Use smart plugs + Octoprint to improve your 3D printing
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- Опубликовано: 11 янв 2025
- I had a request for a home automation video for makers but I didn't really get going until Google sent me a free Nest Mini (nothing to do with this channel). Since then, I've added smart bulbs and plugs around the house to make life easier. Recently, I've added a Nest camera and smoke alarm to safeguard my studio.
In this video, we look at how to install and setup a wifi smart plug, connect it with Google Home or Amazon Alexa, and control it with a free Octoprint plugin to make our 3D printers cheaper to run and safer.
Purchase the smart products seen in this video:
HS100 model as featured: amzn.to/2VG9If7
HS110 adds power monitoring: amzn.to/2y5ZvPU
Google Nest Protect (smoke alarm): amzn.to/3cVvz7R
Google Nest camera: amzn.to/2S8t1v9
YP-Link smart plug plugin: plugins.octopr...
3D printer USB power blocker: www.thingivers...
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Thanks for the detailed explanation of the settings in my plugin, I'm the author of TPLinkSmartplug.
Jim Neill is there a way to use it with the printer powering the pi?
@@Valgrind850 Yes, with a combination of the system commands options and timer option. You set your Run System Command Before Off to "sudo shutdown" with a short delay and then enable the Timer option and set the delay there for a time period later that gives the pi enough time to cleanly shut down. The plugin will offload the off command to the plug using Kasa's built in timers for the period you set, and then the pi shutsdown before that timer runs out.
Jim can you check my comment below I’m having a problem after plug-in was installed, I have the green lightning bolt when I click it it turns off power and keeps spinning one can’t turn back on?
@@facitenonvictimarum Don't be mean.
@@facitenonvictimarum Both the plugin and octoprint are free, and if you don't like TPLink there's plenty other options with available plugins. But I guess you are too dumb to realize that.
Hah! I watch all episodes of Teaching Tech. Was surprised and excited to find my USB power blocker thingiverse model here. 👍 Thanks for the mention and thanks for the interesting show!
which usb is this for? the usb A plugged into the raspberry pi, that is then plugged into the ender's micro usb?
Yes, for the USB A. To avoid that the raspberry pi tries to power the enders control board over USB. For that connection it's better to only have the data lines.
I set this up recently and it's made printing a breeze. As long as I am diligent about leaving it ready to print, I can just click a button on my phone and go. It's awesome.
One potential use for the the smart plug is to use as a power meter (model specific), in case you’re concerned over power usage.
I ended up getting one in part because someone was concerned/blaming about power usage.
I've had smart plugs installed for years, and used my surveillance cameras and Alexa app to control things remotely prior to Octoprint. This setup here worked great for me using the plugs that I have already been using. Thanks for making this video.
Brilliant Michael. Installed and working fine thanks to your clear directions and me finding my dumb initial set up. So easy to have it turn off in the middle of the night now rather than having to worry about it running on idle.
Thanks - great detailed set up guide - an unexpected benefit to the these Smart Plugs is that they are compatible with Smartthings, so i was able to integrate it with my wall tablets and action tiles!
In order to make it even more useful I downloaded the portlister Octoprint Plugin so that when I turn it on from Smartthings or using voice control it also connects the printer to Octoprint. This is very helpful as i usually print direct from Cura which doesn't have the ability to wake up the printer.I also used and an extension lead to add a light onto the Smart Plugs so my camera can see my prints better. Thanks
Thanks for this. I wandered into JB and saw these exact things on the shelf. As I had watched your video I bought a two pack and set them up to my Google Nest. Setup the plugin in Octoprint to your instructions and worked perfectly.
Awesome! I have these smartplugs all over my house and had a couple extras not in use. So now I've got it set up on my printer. Thanks! I disabled it in Alexa though. Don't want someone (or the TV) to accidentally tell my Alexa to turn off the 3d printer in the middle of a print.
Great guide Michael. I've been using smart home stuff for over 2 years and considered something similar. I wend with ESP8266 with Tasmota to control each printers power with the OctoPrint GUI. It's been working perfectly for well over a year.
