Important note: set your failsafe max just UNDER the maxtemp in the firmware. If maxtemp is triggered first, the printer will disconnect and Octoprint can't read the temps to trigger the warning. Disclaimer: Just like enabling safety features in Marlin firmware, by completing the steps in this video you can make your 3D printer safer, but never foolproof. Treat it with respect and leave it unattended at your own risk.
HIGHLY DANGEROUS!!!!!! The relays you are sugesting are all rated for 10 amps. The Ender 3 however delivers up to 15 amps. Your relay contacts will burn îf your relay gets switched while under full load! DC currents are known for arcing which will result in fire after a short period of time. So instead of making the printer safer, you made it even more dangerous! Please do your homework when posting such stuff.
I agree with Raphael Süess - putting such a small relay on the high amp wire is not good. Those could be used on the AC wires where the current is much lower. For DC you could use automotive relay - those are in versions rated for 24V, 50A or much cheaper Solid-state relay (but you will lose few volts)...
Hi guys, I agree with what you are saying and have removed the relay links and instead put a guide to safely calculating a suitable relay. I originally was going to switch the AC PSU live wire input but was worried about someone electrocuting themselves. In hindsight I should have stuck with that.
@@TeachingTech 15A x 30A (450W) ====> 15A x 30V (450W), thanks for the video extremely useful. i am actually working on a fire detector tampering the buzzer to send a signal to a Opto-isolator / Opto-Coupler that also activates a relay, the cost of the firealarm is just 4.5$US last 9 years independent battery and it also makes high pitch noise with any sign of smoke ( very sensitive) if you are interested i can share with you the DYI
The reason your videos are so bloody good, is you even explain the things that people often question half way through watching a tutorial - great work!
The Exclude Region plugin just changed my life. I do a lot of small, tiled prints. If one fails, that means I may need to spend the next 9 hours attending it, and removing the spaghetti by hand, or glueing the failed part to the print bed, which atomizes the super-glue and makes toxic fumes. This is exactly what I was looking for!
exactly ! few days ago i had one of small pieces come of on a batch of 16 things ( doing some prototyping ) and whole batch became messed up after 9h of printing with 1h more to go... i had to throw everything away.. this will save my ass in the future ! :)
Wow, that region excluder is a real life saver. How often I've started a print and only one of the parts didn't work well, having to restart the entire print. Amazing!
psu control: on raspberry model 3 (and other models too) i think it is better to use an other port than 14, because this is a serial TX port and therefor during reboot my relay flickers. better to use other ports (like GPIO 23 - physical port 08). but as always - a very usefull video -thank you for your efforts in 3d printing. regards Michael
I had been struggling with this for days ... my printer control board would come on for about two seconds, then power off. Finally moved the signal to pin 16 (GPIO 23) and viola! It work like I would have expected. Next time, I should read more of the comments. :-)
I know this is an old video, but I'm just putting this here in case anyone sees this. When fitting the relay do not just stick the stranded wire straight into the screw terminals, over time that will fail. Also do not solder those wires and then stick them in the screw terminals, that will fail as well. By fail I mean it could melt or catch on fire. Screw terminals are meant for solid core wire or wire ferrules (crimp on connectors), so make sure you use some ferrules, it will make it much safer. Also on the Ender 3 the main power supply wires are just soldered and screwed into the mainboard, you should replace that with ferrules to prevent any future issues. Just thought I would mention this whilst the video is on about safety.
You should turn off the AC power going into the power supply, Not on the DC side. The power supply is probably rated at 380 W. That's approximately 16 A at 24 V. Many 3D printers use a 12 V power supply, that's about 32 A output. Add to that, 25% to 30% for safety, And you have gone far beyond the current the relay can tolerate. However the AC current at 120 V, will only use about 4 A , And only 2 A at 240 V. That is a much better choice. Better yet, plug the unit into a power tail. A much better solution for those who are electrically challenged. Also, Some Hobby relays are not suitable for high-voltage/I current. The rating of the relay itself is not a good indicator. There are several parameters that need to be addressed. The width of the contact traces, the spacing between them, just to name a couple. there are many other parameters that need to be checked For safety. DC power can give more problems than AC power. When DC power starts to arc, it continues to arc. AC power is self extinguishing. Please check the rating of your power supply. Stay safe.
That would mean then, that you can´t connect the raspberry pi to the psu, right? The raspberry pi needs to be powered off independently to then power on or of the printer, right?
@@Iboo30 The raspberry pie runs ON 5 V. Unless you are using a ATX PSU, It must be powered independently. And if you're using a ATX PSU, you don't need a relay to turn off the PSU .
@@joea3728 Yeah I know that ... No, I was thinking about hooking the rasperry pi up to the printers psu with a buck converter inbetween. But since I wanna turn the psu on and off with the rasperry using a relay I can´t do that ... that was my question...
Just installed Print Time Genius and Exclude Region, they are the ones that should be most useful to me. Not forgetting thermal protection of course, but I have other safeguards in place, plus, I never leave my printers unattended while powered on. Thanks for all your work Michael 👍
Just bought a relay while watching your custom backcase video where you mentioned a future video for the relays... Awesome timing !! Thank you for all the great content
Great video! I ended up just going with a HomeKit outlet so I could control remotely. Doesn't give any thermal protection but at least lets me power up and down remotely - and can easily work with a different device in the future.
The 5v mentioned is the "logic voltage" I.E. the voltage used by the Raspberry Pi to control the relay to turn it on or off. The relay in itself (as shown here) is capable of switching mains power, but as described here, it will only be used to cut the 24v after the PSU. That is fine and should typically not cause any problems. One needs to be aware however that the PSU itself will still be active and receiving full mains power even after the relay cuts the power. This also means that if the PSU is causing the fire, the relay will be of no use. For such a scenario, a Wifi controlled mains power outlet will be a better option, so that the raspberry pi turns off the power at the mains outlet. Mechanical relays can also be quite noisy, both in terms of sound and electrically, so a solid-state relay (SSR) might be a better option on the mains side, while a mosfet is likely a better option on the 24v side. there are modules for these too, and they are not that much more expensive.
@@rapman711 Either way, as i was saying, there are much better ways of doing this in safer ways, so if you have something to contribute, please do instead of being accusatory.
You should check out the "cancel objects" plugin. It's similar to "exclude region" but it has the smarts to cancel part of the print based on individual objects instead of a general area.
neo85271 doesn’t cancel objects require everything be different files? I like exclude region because you can cancel if something is in a single file or part of multiple. I have used both and Cancel objects requires too much setup and forethought.
It really does not take very long at all for a bad mosfet just to melt the heat block around the heating component, so this far better than just thermal runaway detection.
You really should do some work with the Spaghetti Detective plugin. While I've found it to be pretty high at false positives even on medium, it gives insane peace of mind to leave prints while working and not worry about lost filament. A 28 hour print failing can suck, but it sucks about 10 dollars more if it doesn't stop printing. Also if you trust it enough you can have it auto pause when it detects a failure and resume when you give it the okay.
This is EPIC great job! Been 3D printing since 2012 (original Ultimaker) been using Octoprint and RPi since day one, had no idea about these amazing plugins! Awesome!
