Bless you and thy home and may it be full restore all taken. Restoring to you all that has be taken by . By Faith we live by love we give all. And by Thy Father's sound mind we sing praises only a beloved sons and Daughters fill with the Spirit that was what you always needed to overcome all that is in this world and seeks to deceive you an keep you from receiving the one whom was the in love and not lack for the Father doesn't do such. For you have not because not asking not lack or less but Sons and Daughter and nothing less. For nothing is or was with held only the wisdom to wield it as you grow that comes in the eye and hearing of the good Father does it. To grow you right and guide your way not as tyrant as others had done of other things. He will not bless that way and is watching his son and strengthens as we grow into the power he gave. Never was the grave the way given by the for a eternal Father wants to be in the life of his children and by relationship we are known and seen. Not forgotten an grieve. His is Good and wants his children to learn to be honorable just the same as they came from. Not trodden under foot of any enemies that seek to hurt what they believe less than they. Due to that which taught such and stole what was his always. Giving you working by sweat of brow and blood and child birth was to teach you the cost of and his loss and pain. Helping bring you close and to mind when your children are stray! Thoe you thought they were lost. Never were they for the testing of the Spirits was to grow and teach how he equipped and withheld nothing from just to let you know that always were you of light and power not lack and desire and want or thirst just to teach you to be alert. And not pervert and steal and be deserted. But to bring full circle and back to that which you are and restore the smile upon his Father's face and give to the all his children whom need him for he loves you not destroys you. Stands against all enemies and bold knowing truth and thy Spirit within moving an healing an restoring what was to be always. Love you children be good one to the other honoring what is and was for you to know good truth and the love always for you and fights for you to have nothing but all that he gives in an through and for him as well you whom loves you and came to help andrestore you unto. Always best never less or lack . Thank you all for lifting and bringing strength in love and song and word. For it is what feed you as well. Love you
Coming from a machining background, I appreciate your mind set on tolerances, and really knowing what the hell your talking about. I’m considering buying a iron 883 and will probably need mill work done to the heads. You have my business when I do buy the bike.
Blew my engine in my XL 1200 C. I have been wanting to rebuild it for a couple of years now. SO thankful I stumbled across this video. I will be ordering replacement parts from Hammer Performance and upgrade the power to my engine. Really looking forward to doing that now.
me too want to do the same, if i buy a 1200custom in future, seriously want the full blown 120_+ engine kit, but worried how much will it cost when it reaches me , after all that custom clearance.
Great information, you evidently know and understand what your doing, unlike some,.you live and learn every day. thanks for a really good and informative video,
I love your products ,nothing but great gains from that! Great knowledge Aron.Thank you for all your help! Anyone who read this make shure you tell this to all the crew! Thank you again! These guys did a great job for me even overseas respect!
I live in CDA and recently picked up a 2013 Iron 883. I’ve been adding a lot of upgrades to it over the last month. This 1275 kit will be my winter project. I’ll be up there to see you soon!
Thanks u for this video, Recently picked up an iron 883 that needs more torque/hp and u explained what i need to get to do that.. Just need a few more bucks now :D
I mean I am late to the feast with this comment but you are doing the exact right thing with these in-depth analysis videos. You are increasing the confidence of your customers to do a conversion and also demystifying the technology and the labour involved. Thank you.
This video literally just answered everything I needed to know about this situation and help me make my decision on how to spec my build from you guys. I was sent a quote a few months back on the 120+HP kit, and I was going to get SE cnc ported heads from HD. No way in hell am I doing that now. I will be sending my heads to you guys to work your magic! What is the turn around time on the Sledge head work I was quoted on, or is the quoted price for a set of heads already set up? I am looking forward to working with you guys to build my dream XL!
Turn around on SLEDGE 883 heads (110+ package) is about 3 weeks currently and BFH (120+) is about 4. The fastest turn around time of the year is right now.
@Random dude because a titled ownership that says 883 is cheeper on insurance even if you convert it to a 1275 , 1200 cc ownership will cost more to insure ...also there is a gear differance between 883 tranny compared to a 1200 transmition , i was told the 883 has better gear ratios .i have an 883 and have rode a 1200 and i do believe the transmition ratios are different . But there are a couple reasons for you to go 883 if your looking to go big with a sporty, im doing a conversion as soon as i save enough to do it all ...
I went with hammer 1275 kit, using XB heads and going with the larger valves 190, and 160. Of course ported. I run and S&S Super-G carburetor with a 1-inch spacer in a thunder jet with a 110 jet, running and 93 main jet in a 36 intermediate, using a supertrapp modified two into one exhaust, I dumped the stock baffles in made my own. Let's just say my bike is very very happy. Beware S&S carburetor users, you have to cut I believe two maybe three fins off the cylinders I can't recall right now so the carb will bolt up to the heads. I know one thing my bike halls ass
Been looking for an upgrade ever since i bought my bike(Needed some new gaskets anyway), its all in boxes ready to start building, cash ready to change hands but the issue is that i can't find any Hammer p parts in my country :( Importing is pretty silly right now. Atm all the plans i had have been halted(Intended to upgrade engine / paint everything / build stiff frame to continue the bobber style / continue tidy up electronics / new bars and rims) I'm tempted to just paint and slap it all together again instead. The basic 1250 or 1275 kits is what has been on my list. I guess the dream lives on for a little bit longer :D
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE Yeah :D Import parts here from the states is expensive doe :/ And with corona, shipping in general have been pretty bad. Do you know of any delays to the Nordic countries? Big stuff from China(And other countries ofc) pretty much have halted(In my case, e-bikes / astro gear to name a few).
Can you guys please make some videos on the 90ci kit info on n it and also videos of installation and what you'll need things like this in purchasing one and would really appreciate the extra on information and any guide to help complete the process more smoothly.
Outstanding video ! #1 should I start out with a 1200vs.883 fuel injected sportster,because of the heads ? #2 it's $1695.00 for the F.i -1275 b.b. kit If I utilize the 1200 heads for porting , can I save $$$ by just buying your H.Comp. 20 over pistons & you boring my cylinders ? #3 any downsides to using my jugs other than losing 75c.c.s and will I lose some torque/H.P. ? Thanks in advance Hammer 😎
Did you guys ever do a video or discuss the heat difference between a stock 883 & a 1250/1275? Do they run hotter….enough to be concerned about? Looking at converting my XLH883 and am concerned about loosing reliability
There are a handful of reliability issues on the Evolution Sportster platform that pop-up when the power level is raised. None are related to heat, however. Good fixes exist for all of them. Many of the fixes came from HD themselves, and were rolled into the stock bikes over the years. So which reliability upgrades you need is a function of the year of your bike, and generally speaking, the newer it is, the fewer of those upgrades it needs. For a 2007+ bike, it's a pretty short list. For a 1991 bike, it's a pretty long list. Contact us for more details: www.hammerperf.com/contactus.shtml#salesform
You guys really provide great information on it. I have an '05 sportster 883 carbureted. I am considering purchasing the 1275 kit. I see the bolt on kit and then I see the complete conversion kit for a higher price. What is the difference between the kits?
Hi Edwin It is just that, the big bore kit is just the big bore kit, and the complete conversion kit is a turn key package with the ignition module, jets for the carb, etc.
