being used now w/ 6 DASHER (small rifle primer) that was being used with the 6 Creedmoor (large rifle primer) I am wondering if that could be the problem. Since you've worked with these Savage actions/bolts much more than I have I was wondering what your thoughts might be. Thanks in advance for any help.
From what you’re saying, I’ve got a savage model 10 in .223 and all I’d need to do to change it to .556 is replace the bolt? I made the mistake of firing .556 rounds through it and it nearly destroyed the bolt and actually blew the ball bearing out of it. Scary shit.
Good job 👍
is it normal for some savage rifles to not have a spring inside the bolt assembly screw (BAS)? I noticed it seems yours doesnt either but other videos I watch people have springs in there? TIA
Great video!
Great video as I needed to readjust the firing pin depth on my Savage 10. Word of advice, at 14:03 into the video you could have simply used the ZERO feature on your calipers to avoid needing to use a calculator. The second measurement between the firing pin and the top of the bolt face simply would have read -0.050.
Are the depth of the bolt face recesses the same? I've run into issues where the chambers in Savage barrels have considerably less case head protrusion than lots of prefits. I had bought a new take off barrel and a PTg bolt head and with a go guage in the barrel breech bottomed out on the bolt head and the bolt face never would contact the guage at all.
@7:00.. put the whole assembly in a large Zip-Loc bag, seal the seal... then push the sragg paw off the head... it the ball and spring goes flying, well, it will only go flying in the bag.. I hope that helps.. I was taught that 20 to 30 years from my dad, as I kept losing E-clips for my RC cars... LOL.. he got tired of driving me to my local hobby store...
The best way to break the bolt handle bolt loose is to put the alien key in and place the bolt on the floor and step on it .breaks free alot easier
Excellent video.
what about a 7mm magnum to a .308 bolt head, long action of course. is that possible?
Hi there.
the video is fantastic.
Can i task you to send me over the size of the Little sfere ? i Lost it this afternoon ....
thank you
I stretched my t-shirt over the end of the bolt face, and simply pushed the extractor off the detent ball with a T-15 torx bit that was handy. Easy peasy, took 5 seconds.
If you are concerned about scratching, use a brass or aluminum poke.
Awesome tips! Thanks man!
Good job.
Is this also possible on a Model 12 action.
So u went from a short action to a short action magnem ?
pretty cool brother
Please Can i also have a bigger shot of the sfere? thank you so much
I realize for a caliber swap, go/no-gauges will be used during the new barrel installation, but what if I'm just replacing the bolt head because of pierced (Winchester) primer etching? Should the headspace be checked anytime/everytime a new bolt head is installed?
Yes absolutely. I've seen deviations on bolt heads in 4 thousandths. Thats a difference in a Chamber gauge
What about headspace. Don't you need go/no go gauges to determine the correct eadspace?
Of course. When installing a barrel
Disassemble "springy" parts inside a big Ziplock bag. Its impossible to get a blood trail on flying parts smaller than a grain of rice.....I know from experience lol
Replacing firing pin assembly in my Savage 10. Couldn't find spring alone. Anyways at the measurements on the firing pin. Is it 50 thousands from bolt face to firing pin tip?
Mine from bolt face to rim is .111 from bolt face to firing pin tip .58. Giving .53.
I'm out to 1160 with this stock Savage heavy barrel 308 Winchester breaking clay pigeons. I'm so impressed with this little rig.
My buddy is out to 1500 yards with his .300 W.M. I said your still 260 yards from a mile.🤣🤣🤣👀🎯
I'm gonna give it a whirl at 1500 with my little 308 just for fun. Strelok says 73 moa! 53 dial and 20 reticle. I have 60 on the Athlon Ares btr gen2 HD APLR4 4.5-27x50 with a 25 moa base. My buddy thinks the little 308 can do it....or he just wants to see me sweat and waste ammo!🤣🤣 I have doubts about 1500.
Thanks in advance!
Excellent video!
Keep'em coming!
Excellent !!!!!
Do you know of a fix for weak election on the 110 tactical?
do you sell just the chamber set?
I have savage 110 hunter 300win mag, I need to change caliber to .308 what parts I should I replace?
Old video but still worth commenting... Being that you used a digit caliper to measure the pin protrusion, your caliper will do the math / provide you a direct reading number so no risk of mis-keying or math errors. Just Zero the caliper when you are at take your first depth measurement (bolt face rim to bolt face) then just measure to the protruded pin like you did and the caliper will display the actual protrusion amount (which yes, will be negative on the caliper but that part is irrelevant). Basically, when you had the 0.121" on the calipers, just zero it there and then when you read the pin height, rather than getting 0.0715", the caliper would have displayed, -0.0495 (or -0.050 with you're dropping of the .0005).
a good method for the extractor removal is to put the bolt head in a plastic bag to catch anything that decides to shoot out
Thanks!
No problem!Thanks for the super!
Pretty cool , the disassembly on my Mosin nagant bolt is much simpler . LOL
Hahha so true
My BAS screw is so in there from the factory, a gunsmith couldn't get it apart 😂
Sweet!
Out of my ignorance why leave out the ejector ?
