As someone whose first arcade stick case was made of similar box, I've got few suggestions for people considering going this way: 1. Consider the strength of the cover. You dont want the top to flex when in use (for all button controller it's less of an issue, since you're only pushing inwards). So the easiest thing I've found is to actually use the backside of it for all face buttons. Because of the molding and thickness backside is usually more rigid than the top. 2. DO NOT DRILL THE BOX LIKE SHOWN IN THE VIDEO - you'll most likely snap the spaces between button holes. Instead, get a piece of wood and place it underneath the place you're about to drill, so it lays firmly on it (maybe even pushing slightly outwards). Use this method for all buttons. 3. Consider the ribs. The configurable walls, aka ribs, will give more stability to overall structure of your box, so if possible, keep as many as you can. Usually, they do not come up to the top cover, so adding some padding underneath them from the opposite side (between bottom of the box and the wall inlet) is also preferable. 4. Consider wiring and a way to secure your PCB. I've ended up using affer mentioned rib walls to secion out a space for it and added some padding, so it would not rattle inside. 5. If you've already have yours and have face cover stability issues, you can try using simple A4 printer paper, folded in 3-4 times (play around with it) and placed as a tightening strip under the face cover, so that both ends of the paper are ouside the box when it gets closed. I've added two such things along both sides of mine box and it helped. If done correctly, you're supposed to have to force the clips to close. 6. Buy at least two boxes - spare yourself a needless trip to the store ;)
I know this is an old comment, are there any recommendations for a pcb? i just want it to be compatible with pc and also want socd, but i was not willing to spend almost 100 dollars for a brook board because in that case it would be cheaper to get the hitbox already made
I like the DIY idea so can decide on the button placement that works best for my hand and comfort. Would like to see a DIY video installing fight stick (detachable) instead of all buttons.
People have mentioned using a sacrificial board to prevent cracking, but something I haven't seen anyone point out yet: Instead of cutting out the circles in the stencil with an x-acto, just punch a hole in the center of each circle and mark the spot that way. The hole saw bits have a drill in the center anyway, so having the center point marked is more helpful.
I've built several boxes over the years. I've used wood, cardboard and have even tried modifying an existing box. I ended up getting a ready-made case from AliExpress. Unlike all of my previous attempts, despite being made out of parts bought from different vendors, this one looks like a store-bought controller. I did have to modify the box a little, though, since it didn't come with holes for Start, Select, Home, etc. Since the top panel is thick and shiny, I've drilled the holes on the sides of the box. Also, I use a NEUTRIK USB passthrough, which allows me to detach the cable from my controller without opening the box. This is useful in case my cable gets damaged.
I just built my first all button box today! I wired it incorrectly three times, but I'm very happy with the results. Been playing on my keyboard for about a year now, and this is one of the best things I've ever done for myself. I can finally play fighting games on a console!
I want to give a shoutout to the Pico Fighting Board. It's much cheaper than anything Brook makes, just as fast (faster?), and in some ways even more feature rich (built in RGB controller!). If you don't need PS5 support, it's worth looking at.
I'm waiting for my button box running on a Pico Fighting Board to give it a try myself actually. Have heard nothing but good things about it so I'm a good bit excited!
@@GuntanksInSpace Unfortunately it's more difficult to obtain now, because Feral's store selling the pre-soldered version has closed. A real shame. I hope he returns or someone else picks it up.
I empathize with this thread. I have two picos and I just wanted one pfb for an all custom build. I think I might try soldering my pico to a 2040 breakout board and using the mapping software that was made for the pico fighting board.
After drilling the holes, you could use sand paper or a metal file on holes get a cleaner, round look and get rid of those straggly piece of plastic at the same time. Obviously not necessary unless buttons aren't fitting correctly, but still a nice touch if you want a cleaner and more finished look.
I saw your vid of your first cheap box build. It helped me to make a full 4-player arcade to play Smash Bros Ultimate on the Switch with analog control & tilt sticks. Just got past the prototype. Going to be expanding the panel soon. Thank you so much for all you do!