Why didn't I add it to my smart home setup I hear you ask ... One wrong word from the wife and a multi hour print would be done for :-(
if you just want to shut off your printer when it's done, you can mount a toggle switch to the front of your printer that gets switched off by the bed as it moves all the way forward when the print is done. you just need to add a delay to the g-code before presenting the print to give the hot end time to cool.
Nice timing. I added a TP Link plug to the mix only a couple of days ago, haha. Great improvement in power management (I can finally see actual power consumption of my 3D printer) and the extra safety layer is just so worth it! Now I can leave the house knowing that if there indeed is a thermal runaway or another critical error, the whole thing just shuts down and that's it!
i also have the tp-link plugin in use for a longer time and i can tell you its worth it. not only it can make your printer safer, you can also add a gcode command to your end-gcode to switch you printer off automatically when it has finished printing.
You don't even need to add that gcode. I have it set to turn off when idle for 10 minutes - gives the printer time to cool down with the fans still on.
That's actually quite nice feature to get.
Outstanding.
That's awesome, I didn't know that someone made a TP-Link plugin for Octoprint. I've been doing this crudely by setting a turn off timer in the Kasa app based on the ETA of the print, but this will makes things so much better and safer. Thanks for sharing!
I’ve been using these for this purpose for a year now. The only way to go.
Awsome vid thanks my printer is now safer then before, as I have not updated the frimware from new as I cant take the risk. I am unable afford to buy another printer.
Keep the good work you are doing to enlighten us all the these kinds of hints and tricks for 3d printing.
Cheer mate. This was excellent. Just finished setting it up.
Thanks Michael! that worked perfectly! I have Alexa and was able to use the TP-link Kasa app to turn off/on the printer remotely, now with octoprint works even better!
Ha! I have this exact setup. Have been speaking with the developer of the plugin to get some finer upgrades added.
Ive been doing this for over 3 years. Works well had saves me a trip to the printer. Also I found just saying "Hey Google turn on the Printer" works alot better just leave out the 3d. Exe
Perhaps putting your printers on a fire rated surface (ex. cement board such as "Durock"), as well as behind the printers can help keep fire damage to a minimum, and give the fire brigade more time to get to your workshop. I had another brand that I was going to use to shut power, but glad you reviewed using the TP Link vice cutting and modifying (although I am capable enough) along with the OctoPi settings.
@Teaching Tech I've seen some others mention these, and I finally got my new Ender 3 Pro so I've been looking at OctoPi... there is a Home Assistant plugin in both to get them talking to each other, then Node Red talking to HA, and your TPlink plugs could easily be set up not only to alert you, but shut off the printer and (if the alarm smoke alarm went off) alert the emergency line for you // ask if you want to... all depends on your creativity. like another said elsewhere the rabbit hole goes pretty deep...
Thank you for this excellent explanation. Just got mine up and running.
In octoprint? I thought the plug in didn't work anymore?
Oh Michael...careful what you get yourself into. Home Assistant can add a whole new level of home monitoring, automation, notifications, etc etc...but it is quite the rabbit hole to go down. It would however be very much up your alley.
Very nice, what an easy and clever way to make it safer and more easy, thanks for this tip!
Michael: "Google, turn on the 3D printer"
My Google Home: "Sorry I didn't understand"
Yeah all of my Google homes consistently get dumber by the day.
@@substratum3d Pro Tip, don't call your 3D printer "3D Printer". If you do, God forbid this video gets in auto play rotation and Michael turns off your printer, while you are 80% done with a multi-day print. :) The funny thing is I just implemented this mod in the past half hour. Had a WEMO laying around and it was a similar setup with a different plugin. Granted I had to use some kapton tape to tape over the 5v on the USB cord. Edit: Oops looks like he said turn on not off :) Glad he picked his words wisely. Doing to many things at once.
@@SolarityTechnology LOL mine did too
Google Home : oh, 3d printer you're so sexy, you have such a *big* processor.
ive had a setup like this for a while. but i did it a bit differently. i have 2 printers that i have on separate surge protectors with my printer, octoprint, leds lights for viewing the printer, and a wyze cam. so when i turn on the smart plug from my phone or via voice command it powers the power strip and turns everything on. with the Wyze cam they are $25 on amazon and i designed a mount that goes on the printers using a clip on the x axis instead of removing parts to add this functionality. so i can view the printers independently and turn them off independently. the cost to do this was very minimal under 35 per printer and i feel very safe with it.
