S-Curves and Helix Lessons Learnt at Chadwick Model Railway |165.
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- S-Curves can be a hidden source of derailments. Also, let's catch up with the helix lessons learnt at Chadwick Model Railway. 165
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Great work Charlie. I'm amazed that you could get that completed in three days. How long did the build process take on Helix 1? I can see you putting in some sort of temporary connection to reach the river board. That will enable continuous running and would be a big milestone if you can do that.
One minor detail you skipped was checking the clearance for the reversing loop that I nagged you about :)
Always entertaining.
I’m so pleased that the construction lived up to your expectations Lee. The reverse loop clearance was a little tight but no remedial action was necessary.
I’m now faced with the construction of the connecting board which is somewhat of a head scratching dilemma.
Still, it’s only bits of wood!
Thanks for your patience and guidance once more mate.
Regards Charlie
This is what model railroading is about. Two people great distances between them and one helps the other ,in the case you designed the layout for Charlie, and have become friends because of it. A great thing you did for Charlie and he showing his gratitude so humbly. It is nice to witness.
That’s a very heartwarming comment Bob. Regards Charlie
@@bobainsworth5057 thanks for such a nice comment.
Something that should be made very clear - the overall layout design is all Charlie. I've acted as a draftsman for him getting it into Anyrail and suggested a few tweaks and a bit of adjustment here and there to make operational aspects smoother. I can also claim to be a bit of a sounding board for Charlie.
But Chadwick is very much Charlie's design.
I'm a Lee Stobart spotter 😁👍
Wonder just how many viewers are watching and having the dawning that most of the running problems a certain big youtuber comes up with in his "dramatic" reviews are entirely preventable by him just laying track properly and teaching others to do so rather than perpetuating the myth that you can just chuck track on the carpet and off you go. 🤣 that oh god this is the main man promoting our hobby on youtube moment.
Tam Stains by any chance? Beloved by the RUclips algorithm. Can't escape the guy.
@@markchambers3833 no idea who you're talking about ;)
Open secrets lol
Gentlemen, we attract the audience that we deserve.
Take care, regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway never a more truthful word spoken about the fine taste of your viewers, charlie. Keep respecting them and they'll take you far.
Evening Charlie. Chadwick is taking really good shape with the second helix being constructed 😀 The way you narrate each episode Charlie is a real pleasure to watch as you have a fantastic technique on getting the information across simply & easy to understand 👍🏻 Until your next video have a great weekend 😀
What a truly heartwarming comment Stevie.
Take care mate, regards Charlie
That 5-track helix you showed is absolutely crazy
Yes, I can’t imagine building it.
Regards Charlie
Just watching this again "we're in the middle of a heatwave" as I glance at the outdoor thermometer reading a mere -3.8C. Oh I wish we still were, Charlie! 😆
Our cold spell is now over. It’s the first time the temperature has come above zero for four days. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie.
Looking good for ther second helix!
Although it's not related to the helix in anyway, I spotted an issue you may want to think about.
At 17:15 mins you show where the helix joins the upper level.
I'm guessing the light blue is the new Chadwick TMD?
Where this joins the mainline, I notice that there isn't a catch-point.
In the event of a runaway loco/unit/stock suffering with brake failure or not having brakes properly applied, a catch point would be used to prevent them from going onto the running line.
Hope that helps.
Yes, there should be a catch point or a derail device (Gleissperre in German) or a turnout / switch set normally against a buffer (or a sand drag) - typ depending on country, era and local conditions - protecting the main line,
but that may be to p....typical for Charlie (while planning at least) 😉
Thanks Laura, definitely food for thought. Regards Charlie
Fruit based computer systems indeed.... ROFLMAO ;-)
Yes it’s a cracker Julian. Regards Charlie
Teak coating regarding camera burn sounds like my latest video might be right up your department both for operating layout and for your production purposes. It’s always a beauty watching your videos the ultimate video encyclopedia on model railway.
That’s very kind of you to say so Josef. Regards Charlie
"I do have more than one friend..." Yes, you do Charlie... yes, you do. Thank you for that reassurance. It made me laugh. I need a good laugh. Thank you. John
Thanks John, I’m so pleased that I brought a smile to your face. Regards Charlie
Great to see Helix 2 completed! Looking forward to seeing the train view run around the whole layout from the track view, like "hades" but shorter! Are you sitting a whole board above the helix next? ;) Great video!
Hi Gavin, I might install a temporary connection first to test out the whole layout. The bench work will be a challenge! Regards Charlie
The hill on the backcloth; you could put Glastonbury Tor on the top. I believe from reading LTC Rolt's account of the Foxcote disaster, that the S&DJR went through Glastonbury.