If you left the separators in the box when making the holes it would have better supported the top to help prevent cracking. Good idea though! I have a Brooks board sitting around doing nothing I could repurpose like this
I already ordered the parts for my own Hitbox controller, it should come in early march. I spent a bit over 150$ trying to achieve a price/quality balance (I think I did, I mean at least it's not 250$), and can;rt wait to put everything together and play with my first ever fightstick!
Instead of driling from the top of the box, you should have flip it over, put it on some flat work surface (some plank), then drill from the bottom. That way your plastic wont bend and wont crack. Also those separators inside the box should be used to stifen the interior of the box so it would be nice and stable during play. Also secure the usb cable to the box. You can use sticky plastic with holes for zip ties, and zip tie cable to it. Or you can just drill some small holes in side wall for zip tie and run zip tie through it for the cable. That way it wont came loose when sticky plastic lose adhesive. Also all those loose not conected wires with not insuleted endings should be insulated to preventing short cuting something.
If you don't live in Central Europe or North America or Japan (anywhere with terrible customs duty/tax laws or a rapidly declining economy like here in Turkey) for our intents and purposes this is a SLEEPER controller. It's built on a cheap and diy chassis but the hardware isn't necessarily "cheap". The PCB alone costs around 100$ and you probably can't get traditional buttons shipped to you. It's cheap for a traditional fight stick but it looks cheaper than it is cheap as a controller in general. It's also important to note the market has not explored any really cheap "budget" fight sticks, as the cheap alternatives to fight sticks are keyboards and gamepads lying around in your house. If you desire a hitbox style controller, the cheapest small form factor mechanical keyboard with switches of your choosing will serve you ideally. If you really want to go out of your way to build a proprietary hitbox controller, here's what i can tell you. The cheapest buttons that have potential are probably outemu switches. And not retail ones at that, because buying 10-20 standalone switches is about the same price as buying a used full sized keyboard full of them. Keyboard switches are already preferred in controllers like the snackbox micro and gamerfinger already sells them in the format of a fight stick button for people who want to switch out sanwa buttons or the like. They are silent, durable, consistent and they feel satisfying to use. They are also easy to mod (lubricate etc) so you can go far without spending a lot of money if you're willing to work on the over the span of a few days. As for a PCB, your best bet would be an Arduino Pro Micro, which is a microcontroller designed to be used on HID (human interface device) (including input devices of any kind). You do need to look for code to run on it, especially if you want to give out anything other than keyboard inputs, which leads into the next topic. As long as your hardware is not officially licensed by the manufacturer of the console because licensed hardware from what i gather contains special chips that fulfill a handshake with the console, you cannot get it to work on consoles. As for pc, the pro micro natively uses keyboard inputs, but i'm positive you can run xinput on it so that it doesn't clash with inputs given on an actual keyboard. Keycaps you may wanna look into 3d printing if you want the buttons to sit flush like traditional fight sticks. Same goes for the chassis but you can also make use of boxes like these if you so desire. Usually the dimensions are totally dependant on the casing because the pro micro can fit anywhere and the switches albeit not as slim as the ones in the snackbox micro, are slimmer than arcade buttons. Will most likely require soldering but that's a rather easy skill for most people to pick up. Such is what i perceive to be the real budget solution for places like turkey who fall under 300$ minimum wage. Feel free to contribute or correct in replies if you find necessary.
Can I suggest: 2 pieces of wood and 4 bolts? If you could just leave the sides open and use the bolts as columns to support the top panel. Gotta be more ridged then a plastic pill box. Won’t crack either.
Version 2 came out so nice and clean. Great job Nihongo! You're really making me want to put one together myself. I'm sure I would go out and grab the parts and just do it, but I have to buy online where I'm at. Maybe having to wait for shipping will make this desire fade, hahaha!
I never really thought about using a screw/parts organizer for a controller. Would be cool to get a thinner one with thinner buttons. A non-transparent one would be stronger too and not show the mess inside. I am interested in trying this as I don't have a hitbox yet. If you just play on PC you can just get a $11 usb board. They work perfectly fine.
