I looked at this some years ago and stalled my build because those damned motors are so noisy! No, I don't want any moving parts. But I want nacelle ends that look convincing, so I started looking around for replacement ideas. One idea, and the leading contender, is to mount a projector in each nacelle. The projector would show a constant, looping animation of the lights and fan blades back-lighting the nacelle domes. This has the advantage of letting me experiment with other lighting effects like swirling plasma or pinpoint flashes. It has the disadvantage of being very expensive, and so far projector technology stopped shrinking a few years ago just before reaching the size I'd need. The optics are a little too big for the nacelles. But this is the most versatile solution. Next, I was thinking of making custom LCD strips lining the inside of a frosted dome. I'd need at least sixteen of these things to pull off believable motion, and I couldn't sequence them slowly or the effect breaks down ... unless I have a *lot* of blades. I've only recently seen instructions for home made LCD parts, and it's a multistep process. Finally, packing the dome with fiber optics and carefully aligning the fibers with lights further back in the nacelles so the effect of lighting with animated components could be believably simulated. This is the second-most versatile approach, but my god, keeping track of all those fibers!
I just got my light kit and I think something may be wrong. I wanted to test the Bussard lights but they’re lifeless. The motors work fine. One of the light PCBs somethings flashed on for the length of a camera flash but that’s all. The other one I believe has two solder joins bridged so I’m guessing that’s causing a dead short on one of them.
That's true. My good friend Boyd Crompton, A.K.A., Trekworks, pioneered that process. This video was shoot several years ago and ported from my old channel to this new one. If I was doing this again I would use the technique you describe. Thanks for watching.
I heard if you use thin foam rubber in the nacells putting in around wiring as much as possible, it absorbs the vibration and cuts down the noise by 90%
i actually found a better blade option on shapeways im going to paint black as it's only the fan blades and shaft, im also devising an idea using a ruber gasket between the motor mounts and nacelle to see if that dampens the electric motor noise
I agree on the squeaking noises. I am looking at installing a brushless RC type motors that can be better controlled. Also using metal bearings instead of plastic on plastic. I know with my experience in RC panes, I can do much better as far as the lighting set up. Now days, you can obtain actual mini christmas lights with tiny leds at any store.As far as broken mireor, a compact mirror or check dollar store for avilable materials. I noticed you were limiting yourself on materials by your inexperience in the world of modelling. I use whatever I can find wherever I can find it, not limiting myself to whatever is available on line as manufactured by someone else, then paying top dollar for the ill conceived stuff put out there. Sanding the bottom of the clear nacelles so there ia no contact helps clear up those noises. I am sure you figured all that out as you worked on it. I bet you learned alot doing the model and if you made another one, you would do it differently. You only gain experience by doing. I learned everything I know from years of experience building models of every kind. Yup, we learn, we live we mess up and start over. Good tips on the micro metal glue on the metal parts. I need to order some. Yeah, CA doesnt work unless you scuff the metal, then dont screw up and scuff the wrong side, lol. I know you finished this a long time ago. So have you built another one since then? lol.
I'm the biggest Trek nerd in history and I wouldn't put up with that noise for anything. Unless it was just for shooting your own movie where you could dub out the sound, I cant imagine who would ever put up with that?? There has to be quiet little motors that would work.
Sorry for the delay in getting back with you. I do not accept commission builds these days. Just to busy at HDAmodelworx to do it, but my friend Boyd Compton from the Trekworks RUclips channel does them. He is, in my opinion, just about the best out there for creating a museum quality build. His paint work and attention to detail is amazing. Thanks for watching.
Only thing I can see my friend is we could barely hear you over the noise of the bizarre working they are extremely too loud to put in that model unless the way is found to silence them
I looked at this some years ago and stalled my build because those damned motors are so noisy! No, I don't want any moving parts. But I want nacelle ends that look convincing, so I started looking around for replacement ideas.
One idea, and the leading contender, is to mount a projector in each nacelle. The projector would show a constant, looping animation of the lights and fan blades back-lighting the nacelle domes. This has the advantage of letting me experiment with other lighting effects like swirling plasma or pinpoint flashes. It has the disadvantage of being very expensive, and so far projector technology stopped shrinking a few years ago just before reaching the size I'd need. The optics are a little too big for the nacelles. But this is the most versatile solution.
Next, I was thinking of making custom LCD strips lining the inside of a frosted dome. I'd need at least sixteen of these things to pull off believable motion, and I couldn't sequence them slowly or the effect breaks down ... unless I have a *lot* of blades. I've only recently seen instructions for home made LCD parts, and it's a multistep process.
Finally, packing the dome with fiber optics and carefully aligning the fibers with lights further back in the nacelles so the effect of lighting with animated components could be believably simulated. This is the second-most versatile approach, but my god, keeping track of all those fibers!
