Fluid Film Review After 3 Years and Woolwax Vs. Fluid Film Testing.
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- Опубликовано: 3 ноя 2020
- My thoughts on Fluid Film after 3 years on 2 different trucks and testing Woolwax vs. Fluid Film.
Products that I used in the video:
Fluid Film Aerosol: amzn.to/2CXsJ4i
Fluid Film Liquid: amzn.to/2PMIoGL
Woolwax Aerosol: amzn.to/2TSZ0jN
Woolwax Liquid: amzn.to/34W4Reg
Spray Gun (professional): amzn.to/2PIohJD
Spray Gun (standard): amzn.to/2R3yAIp
Air Compressor: amzn.to/2S83kcx
In case you want to drill holes here are plugs: amzn.to/2HJTE1W
Respirator: amzn.to/2poC9g5
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Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
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My dad's 2017 Colorado Z71has been sprayed once a year every year. My 2017 Colorado ZR2 has been sprayed twice a year spring and fall. I will show you guys the results of 3 years of Fluid Film and I am also going to do a comparison test of Fluid Film and Woolwax. I removed all of the Fluid Film on certain sections of my truck and some parts will be sprayed with Fluid Film and others will be sprayed with Woolwax. I will have the results for you next fall.
Questions? Shoot me an email at repairgeek365@gmail.com
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user Repair Geek makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. Repair Geek shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by Repair Geek and therefore, Repair Geek does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge Repair Geek or anyone affiliated with Repair Geek, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. 
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Products used in this video:
Surface Shield Gallon: amzn.to/2YpscVq
Surface Shield 5 Gallon: amzn.to/30rrrvK
Surface Shield Aerosol: amzn.to/3BIUgk8
Fluid Film: amzn.to/3mQbiZy
Woolwax: amzn.to/3wmpbS1
Professional Spray Gun: amzn.to/3bIN9gX
Aerosol Can Spray Handle: amzn.to/3EUpE1b
Graffiti Adapters for Blaster Cans (only needed for older male top cans): amzn.to/3CPi5rX
Inner Cavity Spray Wand for Aerosol: amzn.to/3T8gmVZ
Wireless Borescope: amzn.to/3CPdCoV
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same
after 740k miles on my hard body I ony had to replace the exhaust system twice.
So do you think one can spray the fluid film out of cans without lifting the truck and do a good job? I don’t have access to lifting my truck easily.
just use wd40
Any comparision to Corrosion Free Rust Cure 3000?
I play golf with the owner and founder of a company that has a ceramic primer that is being used by very large companies to prevent rust and corrosion. He is close to releasing a new product for small shops that is amazing.
I will send you a sample when it's done. Send your address
You are a stand up guy. I appreciate your honesty and transparency. This project has immense value 👍🏾
"I have a lift and I'm going to use it". I would do the same darn thing. Thanks for documenting this entire project!
Thanks for this awesome long term test, perfect timing before I take mine to the shop for Fluid Film treatment.
Awesome content, my man, I hope you keep it up. We have similar freeze, salt, thaw cycles up here in Manitoba. Driving a new truck through it makes me want to cry.
Great idea. Can’t wait to see how it turns out next year. Thank you.
Incredible analysis and detail - not just on product, but how things work. No other channel explains this great !
This is prob the best documented rust prevention I have seen on the web. I'm planning on getting a new 4runner or taco and will be going with fluid film for sure. my buddy swears by this stuff as we are in the rust belt as well (Ohio). Great job 👍🏻
Appreciate your experience and knowledge. I use ff with a harbor freight electric sprayer, rattle cans for the internals with the 2 foot 360°sprayer, and brush grease on the easily washed off components.
Hey that looks excellent. I’ve been involved in rust proofing many years and without anything that frame would by now have numerous rust issues.
I live in South TX and don't need rust proofing to vehicles here..but promptly have been following you for 3 years on your updates. Will eagerly wait for your 2021 edition and can't wait to see the comparison results and the health of your truck bottom. BTW, Your truck bottom looks awesome! I do use fluid film on my garden shovels, lawn mower underside, garage door springs, office chair and anywhere rust & squeak can be a problem. Good Stuff!
