Always enjoy your videos, especially this one with the Peak District looking great. I usually expose for the highlights using the back button set for exposure ie point the camera at the highlights, hold down the back button, then compose and shoot; bring up the shadow in post.
Actually really glad you did this video in a snowy environment. Good example of an exception to common technique that I'd probably never pick up where I live (snows 1/4inch every 2 years), and would only learn the hard way.
Just another great, informative video, James... Although I have to say that my attention was mainly on the weather creeping up behind you, and whether (!) you'd get to the end before you were engulfed in a snowstorm. You always make me smile.
I'm new to the whole Camera world, my main focus has been making my videos better, but I need to start shifting to photography, because I just don't seem to get it, which is hard because I've always been very creative. I can make the subject look good, it's everything else, like composition & using other objects to enhance the subject, that's escaping me... I really appreciate all this help, thanks... Have a great day, take it easy...
missing highlights seem weird because our eyes always try to adjust to the brightest light entering the iris. we don't often 'see' overexposed details in real life unless conditions are very very bright. thanks for the video!
Those of us that cut our teeth shooting chromes, back in the film days, learned real quick what you can do with a slide with blown out highlights. Frisbee. But the lessons learned could be applied to digital, well, except for that frisbee part, when trying to rescue an overexposed chrome you could take a close look at the slide and in those blown out areas, there was literally nothing there. All the overexposed silver salts had been washed away in development and you just had a clear piece of acetate. The opposite was true about the underexposed shadow areas. All the detail and color information was still on the film. It was just all piled on top of each other. Sorry about showing up late for the party. I just found your channel and it looks like it will be fun catching up. I used to teach photography and somewhere around here I've got a list of beginner mistakes that I've compiled over the years. Many of them I made, too.
Thank you for posting this. I wish I had known all that six years ago... Keep it up! One thing I also had to learn the really hard way is that camera meters are stupid pieces of junk and daft as a brush. They want to "normalise" everything to a neutral grey, which is exactly why pictures of snowy landscapes often end up flat, underexposed and generally boring. An excellent way around this is to set the camera to spot metering mode and to then pick a spot that you want to expose for. The way I do it is to shoot for the shadows (most of the time anyway). I meter the exposure in the area that I think should be darkest part that still holds some detail. I then go one or two stops down from that value, eg when the meter shows me 1/60th for my darkest area, I set the shutter speed to 1/90 or 1/125. It's basically a boiled-down and digital version of Ansel Adams' zone system, which hails from the days of black and white film photography. It may seem old fashioned, convoluted and complicated but it still holds up well for digital work. It does take some getting used to and it is definitely easier to just do it than it is explaining it. This is also why I find that everybody who is really serious about photography should at least have tried to shoot b&w film and dipping their toes in the zone system. It definitely trains your eye and it's good fun - but it also carries a risk of developing into a serious case of GAS and suddenly you find yourself lugging ludicrously big and heavy cameras about the place. Anyway, thanks again for posting this video :-)
I grew up on zone system... something else you can add to your evaluation of capture on screen that's independent of visual variations, is - if you use Lightroom Classic - hover your mouse over the histogram, right-click and change it to display the L*a*b color values - then you can move the mouse around on the image you'll see the luminance value and be able to map that value to your zone placement intentions at time of shooting... it's also really handy for inspecting the actual brightness / darkness of areas to adjust re: make sure your printing process can hold them too...
There are many (and after some testing, I tend to agree) that suggest with MFT to over expose to the right - but not to clip. That way you can pull down the highlights and retain detail. If you under expose, you end up with noise/grain when you bring up the shadows.
That mistake at the end was hilarious. I've been watching your videos for a few months and I've decided to take my camera out and about tomorrow to the park.
@@JamesPopsysPhoto Oh, I did. I walked around for 2 hours and I'm already exhausted. I got some okish photos. It gives me greater appreciation for what you do.