I shall check it out Tim. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, whilst I have no desire to have a Helix on my layout I nevertheless found this video quite interesting. Regards Greg
Thanks Greg, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting mate. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, Looking a your helix, I tried to download the Spreadsheet regarding the calculation, but it says it has been deleted. Do yo have a copy I can download please. Many Thanks Don
Hi Don, email me at
Chadwickmodelrailway@gmail.com. And I’ll email it back to you.
Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie, off topic but new to British modeling, been constructing a number of Metcalf card building kits, don't like the added paper corners, what knowledge do you or others have to mask these corners on buildings other than adding down pipes etc...
Thank you
Andrew
I understand your position Rosalyn. You could try using a similar coloured pen to mask the joints. It’s either that or perhaps running some ivy up the side of the wall. Regards Charlie
hey Charlie, just a thought for your wiring on the helix.
ive been planning my helix out for a bit now and a recent thought of mine could save you a TON of wire and soldering if you use crimp terminals.
I use the threaded rods as bus bars for my DCC/track voltage.
and then just crimp on a C terminal on the wire so you can slip it between the washers and baseboard of your layout and remove it later without unthreqding the entire rod.
then you only need 3-6 inches of wire for every tag you add into your helix.
my threaded rods are on different current sensing blocks and connect to each levels set of rails.
it allowed me to have 8 blocks (4 per rail, 2 rails on the helix) and almost NO vertical wiring between layers
You’re a cunning modeller SW.
Regards e
What is the relationship between curve radius and impact of S curve? I have found in my track planning I cannot fit a straight longer than 167mm in between the curves - so can I increase the radius leading in instead? What is a safe minimum radius leading in to the S curve before derailments occur?
I’m sorry, Andrew but I haven’t conducted such a scientific examination. Clearly the tighter the curve the more the risk, exacerbated by the length of the train. Regards, Charlie.
Just a wonderful video! I must admit: I actually thought of you as I read an article on CNN here in the U.S. telling the story of the condition "red" for the hot weather coming next week in the U.K. Hoping all stay healthy.
Thank you Kevin, that’s very kind mate. Regards Charlie
That "Yes, I have more than one friend." statement. The comedy continues!
As long as we all keep smiling RV. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie
Been quiet this fortnight.
Hope you are ok.
Heard about your weather.
Bit worried about you and your family
Howard
Rest assured Howard, things are fine here.
There is a delay on the video, due to the narrator requesting another edit! Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie
Hope everything’s OK. Was expecting another update.
Sorry Mike, but due to some editing issues with a narrator I have to re-edit it and get it out this Thursday. Regards Charlie
Charlie excllant video as always, there's a company called accu which specialises in stainles steel rods nuts washers and screws worth looking at, although i have no railway i enjoy your videos, came across accu when doing a lot of mods to my yacht.
Thanks Philip, next time I’ll certainly check them out. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie, excellent video as always very informative. the beast is taking shape now alright! looks great
I’m just now faced with a dilemma of the benchwork to connect it all up Richard. Regards Charlie
Watching you build the helix I wondered could you use the peices of all thread for power transfer to the rails?
Yes it definitely an option but one that never occurred to me. Regards Charlie
When clamping down parts of the Helix one should make sure that the section being fitted is still sitting nice and level. Three days well spent and good luck with the rest of the build. You are coming nearer and nearer to the Golden Spike Moment. Martin. (Thailand)
Yes the golden spike is an interesting thought Martin. Regards Charlie
Well I watch many hours of video today plus others. I noticed something that model vehicles used in layouts seem to big to the scale of layouts.
The model should be 1/76 scale. Regards Charlie
Hiya Charlie, just tried downloading the spreadsheet and it says it's no longer available?
Can you try on my latest video please HC.
Regards Charlie
Puts me to shame. It has taken me three years to build the baseboards, start building the station and I haven't even laid a complete loop yet!!
It’s the pressure of RUclips! Regards Charlie
CHARLIE IMPORTANT QUESTION DID YOUR WIFE FEED YOU A REASON FOR THE QUESTION I SEE YOU ARE WEARING A GOOD SHIRT AND YOU KNOW YOU WERE TOLD NOT TO GET YOUR GOOD SHIRTS VERY DURTY ONLY WEAR THEM WHEN YOU ARE ONLY TALKING AND NOT WORKING ON THE LAYOUT I SEE NO BLACK EYES SO MAYBE WHEN YOU WHERE BUILDING SO MAYBE YOU CHANGED SHIRTS WHEN YOU WHERE BUILDING NAUGHTY BOY CHARLIE
Sadly some of my Chadwick T-shirts I’ve seen better days, and those are the ones I wear during the risk of glue spillages! Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, why not solder the fishplates? Good video, cheers, Mark
I take your point mark, however it might cause heat expansion and contraction issues. Regards Charlie
Could the steel uprights be used for passing current to the track? Dave Barnes in Southend on Sea
A good spot David, and yes they can. Several people have mentioned it but it’s kind of one of those things I shy away from as it could add complications into block detection. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie for another good video. Maybe when I can release a room, I could do with a couple of spirals. Thank you for taking us step by step through a number of pitfalls, several of which I wouldn't have even thought about. Definitely I wouldn't have thought about building it at peak temperatures and then wondered why track buckling took place. Mind you, super cold weather in attics can cause the track to contract in winter, which if you have connected the track in hot weather can cause huge gaps between the track. Unfortunately, I found out the hard way about S curves although using flexible track and a very shallow S instead of straight track can look very attractive in a layout. I agree about the re-use of fish plates having been caught out by this in the past, so will only use them as a temporary solution because I can't remember where I put the new fish plates that I bought. (Senior moments only get worse. Three things happened when I got to 70. The first was I started losing my memory and I can't remember what the other two things are now. Quote Norman Wisdom). Definitely run your hands along the track to ensure that you have actually connected the track properly. The disconnect usually only happens on one side and the way you tell is that the stock does a leap and then something de-rails. Then I think, I thought I had checked that bit.