Jerry!!!!!!
Looking forward to watching all of this build!
-Jim
I just got my light kit and I think something may be wrong. I wanted to test the Bussard lights but they’re lifeless. The motors work fine. One of the light PCBs somethings flashed on for the length of a camera flash but that’s all. The other one I believe has two solder joins bridged so I’m guessing that’s causing a dead short on one of them.
That's true. My good friend Boyd Crompton, A.K.A., Trekworks, pioneered that process. This video was shoot several years ago and ported from my old channel to this new one. If I was doing this again I would use the technique you describe. Thanks for watching.
Ooooh my God Jim the buzzards cant take much more!
I am officially in love with you!! (Sorry, "Social Distancing")...Boyd, AKA "TrekWorks" is awesome....(EDIT)...but you're awesome TOO!!
I heard if you use thin foam rubber in the nacells putting in around wiring as much as possible, it absorbs the vibration and cuts down the noise by 90%
i actually found a better blade option on shapeways im going to paint black as it's only the fan blades and shaft, im also devising an idea using a ruber gasket between the motor mounts and nacelle to see if that dampens the electric motor noise
Love the info Jerry in your vids BTW is there a finish from episde 12 looking forward too it as well as others dont leave me hangin
I agree on the squeaking noises. I am looking at installing a brushless RC type motors that can be better controlled. Also using metal bearings instead of plastic on plastic. I know with my experience in RC panes, I can do much better as far as the lighting set up. Now days, you can obtain actual mini christmas lights with tiny leds at any store.As far as broken mireor, a compact mirror or check dollar store for avilable materials. I noticed you were limiting yourself on materials by your inexperience in the world of modelling. I use whatever I can find wherever I can find it, not limiting myself to whatever is available on line as manufactured by someone else, then paying top dollar for the ill conceived stuff put out there. Sanding the bottom of the clear nacelles so there ia no contact helps clear up those noises. I am sure you figured all that out as you worked on it. I bet you learned alot doing the model and if you made another one, you would do it differently. You only gain experience by doing. I learned everything I know from years of experience building models of every kind. Yup, we learn, we live we mess up and start over. Good tips on the micro metal glue on the metal parts. I need to order some. Yeah, CA doesnt work unless you scuff the metal, then dont screw up and scuff the wrong side, lol. I know you finished this a long time ago. So have you built another one since then? lol.
Where can I find the deluxe accessory kit ?
Wouldn't it be less fuss just to mask and pin stripe with paint?
The Bussards sounded like cake mixers. Is that really how loud (and horribly annoying) they are? Please tell me it’s just a sensitive mic.
I would hope motor technology has advanced since this video was posted.
That noise ...
The motor noise and squeak of the rotating parts would drive me insane, I'm afraid.
+nitramyar They're certainly not for everybody.
Just "file" down arond the edges of the inner dome slightly to prevent rubbing on the inside of the nacelle. :-)
Stuff foam into the rest of the warp engine nacelles to further dampen the sound.
I'm the biggest Trek nerd in history and I wouldn't put up with that noise for anything. Unless it was just for shooting your own movie where you could dub out the sound, I cant imagine who would ever put up with that?? There has to be quiet little motors that would work.
Curious.... What do you charge for doing one - I have some parts as the factory kits and upgraded electronics that Polar Lights provided.
Sorry for the delay in getting back with you.
I do not accept commission builds these days. Just to busy at HDAmodelworx to do it, but my friend Boyd Compton from the Trekworks RUclips channel does them. He is, in my opinion, just about the best out there for creating a museum quality build. His paint work and attention to detail is amazing.
Thanks for watching.
I have JC Model works on it, thanks for the reply
Do you make bases like this one: facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1667080626919653&set=pcb.1667080263586356&type=3&theater
would a cigarette lighter suffice to aneal the parts???
seems painting the led end pods silver makes more sense.. would leave off the motors if they sound like shit.. nice build though..
do you do commission build like this ? if so please contact me.
Could that motor be a little louder? I said COULD IT BE LOUDER! The dog will hide under the bed and the neighbors will probably call the cops.
There are LED spinners you can get though it's not accurate. At least you'll remain sane.
Darrell, this is a old video. I can say now once the build is completed with a few tweaks then she runs almost silently.
Thanks for watching.
Only thing I can see my friend is we could barely hear you over the noise of the bizarre working they are extremely too loud to put in that model unless the way is found to silence them
The plasma mix to the reactor is in correct mixture that's why they're squeaking and also check the antimatter stream
Seriously??? Who could possibly stand that nacelle spinning racket for more than 30 seconds?
the motor sound ruins the effect