This is the best video out there for learning how to use the tools. I'm doing a barrel swap and seeing the "go/no go" tools in a clear video with very easy to understand comments is a major, major help. Thank you.
I’m getting ready to swap my 30’06 barrel out for a 35 Whelen..on a Savage Axis. Wish I had those shims..ER Shaw made the new barrel and I went with them because they include a barrel wrench and go/no-go gauges. Your video really helps me to visualize the process and I’ll keep my iPad handy so I can refer back to it. I’ve always wanted a bolt action in this caliber…have had an H&R Handi Rifle in this caliber for about 20 years. Never swapped a barrel before, that’s why I’m starting simple and cheap. Thanks for the video.
@ sorry, I just got the notification of your comment 10 months after you made it! It went GREAT! The barrel is quite heavy, but it’s amazingly easy to install correctly and accuracy is better than I’d imagined. About 1” at 100 yds. I had to inlet the stock a mite, but did that easily with an old fixed-blade knife that’s lived in a drawer for 20 years.
Terrific video. Very well done and not a lot of background or filler info. I've always wanted know the steps of removing and installing a barrel on the Savage. Great job!
Thanks for the video. Because of your video, and a few others on ,YT I have the knowledge to safely re-barrel a few Savage and Stevens rifles. So far I have installed 07-08 and a 260 Rem. Today I am planning to install a 250 Savage barrel that I purchased from Jerry Teo at Mystic Precision. One of the issues with changing barrels that makes my eyes twitch and my brain itch is that it is impossible to "index" the written information to show up where it normally does on the side of the barrel. The indexing is totally dependent on where the Go Gauge fits. As luck would have it both of the rifles that I re-barreled ended up with the caliber, manufacturer info facing down towards the stock. Just have to live with it or find a way to get the barrel engraved.
the square holes in the locking collar wrench are for a breaker bar and then a torque wrench when tighten the locking collar. when using the torque wrench you want at a right angle to the wrench to get the proper torque.
Good Vid, I'd like to add that replacement barrel nut's for the savage and the elusive ruger American are available for order at pacific gage and tool.
Great short to the point video that shows & describes the process so anyone with minimal tools can re-barrel a Savage. Glad I found it & plan to use it as a guide from now on. Lubricant is a great idea. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I would recommend using a torque wrench to ensure a safe build, especially if this is your first barrel swap. I simply don't mind torquing by feel since I've built and rebuilt these rifles so many times. A few taps of the mallet and the barrel nut is plenty tight.
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The "factory" goop is likely anti-seize compound. I also like to put some on the threads when I reassemble the barrel because it has a much higher temperature tolerance than petroleum based pubs
notice the square holes below the teeth on the wrench???? those are for a breaker handle either 3/8 or 1/2 (I cant tell) and once you have the jam nut loose you can remove the receiver , its not as hard as you make it look plus you'll be closer to your setting once you put it together
Back to Basics Show Yes it is a heavy barreled 308, a model from about 13 years old. An accurate rifle but heavy and I have other platforms that can fill it's designated roll.
I put a piece of blue painters tape on the user side of the wrenck with an arrow showing 'tighten; and one showing 'loosen'. Takes the guess out of it.
Thanks for the comments, Nick! I can see by the impressive video resume on your channel that you do your gunsmithing "by the book." Or perhaps "from the armchair" or "in your mind." Since my very accurate rifles languish under the strain of being built with substandard tools, I have decided to cut them all down for scrap and swear to never again attempt to do anything real. I will instead follow your lead and craft perfect weapons in my imagination from the safety of my mom's basement.
A few feet of steel pipe can work wonders. There are definitely times to use only precision tools, like when you're torquing a valve cover on an engine. And then there are times when you're just ratcheting down a heavy-duty vise with bolts as thick as your thumb. Good luck on your project! Consider showing it off in a video response!
From my research the barrel nut with the wrench should be torqued to 35ftlb. Clamping down on the barrel that much is excessive. If the insert was made from Delrin then there would be no chance of marking the barrel and the Delrin would provide plenty of grip when the nuts were torqued to 100ftpb.
Super job b2bs! now I understand this headspace thing and funny enough, am going to use your cheater bar technique on those tight ass lugnuts I am struggling with. Talk about timing huh? Don't mind the haters bro .... wish I had bought the universal wrench at Canadian Tire last night instead of the 32mm socket and rachet which cost me $42
Great video. 64,000 hits nice job. It was very helpful, Can you use a plumbers wrench to get the new smooth style barrel nut off? Then change to the slotted style you have in the video. I know they make a clamp. They look like they might slip.
