It’s so great to see a man receiving safety advice graciously without being defensive. There are several woodworkers here on RUclips who are quite sloppy with table saw safety and get very defensive and offended when someone mentions it. You’ve got my respect. It restores my faith in humanity to see a man conducting himself with such class. Subscribed.
I agree, he seems to be willing to take advice in the proper fashion. I was going to comment that he's worried about long term exposure to dust but a lot less concerned about immediate exposure to carbide teeth spinning at 3500 rpm but I thought it might come out sounding a little negatively so I stopped. I've been using table saws, both professionally and as a hobbyist for over 40 years without an accident but my older brother is missing a good chunk of a finger because of a table saw in high school. I've had great respect for the power of the saw ever since and take precautions to work safely. I hope Mr 3D takes the warnings to heart.
@@rogermccaslin5963 Well said. I’ve been using one for 30 years without incident, until one day a few weeks ago I found myself absent-mindedly reaching for something on the table and my hand touched the blade the split second the blade stopped spinning (I had just shut it off). I was shocked that I had this moment of carelessness which could have resulted in serious injury. We need to keep impeccable habits in place for that one day in 30 years when we have an accidental lapse in awareness. It can happen to any of us.
i recentlyy refused to stain wood in a non ventilated area and my coworker couldnt believe how 'big of a deal' i was making. Even after I pointed out on the can that it causes brain damage. His excuse was everyone does it.. Crazy what hazards get overlooked and then people wonder why they have lung cancer or alzheimers*.
@@CL-ty6wp Yes it does kill brain cells, but only the weak ones, so doing it in moderation is actually doing yourself a favor by giving the strong brain cells more room to grow. By the way I am a self taught brain surgeon, sorry I don’t have any surviving patients that I can give you as a reference.
Amazing how many viewers commented on safety. Shop safety awareness has come a long way in the 50+ years I've been wood-funning (who, in their right mind, calls this activity work?) The great news is how 3D handles the comments. Unlike so many of the other YT hobby "experts" he appears to take others' concerns to heart. 👍
To IMPROVE on this desigh, I'd suggest using only 6 filters (as they come in packs of 6) AND also using the 20x30 filters which are a standard size and cheaper. Each 20x30 is 600 square inches so 6 of them is 3600Sqinch vs the 16-20 (320sq inch each and 2560sqinch total). So you get 140% of the filtration area for LESS money). Make the box as described but put in a blank sheet of 1/8" hardboard on one side. It also makes the resultnig frame stiffer. GREAT video and a solid idea - thanks!
Fine idea! I have a new concept for 20x30s for just that reason. As for this configuration, the idea was to make the smallest footprint possible. The video for the 20x30 design should be filmed this week and launched this weekend.
@@W4TRI_Ronny Thanks! I came up with some kits for this concept in this video ruclips.net/video/mBKRMHSJ64E/видео.html I will be launching a kit that works with the Caterpillar/MaxxAir fan in the next few weeks. I also plan to offer the kits as a pack of parts/plans that does not include the wood so you can make it yourself. Would either of those ideas suit your build?
@The3DHandyman I commented already, but since you're here... any thoughts on upside-down configuration, with pull fan blowing down? I know it would stir up floor dust/dirt, but maybe that's good? Filter it and have it gone? As to six filters, triangular prism?
I have been watching every fan and air system on RUclips for the past year and I have to say this is the best. Thank you for all your hard work putting this togeather for us. I plan on building this system as soon as Amazon get all the components to me.
@@Warkive I have seen the aftermath. The Microjig looks like an appealing design for a push stick. The push stick that came with the saw seems to increase kickback over my usual methods. What do you use?
@@The3DHandyman Push block for wider pieces, stick for narrower. Only time I've seen either increase kickback is if you don't keep them centered between the blade and the fence.
Love the design going to try it out. Echoing the concern of others here about table saw safety. Those fingers are much more useful attached and designing great things like this than lopped off.
Great Video! Excellent job quantifying the effectiveness of the various fans and filters out in the market. Loved your design (from a designer) and modified it for a 24" drum fan (move more volume quicker, before the dust settles). I really don't have that much room, but it's on wheels, so I can maneuver it around all the other equipment to get it up close. I operated it for the first time last night and noticed the difference immediately. Thank You!!! I got carried away and started cleaning at least 25% of my area just to see how well it worked. I was purposely pushing dust out in the air to watch how well it works. Awesome, yet so simple!! I chose a Merv 13, 16x25x1. I stacked them the short way for a lower unit and more stability. Then added 2" wheels and the 24" drum fan that is 10" tall. Hence, the whole thing sits over 42" off the floor. I am contemplating making a down draft table to straddle the unit (just roll it right under the table when ready for that operation). Sanding makes the most amount of harmful dust. I'm just not sure if it I will block some of the effectiveness of the unit? Well, I guess I will try it, and could always reconfigure it to use the current Dust Collecting system the removes the larger chips and dust from all the machines, but doesn't get the airborne dust that this unit excels at! Thanks again!!! You have definitely earned my subscription!!
Awesome! The shorter unit is definitely nice to have next to a table. I love the idea of a downdraft table as well. I've been experimenting with new designs and this may make it into a future video. Thanks for subscribing!
@@The3DHandyman I would love to see you prove out the down draft table concept. That would be awesome!! Thanks again for providing this excellent analysis!! Truly appreciate your effort!! Be Safe and stay healthy!!
Thanks for subscribing! I suppose I do all sorts of things. There are a few videos in the works, one of which is about how I make the animations for the channel. Stay tuned!
Thank you for this wonderfully informative build video. The details, animations, workmanship and drawings are great! I'm having my confident wood working neighbour tackle 6 of these for a dusty shop I operate. I'm hoping strategic placement of these 6 will perform nearly as well as a 15k industrial air scrubber. I'll send a note in a month or two on how effective the units are in a truly DUSTY environment.
You’re a pretty stand up dude. I went to your site to purchase your build plans and sat here confused when it popped up for free. Cheers. Great content by the way.
Nice design and well documented.But as one who got a finger tip into the cutting circle of a dado stack, I urge your viewers to use some sort of push device. After dadoing a fair amount of MDFover several years, I'd not given a thought to how dull the carbide had become. Dull tools cause injuries.
You've officially earned me tapping the bell so I get notified of every video you make! Thanks for the hard work, dedication and editing as I know how much time that can take first hand.
Great idea. Thank's for sharing! I was going to sell my old 24" shop fan. Now I think I'll use it for this! I'll join the chorus of people saying push stick, PLEASE> A good friend of mine " a machinist" lost his right had to a table saw accident. Oh, they put it back on, at his request. But, his hand is useless, just a curled up claw. All the bones were shattered. Think of all the things he/you could no longer do. 20 years ago I caught myself getting too comfortable with my table saw! Never get comfortable with power tools. I use a scrap piece of 2x4 or better 2x6 with a glued on 1/2" high heal at the back. I have lots of these, so no excuses. I even leave a few at job sites until I'm 100% done! When I'm not lazy I even screw on a handle like from a handsaw on the back. It gives great leverage to help push the stock down the the table. I saw it once in a magazine article. On a side note, it looks like you are in a garage. If that's the case you could put in a few attic fans in the wall. I used to do this in my old workshop. Cleaned the air almost instantly and cooled the shop, and no filters to clean or replace:) Subbed.
I've made improvements in that particular area especially after cutting these videos together. It's a lot more noticeable the mistakes that are made when the camera gets all zoomed in on it. This video was uploaded a year ago but I actually made this filter 4 years ago. My new videos should better reflect my current safety level. I'd like to make some shot upgrades in the coming months. Some ventilation fans would be a good thing.
You know what makes great handles for flat pushblocks (which are sacrificial)? Old handsaw handles. Garage sale stuff. use (deeply countersunk) brass screws to attach them to the sacrificial block. Perfect angle, and kin old-timey stylish.
Such a cool video format! We're subbed! This video was fantastic. We need an air cleaner for our own shop, which is a 2 car garage, so something like this will work wonderfully. Thanks for sharing!
Awesome! Thanks for subscribing. I've been working on building a big desk for the last two weeks and the air filter has done a great job on all the sanding dust. I hope it works well for you too. If you have any suggestions for improvements, let me know!
Nice presentation. I have used a table saw for about 58 years. 12 weeks ago it got me. I was using my riving knife and a push stick. 14 stitches and now two fingers that have zero feeling on one side each. Please give this some thought.
Thank you, I saw these fans on Amazon and wondered it they would work for dust filtration. I saw this video by chance and glad I did. Appreciate the hard work you put into it, definitely making my own.
Bravo, at least someone realised that blowing air OUT makes everything worse. Also you can add large dust bag inside the filter, from a industrial vacuum dust sucker (like KÄRCHER), to effectively collect and remove large amount of dust easily and preserve the filters longer, since they will catch only finer dust and not be overwhelmed with large dust.
I've been looking into some cheaper air scrubbers/cleaners and then stumbled upon you home made one. I like yours better than what I was looking to buy! Thanks for the idea :)
Those videos are just awesome!! Great quality on those 3d animated plan. Really make it easy to understand details. Thanks and hope there are more coming!
Like the idea. Especially when you see the CFM circulation, 2500 vs. the much more expensive ceiling mount filter systems with less air flow. One suggestion. How about mounting the fan inside the box? Build the mounting frame to mount the fan inside of the box. Add a filter over the intake of the fan. This would eliminate the need to clean the fan because it would be inside the filter box. This would work especially well if you were using the eight filter box. Plenty of air flow and only filtered air reaching the fan.
Funny, after twenty-seven years of working as a 3D modeler/animator (3DS Max) I was laid off this past 12/31/21. Now I`m pursuing my dream of woodworking, and as luck would have it I come across you. Good looking work all around! Thanks for sharing, and my very best to you and yours!
Sorry to hear you got laid off. Is it due to a changing industry or fallout from Covid? ... if you dont mind my asking. Happy to hear you enjoy the format. Thanks for the well wishes, too. Same to you and yours!
@@The3DHandyman Some may be offended by this, but the defense industry suffers anytime the Democrats take control. Defense spending is always cut, with training being one of the first things to suffer. I was a modeler for a subcontractor that supplied training (CBT) to everyone from Bath Iron Works, Boeing, Northrop Grumman and on down the line. That being said twenty-seven years of cube life was enough. I was ready anyway, just trying to rebound from our income being split in half. Sink or swim time. Thanks for asking, best from St. Augustine Florida!
@@jake8074 I know a guy that does just about the same thing for ship builders. I'm sure there is more modeling work out there for you, if you want it, of course. Best of luck my friend!
Oh Wow this is really good idea and your concept. It works. Getting a high powered fan will cause more air Blowing around the saw dust and other dust like a storm in your workshop. But keeping the fan to draw air into the filters is important. It will eventually clogged that fan motor up potential hazard. Heard the filter over the fan part. Also the filters are designed 1 direction air flow. But if I were to build this which your design totally has me wanting to. If my fan were as strong as the one you are using I'd just build an air direction defuser like a foot above the exhaust of the fan. Attaching it to the top Housing. Like a roof. And design the air direction defuser to promote air circulation to bring that new saw dut in. I really like your concept and design and your work came out Awesome
Thank you! The diffuser concept has been suggested. I have not gotten around to 3D printing something for that but I will at some point. I also made an update to this design in a new video where I use a fan with an enclosed motor so that dust can no longer get into any critical components! ruclips.net/video/NmgNQu4zDy0/видео.html
after using christ notap's method of a DIY dust collection system using 2 buckets and a cheap vacuum cleaner, I'm all for projects like this, and while the same parts may not necessarily be available where i live I will use your design as a guide, thanks for this! great video.