I'm in the process of building a leverless similar to this, but waiting on the last few 24mm GamerFinger buttons to come in stock...it is taking forever!
If you get a replacement plate or plexi for a different fight stick you could use that to reinforce everything and make it feel more sturdy. Just have to make sure that it will fit onto whatever box you are using.
Can i just say how frikin crazy this is! I bought a muji folio made of pp plastic and am in the process of getting a drill to try this madness out and save money
im making a hitbox style controller atm. I actually have a snackbox micro (i love it its so good) but for more or less fun i thought id make one as well. So I got 2mm steel plate i shaped it mostly allready. i just need to drill the holes anymore. i dont have a 24mm drill atm so thats gona take a moment. and the rest of the box im gona make out of wood. those pieces are also done. just need to paint and put it together.... cant wait untill its ready.
Is it done?? Can you tell me how to get all those wire and stuffs. Im really excited to build one for myself as well. I just started playing tekken for the first time and I really would like to use that arcade movement stick and action buttons .
I wanna make this but put in the ODIN drop in wasd key drop in for shmups! Maybe I'd add some kind of weights on the inside corners or something. Maybe rubber on the underneath for grip. Lots of ideas!
I remember how I made my ikeabox from an ikea cheap toolbox after I saw your first buttonbox video, though I had no drill and had to cut holes with a scalpel :S
Wait!..... where are you gonna keep your packed lunches now??? Anyway, I actually like this. Could be a way to start without without letting things get too expensive.
it might be cheaper to just buy a hitbox .. 140 plus tax for the board and the wiring 90 plus tax for the buttons than shipping for both .. and we don't even have a case at this point ... it makes sense if you already have a board laying around but i think its better to just get a hitbox
Brook Universal Fighting Board is compatible with all major systems as of this comment. XB 360/1, PS3/4/5, Switch, PC. IIRC may even be compatible with Wii, Wii U. Only problem is the price of the PCB.
I might actually do something similar, with 2 jump buttons for shmups. This could be a great project for next month :). I'm thinking of using Zero-Pi or Pico Fighting Board since they are a lot cheeper and I only play on PC mostly so I won't need a UFB.
I don't get the cheap part, just to buy and import all the items from Amazon I pay the equivalent to buy 3 hitbox controllers from the original seller. Hitbox CrossUp (currently the most expensive) costs $299,00. That's half the price of the Brook board alone.
The hitbox™ has 4 buttons on the side, PS home, touchpad, Share and Option. But in SFV PC version, only Option button is useful. L3 and R3 is more important than touchpad button and Share in my opinion.
This is one idea that I have for myself personally (that I hope to one day do), but it would be cool to see you try to make a guitar hero controller (with a regular box shape like a normal rythm game controller, not a guitar) with the arcade buttons and the Brook pcb to play Clone Hero on pc
All of yall talking about buying a case. Make one. 3d print, wood, plexiglass, metal. whatever nothing too hard about drilling 30mm holes. Don't need to pay a company 60+ for a box made of ABS
i'm still really upset that gamerfinger has YET to ship orders from over a year ago at this point. Still love the buttons but i switched to qanba gravity buttons because i can't support what gamerfinger does
What is the box dimensions and What is the brand of buttons he is using with the screw in? And would this work with the Brook Zero - pi fighting board easy version?
I suck at doing manual stuff like this.. but this video REAAALLLY makes me want to try making my own personalized ABC. I want my directional buttons to be ASD (to have them super close like in a keyboard) but also the A (left direction) to be a bit larger so i can press it with both fingers (pinky and ring fingers) any recommendations on how to achieve that?