Valve stem protrusion most definitely affects valve train geometry, and thus how much lift you get out of a set of cams. In a nutshell, to get max lift you need a stem protrusion that centers the rocker tip travel, so that at half lift, you have a right angle between the valve stem and a line drawn between the stem tip and the center of the rocker shaft. To the extent you vary from that, you'll get less lift than what's dictated by the lobe lift times the rocker ratio. Although it's a difficult thing to measure directly, there's a simple rule of thumb that gets you close: increase stem protrusion by half the amount you're increasing lift. So for example, if the factory stem protrusion spec is 1.900, and it comes from the factory with .500 lift cams, and you go installing .600 lift cams, you want a 1.950 stem protrusion. That keeps the rocker tip arc centered, thus giving you maximum lift. Some guys intentionally set stem protrusion a tad long, and then iterate, stacking rocker gaskets and measuring how much lift they're getting, until they find the gasket stack that gets them the maximum. This is generally only done on race motors, few street guys go to this extreme.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE You were not talking about valve stem Protruision .. You said Longer Valve Stems make it more likely for the valve to hit the Piston during valve overlap. This is not True. If you were to change where the valve seats are it could get the valves closer to the pistions. I built a 488 Cube BB Chevy Tall deck Truck engine for my C-65 Chevy I used a 4.25 stroke crank Longer Crower rods and stock flat top 454 chevy forged car pistons.. The second crane cam I used had I think .515 lift on the exhaust valves.. I had coil bind .. So i used shorter valve springs for a Clevland Ford.. Turns out the truck engines have shorter valve stems than car engines use.. The 427 chevy Truck engine only had .390 lift on the stock cam
@@mikeskidmore6754 The longer stems found in 883 heads absolutely do reduce p-v clearance and therefore make them more likely to hit the piston during overlap. But it's not because the longer stems create more lift. It's because the valves start out closer to the pistons than they do with 1200 heads. Sorry if I wasn't clear on that point in the video. I thought it was obvious, my bad.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE Sounds like the valves are closer to the Pistons and they are at an angle that pushes them closer to the pistons with less valve lift at overlap, I saw your dyno chart for redone 883 heads vs 1203 Sportster heads.. How do the 2008 Buell 1203 Thunderstorm heads compare? Guess a 1203 is around 70 Cubic Inches.. I was reading about your 90 Cubic inch big bore kit with Cast Iron Cylinders.. I guess that would be 1474 CC's I can't justify spending a lot of money to go to 1275 CC's but 1,474 CC's would make a nice gain in Torque... I took my Stock Buell to the Drag strip I ran faster quarter mile times shifting @ 6,000 RPM's than at 7,,000 RPMS.. I ran 12.7 @ 110 MPH .. I need to learn to ride the rear brake off from the line .. can't keep the front end on the gound ..
120+ HP Sportster? You guys are crazy. I just bought a used 883 that somebody did the 1200 kit and some Screaming Eagle whatever, and it's fast, fast enough for me. I know it's nowhere near 120 HP though. I do start sliding off the seat and the front wheel is beginning to come off the ground, so that's fast enough for me. It's a Sportster for sure. Enough for me.
Great video! Very informative in layman's terms. I appreciate that. I've been looking at your products for awhile but when my bike was down riding weather was coming so I put it back stock. I'm still hoping to get it built eventually. My question is do you get better performance from your sledge head or would a guy be better off to get 1200 heads?
The packages reflect the most cost effective way to reach their power levels. You can read about them here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#packages . Download the sample quotes to see everything included and what it costs. SLEDGE porting comes in at the 110+ level and BFH porting comes in at the 120+ level. Equivalency of stock 1200 heads varies depending on the year of the 1200 heads, but no stock 1200 heads come anywhere near the SLEDGE level. That's a serious level that makes for a really great head. SLEDGE and BFH are such major surgery to the heads that you can do it to either 883 heads or 1200 heads and they come out entirely equivalent.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE thank you for the quick reply. I have been watching your videos and studying your sight. I would love to have a 120hp sportster but I don't know if I can justify it. 😁
Have you seen any Iron 883's that consistently damage/bend the spark plug ground strap, and damage/crack the ceramic insulator that surrounds the electrode?
I'm power hungry and want to do the 120+ kit kind of out of spite but how much is to much with stock tires. Where does the power start becoming a "pain" to deal with as a daily, I'm cool with 1st, and 2nd getting lose and maybe a chirp in 3rd but nothing past that. 90hp maybe 100hp a good stopping point? (Currently running commander 2 for tire)
Visit xlforum. Besides being the best online Sporty resource it has MANY happy Hammer owners and plenty of dyno charts. I'm not affiliated, but spend a lot of time there.
HAMMER PERFORMANCE I would love to see this. There are no other videos like that on RUclips and it would help considerably in making the step towards this upgrade if people could see the gains.
If you have a accident they are likely to check, especially with hd Sportsters as it allows them to get off Scott free and not pay out. It will drive the price up but not much as it's an engine modification. Honesty is always the best option
Hi Aaron, i did the basic conversion 883/1200 last year, changed stem valves, cleaned, all new gasket and seals piston rings etc.... kit came from USA with dished pistons, not shiny chromed once but matt aluminium ones, (tell me if ok), but did not do anything with ignition as you suggest in the basic conversion video,, i am trying to understand why and what to buy in regards to it as expensive stuff, so....what happen if you leave the 883 ignition control module into a 1200 conversion and do i have to adjust or change ignition sensor?? i did re jet 45/190 and rebuilt carb...but realised ( after tuning carb myself) that spark plugs are always fouled and the vibrations are more intense as bits in aluminium all over the bike especially handlebar switches are braking including exhaust support bracket at the bottom ( last muffler), at 70 mph all shakes too bad, on my 96 sporty, bare in mind that i checked tightness of bolts and nuts all round, please tell me why, what to buy and send me links please, i should have bought the conversion kit from you in the first place but sorry did not know you were in business. p s.. my top speed is 110 mph. thanks.
The ignition we recommend for your application is a Dyna 2000, in your case the 8-pin external module. It's available in your choice of dual fire only (recommended, as it costs less and you'll never know the difference) or single/dual fire (single fire mode requires a new coil as well). You can find it here: www.hammerperf.com/xlignition.shtml#modules . We have a video that shows how to static time it here: www.hammerperf.com/ttvideos.shtml#statictiming . The video is for the 2000i but it's done the same way. No idea on the vibration, sorry, most of our customers report less vibration after installing our kits. Good luck.
U say u do all of this but doesnt say how to get ahold of yall... which what u said in this video is what I need done to my 2013 iron883 to 110+ horsepower package.... so how much? Who to call?
Is there any combinations you recommend for flattening the torque curve on these sportsters? Maybe not making them a hot rod, but just making the whole RPM range more usable than say idle- 4500.
Don't underestimate the effect of the exhaust on the shape of the torque curve. It's massive, particularly when the cams have overlap. Give a read to our library of XL exhaust system dyno test results, you'll see what I'm talking about. You can effect just humongous changes in the shape of the torque curve by swapping exhausts and nothing else: www.hammerperf.com/ttxlexhaust.shtml
1200 heads require the same level of head work to reach these high power levels as 883 heads do. It's such major surgery to the heads that it doesn't matter at all whether you start with 883 heads or 1200 heads, they come out identical either way. So if you're starting with an 883, there's no point in buying 1200 heads, you're just wasting money. Now sure, at the lower and mid range power levels, we approach it differently depending on whether the customer has an 883 or 1200. The idea is always to achieve the target power level in the most cost-effective way possible.
So what kind of valve clearance issues or lack there of appear when you use a stock 1200 head and a 1250 or 1275 conversation kit from you guys? Is the ratio safer with a stock 1200 head than a stock 883 head?
My question is do you have to dyno tune? I have heard that is a very expensive process. That pushes the price of conversion up over $2000 for those of us that can't do the labor ourselves. My top dollar to convert is $1,500. I do not need high performance I just want a bit more top end on the highway.
Hi Brian, this is covered in our kit installation instructions. Rather than repeat that information, follow this link, it takes you to the exact paragraph: www.hammerperf.com/ttinstallkit.shtml#dyno
I installed the 1275 kit on my 1990 xlh883, I'm confused about how to wire the ignition. My stock ignition is a 3 wire set up with a connector above the starter, the dyna 2000i-p ignition that was sent with the kit is a 5 wire set up and none of the wiring matches with my factory wiring, how do I wire the dyna ignition into my factory wiring?
Hi Nick, your 2Ki should have come with instructions. If not, you can download them here: www.powercommander.com/downloads/Support-Released/Dynatek/Manuals/D2Ki.pdf . See the wiring diagrams on page 5.
