Repair Rusted Body Panels without welding using 3M Bonding Adhesive
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- Опубликовано: 26 окт 2021
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I was very hesitant to upload this video as I know this repair is nontraditional. Some keyboard warriors are going to say this is the wrong way to address this repair and albeit I don't disagree, this repair should hold up just fine. We will do 6 month followups after this truck gets painted and see how well it holds up. If for some reason it fails, we will weld a patch in and show you how a repair shop would of addressed it.
Don't worry, most of those comments will come from people that have been experts in auto repair for the last 175 years. You know, they come home from a long days work at the auto repair shop and look up auto repair on the youtube!! hahah Looks great to me! (and I'm an expert in repairing truck floors with beer cans and sheet metal screws!) Looking forward to your next video!
Hey man, dont be so hard on yourself. I dont weld, and I'm on a budget. This is fuel for some if the small rust repairs I have on my squarebody. I really appreciate you. Looking for th next video from you as I hit subscribe.
Never fear to post videos. It's your repair.. And i hate grinding welds also.
As an autobody tech, i can confirm we do this more often than you would think
That'll hold just fine. I've zip tied, twist tied, aluminum taped, riveted, and Bondo ragged lots of beaters to stretch a vehicle and a buck. Good job.
Love this. This is exactly what I want to do with my repair. I visualised something similar to this rather than $$$$ repairs from a welder n new sheet metal and the towing expenses included to get rolling body to shop, Thankyou! Ima try this and yes.. it will work. I’ve seen it with my own 2 eyes now.
I REALLY LIKE THAT because as you know we have our 1951 Chrysler and most of the floor is really rusted. We found new panels but the floor around the panels are rusted and I don't think the metal is solid enough to hold the weld. You just gave me a GREAT idea for putting in the new floor panels.
That job came out nice, and all that matters is YOU'RE HAPPY with the outcome of ANYTHING you do on YOUR channel, keep up the great work, and looking forward to the corners!
I've never used the 3M panel bond glue before, but "this guy's garage" posted that he has used it in the past when he worked for a dealership and used it to attach quarter and roof panels. That 51 is a gem! I can't wait to see what you do with it!!!
@@1D10CRACYCan I use 3M adhesive to install new truck bed panels on my 1979 f150?! Will it work?!
Thanks for posting this man! Well done!
That came out fantastic! Well done!
I'm interested to see how the 3M panel adhesive holds up! I started to weld the patch in and changed my mind. It seemed like a good place to test it! If it fails, it will not be a big deal to weld a patch in and I would only have to repaint the roof.
This is exactly what I was planning to fill in my sunroof hole. Between this and Lakeside Auto Body's channel, I'm 99% it will be fine for a 23 year old economy car. lol
Yea, that is going to hold up for a long while. Good stuff
Seems worthwhile.... thank you for sharing
Did you bevel the edges of either the roof or the skin in order to have a smoother transition? Or is the seam essentially just filled w cat hair then bondo? I have an antenna mount hole I want to fill and have been trying to figure out the best way. I want to avoid welding due to warp. Also, how is this holding up?
Thank you
Another great video!
This particular repair is on the roof so it won't be too noticable plus the light may help hide any imperfections. Very well done, great video.
How effective would you thing this would be on a plan pan section
I've seen this method but with rivets instead of glue, but only for places where you can not see, such as floors and trunk.
This will hold up just fine, if I were going to do many repairs like this I would invest in some clecos instead of the pop rivets. Just for time saving
I don’t know how to weld and I need to put lower patch panels on a truck. Looks like a good way to do it.
Very helpful,thank you
Good job!
great video. I have a question. I want to patch a 2"x2" on the middle of the door and don't want to weld it. For such a small piece I don't want to invest in expensive adhesive, the gun that goes with it and etc. what do you think If I use JB weld instead of the 3M bonding Adhesive?
Nice demonstration of a new-to-me method. A possible variation for less build-up with the cat hair: Make the patch match the hole, then bond strips around the edges on the undersides, using rivets to hold everything just the way you did. Think it would work?