Hi James, thanks for sharing. Some cameras also have a “highlight saving” metering mode, exposing for the highlights. It can slightly underexpose images but a great feature when the priority is really not to clip any highlights. Also, Panasonic is about to release full frame cameras. I’ve been watching your videos for a while and overall size and weight seemed to be one of the reasons you went for the G9. Are you sticking to it or should we expect you playing with an S1/S1R soon? Being sponsored by Lumix, you may actually already have in hand but I guess we’ll know after the official announcement.
Hi James! Are you still happy with your M43 setup with those fullframe cameras slowly arriving on the market, are you not tempted to jump to FF? Do you still think M43 is relevant?
If I'm in snow, I just put the exposure compensation up by two thirds of a stop and that seems to work best for my Panasonic bridge camera. I don't bother with the cameras snow setting, like you say James, it makes it underexposed. When the camera manufactures put a snow setting on their cameras, why don't they set it to up the exposure a bit above what it thinks is right, then everyone will have well exposed snow photos.
That's what happens with my photos lol, I have problems with losing detail in the sky! Especially in certain conditions. I sympathise with all photographers with lighting conditions. Don't know how many times I've got to a location and then suddenly the light changes! when you have hiked a long distance!
Our eyes are used to dark shadows and can fill in what’s “missing”. We aren’t used to having to do that with highlights. Day to day, only looking straight at the sun or car headlights etc. “blows out the highlights”. And usually it’s the sky that gets blown out. This makes every sky look like a miserable, overcast day. Not at all what you want for landscape photography (my excuse for being crap).
Hey chris, changing shutter speed, aperture and ISO all affect the EV, or the amount of light hitting the sensor. So when you change EV, it alters one of these things. Which one depends on which mode you're in :)
You very welcome my friend ! l hope my youtube channel "Optical Power" inspire and motivate you to continue your great projects and get better everyday ! Thank you for watching and for your comments... and thank you for sharing ! Start where you are. Use what you have. Do what you can. You can never quit. Winners never quit, and quitters never win. God Bless you.
Get and use an incident meter to base your exposure around bright subjects, then protect yourself by ETTR adjustment. Works like a champ and gives your shadows a lot more chance to hold some details you can work with... works great if you shoot raw. (nice sheep btw).
This is good advice if all you shoot is JPEG. If you shoot RAW most cameras actually underexpose to avoid clipping highlights. In this case you are actually not getting the most out of your camera. To get best results you have to calibrate your meter or buy a modern Sekonic light meter and calibrate it to your camera and it's specific dynamic range (I'm going down a whole other rabbit hole).
Great video as usual JP. Could you help me differentiate between Overexposing (the focus of this video) and ETTR? When does ETTR become overexposure? Thanks
@@JamesPopsysPhoto But yeah you're right. In general you should expose for the highlights because modern cameras are so good at pulling back details in the shadows
My understanding is that when you are in the snow you have to overexpose because the camera always try to get an average exposure of 18% grey, which makes the snow to look greyish...
Kind of enjoyed the fact that the weather behind you worked like a reverse loading progress bar. By the time the video was done, there was no more background.
Can I just add one thing regarding how to judge if an an image is exposed correctly or not please? DON'T do what some people do and use the image on the screen for this purpose.You really can't rely on it giving an accurate rendition without being able to allow for ambient lighting conditions or how accurately your eyes are calibrated.
It's a leniency given to artists - if it's dark it's moody - or might might be moody - or they were trying to make it moody. If it's too bright that it makes you wince when you look at it, they got it wrong. It's easiest to accept that a piece of art is trying to be moody than they got it wrong and still put it on show.
My theory is that if you see black you don’t necessarily know that you are missing something you can’t see, but your eye is drawn to blown out highlights and they always stand out as something that is not right?