I bet it does. I just tested one and it puts out about 500CFM of filtered air, just as much as the average shop air filter... ruclips.net/video/NmgNQu4zDy0/видео.html
Great plans and easy enough design which makes it’s very usual removing excessive dust in the garage. Just built today and couldn’t be happier! Thank you!
@@The3DHandyman Excellent videos. I have subscribed and liked. Do you still use the thin mesh screens on your filters when you draw air into the unit? Thanks.
@@jimmiller5421 Thanks! That's a great question. I do use this and I am experimenting with better ways to implement it. I'll do a video on the concept next month with all my findings. I like to use sheer mesh fabric with as small a opening as possible. The stuff I'm working with right now has .3mm openings and it works fairly well as a pre-filter. It doesn't prevent the filters from getting a layer of dust on them though. So, I am also working on other mods to further increase efficiency. Lots of content on the way!
i guesss, reversing the fan will cause the fan failure quickly because the dust will gather around the motor and bearing and within time it will eliminate it's ability to run. i loved it actually and gonna plan to make one. thanks for sharing us this.
No problem Abdul, I hope it works well for you. As far as the longevity of the fan goes, I wouldn't worry too much about it. I have seen this brand of fan clogged with 1/4" of oil metallic shop dust and it still ran perfectly well. That said, a filter for the housing would be best but I haven't had the time to make one just yet.
This is the right kind of fan to use with the filters. Congrats. Also: air discharge near the fan is quite chaotic. Normally a fan is tested with 10' of discharge duct to allow the air to take a uniform velocity profile. If you check carefully, you'll actually find many instances where the air near the motor is moving TOWARD the discharge of the fan. Makes for quite difficult measurement without a discharge duct. And I agree that merv13 is the minimum. BTW, when you see air flow (cfm) ratings on consumer fans, this is almost always at "free delivery": no pressure loss/drag. (4) Merv13 filters will probably cut the air flow to about 60% of named air flow. But this assembly will clear the air in a shop. To protect lungs, it's still a good idea to trap as much dust as you can at the tool. But some always escapes.
That's exactly why I ended up reading the air at the filter rather than at the fan. Interesting note on how the fans are tested at 10 feet, it makes a lot of sense. I am going to make an update to this design soon with a 4000cfm fan and MERV14 filters. I'm hoping the performance of that will meet or exceed this one. I'll also test the performance of the current unit after 1 year of use with no filter changes.
@@The3DHandyman The test process is idealized, but it allows engineers to know a regulated starting place. AMCA is the industry body. Choice of fan volume and filter merv depend on what you're trying to do.
@@petem6503 The goal is to filter out as much particulate as possible and as quickly as possible. I am filtering concrete dust out of the air lately and that's something I really don't want to be breathing. I know MERV14 is not a HEPA filter but it is closer than MERV13 at least. I am running some numbers for the upgraded unit and I have a question you might be able to answer. If the MERV 14 filters in the unit have a total rated capacity of about 6,500CFM and the new fan only produces 4000CFM, will the filters be able to preform better than what they are rated at? Could they achieve MERV15 filtration by functioning at less than 2/3 of their rated capacity? Just wondering if you have any thoughts on the matter. I understand that any official answer would need real world testing.
@@The3DHandyman I've never looked at filtration efficiency vs media velocity, but it wouldn't surprise me if there was a slight improvement with lower velocity. At the particle size in question, the filter media is more of a physical strainer, so velocity isn't the main performance metric. When designing a system, you have to consider several factors. The first is particle size: the particle in question is "cement" (not concrete), and those range 0.1~10 micron; that's merv 12~15 territory. Next question is how much particle generation and room size, which would then yield how much filtered air you need to keep the space "clean" (a VERY relative term): most of the time you want to calculate minutes of air change (or air change per hour, ACH): divide room volume (cu.ft.) by air flow (cfm). A typical office space usually runs 8~10 minutes air change. If you've got particle concentrations and hazard above this, skip the air cleaner and go for a respirator. Air cleaning eventually works (dependent on particle generation rate), but you breathe a lot of stuff in while waiting for that 10 minutes. Next, realize that the filters and the fan are a SYSTEM. The more air you try to push, the more resistance in the filter media; the more resistance, the less air the fan can produce. This is why serious air cleaning uses fans that can change speed. Realize that the "rating" for air volume in the filter is usually measured at some industry metric such as 300 feet/minute velocity, and you can actually run the air at much higher or much lower amounts, the impact being higher energy consumption if you speed up the fan, or lower air flow for a constant speed fan with smaller filter area. It's a continuous trade off between factors. AND, as the filters collect dust, the pressure loss at a constant velocity goes UP, OR if the fan speed is constant, the air flow goes down as the filters get dirty. That help?
Great info! I will definitely keep these concepts in mind for the new video. Thanks for taking time time to get into the details. Very interesting stuff 👍
When you flipped the fan direction, did you also reverse the filters? I think they are designed to move air in one direction, right? I wonder why most Cosri boxes use push configuration? I wonder if one designed for home could have the fan on the bottom, pull config, and have the entire unit lifted above the ground 2-3 feet and work well.
Hey you could get a round hepa filter that they use on larger cyclone type dust collectors, I'll bet it would work great and they can be cleaned out and used for years. They're about the same size as the setup you had.
Very professional video, I wonder if you left it in pull mode and put something on the exhaust to act as a diffuser? Or, let it run and blow down the whole shop until there isn’t any dust left to be stirred up? It seems that letting the fan get caked up will become a pain?
Great content! As a thought for improvement, would putting double the amount of filters (1 very cheap to take the most beating and after that the better quality one) increase the efficiency of the air purifier? Then also the better quality filter would last longer
I kept the "suck mode" even though it initially produces additional dust. The dust eventually is moved around until sucked into the filters. Mine is based on a box fan with 4 ea 20x30 MERV 13 filters.
I also vote for suck. I was going to try flipping the whole thing over so it poi ts down, but then opted not to, cause I didn't want it to be a hovercraft.
really like this video, very useful, I will be making one of these for my shop eventually. Other than maybe floor space........ Is there a reason to do this vertically instead of a horizontal directional design? Or an upside down "L"? Pulling air from the work space, through the fan and out the filters? I like the idea pulling it in through the fan better and glad you changed it to this direction, it utilizes the filter box as a collection container as well. Just make a cone shaped cover for the engine housing with directional vents so it still breaths but deflects the dust passing.
The vertical design is the direction I went because it could be parked next to whatever was producing dust and maintain a small footprint. I do like the idea of a ceiling mounted horizontal filter that could create more defined circulation within in the space. Like, one side of the room is IN and the other is OUT so it's always filtering in one direction. You have some good thoughts and I will redesign this filter at some point with some of these things in mind 👍
Awesome work! An idea would be to make a large curved wooden air duct outlet to direct air coming out the fan sideways. If you were to aim the airflow opposite way from the saw it would help pull more dusty air towards the filter and you could go back to pull configuration and keep the fan clean. With that much CFM I'd be aiming to make a very large outlet probably twice the size at least of the fan surface area so it would have less air velocity as it leaves the outlet and less mess around the shop. It would be important to have a thin plywood or something you can curve so the air can move smooth and quiet keeping the most CFM possible.
I do like that idea! My favorite approach so far would be to integrate it into the ceiling and duct the air to the opposite side of the space to create one-directional air circulation through the shop. One day...
@@The3DHandyman That's a great idea. The blade fan you have could probably handle some duct work but too much and you will lose a lot of CFM. I thought of doing something like that with a large B-AIR VP50 which is 2820 CFM blower fan and that will keep the static pressure higher with some duct work. The ultimate would be an old furnace blower, They will push air in a shop duct system really well. No matter what, these DIY projects are awesome to see the outcome. My air filter is currently a small wood box with a 25x20x5 mpr 1550 filter. I built it into a wooden box and sealed the box fan in with weather stripping and tape the filter on like you do. The box fan is 2500 CFM but greatly reduced with only 1 filter. My filter is equivalent to 5 of the 20x20x1 so still not too bad.
@@practicalguy973 That sounds like a solid setup. It's always cool to see what people come up with for this common problem. I looked at blower motors for this build but the ones that pushed a lot of CFM were out of my price range.
@@The3DHandyman I hear you. I have the impressive B-AIR VP-20 blower that I bought 3 years ago to push air along my basement floor that can get damp. Its the smallest one they offer and got it on sale for $30 at Home Depot so that's as much as I was willing to spend on any fan and why I did the cheaper box fan for my filter and not the VP-50! Large blowers are really expensive. If ever replacing a furnace in your home it would be smart to keep the blower fan. Free and powerful.
@@practicalguy973 Craigslist might be a good place to look for that sort of thing too. Maybe someone else is trying to unload a big blower after a home renovation or AC replacement. One thing to consider when buying those is how they are wired. Some might be 3 phase or too high amperage for an average home outlet.
I use these in a few key locations. What baffles me is people that flow the fan out of the box. If the fan stops all the crap falls from the outside of the box. I flow the fan into the box. I use 4 merv filters and a box fan. Lasts about a year. Then it's an easily disposable box of dirt and dust.
I also prefer blowing air into the box. That said, I will do a pre-filter video some time soon where blowing air out of the box makes more sense (but does require vacuuming the sides).
If you rebuild it in the future you could put the fan at the bottom of the configuration to have the air going straight at the floor rather than up at the ceiling. It is less likely to push the dust further than it should.
Thank you. I hadn't considered smoke filtration as a possible use case. Great point! For filtering out smoke particles people should consider using MERV 11 or higher air filters. The higher the rating, the better. Thanks for the comment.
Awesome! The Caterpillar fan has an enclosed motor which might suit you even better than the Maxx Air fan used in this video. My latest video talks more about it ruclips.net/video/NmgNQu4zDy0/видео.html
Hi Al! Unfortunately I'm not making the kit for this design at the moment. It requires a lot of sanding that I don't have time for. You can make this one yourself with the free plans or take a look at the new Model-B. The new design offers a lower price with lower filter replacement costs as well as faster shipping times with the same level of performance. The way the kit fit's together is a bit different, though. So, let me know if you have any questions about anything. Here is the link www.etsy.com/listing/1373712349 How to put the new kit together (this is a temp video while I finish up the official video) ruclips.net/video/MLF8qv1tGSQ/видео.html
In my home I've replaced the registers for the AC with ones that will accept a filter, and I use the really cheap (Still under $1 US if bought in a pack of 6) ones in that. It traps the vast majority of dust and makes the $10 one in the furnace last three or four months instead of just one. The cheap one needs to be changed once a month, so I'm already saving about $45 a year.
@@The3DHandyman I just realized that my comment sounded off-topic, I meant to say it would help make the filters in the shop air cleaner last longer. I commented before I watched the video and saw that you put a fine screen over them.
@@milesparris4045 All good. That s a good method for helping keep the high MERV filters clean for a much longer time. I am plaining on testing a few double filter methods in a future video and the concept you mentioned will be one of them!
Stupid question and maybe I should just build it to find out. But what if you mounted the fan on the bottom, let the air push out towards the floor. You’d kick up the dust, yes, but theoretically it should get sucked back into the filters. Keeps the balance point low, doesn’t push everything to the ceiling.