Great video as always, Michael. I know it is a completely different subject, but it would be interesting if you make a video about piezoelectric auto bed leveling sensors. You made a review on the BL touch, capacitive and inductive already, but piezoelectric seems to be another story. Looking forward to the next videos!
Automatic range hood fire suppressor. I have one hanging above each 3d printer. Like $50 and will put out a decent sized printer fire, assuming the power gets cut and best when in an enclosure.
I'm not sure how available TP-Link smart plugs are outside of the US, but I have most of my printers and accessories plugged into them, and use the "TP-Link Smartplug" plugin for Octoprint to control them (and show energy usage on them, if you have the HS110 model of plug). I didn't know how easy it was to set up max temp triggers using the temperature failsafe plugin, so my next step will be to set that up to turn off power if that triggers. I also want to look into a real (commercial) smart smoke detector, and have Home Assistant turn off power to basically everything in my workshop if the smoke detector in there detects any smoke. Like you established in your testing, it might not be fast enough to prevent a fire, but it certainly shouldn't hurt anything to turn off the printers in the event a fire breaks out (other than maybe failing a few prints in the event of a false positive, but it seems wise to err on the side of safety).
Oh, also, I have a CR-10 S5 with an aftermarket keenovo heatbed on it, and I use gcode to the TP-Link Smartplug plugin to turn the heatbed on at the start of a print, and off at the end. It saved trying to get the printer to handle the heatbed wiring (that particular heatbed is 1200 watts).
Again very good content! Love your Channel. Very good description whats going on and Tipps and Hints. I share your channel with everyone i know with 3d printer. Especially if they have problems.
Thank you for thorough analysis and selection of plugins. I'd like to grab the attention to the ratings of the relay being used as it has to cover the maximum DC current plus a margin. Not sure if the shown in the video with 30VDC/10 Amps will be enough to properly and safely support the Ender 3 printer.
That's a good point. When heating both the hotend/bed and powering all the other electronics,, the printer may potentially pull more amps than the 10A relay is rated for. The Ender 3 PSU is rated for 350 watts at 24 volts, so rearranging the formula watts = voltage * amps to amps = watts / voltage gives you ~14.6 amps which is well above the spec of that 30v 10a relay. The question is, what other options are out there that would fit well in this type of application? Preferably retaining the same footprint of the 10a adafruit relay but supporting a higher current draw.
@@neo85271 I would recommend getting a 30A relay yes they are bigger but can handle the load otherwise you are stuck with a mosfet which could fail in a similar way to which was described in the video, on the other hand relays can also fail but are a lot less likely to when not run near there max load.
There are comments about this elsewhere, but the relay should chop AC power between the power plug, and the LINE IN on the power supply, not on the DC outputs. The Ender 3 Pro PSU draws 110v @ 9a. This is within the labeled rating of these off-the-shelf IoT relays. On the DC side, when converting to DC, it's stepping the voltage down to 24v @ 14.5a, and as you can see, the amperage is considerably higher than the rating of the relay. Safe way to add the relay is on the AC side, between the wall plug and Line In on the PSU. This does mean you'll need a separate wall adapter for your RaspberryPi, rather than a buck converter to power the Pi. The Pi would lose power when you trigger the relay, otherwise. (I consider this a perfectly fine trade-off.)
If Spagetti Detective could be used in monitoring with, Slicing Software progress imaging, to determine if a part is missing and needs to be excluded, thus triggering Exclude Region would be awesome, most Filament printers could use such a backup. P.S. Your Smoke detector would never work the way you tested it, You would need a Hob with a filtered extraction fan, there you would have to have a smoke detector detect in a Closed System that the values have exceeded norms and switch off the printer, retracting the head away from the print prior to shutdown.
On 120V (US) I've seen 4 amps drawn when both the bed and hotend are heating. Translate that down to 24V (E3 pro) and you have the potential to see 5x the current of that on the mains. I would recommend checking the DC amps on that cable. Your relay package is only rated for 10A DC as DC is harder to "break" than AC. I'll get my clamp in a bit and gcode both heaters up to temp and report back on the current. Maybe I'm wrong as the meanwell supply isn't very nice from a Power Factor angle.
No question that the relay is undersized. The power supply is rated at 15 amps so the relay has to be rated at 15 amps or more. The bed heater alone is rated at 220 watts - about 9 amps. Add the hot end draw to that and you would certainly exceed 10 amps. There is more of course - steppers and electronics board. It would be ironic for the relay to catch fire from being overloaded.
@@BruceMFerry that is what I was thinking too, also a risk is that the relay melts to a point during normal use that it no longer can open/close depending on which option was used NC/NO, and the cutoff feature is lost, ie cannot act as a cutoff. Will look for a higher power 3 volt relay.
According to the Fluke i410 (for accuracy reference) clipped around the red wire between the PS and MKS I had 11.3A flowing while heating bed and hotend. I get 0.3A when just the hotend and board fans are on.
@@OldCurmudgeon3DP Looks like we have to go to mosfet switch boards to get to > 10 amp. Found a few in the usual places. But I have already printed the PI side of Mr Michael's back end electronics housing. I waited on the controller board side as, I mull over trying my hand at remixing to add cable chain mounts to the cable exit points. Someone might look at the 15 and 30 amp mosffet boards and add bosses for those boards to the PI side in a remix. I like that the higher power boards appear to have opto-couplers for the logic signals from the PI.
Another useful and informative video but...you put so much information into such a short time I'm forced to repeatedly pause the video and restart. I would find it very helpful if you posted a text file of your monologue. I think I'll try doing a speech to text copy and see how that goes.
Other nice plugin is plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/octopod/. It sends notifications to your phone when printer encountered a thermal runaway error, min temp error, max temp error or any other firmware error. For convenience it also sends notifications when printer halted and is waiting for user assistance (great for MMU2 or manual multi color printing). It also includes notifications if you are using Palette 2 and needs user assistance. There are more notifications that the plugin can do. From the OctoPod app you can control the PSUControl and many other plugins like TPLink, Tasmota, etc. It also makes use of the MultiCamera plugin. Bonus: It is all free an open source. :D
Thanks for video! But when I use PSU control I have one unsolved issue: If I turn my printer's power supply off, but my orange Pi is still powered, I have working LCD, powered via USB cord. It is not good. If I isolate +5V in USB cord - afted powering off LCD will not stay powered, but octoprint lost connection to MCU (because there is no power on MCU). Is it possible to bring power to LCD of printer only when MCU is powered by 24V power supply?
Just curious of there has been a change to the Temp Failsafe plugin since this was posted? I have it setup exactly as described and if I set the failsafe temp at say 50c as a test, when it hits 50 it posts the warning on my screen that the failsafe temp has been exceeded but it does not cut the power through the PSU Control app. Instead it turns the target temp off and the nozzle starts to cool. Obviously I want the power to the whole unit to shut down through the relay but the shell command seems to just turn off the nozzle but not turn off the PSU. I can turn off the PSU by clicking on the lightning bolt but it will not do it automatically if the failsafe is triggered. Any ideas?
Great video, thanks. I would recommend you to try WLan Smart Plugs as PSU control. i personally using TECKIN WLAN Smart Plug(4pcs $30) for around 6months and totally satisfied. (primary bought to turn valve lighthouse base stations on and off)
I keep a Flamebuster (fire extinguisher ball) next to mine. Just in case. It will make a mess but it will explode outward with flame extinguishing material based on temperature. Cheap insurance.