Thanks, thinking about buying a $199.00 Savage 200 in 270? To build a long range rifle in what caliber would you suggest? Your instruction makes it look like a 65yr old shop teacher could handle it. Just getting into long range shooting. The Savage 200 has a light barrel on it. I think 1-10 twist. I just read the rest of your comments and you are a wealth of info. I've found the right person to take advice from. Thanks again for any suggestions. Paul
Paul Frank - I've done a Stevens 200 build. It's a great way to go. You'll have quite a few excellent options for long-range work. .300 Win Mag might be a good choice; brass is plentiful, range is fantastic, and there are tons of projectiles to choose from. You can shoot 147-grain FMJs on the cheap, and 220-grain match bullets for precision. As long as you have a 1-10 twist, those heavy bullets will run great. Another advantage of the .30-caliber bore will be the bounty of silencers that will fit.
you made it look easy.. ive been contemplating buying a savage receiver and getting a made for savage shilen barrel a little longer than the savage stock barrels. So are all the long actions interchangeable? Where would a guy get the parts for the bolt head?? Since I'm looking to go 25-06 I'm guessing their a little harder to find so I'd probably buy a used 270 or 30-06 and throw on a 25-06 barrel. I reload and stuff so adding more tools are no biggy I'm just a little confused how there is no slop in the receiver when changing to a different cartridge?? Anyway, very informative video!
There are a few places to find replacement bolt heads. Here's one: switchbarrel.com/BOLTHEAD.htm Purchasing a .30-06 or .270 is a perfect starting point for a .25-06. Just make sure that Shilen or one of the other barrel manufacturers provides a barrel with the specs you want. And as long as you use a correct headspace gage when swapping barrels, you should have no problems with slop in the chamber. One extra note - you can step away from a common chamber if you want. Shilen will cut .25-06, but will also cut several improved chambers like .25-06 AI.
Great video! Thank you so much for sharing your expertise. Here's a technical question: How do you make sure the markings on the barrel are properly indexed after installation so they can be read when the barreled action is placed in the stock? This may be a dumb question but I'm concerned about the placement of these markings either above or below the line of the sock after correct head spacing. I intend to use a custom barrel from Bartlien, Douglas, or the like. Thank you so much!
Good question! It has been my experience so far that a properly headspaced barrel will naturally index the text to its appropriate position. I can't say that it will always work out this way; I suppose it depends upon the barrel manufacturer having the foresight to stamp the barrel correctly. But the Savage action is a standard length, and any chamber will be cut within rather close tolerances. I would expect everything to line up rather uniformly. I could be wrong, though.
This was a great video for me as my 1st long gun purchase was ack while i was still green "completely" to firearms.Well as a young teen i did shoot clays and .22's at targets.They were my grandfathers guns but i just didnt get into at that age to be honest i was just getting into girls! LOL Well i went into the service strait out of high scool as we did back in the early 80s.But after i got out i just never seemed to get into the shooting again?I didnt hunt but i did like shooting.But after the service i didnt have a taste for it for a few years.Anywho flash forward to the middle of Obama's 1st term and our sleepy quiet little town in the burbs had about 1/2 dozen home invasions so i felt the need to got handgun for home protection and that led to me wanting to get into local longer range rifles shoots.Been having lots of fun to win a case of beer or a dinner out for the wife and I.lol But i purchased my Savage Axis I in 6.5Creedmoor as they were just coming out with the Axis II lol ....shoulda,woulda,coulda,lol well i have been looking for a good chassis for a more pleasing looking rifle as well as add a bit of accuracy as the claims say and a better functioning firearm.Is there any suggestions that you can make for a type and brand of chassis for my Axis I in 6.5Creedmoor?I love the round but it makes for a bit of frustration when looking for anything aftermarket to upgrade this rifle?:>/ so please be good enough to offer me a direction?hehe
Just a WAG, but it looks like the bolts that clamp the barrel are 3/4-16 thread. Also guessing that you are putting about 300 ft lbs of torque on the lubricated bolts with your cheater. That gives a clamping force of about 30,000 lbs per bolt or 60,000 pounds of clamping force on the barrel.
I assumed you needed to torque the barrel nut since the wrench has the square slots for it. Apparently you don't think this is necessary. What are your thoughts on this mater?
Excellent. However I have to remove and replace a pinned barrel on an 1986 Anschutz 1432D in .22 Hornet. How is the headspacing achieved with a pinned barrel pls? I understand there are 2 pins in a channel under the barrel, and that applied heat and a drift punch drive each of them out to remove the barrel. How does one head space the new barrel please? Does the new barrel have to be swaged into the receiver before it is pinned? My gunsmith is suggesting we thread the Anscutz Match 64 action & use a threaded replacement barrel. Everyone seems to hate pinned barrels - most of the gunsmiths here won't touch it because of the pins. They spent a long time telling me how hard it is to drill the single pin out, because they put it on a rotary table and one side read 11 degrees and the other 13 degrees, not knowing there's 2 separate pins that you drive out from inside the channel under the barrel. Obviously I didn't use this guy - if he doesn't know what hes doing i don;t want him anywhere near my rifle. Maybe I will have to contact Anschutz in Germany to find out which barrel to buy and who to get to do the work?.