A few people have mentioned this. Not sure if anyone has built on yet. It seems like a sound concept. If you want, you could build one and then post about how it works
would be interested to see how well it works if you put the fan in the middle and had a cube of filters on each end. Would solve the motor dust problem, the fan would be closer to the ground to suck up more dust, and also diffuse the fan exhaust
So far I'm really happy with the performance of this unit. I am moving into a new shop in a month or two and will be making some air filtration upgrades to this deign as well as adding a new system when I do. Stay tuned!
Love the video and the design. But I don't see how this could be built for $200. The cheaper fan costs $120. The design requires 8 filters. A 4 pack of the 3M Merv 13 filters is $89. So just the fan and the filters costs $300. Then the wood, casters and foam tape would be a little more. Am I missing something?
Glad you enjoy the design! Your math is accurate, what it doesn't account for is inflation. Since the launch of this video at the beginning of 2020 much has changed. I have a few videos that will cover mods to this unit that will be out next month. In those I will cover prefilters and multi stage filtration. These things can increase the initial cost but lower the long term operating costs of the design as well as boost performance. I also have more designs on the way for small space filtration.
lol, you would get all the views! There are many and they all need to say the same thing. I appreciate their comments tho, they are right in the end. And thanks, I appreciate your watching and especially commenting on the video!
@@The3DHandyman they are, for sure. Doesn't make them less annoying 🤣🤣 I equate it to the old people that try to give you parenting advice in grocery stores, thinking they're the first and only ones to be smart enough to tell you that they're probably cranky because they're tired. Yeah, they're right. But that's also a stupid thing to say to someone who's struggling with cranky kids. Anyway... I also think being kind and humane is a virtue, you got that down. I couldn't help myself from trolling them, just like I can't help myself from trolling the old people in grocery stores...
It seems ok at first glance. I am putting together an update for this video where I will offer plans for different configurations that people have asked for. The same sort of construction as the current unit could be used with your fan, just different dimensions. Many 24"x24"x2" filters can filter about 2000CFM and maintain their MERV rating. A 1" thick filter of the same size might be able to filter closer to 1500CFM. If there are 4 of these filters it theoretically should be able to handle about 6000CFM max. Based on the outside dimensions of the fan (4) 20"x30"x1" filters may be more suitable for construction. 4 of those provide a little more surface area and could theoretically handle 6500CFM. The higher the CFM on the filters, the better the fan performance will be. I wouldn't want to impede the fan's operation by using filters that can't handle at least 5000CFM. There are other factors at play but the math seems to check out on the design. It will be a large unit, though. A ceiling mount might be best if you have the headroom.
@TroyBoy Hairytoe Glad to hear it! The video on how I made the redwood table in the profile pic is currently uploading. Check back later today to see that one.
How much "recirculation" do you thing there is? When we are talking about how long it would take to filter a given space by diving the volume by the CFM, this assumes no recirculation... Would there be a way to create a gap between the air intake and output? It would be neat to check with a meter to see the concentration of particles in the air, and measure how adding that distance affects how quickly the dust concentration goes down.
This is awesome. Would those filter out the smell of anything growing using those filters? 😂 I got excited watching the video, I have to make me one of these. Fantastic video and awesome plans Mr 3D. Hey if the thicker filters were used would this slow the flow? Also, if I added another section of filters would this be as advantageous as to theoretically reduce the filter airflow resistance by a half, so the blower would have a throughput of 2750 CFPM? Thanks.
Good questions! - A MERV 13 filter with an activated carbon layer should be able to filter smells but to what degree, I'm not sure. These filters are also quite expensive. - MERV 13 filters are often thicker (4") than the ones used in this video. As a result of their thickness they are able to filter more air than the thin filters so less would be sufficient. Rather than 8, 4 filters would be fine. - As of last time I checked the newest model of the fan that was used in this video has a much reduced power of 1500 CFM, so keep that in mind when calculating how quickly the air in your space is circulated. Hope this helps!
If you has left the original configuration you would have found after the initial dust disruption, the dust would have gone way down. Pulling air through the filters is much more eficent. And you want the strong exit air to circulate to get the whole workspace filtered. Good luck. Also G4 level paint booth filter as prefilter a must
@@The3DHandyman a coarse prefilter (paint booth media) stops the large particles blocking main panel. Means they keep working many times as long. The reason you don't often see prefilter, is that they want to sell you new filters. Good luck
Great video, build and demonstration. Thank you for sharing your idea and your real world results. I like your style! I'm wondering if you could pick up a few more CFM's with one additional filter built in the floor of the unit. Based on your math, it should push the airflow over 2,700 CFM's. Did you lose some CFM flow with the easy clean mesh screen upgrade? Also, some dryer ducting or something similar might increase effectiveness as well. Then you could place one end of the dryer ducting closer to source of the wood dust being created.
I would have to think that the more filters there are the higher the CFM would go. If there was a 3rd set under the unit, the fan may be able to run at it's theoretical maximum or close to it. The ducted idea would for sure be even more effective but my one concern would be a rapid buildup of dust inside the motor housing. If it had some sort of dust filtering cap on it, it would make me less nervous. Anything full of fine dust is a potential fire hazard and the fan motor does get hot. That said, I have seen these fans in other shop/kitchen environments that were absolutely covered in grease and dust without apparent issues. Regardless, just to be on the safe side I clean it out every time I use it if the fan is in the push configuration.
I made this, sort of. I thought this design was top-heavy so I moved the fan to the side bottom losing one filter. I used 20x25x1, the same as my furnace. I also installed a speed control on the fan.
This is perfect for my shop. I clicked the link you provided for the plans, but it leads to a “404 not found” dead link. Could you check on that and let me know if there is a different link? Thanks!
In one of my next videos I will talk more about clogged filter performance. More testing is needed but so far I can say that with the Nordic Pure MERV 14 filters on this unit take 2 times longer to clean the air of smoke(ultra small particles) after 6 months of heavy shop use without any cleaning at all (wood dust, sanding dust, lots of cement dust, spray paint, oily vapors). I am working on making some pre-filters for these and the "push" config that you mentioned is a bit more challenging than the "pull" option... but I will come up with something to test.
I was so impressed with this presentation, and the provided cut/materials list, that I've acquired the fan, the wood, the filters and casters to build this unit based on your design! Love the fact that it is portable and relatively compact. My only concern was the scotch tape to hold the filters in. After such a nice job it seemed a shame to cheapen it up with tape. Did you ever modify the tape to a more substantial scenario? I''m looking into adding some mod to hold the filters in place without tape yet allow easy access to change the filetrs. Also looking to add some type of filter to the top of the fan to increase the life of the motor and keep the inside of the fan clean. Overall, a great design and most important...you took the time to put together an excellent video and provide all the info to build this unit. Thank you so much!!!
Thanks Harte! One option might be to put swivel/rotating type locks on the outside of the unit that pin the filters in place. I have no idea what those are called but a trip to the hardware store might find you something that fits that description. This sort of attachment would also require some foam seal tape on the inside surfaces. I have not tried any of this, but in theory it should work. Good luck with any mods that you attempt. Let me know if anything in particular works for you!
@@The3DHandyman 3D...I finished the project and made some mods. To eliminate the tape, I cut eight- baltic ply wood strips 1-1/4"W x 41"H and attached them using threaded hanger bolts to the vertical sides of the filter openings. I secured these strips with toggle bolts for easy removal. Once attached, the filters are securely held in place with minimal air leakage (although I have no instruments to really test this). To change the filter, all you do is remove one ply strip side and loosen the other and the filter pops right out. You had mentioned the need for some form of filtration for the fan motor. I addressed this by constructing a frame to hold another filter which sits on top. I'm going to use some turnbuckles which I'll attach to the side of this frame and to the two knobs that came with the fan. Because the fan motor will now be covered by a filter, I made an external on-off switch to easily turn on the motor without having to remove the filter. I also drilled a hole and ran the fan motor power cord through the side fan housing, into the external switch and on to the plug to insure a tight seal between the fan motor and its filter. I'd send images, but not sure how I can do that! Overall your concept is really sound and has helped cleanse the air in my small garage shop! Thanks again for sharing your ideas with the woodworking community!
...Correction!!!...I didn't use "toggle bolts"...I used wing nuts to the hanger bolts to secure the wooden strips that hold the filters in place. Sorry!!!
I modified and secured the filters with strips of thin plywood which overlapped the filters. This was secured with wing nuts which allowed easy removal. It secured the entire side of the filters negating the need for foam stripping. I then made a frame for the top of the fan which holds a thin filter to keep dust out of the motor. It is secured to the fan using turnbuckles. This reduces some of the air flow but is better for the life of the motor. If I really need flow, I remove this filter and cover the motor vents with a cut-out cap made from a Costco mixed nuts jar. I cut a hole in that and used a piece of face mask material as a filter
In this video you show a short clip of planning with a Delta lunchbox planner and a dust collection shroud. Where did you build/buy that? I have the same planner and the OEM dust shroud is terrible at best. If this is a model you built do you have any drawings.
Nice catch! I couldn't agree more, the factory dust port clogs in seconds. Total afterthought. My solution was made at a time before this channel so I don't have any plans or a video of the build. But I can describe it for you in as much detail as I can remember... This video has a few different angles of the design at 3:40 and 5:40 ruclips.net/video/IIvMcjH3ICg/видео.html The design is as thick as the factory design. Plastic screws hold a board on to the rear of the planer. The board has 2 hinges on it so that the DIY dust port can be tilted up to remove any clogs if they occur. The base of the unit is MDF. The sides are 3/4" plywood that have slots cut into it with the table saw so that it can bend around the rear side. Then there is a strip of veneer that goes over that because the plywood cracked a little while bending it. After this glue up dried I got a thick stretchy piece of fabric to drape over it in a way that smoothly transitions the square output on the planer to a rounded scoop at the back. No edges for chips to get hung up on. Then I coated the cloth with epoxy resin to make it hard and smooth. A small container of epoxy should be plenty. The top is plexiglass so I can see if there is any build up. The port for the dust collector is actually a 4" plumbing fitting. If I remember correctly, I went with that because it had a sharp 45 degree bend that matched the shape of the resin cloth... and it had a nice flange. The design works effortlessly. Duct/chip build up only happens if I have a clog in the dust collector or a kink in the tubing. I hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@The3DHandyman That works....The additional video footage helps with your description. I think the planner is a decent one for the price point but the DC is horrible. I hope to build something similar in the future. I have not seen anyone else change this as you have. Thanks for the response and keep doing what you do. I am in a small basement shop and will be building your air cleaner soon. I am trying to decide on fan pointing down or up. I see many others have asked this question. It is hard to visualize fan down into filters as "drawing" the same amount of air as when pointing up but if the volume of air in a space is constant I wonder if the direction of the fan makes a difference? Blowing out the top would kick up a large amount of loose dust that is in the shop but would eventually pass through the filters. Once the room is "clean" the daily operation should not kick up more dust.
@@thaynegouse576 Yeah, the push vs pull config really just comes down to preference. While I work with cement I don't want the dust to go anywhere in the shop at all so the push config works nicely for that. The pull config is just fine for general use.
@@thaynegouse576 Let me know how you like the filter once you get it going! I like the "down" fan position because it sucks cement dust off my work surface really well. If I point the fan "up" then some of the airborne dust gets thrown into the outgoing stream of air and I really don't like cement dust getting anywhere. I also like the down position for cleaning parts and filtering vacuum pump exhaust. "Up" wouldn't work so well for those particular activities....but for general airborne dust filtration, the "Up" method will work just very well for keeping the air safe to breath. The shop I am working with for the air filters kits is pretty much a constant cloud of dust. The "up" position would be the right thing for that space.