@@NihongoGamer yes, the shift key size would be perfect, i saw a piano (musical instrument) video in which the instructor mentioned its easier to move both of those fingers at the same time rather than independent so i think it may make execution even easier for fighting games and also when i test playing on my regular keyboard the fact that the keys are so close feels easier and more natural to press than my snackbox micro which has a separation between the buttons, those are the reasons why i want to personalize my ABC that way, anyways i will try to figure out how to do that, this video super hyped me up to try making my own, thank you a lot for the amazing content like always!!
to add to this if you are sourcing keyboard switches and keycaps individually, look for a "2u" keycap (1u is standard key width, so 2u is double width)
I had a plastic cover attached to my PCB so I just taped it to the inside of the box. You can buy “Brook PCB feet” for $1 which will do the job nicely too
so like, do you not have to mount the pcb anywhere? i've been thinking of building a hitbox with a cardboard box and idk how i'd add mounting holes for the pcb but if i can literally just let it dangle there and it won't break or malfunction then i guess im good.
Hope you can help me out, I am trying to build my first controller! What else do I need/Do I need anything else if I wanted to add the L3/R3 buttons to be mapped? I will be purchasing the UFB Fusion board for PS5 compatibility. You mentioned L3/R3 in the video but nothing else haha, and I can't seem to find any videos about it. Is there an extra harness for that? Thanks!
When I built version 1 of the diy box I explained it a bit more. There are many benefits to all button controllers. Being able to jump with right thumb and discrete inputs (no overshooting motion inputs) makes them more accurate and probably easier for new players too
@@NihongoGamer I suppose it mgith be easier to learn afresh, but I've been using arcade sticks since well, since arcades were a thing. You do you, no hatin'. Just for me, I would always want an arcade stick. Square gate, circle gate, octogate, anything.
As someone whose first arcade stick case was made of similar box, I've got few suggestions for people considering going this way:
1. Consider the strength of the cover. You dont want the top to flex when in use (for all button controller it's less of an issue, since you're only pushing inwards). So the easiest thing I've found is to actually use the backside of it for all face buttons. Because of the molding and thickness backside is usually more rigid than the top.
2. DO NOT DRILL THE BOX LIKE SHOWN IN THE VIDEO - you'll most likely snap the spaces between button holes. Instead, get a piece of wood and place it underneath the place you're about to drill, so it lays firmly on it (maybe even pushing slightly outwards). Use this method for all buttons.
3. Consider the ribs. The configurable walls, aka ribs, will give more stability to overall structure of your box, so if possible, keep as many as you can. Usually, they do not come up to the top cover, so adding some padding underneath them from the opposite side (between bottom of the box and the wall inlet) is also preferable.
4. Consider wiring and a way to secure your PCB. I've ended up using affer mentioned rib walls to secion out a space for it and added some padding, so it would not rattle inside.
5. If you've already have yours and have face cover stability issues, you can try using simple A4 printer paper, folded in 3-4 times (play around with it) and placed as a tightening strip under the face cover, so that both ends of the paper are ouside the box when it gets closed. I've added two such things along both sides of mine box and it helped. If done correctly, you're supposed to have to force the clips to close.
6. Buy at least two boxes - spare yourself a needless trip to the store ;)
Lots of great advice here!
I know this is an old comment, are there any recommendations for a pcb? i just want it to be compatible with pc and also want socd, but i was not willing to spend almost 100 dollars for a brook board because in that case it would be cheaper to get the hitbox already made
@@warupchina I too have the same problem when it comes to the price. I only need it to be compatible with PS4 and potentially PC
@@javianbrown8627 fighting board ps3/ps4 plus is 53$, for a universal pcb it's usually 100 euro but this one is good i hear
upside down tubberware containers would work well. the name brand ones are really sturdy, and come in lots of shapes. just a thought
I like the DIY idea so can decide on the button placement that works best for my hand and comfort. Would like to see a DIY video installing fight stick (detachable) instead of all buttons.
People have mentioned using a sacrificial board to prevent cracking, but something I haven't seen anyone point out yet:
Instead of cutting out the circles in the stencil with an x-acto, just punch a hole in the center of each circle and mark the spot that way.
The hole saw bits have a drill in the center anyway, so having the center point marked is more helpful.