I thought this would be possible. Thanks so much for working out the details!!
Not sure about other county's plugs, but Kasa does also make a smart power strip where you can assign individual plugs within the strip.
I'm not a fan of Creality but this channel must be one of the most useful and informative ones out there! Kudos on a great job, bud!!
hahaha when you said 'hey google' you triggered 3 of my devices simultaneously.
Anyways love your videos. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Micheal,very nice find! They are going for $9.99 usd on amazon, careful though they are trying to get $29.99 for a two pack. Ordered 3 single packs, no more flipping a switch or un-plugging my raspberry pi. 😂Also only the 5v on the usb cable needs a small strip of tape, from the top where you can see the pins, last one on the right.
Yes, the tape was the easiest method for powering down the Ender - 3. Much easier then printing out that flimsy usb-power-blocker
Without taking away anything from Michael's setup, my needs are very much simpler...
Because I don't use my 3d printer 'all the time' I keep it covered, so firstly I need to remove its cover and check the filament. I find that the filament does not like being left in the extruder, degrades and breaks easily. Because of that, I always have some filament 'setup' to do before any printing.
Also, I don't leave the printer running. There is a smoke detector, close by, dedicated to the printer and someone is always in the vicinity. (I use Octoprint but don't need to monitor and control the printer beyond the home perimeter.)
I was thinking of running the printer and Raspberry Pi off a remote switch (yes, the kind with a manual remote control) which I have a few of, but even that is hard to justify. As I mentioned, I have filament setup to do, so really the remote switch would only be useful for shutting it off. But I like peeling off the print after it's cooled down anyway... So turning off the printer is not a problem either. Also, once the print is done and the printer is idle, the safety and power consumption issues are minimal.
Again, not taking anything away from Michael's set up. It's certainly very useful information for anyone with similar needs.
I also keep Google (and friends) out of my life wherever possible.
Making my first comment because I need to say this on record. You are a Genius.
I'm just the messenger. The real MVPs are the creators of Octoprint and the plugins. Show them some love.
You can also do this with Tasmota flashed devices like Sonoffs
I use Blitzwolf SHP7 Plugs (Europe) flashed with Tasmota controlled by Octoprint. Works realy great and second nice to have: Octoprint logs the power consumption of the 3d-printer
Or tuya devices w/ TuyaConvert2 if they have the esp chip. Some newer models don't sadly.
Too bad the Tasmota plugin doesn't have the turn off on idle like this TP-link plugin does. I would definitely make use of that feature.
@@CJICantLie There's an update that lets you do that now. The author of the plugin just got that added and it works perfectly
Just that extra lay of safety against burning the house down really. Like of course, like all of us should, i have thermal runaway in marlin on, and external high power mosfets but theres always that unlikely event that the mosfet could fail and when they do, they usually fail in a "closed" position, where's no amount of software control will be able to stop it heating. So a higher safety net such as this, that can just cut all power to any heating elements regardless of failures down the line should a hotend for instance go off the scale, is a must imo. With how cheap smart plugs are, its just a no brainer.
Now i guess we just need remote disconnection of entire power circuit incase the smart plug happens to fail on lmao :P
Funny story, my print just finished thank god! i already had this set up but jumped in here to see how you had done it to see if there was anything i could improve on.. well as soon as you said hey google turn the 3d printer on, My google lit up and i was like NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO and sure enough it understood turn the 3d printer off... luckily my print had just finished like 1 minute before i clicked on this vid...
This I s really good. You should expand on this video showing a cheap setup maybe in the form of an enclosure that utilizes a cheap WiFi can such as the Wyze cam in addition to a smart plug and any other features (smoke detector) and try to not use octoprint
That ftdi from a few videos ago is very handy with home automation if you didnt see my comment from last time. A lot of these devices have esp8266 chips in them and can be modded with the programmer.
Sadly, a lot of the tuya models are starting to use non-esp chips. Have to be careful in purchasing.