It all stems from photographers ignorance of how the human eye works. The human eye has potentially an enormous dynamic range but at any one moment it only has 10 stops. We are tolerant of black shadows because that is what we see. We certainly dont see details in shadows in bright daylight because our eyes are dazzled and are adjusting to see detail in the glare. To see in the shadows you have to shield your eyes and have to let your sight adjust for a few minutes. The only photographer of note I have seen who uses this fact correctly is the RUclipsr Valerie Jardin who lifts black level to remove detail from shadows; go check out her channel. The reason the camera meter gets exposure wrong in snow is because it sets the mid point to grey, so it underexposes thinking the snow should be grey ;-)
Well after this video we know what kind of shampoo James uses... Albedo VO5... for that really bright reflective look. If everything other than snow isn't bright, does that make them stupid? 😛 Yes James I watched this video twice a month apart. Like every business, you need return customers. By the way, "histogram", is a social media platform for snakes. You might say, the "highlights" of your day were snow and clouds... The fact that you want to make sure people don't "overexpose" their photos, yet most of those people will put their photos on Instagram or some other social media platform, which I think is the very definition of "over exposure"...
If you shoot film the opposite is the case, if you lose detail in the shadows you can't pull it back in post because your negatives will end up completely clear in those underexposed spots. But your highlights on film are more salvageable. So to nit pick this video is actually "beginner digital photography mistakes". Love your work though!
On negative film - expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights... unless you don't control the developing process. lol Shooting digital is most like holding highlights when you shoot chromes; you shoot ETTR and let shadows fall where they may (or, you make that shot your bright and shoot another ETTL for darks and merge them with hdr type processing...)
That’s not a mistake. Underexposing is a common technique to preserve highlights. You can fix it in post and not lose detail in the shadows or highlights. If you overexpose you aren’t getting that highlight detail back.
Would have been funny if you had been talking about over exposure, in the winter, wearing nothing but bathing trunks. :P Or was I being took literal? Clip your coupons at the supermarket, not your highlights.
America's "Zebras" are known as "Blinkies". But that goes for North America (well, the USA part), not south America, where they may call them "LLamas" ... or something... ; )
Reading the comments, apparently there is a Bulgarian following here. I'm declaring myself too. But this will end abruptly with Brexit, because visas will be required for communication in social media! lol
Any fashion brands looking for a new ambassador? Call me...
looking like that, it is unlikely . . . LoL
😂😂
Yeah, 1983 called actually... lol
what about that 2 pom-pom hat you had ? surely they're on your radar ?
haha, sure - I seem to have an addiction to buying them!
Dude, your videos are at the same time hilarious and instructive, lovely
Thanks mate! :)
Lol yes
Macky Holer because all of those tripod shots were so shaky... 🤨
Always enjoy your videos, especially this one with the Peak District looking great. I usually expose for the highlights using the back button set for exposure ie point the camera at the highlights, hold down the back button, then compose and shoot; bring up the shadow in post.
Nice mate, that's a good way of doing it 🙂
James, Really liked these beginner mistakes videos. Especially appreciate the tips on the histogram and zebra. Very helpful. Thank you!
Actually really glad you did this video in a snowy environment. Good example of an exception to common technique that I'd probably never pick up where I live (snows 1/4inch every 2 years), and would only learn the hard way.
Glad it helped 🙂
Just another great, informative video, James... Although I have to say that my attention was mainly on the weather creeping up behind you, and whether (!) you'd get to the end before you were engulfed in a snowstorm. You always make me smile.
haha, cheers Andy!
Enjoyed the video as always.. Don't ever change!
I've tried many a time to no avail... 🙂👍🏻
Top work James. I enjoyed the fog rolling in at the end! No photos today😉
Cheers mate, still no photos... :)
Subbed for the great "mistake series" and for coming to Bulgaria :)
My second print (Greenland Hut,1of 50!) has been handed to the framer, can't wait. Love the vids and the pics.
I initially mis-read your comment and wondered why you had given your print to a FARMER! 🤭
I'm new to the whole Camera world, my main focus has been making my videos better, but I need to start shifting to photography, because I just don't seem to get it, which is hard because I've always been very creative. I can make the subject look good, it's everything else, like composition & using other objects to enhance the subject, that's escaping me... I really appreciate all this help, thanks... Have a great day, take it easy...