I've built several boxes over the years. I've used wood, cardboard and have even tried modifying an existing box. I ended up getting a ready-made case from AliExpress. Unlike all of my previous attempts, despite being made out of parts bought from different vendors, this one looks like a store-bought controller. I did have to modify the box a little, though, since it didn't come with holes for Start, Select, Home, etc. Since the top panel is thick and shiny, I've drilled the holes on the sides of the box.
Also, I use a NEUTRIK USB passthrough, which allows me to detach the cable from my controller without opening the box. This is useful in case my cable gets damaged.
Do you perhaps have a link or a name? What words did you use for your search?
I just built my first all button box today! I wired it incorrectly three times, but I'm very happy with the results. Been playing on my keyboard for about a year now, and this is one of the best things I've ever done for myself. I can finally play fighting games on a console!
I want to give a shoutout to the Pico Fighting Board. It's much cheaper than anything Brook makes, just as fast (faster?), and in some ways even more feature rich (built in RGB controller!). If you don't need PS5 support, it's worth looking at.
I'm waiting for my button box running on a Pico Fighting Board to give it a try myself actually. Have heard nothing but good things about it so I'm a good bit excited!
@@GuntanksInSpace Unfortunately it's more difficult to obtain now, because Feral's store selling the pre-soldered version has closed. A real shame. I hope he returns or someone else picks it up.
I empathize with this thread. I have two picos and I just wanted one pfb for an all custom build. I think I might try soldering my pico to a 2040 breakout board and using the mapping software that was made for the pico fighting board.
@@heoiohor just solder the wires directly to the pico
Update to OP: GP2040-CE now has PS5 support via USB passthrough!
After drilling the holes, you could use sand paper or a metal file on holes get a cleaner, round look and get rid of those straggly piece of plastic at the same time. Obviously not necessary unless buttons aren't fitting correctly, but still a nice touch if you want a cleaner and more finished look.
I was going to say just that
I saw your vid of your first cheap box build. It helped me to make a full 4-player arcade to play Smash Bros Ultimate on the Switch with analog control & tilt sticks. Just got past the prototype. Going to be expanding the panel soon. Thank you so much for all you do!
Oh man, the vacuum. Such a mess. lol.
All I'm seeing is the Oreo mcflurry hoodie has been a mainstay of the channel and streams and I love it
If you left the separators in the box when making the holes it would have better supported the top to help prevent cracking. Good idea though! I have a Brooks board sitting around doing nothing I could repurpose like this
I already ordered the parts for my own Hitbox controller, it should come in early march. I spent a bit over 150$ trying to achieve a price/quality balance (I think I did, I mean at least it's not 250$), and can;rt wait to put everything together and play with my first ever fightstick!
Babe wake up the funny fightstick man uploaded.
Instead of driling from the top of the box, you should have flip it over, put it on some flat work surface (some plank), then drill from the bottom. That way your plastic wont bend and wont crack. Also those separators inside the box should be used to stifen the interior of the box so it would be nice and stable during play. Also secure the usb cable to the box. You can use sticky plastic with holes for zip ties, and zip tie cable to it. Or you can just drill some small holes in side wall for zip tie and run zip tie through it for the cable. That way it wont came loose when sticky plastic lose adhesive. Also all those loose not conected wires with not insuleted endings should be insulated to preventing short cuting something.
Nice v2 button box! I think stuffing the controller with cloth or fabric will make it more silent.
If you don't live in Central Europe or North America or Japan (anywhere with terrible customs duty/tax laws or a rapidly declining economy like here in Turkey) for our intents and purposes this is a SLEEPER controller. It's built on a cheap and diy chassis but the hardware isn't necessarily "cheap". The PCB alone costs around 100$ and you probably can't get traditional buttons shipped to you. It's cheap for a traditional fight stick but it looks cheaper than it is cheap as a controller in general. It's also important to note the market has not explored any really cheap "budget" fight sticks, as the cheap alternatives to fight sticks are keyboards and gamepads lying around in your house. If you desire a hitbox style controller, the cheapest small form factor mechanical keyboard with switches of your choosing will serve you ideally. If you really want to go out of your way to build a proprietary hitbox controller, here's what i can tell you.