Ok I know you call that a box end wrench. I'm trying to find the same thing online, is there possibly a different name it would be under? I'm having difficulty locating one.
how do you know which bushing to purchase? all the bushings for barrel vises I have looked in to only give numbers (somthing like #4 or #5 bushing) or they give measurements (1.750") etc. Anyways I was just wondering how to choose the correct one. and where I should measure my barrel etc to ensure I buy the correct bushing.
Thanks for the video. I'm thinking about changing my 338 lapua barrel to a precision stainless match grade bull barrel. I really want to put the best barrel for ELR shooting. I see many people using shilen barrels. They are one of the best from the research I've done. Do you have any suggestions on other manufacturers? Take care and hopefully I'll be hearing from you soon. Thanks
Excellent presentation! My only question is, would you ever run the barrel nut down with a torque wrench to a specific poundage, like you would with an AR platform?
Well this may be a "newbie" question but I'm going to put it out there anyways. I have a Savage 111 action in 30-06. I like the action and I like the caliber. The issue I have is changing (and Finding) a heavier profiled barrel than the "pencil" profile that it comes with. Is there a way to keep the same caliber and upgrade the barrel profile on a savage rifle?
You bet! Barrel manufacturers like Shilen can cut any of their barrel contours for any chamber. You could order a .30-06 in Varmint or Bull profiles if you wanted. You can also select a twist rate for your favorite bullet weight.
I have been looking for that type of wrench for awhile. Adjustable box-end wrench on google search does not show your kind. Where did you get them and are they called something else?Jim
The method is the same; you just need a different wrench. The new barrel nut has a hole punched in the underside. The correct wrench is basically a smooth semicircle with a single post. It's a lot like the buffer tube removal tool on an AR-15 armorer's wrench.
Those look like 3/4" fine thread bolts, and a pretty rigid vise, so you're applying in the neighborhood of 10,000-15,000lbs of force per bolt. So about 20-30,000 lbs of pressure, total.
Back to Basics Show Well I would love to but I live in the UK and we have very strict laws so although it is possible to do the above if your a shop/gun dealer for the ordinary shooter like me it becomes complicated, police/certificates plus proof house after the work has been carried out etc. May be one day. Thank you
We're glad you liked it, Tyrian! Hopefully this will help you build a dream rifle. Right now I'm working on a .243 for varminting. It was .3MOA accurate before; the upgrades might tighten it up even further. At the very least, the laminate stock I'm making should help ME be more accurate.
The force you applied to that Barrel vise is probably excessive for a Savage action. Savage actions are pretty easy to disassemble. Now a Remington 700 action that's never been apart, I will say yes, use that much force
Patrick Hanrahan It all depends upon your barrel configuration. If you are purchasing a new barrel for your rifle, you can probably select the chambering and twist rate to accomplish your end goals. The best way to go about this is to first decide what your rifle's purpose will be - varminting, hunting, target shooting, etc. Then select a cartridge to match that purpose. Pick a bullet weight and shape that addresses that further addresses that purpose. Then finally select a twist rate that complements the bullet. Remember that longer bullets, shorter barrels, and slower projectiles require faster twist rates.
Twist rate is determined by the number of turns in x". If you have a 1-8" twist and swap out for another with 1-8" twist, the rate will not change; additionally, the twist rate is not determined by barrel length per se. In general, the faster the twist rate (1-7" is "faster" than 1-8"), the heavier bullet you will need to accomplish proper rotation. Too slow a twist and your bullet will not stabilize. Too fast, and it will potentially shed its jacket in flight due to rotational inertia. For example, a .223 w/ a 1-7" twist rate can cause very light bullets to seemingly "explode" mid-flight. This is because the rotational inertia is too great for the strength of the jacket. Most twist rates have a range of bullet weights they can support. 1-9" or 1-8" for .223 would be a good middle of the road; for .308, 1-11.25" or 1-10" is a good one for most precision shooting. etc.
@@johnwaddell4107 Turn it 8 times if you want an 8 in 1 twist rate, turn it 7 times if you want a 7 to 1 twist rate. That makes it easy, I don't even have to change barrels, just adjust it and shoot away.
Thanks, Jim! We'll have to show some more Savage work. We can do some good illustrations of glass bedding and pillar bedding, as well as full laminate stock builds.
In my experience the barrel nuts can be real easy some times and real difficult other times. It seems that newer rifles are built with less torque on the barrel nut from the factory than older ones. A real factor is if you have a smooth nut versus the slotted nut. A smooth nut will require a different wrench and can some times be tough to get good purchase on. Only the target actions are large shank, all other actions are small shank.