Thanks for the heads up, might need to do some research and see if I can score a few extras just in case.
I have just made the video on raspberry on my channel and i reviewed smart plugs... So the next video will be on raspberry with relè and psu control or smart plug!! You beat me on time!! Great video! 👍
Thank you for the video.i orderd the smart plugs right after the video👍
Well done. So I published a note in OctoPrint forum.
Thanks for the video. Keep safe and stay well.
4:05 I'd really suggest you separate your Pi power to its own switch. Quickest way to kill a Pi's SD card is to power off before a shutdown command.
I think you "ticked all the boxes" for the method you presented other than splitting the Pi power to a separate switch. There are dual relay smart switches available and I use one on mine.
I'm glad to see the plugin doesn't use the cloud to control the switch.
I've been running Home Assistant for my smart-ish home devices for several years now. It's a bit of tinkery, but then so are these printers. I flash all my connected devices w/ Tasmota firmware which cuts the link to the cloud completely. DigiblurDIY and DrZzs are my go-to guys for smart home setup. The former has a no-cloud philosophy while the latter has a mix of voice assistants.
I agree on the pi power. So far I have had the two power bank plugs permanently on. I only intend to cut the power in case of emergency in which case the pi image is of little concern. I'm reading Tasmota a lot in the comments, I will have to look it up.
Teaching Tech lookup Tasmotiser when you do. So easy.
The problem with these smart plugs is that they need internet connection in order to work, because they can only receive commands from a 3rd party cloud server. The only alternative that fixes this I know of is a Sonoff smart plug with a custom Tasmota firmare. The voice control from Google/Alexa is still possible via IFTTT and you can turn it on or off via browser or Octoprint without any internet connection as long as the intranet is fine.
The plugin seems to use a local path so the router is the weak link in that path.
Generalization and not absolute truth. Ie. Philips Hue works locally with its own hub.
As author of the TPLinkSmartplug plugin I can confirm that it does not require to be connected to the internet and functions completely in Local mode. You may not be be able to get the Google Home/Alexa integration without it though.
I have 2 printers running off one Raspberry Pi. I had always used the GCODE Scripts in the Octoprint settings to send the M81 command. Only 1 printer is currently hooked up to a TP Link.
Tried changing some of the TP Link settings as per your video and started a print. Both printers stopped during the first layer and the one not connected to the TP Link was stopped where it was starting to burn the filament the nozzle was touching as the bed and extruder were still at temperature. I decided to turn the printer off, waited several seconds, and then turned it back on. It indicated thermal runaway protection on the LCD screen. I have never seen this happen before, so have to guess it's related to changing those TP Link settings. This would all be fine if you just had one printer hooked up to the Pi, but when you have 2 I guess the plugins are shared for both printers so you have to be careful. After reverting the settings back to the way they were before I was able to start a print on both machines and it's working normally again.
Just a gotcha on disabling the USB-A power. I have a FYSETC F6 board on my Ender 3 and the USB (CH340 Chip) is powered off the USBVCC (5V) rail from the Pi.When power is applied to the Ender 3 a MOSFET on the F6 board disconnects the USBVCC from all circuitry EXCEPT the CH340 USB control chip and the board 5V supply takes over. Using the USB power blocker then prevents data communication between the Pi and the Ender 3 controller. I suspect this is a unique FYSETC design "feature". Ideally the USB CH340 chip should be powered off the F6 5V rail not the USBVCC- :-(
Thanks a lot, I liked that USB solution, I was searching for a cable on/off button to disconnect this Vcc of the USB Thank you! I just have one question please, if the M80 and M81 are GCodes, so I understand that they will be sent to the printer itself, why do I need to write the IP address as an argument for one of them? or why do I need these GCodes at all if I am controlling the power using the smart plug?