I kinda did something like this for the inside of my house, except made out of a 1 foot square cardboard tube that's 7 feet high. Originally made it to move the hot summer air from my ceiling downstairs,to mix with the cooler air. Then it passed by a A/C unit through my kitchen upon circulation.8000btu ac is cooling 1400 sqf doing this. But on a whim I put a filter on it, now it became an entire crude house filtration system for 1400 sqf. lol.
That's a great idea! At my place the temperature variation between the upstairs and downstairs is 15-20 degrees at times. Adding a filter to the unit is even better. Nice work
@@The3DHandyman thanks! Your project gave me an idea to make a more sturdy project out of wood or something. Maybe translucent panels for a lighted colume,with more smaller filters at the top. So it looks more like a piece of furniture. Just to be clear, this things sits on a old unused cold air return in my living room. Again thanks for a new idea 💡
I am currently shopping for dust collection systems for my power tools. After all is said and done it seems to get down to cfm...and collection. Most units in my range are 600 to 900 cfm. When I look at 2500...all I can think of is why dont I port your fan down to 4 inches...add a cyclone separator and small barrel....and blow the rest out the wall where nobody sees it? Obviously the 2500cfm will take a drastic dive... but I bet no where near 800. Thoughts? It would be great to build a super powerful system for cheap. Thanks
This sort of fan moves air quite well but it may not produce enough suction for a dust collection system. An impeller type fan blade produces better results in this scenario. That said it may work, just not quite as well as you might want it to. Also, the new version of this fan is also only rated at 1300cfm. Not sure why they cut the power so drastically.
Good question! The 3000cfm fan is no longer available from Maxx Air. The New version of the fan is only rated at 1600cfm. It may very well be identical to the old fan but I have not tested it. I retested the fan in this video with a new methodology in a new video. I took a reading from a wind tunnel to measure the laminar flow coming out of the fan itself instead of measuring at the filters which seems to have given erroneous results (possibly because the filter surface can not be considered "open area"?). With the new method the "3000cfm" version used in this video appears to output 1570cfm without filters and 1400cfm with filters. So, I cant say for sure but if the factory says 1600 it may actually put out 1600cfm. If that's the case, it's still the most powerful version of this design. I talk more about it in both of the videos below Here is the link to the updated version of this video ruclips.net/video/NmgNQu4zDy0/видео.html Here is a link to my diy air filter comparison video ruclips.net/video/KobogQMf_Xc/видео.html I'll be testing a ton of different filter brands soon to see how they preform with airflow and small particle collection. I'd like to see the Maxx air fan hit 1500cfm. It's not 2500, but still pretty good
@@The3DHandyman thank you, i also posted another question about adding a pre filter to the fans intake side? Will that reduce efficiency? I have a 4700 cubic foot space. Im looking to build a hanging unit and also a small mobile unit. I also want to use a combo of washable filters and cloth.
@@SonsOfThunder229 I have purchased supplied for a prefilter and just finished the demo unit that it was designed for. I hope to have that and 3 filter kits available within the next few weeks. I will test the efficiency with 2 different levels of screens that can be vacuumed. One with larger holes and one with smaller holes. It will reduce efficiency but I cant say by how much...yet.
@@SonsOfThunder229 Also, I have some 3D printed brackets that will hold the fan on tight for ceiling/wall mounts. For really large spaces a build like this one might work nicely for you. Creating a feedback loop in the room will really boost filtration efficiency. I will make a whole video about the concept some time soon.
@@The3DHandyman so i made a filter using a 1/4hp furnace blower. I have two filters on the intake side. It seems to work ok, i havent tested anything with a meter. But im kind of thinking it can work better or i missed something. Can you critique this for me? Do you have an email?
The outside is about 17.5" for both of these fans: Maxx Air (Orange): amzn.to/3fXokQC Caterpillar with Enclosed Motor (Black): amzn.to/3TD9NM3 The Maxx air that I used for this version seems to be marketed as 1600cfm now. After a wind tunnel test even the old version only preforms at about 1600cfm. They may have just updated the info or they made the fan lower quality. I'm not sure. Personally I like the Caterpillar fan because it has an enclosed motor and preforms essentially the same as the Maxx Air. Sorry for the late reply, I haven't gotten to comments in a while.
With the reversal of the air flow, you didn't mention if you reversed the orientation of the filters, as they almost always have a specified direction of air flow, which is indicated on the filter itself.
Possibly over time dust could eat away at the belt but it may not dramatically reduce the life of the part. I could see it making the belt more likely to slip tho.
Well done video. I have been researching air filtration for some time. Also what table saw are you using during build process? Thanks again for a great video. You can disregard the question I have now watched more of your videos and I have my answer. Thanks for great content.
Hi. What's the brand filters? Is posibility buy this in Amazon? What's the material of the filters? Thanks... Sorry for my english... I need this filter for ten vertical panel Saw
I bought a pack of these on a website that only sells air filters. There are quite a few to choose from. Here are 2 options: www.filterbuy.com/ www.airfilters.com/
Great design! One suggestion: what if you made it 24”square, mount the fan in the center and added a 20”x20” filter on the top? Just a thought. Little bigger footprint, but lower center of gravity and a push/pull effect for double filtration.
Thanks! My concern with the filters on each side would be a reduction in overall performance due to the double filtration. I like the idea of a 20" box with the fan pointing down to stir up dust or upwards with a ducted of diffused design (as has been suggested in other comments). In both cases the air would only be filtered one time with the fan pulling air through the filters first. Otherwise with the current design as -is the fan motor can just get dusted off once per use and that should be enough. I have used it for 4 years with no issues. I will highlight a wall-mounted design that I hope will eliminate this issue all together in a new video that will be out next week.
I picked that up at a local fabric store (Hancock/Joann Fabrics). It was helpful to brows for a mesh that had openings not to large or too small. The material is basically a synthetic mesh screen/fabric. It's a pretty thin material. You can probably find something similar online.
Great work. This has definitely made me want to build one. Efficiency may be better with the direction of flow, but I'd be concerned about the life expectancy of the fan motor. There's a reason all HVAC systems have filtration before the fan. Also, any issues with the filters maintaining a good seal against the frame with the positive pressure? It'd be great to get your review after using this for av year or two to see if you have any updates or suggestions. Thanks for the great video and inspiration!
Very cool design. Got me thinking about something similar in a ceiling-mounted form. (After all, there's always limited floor space in my shop.) Would basically turn your design on its side & add a single filter to the far end (opposite the fan). Might have to remove 2 filters from what is now the top in order to mount/suspend it, so it would use 7 total instead of 8. Think it would be effective like that?
It seems like a fine idea. If you want to know for sure you can brows through the comments you will find a few ideas similar to yours. Then, reply to those comments to see if those individuals have had success with their mods
Wondering if it could work in the pull configuration, but aimed down? Fan on bottom... it will definitely stir up floor dust, but maybe that's OK, because it filters it???
Pull configuration could be done if you put an air diverter on top of it so it wasn't hitting the cieling. However, if you didn't and it stirred up dust it may then remove them.
Sweet design. Questions: 1) Any idea how much better the air flow would be with 2 or even 4" thick filters, as I've read they allow better flow? 2) For the pull configuration, can you attach a flexible HVAC tube and point the air flow out a window/door? Or would that mess with the filtration capability?
If the air filter is close to it's maximum efficiency already there may little to gain by using 2 or 4 inch filters. If you only used 4 total filters rather than 8, the thicker filters would give you a boost in performance. The filter could blow air out of the room via a tube if you are trying to vent VOC's but keep in mind that there will need to be some sort of air inlet into the room to keep the fan working properly. The best configuration I could imagine for dust filtration would have the filters on one side of the room and then a duct would bring the outgoing air to the opposite side of the room. This would create a positive feedback loop in which the air would always be pulled toward the filters.
It’s so great to see a man receiving safety advice graciously without being defensive. There are several woodworkers here on RUclips who are quite sloppy with table saw safety and get very defensive and offended when someone mentions it.
You’ve got my respect. It restores my faith in humanity to see a man conducting himself with such class. Subscribed.
I agree, he seems to be willing to take advice in the proper fashion. I was going to comment that he's worried about long term exposure to dust but a lot less concerned about immediate exposure to carbide teeth spinning at 3500 rpm but I thought it might come out sounding a little negatively so I stopped. I've been using table saws, both professionally and as a hobbyist for over 40 years without an accident but my older brother is missing a good chunk of a finger because of a table saw in high school. I've had great respect for the power of the saw ever since and take precautions to work safely. I hope Mr 3D takes the warnings to heart.
@@rogermccaslin5963 Well said. I’ve been using one for 30 years without incident, until one day a few weeks ago I found myself absent-mindedly reaching for something on the table and my hand touched the blade the split second the blade stopped spinning (I had just shut it off). I was shocked that I had this moment of carelessness which could have resulted in serious injury. We need to keep impeccable habits in place for that one day in 30 years when we have an accidental lapse in awareness. It can happen to any of us.
i recentlyy refused to stain wood in a non ventilated area and my coworker couldnt believe how 'big of a deal' i was making. Even after I pointed out on the can that it causes brain damage. His excuse was everyone does it.. Crazy what hazards get overlooked and then people wonder why they have lung cancer or alzheimers*.
@@CL-ty6wp
Yes it does kill brain cells, but only the weak ones, so doing it in moderation is actually doing yourself a favor by giving the strong brain cells more room to grow.
By the way I am a self taught brain surgeon, sorry I don’t have any surviving patients that I can give you as a reference.
Shhhhh. Let them lose their fingers, so they can make youtube videos about it.
The animations are incredible. The design and your narrative are equally incredible. Excellent work all around. Thank you.
Amazing how many viewers commented on safety. Shop safety awareness has come a long way in the 50+ years I've been wood-funning (who, in their right mind, calls this activity work?) The great news is how 3D handles the comments. Unlike so many of the other YT hobby "experts" he appears to take others' concerns to heart. 👍
Its the easiest thing to comment on.
And while I agree, and am pro safety, our society is a little fixated on “safety”. Love the humble attitude though. That’s the real valuable trait.
If there were no fingers close to the saw, we wouldn't be commenting on safety.
To IMPROVE on this desigh, I'd suggest using only 6 filters (as they come in packs of 6) AND also using the 20x30 filters which are a standard size and cheaper. Each 20x30 is 600 square inches so 6 of them is 3600Sqinch vs the 16-20 (320sq inch each and 2560sqinch total). So you get 140% of the filtration area for LESS money). Make the box as described but put in a blank sheet of 1/8" hardboard on one side. It also makes the resultnig frame stiffer. GREAT video and a solid idea - thanks!
Fine idea! I have a new concept for 20x30s for just that reason. As for this configuration, the idea was to make the smallest footprint possible. The video for the 20x30 design should be filmed this week and launched this weekend.
@@The3DHandyman Still going to do this one? I'll wait. Great stuff! I just got my fan from Amazon!
@@W4TRI_Ronny Thanks! I came up with some kits for this concept in this video ruclips.net/video/mBKRMHSJ64E/видео.html
I will be launching a kit that works with the Caterpillar/MaxxAir fan in the next few weeks. I also plan to offer the kits as a pack of parts/plans that does not include the wood so you can make it yourself.
Would either of those ideas suit your build?
@The3DHandyman I commented already, but since you're here... any thoughts on upside-down configuration, with pull fan blowing down? I know it would stir up floor dust/dirt, but maybe that's good? Filter it and have it gone?