The cheapest buttons that have potential are probably outemu switches. And not retail ones at that, because buying 10-20 standalone switches is about the same price as buying a used full sized keyboard full of them. Keyboard switches are already preferred in controllers like the snackbox micro and gamerfinger already sells them in the format of a fight stick button for people who want to switch out sanwa buttons or the like. They are silent, durable, consistent and they feel satisfying to use. They are also easy to mod (lubricate etc) so you can go far without spending a lot of money if you're willing to work on the over the span of a few days.
As for a PCB, your best bet would be an Arduino Pro Micro, which is a microcontroller designed to be used on HID (human interface device) (including input devices of any kind). You do need to look for code to run on it, especially if you want to give out anything other than keyboard inputs, which leads into the next topic.
As long as your hardware is not officially licensed by the manufacturer of the console because licensed hardware from what i gather contains special chips that fulfill a handshake with the console, you cannot get it to work on consoles. As for pc, the pro micro natively uses keyboard inputs, but i'm positive you can run xinput on it so that it doesn't clash with inputs given on an actual keyboard.
Keycaps you may wanna look into 3d printing if you want the buttons to sit flush like traditional fight sticks. Same goes for the chassis but you can also make use of boxes like these if you so desire. Usually the dimensions are totally dependant on the casing because the pro micro can fit anywhere and the switches albeit not as slim as the ones in the snackbox micro, are slimmer than arcade buttons.
Will most likely require soldering but that's a rather easy skill for most people to pick up.
Such is what i perceive to be the real budget solution for places like turkey who fall under 300$ minimum wage. Feel free to contribute or correct in replies if you find necessary.
Can I suggest: 2 pieces of wood and 4 bolts? If you could just leave the sides open and use the bolts as columns to support the top panel. Gotta be more ridged then a plastic pill box. Won’t crack either.
Version 2 came out so nice and clean. Great job Nihongo! You're really making me want to put one together myself. I'm sure I would go out and grab the parts and just do it, but I have to buy online where I'm at. Maybe having to wait for shipping will make this desire fade, hahaha!
Surprisingly the hard part is finding the right container for me when I did mine
I never really thought about using a screw/parts organizer for a controller. Would be cool to get a thinner one with thinner buttons. A non-transparent one would be stronger too and not show the mess inside. I am interested in trying this as I don't have a hitbox yet. If you just play on PC you can just get a $11 usb board. They work perfectly fine.
Sticking a block of wood before drilling the switch holes should prevent cracks, I think :)
To fix the cracking the way this is done by pro builders is to put a sacrificial board under what your drilling into.
Nihongo Systems Ltd with some more cutting edge engineering solutions! Love the videos!
I'm in the process of building a leverless similar to this, but waiting on the last few 24mm GamerFinger buttons to come in stock...it is taking forever!
Japanese man who enjoys caffeine-infused beverages and video games is back! Let's goooo
If you get a replacement plate or plexi for a different fight stick you could use that to reinforce everything and make it feel more sturdy. Just have to make sure that it will fit onto whatever box you are using.
Can i just say how frikin crazy this is! I bought a muji folio made of pp plastic and am in the process of getting a drill to try this madness out and save money
To have less noise put foam mattress inside the box!
this is super cool man, congrats on your new DIY controller
Hey I like ti say thanks for your previous hitbox video it actually helped me build my hitbox
Sweet build Nihongo Gamer and love the Kronii bgm!
So it's no delay like on keyboard, nice
Man, I really wanna make one of these, but the main problem is the price of the Brook Fighting PCB, that thing is EXPENSIVE.
im making a hitbox style controller atm. I actually have a snackbox micro (i love it its so good) but for more or less fun i thought id make one as well. So I got 2mm steel plate i shaped it mostly allready. i just need to drill the holes anymore. i dont have a 24mm drill atm so thats gona take a moment. and the rest of the box im gona make out of wood. those pieces are also done. just need to paint and put it together.... cant wait untill its ready.
Sounds great!
Is it done??
Can you tell me how to get all those wire and stuffs.