Kitchen fire extinguishers are also handy, good that an automatic system puts out a fire rather than the 10-15min it might take to call a fire brigade
Smart plugs seem handy, I am a bit more inclined to invest in a solid state relay which is typically beefier than than those arduino relays and cost about $3-4, half the price of a smart plug. Mostly because having a couple hundred wifi signals dedicated to just smart plugs seems over complicated
... and just like that, you turned on my 3D printer via google 😅
I turned on mine several times as I was editing :)
Maybe next time edit it in such a way as to not trigger everyones voice assistants :)
Jon it’s funny though
I solved it like this. The Raspberry gets its power from the printer's power supply. Before the power supply is a Wifi power switch with Tasmota software.
The only way to turn it on is with the Tasmota switch. For this I can use webintface or mqtt.
The Raspi can turn off the Tasmota switch on command, with a 1 minute delay. At the same time, the Raspi is shut down in software.
When the Tasmota switch is off, that's the only standby power.
And the Tasmota switch is still able to measure the wattage.
As always great work!
Hi. Used this video to set up. Works well. Almost too well as I just had a power off mid print while testing. Got a hunch the camera didn't pick up on small movements. Any idea how much of a movement is needed to be classed as moving and not idle?
Hey Michael, love your work!
I know this particular video is over 2 years old now but I need some advice.
TP-Link have a new range of Smart Devices called Tapo. In particular I am using the Mini Smart Wifi Socket P100.
I have it integrated within Octoprint and it can switch the Ender3v2 on and off.
They can shutdown on idle and via gcode commands, but after hours of searching around the forums, I can't seem to find any info on how to setup the shutdown on thermal runaway.
Any help would be great. Cheers.
You made my Google go nuts
thank you very much for your video. I already did it but for some reason when I first start the reaspberry and then start the printer it gives me an error TMC motors or something like that. That has always happened to me so I first turn on the printer and then turn on the raspberry (without this plugin)
This is amazing! I´m in the process of building the Lack enclosure for my ender 3 and I have an skr mini e3 to soon install as well. I originally wanted to go the route of the relay board but this is way better and easier. One thing that I need to work out though is the led strip. I wanted to connect the 12V led strip to the power supply of the printer and turn it on and off via a raspberry pi script that can be embedded in octoprint. But that wouldn´t work now if the plug shuts the power to the printer completely. I need an independent electricity source for the leds if I wanted them to turn on and off without the printer always being on, right? 🤔
A bit random, but it's always interesting when someone in a different region, says something different, such as here in the US saying fire department or firefighter, while other regions say something like fire brigade.
I know the meaning is still there, but it's something that always catches my attention.
My patrons recently pointed out that google assistant had an Aussie accent. I was of course oblivious to this.
Love, love, looove it. More home automation please :-)
You can use home assistant to automatically switch off your 3d printer if the smoke alarm turns on.
It probably wouldn't be too difficult to create an octoprint plugin that does this as well.
While a good addition, the main purpose of this is to prevent the printer from catching smoke in the first place by implementing thermal runway precautions. That's not to say it won't catch fire before reaching those temperatures though.
Good job, Michael. But you did forget to install thermal camera for safety reasons.
I've been doing this for years, however my execution is slightly different. I wrote my own script that works through discord rather than octoprint! That way the small business that I run through discord can view my camera feed in a live manner. Plus, if a print ever fails in a way my printer cant detect (delamination, poor adhesion, etc), I have a group of about 6 people besides myself that can remotely pause the prints, in case I'm away from my phone
That's a cool idea, well done.
I can see that you are very excited about home automation. After watching this video, I can say, with certainty, that I am happy to use the mechanical power switch on the side of the printers that I own. As to safety, I've had about 10 3D printers for about 8 years, and have never, ever had a situation that concerned me. I guess I just don't get why you would spend $100 and hours on this when the alternative is so simple. And, yes, I know that many people have a different take on the situation.
Everything safety related on a 3D printer always goes right until it doesn't.
You can drag the corners on the image crop. You could use all of your picture.
The Arlec smart plugs at Bunnings work with Google assistant as well. Not sure if there's an octoprint plugin though
I was doing this with my 3D printers already but I didn't know about the OctoPrint Plugin for that. Be curious if it works with the brand of smart plugs I am using. I will also have to reconfigure the power for the Pi running Octoprint that is getting powered from the 3D printer power supply. I won't be using Octoprint to turn on the printer again if I took away the Pi power. I also have a spare raspberry pi that is running PiVPN so I can securely get back into my network to get straight into OctoPrint and with my home cameras and the smart switches I would monitor my prints while away from home in case of a printer failure. Great video.