Ok looking at ur site on the web, I downloaded ur 110 hp package for my 2013 xl883... looking at it is different than how u explained in video considering you said u can take what I have now and convey it into what's needed... so that would take me sending my parts to u to do the work on instead you have a package (without ur recommended upgrade) of $799.00. I do know you know what ur doing which I'd love to have yall work on my bike but seems I'm not rich enough to get even ur least suggested package. Thanks
On a 2013 XL883, a successful conversion requires the engine kit, a suitable tuner, a clutch upgrade, and a pair of the spark plugs we specify. In addition to those requirements, there are two recommended items: the ring gapping/preassembly service, and the Cometic EST top end gasket set. Most guys just do it the easy way and get the complete conversion "package", which contains everything listed above. You can find it here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#basic But everything that's in the package is also available individually, at the following links: 1250 kits: www.hammerperf.com/xlbigborekits.shtml#1250ordering 1275 kits: www.hammerperf.com/xlbigborekits.shtml#1275ordering All of the other required and recommended items: www.hammerperf.com/xlbigborekits.shtml#1250options
99% of the time, our performance conversion packages are installed without any lower end upgrades. In fact, these kits can be installed in an afternoon without even pulling the engine out of the frame. Ridden normally, the kits have no effect on the reliability or longevity of the stock lower end. Spend a lot of time at high rpm and sure, you create a risk, but in normal riding there is no difference. However, for guys who want an upgrade and are willing to do a full tear-down, we offer this crank: www.hammerperf.com/images/newcrank.jpg . It's a massively improved crank with stronger rods, a bigger crankpin, and a bigger sprocket shaft. It's a bolt-in for 2004+ Sportsters, and we offer a retrofit service to install it in 91-03 bikes: www.hammerperf.com/xllowerend.shtml#crankconversion
This might be a stupid question but do you have a 3 angle seating ? I Have built V-8 dragster engines that made better seating . Just asking if this is relevant. If not needed that would be awesome
Modern carbide seat cutters don't limit you to simple multi-angle seat profiles the way stones do. Sure, they can still do multiple angles, and in much better controlled sizes than stones. But they also allow you to precisely radius the area above and/or below the 45 degree sealing surface, which can have advantages depending on valve back cut and port shape. We use carbide seat cutters in this manner and have optimized the seat profile around the valves and the port design.
1200 heads are expensive, and you can reach any given power level less expensively by modifying your 883 heads instead. That's what our 883-1275 conversion packages are all about.
Your talking wizardry to me.. But it's cool that you know this much about engineering, please help me. I ride a 160hp monster s but just recently got a sportster 883 in mat black some eagle iron edition thing. It's the most beautiful HD bike in the best collor of the series to me, that's why i got it and also not to wake my neighbors up every night with that SC project flamethrower. But i find the ride of the HD equivalent to what i call a scooter, and would like to get 110 or 120hp out of it if i can. Is that posible and do you know someone in Europe who can help me do what you just showed us? Did you ever cooperate with someone from theses parts and what do you suggest?
You can read about our 110hp package here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#110hp and our 120hp package here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#120hp . Download the sample quote to see everything included and what it costs. There are several good shops in Europe who can install it. But it's not difficult to do yourself. These are bolt-on packages that can be installed in an afternoon without even pulling the engine out of the frame. We provide instructions and videos and tech support 7 days a week. Most of our customers are do-it-yourselfers.
A clutch upgrade may or may not be needed, depending on the year and model of your Sportster and how far up the power chain you plan to take it. Let me know the year, whether it's an 883 or 1200, and your ultimate power goal and I can be more specific.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE my sportster is a 2002. 883 with five thousand miles. If we can get around 80 hp. I'd be happy. I want to change the front sprocket to 1200 gearing. How much hp can those stock drive belts take?Thanks.
@@glengerdes2447 See the 80+hp conversion package here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#80hp . No need to upgrade the clutch. The belt is more than strong enough too. That package has everything you need. Download the sample quote to see everything included and what it costs. Contact us using this form and we'll get you fixed up: www.hammerperf.com/contactus.shtml#salesform
Well, we don't sell 1200 conversions so I can't comment on that. But I can tell you that the majority of our customers report an improvement in fuel mileage after installing a 1250 or 1275 kit. You have to remember, the bike still needs the same power level to go a given speed as it did before the conversion. For example, if it needed 15hp to go 60mph before the conversion, it still needs 15hp to go 60mph after the conversion. You're in control of that power with your right hand. You're going to automatically apply the correct amount of throttle to make 15hp and go 60mph. The fact that it can make a whole lot more if you open up the throttle is really irrelevant to the fuel mileage when cruising. At the end of the day, fuel mileage is a function of how efficiently the motor turns fuel into power, not how much power the motor is capable of making. The efficiency gains you get from raising compression, which is a part of almost every conversion, can actually cause an improvement in fuel mileage.
No sorry. This is an EVO XL engine and not the same engine as the modular twin in your street. There honestly isnt much out there for that engine. Not even cams.... sell it and pick you up a nice sporty.
There are a ton of different things that can cause excessive valvetrain noise. Incorrect pushrod length is one of many possible causes. When using hydraulic lifters, the pushrod length must preload the lifter plunger an amount that keeps it in it's self-adjusting range over the range of top end growth the motor encounters. But that can be accomplished just fine without adjustable pushrods. Adjustable pushrods may be the easiest way to do it, but certainly not the best way. A non-adjustable pushrod of the correct length is the best solution, in terms of cost, strength, weight, simplicity, and reliability. We offer non-adjustable pushrods in a variety of lengths and we show three different methods for determining the correct length in this tech article: www.hammerperf.com/ttpushrodlength.shtml . When we put together a package, we select pushrod length using method #1, and we suggest the customer check it during assembly using method #2.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE Very interesting article! I was of the impression/reassurance from the dealership that pushrods for Sportster do not need any adjustment despite putting high performance cams, valve springs and tappets! Hope no harm is taking place though! Should I be alarmed?
@@100streamliner Well, I'm sure you understand, I have no way of knowing whether or not your particular combination requires different length pushrods, at least not without knowing all the details as listed out in the top of that tech article. I would say that if you're concerned, then check them with method #2: www.hammerperf.com/ttpushrodlength.shtml#method2 . That's really the only way to know for sure. I will say though that we always upgrade the pushrods to chrome moly pieces when using heavier valve springs, even if there's no need to change the length.
Sorry if I trigger you but with a conversion kit on my 883 (to 1200) will I get the same speed that a regular 1200 does or what?Can someone please tell me what exactly it does?
We would need quite a few more details to be able to answer that question. For example, depending on the specific years and models you're talking about, the two bikes may have different stock cams. Also it depends on how the conversion was done, for example whether it's done with 883 heads or 1200 heads. If you want to give me all the details, I'll try my best to answer.
@@aggelossimadis2511 It just occurred to me that you're asking about an 883 to 1200 conversion. We stopped doing 883 to 1200 conversions several years ago. We offer your choice of 883-to-1250 or 883-to-1275 conversions. You can read all about them here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#basic . If you want info on an 883 to 1200 conversion instead, there are many companies that offer them. But not us.
Why is my 1000cc 76 xlch an orphan??? I so want to do this to it but the only option I can find is the S&S stroker kit... 2 grand plus labor is just not happening for that!
Purely business reasons. There are upfront costs associated with developing and bringing products to market. There's simply not enough volume on Ironheads to recoup those costs and realize a profit.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE I understand. I can only imagine that if HD continued making the 1000 that there would be kits for it... but they did make them for 14 yrs... gotta be a lot of people that would invest in an upgrade....
The focus here is all on increasing horsepower and performance. What about a guy like me who wants more torque and is willing to sacrifice performance for an engine that runs cooler and lasts longer? I just want to get down the road better with more speed and better handling.
Ultimately, torque is two things: Cylinder pressure and it's mechanical advantage on the crank (aka displacement). So to get more torque, you either have to raise cylinder pressure or raise displacement or both. Raising cylinder pressure increases the heat generated, it doesn't decrease it. So that's contradictory to your goal. Therefore I would suggest focusing on making the motor bigger. Since you're watching this video, I'm assuming you have an 883. The Basic Conversion Package is available in your choice of 1250 or 1275 displacements and either one delivers a massive increase in torque. Read all about it and also see the dyno sheets here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#basic .
You can find a complete description, including dyno sheets, for each of our performance conversion packages here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#packages
You will never see 140ftlbs of torque on a stock set of engine cases. They just don't support the displacement required. The best you can do is 90cu in and around 110-115ft lbs, depending on cam choice. That requires the cases to be taken apart and bored out. On stock cases, with stock 2004+ 1200 heads and a 1275cc big bore kit you can get over 90ft-lbs and 100hp with Hammer's 570 cams, which I think is the best cost/benefit right now for a torque oriented setup.