Great video! Thanks for using your truck as a guinea pig, it has been very helpful.
I just purchased a 2021 Tacoma and want to apply the FF. Your video really helped in my choice of products to use. I look forward to the review next year. Thank you.
I just purchased one too I'm trying to make the same decision
Man , I am in the Highlands of Scotland. Just got a new Ranger Raptor.
Thanks to you a know what to use under my Raptor There is nobody else on RUclips comparing a product for so many years. I lot of new products but do they really work.
In your videos I can see the proof.
Thank you for your help
All the best from Scotland 🏴
Try Bilt Hamber. I live in Scotland too and have used it since new on my van.
Really great video; thanks for the thoroughness!
With regard to the weather stripping, I expect that if you were to treat the rubber with something like Sil-Glyde before it comes into contact with the Fluid Film, it will probably be far more resistant to the swelling effects. Fully agree with your assessment of the value and trade-off between protecting the car and protecting the rubber seals.
I’ve been searching for these answers for awhile man! Thank you for taking the time to review these products. I think my 16 super duty will be getting fluid film!
Try nhoil
Impressive results! Thank you for excellent test!
Thanks bro , new to salt climate In Illinois...learned about it on east coast mechanic channel and learning
Great update. I now associate the smell of Woolwax in my garage with rust protection. Funny I can even smell it outside in parking lots as I’m walking up to my vehicle too.
I had a shop do my first application earlier this year. Going to try and pick up a WW spray gun and canister kit to do the next application myself. Not looking forward to the mess since I’ll be applying it with the CUV on ramps (or jack stands).
Doing something to slow or prevent rust constantly is the most important. I appreciate the objective presentation. I love woolwax more as the smell doesn't bother me as much as FF, but it has its drawbacks as well as its a bit thick.
You’re the man for addressing the bias issue. You just got a new subscriber just because of that
Great video! All your rust "proofing" videos are just fantastic. Thanks a lot. I'm probably spraying my car with FF soon!
I use both Woolwax and Fluid Film. I used the Woolwax kit with gun and 360°nozzle. I applied it after and onto a coating of Fluid Film. The inner panels of front fenders and bed sides got coated with Woolwax. Inside all doors and posts got coated in Fluid Film. Fluid Film gets more use because it is a thinner product and it is constantly moving on the metal. Every oil change I drag a hose and the spray gun for touch ups and a can of Fluid Film for the same reason.
It stops rust. If you already have surface rust, clean it up and coat it. It’s done, dead. The black is awesome on chassis parts, looks real sharp.
Thanks for keeping the honestly with free oil. Us viewers appreciate it. Hope you get more people on your channel !!
Thank you. We are applying fluid film today on our vehicles.
Hi Mr repair geek
Wow after 3 winters , it looks great.
I just bought new Ridgeline, I will do oil base under coating because I want to keep the truck then move to Florida with in 3 years.
Liked your video, stay safe young man, thanks.
Fluid Film was developed in 1943 for the US Navy for rust control in double bottom ships.
Great product been using it for years; over the road tractor trailer, automotive, marine, farm and more!!!
Cosmoline was also developed to prevent guns from rusting in the military. Look into that
@@jaygee6983 Cosmoline used to be used on BMW engines for transporting across the ocean to the US for delivery. It had to be removed on port entry though or the heat of the engine would bake it into an ugly yellow color. Ask me how I know ;)
Nice, these videos inspired me to get it done on my 4Runner last year. I’m glad I found something to keep it from rotting. I’ll be doing it myself from now on if time allows. That spray gun is legit. Awesome coverage.