Keep at it Dave, nothing worthwhile is easy, as they say :)
Good video and advice. Very well made as always.
Thanks mate :)
Very useful, I never knew about the histogram, thanks 👍
Great to hear :)
missing highlights seem weird because our eyes always try to adjust to the brightest light entering the iris. we don't often 'see' overexposed details in real life unless conditions are very very bright. thanks for the video!
I'm early! Notifications really worked this time around 😅
Great to hear Matt! :)
Great vid as always and great explanation of the definition of "unintentional" LMAO!
haha, great value for your time I'm sure :)
Thanks James - great video!
Cheers Neil :)
Heyyyy, hope u had fun in Bulgaria, mate! Greetings from a Bulgarian. 😀 Missing your videos btw!
I had lots of fun in Bulgaria thanks 🙂👍🏻
Those of us that cut our teeth shooting chromes, back in the film days, learned real quick what you can do with a slide with blown out highlights. Frisbee. But the lessons learned could be applied to digital, well, except for that frisbee part, when trying to rescue an overexposed chrome you could take a close look at the slide and in those blown out areas, there was literally nothing there. All the overexposed silver salts had been washed away in development and you just had a clear piece of acetate. The opposite was true about the underexposed shadow areas. All the detail and color information was still on the film. It was just all piled on top of each other.
Sorry about showing up late for the party. I just found your channel and it looks like it will be fun catching up. I used to teach photography and somewhere around here I've got a list of beginner mistakes that I've compiled over the years. Many of them I made, too.
Great video and very instructive. I trying to take on photography. Is there any cameras out there you will recommend for a beginner like me? Thanks 🙏🏿
Thank you for posting this. I wish I had known all that six years ago...
Keep it up!
One thing I also had to learn the really hard way is that camera meters are stupid pieces of junk and daft as a brush.
They want to "normalise" everything to a neutral grey, which is exactly why pictures of snowy landscapes often end up flat, underexposed and generally boring.
An excellent way around this is to set the camera to spot metering mode and to then pick a spot that you want to expose for.
The way I do it is to shoot for the shadows (most of the time anyway). I meter the exposure in the area that I think should be darkest part that still holds some detail. I then go one or two stops down from that value, eg when the meter shows me 1/60th for my darkest area, I set the shutter speed to 1/90 or 1/125.
It's basically a boiled-down and digital version of Ansel Adams' zone system, which hails from the days of black and white film photography. It may seem old fashioned, convoluted and complicated but it still holds up well for digital work. It does take some getting used to and it is definitely easier to just do it than it is explaining it.
This is also why I find that everybody who is really serious about photography should at least have tried to shoot b&w film and dipping their toes in the zone system. It definitely trains your eye and it's good fun - but it also carries a risk of developing into a serious case of GAS and suddenly you find yourself lugging ludicrously big and heavy cameras about the place.
Anyway, thanks again for posting this video :-)
I grew up on zone system... something else you can add to your evaluation of capture on screen that's independent of visual variations, is - if you use Lightroom Classic - hover your mouse over the histogram, right-click and change it to display the L*a*b color values - then you can move the mouse around on the image you'll see the luminance value and be able to map that value to your zone placement intentions at time of shooting... it's also really handy for inspecting the actual brightness / darkness of areas to adjust re: make sure your printing process can hold them too...
Awesome tip - I've never done that :)
Cheers Tim!
10:01 minutes of video, i'm proud of you James
haha, thanks!
There are many (and after some testing, I tend to agree) that suggest with MFT to over expose to the right - but not to clip. That way you can pull down the highlights and retain detail. If you under expose, you end up with noise/grain when you bring up the shadows.
It's a fair point :)
That snow storm/fog slowly creeping in the background ... :D
That mistake at the end was hilarious. I've been watching your videos for a few months and I've decided to take my camera out and about tomorrow to the park.
Awesome - enjoy! :)
@@JamesPopsysPhoto Oh, I did. I walked around for 2 hours and I'm already exhausted. I got some okish photos. It gives me greater appreciation for what you do.