Hey great comment done. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the channel mate. Regards Charlie
interesting idea those Helix {s} Unfortunatly I dont have room for one never mind two. still another good viseo to help us all
Thanks John, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, and Happy New year.
I have been looking at building a Helix and therefore I have been reviewing you previous videos regarding their construction. Thank you for the guidance and advice you have offer in your videos. However, the link to the Geometry Spreadsheet appears not to work. Can I ask that you reset the link please?
Looking forward to your future videos.
Here's the link.
If it doesn't work, please email me at chadwickmodelrailway @ gmail.com, and I'll email it to you.
Regards Chartlie
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/19aUoZArIjXsRBv1ps3yPyrqztayCOt2r/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=101315420304868521884&rtpof=true&sd=true
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thank you Charlie, it works a treat.
Another fun video, my model railroad professor! As for the cost of a helix, I had wonderful success with just 3/8" thick plywood, spacers and simple flex track. Cost about $30!
I’m so pleased that you found a less expensive alternative.
Regards Charlie.
I've used screws like that for track laying for ages, even in scenic areas. It allows track changes to be so easy while in the testing stage. Then when all testing is done, then its time to ballast and that glues the track down. Just leave a gap around the screws, when its all dry, remove screws and back fill with ballast. I know you like glueing your track down but believe me, using these typer of screws is the way to go for track laying
That sounds like a good move.
However, I use the smaller screws for my scenic area until the testing is complete. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway yes, not sure of the size of the screws you have used but you do have to make sure they don't have too big a screwhead with kadees
Maybe someone has made a 3d printer file to print rerailers that can be installed into existing track.
We shall await someone’s comment Roy with our fingers crossed.
Regards Charlie
You know how much I enjoy your work Charlie, but this week I feel Cheated. And my problem is gauging the height at which each support is to be installed. 12 minutes in you mentioned a jig, but I must have missed it. 25 minutes in you showed 7/8 of a a circuit to test the incline and sent your HST up to prove it could. You had a baulk of 3x2 or similar to stop it running off the end and my eyes lit up, but by minute 29 after showing the amazing swift nut device and how nut is followed by washer by base plate and guide and washer and nut you had it all laid and by 30 it was done - NEVER once showing a ruler to ensure the individual rise was A) correct and B) consistent. I have no doubt you used a ruler to establish the first circuit, measuring from the base and according to your height table. But once the slope was established I would have used the aforementioned piece of 3x2 trimmed as required to provide the 3.37 inch headroom at each support. Trimmed to allow for the depth of the baseplate and sound absorber if you placed it between the already laid tracks, or if you put it on top of the track it would be track depth shallower, but could go almost to each upright. That way you could wiz your swift nut down to the indicated level add the washer and base plate and only need a turn or half a turn with the spanner for fine tuning. 8 of these height indicators, taking the first one out when you have used the 8th would get you round. You would only need one confirmatory measurement to the base board as you finish each circuit, and so would not have been out at the end.
Incidentally I notice that the spreadsheet calculation were in metric for the radius of the track and its length, but inches for the rise, i.e. 3.37in which in metric would have given you a much easier to measure 86 mm. I am older than you and still love my feet and inches, but when it comes to fine judgements I think 86mm would be much easier to establish than 3.37inches which if you were true to imperial would not be a decimal but 3 3/8ths. So, any chance of an addendum in one of your next videos to show (or explain) the measurements you made as you went up. I have just read through all the comments to date and have not seen this mentioned once, but to me it was crucial to the whole construction. Best wishes, and don't tire yourself out in this heat, Roger
You make a fair point Roger. But I really didn’t think it was necessary to show the close-ups of me making a measurement.However, yes I did forget to make a jig and I usually get one laser cut for me, the right size. However having the need to get this one up and running I chose to do without one. Please forgive me, regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Of course I forgive you, Charlie. But what a lot of work it must have been to to get 8 supports the right height on 4 circuits, a lot of jiggling and guestimates by eye. However, I still think that having omitted this important element in the construction video, and I do appreciate your time constraints, but it warrants an addendum in one of
your next issues just to mention either one measurement process of the 32 above, or the benefit of a jig.