As someone else who lives in northeast Ohio, and used to have a 2018 Silverado... I can tell you from experience that your truck looks 100% cleaner than mine did. I washed it religiously, utilizing the laser washes under carriage sprays that we have around here, and it still started rusting pretty bad. Buddy of mine just had the bed off his 2017 gmc Sierra to strip and re coat the frame for the same reason
So yes, clearly this stuff works lol. Thanks for the video updates. I see I should have done this from the start when I had that truck, and will be doing it on my ram here soon
Awesome video. Your exactly right. Wool wax is a great product for outside frame protection, but won’t creep like fluid film. I’ve personally seen fluid film creep 2-4” from where it was sprayed originally. Quite impressive. Wool wax pretty much stays where it’s sprayed which is good for wear resistance but poor for inside doors/rockers etc.
So, woolwax on the exposed parts and fluid film in the hard to reach places. Best of both worlds.
Thanks for these updates. Just purchased some wool wax and spray cans of fluid film. Looks like I'll be using the fluid film in any areas that have folded welds. Thanks for the tip.
My experiance has been when you reach 4 or 5 coats of fluid film it turns in to a beautiful heavy salt proof film...the more coats over time the better....eventually rusty surfaces turn a dull black
They make a black fluid film
I put on three coats. Seemed great at first. But then came the sand and soot. Which soaked up the oil and dried out the fluid film and then it chipped off in huge chunks all over the garage floor. I learned its everything in moderation including fluid film
Bondo....yes they only call for 3 mil coats......i have 6 coats on my 97 rav,all good
Bondo....yah do 1 coat per year.....
Horrible abusive company that
disrespects
DIYers
Killer job on the in-depth update.
Thank you for this! You did a fine job and lut a lot of effort into your video and comparo. I feel it is accurate and fair as can be.
Great video, I switched to New Hampshire Oil Undercoating on my Tundra and Land Cruiser. We will see how it goes. My 2003 Tundra gets treated at the actual NHOU location and I have seen the owner walking around. Decent Product, I wish there was a fluid film or NHOU that had graphene to repel the water and provide insane chemical resistance.
While nothing can prevent rust, FF sure can slow it down!! I have a 2012 F350, a WI truck that I have had for a year and there were some rust spots starting underneath that I hit last year with FF, and the rust did not grow. Yeah. I gave it another coat in September, including the front bumper that is spotted with rust from rock chips. Will see next year if there is any more growth, but feel pretty confident that the FF will keep it from rusting more during the bad winter weather. Wool Wax is heavier bodied and comes in black. Going to try it next year.
Interesting 3 yr update. I personally use lps3. Anything is better than nothing though so pick your flavor. Fluid film and a couple cosmoline based products all seem to do a good job
I appreciate your honesty in all of these videos. They were a big reason why I went with FF for my 4Runner for the NJ winter. 👍🏻
How well did it do? Can you spray on to surfaces with rust already on it? I live in pa and wanna prep my 1980 pinto for winter
@@speedyboi4623 yes...the more scale you remove the better...if its light surface rust it will turn black over the years and multiple coats.... coats
@@speedyboi4623 Sorry, I just saw your post. I had a mechanic spray it on. I think I will make it a yearly event, trying to do it myself at some point. I think if you watch all of his videos he says you can put it on surfaces with rust.
@@mikeformisano9728 your good man! Thanks👍
Mike
I live in NJ also. Did you apply FF yourself or have it done somewhere? If you had a shop apply would you mind sharing what shop.
I think CRC corrosion inhibitor is the best stuff you can get. Fluid Film may be better for penetrating difficult spots but CRC holds up super well.
Dang dude that's awesome I live in NW Pa and this truck looks great.
I use that stuff religiously. Surface shield is good as well. I bought a kit with a spray gun. I do mine twice a year. Had mine 3 years some of the guys at work are doing it and I’m showing them how to do it. Very easy process just got to know what the most important areas are to spray. I used to just spray everywhere but now I don’t as much. Rocker panels and underneath the bed and axles and suspension inside tail gates and underneath door and underneath the bottoms of doors and wheel wells. Nice thing about this stuff doesn’t hurt your clear coat.