@@depthsounderdave David is exactly right on all counts. Fundamentally, engine torque comes from two things: cylinder pressure and it's mechanical advantage on the crank. Available fuel and cooling capacity place limits on the cylinder pressure, even if you can achieve the cylinder fill you'd need. "Mechanical advantage on the crank" is a fancy way of saying "displacement". So to make that much engine torque, at a workable cylinder pressure, you have to make the motor big. The stock cases limit how big you can make it. At stock motor height, 90ci is the practical limit, which is capable of putting you right into the range David mentioned. You can go bigger by combining bore with stroke, but the motor will be taller and won't fit in the stock chassis without frame mods. And 140ft-lbs would take a very big motor on anything resembling pump gas. Any motor build bigger than1275 requires a full tear-down and lots of expensive parts, too. You can't hardly do a 90ci conversion for less than about $5K. A 1275 by comparison is a lot less expensive and can be installed in an afternoon without even pulling the engine out of the bike. I have no idea who David is, but he knows what he's talking about. If you really want 140ft-lbs, you should go get a Big Twin and make the motor as big as possible. I think you'll end up disappointed if you try to make a Sportster run like a Big Twin. That's not what they're made for.
I'm just a home hobbiest, engineer, amateur engine builder, and potential future customer who is doing his research on a torque oriented build. I've spoken with Alex a few times and am trying to diagnose a potentially bad crank before I send in my engine for a XR1200 crank and 90" big bore.
you say those are the same heads but make no mention of all that material filling in the chamber of the second head. why not just start with 1986 883 heads? that way you would not have to weld in the chamber and risk dropping a seat. am I wrong about this? where did all that material come from? if you started with a 1986b head you would have had to weld it in.
None of the heads shown in this video have any material added to the chambers at all. The first two heads shown have factory stock chambers. The third head shown has an 883 chamber that's been machined, material removed only, no material added.
are the 1998 to 2003 sportster sport/thunder storm with the dual spark plugs really that much better or just some what better? or can i just get a normal 1200 and build of off that. i would like a 1200S with the dual spark plugs heads but for the price definition for a normal 1200 IDK if its woth the extra $1,500 or so. hope that makes since. and keep up the vids.
If you've got an 883 and you want more power, the best, most cost effective path is to modify your 883 heads. The beauty of 883 heads is they have a lot of material in all the right places and that allows us to make a really great head out of them. We've made over 130hp at 1275cc using 883 heads! So all of our performance conversion packages are based on modifying your 883 heads. See the packages here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#packages Now, that said, if you really want to do the conversion with 1200 heads instead, avoid the the 98-03 1200S head like the plague. It's not a "Thunderstorm" at all, it's a dual plugged version of the 96-98 Buell "Lightning" head, so named because it was first introduced on the 1996 Buell S1 Lightning. This head has the same small 1.720/1.480 valve sizes as found on the standard 88-03 XL1200 hemi heads, as well as the same crappy ports. Really the only difference between a standard 1200 hemi head and a Lightning head is some additional material in the chambers to reduce the chamber volume and raise compression to about 10:1 when used with flat tops. The Thunderstorm on the other hand was the second generation XL performance head, introduced on certain Buells in 1998 and then all of them beginning in 1999 and extending through the end of the tube frame models in 2002. This was a MAJOR improvement over the Lightning head, with larger 1.810/1.575 valve sizes, much improved ports, and a chamber that does not shroud the valves so badly - compression was increased via the use of a small dome piston instead, and a squish band was added. So don't confuse the 98-03 1200S heads with the Thunderstorms. Two completely different animals. The 1200S "Lightning" heads are not in the same league with Thunderstorms and you should not spend money to get a set, not for a performance project anyway. The third generation of XL performance head is the XB head, as introduced on the 2003 Buell XB9 model, and then propagated to all XL1200's beginning in 2004. This head is significantly better than the Thunderstorms in several ways, and if you're doing a performance project, this is your best bet. The Thunderstorm was a great head in it's day, don't get me wrong, but it's day has passed. Read more here: www.hammerperf.com/ttxlheads.shtml
hey man, i got one!!! 2001 xl1200c it leaks oil so need to figure out where that is coming from. and i few other things. have you ever used a fluorescent dye for leak detection? just wondering. ill be calling you soon so see what i might need. thanks!!
Guys do it, but some have piston to valve contact, it really pushes the clearance. I guarantee you that you'll be much tighter than the recommended .050" intake and .080" exhaust clearance. It's not something we would ever put a customer into, simply because some percentage of them would have a problem.
The Feuling 505/515 cams have very low TDC lifts (.150/.137) and therefore they create no issues with valve-to-valve or valve-to-piston clearance. However, the reason the cams have such low TDC lifts is because they have so little overlap (26 degrees), which will limit their power gains. Also, the relatively late 48 degree intake close point will move the powerband up the rpm scale at the expense of bottom end and mid range. So know what you're getting before you go with those cams. Also read this: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#faq1
Thanks for breaking it down to such a level! The knowledge you have and are sharing is respected!
Bless you and thy home and may it be full restore all taken. Restoring to you all that has be taken by . By Faith we live by love we give all. And by Thy Father's sound mind we sing praises only a beloved sons and Daughters fill with the Spirit that was what you always needed to overcome all that is in this world and seeks to deceive you an keep you from receiving the one whom was the in love and not lack for the Father doesn't do such. For you have not because not asking not lack or less but Sons and Daughter and nothing less. For nothing is or was with held only the wisdom to wield it as you grow that comes in the eye and hearing of the good Father does it. To grow you right and guide your way not as tyrant as others had done of other things. He will not bless that way and is watching his son and strengthens as we grow into the power he gave. Never was the grave the way given by the for a eternal Father wants to be in the life of his children and by relationship we are known and seen. Not forgotten an grieve. His is Good and wants his children to learn to be honorable just the same as they came from. Not trodden under foot of any enemies that seek to hurt what they believe less than they. Due to that which taught such and stole what was his always. Giving you working by sweat of brow and blood and child birth was to teach you the cost of and his loss and pain. Helping bring you close and to mind when your children are stray! Thoe you thought they were lost. Never were they for the testing of the Spirits was to grow and teach how he equipped and withheld nothing from just to let you know that always were you of light and power not lack and desire and want or thirst just to teach you to be alert. And not pervert and steal and be deserted. But to bring full circle and back to that which you are and restore the smile upon his Father's face and give to the all his children whom need him for he loves you not destroys you. Stands against all enemies and bold knowing truth and thy Spirit within moving an healing an restoring what was to be always. Love you children be good one to the other honoring what is and was for you to know good truth and the love always for you and fights for you to have nothing but all that he gives in an through and for him as well you whom loves you and came to help andrestore you unto. Always best never less or lack . Thank you all for lifting and bringing strength in love and song and word. For it is what feed you as well. Love you
Coming from a machining background, I appreciate your mind set on tolerances, and really knowing what the hell your talking about. I’m considering buying a iron 883 and will probably need mill work done to the heads. You have my business when I do buy the bike.
Give this man a raise.knows his stuff
Very well done description.
greats from Bavaria
I don't even own a Harley, but these videos are so informative I'm watching them all....
I love listening to people that obviously know their shit inside out and back to front. Great video.
Blew my engine in my XL 1200 C. I have been wanting to rebuild it for a couple of years now. SO thankful I stumbled across this video. I will be ordering replacement parts from Hammer Performance and upgrade the power to my engine. Really looking forward to doing that now.
me too want to do the same, if i buy a 1200custom in future, seriously want the full blown 120_+ engine kit, but worried how much will it cost when it reaches me , after all that custom clearance.
Great information, you evidently know and understand what your doing, unlike some,.you live and learn every day. thanks for a really good and informative video,
Awesome video Aaron and it's great to understand what makes good power and why. Now I'm going to start saving for the Smash heads for my 1250!
I love your products ,nothing but great gains from that! Great knowledge Aron.Thank you for all your help! Anyone who read this make shure you tell this to all the crew! Thank you again! These guys did a great job for me even overseas respect!
I enjoyed your 2 883 videos. Thank you.