When you are making your videos, and it would be interesting to know how many subscribers you now have, but they are all potentially looking to you to show them how to do things.You repeated the cost warnings and new fish plate benefits several times, so you know people look to you so that they get it right.
Lecture over, thank you for all that you do do, kind regards, Roger
No DCC Concepts powerbase under the track this time Charlie?
No not this time, the steam engines that struggle can use the other Helix. Regards Charlie
Superb delivery of assembling the second helix, a lot of work, made a lot easier by having the right tools and plenty of experience. A very enjoyable video, this is a massive move forward for your layout Charlie, well done to you and to all who have given advice and ideas, plus to Lee who has done a fantastic job, what a clever spreadsheet.
Thanks David, I’m so pleased you found it interesting. We have to remember that it’s teamwork, that makes the dream work. Regards Charlie
Great video,. Good advice. I have a question about flex track. I have acquired some old flex track from a set up that was pulled down. I've tried soaking it in a bath of Wark water to try and free up the PVA glue used for ballast to try and free it up so I can reuse it, flex it to my own use. It didn't work well. Does anyone here have an idea of how I can free it up,. Or am I just waiting my time
If it’s PVA Russ, hot water will disperse it. Please make sure that this track is nickel and not steel. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks
Charlie you're patience is boundless thanks very much, a most enjoyable and informative episode.
thank you..
That’s very kind of you to say so Davey. Regards Charlie
~2:24 do I see a kink on the right straight line towards the helix where the rail tracks join or just an illusion?
You’re right, and I will sort it out. Regards Charlie
I have watch 🥳 🥂 12 hours of Chadwick videos today. I am now ready to divorce Charlie and his Tshirts 😂😂😂😂😂
Have you slept yet BoomBox? Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway No not really. I learn from you so to help with new job at Hornby
I’m never, ever, going to build one of those things….but watched enthralled by the combination of, design, geometry and engineering. Thank you for an entertaining evening. I do have inclines, and use a free App on my smart phone to measure gradients. Probably not quite as good as your digital spirit level, but it’s free and does the job. The one I use is called iHandy Level.
If it works for you Peter then fair enough, that’s all that really matters. Regards Charlie
Mr bishop I like to see this details of Microsoft Excel work from you
Hi Tom the link is at the bottom of the show more tab. Regards Charlie
Daniel’s my favourite, much better than the bald dad character, I preferred him when he was the window cleaner in Brookside. He had the scouse accent nailed 👌🏻
Sadly, Richard, I have no idea which programs you’re talking about. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Hi Charlie, totally unrelated comment! I don’t know how it ended up here 🤦🏼♂️ possibly one of the more obscure comments you’ve received… keep up the good work Charlie, love your video’s, great help to a newbie. Me and the wife spotted you at Alexandra Palace but decided to leave you be….
Hi Charlie, enjoying your videos as usual but when you point to the corner of the screen and say "I'll leave a link here " nothing shows up on my screen. I cannot find anything in settings to correct this. Can you help please?
It's because your device is not compatable with RUclips.
Computers are best for links etc,
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks Charlie. Keep up the good work
Do like your helix and the nut runner gadget Charlie thankyou for the video
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Mark. Regards Charlie
My Wife ask me today would I choose to save her or my model railway in a disaster. I choose my Trains 🚂 She not come back home yet from shopping this morning. 😬
She might not be coming back!
@@ChadwickModelRailway she came back said she couldn't believe that I save a train 🚂 before her. Who said anything about one train I meant the whole lot 😂😂😂
Hi Charlie - could relate to everything you were saying re the Helix. As someone who has built two for my own layout I could relate to everything you said. As with OO my N Gauge helix was that expensive - it's the track ! As I have 8 turns to drop around 15" I used 70 odd 3rd and 4th.radius set track units. Just sourcing them was a job and a half. Ended up buying from a number of outlets across the UK. Spot on with testing as well - every circle laid and I ran my 7 car HST up to check everything worked. I really should send you a picture of the "beasts". Cheers Euan
What a great comment Ewan. I’m so pleased you’ve had similar success, it isn’t by luck mate. Regards Charlie
Hey Charlie, you promised us "a lovely layout in two weeks time". But all we have is radio silence. I do hope you are OK...
Sorry Timothy, there was a complication with the narration with an edit request.
Working away for 2 weeks blew my planning.
Rest assured that it will be out at the end of the week.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks Charlie. Glad to know nothing serious has happened.
My partner said I spend more time with Charlie these days then I do her. That's true but I can't unfortunately I cant pause her when I like.
Oh dear boombox, let’s hope she doesn’t see your comments. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway let's hope she does then I can convert the room her dogs currently occupies
could you not use 2 of the threaded bars as a power bus to each level of the helix ?