Hi Michael! love what you do!!!! Quick question my son downloaded Octopi Ver 1.10.2. I cannot find the wrench to get to the settings page. Did the move it? or was I not given admin status. is the another way to get to settings? Thank ypu in advance!
Thanks for tutorial. I have octoprint with stock ender 3 board (still wait for skr1.3). Relay works fine, I switch AC for psu and use helping power for Rpi (old 2A charger). My problem is, when I power off printer with relay (or with switch) board is still live because Rpi powered board via USB cable. How to make when I power off printer board off too? Thanks
Hi Michael, very clear and understandable video's, very help full for noobs like myself, at the moment I've got a cr-10s V2 a ender 3 V2 and a raspberry pi 4 underway, so i'm looking at as much video's as i can find, but you'rs keep popping up at each subject i'm looking for, but i do have a small question, what is better, running octopi or raspberry PI os ?? i would like to have full control over the printers from anywhere, i'll also will install the PSU relay and the cam's... thanks again and keep up the good work, p.s. are you by any chance a teacher by profession ?? if not, you should :)
I think forsafety a completely independent temperature channel incl. Sensor and electronics is needed. A temperature fuse on the heaterblock would be pefect.
Hi Michael. I have one issue with the PSU control plugin with relay and filament sensor. When I enable "Automatically turn PSU OFF when idle" and the filament sensor send M600 command and paused printer, the PSU control does not recognize that the printer is paused, not in idle mode. As a result, if I do not have time to replace the filament, the plugin turns off the printer and after turning it on, I no longer have the option to finish the print. Is there any solution to this situation?
Could you make a tutorial for the smoke detector anyway? My plan is to build a box out of plywood, and then line then put plaster walls on the insides for the flame retardant properties. However, while the smoke alarm will go off after the fire already has started, at least the power will be turned off so that it won't fuel the power further. I'm not sure how I'd go about keeping the insides of the box at a reasonable temperature. Vents would be one way, but it's not optimal. The good thing with a lack of airflow is that the fire will suffocate if it does burn, due to lack of oxidizers.
Trying to install plugins. I can get them and install them but they do not show up. The only one I can get to work is Themify. I changed the color and it looked ok but I change the color back and now every time I reboot it brings that color back even though I changed it to the original. All other plugins install but do not show up. The control panels show up and everything looks OK but like the Emergency stop button doesn't actually show up on the dashboard.
I follow your steps and it does not work. possible is my relay issue or my RPI issue? I am currently using RPI 3A+. I can see the PSU control icon on top but when I click on it, it gives me no signal at all.
Rate your relay properly.. Ender 3 PSU is capable of over than 20A on the 24V rail... use a 30A relay or fuse, non a 10A one! Or use a 10A relay on the Mains side, at your own risk.
Hi, I am a little confused - I currently control my PSU via a TPLink Wifi outlet that I control with Octo Print. Is there a reason I would want to use PSU control with a relay, which seems to take quite a bit more setup, than the current WiFi plug setup I am running now? Thank you!!
Thank you for this as I have always been unsure of dedicating a RPI to the 3d printer. Look at the PM2.5 particle sensor instead of the smoke detector as they are far more sensitive and some have heat sensors built in.
I have a sonoff plug (controlled by home assistant) on my printer (cocoon create). It looks I'll be able to use 'temperature failsafe' to directly power down without psu control. I give that a try.
Greetings Michael, I recently setup the PSU control in a Creality CR-X and I’ve noticed something strange. I chose to follow your configuration and fed the +24v through the NO side of the relay using a raspberry pi b3+ and octoprint. I ran a few tests and all seemed fine. I put the bottom cover back on and for some reason now I have no motor control. I noticed the boot screen was loading with ???? Where I’d normally see the printer firmware name. I know personal tech support isn’t an option but I think something may have impacted the stepper motor control on the board. Is there an easy way to establish if somehow the board is not sending signal to the motors? Sorry, I’m a little perplexed. I have verified the supply voltage. BLTouch control works, heated bed and nozzle works, I’ve connected with Pronterface and don’t see anything abnormal. I can even control the fan on the print head but my extruders and x,y,z steppers will not make a sound when sending commands. Moving by hand is normal. TIA
Great walkthru thank you! I appreciate the plug in information! Only had my Ender 3x a week and have been watching many of your videos to tweak it. One question though. I am no electronics expert, but I have seen comments elsewhere that a single relay is not enough and can actually fry your Pi. Apparently when it looses power the Ender CPU will pull power from the USB cable from the Pi to the printer. This overloads and kills the Pi. I cannot prove or disprove it, but some sources are saying you need to cut the red wire in the USB cable you use to control your printer from the Pi so that it cannot siphon power. Have you had any experience with that or heard about it?
yes backfeeding power on the pi is a known issue. when the pi first came out people were having problems with usb hubs that allowed back feeding of power and they even had a pi usb hub made that specifically stopped that issue. as for the red wire i would double check it with a multimeter as not all usb cables use the same colour wires for the same pins. so even if you do have a red wire i would still check it.
With this setup the PSU is still receiving power though is it not? Why not setup a relay for the power headed directly to the PSU that way you can send an off command to kill all power to the Ender 3 and PSU?
What is cheapest 3d printer would you recommend as the best option in terms of quality and that could be klipperized to get insane speed and quality? Is ender 3 good enough?
Nice just a few weeks ago I tried to find a video about this topic and couldn't find anything good. Looks like I am subscribed to the right channel! ;) Edit: Btw. have you looked into slicing via octoprint? Is this a valid option?
I really like your channel and thanks for all the tutorial. Any chance you can do a tutorial to add the buck convertor for an Ender 3 v2? I can't find any videos on the internet on this.
I updated my Ender 3 to the 1.15 silent board with BLtouch and Marlin 1.9 bug fix. When I send a print from Octo Print the Ender 3 acts stupid and prints garbage. I can take the same file and load it in to the printer using the SD Card and it will print fine. What did you change if anything in the firmware to yours to work so well?
Using a 10A relay is a serious problem. A 24V printer like the Ender 3 will have a max power draw of appx. 15A, and a 12V printer possibly twice that. You need to rectify this and pull the video until it is fixed, or risk people burning up their printers. IIRC you have the same problem with your Ender 3 rear mounted case.
had a print stop mid-print. The nozzle was in the plastic all night at 245c was printing modified abs glad it didn't catch fire as it was chared around the print where the nozzle stopped, what happened was one of the end stop plugs fell out. So i tapped the wires so they won't wiggle out
You could try flashing sonoff with tasmota and send a mqtt command to the sonoff after printing. Install a mqtt broker on the pi, or even better, home assistant in a docker container. Home assistant has a native octoprint integration www.home-assistant.io/integrations/octoprint/ selfhostedhome.com/setting-up-octoprint-with-the-ender-3-and-home-assistant/
my attdmpt on controlling the power will be with the Bigtreetech relay board as it switches of power to the main PSU and have it controlled through the printer mainboard as it wilp still have 5V for the mcu through the raspberry pi
So hold up, if you use the power plugin it still reads the temps from the micro pushing the driver board and that registered 0' on it when it failed. This ideally would have a secondary sensor directly to the PI monitoring temp right?