Just got a Resin Printer because I need to make parts that are strong in
all directions. Any chance you would make More Resin 3D Printer Videos.
Topics I would like to see more of are:
1) Comparison of Plant Based,Water Washable, or Eco Resins
2) Comparison of Cleaning Products for the Eco Resins.
3) Comparison of Ultrasonic Cleaners vs Mixing type Cleaners with different cleaning products for the Eco Resins.
4) Curing Time & Hardness with different Wavelengths of Lights. ex.
LED Grow Lights 600nm red / 450nm blue vs the Recommended 405nm violet.
I am working towards more resin videos covering some, but not all of these things.
Good video i have had my wifi plug for nearly 1 year now, i have the HS110 it was like $5 more.
I did a test of a thermal runaway and the wifi plug didn't actually turn the power off its a bit strange i will go over my settings again and test but be sure to acrltually test your setup don't just blindly trust it.
That's a good point. I'd be hesitant to recommend something as a safety feature if it hasn't been tested/proven in the video.
nice, i've been looking for this
excellent guide, congratulations
How do you shut down the pi BEFORE the socket switches off after cooling? Mine is powered from the PSU (really good three socket USB xt60 hub, loads of power, on a Y adapter for xt60). Has been over a year. I’ve loads of these TS100 plugs, but for anything above just a light, I tend to use wemos d1 mini and a relay board. 4 relays on my last one with tasmota. I have another wemos with a simple LDR light sensor and if it’s a bright day, no lights come on due to motion in smartthings. Endless possibilities lol. I really need to figure how to shut down the pi fully before the power. . And the plugin is ON the pi lol sooo..
So does the smart outlet turn on all your printer and hub of octopis at the same time or does each printer have its own smart outlet?
Hi Michael, another great instructional video 👍 I have just added the plugin to my Octoprint but there are only two options in the config, auto shutdown enabled and wait for time-lapse to render. There are none of the options shown in this video such as thermal runaway settings etc. Do you know if the plug-in has changed since you made this video? Thanks
I use the relay method for a while now. It is the more safer way. If something goes wrong, the Pi crashes, or anything else, the relay loses connection/power and it switches automatically to off. I don't trust Wifi connection enough, or when someone decides to plug the router by accident, or when there is something happening, but the power plug keeps feeding the printer.
Are you absolutely sure about that. Have you actually measured pinouts if board would freeze? You might get exactly opposite situation than you're expecting.
jothain I made sure the printer only stays on as long as the gpio pin is high. If I pull the power from the pi, or I pull the GPIO wire, the printer shuts down directly. (Since the relay falls down to default open state when power to the relay data pin is cut.)
Do you still have to use a buck converter and a relay for powering the pi?
Hi Michael ... I bought a plug and it works fine, thanks. I would like the plug to switch everything off (including the Raspberry Pi). So, The Pi and printer are plugged into a power bar, that is plugged into the smart plug. When I power up the plug, it switches off before the Pi has completed booting (about 30sec). I tried setting the 'Abort power timeout to 5min' but that didn't work. Any ideas on how to get the plug to wait for the Pi to wake up? Thank you again. Derek.
I use something similar, but each device is independent of each other for me. This gives me added security in case raspberry pi crashes.
I would be curious to know if this can be integrated with the spaghetti detector plugin. It would also save wasted filament.
Hi Michael,
could i use one of these to control my Heatgun chamber heater?
How would you set it up?
The main fire issue that I see with 3d printers is when people use them at night, when they are sleeping. I don't think it is sufficient to only have a single point of failure like a smoke alarm. Especially in a case such as yours, you should really have a wall with several hours of fire rating between you and the printers. You can accomplish this pretty easily by just covering the walls with a few layers of type x drywall, it isn't that expensive and it is generally what is spec'd out in commercial applications. Don't even bother taping the joints just screw it right to the wall and overlap each layers joints. It's probably a good idea to clad the wall behind the 3d printer in some kind of metal sheeting, but actually the drywall is enough.