What are your personal conclusions on LPS 3? You seamed keen on it last year and in your comparisons, But not so much now. Also I've searched for hours, your videos are the best most complete, and objective videos on rust proofing anywhere on the internet hands down.
I had my 2016 Chevy Silverado 2500HD sprayed with fluid film 2017,sprayed on crazy thick with a airless gun in 2018, and sprayed now/touch up. The underside still looks brand new underneath. 👍 woolwax is also good but maybe too thick for the cavities like you said. 👍
I tend to disagree with it being too thick for the cavities. I heated mine up with a propane heater in the gallon jug and just filled the quart bottles up for the pro gun as i went along. with the 360 degree nozzle and the extension wand you can hit every square inch of your underbody and not miss anything. if you spray a lot it does tend to run so I dont think that's really a problem if you do it correctly
On the high exposure areas, get some aerosol cans of crc marine corrosion control, and hit with that. Like the ebrake cable adjuster, etc. It congealed to a nice wax that encapsulates it. Works a treat. I use both ff and crc.
Can you put that on top of undercoating?
@@Coyote-wm5op I’m sure you can, don’t know how effective it would be. Undercoating is really terrible stuff, not good for much. It always fails.
I've been using FF on my 2019 Silverado Duramax and haven't seen a speck of rust so far. Fluid Film is good stuff. Only downfall is it makes the factory GM wax coating on the frame really really soft and smudge off when touched or rubbed
The water that sprays up on the freeway doesn't kill your wiring. Just don't go full throttle on connections. I dot 5-6 times a year and I got 231,000 miles on my chevy. Its so ridiculous to think your gonna destroy your wiring harness. Just spray some degreaser under there and wash it off with your green tip. It's 100% fine.
Thanks for all the detail in the video, FF is amazing. What pressure washer do you use? Is it electric?
Appreciate your videos as I try to decide what to spray on my vehicles. I think I'm going to use a few cans of CRC in the small, tougher areas and the NHOU clear for the major areas. I would have never tried the CRC cosmoline spray without your testing video. BTW kerosene and a rag removes cosmoline although it is flammable. My opinion is that your side by side comparison of Woolwax vs. Fluid film is flawed from the beginning. Road salt here in Maine is not evenly dispersed on the roads. Municipalities tend to pour the calcium on the yellow line. This make underbody corrosion on the drivers side MUCH worse than the passenger side. Maybe your state is different. Keep up the good work!
Now I wish I had been coating my vehicles twice a year! Good videos
Thanks for the update,
Try using a dry wax spray such as Amsoil HD Metal protector [2-3 coats for the wheel well area]. Takes a few hours to dry, then apply fluid film over it. This combination held up well in Chicago weather.
Thats just comoline with an amzoil markup.
12:35
Great work there lad, alot of information and no bull. I have been spraying my 80 series with heated chain oil and wax for years and works great when the dirt builds up on it. But I now want to treat the underside of a 71 challenger with a lanolin based product, do you think its worth while treating the cleaned down frame (not rot just surface rust) with a rust converter before applying the lanolin? Or a waste of time!! Appreciate your thoughts, all the best from the north West of Ireland.
Great video! I recommend trying XCP Rust Blocker. I think it's better than Fluid Film. It lasts longer and cleans rusty areas.
Woolwax is amazing for the underside of vehicles much better than fluid film in my opinion. I still use fluid film in the rockers, doors, hood, trunk lid etc.
You can mix your rust protection with vegetable oil to thin it as well. Got it from wool wax instructions.
Try spraying graphite lubricant on your exhaust. I've used it on turbo exhaust housings and exhaust manifolds and it holds up to those temps. You have to re-apply it occasionally but you could hit it every year you are under there anyways. Just a thought, never tried it myself on exhaust, but it might work.
Hey man, great videos! Do you worry about or have issues with the brakes after spraying fluid film all over the backing plates etc? Also, when you spray in the door panels do you every have electrical issues or anything? Thanks!!