@Rick Rose. - You brought up good questions. I was visiting a body tech that I worked with at a dealer. I was a service tech but he was in the body shop. He was doing the same thing on a non structural part. Using the 3M panel bond and flanged the panel to be repaired. Both ground clean of paint, primer and any coatings. First, the off-set made by the flange tool made it almost flush. The panel bond contains glass beads to keep the final thickness even plus welding was done with a MIG welder using a spot weld tip only while the panel bond is liquid, with identical holes. But the big difference is applying the planet bond! It is to be spread flat around the contact area then a bead ran down the center for complete coverage. Then push hard to spot weld followed by cavity wax. No thru holes left when done but if open, instead of DTM with acid use an epoxy spray over patch. He told me dynaglass is a water tight coating that seals the patch. Even sanded to 1/8th thick was sealing plus strength.
There is nothing wrong with the repair shown but at a collision shop, providing the latest materials combined with best practices provide them a life-time repair.
Good, tight vid with excellent info. Particularly the pause on the 3M epoxy product code.
One point to help users out with: add a few solid seconds of pretty much nothing at the end of the vid so the viewer can hit pause before auto-play grabs things and rustles your vid out the door. Maybe a 5 second black sceen saying "Thanks for watching" or similar. Surprise termination should be avoided if possible.
Thanks for this vid!
3m panel bond will outlast that cab garuntee. Next time skip the rivets and get magnets to hold while two-part cures. Rest of job is spot on. That chemical bonding agent holds more than most cars built in last 20 years together from factory that are still on road. There are two main compounds and you picked correctly as that is Fords 3m agent. And bonus, it's sandable. Eight times the cost of JB weld, but is the forever fix. JB would hang on for a few years then need touching up if in vibrating area.
you would not believe how much that sound deadener helps
The last time I did a vinyl floor the cab noise increased a lot. It is amazing how much carpet silents some of the noise. Hopefully the deadener helps, but the truck has a 7.3 and is naturally a bit on the loud side. I honestly am not expecting much but figured it would be fun to try!
For a medium size patch like this one I think this is a good solution. Is there a reason (other than not wanting to get the epoxy on them) you didn't use Cleco's instead of rivets?
I used the panel bonding adhesive myself for a truck quarter panel and followed all the instructions to a T. It lasted about 2 1/2 years and then started to separate but only in high flex areas. Now i am faced with the prospect of trying to take the panel out, get rid of the adhesive and then weld it in like i should have. Ah well, live and learn.
Something went wrong then. This stuff has a high sheer strength. I've never seen it just come loose. That sucks though. By the way, it comes loose at about 400° if you're curious.
i have used this panel bond when i worked at dealerships ,installed quarter panels roof panels . the metal will tear its actually stronger than a spot weld
That is good to know, I've never used it before and thought I'd give it a try!
Really appreciate that info Shaun because the Saratoga floors are pretty bad, and I don't think the metal is strong enough to weld in the new panels!!
@@OnlineAutoRepairVideos no a problem but there's a hitch the metal has to be clean to take hold. Why don't you get some pictures to me so I can see what you are dealing with. You don't want to make it worse for sure 👍
@@thisguysgarage Oh I am definitely going to as much rust as possible first. I'll be posting before, during, and after pictures of the floor in the community
Can you please share the links or product brands where you got the Vinyl floor, the soundproof material and the fiber glass? Thanks.
Some of the products used are in the description. The soundproof material is made by Kilmat, you can find it on Amazon. I don't remember where I got the flooring from, but if you Google "2001 F350 vinyl floor" lots of options come up.
howd that hold up over the time and truck use ? i imagine its fine
Today you would still never know it had been repaired. It looks just as good as it did when I repaired it.
so how did it hold up? did it ghost through after painting? usually using it this way will cause a ghost image to show once painted after a few months of sun
No ghosting. Still looks perfect and the truck sits outside in the weather.
Nice
This would have been an ideal opprtunity to make a flange on the metal piece before glueing it in. That way the surface would have been flush.
That absolutely would of worked well. And if this ever fails, I may do a video showing how to do just that. But I expect this fix will outlast the truck.
I agree make it a little easier bondo, I have put roof skins in with that glue it worked good just got to be clean and clamped good, but about the sleeve you talking about I put complete roofs and the structure and down on the post I cut the inside about 6 inches from outside instead of trying to butt weld it makes it stronger, when I put quarter panels in I put a sleeve where the quarter meets the post then you can make it flush, don't have to overlap
Sure wish your video’s were longer
Ill tell you something... I redid some parts of my Mustangs floor pans using nothin but JB Weld and Lepage Premium Adhesive 3X Stronger, Bondo and covered the new material with POR-15 and it is still holding super strong ! People had told me to use rivets which I did not and nothing has moved ! Nothing ! Would I go bak on this route ? You bet I would !