You will need to change the bolt head for 300 WSM. It's an easy job; all you really need is the replacement bolt head and an Allen wrench. switchbarrel.com/BOLTHEAD.htm
Whew...tough question. It's been a looong time. You can get the vise bushings from Brownell's now, though. They have a wide variety of profiles available.
Brilliant idea! There are some amazing rigs out there that are based on the Stevens action. It's cheap, just as easy to work with as a Savage, and it accepts some good triggers like the Rifle Basix. You might like reading about Jerry Teo's 6.5 Mystic on 6mmBR.com. And as for me, I've put together a .20 Practical varminter using a laminate stock blank, a Stevens action, and a Shilen SS barrel.
I suggest people starting out get a four lug barrel vice, than you don't have to crank the bolts with a pipe on a wench.my goodness, and wrap the barrel with leather to keep from rotating.
Great Job!!! I just bought a model 10 FCP McMillan in .308, Could I put on a .243 with out having to change the bolt or anything else. Do you know if any of the top barrel makers produce custom barrels for this action?
Yes and Yes! All you need to switch your rifle to .243 is a new barrel. Everything else is exactly the same. Shilen, Bartlein, Criterion, Pac-Nor, McGowen, ER Shaw, and Douglas all make barrels for the Savage action. You can get pretty much anything you want in terms of barrel steel, contour, length, and twist rate.
Nice demo, very informative without any extraneous or confusing information. It would seem a tech savvy guy like yourself would have a a set of six point sockets, half inch ratchet, breaker bar and a torque wrench, n'est ce pas? While obviously not necessary, just surprising you didn't use them.
I lost the will to watch anymore when the multi nut killer and Texes oil line came out....WHY do so mane films coming out of the USA use such crude tool,,,,
Idk, I’m a yank, and those tools look like the tools they use for dentistry in your country. We certainly know how to apply precision machining when applicable.
Thanks for posting. It' a great video, but MAN!!! You got the barrel vise so OVERLY tight. I'd be afraid to shoot that barrel. Also an impact gun set to a specific torque would work better and faster than your crazy wrench and highly inappropriate "cheater pipe".
you want to do a professional or at least semi professional job, go to sears and purchase a socket and extended ratchet instead of a universal wrench and and a "cheater" bar aka a pipe and maybe people might take your videos a little more serious, jeez have some pride in your work
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
This is the best video out there for learning how to use the tools. I'm doing a barrel swap and seeing the "go/no go" tools in a clear video with very easy to understand comments is a major, major help. Thank you.
I’m getting ready to swap my 30’06 barrel out for a 35 Whelen..on a Savage Axis. Wish I had those shims..ER Shaw made the new barrel and I went with them because they include a barrel wrench and go/no-go gauges. Your video really helps me to visualize the process and I’ll keep my iPad handy so I can refer back to it. I’ve always wanted a bolt action in this caliber…have had an H&R Handi Rifle in this caliber for about 20 years. Never swapped a barrel before, that’s why I’m starting simple and cheap. Thanks for the video.
How did it turn out? I’m looking at buying a 110 storm to do the exact same thing to
@ sorry, I just got the notification of your comment 10 months after you made it! It went GREAT! The barrel is quite heavy, but it’s amazingly easy to install correctly and accuracy is better than I’d imagined. About 1” at 100 yds. I had to inlet the stock a mite, but did that easily with an old fixed-blade knife that’s lived in a drawer for 20 years.
@ I got a bear tag in Idaho and plan to use my Whelen
Terrific video. Very well done and not a lot of background or filler info. I've always wanted know the steps of removing and installing a barrel on the Savage. Great job!
Thanks for the video. Because of your video, and a few others on ,YT I have the knowledge to safely re-barrel a few Savage and Stevens rifles. So far I have installed 07-08 and a 260 Rem. Today I am planning to install a 250 Savage barrel that I purchased from Jerry Teo at Mystic Precision.
One of the issues with changing barrels that makes my eyes twitch and my brain itch is that it is impossible to "index" the written information to show up where it normally does on the side of the barrel. The indexing is totally dependent on where the Go Gauge fits. As luck would have it both of the rifles that I re-barreled ended up with the caliber, manufacturer info facing down towards the stock. Just have to live with it or find a way to get the barrel engraved.
the square holes in the locking collar wrench are for a breaker bar and then a torque wrench when tighten the locking collar. when using the torque wrench you want at a right angle to the wrench to get the proper torque.
Really great video. I’m going to do this myself for the first time in the near future and this is the perfect tutorial. Thanks.
Good Vid, I'd like to add that replacement barrel nut's for the savage and the elusive ruger American are available for order at pacific gage and tool.
What a great video on how to do this. Thank you very much for filming this and posting it. Great work.
Best video I've seen and start a journey from
Thank you for the years of experience
Great short to the point video that shows & describes the process so anyone with minimal tools can re-barrel a Savage. Glad I found it & plan to use it as a guide from now on. Lubricant is a great idea. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for taking the mystery out of this. Good job even made it simple for old guy like me!