If you get tuya based devices, you can flash them with tasmota using tuyaconvert to avoid any 3rd party to control and lurk from your devices. I have set up my printer actions using node-red. When I send a file using prusaslicer to my printer (over wlan) and the printer is off, octoprint listens mqtt topics: new file added, my LED's in the case turn on, the power to the printer turns on, the connection is automatically refreshed and the printers starts to warm up and print. But I can also trigger everything via homekit, also via node-red.
Besides the TPLinkSmartplug plugin, I've also authored Tasmota and TasmotaMQTT plugins for OctoPrint as well that will be able to control these Tasmota devices too.
@@jneilliii Nice! I am using the "normal" MQTT plugin and use node-red as "brain" for everything.
Another great guide Michael. I have set up the same combo for my printer and set it to turn off when the hot end cools to 40C. I see other people use 50C. What do you recommend?
David
Is there a way to have Alexa send the shutdown command to Octoprint. I want to manually turn everything off with one voice command, but I don't want to kill the power to the Pi without shutting it down first.
I have a sonoff WIFI relay for half a year. It has both temperature and humidity sensor so I can set it to turn off after an enclosure cooldowns and also works without a wifi connection out of the box no need to set any open ports. I hope they make similar plugin in octorpint for my sonoff relay., seems a bit better than just an external temperature sensor, since mine works just as enclosure cooldowns instead of the hotend.
Besides the TPLinkSmartplug plugin, I've also authored Tasmota and TasmotaMQTT plugins for OctoPrint as well that will be able to control these sonoff relays if you flash them with Tasmota.
Can the same OctoPrint plugin be used to control other brands of smart plugs (such as a General Electric plug)? I have one lying around and would prefer to save money if it's compatible.
This only works with TP-link?
I have used outlets like these with my printers for a few months. I have a phone setup in front of my printers with Skype setup to auto answer calls so I can see if they are printing good or not.
I have a TP-Link HS105 I'm trying to use for this. The app only shows the MAC address of it, and my Bell router does not show it in my wireless device list, either by IP or MAC. Any thoughts?
I bought a smart plug from Govee. pluged my printer into it, set up the app on my phone to make sure it was connected to my wifi. I got the IP address from it, Had to use a program to get the IP adress cause on the plug app, it only gave me the MAC adress. Followed your video, but the bolt icon stays grey. Any helpful tips? Thanks
Do you know if something like this could be done with a little grbl 3018 CNC?
@Teaching Tech i got it working BUT when i click the icon to turn on the plug/printer, and octo wants to connect to the printer, the plug turns off... help?
How about a 10A smart plug? I have a Wanhao I3 mini with no heated bed
Hi. I love you videos and explanations. I have one request. I am building my own 3d printer and cnc. I have a mks gen v3. I would like to configure both firm ware on one board. Is it possible? And would you be able to help?
anyway to get it to turn on when it receives the gcode from cura? Not sure if its an update but mine doesn't do it any more but everything else works. just wont turn on when I send octoprint a file to print. I have this one on an ender 3 pro
Do you know if the Kasa model number matters? I see oval-shaped ones like yours, but also rectangular ones
I put a WYZE streaming video camera watching the build platform....I can check the print progress from the hot tub.
Wouldn't you know, don't have the tp-link smart plug, have the Amazon one. Can't find a plugin for that one. 😞
hi Michael I have a quest for you.. I have a ender 3 v2 with a raspberry pi zero 2 running octoprint, I have the pi power coming off the printer so just the 1 power cord in the wall, what in trying to do is.... at the end of a print have a few mins delay to allow cooling the printer, then to properly shutdown the pi(octoprint) and finally turn off the smart plug to turn the power off the printer, I use the Webhooks to notify me on start,finish ect but can't find any plugin to do this apart from killing the power completely. any ideas ?
Hey Michael,
Do you know if it's possible to create a gcode script that preheates and runs auto bed levelling before stopping and waiting for the user to start the print? It would make octoprint automation much better, as the machine is fully primed and levelled, no need to wait for levelling before watching the first layer. Thanks
love your channel, ive been sitting here waiting for more lol you and makers muse are the best