Thank you very much for your work with these products, its been very helpful. Im sorry if you have already covered this subject, but im going to ask the question, what have you used on oil pans? I have had two trucks in a row now that have had unacceptable amount of rust to the point where they needed to be replaced in 6 year period. our new truck im going to be applying the Fluid film to, but due to the heat, I don't believe it will work on the oil pan? I was considering grease? What would you suggest?
I recently bought 3 gallons of Woolwax, black and clear to treat my cars. Maybe I'll get a little fluid film to do inside stuff now. WIsh woolwax would creep better but it's better for the undercarriage than inside stuff.
I agree, as good as it gets in the snow belt in NE Ohio, unless ya park it for the Winter. I’m from Trumbull Country!
5:00 I appreciate the insight about effects on rubber
So I recommend using silicone paste on the rubber seals before doing you lower doors...that will help keep the rubber from doing the swelling - silicone protecting it....rub it in good and it should help...
Sweet! Was waiting for this video. Thanks! :)
Did you fluid film your pressure washer nozzle and lift before pressure washing those areas of your truck? Gotta’ make sure everything is rust protected. :)
On my FF and woolwax test I did last winter. Woolwax held up much better on raw steal. It definitely is thicker so I guess that has something to do with it.
I believe it calls for a 3 mil thicknes when applied,although i can,t see where more will hurt
Swear by FF. Brought to you by Northern Canada. Always look near new come spring.
I fluid film my 2dr Rubicon every year since i bought it before it ever saw salt...stuff just plain works, it does wear off in high-wash areas, but i reapply every fall anyway. She looks brand new underneath, and youd have no idea it has spent the last 4 winters so salty its white from top to bottom (the jeep is black lol). The nice thing is if i want to work on it and not deal with the mess, I can wash it off with degreaser, and just reapply. And since i do it every year, it gets easier, and its more like giving it a quick touch up, the areas that dont see water, look like fresh fluid film still...I just tried the black fluid film on my '10 F150 (with 270k miles), and the black really does look much better.
Oh yes there is. You can use high temp oven paint. It’s made for fireplace mantles etc. I’ve painted a fireplace mantle that gets red hot coals against it almost all the time during winter. That paint wouldn’t have an issue being on that muffler. Maybe over time but it’d take a while.
When was the last time you dumped salt water and brine on your mantle?
Looks good. I’m in Florida and my F1 is ate up. Still running excellent though
Thanks for the great info vids. Taking mine to a guy (with a lift and warm garage) for Fluid Film, but then I'm thinking CRC Marine for those high impact areas like axle and shoes. In that case, would you recommend avoiding those areas with the Fluid Film? I saw you spraying CRC over top of previous years Fluid Film, so...? Not seeing anything online about whether they can go on top of each other or not. Maybe doing the CRC first would be best...
This year I hit my rust with metal prep and etch (phosphoric acid) prior to fluid film. So far seems like a good idea. Not a new truck though. I really enjoy your videos. Thanks
what I plan for my GS.. drove her 1 day last winter and all the paint underneath got eaten, been there for nearly 50 years without winter use, and 1 drive in 1 winter ate most of it off.. have some ospho was going to brush on and let dry before using this as well... too much work to blast, epoxy etc for this old man...
@@craiggerlach5548 I wouldn't epoxy but you should think about maybe blasting with walnut shell media to remove any remaining paint. If one exposure to winter caused it to fail, it was likely already failing. Also, I like 2 applications of phosphoric acid a few days apart, I used a pump sprayer in order to get inside of frame rails etc. Good luck with your project
I wonder if you could mix ff with prep and etch to spray on the rusty areas to convert the rust to the black iron phosphate and seal from future corrosion all in one
Yes my 2011 f150 mini restoration I sprayed everything chassis frame floor bed door bottoms lines crossmembers with metal prep from Rona called rust buster it was about $8.99 a liter . I also added some it to my first thinned oil coats and to my final thicker oil mixture which I added some asphalt liquid foundation coating to blacken it and provide better wash off protection .