As to six filters, triangular prism?
how do you fit 6 filters into a rectangular cube?
This is amazing - It's a miracle you still have all fingers.
I have been watching every fan and air system on RUclips for the past year and I have to say this is the best. Thank you for all your hard work putting this togeather for us. I plan on building this system as soon as Amazon get all the components to me.
Awesome and thank you! I'm sure it will work as well for you as it has for me.
Please please please use a push stick or push block during your table saw cuts! Keep them fingers!!👍
I have been trying to be better at that lately. Thanks for the concern!
@@The3DHandyman People have said similar things just shortly before losing fingers.
@@Warkive I have seen the aftermath.
The Microjig looks like an appealing design for a push stick. The push stick that came with the saw seems to increase kickback over my usual methods. What do you use?
@@The3DHandyman Push block for wider pieces, stick for narrower. Only time I've seen either increase kickback is if you don't keep them centered between the blade and the fence.
@@Warkive Good advice. I'm a working on editing a new video and it's quite clear that I need to make some changes in this department.
Love the design going to try it out.
Echoing the concern of others here about table saw safety. Those fingers are much more useful attached and designing great things like this than lopped off.
Great Video! Excellent job quantifying the effectiveness of the various fans and filters out in the market. Loved your design (from a designer) and modified it for a 24" drum fan (move more volume quicker, before the dust settles). I really don't have that much room, but it's on wheels, so I can maneuver it around all the other equipment to get it up close. I operated it for the first time last night and noticed the difference immediately. Thank You!!! I got carried away and started cleaning at least 25% of my area just to see how well it worked. I was purposely pushing dust out in the air to watch how well it works. Awesome, yet so simple!!
I chose a Merv 13, 16x25x1. I stacked them the short way for a lower unit and more stability. Then added 2" wheels and the 24" drum fan that is 10" tall. Hence, the whole thing sits over 42" off the floor. I am contemplating making a down draft table to straddle the unit (just roll it right under the table when ready for that operation). Sanding makes the most amount of harmful dust. I'm just not sure if it I will block some of the effectiveness of the unit? Well, I guess I will try it, and could always reconfigure it to use the current Dust Collecting system the removes the larger chips and dust from all the machines, but doesn't get the airborne dust that this unit excels at! Thanks again!!! You have definitely earned my subscription!!
Awesome! The shorter unit is definitely nice to have next to a table. I love the idea of a downdraft table as well. I've been experimenting with new designs and this may make it into a future video. Thanks for subscribing!
@@The3DHandyman I would love to see you prove out the down draft table concept. That would be awesome!! Thanks again for providing this excellent analysis!! Truly appreciate your effort!! Be Safe and stay healthy!!
Love the scientific approach and actual CFM measurements!
I will need to do more videos like this in the future. Thanks for the comment!
30 years ago, a NC factory, used this type of box, to remove smoke from the break-room. worked awesome.
Interesting use case!
I have no idea who you are or what you do on this channel, but you got an immediate sub once I saw the 3D animations.
Amazing work dude
Thanks for subscribing! I suppose I do all sorts of things. There are a few videos in the works, one of which is about how I make the animations for the channel. Stay tuned!
Thank you for all the work you have done here and being so open and kind with your work!
Thank you for this wonderfully informative build video. The details, animations, workmanship and drawings are great! I'm having my confident wood working neighbour tackle 6 of these for a dusty shop I operate. I'm hoping strategic placement of these 6 will perform nearly as well as a 15k industrial air scrubber. I'll send a note in a month or two on how effective the units are in a truly DUSTY environment.
That's awesome! I would love to hear how they are working in this type of environment.
You’re a pretty stand up dude. I went to your site to purchase your build plans and sat here confused when it popped up for free. Cheers. Great content by the way.
Thank you for that. If you want you can always upgrade with some 3D printed attachments if you like! www.etsy.com/shop/The3DHandyman
@@The3DHandyman Done!
Nice design and well documented.But as one who got a finger tip into the cutting circle of a dado stack, I urge your viewers to use some sort of push device. After dadoing a fair amount of MDFover several years, I'd not given a thought to how dull the carbide had become. Dull tools cause injuries.
Thanks for the tip
You've officially earned me tapping the bell so I get notified of every video you make! Thanks for the hard work, dedication and editing as I know how much time that can take first hand.
@Shiny Tech Things Thanks, Dude! Best of luck with your channel as well.
@@The3DHandyman What software do you use to render your animations?
You have low standards.
Great idea. Thank's for sharing! I was going to sell my old 24" shop fan. Now I think I'll use it for this! I'll join the chorus of people saying push stick, PLEASE> A good friend of mine " a machinist" lost his right had to a table saw accident. Oh, they put it back on, at his request. But, his hand is useless, just a curled up claw. All the bones were shattered. Think of all the things he/you could no longer do. 20 years ago I caught myself getting too comfortable with my table saw! Never get comfortable with power tools. I use a scrap piece of 2x4 or better 2x6 with a glued on 1/2" high heal at the back. I have lots of these, so no excuses. I even leave a few at job sites until I'm 100% done! When I'm not lazy I even screw on a handle like from a handsaw on the back. It gives great leverage to help push the stock down the the table. I saw it once in a magazine article. On a side note, it looks like you are in a garage. If that's the case you could put in a few attic fans in the wall. I used to do this in my old workshop. Cleaned the air almost instantly and cooled the shop, and no filters to clean or replace:) Subbed.
I've made improvements in that particular area especially after cutting these videos together. It's a lot more noticeable the mistakes that are made when the camera gets all zoomed in on it. This video was uploaded a year ago but I actually made this filter 4 years ago. My new videos should better reflect my current safety level.
I'd like to make some shot upgrades in the coming months. Some ventilation fans would be a good thing.
You know what makes great handles for flat pushblocks (which are sacrificial)? Old handsaw handles. Garage sale stuff. use (deeply countersunk) brass screws to attach them to the sacrificial block. Perfect angle, and kin old-timey stylish.
Such a cool video format! We're subbed! This video was fantastic. We need an air cleaner for our own shop, which is a 2 car garage, so something like this will work wonderfully. Thanks for sharing!
Awesome! Thanks for subscribing. I've been working on building a big desk for the last two weeks and the air filter has done a great job on all the sanding dust. I hope it works well for you too. If you have any suggestions for improvements, let me know!
Nice presentation. I have used a table saw for about 58 years. 12 weeks ago it got me. I was using my riving knife and a push stick. 14 stitches and now two fingers that have zero feeling on one side each. Please give this some thought.
Thanks Robert. I will do just that
how'd you get cut if you were using a push stick?
Excellent production quality and information, keep up the good work!
This is such a great presentation with nice visuals to guide us in the process. Nice job!
Thank you, I saw these fans on Amazon and wondered it they would work for dust filtration. I saw this video by chance and glad I did. Appreciate the hard work you put into it, definitely making my own.
Awesome. Thanks Jeremy
Bravo, at least someone realised that blowing air OUT makes everything worse. Also you can add large dust bag inside the filter, from a industrial vacuum dust sucker (like KÄRCHER), to effectively collect and remove large amount of dust easily and preserve the filters longer, since they will catch only finer dust and not be overwhelmed with large dust.
Great tips on reversing the direction and mentioning the screen over the fan to help reduce dust on the fan
Your 3D animation is so smooth and beautiful!
I've been looking into some cheaper air scrubbers/cleaners and then stumbled upon you home made one. I like yours better than what I was looking to buy! Thanks for the idea :)
Those videos are just awesome!! Great quality on those 3d animated plan. Really make it easy to understand details. Thanks and hope there are more coming!
Thank you kindly. There are many more just like this one on the way!
Like the idea. Especially when you see the CFM circulation, 2500 vs. the much more expensive ceiling mount filter systems with less air flow.
One suggestion. How about mounting the fan inside the box? Build the mounting frame to mount the fan inside of the box. Add a filter over the intake of the fan. This would eliminate the need to clean the fan because it would be inside the filter box. This would work especially well if you were using the eight filter box. Plenty of air flow and only filtered air reaching the fan.
Sounds like a fine approach. It would use a bit more wood and have a larger footprint but otherwise the logic is sound.
I would like to build this, would the mount subdivide the 8 filters in half? Half used for intake , half used for outlet to disperse the air?
Funny, after twenty-seven years of working as a 3D modeler/animator (3DS Max) I was laid off this past 12/31/21. Now I`m pursuing my dream of woodworking, and as luck would have it I come across you. Good looking work all around! Thanks for sharing, and my very best to you and yours!
Sorry to hear you got laid off. Is it due to a changing industry or fallout from Covid? ... if you dont mind my asking.
Happy to hear you enjoy the format. Thanks for the well wishes, too. Same to you and yours!
@@The3DHandyman Some may be offended by this, but the defense industry suffers anytime the Democrats take control. Defense spending is always cut, with training being one of the first things to suffer. I was a modeler for a subcontractor that supplied training (CBT) to everyone from Bath Iron Works, Boeing, Northrop Grumman and on down the line. That being said twenty-seven years of cube life was enough. I was ready anyway, just trying to rebound from our income being split in half. Sink or swim time. Thanks for asking, best from St. Augustine Florida!
@@jake8074 I know a guy that does just about the same thing for ship builders. I'm sure there is more modeling work out there for you, if you want it, of course. Best of luck my friend!
@@The3DHandyman Thanks brother, cheers!
Oh Wow this is really good idea and your concept. It works. Getting a high powered fan will cause more air Blowing around the saw dust and other dust like a storm in your workshop. But keeping the fan to draw air into the filters is important. It will eventually clogged that fan motor up potential hazard. Heard the filter over the fan part. Also the filters are designed 1 direction air flow.
But if I were to build this which your design totally has me wanting to. If my fan were as strong as the one you are using I'd just build an air direction defuser like a foot above the exhaust of the fan. Attaching it to the top Housing. Like a roof. And design the air direction defuser to promote air circulation to bring that new saw dut in. I really like your concept and design and your work came out Awesome
Thank you! The diffuser concept has been suggested. I have not gotten around to 3D printing something for that but I will at some point.
I also made an update to this design in a new video where I use a fan with an enclosed motor so that dust can no longer get into any critical components! ruclips.net/video/NmgNQu4zDy0/видео.html
after using christ notap's method of a DIY dust collection system using 2 buckets and a cheap vacuum cleaner, I'm all for projects like this, and while the same parts may not necessarily be available where i live I will use your design as a guide, thanks for this! great video.
Set a $1 filter up to a $20 box fan. Done! It actually works as well as my shop air cleaner...
I bet it does. I just tested one and it puts out about 500CFM of filtered air, just as much as the average shop air filter... ruclips.net/video/NmgNQu4zDy0/видео.html
Great plans and easy enough design which makes it’s very usual removing excessive dust in the garage. Just built today and couldn’t be happier! Thank you!
Great to hear it, Carlos. Hopefully it works well for you for many years to come!
5:58 well done... way cool to see the fine dust going into the air filter
It's my favorite part too
@@The3DHandyman Excellent videos. I have subscribed and liked. Do you still use the thin mesh screens on your filters when you draw air into the unit? Thanks.
@@jimmiller5421 Thanks! That's a great question. I do use this and I am experimenting with better ways to implement it. I'll do a video on the concept next month with all my findings.