Yes Andrew, it has been suggested that the return feed could all be connected to the rods. Regards, Charlie
Is it not possible to use/adapt the metal support rods for track feeds?
Yes it is Mike, but it’s something that I have avoided I must confess. Regards Charlie
Will today announcement of a looming recession make the channel hard to continue. I know it's not much but I join the patreon today to help you out . All the best
Thanks BoomBox, I will do my very best to continue. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I am sure your wife can sell her belongings to help buy that next piece of track.
Not seen you this fortnight Charlie, all ok I hope?
Just wait one more day G 130.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, What is the re-railer product you mention when showing the five way helix?
It’s a Hornby re-Railer. R620.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway thank you Charlie and keep the bloopers and comments going your channel is a great stress relief in tough times
Great stuff, Charlie, what a good job. It strikes me that assuming the vertical heights between levels are constant at every vertical bar, couldn't you use tubes of the appropriate length as spacers and secure the tops only with nuts to avoid all that nut twiddling?
Yes you’re dead right John, using a jig does make things somewhat easier. However, I won’t be tightening up those nuts until I get trains running constantly in a satisfactory condition on the inclines. Regards Charlie
Excellent as always Charlie! When you had the HST on the first loop I was willing you to try reversing it off again to see if it would work - but you didn't! (not on camera anyway!). Would it have worked? On re-railers I had something like that with my Tri-Ang set back in the 1960s although that was a long thin plastic thing that you slide a coach down onto a rail - come to think about it, that was actually called a "Railer" not a re-railer. I just checked and it was called a T-251 Railer and as you might expect, there are some used 1960s ones STILL for sale on eBay!! What an age we live in. Thanks again.
Great comment Alan. Yes, rest assured the HST did reverse out perfectly back into the Findlay yard. The Railer is made by Hornby and it is a R620. Regards Charlie
Insight and experience are valuable commodities and you’ve clearly learnt a lot from Helix 1! 😉 Tidy job all round. I have only just been going over the videos of the last few weeks so obviously I didn’t offer any suggestions. But was there s reason the point that split the track onto the return loop and the outer (upward) helix track couldn’t have been moved say 18” further back, thus allowing greater flexibility in the approach? 🤔
As it is I rather like the solution with the more gentle curve on approach which is actually perhaps a better solution anyway 😄
You have certainly been putting in the hours Charlie! You have almost made railway modelling into an endurance event! 😉
Cheers mate, great fun as ever 👍🍀🍻
Thanks Tim, I’m so pleased that you have enjoyed my latest build.
Regards Charlie
The Dos and Don'ts of Building a Helix
Chapter One - Don't
Epilogue
;-) I have to hand it to you, Charlie. You've built two fairly tall helices to date, and you still like model railroading. Good show!
For layouts with wide temperature variances & debilitating summer heat, I think heating an entire room for hours in winter with high wattage plug-in heaters (& working in your skivvies😶) is pretty expensive. I should think a couple used or cheap electric blankets would be better - one to fold over track sections, and another to warm the work area. Heating only what's needed should be far less expensive when it's not subarctic out.
An interesting option Frank, and one I hadn’t thought about. Regards Charlie
Outstanding Video once again, Charlie.
Always keep an eye out for sales on clamps at the B&Q (or one's local version of a Home Improvement Store). Squeeze, spring, every possible clamp will, occasionally go on sale. f course, one winds up needing bodge up a fixture to hold one's dozens of clamps, but that is a necessary "evil."
Another spiffy item one might want is a battery-driven Right Angle Ratchet--these are often available for cheap at Harbor Freight (or the local equivalent).
Digital levels are a marvel, I have been through several, as they are required for checking on Architectural Barriers in new Construction. You want to keep them at "room temperature" as much as possible, lest the batteries corrode unexpectedly (ask me how I know).
Battery driven right angle wrench, now there’s a thought, regards Charlie
Chadwick is an English of Anglo-Saxon origin meaning “town or village of Chad”;and originates in the parish of Rochdale where the family was given land in the township by William the Conqueror. Is this why you name Chadwick Railway
Not at all boombox.
It was just a nickname her friend had for me! Regards Charlie
Very enjoyable to watch and great result achieved.
Like the way you were able to smooth out the S bend, top tip from your friend there!!. That nut spinner must have been a god send. Worth mentioning the caps as well they will surely stop a painful bump when building.
Those screws look just the job, they may get in the way though, if you decide to convert to Dublo 3 rail😆😆😆
Good luck from Spain!!