Im really excited to build one for myself as well. I just started playing tekken for the first time and I really would like to use that arcade movement stick and action buttons .
@@Nur_Lmz unfortunately no. I might have gone a bit overboard with the plan so it really hasnt progressed for a while....
I wanna make this but put in the ODIN drop in wasd key drop in for shmups! Maybe I'd add some kind of weights on the inside corners or something. Maybe rubber on the underneath for grip. Lots of ideas!
I am surprised that a company hasn't decided to make a cheap hitbox case. I am not good with diy/drilling so would love to buy a case for like £20-30.
Thanks dude
it would be exciting if you build this with proper case from eternal rival, junkfood, etc.
looks suprisingly easy... Might try it out sometimes
I remember how I made my ikeabox from an ikea cheap toolbox after I saw your first buttonbox video, though I had no drill and had to cut holes with a scalpel :S
Nice man! Now if only I could find the right sized box for me.
Incredibly cheap fightpad only requires a 3/4$ box and a drill with drill bits (negates to mention 95$ fighting board and buttons as part of price)
next step is to win a title with this....LOL
I don’t have a drill… so it’s going +$60 with whatever components I choose
The hitbox is almost perfect for Asteroids (including Deluxe) and Track & Field, two of the arcade games that uses all buttons...
dude, you look like the main character from hi-score girl
Im a little late to ask but what buttons are those? Ive been trying to find them and i just cant lol
Wait!..... where are you gonna keep your packed lunches now???
Anyway, I actually like this. Could be a way to start without without letting things get too expensive.
This is such a useful video! Thank you!
Might have to try
This is awesome. I really want a hybrid of the thumb button and WSAD layout.
Would you know how to do that?
it might be cheaper to just buy a hitbox .. 140 plus tax for the board and the wiring 90 plus tax for the buttons than shipping for both .. and we don't even have a case at this point ... it makes sense if you already have a board laying around but i think its better to just get a hitbox
LEGENDARY NIHONGO GAMER SENSEI🙏🏾
yay vr two
I want to make my own but on the PS5 would this only be compatible with PC? Ohhhhh nice
Brook Universal Fighting Board is compatible with all major systems as of this comment.
XB 360/1, PS3/4/5, Switch, PC.
IIRC may even be compatible with Wii, Wii U.
Only problem is the price of the PCB.
Great video! As always
Build your own pad using your favorite outline lol
I've been trying to get a set for over a year
Is there any chip board that allows you to add more buttons?
I might actually do something similar, with 2 jump buttons for shmups. This could be a great project for next month :). I'm thinking of using Zero-Pi or Pico Fighting Board since they are a lot cheeper and I only play on PC mostly so I won't need a UFB.
I don't get the cheap part, just to buy and import all the items from Amazon I pay the equivalent to buy 3 hitbox controllers from the original seller.
Hitbox CrossUp (currently the most expensive) costs $299,00. That's half the price of the Brook board alone.
how to buy those buttons?
where to buy those buttons?
The hitbox™ has 4 buttons on the side, PS home, touchpad, Share and Option. But in SFV PC version, only Option button is useful. L3 and R3 is more important than touchpad button and Share in my opinion.
When's the next while I'm driving episode?
Couldn't have come out at a better time as I was just deciding what all button controller to buy lol
you should have opened the lid, layed it flat against a board or something, then drill from the under side so the flex won't crack the plastic
Awesome video thank you! also viola is pronounced vwah-lah lol. thank you for the great content!
could you put a joystick in there. so you have a choice to use eithe button or stick? thanks
Look up hitstick.
You definitely can do that, though I'm wondering how the wiring on most PCBs allows for 2 movement options.
This is one idea that I have for myself personally (that I hope to one day do), but it would be cool to see you try to make a guitar hero controller (with a regular box shape like a normal rythm game controller, not a guitar) with the arcade buttons and the Brook pcb to play Clone Hero on pc
Solo pido una opinión.... Porque el hitbox tiene ese diseño? Osea no vi ninguno que sea un poco mas separado 😢osea las manos
ah that crack but still looks perfect
Veohla? You mean Voila?