I like to use sheer mesh fabric with as small a opening as possible. The stuff I'm working with right now has .3mm openings and it works fairly well as a pre-filter. It doesn't prevent the filters from getting a layer of dust on them though. So, I am also working on other mods to further increase efficiency. Lots of content on the way!
that 3d animation are so good
The desk in the final shot is beautiful.
Thanks! There is a video on making the desk as well
i guesss, reversing the fan will cause the fan failure quickly because the dust will gather around the motor and bearing and within time it will eliminate it's ability to run.
i loved it actually and gonna plan to make one.
thanks for sharing us this.
No problem Abdul, I hope it works well for you. As far as the longevity of the fan goes, I wouldn't worry too much about it. I have seen this brand of fan clogged with 1/4" of oil metallic shop dust and it still ran perfectly well. That said, a filter for the housing would be best but I haven't had the time to make one just yet.
@@The3DHandyman thanks, i forget to mention another issue , it will get dusty quickly rather cleaning it .
This is the right kind of fan to use with the filters. Congrats. Also: air discharge near the fan is quite chaotic. Normally a fan is tested with 10' of discharge duct to allow the air to take a uniform velocity profile. If you check carefully, you'll actually find many instances where the air near the motor is moving TOWARD the discharge of the fan. Makes for quite difficult measurement without a discharge duct. And I agree that merv13 is the minimum. BTW, when you see air flow (cfm) ratings on consumer fans, this is almost always at "free delivery": no pressure loss/drag. (4) Merv13 filters will probably cut the air flow to about 60% of named air flow. But this assembly will clear the air in a shop. To protect lungs, it's still a good idea to trap as much dust as you can at the tool. But some always escapes.
That's exactly why I ended up reading the air at the filter rather than at the fan. Interesting note on how the fans are tested at 10 feet, it makes a lot of sense.
I am going to make an update to this design soon with a 4000cfm fan and MERV14 filters. I'm hoping the performance of that will meet or exceed this one. I'll also test the performance of the current unit after 1 year of use with no filter changes.
@@The3DHandyman The test process is idealized, but it allows engineers to know a regulated starting place. AMCA is the industry body. Choice of fan volume and filter merv depend on what you're trying to do.
@@petem6503 The goal is to filter out as much particulate as possible and as quickly as possible. I am filtering concrete dust out of the air lately and that's something I really don't want to be breathing. I know MERV14 is not a HEPA filter but it is closer than MERV13 at least.
I am running some numbers for the upgraded unit and I have a question you might be able to answer. If the MERV 14 filters in the unit have a total rated capacity of about 6,500CFM and the new fan only produces 4000CFM, will the filters be able to preform better than what they are rated at? Could they achieve MERV15 filtration by functioning at less than 2/3 of their rated capacity? Just wondering if you have any thoughts on the matter. I understand that any official answer would need real world testing.
@@The3DHandyman I've never looked at filtration efficiency vs media velocity, but it wouldn't surprise me if there was a slight improvement with lower velocity. At the particle size in question, the filter media is more of a physical strainer, so velocity isn't the main performance metric. When designing a system, you have to consider several factors. The first is particle size: the particle in question is "cement" (not concrete), and those range 0.1~10 micron; that's merv 12~15 territory. Next question is how much particle generation and room size, which would then yield how much filtered air you need to keep the space "clean" (a VERY relative term): most of the time you want to calculate minutes of air change (or air change per hour, ACH): divide room volume (cu.ft.) by air flow (cfm). A typical office space usually runs 8~10 minutes air change. If you've got particle concentrations and hazard above this, skip the air cleaner and go for a respirator. Air cleaning eventually works (dependent on particle generation rate), but you breathe a lot of stuff in while waiting for that 10 minutes. Next, realize that the filters and the fan are a SYSTEM. The more air you try to push, the more resistance in the filter media; the more resistance, the less air the fan can produce. This is why serious air cleaning uses fans that can change speed. Realize that the "rating" for air volume in the filter is usually measured at some industry metric such as 300 feet/minute velocity, and you can actually run the air at much higher or much lower amounts, the impact being higher energy consumption if you speed up the fan, or lower air flow for a constant speed fan with smaller filter area. It's a continuous trade off between factors. AND, as the filters collect dust, the pressure loss at a constant velocity goes UP, OR if the fan speed is constant, the air flow goes down as the filters get dirty. That help?
Great info! I will definitely keep these concepts in mind for the new video. Thanks for taking time time to get into the details. Very interesting stuff 👍
You have amazing editing / animation skills.
Very nice!
Factual, articulate, straight forward with great production & 3D!
When you flipped the fan direction, did you also reverse the filters? I think they are designed to move air in one direction, right? I wonder why most Cosri boxes use push configuration? I wonder if one designed for home could have the fan on the bottom, pull config, and have the entire unit lifted above the ground 2-3 feet and work well.
I really enjoyed the content and the way you delivered it. Thanks for your time and talent. Look forward to following your channel.
@Rich Marshall I'm looking forward to getting more content uploaded soon. Thanks for subscribing!
Hey you could get a round hepa filter that they use on larger cyclone type dust collectors, I'll bet it would work great and they can be cleaned out and used for years. They're about the same size as the setup you had.
Definitely something I will keep in mind. Thanks!
Thank you 👍🏼 amazing craftsmanship and production
Cool animation.
Too bad thr pull configuration didnt workout. Now there will be pile of dust on the inside to clean out.
Making me wince with your fingers that close to the blade! Push stick my friend!
Already picked one up! Thanks for your concern
Very professional video, I wonder if you left it in pull mode and put something on the exhaust to act as a diffuser? Or, let it run and blow down the whole shop until there isn’t any dust left to be stirred up? It seems that letting the fan get caked up will become a pain?
Thanks! I hope to do some more experimentation with this in the next few months. I think the plan will probably be to make a filter for the fan motor.
Great content! As a thought for improvement, would putting double the amount of filters (1 very cheap to take the most beating and after that the better quality one) increase the efficiency of the air purifier? Then also the better quality filter would last longer
Thank you! The new design features exactly that. I'll cover it in my next video.
I kept the "suck mode" even though it initially produces additional dust. The dust eventually is moved around until sucked into the filters. Mine is based on a box fan with 4 ea 20x30 MERV 13 filters.
Awesome. Thanks for the notes on your build!
I also vote for suck. I was going to try flipping the whole thing over so it poi ts down, but then opted not to, cause I didn't want it to be a hovercraft.
Thanks for this info, I am making something similar. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! I will have a video out on what filters are best in a few hours...
really like this video, very useful, I will be making one of these for my shop eventually.
Other than maybe floor space........ Is there a reason to do this vertically instead of a horizontal directional design? Or an upside down "L"? Pulling air from the work space, through the fan and out the filters? I like the idea pulling it in through the fan better and glad you changed it to this direction, it utilizes the filter box as a collection container as well. Just make a cone shaped cover for the engine housing with directional vents so it still breaths but deflects the dust passing.
The vertical design is the direction I went because it could be parked next to whatever was producing dust and maintain a small footprint.
I do like the idea of a ceiling mounted horizontal filter that could create more defined circulation within in the space. Like, one side of the room is IN and the other is OUT so it's always filtering in one direction.
You have some good thoughts and I will redesign this filter at some point with some of these things in mind 👍
Awesome work! An idea would be to make a large curved wooden air duct outlet to direct air coming out the fan sideways. If you were to aim the airflow opposite way from the saw it would help pull more dusty air towards the filter and you could go back to pull configuration and keep the fan clean. With that much CFM I'd be aiming to make a very large outlet probably twice the size at least of the fan surface area so it would have less air velocity as it leaves the outlet and less mess around the shop. It would be important to have a thin plywood or something you can curve so the air can move smooth and quiet keeping the most CFM possible.
I do like that idea! My favorite approach so far would be to integrate it into the ceiling and duct the air to the opposite side of the space to create one-directional air circulation through the shop. One day...
@@The3DHandyman That's a great idea. The blade fan you have could probably handle some duct work but too much and you will lose a lot of CFM. I thought of doing something like that with a large B-AIR VP50 which is 2820 CFM blower fan and that will keep the static pressure higher with some duct work. The ultimate would be an old furnace blower, They will push air in a shop duct system really well. No matter what, these DIY projects are awesome to see the outcome. My air filter is currently a small wood box with a 25x20x5 mpr 1550 filter. I built it into a wooden box and sealed the box fan in with weather stripping and tape the filter on like you do. The box fan is 2500 CFM but greatly reduced with only 1 filter. My filter is equivalent to 5 of the 20x20x1 so still not too bad.
@@practicalguy973 That sounds like a solid setup. It's always cool to see what people come up with for this common problem.
I looked at blower motors for this build but the ones that pushed a lot of CFM were out of my price range.
@@The3DHandyman I hear you. I have the impressive B-AIR VP-20 blower that I bought 3 years ago to push air along my basement floor that can get damp. Its the smallest one they offer and got it on sale for $30 at Home Depot so that's as much as I was willing to spend on any fan and why I did the cheaper box fan for my filter and not the VP-50! Large blowers are really expensive. If ever replacing a furnace in your home it would be smart to keep the blower fan. Free and powerful.
@@practicalguy973 Craigslist might be a good place to look for that sort of thing too. Maybe someone else is trying to unload a big blower after a home renovation or AC replacement.
One thing to consider when buying those is how they are wired. Some might be 3 phase or too high amperage for an average home outlet.
I use these in a few key locations. What baffles me is people that flow the fan out of the box. If the fan stops all the crap falls from the outside of the box. I flow the fan into the box. I use 4 merv filters and a box fan. Lasts about a year. Then it's an easily disposable box of dirt and dust.
I also prefer blowing air into the box. That said, I will do a pre-filter video some time soon where blowing air out of the box makes more sense (but does require vacuuming the sides).
If you rebuild it in the future you could put the fan at the bottom of the configuration to have the air going straight at the floor rather than up at the ceiling. It is less likely to push the dust further than it should.
Sounds like a fine idea. It may also help pick up dust on the floor and deposit it in the filter.
Professional video editing great job. Wildfire plague Californians could use filters like this to filter out smoke particles so they can breathe
Thank you. I hadn't considered smoke filtration as a possible use case. Great point! For filtering out smoke particles people should consider using MERV 11 or higher air filters. The higher the rating, the better. Thanks for the comment.
Good vid. I’m installing a similar system to exhaust fumes from my welder.
Awesome! The Caterpillar fan has an enclosed motor which might suit you even better than the Maxx Air fan used in this video. My latest video talks more about it ruclips.net/video/NmgNQu4zDy0/видео.html
I want to by the kit you offer on Etsy, but couldn’t find it. I’m looking for the one on wheels with 8 filters on wheels. Thanks, Al
Hi Al! Unfortunately I'm not making the kit for this design at the moment. It requires a lot of sanding that I don't have time for. You can make this one yourself with the free plans or take a look at the new Model-B.
The new design offers a lower price with lower filter replacement costs as well as faster shipping times with the same level of performance. The way the kit fit's together is a bit different, though. So, let me know if you have any questions about anything.
Here is the link www.etsy.com/listing/1373712349
How to put the new kit together (this is a temp video while I finish up the official video) ruclips.net/video/MLF8qv1tGSQ/видео.html
Man some of your tablesaw cuts had me sweating.
Yes, this has been a topic of conversation. New videos will feature the appropriate push sticks 👍
In my home I've replaced the registers for the AC with ones that will accept a filter, and I use the really cheap (Still under $1 US if bought in a pack of 6) ones in that. It traps the vast majority of dust and makes the $10 one in the furnace last three or four months instead of just one. The cheap one needs to be changed once a month, so I'm already saving about $45 a year.