Great Video! Awesome to see other people taking advantage of the barrel switching system!
It's amazingly easy to create the exact rifle you want. The rifle I'm currently working on is a .20 Practical. Not exactly a factory chambering.
I would recommend using a torque wrench to ensure a safe build, especially if this is your first barrel swap. I simply don't mind torquing by feel since I've built and rebuilt these rifles so many times. A few taps of the mallet and the barrel nut is plenty tight.
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The "factory" goop is likely anti-seize compound. I also like to put some on the threads when I reassemble the barrel because it has a much higher temperature tolerance than petroleum based pubs
notice the square holes below the teeth on the wrench???? those are for a breaker handle either 3/8 or 1/2 (I cant tell) and once you have the jam nut loose you can remove the receiver , its not as hard as you make it look plus you'll be closer to your setting once you put it together
Thank you so much for this video, I have an old 10fp pre-accutrigger that I want to convert to 458 SOCOM. This video is perfect and well demonstrated.
Gabe Hartman - What a fun idea! Does that have the same Head diameter as .308-based cartridges?
Back to Basics Show
Yes it is a heavy barreled 308, a model from about 13 years old. An accurate rifle but heavy and I have other platforms that can fill it's designated roll.
Please share when you've built it! I would love to see the end result. I've never seen a .458 SOCOM bolt-action; only short-barreled ARs.
Beautiful work
Thank you for the video, I learned a lot.
I put a piece of blue painters tape on the user side of the wrenck with an arrow showing 'tighten; and one showing 'loosen'. Takes the guess out of it.
Thanks for the comments, Nick! I can see by the impressive video resume on your channel that you do your gunsmithing "by the book." Or perhaps "from the armchair" or "in your mind." Since my very accurate rifles languish under the strain of being built with substandard tools, I have decided to cut them all down for scrap and swear to never again attempt to do anything real. I will instead follow your lead and craft perfect weapons in my imagination from the safety of my mom's basement.
Nick must be a real asshole.
17:28 why do you keep replacing the barrel nut wrench? Just spin it 360°
He explains that he would but the reloading press is in the way.
simple simon. Thanks for the easy to follow demo.
A few feet of steel pipe can work wonders. There are definitely times to use only precision tools, like when you're torquing a valve cover on an engine. And then there are times when you're just ratcheting down a heavy-duty vise with bolts as thick as your thumb. Good luck on your project! Consider showing it off in a video response!
Excellent demo. I enjoyed watching.
Thanks, Joseph! Now go forth and build a rifle! :D
From my research the barrel nut with the wrench should be torqued to 35ftlb. Clamping down on the barrel that much is excessive. If the insert was made from Delrin then there would be no chance of marking the barrel and the Delrin would provide plenty of grip when the nuts were torqued to 100ftpb.
Great vid and thanks for taking the time to upload. Will you be making more videos on different Makes?
Just put some channelocks on that trigger and spin it off. 😂 Just kidding.
Awesome video!!!
Outstanding video sir
Super job b2bs! now I understand this headspace thing and funny enough, am going to use your cheater bar technique on those tight ass lugnuts I am struggling with. Talk about timing huh? Don't mind the haters bro .... wish I had bought the universal wrench at Canadian Tire last night instead of the 32mm socket and rachet which cost me $42
Great video. 64,000 hits nice job. It was very helpful, Can you use a plumbers wrench to get the new smooth style barrel nut off? Then change to the slotted style you have in the video. I know they make a clamp. They look like they might slip.
Its probably Copper anti sieze so that the nut does not seize over time and many heatings . Not an adhesive, FWIW.
What did you make your shims out of? I'd like to get some. Thanks
Thanks, thinking about buying a $199.00 Savage 200 in 270? To build a long range rifle in what caliber would you suggest? Your instruction makes it look like a 65yr old shop teacher could handle it. Just getting into long range shooting. The Savage 200 has a light barrel on it. I think 1-10 twist. I just read the rest of your comments and you are a wealth of info. I've found the right person to take advice from. Thanks again for any suggestions. Paul
Paul Frank - I've done a Stevens 200 build. It's a great way to go. You'll have quite a few excellent options for long-range work. .300 Win Mag might be a good choice; brass is plentiful, range is fantastic, and there are tons of projectiles to choose from. You can shoot 147-grain FMJs on the cheap, and 220-grain match bullets for precision. As long as you have a 1-10 twist, those heavy bullets will run great. Another advantage of the .30-caliber bore will be the bounty of silencers that will fit.
Good stuff. Very informative
Where the heck can you find a Savage 340 barrel nut wrench?
Nice video...my only critique is the lack of fast forward during certain slow repetitive parts that make us impatient types a little crazy...
COULD YOU USE THAT TYPE OF WRENCH FOR A Marlin XL7 BARREL?