How do you link "the spaghetti detective" with the "Exclude region" plugin? Some machine learning from the spaghetti detective could be used to learn which areas are to be printed but are now absent because they've come off the build plate or whatever. If it could feed that region into exlude region, you could have an auto-correcting system that just abandons an object if it thinks it's come off the build plate. Edit: Spaghetti detector uses deep learning to detect strings. It should, by extension, be a doddle to detect major changes in the video frame, and where it is happening, if something comes unstuck.
I noticed that the Octoprint browser screen in the video is full width. I have tried adjusting the RasPi's screen resolution and searched for Plugin's and configuration settings to no avail. I know I'm missing something. Can anybody throw me a hint? Thanks.
I suppose You could also use the PSU switch to switch the hot end fan off when below 50 as well, my ender 3 drives me mad .... or is there a plugin that will do both with 2 relays?
I'm planning install psu control using AC instead DC and of course my raspberry pi powered using separate adapters, but i'm thinking to pick solid state relay instead normal relay so I wanna ask you guys is it safe using solid state relay?
I'm... disappointed that Spaghetti Detective isn't open source. Can't wait for an open source data-set using OpenCV or something similar. Definitely not worth a monthly fee and privacy concerns. ***Correction: It seems you can run an open source version of the project, it simply isn't mentioned on the site. It also doesn't run on a pi, but I could work around that.***
Question. Im doing the relay mod. I got the relay to work. I just wondering why you interrupt the mobo power wire instead of the main power so the psu also powers down. Side question: The pi powers the board via the usb cable, so Im not sure if the relay is off because the screen is still on.
maybe screen is powered through USB cable by raspi. Tape one pin in the USB connector and the screen goes off (google for instructions, it's out there)
Not Michael, but you would wire the second the same way, but instead connect the "signal" wire to a different GPIO pin in addition to the relay that was shown in the video. You would need to make up a splitter for the 5v and Gnd leads potentially though, depending on if you're using 2 individual relays or a single chip with 2 relays on board.
This relay setup will not protect systems that have external mosfets for the hotend or heated bed. They usually fail closed which would send power directly to the heaters regardless of the power state of the mainboard. To get around this you would need the relay to switch mains voltage.
I need some help. When i print using octoprint the print head moves all the way to the end of the print bed every time a level is finished. Not sure what is happening and how to fix this. can anyone please help
The notion that adding a smoke detector to increase safety is pretty silly. If something is smoking enough to trigger a smoke sensor - as you note -, it is probably too late anyway unless you are going to trigger a fire extinguisher. Adding temperature sensors (DS18B20 for example) at strategic points and polling them by the Octopi to trigger a PSU shutdown is probably a better idea.
can someone tell me a good model name/number to a relay I should be looking for? I'm new to the hobby and not sure what I'm looking for. An amazon link would be great plz.
With the no-print rectangle think in z-height, Because it shows only one layer, if your part is bigger on top you have to account for that. I already had it happen that the no-print zone was to small for higher layers.
hey, i have a question. great video as always! when my printer has no power from the psu, but the raspi is connected via usb, then i also gets power from the raspi. but the display is very dark then and i dont really trust that situation. is the print cancled then or what? i mean with the relay mod. Thanks very much!
With the PSU disconnected, the printer's controller board draws its +5V power from the USB on the RasPi...which it really shouldn't, but that's a discussion for another day. Basically the only thing on the printer that still works is the electronics. The stepper motors, hot-end, and bed, are all without power.
I solve this by cutting open the mini-usb cable, and severing the red +5v line. (Cap/insulate the ends, because there's a ground sheath inside the cable.) I wanted to order a cable set up correctly, but while you can buy a power only cable that has no sync/data lines, I couldn't find a cable off-the-shelf for sale that had sync/data lines and NO power lines. A custom cable maker could whip one up for you easily. Like you, I do not trust the Pi powering the the mainboard/display of the printer when the PSU is off. I also added the TL Smoothers, because they also prevent voltage generated by the stepper motors (when you move the print head while the unit is turned off, for instance) pushing back into the mainboard. Out of the box, you can actually get the display to light up by moving the print head, as the stepper motors will also generate (a small amount of) electricity when moved. I want the mainboard to last, and the Pi to last as well, so eliminating these opportunities for surges and voltage bleed is a good investment.
Haven't tried it yet but I'm thinking of using the OctoPrint-TPLinkSmartplug plugin which talks to a wifi enabled wall socket plug. Then my printer will be powered on/off at the wall by octoprint which is powered separately. Basically a wifi enabled version of what I do now which is power on my printer through a switch enabled power board. Anyone tried the wifi socket method?
Hi Michael Something strange, My ender stopped comunicating via USB port: "Error: Failed to autodetect serial port, please set it manually." I tested the board with 3 diferent Octoprint installations, including one on my notebook, changed 3 usb cables, and nothing.... could it be the USB port on the board itself? any fix? .... I'm thinking on changing the board with the Fysetc Cheetah , it is plug&play , 32 bit, it includes Marlin 2.0 , the 2208's, and a few other things, do you know something about it?
I'd love to see a comparison of klipper with stock melzi board and marlin with 32bit board, I've heard that klipper is faster and yields better results, but it was just some people that said that without any testing
Important note: set your failsafe max just UNDER the maxtemp in the firmware. If maxtemp is triggered first, the printer will disconnect and Octoprint can't read the temps to trigger the warning.
Disclaimer: Just like enabling safety features in Marlin firmware, by completing the steps in this video you can make your 3D printer safer, but never foolproof. Treat it with respect and leave it unattended at your own risk.
HIGHLY DANGEROUS!!!!!!
The relays you are sugesting are all rated for 10 amps. The Ender 3 however delivers up to 15 amps. Your relay contacts will burn îf your relay gets switched while under full load! DC currents are known for arcing which will result in fire after a short period of time. So instead of making the printer safer, you made it even more dangerous! Please do your homework when posting such stuff.
I agree with Raphael Süess
- putting such a small relay on the high amp wire is not good. Those could be used on the AC wires where the current is much lower. For DC you could use automotive relay - those are in versions rated for 24V, 50A or much cheaper Solid-state relay (but you will lose few volts)...
@@rafalmag thx name buddy😎
Hi guys, I agree with what you are saying and have removed the relay links and instead put a guide to safely calculating a suitable relay. I originally was going to switch the AC PSU live wire input but was worried about someone electrocuting themselves. In hindsight I should have stuck with that.
@@TeachingTech 15A x 30A (450W) ====> 15A x 30V (450W), thanks for the video extremely useful. i am actually working on a fire detector tampering the buzzer to send a signal to a Opto-isolator / Opto-Coupler that also activates a relay, the cost of the firealarm is just 4.5$US last 9 years independent battery and it also makes high pitch noise with any sign of smoke ( very sensitive) if you are interested i can share with you the DYI
The reason your videos are so bloody good, is you even explain the things that people often question half way through watching a tutorial - great work!