That's a great idea! Thanks for the comment
@@The3DHandyman I just realized that my comment sounded off-topic, I meant to say it would help make the filters in the shop air cleaner last longer. I commented before I watched the video and saw that you put a fine screen over them.
@@milesparris4045 All good. That s a good method for helping keep the high MERV filters clean for a much longer time. I am plaining on testing a few double filter methods in a future video and the concept you mentioned will be one of them!
Stupid question and maybe I should just build it to find out. But what if you mounted the fan on the bottom, let the air push out towards the floor. You’d kick up the dust, yes, but theoretically it should get sucked back into the filters. Keeps the balance point low, doesn’t push everything to the ceiling.
A few people have mentioned this. Not sure if anyone has built on yet. It seems like a sound concept. If you want, you could build one and then post about how it works
would be interested to see how well it works if you put the fan in the middle and had a cube of filters on each end. Would solve the motor dust problem, the fan would be closer to the ground to suck up more dust, and also diffuse the fan exhaust
So far I'm really happy with the performance of this unit. I am moving into a new shop in a month or two and will be making some air filtration upgrades to this deign as well as adding a new system when I do. Stay tuned!
killer graphics bro. Very nice demonstration !
Thank you! Nice airbrushing you've got there. I got into that back in the '00s on White on White Airforce Ones
@@The3DHandyman oh cool !
@@The3DHandyman thanks 🙏🏼
Love the video and the design. But I don't see how this could be built for $200. The cheaper fan costs $120. The design requires 8 filters. A 4 pack of the 3M Merv 13 filters is $89. So just the fan and the filters costs $300. Then the wood, casters and foam tape would be a little more. Am I missing something?
Glad you enjoy the design! Your math is accurate, what it doesn't account for is inflation. Since the launch of this video at the beginning of 2020 much has changed.
I have a few videos that will cover mods to this unit that will be out next month. In those I will cover prefilters and multi stage filtration. These things can increase the initial cost but lower the long term operating costs of the design as well as boost performance. I also have more designs on the way for small space filtration.
I'm going to make push blocks that look like real hands and watch the hall monitors lose their minds. That being said, great videos, well produced.
lol, you would get all the views! There are many and they all need to say the same thing. I appreciate their comments tho, they are right in the end.
And thanks, I appreciate your watching and especially commenting on the video!
@@The3DHandyman they are, for sure. Doesn't make them less annoying 🤣🤣 I equate it to the old people that try to give you parenting advice in grocery stores, thinking they're the first and only ones to be smart enough to tell you that they're probably cranky because they're tired. Yeah, they're right. But that's also a stupid thing to say to someone who's struggling with cranky kids. Anyway... I also think being kind and humane is a virtue, you got that down. I couldn't help myself from trolling them, just like I can't help myself from trolling the old people in grocery stores...
I’ve got a 24” Harbor Freight shop fan, thinking about using it….5000+ CFM. Think it will works too big?
It seems ok at first glance. I am putting together an update for this video where I will offer plans for different configurations that people have asked for. The same sort of construction as the current unit could be used with your fan, just different dimensions.
Many 24"x24"x2" filters can filter about 2000CFM and maintain their MERV rating. A 1" thick filter of the same size might be able to filter closer to 1500CFM. If there are 4 of these filters it theoretically should be able to handle about 6000CFM max. Based on the outside dimensions of the fan (4) 20"x30"x1" filters may be more suitable for construction. 4 of those provide a little more surface area and could theoretically handle 6500CFM. The higher the CFM on the filters, the better the fan performance will be. I wouldn't want to impede the fan's operation by using filters that can't handle at least 5000CFM.
There are other factors at play but the math seems to check out on the design. It will be a large unit, though. A ceiling mount might be best if you have the headroom.
Enjoying your videos so far keep up the great work! You gained a subscriber 😀
@TroyBoy Hairytoe Glad to hear it! The video on how I made the redwood table in the profile pic is currently uploading. Check back later today to see that one.
Love that animation...
wow very well produced
How much "recirculation" do you thing there is? When we are talking about how long it would take to filter a given space by diving the volume by the CFM, this assumes no recirculation... Would there be a way to create a gap between the air intake and output? It would be neat to check with a meter to see the concentration of particles in the air, and measure how adding that distance affects how quickly the dust concentration goes down.
Damn, these animations are nice!
The build as well, btw ;)
Thanks Maxwell!
This is awesome. Would those filter out the smell of anything growing using those filters? 😂 I got excited watching the video, I have to make me one of these. Fantastic video and awesome plans Mr 3D. Hey if the thicker filters were used would this slow the flow? Also, if I added another section of filters would this be as advantageous as to theoretically reduce the filter airflow resistance by a half, so the blower would have a throughput of 2750 CFPM? Thanks.
Good questions!
- A MERV 13 filter with an activated carbon layer should be able to filter smells but to what degree, I'm not sure. These filters are also quite expensive.
- MERV 13 filters are often thicker (4") than the ones used in this video. As a result of their thickness they are able to filter more air than the thin filters so less would be sufficient. Rather than 8, 4 filters would be fine.
- As of last time I checked the newest model of the fan that was used in this video has a much reduced power of 1500 CFM, so keep that in mind when calculating how quickly the air in your space is circulated.
Hope this helps!
If you has left the original configuration you would have found after the initial dust disruption, the dust would have gone way down. Pulling air through the filters is much more eficent. And you want the strong exit air to circulate to get the whole workspace filtered. Good luck. Also G4 level paint booth filter as prefilter a must
Good points. I might get around to making a paint booth at some point
@@The3DHandyman a coarse prefilter (paint booth media) stops the large particles blocking main panel. Means they keep working many times as long. The reason you don't often see prefilter, is that they want to sell you new filters. Good luck
Great video, build and demonstration. Thank you for sharing your idea and your real world results. I like your style!
I'm wondering if you could pick up a few more CFM's with one additional filter built in the floor of the unit. Based on your math, it should push the airflow over 2,700 CFM's. Did you lose some CFM flow with the easy clean mesh screen upgrade?
Also, some dryer ducting or something similar might increase effectiveness as well. Then you could place one end of the dryer ducting closer to source of the wood dust being created.
I would have to think that the more filters there are the higher the CFM would go. If there was a 3rd set under the unit, the fan may be able to run at it's theoretical maximum or close to it.
The ducted idea would for sure be even more effective but my one concern would be a rapid buildup of dust inside the motor housing. If it had some sort of dust filtering cap on it, it would make me less nervous. Anything full of fine dust is a potential fire hazard and the fan motor does get hot. That said, I have seen these fans in other shop/kitchen environments that were absolutely covered in grease and dust without apparent issues. Regardless, just to be on the safe side I clean it out every time I use it if the fan is in the push configuration.
I made this, sort of. I thought this design was top-heavy so I moved the fan to the side bottom losing one filter. I used 20x25x1, the same as my furnace. I also installed a speed control on the fan.
Nice work!
This is perfect for my shop. I clicked the link you provided for the plans, but it leads to a “404 not found” dead link. Could you check on that and let me know if there is a different link? Thanks!
The link in the description is fixed. Thanks for letting me know! the3dhandyman.com/workshop-air-filter-drawings/
Thank you!
Push Sticks. Wonderful things.
Since you have air blowing into the box, how and how often do you clean the inside so that the filters don’t clog?
In one of my next videos I will talk more about clogged filter performance. More testing is needed but so far I can say that with the Nordic Pure MERV 14 filters on this unit take 2 times longer to clean the air of smoke(ultra small particles) after 6 months of heavy shop use without any cleaning at all (wood dust, sanding dust, lots of cement dust, spray paint, oily vapors).
I am working on making some pre-filters for these and the "push" config that you mentioned is a bit more challenging than the "pull" option... but I will come up with something to test.
I was so impressed with this presentation, and the provided cut/materials list, that I've acquired the fan, the wood, the filters and casters to build this unit based on your design! Love the fact that it is portable and relatively compact. My only concern was the scotch tape to hold the filters in. After such a nice job it seemed a shame to cheapen it up with tape. Did you ever modify the tape to a more substantial scenario? I''m looking into adding some mod to hold the filters in place without tape yet allow easy access to change the filetrs. Also looking to add some type of filter to the top of the fan to increase the life of the motor and keep the inside of the fan clean. Overall, a great design and most important...you took the time to put together an excellent video and provide all the info to build this unit. Thank you so much!!!
Thanks Harte! One option might be to put swivel/rotating type locks on the outside of the unit that pin the filters in place. I have no idea what those are called but a trip to the hardware store might find you something that fits that description. This sort of attachment would also require some foam seal tape on the inside surfaces. I have not tried any of this, but in theory it should work. Good luck with any mods that you attempt. Let me know if anything in particular works for you!
@@The3DHandyman 3D...I finished the project and made some mods. To eliminate the tape, I cut eight- baltic ply wood strips 1-1/4"W x 41"H and attached them using threaded hanger bolts to the vertical sides of the filter openings. I secured these strips with toggle bolts for easy removal. Once attached, the filters are securely held in place with minimal air leakage (although I have no instruments to really test this). To change the filter, all you do is remove one ply strip side and loosen the other and the filter pops right out.
You had mentioned the need for some form of filtration for the fan motor. I addressed this by constructing a frame to hold another filter which sits on top. I'm going to use some turnbuckles which I'll attach to the side of this frame and to the two knobs that came with the fan.
Because the fan motor will now be covered by a filter, I made an external on-off switch to easily turn on the motor without having to remove the filter. I also drilled a hole and ran the fan motor power cord through the side fan housing, into the external switch and on to the plug to insure a tight seal between the fan motor and its filter. I'd send images, but not sure how I can do that! Overall your concept is really sound and has helped cleanse the air in my small garage shop! Thanks again for sharing your ideas with the woodworking community!
...Correction!!!...I didn't use "toggle bolts"...I used wing nuts to the hanger bolts to secure the wooden strips that hold the filters in place. Sorry!!!
@@harterobba134 Nice work! I like the idea and execution. Thanks for sharing what you came up with. Enjoy the fresh air!
I modified and secured the filters with strips of thin plywood which overlapped the filters. This was secured with wing nuts which allowed easy removal. It secured the entire side of the filters negating the need for foam stripping. I then made a frame for the top of the fan which holds a thin filter to keep dust out of the motor. It is secured to the fan using turnbuckles. This reduces some of the air flow but is better for the life of the motor. If I really need flow, I remove this filter and cover the motor vents with a cut-out cap made from a Costco mixed nuts jar. I cut a hole in that and used a piece of face mask material as a filter
In this video you show a short clip of planning with a Delta lunchbox planner and a dust collection shroud. Where did you build/buy that? I have the same planner and the OEM dust shroud is terrible at best. If this is a model you built do you have any drawings.
Nice catch! I couldn't agree more, the factory dust port clogs in seconds. Total afterthought. My solution was made at a time before this channel so I don't have any plans or a video of the build. But I can describe it for you in as much detail as I can remember...
This video has a few different angles of the design at 3:40 and 5:40 ruclips.net/video/IIvMcjH3ICg/видео.html
The design is as thick as the factory design. Plastic screws hold a board on to the rear of the planer. The board has 2 hinges on it so that the DIY dust port can be tilted up to remove any clogs if they occur. The base of the unit is MDF.
The sides are 3/4" plywood that have slots cut into it with the table saw so that it can bend around the rear side. Then there is a strip of veneer that goes over that because the plywood cracked a little while bending it.