@@craiggerlach5548 wash under side and frame under hood with power washer to remove all traces of salt first . Or even plain water also could get a hose attachment that has a cup for soap with extended sprayer nozzle . Then phosphoric acid /metal prep spray on you can mix 50 50 with water using a small garden sprayer sprayer. Leave the acid water mix on the metal frame chassis let it dry and repeat dont wash it off . If rust is totally gone you could paint with black primer then I would oil under coat every thing .I have a 1976 vette i never winter drive owned for 40 years. I oil undercoat the vette ever 2- 3 years the frame inside and out even drilled 1/2 inch holes and plastic plugs in closed in sections ,frame is mint .
I think u should use FF for inside/hidden areas & woolwax on exposed H20 sites
I live in az, my truck has never left the state from new . No salts no moisture. That looks better than mine.👍😎
Woolwax and Fluidfilm are both solid products, however in some applications Woolwax is a better product.
I maintain a fleet of around 10 medium duty and light duty (one ton) trucks. These truck work in extreme environments and are subject to highly corrosive conditions, in fact we have a dedicated lift for corrosion protection application. I have tested many different products for corrosion and rely on Woolwax at this point.
First, Woolwax does seep into all small tight places, the reason that a liquefied version is sold is so that the product can be applied with lower temps. If its under 60 degrees when you use Woolwax and it isn't going to get over 70 for the year you may want to use the thinner Woolwax for inside doors and body, however we never do, instead we just warm up the Woolwax then apply it.
The main difference in Woolwax vs Fluidfilm is Woolwax is thicker and stays on longer. If you try and pressure wash both you will see the Woolwax stays on much better (also WW has a black tint option, fluid film didnt when we last used it).
If you use Fluidfilm you need to spray yearly, for most folks you can do Woolwax every other year or even longer.
If you are serious about corrosion protection and you follow these directions you will not get any serious rust on your equipment. We have equipment over 10 years old that look nearly as good as new.
1. Pressure wash the complete area you are going to treat.
2. Using a 1/4 hose flush all small compartments throughout the chassis or area you are going to treat. Repeat this until absolutely no signs of dirt are left. Let dry completely.
3. Use a product such as CRC corrosion inhibitor to go over any areas that are already showing rust, repeat.
4. Remove all body plugs including in the doors. Apply Woolwax or Fluidfilm in these body areas (for most cars and trucks this is a one time application). Put your plugs back in.
5. Spray the rest of the chassis or equipment your treating, make sure to go slow and spray from different angles. On a medium duty truck or pick up I use anywhere from 2 quarts (previously treated truck chassis), to 1 gallon on a chassis that has never been treated.
Remember if you are going through the work to do this take your time and prep the equipment properly, take your time applying the product so that you get all areas.
The first application takes 2 days (one day for prep and drying) another 2 hours for a new application. Following the first years application it takes me about 1 hour reapply Woolwax each season, about 2 hours from fluidfilm.
Internal frame rust on my jeep. Should I convert the rust after knocking the loose rust. Or just fluid film. Outside of frame is great
Something funky is going on with these two companies. I ordered the Fluid Film spray gun, and with it came 3 bottles to use with it. Each bottle has the Wool Wax logo on it.
Because one of the developers of Fluid Film, went and started making Woolwax. They might be owned by same company
Rockers rust from the inside out may be an idea to shove the spray inside the rockers as best as you can
Nice... exhaust can be replaced a lot cheaper than a frame ! Nice result. I think the FF is in my future.
Thank u for all ur videos on fliud film. Im in my late 60's & WISHED I had a rack, too old plus not as good of a job I could DO. So I went to an undercoating shop near me & he uses FF. Sounds to me that woolwax would be better on jst wheel wells. Whats ur opinion on RP342? Both suspensions look great/great job! I live next door/PA. 😁
I am wondering whether a selenide coating would be thermally stable and prevent further corrosion.
Any concerns about fluid film acting as a penetrating oil and allowing important bolts to loosen with time and vibration?