I’m so pleased that you found it enjoyable David. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie my 12 x 6 layout is nearly complete and I put droppers on every piece of track (overkill yes) BUT I had 2 suspension bridges so droppers like your helix would look messy. I soldered bridging links on the rails just outside the fishplates just to be safe. Yes you can see them if you look but better than searching for bad fishplate connections later. Watch all your vids Brilliant Thanks
I’m so pleased that you joyed it Clive. I do hope that your bridges look nice. Regards Charlie
Might be worth highlighting that the glue you use is the wood glue from Gorilla Glue. Ordinary (the original) Gorilla Glue is a glue that foams and expands when it sets. The bottles look pretty much the same, so easy to make a mistake if you don't know. But using the wrong one would be a disaster for someone wanting a nice flat track bed! Anyway, I bet your glad that the second beast is built at last, certainly a lot of repetitive but crucial work involved in putting one together of that size. Wow, you have certainly broken the back of the majority of the track work, and it's coming together very nicely.
Yes you’re right, it’s been a long journey. However the light is at the end of the tunnel!
Bold move drilling the holes for the rods freehand. If I was to try, the holes would all be on the piss.
We have to take risks mate, life would be boring if we didn’t! Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway 😂
One of my reverse loops has an S curve which has no straight pieces in and its curves are each at 90 degrees 2nd radius. I don't have any problems with any of my rolling stock. I can only assume that it is because I use a method of weighing everything to scale length If a wagon is 80 mm long then it has to weigh 40g, if its 60mm long then it has to weigh 30g. I use the same scaling for my coaches as well. I know you also use a weight to length ratio so don't understand it.
I am not saying this is, my cure, but is the only explanation I can come up with. Unless it has something to do with the code 75 fine scale, but I can't see that being the answer.
As per your comment on expansion contraction of track, I have found that in winter I get gaps of 4 mm between 1 yard track sections at each joint in winter and no gap in summer. I tend to lay my track at 22 Deg C and leave about 2 mm of gap between joints when constructing. I have a layout in the loft. I have W joists every 2 ft so do all of my construction downstairs in sections and take it to the loft for assembly.
You’re weighting down of the wagons Sam, is the answer.One only has to put a few light wagons at the front of the train heavy ones of the back and carnage will occur. Regards Charlie
Really impressive Charlie, better you than me, no room, no money and only basic tech knowledge, I wouldn't stand a chance of getting it together and even less of getting it to work. But, been fun watching you do it twice. I've been working on a siding (just a siding) for over a year, so far I've got a caboose and two box cars. Next up a point and one or two sections of track a stop and minimal land scaping. Being 71 I hope to finish it with time enough left to admirer it on my shelf.
It’s nice to hear that you are making progress midnight riders. Regards Charlie
Crap day at work suddenly brightened up by the realisation it was CMR day! Gloom lifted and good journey home, nosh, cup of tea and settled down to watch. Such a good and interesting vid Charlie showing all the warts and pitfalls. So, my Friday was put back on track by CMR! also known as the perfect re-railer.
Thanks Charlie. Looking forward to the next...
What a fabulous heartwarming comment Will. You’ve really cheered me up. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, A very enjoyable video, as always!
With my helix build I needed to design a custom build upper level connection to the helix, as noted by Ed at DCC Train Automation, when reviewing my design and quoting me for the helix kit.
I found that the following worked well for me in the Any-rail software.
Using the finalised track plan as the base reference I also tuned ‘on’ the baseboard layers. I then created a new ‘layer’ entitled “Plywood template” and in this layer drew the outline of the two pieces of 6mm ply needed to transition from the helix to the upper level baseboards. I then turned ‘off’ ALL the other layers and printed from the template layer only at scale 1:1 onto A4 sheets, remembering to suppress any ‘empty’ sheets and to include the alignment markers. All that was then needed was to align & stick the active sheets together with clear tape and cutout the printed outlines to transfer the onto my plywood.
To support these pieces I created custom designed bridges, using the DCC Train Automation bridges as my guide for the rounded ends and supported these front edges via the 8mm rods and the rear (square cut) edges on timber strips (28mm in depth) from the wall of the train room.
The accuracy of the Any-rail software is just a joy!
I too have used R4 and R3 Set-Track curves to maximise alignment from the engineering quality of these products, and took the financial hit as you forcast.
You are so right about double checking the vertical alignment of the code 100 rail sections at each joint.
Love the tips and honest ‘warts an all’ in all your excellent presentations.
Good Luck with your on going construction - Happy Modelling, Tony (🚂T)
I’m so pleased I enjoyed the video Tony, and relieved to hear that your Helix turned out well also. Regards Charlie
I'm immensely relieved to hear the training's worked and you've dropped "off of" from your vocal repertoire Charlie! And who said you can't teach an old dog new tricks! :) All tongue in cheek.... Great video as usual.
Kindest regards, Julian from Valebridge Model Railway.
I do my best Julian, and that’s the best we can hope for! Regards Charlie
ANOTHER EXCELENT, Charlie. I have my FANTASY LAYOUT on ANYRAIL as well, could you please pass that Worksheet for the Height of the Helix
Graeme
Hi Graeme, I’ve emailed the SS to you.