Hi James, thanks for sharing. Some cameras also have a “highlight saving” metering mode, exposing for the highlights. It can slightly underexpose images but a great feature when the priority is really not to clip any highlights.
Also, Panasonic is about to release full frame cameras. I’ve been watching your videos for a while and overall size and weight seemed to be one of the reasons you went for the G9. Are you sticking to it or should we expect you playing with an S1/S1R soon? Being sponsored by Lumix, you may actually already have in hand but I guess we’ll know after the official announcement.
My yashica mat has none of those features. But i do use bracketing when it seems usefull
Jump cuts in the last minute, the fog is creeping in on you. Cheers for the great video.
haha, it really did!
Hi James! Are you still happy with your M43 setup with those fullframe cameras slowly arriving on the market, are you not tempted to jump to FF? Do you still think M43 is relevant?
If I'm in snow, I just put the exposure compensation up by two thirds of a stop and that seems to work best for my Panasonic bridge camera. I don't bother with the cameras snow setting, like you say James, it makes it underexposed. When the camera manufactures put a snow setting on their cameras, why don't they set it to up the exposure a bit above what it thinks is right, then everyone will have well exposed snow photos.
That's what happens with my photos lol, I have problems with losing detail in the sky! Especially in certain conditions. I sympathise with all photographers with lighting conditions. Don't know how many times I've got to a location and then suddenly the light changes! when you have hiked a long distance!
Great tips. Also, if you're shooting film negatives, you can safely overexpose quite a bit.
Cheers Jacob, that's true! :)
Thanks James, always wondered what zebra pattern was used for. Nice creeping fog at the end, After effects ? ;)
haha, It'll be years before I figure out After Effects, until then I'll require nature :)
You probably never go out, never seen fog?
Our eyes are used to dark shadows and can fill in what’s “missing”. We aren’t used to having to do that with highlights. Day to day, only looking straight at the sun or car headlights etc. “blows out the highlights”.
And usually it’s the sky that gets blown out. This makes every sky look like a miserable, overcast day. Not at all what you want for landscape photography (my excuse for being crap).
Great explanation :)
Never thought you'd come to my country and shoot a video. :)
I loved it :)
Hi James, thanks for a great video, I'm still confused by EV settings, how is this different from adjusting aperture and ISO? regards Chris
Hey chris, changing shutter speed, aperture and ISO all affect the EV, or the amount of light hitting the sensor. So when you change EV, it alters one of these things. Which one depends on which mode you're in :)
@@JamesPopsysPhoto Morning James, thanks for the help, EV is something that is always coming up in the mavic drone, so much appreciated!
GREAT JOB my friend ! YOUR RUclips CHANNEL IS GREAT !!! JUST KEEP GOING !!
kader ,from Optical Power youtube channel ... Las Vegas
Thanks mate :)
You very welcome my friend ! l hope my youtube channel "Optical Power" inspire and motivate you to continue your great projects and get better everyday ! Thank you for watching and for your comments... and thank you for sharing !
Start where you are. Use what you have. Do what you can.
You can never quit. Winners never quit, and quitters never win.
God Bless you.
Get and use an incident meter to base your exposure around bright subjects, then protect yourself by ETTR adjustment. Works like a champ and gives your shadows a lot more chance to hold some details you can work with... works great if you shoot raw. (nice sheep btw).
Good tip! 🙂
@@JamesPopsysPhoto actually works well in dark environments with bright highlighted subjects too if you can meter at the subject...
This is good advice if all you shoot is JPEG. If you shoot RAW most cameras actually underexpose to avoid clipping highlights. In this case you are actually not getting the most out of your camera. To get best results you have to calibrate your meter or buy a modern Sekonic light meter and calibrate it to your camera and it's specific dynamic range (I'm going down a whole other rabbit hole).
Great video as usual JP.
Could you help me differentiate between Overexposing (the focus of this video) and ETTR?
When does ETTR become overexposure? Thanks
Hey! ETTR only normally becomes a problem when you start hitting the side of the histogram and losing detail :)
@@JamesPopsysPhoto Cheers!