The Exclude Region plugin just changed my life. I do a lot of small, tiled prints. If one fails, that means I may need to spend the next 9 hours attending it, and removing the spaghetti by hand, or glueing the failed part to the print bed, which atomizes the super-glue and makes toxic fumes. This is exactly what I was looking for!
exactly ! few days ago i had one of small pieces come of on a batch of 16 things ( doing some prototyping ) and whole batch became messed up after 9h of printing with 1h more to go... i had to throw everything away.. this will save my ass in the future ! :)
Wow, that region excluder is a real life saver. How often I've started a print and only one of the parts didn't work well, having to restart the entire print. Amazing!
psu control: on raspberry model 3 (and other models too) i think it is better to use an other port than 14, because this is a serial TX port and therefor during reboot my relay flickers. better to use other ports (like GPIO 23 - physical port 08).
but as always - a very usefull video -thank you for your efforts in 3d printing.
regards
Michael
I had been struggling with this for days ... my printer control board would come on for about two seconds, then power off. Finally moved the signal to pin 16 (GPIO 23) and viola! It work like I would have expected. Next time, I should read more of the comments. :-)
I know this is an old video, but I'm just putting this here in case anyone sees this. When fitting the relay do not just stick the stranded wire straight into the screw terminals, over time that will fail. Also do not solder those wires and then stick them in the screw terminals, that will fail as well. By fail I mean it could melt or catch on fire. Screw terminals are meant for solid core wire or wire ferrules (crimp on connectors), so make sure you use some ferrules, it will make it much safer. Also on the Ender 3 the main power supply wires are just soldered and screwed into the mainboard, you should replace that with ferrules to prevent any future issues.
Just thought I would mention this whilst the video is on about safety.
You should turn off the AC power going into the power supply, Not on the DC side. The power supply is probably rated at 380 W. That's approximately 16 A at 24 V. Many 3D printers use a 12 V power supply, that's about 32 A output. Add to that, 25% to 30% for safety, And you have gone far beyond the current the relay can tolerate. However the AC current at 120 V, will only use about 4 A , And only 2 A at 240 V. That is a much better choice. Better yet, plug the unit into a power tail. A much better solution for those who are electrically challenged. Also, Some Hobby relays are not suitable for high-voltage/I current. The rating of the relay itself is not a good indicator. There are several parameters that need to be addressed. The width of the contact traces, the spacing between them, just to name a couple. there are many other parameters that need to be checked For safety. DC power can give more problems than AC power. When DC power starts to arc, it continues to arc. AC power is self extinguishing.
Please check the rating of your power supply. Stay safe.
Agreed and description updated.
That would mean then, that you can´t connect the raspberry pi to the psu, right? The raspberry pi needs to be powered off independently to then power on or of the printer, right?
@@Iboo30
The raspberry pie runs ON 5 V. Unless you are using a ATX PSU, It must be powered independently. And if you're using a ATX PSU, you don't need a relay to turn off the PSU .
@@joea3728 Yeah I know that ... No, I was thinking about hooking the rasperry pi up to the printers psu with a buck converter inbetween. But since I wanna turn the psu on and off with the rasperry using a relay I can´t do that ... that was my question...
@@joea3728So how do you turn on/off an ATX PSU from OctoPrint ?
GREAT video! More safety for our community can only be a good thing.
power supply control was something I have been searching all week to use properly.... this is great, thank you !
Just installed Print Time Genius and Exclude Region, they are the ones that should be most useful to me. Not forgetting thermal protection of course, but I have other safeguards in place, plus, I never leave my printers unattended while powered on. Thanks for all your work Michael 👍
Just bought a relay while watching your custom backcase video where you mentioned a future video for the relays... Awesome timing !! Thank you for all the great content
Great video! I ended up just going with a HomeKit outlet so I could control remotely. Doesn't give any thermal protection but at least lets me power up and down remotely - and can easily work with a different device in the future.
Your stuff is great and saves so much time. I don’t know what I would do without you and Mikes Basement. I am sending you a tiny bit of money 🙂
The 5v mentioned is the "logic voltage" I.E. the voltage used by the Raspberry Pi to control the relay to turn it on or off. The relay in itself (as shown here) is capable of switching mains power, but as described here, it will only be used to cut the 24v after the PSU. That is fine and should typically not cause any problems. One needs to be aware however that the PSU itself will still be active and receiving full mains power even after the relay cuts the power. This also means that if the PSU is causing the fire, the relay will be of no use. For such a scenario, a Wifi controlled mains power outlet will be a better option, so that the raspberry pi turns off the power at the mains outlet.
Mechanical relays can also be quite noisy, both in terms of sound and electrically, so a solid-state relay (SSR) might be a better option on the mains side, while a mosfet is likely a better option on the 24v side. there are modules for these too, and they are not that much more expensive.
Thats not true, the listed relays are all to small to handle the 15 amps dc current of the enders psu.
@@rapman711 Either way, as i was saying, there are much better ways of doing this in safer ways, so if you have something to contribute, please do instead of being accusatory.
The perseverant and consistent Michael 💟 happy printing
That 2nd plugin is amazing. Makes multi part prints soooo much easier
You should check out the "cancel objects" plugin. It's similar to "exclude region" but it has the smarts to cancel part of the print based on individual objects instead of a general area.
neo85271 doesn’t cancel objects require everything be different files?
I like exclude region because you can cancel if something is in a single file or part of multiple. I have used both and Cancel objects requires too much setup and forethought.
Great. Glad people are bringing more attention to this. Keep it up.
It really does not take very long at all for a bad mosfet just to melt the heat block around the heating component, so this far better than just thermal runaway detection.
You really should do some work with the Spaghetti Detective plugin. While I've found it to be pretty high at false positives even on medium, it gives insane peace of mind to leave prints while working and not worry about lost filament. A 28 hour print failing can suck, but it sucks about 10 dollars more if it doesn't stop printing.
Also if you trust it enough you can have it auto pause when it detects a failure and resume when you give it the okay.
This is EPIC great job! Been 3D printing since 2012 (original Ultimaker) been using Octoprint and RPi since day one, had no idea about these amazing plugins! Awesome!
Great video as always, Michael. I know it is a completely different subject, but it would be interesting if you make a video about piezoelectric auto bed leveling sensors. You made a review on the BL touch, capacitive and inductive already, but piezoelectric seems to be another story. Looking forward to the next videos!
Ok this earned my sub, great info in a comprehensive but succinct manner. Cheers.
Automatic range hood fire suppressor. I have one hanging above each 3d printer. Like $50 and will put out a decent sized printer fire, assuming the power gets cut and best when in an enclosure.
Great Job! Really good information and very well presented! Thanks so much for what you do!!!
I'm not sure how available TP-Link smart plugs are outside of the US, but I have most of my printers and accessories plugged into them, and use the "TP-Link Smartplug" plugin for Octoprint to control them (and show energy usage on them, if you have the HS110 model of plug). I didn't know how easy it was to set up max temp triggers using the temperature failsafe plugin, so my next step will be to set that up to turn off power if that triggers. I also want to look into a real (commercial) smart smoke detector, and have Home Assistant turn off power to basically everything in my workshop if the smoke detector in there detects any smoke. Like you established in your testing, it might not be fast enough to prevent a fire, but it certainly shouldn't hurt anything to turn off the printers in the event a fire breaks out (other than maybe failing a few prints in the event of a false positive, but it seems wise to err on the side of safety).