Regards Charlie
it says the helix geometry file has been deleted???
I’ve just been into video number 194 and it’s there ready for download. Regards, Charlie
So you don’t have to rely on just the fishplates, (and are a glutten for punishment or just really like soldering) you could solder a small loop of wire between each length of track. This also means you could leave an expansion gap if you are laying track in winter or in cold weather without worrying about continuity between the lengths.
I don’t like the idea of expansion gaps on a helix. Is the tightness of the curves and speeds that worry me. Regards Charlie
Enjoyed your video Charlie and liked thanks for sharing DD.
Glad you enjoyed it MMR, stay safe, regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks Charlie
I will be reducing my intake of Chadwick videos over next few days. Apparently the wife said I call out "Charlie" in my sleep last night 😂
A sensible move BoomBox.
Regards Charlie
Charlie, I understand that UK is having dangerous heat problems. Please be careful. We don't want to lose you.
I live at an elevation of 6800 feet above sea level so I don't get as much heat.
Greetings from Colorado Springs.
Yes it is a bit of a worry Dave, it looks like our higher temperature records will certainly be broken in the next few days. Regards Charlie
as ever, charlie, thanks. i really enjoyed that. i love your new tools. i don't like 'gadgets'. you make good use of them. i see gadgets like people who 'need' the new iPhone. people accuse me of 'gadgets'. i only buy something if my life becomes easier. excuse the rant. see you in a fortnight. now i'm going to watch tony north eastern.
You’re pushing on an open door Kevin. I use an iPhone 6, and a 12 year old Landrover! Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie Wow, Great video, I think this is the 'definative how to' video for building Helices, although I haven't seen your previous ones (114 was it?). The maths part still scrambles my brain but if I ever get round to building a helix, I know where to come now. Thanks again.
It’s just a matter of time Peter, you know you want one! Regards Charlie
Hello, i have been watching your videos for some time and they are always informative. I was looking into building something else and needed some battery packs. Usually this is done with some nickel strip and spotwelding (using even a simple car starter relay and a big car battery works, but there's cheap chinese ones available for the purpose).
Watching you build the helix, i was wondering: instead of soldering wires to the rails would it be possible to spotweld some nickel strip on the bottom of the rails and then put them flat on the surface the rails sit on , you could then spotweld another strip ontop of it so it will go to the nearest M8 rod, which should conduct the DCC signal just fine. To connect it up, the nickelplate can just be put under a nut before tightening them.
If you then connect the inner rods to one pole and the outer to the other, you have one nice clean helix! You could even paint over the nickel strips, totaly hiding the conductive parts making it look even cleaner.
I don't know how practical it is, but perhaps worth checking out?
You make an interesting point, however I think I’ll stick with what I know. Stay safe mate, regards Charlie
Hey Charlie, was listening to you about relying on fish plates for conductivity, why not solder a wire across every join then you won't have the problem, you can do it from the sides of the track, you don't need to drop it through the board. Won't be the prettiest joins but as its on the helix it won't really matter a 50mm wire from 1 section of the track to the next, will ensure conductivity all the way, however because of resistance in the track itself I would put feeds top and bottom, 👍
I take your point Alan but it’s a great deal of more work.
But I tend to do is put a wire across if the continuity is poor. Regards Charlie
Love watching your videos Charlie. I don't have room in my house for a model railway, however I did have one in my childhood and always had derailments probably due to 1st radius curves and curved points, my Flying Scotsman was always derailing and I know why after watching your videos 45 years later.
Many thanks Cheers Doug
But they remain treasured memories Doug. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, track is the killer, nearly 60 metres in my helix but also 4 track. Most enjoyable as usual.
As you say, the price is frightening. Regards Charlie
using a" Digital Spirit Level will keep you on the right" errm ok! Great to see the second helix more or less ready for use. And what a clever thing that Swiftnut device is! Always seem to learn something new in your videos, even if it is not something that I can meke use of on my basic 'round and round' layout,. And re fishplates..... I cand never figure out why they don't always want to conduct Electricity, as they are made from metal, ad as we learned at school metal conducts electricity! Well apart from fishplates it would seem! But that is all part of the "fun" of our hobby! Take care,!
A great comment Mike, and you’re dead right about fish plates. Regards Charlie
Thanks for that Charlie. As a thought, regarding end and start of loop joins so that if (heavan help you) you have to dismantle any of it, instead of using fishplates leave a small gap and maybe solder a wire across them for continuity? Just a thought!
Regards
Terry
No Terry, I couldn’t take the risk. Regards Charlie
A power of work Charlie ,well done . Its has got me thinking of putting in two Helix's as my knees and back are protesting at constant bending down ( Years of climbing and hill walking) . Just wondering if the extreme hot weather is causing any issues with warping of track or electrical problems .Temp in garage today was 38 degrees. Cosy !