Version 3, replace the plastic box with a wooden box.
you are a legend!
Men, you so cool! I hope you will see this comment. You probably get asked a lot, but still, where do you find gamerfingers?))
All of yall talking about buying a case. Make one. 3d print, wood, plexiglass, metal. whatever nothing too hard about drilling 30mm holes. Don't need to pay a company 60+ for a box made of ABS
i'm still really upset that gamerfinger has YET to ship orders from over a year ago at this point. Still love the buttons but i switched to qanba gravity buttons because i can't support what gamerfinger does
Make a controller out of a piano. That would be cool.
Been planning on that and a few other builds. Will see which I get to first :)
By chance are you planning to make and sale hitbox controllers?
Currently no plans but hey, maybe someday!
and what about the Odin V2?
I got a hitbox. Im never going back to stick except for fun.
use a pi pico next
What is the box dimensions and What is the brand of buttons he is using with the screw in? And would this work with the Brook Zero - pi fighting board easy version?
yeah the board itself is more expensive than lets say the mayflash :D
This year maybe 3d printer?
I suck at doing manual stuff like this.. but this video REAAALLLY makes me want to try making my own personalized ABC. I want my directional buttons to be ASD (to have them super close like in a keyboard) but also the A (left direction) to be a bit larger so i can press it with both fingers (pinky and ring fingers) any recommendations on how to achieve that?
you could try slightly larger keyboard key like Shift?
@@NihongoGamer yes, the shift key size would be perfect, i saw a piano (musical instrument) video in which the instructor mentioned its easier to move both of those fingers at the same time rather than independent so i think it may make execution even easier for fighting games and also when i test playing on my regular keyboard the fact that the keys are so close feels easier and more natural to press than my snackbox micro which has a separation between the buttons, those are the reasons why i want to personalize my ABC that way, anyways i will try to figure out how to do that, this video super hyped me up to try making my own, thank you a lot for the amazing content like always!!
to add to this if you are sourcing keyboard switches and keycaps individually, look for a "2u" keycap (1u is standard key width, so 2u is double width)
Plz, How do you stick the brook universal fighting board to the case ??
I had a plastic cover attached to my PCB so I just taped it to the inside of the box. You can buy “Brook PCB feet” for $1 which will do the job nicely too
so like, do you not have to mount the pcb anywhere? i've been thinking of building a hitbox with a cardboard box and idk how i'd add mounting holes for the pcb but if i can literally just let it dangle there and it won't break or malfunction then i guess im good.
looks like its difficult to get the pre-installed header version in Australia :(
Which are these buttons?
Hope you can help me out, I am trying to build my first controller!
What else do I need/Do I need anything else if I wanted to add the L3/R3 buttons to be mapped? I will be purchasing the UFB Fusion board for PS5 compatibility. You mentioned L3/R3 in the video but nothing else haha, and I can't seem to find any videos about it. Is there an extra harness for that? Thanks!
Which buttons are those?
You you make a joystick version of this?
It would be harder to do because the lateral movement of a lever means you need a stronger/heavier case
What is the difference between the Brook Universal Fighting Board and the Brook Zero-Pi?
Cool but after buying components im sure there is not much price difference. The PCB alone is like $100 etc.
Would this work on a steam deck?
why do you go with individual buttons over a JLF or some other such joystick?
When I built version 1 of the diy box I explained it a bit more. There are many benefits to all button controllers. Being able to jump with right thumb and discrete inputs (no overshooting motion inputs) makes them more accurate and probably easier for new players too
@@NihongoGamer I suppose it mgith be easier to learn afresh, but I've been using arcade sticks since well, since arcades were a thing. You do you, no hatin'. Just for me, I would always want an arcade stick. Square gate, circle gate, octogate, anything.
Hey I planning to build a hitbox in a few days and I want to drill the holes. Where can I get a full sized layout
A good old fashioned poverty stick.
Do i need additional cable for R3 and L3 or 20-Pin cable already heaving them?
Bluetooth version?