I overexpose only when no detail in sky to get a simple and clean image. Love minimalistic photography
I like doing that too 🙂
@@JamesPopsysPhoto But yeah you're right. In general you should expose for the highlights because modern cameras are so good at pulling back details in the shadows
My understanding is that when you are in the snow you have to overexpose because the camera always try to get an average exposure of 18% grey, which makes the snow to look greyish...
@@rccasgar That's covered in Photography 101.
Hey James. What setting do you typically use for your bracketing? Or, do you change that a lot based on the situation? Cheers!
Hey mate, 3 exposures with a 1 stop gap between each :)
James Popsys thanks Boss!
Kind of enjoyed the fact that the weather behind you worked like a reverse loading progress bar. By the time the video was done, there was no more background.
haha, it made my editing process a bit more interesting too :)
Great advice! I'm sorry that you have such animosity towards us Americans (Yanks)! I don't hold it against you... Keep up the great work!
Brilliant video as usual....my camera doesn't have a zebra pattern, it has an elephant pattern...I think it must be a grey import
haha!
Don't just see the things black and white
Popsys music is like a box of chocolates without the lid.....you never know what you’re gonna get
Hi James, is this Chapel-en-le-Frith, Whaley Bridge area?
Good spot mate! Are you local? 👍🏻
@@JamesPopsysPhoto That iceberg fooled me...
I used live in Whaley Bridge, great part of the world, now in Poynton so not so far.
I really like your dry british humor
I love you 💕
Can I just add one thing regarding how to judge if an an image is exposed correctly or not please? DON'T do what some people do and use the image on the screen for this purpose.You really can't rely on it giving an accurate rendition without being able to allow for ambient lighting conditions or how accurately your eyes are calibrated.
100% true! 👍🏻
I calibrate my eyes once a week.
Do you need a tripod to do bracketing?
Sometimes but for me rarely as the stabilisation on my G9 is so good :)
Nope.
It's a leniency given to artists - if it's dark it's moody - or might might be moody - or they were trying to make it moody. If it's too bright that it makes you wince when you look at it, they got it wrong. It's easiest to accept that a piece of art is trying to be moody than they got it wrong and still put it on show.
That makes sense :)
One of the biggest reasons as to why I went mirrorless. That way I can see what I'm messing up before I mess it up
Me too Josh :)
All cameras today are mirrorless, even DSLRs thanks to a single button near the viewfinder ;)
The houses we live in have lots of shadows, even at daytime. Bright lights are uncomfortable to look at. No mystery here.
Makes sense :)
I love skiing in Bulgaria
Me too :)
Wow James. You were so lucky you didn't hit that iceberg... ;)
haha, tell me about it!
Do you consider switching to full frame Lumix in the future?
Maybe, excited to try it but I love my m43 gear so it'll take some beating :)
I'm aware that your content is not gear focused, but I think it would be lovely to watch you reviewing S1 and S1R :)
Will do 🙂 Soon hopefully!
I agree putting your camera in deep snow is no good
haha, she survived with ease :)
My theory is that if you see black you don’t necessarily know that you are missing something you can’t see, but your eye is drawn to blown out highlights and they always stand out as something that is not right?
That certainly sounds right Sabine :)
It all stems from photographers ignorance of how the human eye works. The human eye has potentially an enormous dynamic range but at any one moment it only has 10 stops. We are tolerant of black shadows because that is what we see. We certainly dont see details in shadows in bright daylight because our eyes are dazzled and are adjusting to see detail in the glare. To see in the shadows you have to shield your eyes and have to let your sight adjust for a few minutes. The only photographer of note I have seen who uses this fact correctly is the RUclipsr Valerie Jardin who lifts black level to remove detail from shadows; go check out her channel. The reason the camera meter gets exposure wrong in snow is because it sets the mid point to grey, so it underexposes thinking the snow should be grey ;-)
Nice tips :)
Well after this video we know what kind of shampoo James uses... Albedo VO5... for that really bright reflective look. If everything other than snow isn't bright, does that make them stupid? 😛 Yes James I watched this video twice a month apart. Like every business, you need return customers. By the way, "histogram", is a social media platform for snakes. You might say, the "highlights" of your day were snow and clouds... The fact that you want to make sure people don't "overexpose" their photos, yet most of those people will put their photos on Instagram or some other social media platform, which I think is the very definition of "over exposure"...