I live in CDA and recently picked up a 2013 Iron 883. I’ve been adding a lot of upgrades to it over the last month. This 1275 kit will be my winter project. I’ll be up there to see you soon!
Brilliantly explained 👏👏
1275 kit already ordered 👍
Thanks u for this video, Recently picked up an iron 883 that needs more torque/hp and u explained what i need to get to do that.. Just need a few more bucks now :D
So much great info! Thanks for taking the time to do these videos!!
Thanks for the videos Hammer and Aaron!!
Hammer performance and Aaron are the best!
This is awesome, I love learning via RUclips. Dyno vids would be amazing!
I mean I am late to the feast with this comment but you are doing the exact right thing with these in-depth analysis videos. You are increasing the confidence of your customers to do a conversion and also demystifying the technology and the labour involved. Thank you.
Great vid I just ordered your 1275 kit for my 98 1200 excited to get it together
Hi Mike
Thanks for the Business!
Good luck on the build!
It runs like a mo fo now I want to get my heads done with your crush. Service
@Serge .L the conversion is WAY EASY a novice with tools and patience can do it.
Extremely well explained, thank you!
This video literally just answered everything I needed to know about this situation and help me make my decision on how to spec my build from you guys. I was sent a quote a few months back on the 120+HP kit, and I was going to get SE cnc ported heads from HD. No way in hell am I doing that now. I will be sending my heads to you guys to work your magic! What is the turn around time on the Sledge head work I was quoted on, or is the quoted price for a set of heads already set up? I am looking forward to working with you guys to build my dream XL!
Turn around on SLEDGE 883 heads (110+ package) is about 3 weeks currently and BFH (120+) is about 4. The fastest turn around time of the year is right now.
Great video. You explain things very well. Keep up to good work
I always click real fast when I see you guys upload a video!
Thanks Ace, we appreciate that!
A lot of useful info. That poor 1200 head sitting off to the side needs its own video.
Good input. ...keep video's coming good stuff!
Impressive presentation.
now that I've subscribed , I'm gonna get myself a 883 Sporty ... no seriously ...
@Random dude because a titled ownership that says 883 is cheeper on insurance even if you convert it to a 1275 , 1200 cc ownership will cost more to insure ...also there is a gear differance between 883 tranny compared to a 1200 transmition , i was told the 883 has better gear ratios .i have an 883 and have rode a 1200 and i do believe the transmition ratios are different . But there are a couple reasons for you to go 883 if your looking to go big with a sporty, im doing a conversion as soon as i save enough to do it all ...
@@4486xxdawson any difference in insurance premiums between 882 and 1200 is very minimal.. at best.
I went with hammer 1275 kit, using XB heads and going with the larger valves 190, and 160. Of course ported. I run and S&S Super-G carburetor with a 1-inch spacer in a thunder jet with a 110 jet, running and 93 main jet in a 36 intermediate, using a supertrapp modified two into one exhaust, I dumped the stock baffles in made my own. Let's just say my bike is very very happy. Beware S&S carburetor users, you have to cut I believe two maybe three fins off the cylinders I can't recall right now so the carb will bolt up to the heads. I know one thing my bike halls ass
Super interesting
I am trully inrerested in your products and willcontact you shortly.
Real good info! A+ info, A+ Company!
I need to find an 883 now!
I was thinking the same thing
The folks at Hammer Performance are exceptional humans.
Thanks brother
Nice informative video!!
Been looking for an upgrade ever since i bought my bike(Needed some new gaskets anyway), its all in boxes ready to start building, cash ready to change hands but the issue is that i can't find any Hammer p parts in my country :( Importing is pretty silly right now. Atm all the plans i had have been halted(Intended to upgrade engine / paint everything / build stiff frame to continue the bobber style / continue tidy up electronics / new bars and rims) I'm tempted to just paint and slap it all together again instead. The basic 1250 or 1275 kits is what has been on my list. I guess the dream lives on for a little bit longer :D
We ship all over the world, every day.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE Yeah :D Import parts here from the states is expensive doe :/ And with corona, shipping in general have been pretty bad. Do you know of any delays to the Nordic countries? Big stuff from China(And other countries ofc) pretty much have halted(In my case, e-bikes / astro gear to name a few).
Can you guys please make some videos on the 90ci kit info on n it and also videos of installation and what you'll need things like this in purchasing one and would really appreciate the extra on information and any guide to help complete the process more smoothly.
I know who I'm coming to when I'm ready to upgrade My 883.
i had my sportster 1200 for sale .... now I'll keep it just to play with it... I love to play with engines and anything on wheels... I am sick!
Outstanding video !
#1 should I start out with a 1200vs.883
fuel injected sportster,because of the heads ?
#2 it's $1695.00 for the F.i -1275 b.b. kit
If I utilize the 1200 heads for porting , can I save $$$ by just buying your H.Comp. 20 over pistons & you boring my cylinders ?
#3 any downsides to using my jugs other than losing 75c.c.s and will I lose some torque/H.P. ?
Thanks in advance Hammer 😎
Thank you Sir .
Did you guys ever do a video or discuss the heat difference between a stock 883 & a 1250/1275?
Do they run hotter….enough to be concerned about?
Looking at converting my XLH883 and am concerned about loosing reliability
There are a handful of reliability issues on the Evolution Sportster platform that pop-up when the power level is raised. None are related to heat, however.
Good fixes exist for all of them. Many of the fixes came from HD themselves, and were rolled into the stock bikes over the years. So which reliability upgrades you need is a function of the year of your bike, and generally speaking, the newer it is, the fewer of those upgrades it needs. For a 2007+ bike, it's a pretty short list. For a 1991 bike, it's a pretty long list. Contact us for more details: www.hammerperf.com/contactus.shtml#salesform
I have 2013 HD iron its that compatible in my bike and how much the complete kit to make it 1275?
See here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#basic
Awesome info!!! Can I get one for 1200 heads!?!??
Hi Robert
Stay Tuned!
awesome video!
I wish you make something for Harley Street 750.
Love it
You guys really provide great information on it. I have an '05 sportster 883 carbureted. I am considering purchasing the 1275 kit. I see the bolt on kit and then I see the complete conversion kit for a higher price. What is the difference between the kits?
Hi Edwin
It is just that, the big bore kit is just the big bore kit, and the complete conversion kit is a turn key package with the ignition module, jets for the carb, etc.
Great vid . . Many thanks
Great video
I wanna know more about stroke increase. And 13:1 compression
Valve stem length won't change how much the valves open and close the lobe on the camshaft and the rocker arm ratio determines that ..
Valve stem protrusion most definitely affects valve train geometry, and thus how much lift you get out of a set of cams.
In a nutshell, to get max lift you need a stem protrusion that centers the rocker tip travel, so that at half lift, you have a right angle between the valve stem and a line drawn between the stem tip and the center of the rocker shaft. To the extent you vary from that, you'll get less lift than what's dictated by the lobe lift times the rocker ratio.
Although it's a difficult thing to measure directly, there's a simple rule of thumb that gets you close: increase stem protrusion by half the amount you're increasing lift. So for example, if the factory stem protrusion spec is 1.900, and it comes from the factory with .500 lift cams, and you go installing .600 lift cams, you want a 1.950 stem protrusion. That keeps the rocker tip arc centered, thus giving you maximum lift.
Some guys intentionally set stem protrusion a tad long, and then iterate, stacking rocker gaskets and measuring how much lift they're getting, until they find the gasket stack that gets them the maximum. This is generally only done on race motors, few street guys go to this extreme.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE You were not talking about valve stem Protruision ..
You said Longer Valve Stems make it more likely for the valve to hit the Piston during valve overlap. This is not True. If you were to change where the valve seats are it could get the valves closer to the pistions.
I built a 488 Cube BB Chevy Tall deck Truck engine for my C-65 Chevy I used a 4.25 stroke crank Longer Crower rods and stock flat top 454 chevy forged car pistons.. The second crane cam I used had I think .515 lift on the exhaust valves.. I had coil bind .. So i used shorter valve springs for a Clevland Ford..
Turns out the truck engines have shorter valve stems than car engines use.. The 427 chevy Truck engine only had .390 lift on the stock cam
@@mikeskidmore6754 The longer stems found in 883 heads absolutely do reduce p-v clearance and therefore make them more likely to hit the piston during overlap.