For me, its more of a personal preference. But two advantages of why I removed my ejector in conjunction of how I size my brass. To start, I dont bump back my headspace, rather i full length size my brass without bumping back fire formed case measurements. Usually get 0 - .001 thousandths just over fired headspace measurements. To summarize why I do this, it's because it allows the cartridge to fit snug with no slop centerlined with the bore axis with cartridges of zero run out. The bolt will have slight resistance when locking down, utilizing the cam action to lock the cartridge in the chamber this way. It helps lower ES, SD and improve long range groups as your eliminating the variable of brass expansion. With that said, I get a better feel of the bolt when locking down the cartridge with this method. Also it's said and proven, cartridges that have been bumped back will sit looser in your chamber, thus the ejector will extrude pressure to one side of the cartridge and possibly cause misalignment of the bullet to center bore axis.
Also, as preference it helps me not rush my shots for precision long range/elr. Kind of puts me in the cone of accuracy and keep barrel temperatures down, concentrating more on other factors.
I can understand that with elr shooting ... thanks for your response... good video sir
What model is the bolt from? My savage 11 that started as a 243 and is now a 6mm rem Ackley has a totally different style firing pin and I would net be able to adjust firing pin protrusion. Thanks Ave
Its a Savage 110 SA. The model 11 uses a different firing pin
Hey Kenny, thanks for this video. I have the same rifle chambered in 6 Creed and have been thinking of going 7 SAUM but I am concerned that the short action will limit cartridge length. Now that you have gone this route are you fine with the short action or do you wish you had gone with a long action? Thanks.
Id go with a long action. The 190gr bullets wont be pushed to its potential less its past 3.050
@@EagleEyeShooting Thanks for the quick reply. One more question though. If I was willing to single feed rounds by-passing the magazine do you think the long action would still be the way to go? I'm asking because while I've looked a little bit unsuccessfully for a Savage long action I've already got the short action like you. Thanks again.
Single feed will work, yes
@@EagleEyeShooting Thanks
I cant for the life of me get the pin out of my bolt head. I've hit it with a punch and hammer and still nothing. Am I able to buy the plunger and spring separately and just install in my new bolt head ?
Your referring to the main pin that connects the bolt head to the bolt body? Compressing the bolt head to the bolt body with the firing pin assembly removed wont budge that pin?
@@EagleEyeShooting no the pin you pushed out at 5:18
Hey so now I know that you can swap the std 308 bolt face to a magnum I have a question.
So I’m a left handed shooter and of course prefer a left hand bolt gun. I have 2 308 rifles and want to add a 6.5 prc. But I can’t really find one that I want. I want savage but everything I find is right hand. I plan on doing a chassis as well as having a smith go over the action and true it and so on the whole 9yds.
Was looking at getting like an axis 2 or a savage 10 or 11 in whatever caliber in lefty bolt, something cheaper and just doing a bolt face swap to the magnum bolt face then getting a 6.5 prc chambered barrel giving all to a smith to true up and assemble it.
Would an axis action be worth it even with a gun smith doing his thing or just get a little better action like the 10 or 11??
If I’m going to buy one in 6.5 prc already then I want one with a heavy barrel and threaded in left but can’t find.
Will go straight into an XLR Element chassis with a heavy barrel if it doesn’t have one already.
Plan is to make it a long range hunting/long range precision rifle. The 2 308’s are tactical rifles. Can be used for hunting. More of 500 and in hunting rifles. My wife’s 308 I may make a 6.5 creedmoor when time to rebarrel if she wants. She’s loves a 308 though.
Thank you.
I currently am a Licensed FFL and have had this come up a few times. In experience, go with a 10 LA. If your needing help contact me via DPGunworks.com
If I get cataract surgury I'm calling you!
what would it take to convert a savage 110 tactical from 6.5 creedmoor to 308 winchester?
I think that’s just a barrel swap
Can I change a axis in .223 to 50 Beowulf?
Should work if the Axis was dropped into a MDT chassis and accurate AR10 mags are used 👍
A socket and a c clamp is a ton easier than using a piece of brass...
my savage 223 won't eject after about 40 bullets bolt handle comes up but won't slide back
Hard to determine the problem. Im a FFL gunsmith if you need me to take a look at it. DPGunworks.com
LoL,yup..my pistols spring clip took off at 50 mph's :-b
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Супер....
NO NEED TO GO NO GO CHECK ?
Always headspace check for safety
Take the spring out in a one gallon ziplock bag
Ok this guy managed to really complicate a bolt removal.just simply leave it in the rifle and unscrew the rear bolt its just that simple.
Cool, how do you swap the bolt head in the rifle? Or remove the firing pin with the bolt in the rifle?
@@EagleEyeShooting I know the screw can be a real pain as I found out when I rebuilt my bolt and rechambered from 300 win to a 338 win.
I used my rifle as a lever to loosen the nut. Once it cracked it loose I just removed the bolt assembly from the rifle and then proceeded to disassemble it.
That bolt is pretty tight from the factory and if you don't have a work bench or a fixture to secure it you adapt, improvise, overcome.🙂
Winchester sx4
These savage bolts are a bitch and a half to take apart
Great video! Thanks