Wouldn’t a torque wrench be more accurate on vise. Main question is how do you know the front sight and bolt are aligned correctly?
you made it look easy.. ive been contemplating buying a savage receiver and getting a made for savage shilen barrel a little longer than the savage stock barrels. So are all the long actions interchangeable? Where would a guy get the parts for the bolt head?? Since I'm looking to go 25-06 I'm guessing their a little harder to find so I'd probably buy a used 270 or 30-06 and throw on a 25-06 barrel. I reload and stuff so adding more tools are no biggy I'm just a little confused how there is no slop in the receiver when changing to a different cartridge?? Anyway, very informative video!
There are a few places to find replacement bolt heads. Here's one: switchbarrel.com/BOLTHEAD.htm Purchasing a .30-06 or .270 is a perfect starting point for a .25-06. Just make sure that Shilen or one of the other barrel manufacturers provides a barrel with the specs you want. And as long as you use a correct headspace gage when swapping barrels, you should have no problems with slop in the chamber. One extra note - you can step away from a common chamber if you want. Shilen will cut .25-06, but will also cut several improved chambers like .25-06 AI.
on a savage model 11 30-06 could you replace the bolt face and instal 300weatherby mag barrel
Great video! Thank you so much for sharing your expertise. Here's a technical question: How do you make sure the markings on the barrel are properly indexed after installation so they can be read when the barreled action is placed in the stock? This may be a dumb question but I'm concerned about the placement of these markings either above or below the line of the sock after correct head spacing. I intend to use a custom barrel from Bartlien, Douglas, or the like. Thank you so much!
Good question! It has been my experience so far that a properly headspaced barrel will naturally index the text to its appropriate position. I can't say that it will always work out this way; I suppose it depends upon the barrel manufacturer having the foresight to stamp the barrel correctly. But the Savage action is a standard length, and any chamber will be cut within rather close tolerances. I would expect everything to line up rather uniformly. I could be wrong, though.
This was a great video for me as my 1st long gun purchase was ack while i was still green "completely" to firearms.Well as a young teen i did shoot clays and .22's at targets.They were my grandfathers guns but i just didnt get into at that age to be honest i was just getting into girls! LOL Well i went into the service strait out of high scool as we did back in the early 80s.But after i got out i just never seemed to get into the shooting again?I didnt hunt but i did like shooting.But after the service i didnt have a taste for it for a few years.Anywho flash forward to the middle of Obama's 1st term and our sleepy quiet little town in the burbs had about 1/2 dozen home invasions so i felt the need to got handgun for home protection and that led to me wanting to get into local longer range rifles shoots.Been having lots of fun to win a case of beer or a dinner out for the wife and I.lol But i purchased my Savage Axis I in 6.5Creedmoor as they were just coming out with the Axis II lol ....shoulda,woulda,coulda,lol well i have been looking for a good chassis for a more pleasing looking rifle as well as add a bit of accuracy as the claims say and a better functioning firearm.Is there any suggestions that you can make for a type and brand of chassis for my Axis I in 6.5Creedmoor?I love the round but it makes for a bit of frustration when looking for anything aftermarket to upgrade this rifle?:>/ so please be good enough to offer me a direction?hehe
Try choate chassis,e Arthur Brown,what I have on my 110FP
This video alone makes me want to buy savages...
Just a WAG, but it looks like the bolts that clamp the barrel are 3/4-16 thread. Also guessing that you are putting about 300 ft lbs of torque on the lubricated bolts with your cheater. That gives a clamping force of about 30,000 lbs per bolt or 60,000 pounds of clamping force on the barrel.
I assumed you needed to torque the barrel nut since the wrench has the square slots for it. Apparently you don't think this is necessary. What are your thoughts on this mater?
Excellent.
However I have to remove and replace a pinned barrel on an 1986 Anschutz 1432D in .22 Hornet. How is the headspacing achieved with a pinned barrel pls?
I understand there are 2 pins in a channel under the barrel, and that applied heat and a drift punch drive each of them out to remove the barrel.
How does one head space the new barrel please?
Does the new barrel have to be swaged into the receiver before it is pinned?
My gunsmith is suggesting we thread the Anscutz Match 64 action & use a threaded replacement barrel. Everyone seems to hate pinned barrels - most of the gunsmiths here won't touch it because of the pins.
They spent a long time telling me how hard it is to drill the single pin out, because they put it on a rotary table and one side read 11 degrees and the other 13 degrees, not knowing there's 2 separate pins that you drive out from inside the channel under the barrel.
Obviously I didn't use this guy - if he doesn't know what hes doing i don;t want him anywhere near my rifle.
Maybe I will have to contact Anschutz in Germany to find out which barrel to buy and who to get to do the work?.
Ok I know you call that a box end wrench. I'm trying to find the same thing online, is there possibly a different name it would be under? I'm having difficulty locating one.
how do you know which bushing to purchase? all the bushings for barrel vises I have looked in to only give numbers (somthing like #4 or #5 bushing) or they give measurements (1.750") etc.