But it's not because the longer stems create more lift. It's because the valves start out closer to the pistons than they do with 1200 heads. Sorry if I wasn't clear on that point in the video. I thought it was obvious, my bad.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE Sounds like the valves are closer to the Pistons and they are at an angle that pushes them closer to the pistons with less valve lift at overlap,
I saw your dyno chart for redone 883 heads vs 1203 Sportster heads.. How do the 2008 Buell 1203 Thunderstorm heads compare?
Guess a 1203 is around 70 Cubic Inches.. I was reading about your 90 Cubic inch big bore kit with Cast Iron Cylinders.. I guess that would be 1474 CC's I can't justify spending a lot of money to go to 1275 CC's but 1,474 CC's would make a nice gain in Torque...
I took my Stock Buell to the Drag strip I ran faster quarter mile times shifting @ 6,000 RPM's than at 7,,000 RPMS..
I ran 12.7 @ 110 MPH .. I need to learn to ride the rear brake off from the line .. can't keep the front end on the gound ..
Thx. And BTW, you're the kind of wrencher every rider looks for.
120+ HP Sportster? You guys are crazy. I just bought a used 883 that somebody did the 1200 kit and some Screaming Eagle whatever, and it's fast, fast enough for me. I know it's nowhere near 120 HP though. I do start sliding off the seat and the front wheel is beginning to come off the ground, so that's fast enough for me. It's a Sportster for sure. Enough for me.
Aaron how much for a 2011 883 Iron Sportster to your 1275 kit the piston and the sleeve?
Thank you for this. Can you link the previous vid as you talked about at the beginning?
Sure, here you go: ruclips.net/video/F9d-AJ3R6Js/видео.html
See all of our videos here: ruclips.net/channel/UCm-C_FPfbVCNIjgg7N7qh4Q
Great video! Very informative in layman's terms. I appreciate that. I've been looking at your products for awhile but when my bike was down riding weather was coming so I put it back stock. I'm still hoping to get it built eventually. My question is do you get better performance from your sledge head or would a guy be better off to get 1200 heads?
The packages reflect the most cost effective way to reach their power levels. You can read about them here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#packages . Download the sample quotes to see everything included and what it costs. SLEDGE porting comes in at the 110+ level and BFH porting comes in at the 120+ level. Equivalency of stock 1200 heads varies depending on the year of the 1200 heads, but no stock 1200 heads come anywhere near the SLEDGE level. That's a serious level that makes for a really great head. SLEDGE and BFH are such major surgery to the heads that you can do it to either 883 heads or 1200 heads and they come out entirely equivalent.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE thank you for the quick reply.
I have been watching your videos and studying your sight. I would love to have a 120hp sportster but I don't know if I can justify it. 😁
Have you seen any Iron 883's that consistently damage/bend the spark plug ground strap, and damage/crack the ceramic insulator that surrounds the electrode?
Could pre-ignition do that?
I'm power hungry and want to do the 120+ kit kind of out of spite but how much is to much with stock tires. Where does the power start becoming a "pain" to deal with as a daily, I'm cool with 1st, and 2nd getting lose and maybe a chirp in 3rd but nothing past that. 90hp maybe 100hp a good stopping point? (Currently running commander 2 for tire)
The 120 package is very streetable. It all comes down to how you ride the bike. The 120 package is very well mannered.
I'd say 90 yes, I've built a 120 kit would hold the front tire thru 4th....
Can we see these in action? like before and after the upgrade on a dyno
we'll see what we can do. It's all about time management lol
arnold321ful that would be awesome!!
Visit xlforum. Besides being the best online Sporty resource it has MANY happy Hammer owners and plenty of dyno charts. I'm not affiliated, but spend a lot of time there.
HAMMER PERFORMANCE I would love to see this. There are no other videos like that on RUclips and it would help considerably in making the step towards this upgrade if people could see the gains.
I heard you won't be charged extra by your insurance company even after doing a conversion because it's still titled as an 883. Is that true?
They don’t know what power plant you got in there. To them it’s just an 883. Don’t disclose that information.
If you have a accident they are likely to check, especially with hd Sportsters as it allows them to get off Scott free and not pay out. It will drive the price up but not much as it's an engine modification.
Honesty is always the best option
@@angus_white Disagree
Queston?? Do I have to boar out the cases to go to a 1275 on my 883?
Absolutely not. The 1275 is a bolt-on that can be installed in an afternoon without even pulling the engine out of the frame.
Do you guys have ways to make hp with ironheads?
Sorry, we dont work on anything that old.
Dang
Yes write up for an hour work on them for 3
Tatro Machine in San Diego, Ca. Keenan Tatro is the guy you want for Ironheads.
Does increased overlap also cause more unburned air/fuel mixture to be exhausted before the exhaust cam closes?
It could be, to correct that; AFR gauge, ignition timing must come into play.
So whats that cost to have u do everything u talked about in the video
Hi Aaron, i did the basic conversion 883/1200 last year, changed stem valves, cleaned, all new gasket and seals piston rings etc.... kit came from USA with dished pistons, not shiny chromed once but matt aluminium ones, (tell me if ok), but did not do anything with ignition as you suggest in the basic conversion video,, i am trying to understand why and what to buy in regards to it as expensive stuff, so....what happen if you leave the 883 ignition control module into a 1200 conversion and do i have to adjust or change ignition sensor?? i did re jet 45/190 and rebuilt carb...but realised ( after tuning carb myself) that spark plugs are always fouled and the vibrations are more intense as bits in aluminium all over the bike especially handlebar switches are braking including exhaust support bracket at the bottom ( last muffler), at 70 mph all shakes too bad, on my 96 sporty, bare in mind that i checked tightness of bolts and nuts all round, please tell me why, what to buy and send me links please, i should have bought the conversion kit from you in the first place but sorry did not know you were in business. p s.. my top speed is 110 mph. thanks.
The ignition we recommend for your application is a Dyna 2000, in your case the 8-pin external module. It's available in your choice of dual fire only (recommended, as it costs less and you'll never know the difference) or single/dual fire (single fire mode requires a new coil as well). You can find it here: www.hammerperf.com/xlignition.shtml#modules . We have a video that shows how to static time it here: www.hammerperf.com/ttvideos.shtml#statictiming . The video is for the 2000i but it's done the same way. No idea on the vibration, sorry, most of our customers report less vibration after installing our kits. Good luck.
What's up 🤙🏻
I have a 2011 IRON Sportster I have a
U say u do all of this but doesnt say how to get ahold of yall... which what u said in this video is what I need done to my 2013 iron883 to 110+ horsepower package.... so how much? Who to call?
Is there any combinations you recommend for flattening the torque curve on these sportsters? Maybe not making them a hot rod, but just making the whole RPM range more usable than say idle- 4500.
Don't underestimate the effect of the exhaust on the shape of the torque curve. It's massive, particularly when the cams have overlap.
Give a read to our library of XL exhaust system dyno test results, you'll see what I'm talking about. You can effect just humongous changes in the shape of the torque curve by swapping exhausts and nothing else: www.hammerperf.com/ttxlexhaust.shtml
I did an exhaust, jets, and filter and it moved the power up the curve. Less torque off idle, but revs better.
Why not use the 1200 head and get a piston for that. Do you have a Hammer kit for the 1200?
1200 heads require the same level of head work to reach these high power levels as 883 heads do. It's such major surgery to the heads that it doesn't matter at all whether you start with 883 heads or 1200 heads, they come out identical either way. So if you're starting with an 883, there's no point in buying 1200 heads, you're just wasting money.
Now sure, at the lower and mid range power levels, we approach it differently depending on whether the customer has an 883 or 1200. The idea is always to achieve the target power level in the most cost-effective way possible.
So what kind of valve clearance issues or lack there of appear when you use a stock 1200 head and a 1250 or 1275 conversation kit from you guys? Is the ratio safer with a stock 1200 head than a stock 883 head?
What year 1200 heads are you referring to?
My question is do you have to dyno tune? I have heard that is a very expensive process. That pushes the price of conversion up over $2000 for those of us that can't do the labor ourselves. My top dollar to convert is $1,500. I do not need high performance I just want a bit more top end on the highway.