I have used fluid film for about 4 years now and very happy I just ordered 5 gallons of black to do my old rusty cars hope to cover the rust and look better. I hope I doesn't take me to long to clean up the mess
What do you use to apply the fluid fim
@@johnmcbride69 I use a wool wax spray gun I bought on amazon it was a kit that came with everything you need
I would say woolwax is way better also been using both for ages, woolwax creeps when it’s warm. I’ve had it still leaking out of plugs a year later. Also seems to handle the wash areas way better. Fluid film didn’t even last me 6 months in any area that saw slush, water. The woolwax is still 90% there a year later, also doesn’t stink for 2 weeks plus.
Wow. That’s impressive. Winter is hard on vehicles.
Coat the weather striping and any other rubber with silicone grease aka dielectric grease to protect it.
Excellent work have been following couple years now, thanks again👍🏽
I do have a question, sorry if it has been asked already. Do you recommend pressure washing the Fuid Film, dirt and salt off the bottom of the vehicle every spring? Or should i just let the old stuff be, and give it a new coat lighter coat over the old stuff?
I just keep spraying over the old.
I have a question. In the winter, after driving on treated roads, do you still wash the underside of your truck , or will that remove the FF that was sprayed in the fall. I'm currently redoing the bed of a 2011 Sierra, and am seriously considering the use of FF. Thanks.
Enjoy the videos, thank you for the info my question is how do the coatings react when you have to make repairs. Do either coatings make it more difficult to disassemble and reassemble components?
The vehicle is dirtier but nothing is rusty. Would you rather deal with dirt or frozen fasteners?
Hi love the information provided here what are your thoughts on using a rust converter like interstate products 1 step rust converter and folling up with fluid film? 03 ram daily driver northern NJ. Is this overkill?
Have you ever cut the wool wax with kerosene? We have and it thins it out nice . Makes it sprayable Then the Kerosene dissipates .
I use a 5 gallon of black fluid film, with a pressure spray gun and paint brush for the first time. Coated as much superficial rust as I could.
Based on your 3 year study, I selected FluidFilm to undercoat a 1988 Classic Mini (fully restored a few years back). Though I don't drive it in winters, rarely in rain even, I want to do what I can to help preserve it. Got the 1 Gal can of FF on sale and used less than 10/th of that on the little mini! Should be good for another nine yrs of undercoats !
Minis can rust from the inside out due to zero protection from the factory without even trying. Using FF will be the best thing
does your state salt the roads? great job... beautiful truck !! love this channel
Yes salt and brine.
what do you think of the fluidfilm vs the proform gel spray? I have used the gel spray for a few years, but kind of question how long it really stays on the underside....
I dont mess with any lanolin products. Wash off in my state. Cosmolene only Amsoil PMD is some good stuff. Try taking it off once you apply it lol
Thanks for your informative videos. It’s too bad it takes a year to get updates on the progress of the rust prevention study! I’m in NY and salt is used a lot. Have you considered doing something like your “telephone pole” test at the beginning, but use a salt water bath to accelerate rust on test specimens? I also admire your honesty and concern using free product. I think if you disclosed that, but showed side by side test results, your viewers could accept the results.
Exactly!
Whoa....I considered using woolwax instead of fluidfilm but lack of pinch-weld penetration is a deal breaker for me. Fluidfilm's ability to migrate across surfaces is also what makes it work so well.The fact you're talking about pinch-welds also tells me to probably know what you're talking about. Good to know.
NH oil migrates a lot better!
@@josepires4345 How does it stand up to road spray? Does it wash off easily? I'm willing to try something different if it works better.
Repair Geek, Which is the best rust protection/prevention for cars that have existing rust?
Run paint tarps around your truck for the overspray and get some CRC on there. It's so much better of a protectant. Essentially make a pait booth under your truck with the tarps.
Crc does not creep meaning if you miss any internal cavities on the initial application it will not creep into the areas you missed.
@ 5:50 Would stretching Cling Film over all rubber parts
Coming into contact with Fluid Film...?