Anyways I was just wondering how to choose the correct one. and where I should measure my barrel etc to ensure I buy the correct bushing.
Thanks for the video. I'm thinking about changing my 338 lapua barrel to a precision stainless match grade bull barrel. I really want to put the best barrel for ELR shooting. I see many people using shilen barrels. They are one of the best from the research I've done. Do you have any suggestions on other manufacturers? Take care and hopefully I'll be hearing from you soon. Thanks
Excellent presentation! My only question is, would you ever run the barrel nut down with a torque wrench to a specific poundage, like you would with an AR platform?
What action wrench are you? I don't want to buy a weak action wrench that deforms after one use!
Can a longer barrel be put on a 7mm Mag Remington [say 39/40"] with mussel back/flash hider?
Well this may be a "newbie" question but I'm going to put it out there anyways. I have a Savage 111 action in 30-06. I like the action and I like the caliber. The issue I have is changing (and Finding) a heavier profiled barrel than the "pencil" profile that it comes with. Is there a way to keep the same caliber and upgrade the barrel profile on a savage rifle?
You bet! Barrel manufacturers like Shilen can cut any of their barrel contours for any chamber. You could order a .30-06 in Varmint or Bull profiles if you wanted. You can also select a twist rate for your favorite bullet weight.
super thank you for your insight.
I have been looking for that type of wrench for awhile. Adjustable box-end wrench on google search does not show your kind. Where did you get them and are they called something else?Jim
Any idea on how to change the barrels in the newer savages with the nut without the groves?
The method is the same; you just need a different wrench. The new barrel nut has a hole punched in the underside. The correct wrench is basically a smooth semicircle with a single post. It's a lot like the buffer tube removal tool on an AR-15 armorer's wrench.
Great video. Subbed.
Very good! Thanks.
Those look like 3/4" fine thread bolts, and a pretty rigid vise, so you're applying in the neighborhood of 10,000-15,000lbs of force per bolt.
So about 20-30,000 lbs of pressure, total.
Superb video. thank you
Thanks for the compliment! I hope this helps you build a fun rifle.
Back to Basics Show Well I would love to but I live in the UK and we have very strict laws so although it is possible to do the above if your a shop/gun dealer for the ordinary shooter like me it becomes complicated, police/certificates plus proof house after the work has been carried out etc. May be one day.
Thank you
Sorry to hear it. Keep fighting, Alan. I know there are a lot of good, freedom-loving folks in the UK. We're standing with you.
Many thanks
Great video! Thank you sir!
We're glad you liked it, Tyrian! Hopefully this will help you build a dream rifle. Right now I'm working on a .243 for varminting. It was .3MOA accurate before; the upgrades might tighten it up even further. At the very least, the laminate stock I'm making should help ME be more accurate.
can you rebbarrel savage model 111 30-06 to 35 whelen 458 win mag 375hand h
whats the largest caliber you could put on a savage model 110 30-06 long action rifle
The force you applied to that Barrel vise is probably excessive for a Savage action. Savage actions are pretty easy to disassemble. Now a Remington 700 action that's never been apart, I will say yes, use that much force
I'm no gun Smith but I believe a torque lubricant would be better
If i switch barrels will the twist rate change?
Patrick Hanrahan It all depends upon your barrel configuration. If you are purchasing a new barrel for your rifle, you can probably select the chambering and twist rate to accomplish your end goals. The best way to go about this is to first decide what your rifle's purpose will be - varminting, hunting, target shooting, etc. Then select a cartridge to match that purpose. Pick a bullet weight and shape that addresses that further addresses that purpose. Then finally select a twist rate that complements the bullet. Remember that longer bullets, shorter barrels, and slower projectiles require faster twist rates.
Twist rate is determined by the number of turns in x". If you have a 1-8" twist and swap out for another with 1-8" twist, the rate will not change; additionally, the twist rate is not determined by barrel length per se. In general, the faster the twist rate (1-7" is "faster" than 1-8"), the heavier bullet you will need to accomplish proper rotation. Too slow a twist and your bullet will not stabilize. Too fast, and it will potentially shed its jacket in flight due to rotational inertia. For example, a .223 w/ a 1-7" twist rate can cause very light bullets to seemingly "explode" mid-flight. This is because the rotational inertia is too great for the strength of the jacket. Most twist rates have a range of bullet weights they can support. 1-9" or 1-8" for .223 would be a good middle of the road; for .308, 1-11.25" or 1-10" is a good one for most precision shooting. etc.
Just don’t twist it on more turns than you want😂😂😂😂of course I just couldn’t resist that.
@@johnwaddell4107 Turn it 8 times if you want an 8 in 1 twist rate, turn it 7 times if you want a 7 to 1 twist rate. That makes it easy, I don't even have to change barrels, just adjust it and shoot away.