Hi Brian, this is covered in our kit installation instructions. Rather than repeat that information, follow this link, it takes you to the exact paragraph: www.hammerperf.com/ttinstallkit.shtml#dyno
🔥
I installed the 1275 kit on my 1990 xlh883, I'm confused about how to wire the ignition. My stock ignition is a 3 wire set up with a connector above the starter, the dyna 2000i-p ignition that was sent with the kit is a 5 wire set up and none of the wiring matches with my factory wiring, how do I wire the dyna ignition into my factory wiring?
Hi Nick, your 2Ki should have come with instructions. If not, you can download them here: www.powercommander.com/downloads/Support-Released/Dynatek/Manuals/D2Ki.pdf . See the wiring diagrams on page 5.
Ok looking at ur site on the web, I downloaded ur 110 hp package for my 2013 xl883... looking at it is different than how u explained in video considering you said u can take what I have now and convey it into what's needed... so that would take me sending my parts to u to do the work on instead you have a package (without ur recommended upgrade) of $799.00. I do know you know what ur doing which I'd love to have yall work on my bike but seems I'm not rich enough to get even ur least suggested package. Thanks
On a 2013 XL883, a successful conversion requires the engine kit, a suitable tuner, a clutch upgrade, and a pair of the spark plugs we specify. In addition to those requirements, there are two recommended items: the ring gapping/preassembly service, and the Cometic EST top end gasket set.
Most guys just do it the easy way and get the complete conversion "package", which contains everything listed above. You can find it here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#basic
But everything that's in the package is also available individually, at the following links:
1250 kits: www.hammerperf.com/xlbigborekits.shtml#1250ordering
1275 kits: www.hammerperf.com/xlbigborekits.shtml#1275ordering
All of the other required and recommended items: www.hammerperf.com/xlbigborekits.shtml#1250options
sell kits for 86 xlh1100?
evo?
Great video!!! How about the crank? do you keep it stock or do you modify it? Thank you!!!
99% of the time, our performance conversion packages are installed without any lower end upgrades. In fact, these kits can be installed in an afternoon without even pulling the engine out of the frame. Ridden normally, the kits have no effect on the reliability or longevity of the stock lower end. Spend a lot of time at high rpm and sure, you create a risk, but in normal riding there is no difference. However, for guys who want an upgrade and are willing to do a full tear-down, we offer this crank: www.hammerperf.com/images/newcrank.jpg . It's a massively improved crank with stronger rods, a bigger crankpin, and a bigger sprocket shaft. It's a bolt-in for 2004+ Sportsters, and we offer a retrofit service to install it in 91-03 bikes: www.hammerperf.com/xllowerend.shtml#crankconversion
HAMMER PERFORMANCE. Thank you so much that helps a lot.
So this obviously means even with this mod you still keep the distinctive harley sound?
This might be a stupid question but do you have a 3 angle seating ? I Have built V-8 dragster engines that made better seating . Just asking if this is relevant. If not needed that would be awesome
Modern carbide seat cutters don't limit you to simple multi-angle seat profiles the way stones do. Sure, they can still do multiple angles, and in much better controlled sizes than stones. But they also allow you to precisely radius the area above and/or below the 45 degree sealing surface, which can have advantages depending on valve back cut and port shape. We use carbide seat cutters in this manner and have optimized the seat profile around the valves and the port design.
Gday guys, if your going to go for a 1200 big bore kit. Wouldn’t you go for 1200 heads
1200 heads are expensive, and you can reach any given power level less expensively by modifying your 883 heads instead. That's what our 883-1275 conversion packages are all about.
Do youguys at Hammer Performance warranty your product? If so, where/how does it apply?
You can read about our warranty here: www.hammerperf.com/contactus.shtml#termsandconditions
My Stock 2008 Buell 1203 Cc Thunderstorm engine still eats the Sportsters up..
Are you guys still in business? Just noticed you've been inactive on here.
So do u need 1200 jugs
Your talking wizardry to me.. But it's cool that you know this much about engineering, please help me.
I ride a 160hp monster s but just recently got a sportster 883 in mat black some eagle iron edition thing. It's the most beautiful HD bike in the best collor of the series to me, that's why i got it and also not to wake my neighbors up every night with that SC project flamethrower. But i find the ride of the HD equivalent to what i call a scooter, and would like to get 110 or 120hp out of it if i can. Is that posible and do you know someone in Europe who can help me do what you just showed us? Did you ever cooperate with someone from theses parts and what do you suggest?
You can read about our 110hp package here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#110hp and our 120hp package here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#120hp . Download the sample quote to see everything included and what it costs. There are several good shops in Europe who can install it. But it's not difficult to do yourself. These are bolt-on packages that can be installed in an afternoon without even pulling the engine out of the frame. We provide instructions and videos and tech support 7 days a week. Most of our customers are do-it-yourselfers.
I want to get one of your kits. The stock clutch is about as stiff as I can pull. Any suggestions? I know improvement on the clutch is needed.
A clutch upgrade may or may not be needed, depending on the year and model of your Sportster and how far up the power chain you plan to take it. Let me know the year, whether it's an 883 or 1200, and your ultimate power goal and I can be more specific.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE my sportster is a 2002. 883 with five thousand miles. If we can get around 80 hp. I'd be happy. I want to change the front sprocket to 1200 gearing. How much hp can those stock drive belts take?Thanks.
@@glengerdes2447 See the 80+hp conversion package here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#80hp . No need to upgrade the clutch. The belt is more than strong enough too. That package has everything you need. Download the sample quote to see everything included and what it costs. Contact us using this form and we'll get you fixed up: www.hammerperf.com/contactus.shtml#salesform
how much does your mpgs suffer when you do the 883 to 1200 conversion?
Well, we don't sell 1200 conversions so I can't comment on that. But I can tell you that the majority of our customers report an improvement in fuel mileage after installing a 1250 or 1275 kit.
You have to remember, the bike still needs the same power level to go a given speed as it did before the conversion. For example, if it needed 15hp to go 60mph before the conversion, it still needs 15hp to go 60mph after the conversion. You're in control of that power with your right hand. You're going to automatically apply the correct amount of throttle to make 15hp and go 60mph. The fact that it can make a whole lot more if you open up the throttle is really irrelevant to the fuel mileage when cruising.
At the end of the day, fuel mileage is a function of how efficiently the motor turns fuel into power, not how much power the motor is capable of making. The efficiency gains you get from raising compression, which is a part of almost every conversion, can actually cause an improvement in fuel mileage.
Can this be done to a harley street rod
No sorry. This is an EVO XL engine and not the same engine as the modular twin in your street. There honestly isnt much out there for that engine. Not even cams.... sell it and pick you up a nice sporty.
Is it normal to experience increased valve train/rocker noise after the conversion? Is it because of the pushrods not being adjustable?
There are a ton of different things that can cause excessive valvetrain noise. Incorrect pushrod length is one of many possible causes. When using hydraulic lifters, the pushrod length must preload the lifter plunger an amount that keeps it in it's self-adjusting range over the range of top end growth the motor encounters. But that can be accomplished just fine without adjustable pushrods. Adjustable pushrods may be the easiest way to do it, but certainly not the best way. A non-adjustable pushrod of the correct length is the best solution, in terms of cost, strength, weight, simplicity, and reliability. We offer non-adjustable pushrods in a variety of lengths and we show three different methods for determining the correct length in this tech article: www.hammerperf.com/ttpushrodlength.shtml . When we put together a package, we select pushrod length using method #1, and we suggest the customer check it during assembly using method #2.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE Very interesting article! I was of the impression/reassurance from the dealership that pushrods for Sportster do not need any adjustment despite putting high performance cams, valve springs and tappets! Hope no harm is taking place though! Should I be alarmed?
@@100streamliner Well, I'm sure you understand, I have no way of knowing whether or not your particular combination requires different length pushrods, at least not without knowing all the details as listed out in the top of that tech article. I would say that if you're concerned, then check them with method #2: www.hammerperf.com/ttpushrodlength.shtml#method2 . That's really the only way to know for sure. I will say though that we always upgrade the pushrods to chrome moly pieces when using heavier valve springs, even if there's no need to change the length.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE Thank you very much! Much appreciated and again the article is superb! Will check as you point out using the 2nd method.