Yes high temperatures can be a real nightmare with sheds and attic layouts. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie
Amazing
Way above my ability but still very entertaining. Also as always little tips that can apply to other situations. Have had those fishplate issues myself. I think I remember previous comments on DCC concepts fishplates ?
Are they better?
Thanks again
Look forward to next episode
Howard
Thanks Howard, I shall check out the DCC Concepts fishplates.
Regards Charlie
Fantastic video Charlie. Very well explained. I am quite excited to see the end result now. Thanks for sharing. Roy.
That’s very kind of you to say so Roy, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Very clear excellent video. Did have to look up Youvil though! Looking forward to the next video.cheers.
Thanks Mark, I’m so pleased that you found a video interesting mate. Regards Charlie
Yet another informative and invaluable video Mr Bishop. So .....you have at least 2 friends ....impressive :) I have never used Gorilla Wood Glue because I am an Evostick man but I think it is worth pointing out to viewers that generic Gorilla glue expands upon curing (A bit like expanding foam) and that would obviously disturb the levelling of the helix baseboards. Stay safe mate, see you in due course
Thanks Roger, I never knew about the original gorilla glue. Every day is a school day with us. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I only found out about this because I have a friend who is a joiner....yes...I also have more than one friend ;) Apparently the glue knocks their crafted work out of kilter as it expands and they do not like it. I have seen evidence of this and it is not just an urban myth....As you often say my friend, we live and we learn. Take care Charlie, love to you all x
Have you ever considered install multi screen monitors for back scene then use a program on PC to create live background weather moving clouds.
Sorry but the expense would be too great. Regards Charlie
love the idea of re railers. but cant seem to be able to find them anywhere. can you advise?
Hi Darren, you need to google Hornby R620. Regards Charlie
They are sold as level crossings.
Built my two with kits which came with pillars at the right height to clear my steamers. Used radius 3 for inner circuit and flex track for outer and added droppers to each individual track. Droppers came down the pillars on the inside and terminated in multi terminal bus bars that are fed from the main DCC buses. Used the same 5mm sub-bed as yourself and compensated the height with washers at the top of each pillar. The one thing that I would recommend is that the flex track joints are soldered prior to curving otherwise it is possible to introduce kinks in the outer circuit. As you said Charlie the superstructure was not too costly but the track costs a bomb! Great video as usual - keep 'em coming.
We sing from the same song sheet Peter, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie
Could you make a fill yard just to store more trains in the middle of the helix. Was just a thought. Seemed a waste of space that could be used. Maybe coz of the height of the first rise of the helix it might not be high enough
Hi CGT, my thought process works that the Helix is the stacking system so as one train makes its way up the Helix another one follows and similarly on the way down. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Hi Charlie yeah I understand. Just thought of the space on the base board you could have had a few tracks as storage. Coming off the main line before it hits the helix. Was just a thought coz of the base board of the inner circle of the helix. Anyway will look forward to the next upload. Have a fab weekend
@@colonelga-taffy6753 the geometry will get you. if you wanted siding tracks branching off the main line to get into the inside of the helix those tracks would need to have clearance above them (otherwise traffic in the siding would hit it's head where the next lap of the helix passes over). So the first lap of the helix would have to rise more quickly so that it reaches the clearance height earlier than it needs to if just trying to clear the mainline on the lower level.
Interesting as ever, Charlie. I wouldn't have the skill, patience, or inclination to build a helix. I did stay awake right to the end of your video though - honest. Good tip about checking fishplates are connected properly and using those largish screws to avoid sleeper deformation.
I see you plan to have a TMD above said helix. I was at Whatley yesterday and the depot there is very modelable.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Peter and thanks for the TMD tip. Regards Charlie
I used one outer and one inner rod as vertical conductor. And instead of using so many nuts I use tubes over the rod. Only for the first turn the tubes have different length. Once the incline is fixed all tubes can be precut to the same length. I still use the washers to protect the tubes from pinching the wood. The thickness of the washers should match the thickness of the crimping ring for the electrical connection of the rod. The stability comes at the end when the top nuts are tightened.
A fantastic innovation Juri.
Regards Charlie.
Hi Charlie. Another great presentation. Having been thru the task of helix building myself some years back I started by working things out with a 'Helix Calculator'. I could not find one at the time so had to write my own program. To cut the story short my humble advice is to start this way and fiddle about until it fits ones requirements by using a 'Helix Calculator' of some sort.
Yes sound advice mate, regards Charlie
Thanks, Charlie. For me, your Lessons Learned from the first helix were especially valuable. Gotta love that Swiftnut :) Cheers from MD USA. Peter
Thanks Peter, I’m so pleased that you found the lessons that I have learnt, interesting.
Take care mate, regards Charlie
Amazing Charlie..that was very enjoyable..thank you. You always explain everything that even I can understand. Take care..all the best.
Thanks Tim, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting mate. Regards Charlie