Oh, also, I have a CR-10 S5 with an aftermarket keenovo heatbed on it, and I use gcode to the TP-Link Smartplug plugin to turn the heatbed on at the start of a print, and off at the end. It saved trying to get the printer to handle the heatbed wiring (that particular heatbed is 1200 watts).
Again very good content! Love your Channel. Very good description whats going on and Tipps and Hints. I share your channel with everyone i know with 3d printer. Especially if they have problems.
Awesome plugins Michael, It's late so I'll give them a try in the morning 👍
Thank you for thorough analysis and selection of plugins. I'd like to grab the attention to the ratings of the relay being used as it has to cover the maximum DC current plus a margin. Not sure if the shown in the video with 30VDC/10 Amps will be enough to properly and safely support the Ender 3 printer.
That's a good point. When heating both the hotend/bed and powering all the other electronics,, the printer may potentially pull more amps than the 10A relay is rated for.
The Ender 3 PSU is rated for 350 watts at 24 volts, so rearranging the formula
watts = voltage * amps to amps = watts / voltage gives you ~14.6 amps
which is well above the spec of that 30v 10a relay.
The question is, what other options are out there that would fit well in this type of application? Preferably retaining the same footprint of the 10a adafruit relay but supporting a higher current draw.
@@neo85271 I would recommend getting a 30A relay yes they are bigger but can handle the load otherwise you are stuck with a mosfet which could fail in a similar way to which was described in the video, on the other hand relays can also fail but are a lot less likely to when not run near there max load.
There are comments about this elsewhere, but the relay should chop AC power between the power plug, and the LINE IN on the power supply, not on the DC outputs. The Ender 3 Pro PSU draws 110v @ 9a. This is within the labeled rating of these off-the-shelf IoT relays. On the DC side, when converting to DC, it's stepping the voltage down to 24v @ 14.5a, and as you can see, the amperage is considerably higher than the rating of the relay. Safe way to add the relay is on the AC side, between the wall plug and Line In on the PSU.
This does mean you'll need a separate wall adapter for your RaspberryPi, rather than a buck converter to power the Pi. The Pi would lose power when you trigger the relay, otherwise. (I consider this a perfectly fine trade-off.)
If Spagetti Detective could be used in monitoring with, Slicing Software progress imaging, to determine if a part is missing and needs to be excluded, thus triggering Exclude Region would be awesome, most Filament printers could use such a backup.
P.S. Your Smoke detector would never work the way you tested it, You would need a Hob with a filtered extraction fan, there you would have to have a smoke detector detect in a Closed System that the values have exceeded norms and switch off the printer, retracting the head away from the print prior to shutdown.
On 120V (US) I've seen 4 amps drawn when both the bed and hotend are heating. Translate that down to 24V (E3 pro) and you have the potential to see 5x the current of that on the mains. I would recommend checking the DC amps on that cable. Your relay package is only rated for 10A DC as DC is harder to "break" than AC. I'll get my clamp in a bit and gcode both heaters up to temp and report back on the current. Maybe I'm wrong as the meanwell supply isn't very nice from a Power Factor angle.
I eagerly await your results.
No question that the relay is undersized. The power supply is rated at 15 amps so the relay has to be rated at 15 amps or more. The bed heater alone is rated at 220 watts - about 9 amps. Add the hot end draw to that and you would certainly exceed 10 amps. There is more of course - steppers and electronics board.
It would be ironic for the relay to catch fire from being overloaded.
@@BruceMFerry that is what I was thinking too, also a risk is that the relay melts to a point during normal use that it no longer can open/close depending on which option was used NC/NO, and the cutoff feature is lost, ie cannot act as a cutoff. Will look for a higher power 3 volt relay.
According to the Fluke i410 (for accuracy reference) clipped around the red wire between the PS and MKS I had 11.3A flowing while heating bed and hotend. I get 0.3A when just the hotend and board fans are on.
@@OldCurmudgeon3DP Looks like we have to go to mosfet switch boards to get to > 10 amp. Found a few in the usual places. But I have already printed the PI side of Mr Michael's back end electronics housing. I waited on the controller board side as, I mull over trying my hand at remixing to add cable chain mounts to the cable exit points. Someone might look at the 15 and 30 amp mosffet boards and add bosses for those boards to the PI side in a remix. I like that the higher power boards appear to have opto-couplers for the logic signals from the PI.
Another useful and informative video but...you put so much information into such a short time I'm forced to repeatedly pause the video and restart. I would find it very helpful if you posted a text file of your monologue. I think I'll try doing a speech to text copy and see how that goes.
Excellent video, as always! Thanks for the info!
Once I work out how to get dual Z motors working with the SKR 1.3 I will be adding a RPi, it looks way more useful than I realised!
Use a y-cable, that is what Im using.
@@brokentusk5033 Just pin-to-pin parallel? Cool. I don't need to set anything on the board itself?
Other nice plugin is plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/octopod/. It sends notifications to your phone when printer encountered a thermal runaway error, min temp error, max temp error or any other firmware error. For convenience it also sends notifications when printer halted and is waiting for user assistance (great for MMU2 or manual multi color printing). It also includes notifications if you are using Palette 2 and needs user assistance. There are more notifications that the plugin can do. From the OctoPod app you can control the PSUControl and many other plugins like TPLink, Tasmota, etc. It also makes use of the MultiCamera plugin. Bonus: It is all free an open source. :D
Thanks for video! But when I use PSU control I have one unsolved issue:
If I turn my printer's power supply off, but my orange Pi is still powered, I have working LCD, powered via USB cord. It is not good.
If I isolate +5V in USB cord - afted powering off LCD will not stay powered, but octoprint lost connection to MCU (because there is no power on MCU).
Is it possible to bring power to LCD of printer only when MCU is powered by 24V power supply?
Just curious of there has been a change to the Temp Failsafe plugin since this was posted? I have it setup exactly as described and if I set the failsafe temp at say 50c as a test, when it hits 50 it posts the warning on my screen that the failsafe temp has been exceeded but it does not cut the power through the PSU Control app. Instead it turns the target temp off and the nozzle starts to cool. Obviously I want the power to the whole unit to shut down through the relay but the shell command seems to just turn off the nozzle but not turn off the PSU. I can turn off the PSU by clicking on the lightning bolt but it will not do it automatically if the failsafe is triggered. Any ideas?
Great video, thanks. I would recommend you to try WLan Smart Plugs as PSU control. i personally using TECKIN WLAN Smart Plug(4pcs $30) for around 6months and totally satisfied. (primary bought to turn valve lighthouse base stations on and off)
yeay, new video! cool, thanks
I keep a Flamebuster (fire extinguisher ball) next to mine. Just in case. It will make a mess but it will explode outward with flame extinguishing material based on temperature. Cheap insurance.
Hi Michael! love what you do!!!! Quick question my son downloaded Octopi Ver 1.10.2. I cannot find the wrench to get to the settings page. Did the move it? or was I not given admin status. is the another way to get to settings? Thank ypu in advance!