I changed the barrel of a Savage 110 from 7MM Rem Mag to 30-06 with a Shilen barrel/ Great shooter and the 30-06 is a lot more economical to shoot.
You still have the 7mm barrel. I have 06 now and want to swap to 7mm
Thanks. Very good vid.
Thanks, Jim! We'll have to show some more Savage work. We can do some good illustrations of glass bedding and pillar bedding, as well as full laminate stock builds.
Back to Basics Show
Please let me know when you do a bedding vid. Thanks again.
nice....way easier then anything else
Who makes the adjustable box end wrench and where can I find one??
I put in "Super multi wrench" on Ebay and it was the first one to come up!
Can you swap the barrel nut without problems?
How to tell large from Small Shank?
great vid otherwise
In my experience the barrel nuts can be real easy some times and real difficult other times. It seems that newer rifles are built with less torque on the barrel nut from the factory than older ones. A real factor is if you have a smooth nut versus the slotted nut. A smooth nut will require a different wrench and can some times be tough to get good purchase on. Only the target actions are large shank, all other actions are small shank.
Phu Vet pl
I have a savage model 11 in 243 win can it be swap to a 300 Winchester short mag do i have to change the bolt
You will need to change the bolt head for 300 WSM. It's an easy job; all you really need is the replacement bolt head and an Allen wrench. switchbarrel.com/BOLTHEAD.htm
Where did you get your box of different size of barrel shims?
Whew...tough question. It's been a looong time. You can get the vise bushings from Brownell's now, though. They have a wide variety of profiles available.
does anyone know the outside diameter and length of the barrel nut?
Is a vise like yours still available anywhere that you know of?
I own, and really like the $59.95 model by Viper. www.pmatool.com/barrel-vise-by-viper/
Brilliant idea! There are some amazing rigs out there that are based on the Stevens action. It's cheap, just as easy to work with as a Savage, and it accepts some good triggers like the Rifle Basix. You might like reading about Jerry Teo's 6.5 Mystic on 6mmBR.com. And as for me, I've put together a .20 Practical varminter using a laminate stock blank, a Stevens action, and a Shilen SS barrel.
I suggest people starting out get a four lug barrel vice, than you don't have to crank the bolts with a pipe on a wench.my goodness, and wrap the barrel with leather to keep from rotating.
What size lug does my savage 111 7 rem mag have?
Great Job!!!
I just bought a model 10 FCP McMillan in .308, Could I put on a .243 with out having to change the bolt or anything else. Do you know if any of the top barrel makers produce custom barrels for this action?
Yes and Yes! All you need to switch your rifle to .243 is a new barrel. Everything else is exactly the same. Shilen, Bartlein, Criterion, Pac-Nor, McGowen, ER Shaw, and Douglas all make barrels for the Savage action. You can get pretty much anything you want in terms of barrel steel, contour, length, and twist rate.
Instead of a mallet, use a half inch ratchet, thats what the squares are for.
u need to hold the receiver not the barrel to loosen or titn barrel nut
these is a big big pipe
Ervin Adinata Only the finest tools for precision work.
Nice demo, very informative without any extraneous or confusing information. It would seem a tech savvy guy like yourself would have a a set of six point sockets, half inch ratchet, breaker bar and a torque wrench, n'est ce pas? While obviously not necessary, just surprising you didn't use them.
It really bothers me to watch that "Wrench" used....... lol
Boy, my barrel nut isn't coming off that easy....
I finally got it off.
You should get a narrower cheater bar!
That’s not a pipe… THIS is a pipe.
Nice Crocks.
righty tighty lefty loosey
Buy only a go-gauge after setting just put a piece of tape on the end of it now you have a no-go-gauge
you just made my job so much cheaper...yeah
I see a lot of the wrong or hackish tols, otherwise nice
over kill on securing the vice down.
I lost the will to watch anymore when the multi nut killer and Texes oil line came out....WHY do so mane films coming out of the USA use such crude tool,,,,
Idk, I’m a yank, and those tools look like the tools they use for dentistry in your country.
We certainly know how to apply precision machining when applicable.
Not exactly a quick change barrel system...
Thanks for posting. It' a great video, but MAN!!! You got the barrel vise so OVERLY tight. I'd be afraid to shoot that barrel. Also an impact gun set to a specific torque would work better and faster than your crazy wrench and highly inappropriate "cheater pipe".
We can clearly see by the state of your bench, you Got Out Of gunsmithing, what are you doin now ?
You need a bigger cheater pipe. Lol
Dirty and not neatly work
you want to do a professional or at least semi professional job, go to sears and purchase a socket and extended ratchet instead of a universal wrench and and a "cheater" bar aka a pipe and maybe people might take your videos a little more serious, jeez have some pride in your work
I thought all Savage model 12s were large shank.