After this glue up dried I got a thick stretchy piece of fabric to drape over it in a way that smoothly transitions the square output on the planer to a rounded scoop at the back. No edges for chips to get hung up on. Then I coated the cloth with epoxy resin to make it hard and smooth. A small container of epoxy should be plenty.
The top is plexiglass so I can see if there is any build up. The port for the dust collector is actually a 4" plumbing fitting. If I remember correctly, I went with that because it had a sharp 45 degree bend that matched the shape of the resin cloth... and it had a nice flange.
The design works effortlessly. Duct/chip build up only happens if I have a clog in the dust collector or a kink in the tubing.
I hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@The3DHandyman That works....The additional video footage helps with your description. I think the planner is a decent one for the price point but the DC is horrible. I hope to build something similar in the future. I have not seen anyone else change this as you have. Thanks for the response and keep doing what you do. I am in a small basement shop and will be building your air cleaner soon. I am trying to decide on fan pointing down or up. I see many others have asked this question. It is hard to visualize fan down into filters as "drawing" the same amount of air as when pointing up but if the volume of air in a space is constant I wonder if the direction of the fan makes a difference? Blowing out the top would kick up a large amount of loose dust that is in the shop but would eventually pass through the filters. Once the room is "clean" the daily operation should not kick up more dust.
@@thaynegouse576 Yeah, the push vs pull config really just comes down to preference. While I work with cement I don't want the dust to go anywhere in the shop at all so the push config works nicely for that. The pull config is just fine for general use.
@@thaynegouse576 Let me know how you like the filter once you get it going!
I like the "down" fan position because it sucks cement dust off my work surface really well. If I point the fan "up" then some of the airborne dust gets thrown into the outgoing stream of air and I really don't like cement dust getting anywhere. I also like the down position for cleaning parts and filtering vacuum pump exhaust. "Up" wouldn't work so well for those particular activities....but for general airborne dust filtration, the "Up" method will work just very well for keeping the air safe to breath.
The shop I am working with for the air filters kits is pretty much a constant cloud of dust. The "up" position would be the right thing for that space.
I kinda did something like this for the inside of my house, except made out of a 1 foot square cardboard tube that's 7 feet high.
Originally made it to move the hot summer air from my ceiling downstairs,to mix with the cooler air. Then it passed by a A/C unit through my kitchen upon circulation.8000btu ac is cooling 1400 sqf doing this. But on a whim I put a filter on it, now it became an entire crude house filtration system for 1400 sqf. lol.
That's a great idea! At my place the temperature variation between the upstairs and downstairs is 15-20 degrees at times. Adding a filter to the unit is even better. Nice work
@@The3DHandyman thanks! Your project gave me an idea to make a more sturdy project out of wood or something.
Maybe translucent panels for a lighted colume,with more smaller filters at the top. So it looks more like a piece of furniture.
Just to be clear, this things sits on a old unused cold air return in my living room.
Again thanks for a new idea 💡
@@Actionronnie Happy to help! Enjoy the new project
Wow. Top-notch. Subscribed.
Thanks for subscribing!
I am currently shopping for dust collection systems for my power tools. After all is said and done it seems to get down to cfm...and collection. Most units in my range are 600 to 900 cfm. When I look at 2500...all I can think of is why dont I port your fan down to 4 inches...add a cyclone separator and small barrel....and blow the rest out the wall where nobody sees it? Obviously the 2500cfm will take a drastic dive... but I bet no where near 800. Thoughts? It would be great to build a super powerful system for cheap. Thanks
This sort of fan moves air quite well but it may not produce enough suction for a dust collection system. An impeller type fan blade produces better results in this scenario. That said it may work, just not quite as well as you might want it to.
Also, the new version of this fan is also only rated at 1300cfm. Not sure why they cut the power so drastically.
Gracias por compartir, justo lo que necesitaba. // Thanks for sharing, just what I need, excellent job.
Question, the fan linked here says its 1600 cfm. Where is the 3000cfm fan you used?
Good question! The 3000cfm fan is no longer available from Maxx Air. The New version of the fan is only rated at 1600cfm. It may very well be identical to the old fan but I have not tested it.
I retested the fan in this video with a new methodology in a new video. I took a reading from a wind tunnel to measure the laminar flow coming out of the fan itself instead of measuring at the filters which seems to have given erroneous results (possibly because the filter surface can not be considered "open area"?). With the new method the "3000cfm" version used in this video appears to output 1570cfm without filters and 1400cfm with filters. So, I cant say for sure but if the factory says 1600 it may actually put out 1600cfm. If that's the case, it's still the most powerful version of this design. I talk more about it in both of the videos below
Here is the link to the updated version of this video
ruclips.net/video/NmgNQu4zDy0/видео.html
Here is a link to my diy air filter comparison video
ruclips.net/video/KobogQMf_Xc/видео.html
I'll be testing a ton of different filter brands soon to see how they preform with airflow and small particle collection. I'd like to see the Maxx air fan hit 1500cfm. It's not 2500, but still pretty good
@@The3DHandyman thank you, i also posted another question about adding a pre filter to the fans intake side? Will that reduce efficiency? I have a 4700 cubic foot space. Im looking to build a hanging unit and also a small mobile unit. I also want to use a combo of washable filters and cloth.
@@SonsOfThunder229 I have purchased supplied for a prefilter and just finished the demo unit that it was designed for. I hope to have that and 3 filter kits available within the next few weeks. I will test the efficiency with 2 different levels of screens that can be vacuumed. One with larger holes and one with smaller holes. It will reduce efficiency but I cant say by how much...yet.
@@SonsOfThunder229 Also, I have some 3D printed brackets that will hold the fan on tight for ceiling/wall mounts. For really large spaces a build like this one might work nicely for you. Creating a feedback loop in the room will really boost filtration efficiency. I will make a whole video about the concept some time soon.
@@The3DHandyman so i made a filter using a 1/4hp furnace blower. I have two filters on the intake side. It seems to work ok, i havent tested anything with a meter. But im kind of thinking it can work better or i missed something. Can you critique this for me? Do you have an email?
What is the diameter of the fan? And, where did you source it? Couldn’t find it on Amazon. Thank you.
The outside is about 17.5" for both of these fans:
Maxx Air (Orange): amzn.to/3fXokQC
Caterpillar with Enclosed Motor (Black): amzn.to/3TD9NM3
The Maxx air that I used for this version seems to be marketed as 1600cfm now. After a wind tunnel test even the old version only preforms at about 1600cfm. They may have just updated the info or they made the fan lower quality. I'm not sure.
Personally I like the Caterpillar fan because it has an enclosed motor and preforms essentially the same as the Maxx Air.
Sorry for the late reply, I haven't gotten to comments in a while.
Thanks so much
With the reversal of the air flow, you didn't mention if you reversed the orientation of the filters, as they almost always have a specified direction of air flow, which is indicated on the filter itself.
Correct, these need to be flipped around in this scenario.
How about If you used a belt driven motor that was this would the dust have an impact on the belt and such?
Possibly over time dust could eat away at the belt but it may not dramatically reduce the life of the part. I could see it making the belt more likely to slip tho.
Well done video. I have been researching air filtration for some time. Also what table saw are you using during build process? Thanks again for a great video. You can disregard the question I have now watched more of your videos and I have my answer. Thanks for great content.
@Anthony Ramsey
Thanks Anthony! More content on the way...
Hi. What's the brand filters? Is posibility buy this in Amazon? What's the material of the filters? Thanks...
Sorry for my english...
I need this filter for ten vertical panel Saw
I bought a pack of these on a website that only sells air filters. There are quite a few to choose from. Here are 2 options:
www.filterbuy.com/
www.airfilters.com/
@@The3DHandyman Thanks for this information 👌🏻
Great design! One suggestion: what if you made it 24”square, mount the fan in the center and added a 20”x20” filter on the top? Just a thought. Little bigger footprint, but lower center of gravity and a push/pull effect for double filtration.
Thanks! My concern with the filters on each side would be a reduction in overall performance due to the double filtration. I like the idea of a 20" box with the fan pointing down to stir up dust or upwards with a ducted of diffused design (as has been suggested in other comments). In both cases the air would only be filtered one time with the fan pulling air through the filters first.
Otherwise with the current design as -is the fan motor can just get dusted off once per use and that should be enough. I have used it for 4 years with no issues.
I will highlight a wall-mounted design that I hope will eliminate this issue all together in a new video that will be out next week.
Great video and thanks very much for the plans. Where did you purchase the thin mesh screen covering your filters?
I picked that up at a local fabric store (Hancock/Joann Fabrics). It was helpful to brows for a mesh that had openings not to large or too small. The material is basically a synthetic mesh screen/fabric. It's a pretty thin material. You can probably find something similar online.
@@The3DHandyman Many Thanks,
Great work. This has definitely made me want to build one. Efficiency may be better with the direction of flow, but I'd be concerned about the life expectancy of the fan motor. There's a reason all HVAC systems have filtration before the fan. Also, any issues with the filters maintaining a good seal against the frame with the positive pressure? It'd be great to get your review after using this for av year or two to see if you have any updates or suggestions. Thanks for the great video and inspiration!
Thanks! This filter has worked well for years now. I'll do an update in a few months with some modifications to this one and a new build.
@@The3DHandyman love to see that man! this looks like exactly what i need
Very cool design. Got me thinking about something similar in a ceiling-mounted form. (After all, there's always limited floor space in my shop.)
Would basically turn your design on its side & add a single filter to the far end (opposite the fan). Might have to remove 2 filters from what is now the top in order to mount/suspend it, so it would use 7 total instead of 8. Think it would be effective like that?
It seems like a fine idea. If you want to know for sure you can brows through the comments you will find a few ideas similar to yours. Then, reply to those comments to see if those individuals have had success with their mods
The Lasko Air Flex 20 in. 3- Speed Air Purifier and Room Fan (cfm 2000) could be another option since it already has a filter protecting the motor
Good on them for actually making a product out of that idea! Thanks for the comment
Wondering if it could work in the pull configuration, but aimed down? Fan on bottom... it will definitely stir up floor dust, but maybe that's OK, because it filters it???
A lot of people have suggested this. Not sure why that wouldn't work. You'd just have to flip it upside down and put some stilts on it.
Love it! I might build one for my place.
Love your videos! A quick Q: how loud is the fan? Keep creating!!!
Thanks Avi! I think it is around 60-70bd on high, more quite on low
Pull configuration could be done if you put an air diverter on top of it so it wasn't hitting the cieling. However, if you didn't and it stirred up dust it may then remove them.
Very true. I like the air diverter concept for sure. I may build one of those at some point
Sweet design. Questions:
1) Any idea how much better the air flow would be with 2 or even 4" thick filters, as I've read they allow better flow?
2) For the pull configuration, can you attach a flexible HVAC tube and point the air flow out a window/door? Or would that mess with the filtration capability?
If the air filter is close to it's maximum efficiency already there may little to gain by using 2 or 4 inch filters. If you only used 4 total filters rather than 8, the thicker filters would give you a boost in performance.
The filter could blow air out of the room via a tube if you are trying to vent VOC's but keep in mind that there will need to be some sort of air inlet into the room to keep the fan working properly.
The best configuration I could imagine for dust filtration would have the filters on one side of the room and then a duct would bring the outgoing air to the opposite side of the room. This would create a positive feedback loop in which the air would always be pulled toward the filters.
@@The3DHandyman wow, thank you! Will try to build one this summer.
@@MadLadsAnonymous Awesome. Let me know how it goes!