Thanks for tutorial. I have octoprint with stock ender 3 board (still wait for skr1.3). Relay works fine, I switch AC for psu and use helping power for Rpi (old 2A charger). My problem is, when I power off printer with relay (or with switch) board is still live because Rpi powered board via USB cable. How to make when I power off printer board off too? Thanks
Hi Michael, very clear and understandable video's, very help full for noobs like myself, at the moment I've got a cr-10s V2 a ender 3 V2 and a raspberry pi 4 underway, so i'm looking at as much video's as i can find, but you'rs keep popping up at each subject i'm looking for, but i do have a small question, what is better, running octopi or raspberry PI os ?? i would like to have full control over the printers from anywhere, i'll also will install the PSU relay and the cam's... thanks again and keep up the good work, p.s. are you by any chance a teacher by profession ?? if not, you should :)
Hi Micheal you can add a flame detector sensor that sense if there is a flame
I like your LED wall accent ;)
I think forsafety a completely independent temperature channel incl. Sensor and electronics is needed. A temperature fuse on the heaterblock would be pefect.
Hi Michael. I have one issue with the PSU control plugin with relay and filament sensor. When I enable "Automatically turn PSU OFF when idle" and the filament sensor send M600 command and paused printer, the PSU control does not recognize that the printer is paused, not in idle mode. As a result, if I do not have time to replace the filament, the plugin turns off the printer and after turning it on, I no longer have the option to finish the print. Is there any solution to this situation?
Could you make a tutorial for the smoke detector anyway?
My plan is to build a box out of plywood, and then line then put plaster walls on the insides for the flame retardant properties. However, while the smoke alarm will go off after the fire already has started, at least the power will be turned off so that it won't fuel the power further.
I'm not sure how I'd go about keeping the insides of the box at a reasonable temperature. Vents would be one way, but it's not optimal. The good thing with a lack of airflow is that the fire will suffocate if it does burn, due to lack of oxidizers.
Trying to install plugins. I can get them and install them but they do not show up. The only one I can get to work is Themify. I changed the color and it looked ok but I change the color back and now every time I reboot it brings that color back even though I changed it to the original. All other plugins install but do not show up. The control panels show up and everything looks OK but like the Emergency stop button doesn't actually show up on the dashboard.
I follow your steps and it does not work. possible is my relay issue or my RPI issue? I am currently using RPI 3A+. I can see the PSU control icon on top but when I click on it, it gives me no signal at all.
Rate your relay properly.. Ender 3 PSU is capable of over than 20A on the 24V rail... use a 30A relay or fuse, non a 10A one!
Or use a 10A relay on the Mains side, at your own risk.
Agreed, I have updated.
Thanks mate ,great videos, great content, thank you
Hi, I am a little confused - I currently control my PSU via a TPLink Wifi outlet that I control with Octo Print. Is there a reason I would want to use PSU control with a relay, which seems to take quite a bit more setup, than the current WiFi plug setup I am running now? Thank you!!
great video
Octoprint used a long time but all of a sudden no IP available anymore, tried fixes and other pi's but no luck. So no access to Octoprint any more
Thank you for this as I have always been unsure of dedicating a RPI to the 3d printer.
Look at the PM2.5 particle sensor instead of the smoke detector as they are far more sensitive and some have heat sensors built in.
Link? Or at least a Name for a Sensor? I have only found the normale ones on mass, without the Heat Sensor, so a link would be nice...
I have a sonoff plug (controlled by home assistant) on my printer (cocoon create). It looks I'll be able to use 'temperature failsafe' to directly power down without psu control. I give that a try.
Greetings Michael,
I recently setup the PSU control in a Creality CR-X and I’ve noticed something strange. I chose to follow your configuration and fed the +24v through the NO side of the relay using a raspberry pi b3+ and octoprint. I ran a few tests and all seemed fine. I put the bottom cover back on and for some reason now I have no motor control. I noticed the boot screen was loading with ???? Where I’d normally see the printer firmware name. I know personal tech support isn’t an option but I think something may have impacted the stepper motor control on the board. Is there an easy way to establish if somehow the board is not sending signal to the motors?
Sorry, I’m a little perplexed. I have verified the supply voltage. BLTouch control works, heated bed and nozzle works, I’ve connected with Pronterface and don’t see anything abnormal. I can even control the fan on the print head but my extruders and x,y,z steppers will not make a sound when sending commands. Moving by hand is normal.
TIA
Awesome!
Thank you so much, your the man!
Great walkthru thank you! I appreciate the plug in information! Only had my Ender 3x a week and have been watching many of your videos to tweak it.
One question though. I am no electronics expert, but I have seen comments elsewhere that a single relay is not enough and can actually fry your Pi. Apparently when it looses power the Ender CPU will pull power from the USB cable from the Pi to the printer. This overloads and kills the Pi. I cannot prove or disprove it, but some sources are saying you need to cut the red wire in the USB cable you use to control your printer from the Pi so that it cannot siphon power. Have you had any experience with that or heard about it?
yes backfeeding power on the pi is a known issue. when the pi first came out people were having problems with usb hubs that allowed back feeding of power and they even had a pi usb hub made that specifically stopped that issue. as for the red wire i would double check it with a multimeter as not all usb cables use the same colour wires for the same pins. so even if you do have a red wire i would still check it.
How is your Ender 3x? Might get one soon, so wondering how it has been for you since you bought it?
With this setup the PSU is still receiving power though is it not? Why not setup a relay for the power headed directly to the PSU that way you can send an off command to kill all power to the Ender 3 and PSU?
Would you mind uploading the last part of the Ender 5 case? That STL is still missing. Thanks!
What is cheapest 3d printer would you recommend as the best option in terms of quality and that could be klipperized to get insane speed and quality? Is ender 3 good enough?
Nice just a few weeks ago I tried to find a video about this topic and couldn't find anything good. Looks like I am subscribed to the right channel! ;) Edit: Btw. have you looked into slicing via octoprint? Is this a valid option?
I really like your channel and thanks for all the tutorial. Any chance you can do a tutorial to add the buck convertor for an Ender 3 v2? I can't find any videos on the internet on this.
I updated my Ender 3 to the 1.15 silent board with BLtouch and Marlin 1.9 bug fix. When I send a print from Octo Print the Ender 3 acts stupid and prints garbage. I can take the same file and load it in to the printer using the SD Card and it will print fine. What did you change if anything in the firmware to yours to work so well?
Using a 10A relay is a serious problem. A 24V printer like the Ender 3 will have a max power draw of appx. 15A, and a 12V printer possibly twice that. You need to rectify this and pull the video until it is fixed, or risk people burning up their printers. IIRC you have the same problem with your Ender 3 rear mounted case.
had a print stop mid-print. The nozzle was in the plastic all night at 245c was printing modified abs glad it didn't catch fire as it was chared around the print where the nozzle stopped, what happened was one of the end stop plugs fell out. So i tapped the wires so they won't wiggle out
Thanks for the tips, I have a request is a plugin available to turn off the printer via a Sonoff wifi switch on completion of a print ????
I would like to know this also?
You could try flashing sonoff with tasmota and send a mqtt command to the sonoff after printing. Install a mqtt broker on the pi, or even better, home assistant in a docker container. Home assistant has a native octoprint integration
www.home-assistant.io/integrations/octoprint/
selfhostedhome.com/setting-up-octoprint-with-the-ender-3-and-home-assistant/
my attdmpt on controlling the power will be with the Bigtreetech relay board as it switches of power to the main PSU and have it controlled through the printer mainboard as it wilp still have 5V for the mcu through the raspberry pi
So hold up, if you use the power plugin it still reads the temps from the micro pushing the driver board and that registered 0' on it when it failed. This ideally would have a secondary sensor directly to the PI monitoring temp right?