If you shoot film the opposite is the case, if you lose detail in the shadows you can't pull it back in post because your negatives will end up completely clear in those underexposed spots. But your highlights on film are more salvageable. So to nit pick this video is actually "beginner digital photography mistakes". Love your work though!
Gotcha :)
Also as has already been noted, those sheep drone shots are awesome
haha, cheers mate :)
On negative film - expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights... unless you don't control the developing process. lol Shooting digital is most like holding highlights when you shoot chromes; you shoot ETTR and let shadows fall where they may (or, you make that shot your bright and shoot another ETTL for darks and merge them with hdr type processing...)
Do you always travel alone?
This is a digital photography thing, on film the worst thing is the opposite: underexposing
Hey James, next time when you come to Bulgaria, just send me a message 😁
Awesome, will do mate 🙂
In the first 10 comments 🖕
Never felt so alive!
haha!
It's also a beginner mistake to underexpose because they are considering the highlights in an irrelevant part of the image!
True!
That’s not a mistake. Underexposing is a common technique to preserve highlights. You can fix it in post and not lose detail in the shadows or highlights. If you overexpose you aren’t getting that highlight detail back.
There should be a double like button for this video
haha, thanks! :)
What about this thing of expose to the right?
It's a valid technique if you're a fan of using the histogram all the time :)
Gradient tool is hitting from behind
Dark shadows are mysterious. But blown out sky is just like a hole in the ozone layer: it's not good... you don't want to get burned :-)
Anyone else getting Abroad in Japan vibes from his personality?
Why the VERY bright jacket it would have spoilt other photographers photos
So mountain rescue can always find me... :)
The biggest mistake I made as a beginner was beginning.
haha, I've been there :)
Would have been funny if you had been talking about over exposure, in the winter, wearing nothing but bathing trunks. :P Or was I being took literal? Clip your coupons at the supermarket, not your highlights.
Maaaaaaan, I am from Bulgaria, I would have loved to share a beer with you if I only knew you were here :( Damn it ://////
Feel free to remake this video on a white sandy beach....
America's "Zebras" are known as "Blinkies". But that goes for North America (well, the USA part), not south America, where they may call them "LLamas" ... or something... ; )
I like the zebra pattern, but I rather prefer it to be called sheep
haha!
Bulgarian mountain? What?
How long are you going to be here?
Just the weekend unfortunately! But I'll be back :)
I spent the whole video watching the clouds over your shoulder, what did you say?
haha!
I'm not in the UK or America. How am I supposed to be pronouncing zebra?
zeeeeebra. my english grandmother said it that way too..
What he said! 😂
Now that I think of it, Chris Nichols covered this. If memory serves, it was zibra or something like that.
Stripey horse.
Maybe this will help. The correct way to Zebra is to say Sebras as Zebras are not native to the UK.
Biggest beginners mistake is buying a camera (brand) thinking it will make you a photographer...
Yup!
Reading the comments, apparently there is a Bulgarian following here. I'm declaring myself too. But this will end abruptly with Brexit, because visas will be required for communication in social media! lol
I hope not :( Thanks for watching!! :)
🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑 Billions of them. Well, maybe not billions, but quite a few. 🙂
haha, the excitement was palpable! :)
Is this about photographers mistakes or your daily blog of idiotic planning?
Beginner mistakes
It’s pronounced “zebra”, not “zebra.” Ugh.
haha!
You could cut the length of the video in half if you drop all the forced jokes :P
But where's the fun in that...? :)
Deal! 🙂
I was about to complain that there is way too much photography in this video.In my opinion it really should have a lot more forced jokes.