Sorry if I trigger you but with a conversion kit on my 883 (to 1200) will I get the same speed that a regular 1200 does or what?Can someone please tell me what exactly it does?
We would need quite a few more details to be able to answer that question. For example, depending on the specific years and models you're talking about, the two bikes may have different stock cams. Also it depends on how the conversion was done, for example whether it's done with 883 heads or 1200 heads. If you want to give me all the details, I'll try my best to answer.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE I m talking about 2016 model iron 883 and everything stock
@@aggelossimadis2511 It just occurred to me that you're asking about an 883 to 1200 conversion. We stopped doing 883 to 1200 conversions several years ago. We offer your choice of 883-to-1250 or 883-to-1275 conversions. You can read all about them here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#basic . If you want info on an 883 to 1200 conversion instead, there are many companies that offer them. But not us.
Why is my 1000cc 76 xlch an orphan??? I so want to do this to it but the only option I can find is the S&S stroker kit... 2 grand plus labor is just not happening for that!
Purely business reasons. There are upfront costs associated with developing and bringing products to market. There's simply not enough volume on Ironheads to recoup those costs and realize a profit.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE I understand. I can only imagine that if HD continued making the 1000 that there would be kits for it... but they did make them for 14 yrs... gotta be a lot of people that would invest in an upgrade....
Can I run the 560 cams with stock 883 heads?
The pistons may hit the valves. See here for more info on running cams with stock 883 heads: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#faq1
The focus here is all on increasing horsepower and performance. What about a guy like me who wants more torque and is willing to sacrifice performance for an engine that runs cooler and lasts longer? I just want to get down the road better with more speed and better handling.
Ultimately, torque is two things: Cylinder pressure and it's mechanical advantage on the crank (aka displacement). So to get more torque, you either have to raise cylinder pressure or raise displacement or both. Raising cylinder pressure increases the heat generated, it doesn't decrease it. So that's contradictory to your goal. Therefore I would suggest focusing on making the motor bigger. Since you're watching this video, I'm assuming you have an 883. The Basic Conversion Package is available in your choice of 1250 or 1275 displacements and either one delivers a massive increase in torque. Read all about it and also see the dyno sheets here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#basic .
What about dyno results?
I'm thinking about buying a 883, but I'm looking for 100hp and 140ftlbs or torque after a conversion
You can find a complete description, including dyno sheets, for each of our performance conversion packages here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#packages
You will never see 140ftlbs of torque on a stock set of engine cases. They just don't support the displacement required. The best you can do is 90cu in and around 110-115ft lbs, depending on cam choice. That requires the cases to be taken apart and bored out.
On stock cases, with stock 2004+ 1200 heads and a 1275cc big bore kit you can get over 90ft-lbs and 100hp with Hammer's 570 cams, which I think is the best cost/benefit right now for a torque oriented setup.
@@depthsounderdave David is exactly right on all counts. Fundamentally, engine torque comes from two things: cylinder pressure and it's mechanical advantage on the crank. Available fuel and cooling capacity place limits on the cylinder pressure, even if you can achieve the cylinder fill you'd need. "Mechanical advantage on the crank" is a fancy way of saying "displacement". So to make that much engine torque, at a workable cylinder pressure, you have to make the motor big. The stock cases limit how big you can make it. At stock motor height, 90ci is the practical limit, which is capable of putting you right into the range David mentioned. You can go bigger by combining bore with stroke, but the motor will be taller and won't fit in the stock chassis without frame mods. And 140ft-lbs would take a very big motor on anything resembling pump gas. Any motor build bigger than1275 requires a full tear-down and lots of expensive parts, too. You can't hardly do a 90ci conversion for less than about $5K. A 1275 by comparison is a lot less expensive and can be installed in an afternoon without even pulling the engine out of the bike.
I have no idea who David is, but he knows what he's talking about.
If you really want 140ft-lbs, you should go get a Big Twin and make the motor as big as possible. I think you'll end up disappointed if you try to make a Sportster run like a Big Twin. That's not what they're made for.
I'm just a home hobbiest, engineer, amateur engine builder, and potential future customer who is doing his research on a torque oriented build. I've spoken with Alex a few times and am trying to diagnose a potentially bad crank before I send in my engine for a XR1200 crank and 90" big bore.
What's the max hp you can achieve
Go here to learn all about our flagship bolt-on package: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#120hp
you say those are the same heads but make no mention of all that material filling in the chamber of the second head. why not just start with 1986 883 heads? that way you would not have to weld in the chamber and risk dropping a seat. am I wrong about this? where did all that material come from? if you started with a 1986b head you would have had to weld it in.
None of the heads shown in this video have any material added to the chambers at all. The first two heads shown have factory stock chambers. The third head shown has an 883 chamber that's been machined, material removed only, no material added.
are the 1998 to 2003 sportster sport/thunder storm with the dual spark plugs really that much better or just some what better? or can i just get a normal 1200 and build of off that. i would like a 1200S with the dual spark plugs heads but for the price definition for a normal 1200 IDK if its woth the extra $1,500 or so. hope that makes since. and keep up the vids.
If you've got an 883 and you want more power, the best, most cost effective path is to modify your 883 heads. The beauty of 883 heads is they have a lot of material in all the right places and that allows us to make a really great head out of them. We've made over 130hp at 1275cc using 883 heads!
So all of our performance conversion packages are based on modifying your 883 heads. See the packages here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#packages
Now, that said, if you really want to do the conversion with 1200 heads instead, avoid the the 98-03 1200S head like the plague. It's not a "Thunderstorm" at all, it's a dual plugged version of the 96-98 Buell "Lightning" head, so named because it was first introduced on the 1996 Buell S1 Lightning. This head has the same small 1.720/1.480 valve sizes as found on the standard 88-03 XL1200 hemi heads, as well as the same crappy ports. Really the only difference between a standard 1200 hemi head and a Lightning head is some additional material in the chambers to reduce the chamber volume and raise compression to about 10:1 when used with flat tops.
The Thunderstorm on the other hand was the second generation XL performance head, introduced on certain Buells in 1998 and then all of them beginning in 1999 and extending through the end of the tube frame models in 2002. This was a MAJOR improvement over the Lightning head, with larger 1.810/1.575 valve sizes, much improved ports, and a chamber that does not shroud the valves so badly - compression was increased via the use of a small dome piston instead, and a squish band was added.
So don't confuse the 98-03 1200S heads with the Thunderstorms. Two completely different animals. The 1200S "Lightning" heads are not in the same league with Thunderstorms and you should not spend money to get a set, not for a performance project anyway.
The third generation of XL performance head is the XB head, as introduced on the 2003 Buell XB9 model, and then propagated to all XL1200's beginning in 2004. This head is significantly better than the Thunderstorms in several ways, and if you're doing a performance project, this is your best bet. The Thunderstorm was a great head in it's day, don't get me wrong, but it's day has passed.
Read more here: www.hammerperf.com/ttxlheads.shtml
damn thanks man. dope info!! I do not have a sportster right now but im planing on buying one ASAP.
130 hp using those heads, that's awesome.
hey man, i got one!!! 2001 xl1200c it leaks oil so need to figure out where that is coming from. and i few other things. have you ever used a fluorescent dye for leak detection? just wondering. ill be calling you soon so see what i might need. thanks!!
Can you run se 497 cams with stock 883 heads with a 1200 conv reverse dome kit
Guys do it, but some have piston to valve contact, it really pushes the clearance. I guarantee you that you'll be much tighter than the recommended .050" intake and .080" exhaust clearance. It's not something we would ever put a customer into, simply because some percentage of them would have a problem.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE ok thanks for the reply 👍
Will 505/515 cams with stock 883 heads cause clearance issues?
The Feuling 505/515 cams have very low TDC lifts (.150/.137) and therefore they create no issues with valve-to-valve or valve-to-piston clearance. However, the reason the cams have such low TDC lifts is because they have so little overlap (26 degrees), which will limit their power gains. Also, the relatively late 48 degree intake close point will move the powerband up the rpm scale at the expense of bottom end and mid range. So know what you're getting before you go with those cams. Also read this: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#faq1
How could I contact you guys for a build?
www.hammerperf.com/contactus.shtml#salesform
Ignorance is not bliss it is expensive.