How do you link "the spaghetti detective" with the "Exclude region" plugin? Some machine learning from the spaghetti detective could be used to learn which areas are to be printed but are now absent because they've come off the build plate or whatever. If it could feed that region into exlude region, you could have an auto-correcting system that just abandons an object if it thinks it's come off the build plate.
Edit: Spaghetti detector uses deep learning to detect strings. It should, by extension, be a doddle to detect major changes in the video frame, and where it is happening, if something comes unstuck.
I noticed that the Octoprint browser screen in the video is full width. I have tried adjusting the RasPi's screen resolution and searched for Plugin's and configuration settings to no avail. I know I'm missing something. Can anybody throw me a hint? Thanks.
I suppose You could also use the PSU switch to switch the hot end fan off when below 50 as well, my ender 3 drives me mad .... or is there a plugin that will do both with 2 relays?
looking good
Thank for another great video
Thanks for sharing :-)
Isn't the Exclude plugin the same as the cancel objects plugin? They both let you draw a box around the area you want/need to stop printing to.
I'm planning install psu control using AC instead DC and of course my raspberry pi powered using separate adapters, but i'm thinking to pick solid state relay instead normal relay so I wanna ask you guys is it safe using solid state relay?
Is the Spagetty Detector an extra server I have to set up or is it just like a PLUGIN for OctoPrint ?
Both. It does run on an external server but the plugin sends and revives the data to this.
@@TeachingTech Thx
What do you think about putting one of these fire extinguisher balls on a wall near a printer. Just in case something REALLY went wrong?
I'm... disappointed that Spaghetti Detective isn't open source. Can't wait for an open source data-set using OpenCV or something similar. Definitely not worth a monthly fee and privacy concerns. ***Correction: It seems you can run an open source version of the project, it simply isn't mentioned on the site. It also doesn't run on a pi, but I could work around that.***
1:08 print tine genius
3:12 Exclude region
all others are safety plugins, not needed for all printers, mine has them built in :)
can you use pin 27/29 of the stock ender 3 to use this relay?
without the Octoprint?
Question. Im doing the relay mod. I got the relay to work. I just wondering why you interrupt the mobo power wire instead of the main power so the psu also powers down. Side question: The pi powers the board via the usb cable, so Im not sure if the relay is off because the screen is still on.
maybe screen is powered through USB cable by raspi. Tape one pin in the USB connector and the screen goes off (google for instructions, it's out there)
Hi Michael. Great video again! How would you wire the relay for the einsy board? Using two relays? I am really unsure
Not Michael, but you would wire the second the same way, but instead connect the "signal" wire to a different GPIO pin in addition to the relay that was shown in the video. You would need to make up a splitter for the 5v and Gnd leads potentially though, depending on if you're using 2 individual relays or a single chip with 2 relays on board.
To use the +5V from the Raspberry is not a good idea. It is better to connect GND and +5V from a other source.
This relay setup will not protect systems that have external mosfets for the hotend or heated bed. They usually fail closed which would send power directly to the heaters regardless of the power state of the mainboard. To get around this you would need the relay to switch mains voltage.
my notifications for restart dont have a button to restart from octoprint, how do you get your notification to have that restart option?
I need some help. When i print using octoprint the print head moves all the way to the end of the print bed every time a level is finished. Not sure what is happening and how to fix this. can anyone please help
The notion that adding a smoke detector to increase safety is pretty silly. If something is smoking enough to trigger a smoke sensor - as you note -, it is probably too late anyway unless you are going to trigger a fire extinguisher.
Adding temperature sensors (DS18B20 for example) at strategic points and polling them by the Octopi to trigger a PSU shutdown is probably a better idea.
@@wboumans And hopefully most people already have those also for other purposes than burning 3D printers, that was not the point.
hey ,can i use parallel modules to later on up grade to dual extruders and z motors with the skr mini e3 ?thanks .
can someone tell me a good model name/number to a relay I should be looking for? I'm new to the hobby and not sure what I'm looking for. An amazon link would be great plz.
With the no-print rectangle think in z-height, Because it shows only one layer, if your part is bigger on top you have to account for that. I already had it happen that the no-print zone was to small for higher layers.
hey, i have a question. great video as always! when my printer has no power from the psu, but the raspi is connected via usb, then i also gets power from the raspi. but the display is very dark then and i dont really trust that situation. is the print cancled then or what? i mean with the relay mod. Thanks very much!
With the PSU disconnected, the printer's controller board draws its +5V power from the USB on the RasPi...which it really shouldn't, but that's a discussion for another day. Basically the only thing on the printer that still works is the electronics. The stepper motors, hot-end, and bed, are all without power.
@@Bakamoichigei okay. thnaks very much
I solve this by cutting open the mini-usb cable, and severing the red +5v line. (Cap/insulate the ends, because there's a ground sheath inside the cable.) I wanted to order a cable set up correctly, but while you can buy a power only cable that has no sync/data lines, I couldn't find a cable off-the-shelf for sale that had sync/data lines and NO power lines. A custom cable maker could whip one up for you easily.
Like you, I do not trust the Pi powering the the mainboard/display of the printer when the PSU is off. I also added the TL Smoothers, because they also prevent voltage generated by the stepper motors (when you move the print head while the unit is turned off, for instance) pushing back into the mainboard. Out of the box, you can actually get the display to light up by moving the print head, as the stepper motors will also generate (a small amount of) electricity when moved.
I want the mainboard to last, and the Pi to last as well, so eliminating these opportunities for surges and voltage bleed is a good investment.
@@markcartwright4491 okay. thank you. i saw a small adapter PCB on indie i think, which does exactly that. Have a nice sunday! :D
Psu control no longer works because of Python 3 incompatibility. Is there an alternative?
Awesome video, do you have a thingi verse link to that case ?
Haven't tried it yet but I'm thinking of using the OctoPrint-TPLinkSmartplug plugin which talks to a wifi enabled wall socket plug. Then my printer will be powered on/off at the wall by octoprint which is powered separately. Basically a wifi enabled version of what I do now which is power on my printer through a switch enabled power board. Anyone tried the wifi socket method?
For Temperature Failsafe in curl better to use localhost instead of ip.
Hi Michael Something strange, My ender stopped comunicating via USB port: "Error: Failed to autodetect serial port, please set it manually." I tested the board with 3 diferent Octoprint installations, including one on my notebook, changed 3 usb cables, and nothing.... could it be the USB port on the board itself? any fix? .... I'm thinking on changing the board with the Fysetc Cheetah , it is plug&play , 32 bit, it includes Marlin 2.0 , the 2208's, and a few other things, do you know something about it?
Did you do anything or change anything between it working and not working?
@@ingy23 Nothing, just plug in and out my octopi
I'd love to see a comparison of klipper with stock melzi board and marlin with 32bit board, I've heard that klipper is faster and yields better results, but it was just some people that said that without any testing
You really should use a ferrule when using screw terminals