Yup! No reason it wouldn't work, as long as you remove / prep all the rust and keep everything protected. The rivets in this case just helped bend the metal around the roof of the truck and kept it there until the adhesive cured. I also drilled out the rivets after it cured because they were aluminum and I didn't want the dissimilar metals to corrode. The roof of the truck still looks like new, so I'd probably do it again if needed. :D
@@1D10CRACY exactly ! Prep is key and cutting the affected area... I forgot to mention I sprayed CLR on the rust before using the other stuff
When you think the panel is level do a guide coat. To make sure .
Yup! A lot of people need to do this! Great tip!
Check out my How to repair an old damaged wing repair vid! Have a look at the state of that for a rust repair lol.
I have yet to talk to anyone, including 3M about how to avoid the ghost lines that show up later with temperature and humidity changes. Doesn't matter what procedures or filler you use it will show up. But if you can live with that then yes it will hold just fine. The rest is just cosmetic.
I'll have to keep an eye on it, I haven't noticed anything unusual so far. It still looks like nothing has ever been done to it.
Could you have used magnets instead of rivets? and no I have no experience of Auto repair or Metalwork, just interested. Thanks.
If they will keep it tight, it may work. You just need to keep the sheet metal you are gluing clamped tight to the part you need it glued too for 24 hours.. The adhesive has tiny glass beads in it to help gap it and prevent you from squeezing all of it out.
He said ruff.
Is the panel bond sandable?????
Yes it is.
@@1D10CRACY thanks 😊
I don’t see anything wrong with the way that you went about doing the repair , if you had welded a patch you could have warped the roof and you would have had to grind down the welds and take a chance with more warping
Panel bond the rivets and then just grind the heads down flat and your done
Using steel rivets this would probably be ok. I had used aluminum rivets, so they needed to be removed to prevent the dissimilar metals from corroding.
ya sure looks okay but if I WOULDA done it well .. hehe haha THUMBS UP
Round off the corners of the cutout before making the repair
Probably not a bad idea, something I've never done.
2k epoxy primer in a can would have been a better option as a bare metal primer than just primer, as I noticed you didn’t even etch prime the metal,. For anyone watching this,. Using 2k epoxy primer over the bare metal repair is the only way to go… Especially over the top of fibreglass resin and a good base grab between the resin and bondo., then another closing coat over the bondo., as the epoxy primer will stop all oxygen and moisture entering into bare metal and bondo, even rust.
Hi, thanks for the comment and I really enjoy reading about other peoples techniques. First, I would like to encourage everyone to read the directions on the body glue and fillers that they are using before considering other peoples comments and suggestions, including mine. :D The label on the epoxy made it very clear not to use any primers and to only use it on bare metal. I understand your technique may be different, but the instructions are important to point out and consider. I am also not a big fan of epoxy primers unless you are using it as a sealer primer, so I typically do not use them. Also my general rule of thumb is to use body filler directly onto bare prepped metal, this also includes fiber enforced body filler as used in this video. Both body fillers are compatible with each other and stick to each other without the use of primer. I feel adding layers of primer between layers of filler just adds more room for failure. I also only use etching primer if the primer is going to directly touch bare metal as I did in this video. But keep in mind, these are my techniques that I use and by no way means your technique is right or wrong. If what you are doing works, great! I will also keep doing follow up videos of this truck showing how it ages, right now it still looks like a brand new truck.
Use duraglass no fiber glass on metal.
My brother repaired the rear quarter panels of a Tahoe laying the fiberglass right on top of bare metal. At the time I thought I knew better and questioned it. This was about 15 years ago and the Tahoe is still in the family, the rear quarter panels still look good and hasn't rusted through. One would of thought that maybe the resin would not play nice with bare steel, but it doesn't seem to be an issue.
Why would you even bother when the stuff is so expensive ?
I think a lot of people feel the 60 bucks for the adhesive is affordable. Also some people can't weld and this is a feasible option for them. It's basically another option to keep in your tool bag of tricks.
Bullshit professioneel body workers glue as well
Just because "professionals" do a job, it doesn't always mean it's done correctly. But I'm glad you agree! Thanks for the comment!