Stumbled across your part 2. Stopped it . Came here and I think it is a brilliant idea for content coz it is true what you are saying. I learnt something. So thank you. Now part 2 😁
Thank you going over these "basic" concepts. Fact of the matter is a lot of beginners like me are really just lost with all the breadth of information and nuances out there, videos like yours help a lot understanding how these machines work. Even googling MT3 vs R8 usually result with just definitions, but no actual insight on how they actually perform in practice.
Thank you very much for the video. I got my first mill/drill machine last weekend and this video really helped me understand the system and the milling process.
Yes these basics get a good reception. I need to do more of them. For some reason I get a bunch of these very simple questions from people who watch my combo machine videos. Hopefully they will be of help to someone. Thanks! All the best! Eddie
Ignorant = Has not been learned yet. Stupid = Can not/will not learn. The ignorant can be taught, you can't fix stupid. Good information here. Thank you.
Thank you so much Sir! I 100% subscribe to you wonderful thinking that we have all been there, how so true you are. I for one has never had a chance to walk in a machine shop nor did I ever have anyone teaching me. My dream was to be a machinist while I was in high school but life never affords you your dream sometimes. So I resorted to RUclips teachers like you who do not assume why we have this or that, how does this or that works. I cannot find a pertinent word of appreciation about what you are doing. It is excellent work, keep it up for people like me. One day I am going to buy my own mill and machine stuff too. Once again thank you so much!
Lol, I am just a guy who learned all of this just like you are trying to do, no master or even a machinist. Just giving back to those on the same path. Thanks for the support and stay tuned. All the best! Eddie
Hello, thanks for watching. I am going to do more of these basics videos but I also have a bunch of machining oriented videos where I have similar info and other tips and tricks. Check out my machining playlist. ruclips.net/p/PLAHFt4_nmEpoYg7RAqPOQRwHc963eytuZ All the best, Eddie
thank you very much ... I just bought an exactly similar Chinese lathe. and just tried it for the first time. later the same day I will find this wonderful info video about how it works. make more info videos, I will check them all :-)
Thanks! I will be make ng more videos like this one but be sure to checkout my playlist of videos I have made with this machine. ruclips.net/p/PLAHFt4_nmEpoYg7RAqPOQRwHc963eytuZ All the best! Eddie
Thank You. I just ordered new Mill with an MT3 and I want to teach myself milling. This information is ideal for beginners trying to muddle their way through getting tools with the right fittings and unbderstanding the what and why
great explinations, and a good video style, one other point on this topic, that you missed out, is that along the "wedge" method of removing chucks,etc. there is another style of this, in the lathe tailstocks: these use a "butt plug" in place of the mill's quill draw bar, simmilar operation, but to release tapers on holders/drills, tap the quill's handle at the most retracted position, this 'hammers' the plug into the back end of the attachment, freeing the taper, hence why some makers put stoppers, collars, etc. in these tailstocks, so long drills, etc. are not 'jetisoned' accidentally, and without a cupped hand below them!!- this avoids a crash on the machine ways, damaging both objects!! this is also a reason for the "tang" on some tapered drills/drill chucks!- as the "plug" has something to hit, to extract the holder, and NOT damage any threaded end.
Absolutely right and I did forget that. My tailstock works the same way. That is actually important enough I may need to figure a way to add it to another video. When I first got the machine I locked a non tanged taper in the tailstock. It was a pain to get it out. I added a bolt and spacer until I bought the correct taper after that. Thanks! Eddie
@@theeddies that's Ok, just thought of it, while watching the video, ALSO this is used by grinding machines and milling chucks (rotary accessories) in thier tailstock supports, aka the whole pin is spring loaded, and is pushed back to insert mandrils into the 'jig' on the table.
Oh man, I wish I had found this video a little while back, it’s a bloody beauty. It’s so hard to find a video with that level of information. They are either more basic, like “this is called the knee, this is the button for forward and reverse etc” or jump too far ahead. Yours was spot on mate. Gr8 work! You have yourself a new ‘liker’ (not licker!! 🤣) and new subscriber 👍 I do have a question. I’ve been thinking about changing my mill from MT3 to a BT40. I find it hard to get tooling I want that has Morse taper and I’m not big on using adapters as my default setup.. Actually, BT40 isn’t really important. It’s the bigger picture of how to change a milling machine from a Morse Taper to something different. Hope you can help. Cheers fella, Michael 🇦🇺😮
Thanks! I am afraid I cannot help much as to the taper change. The only way I would guess you could do it would be a spindle change. Depending on the machine, that would probably involve having a new spindle or perhaps the old one machined from scratch with the new taper.
Thank you! I really enjoyed watching the video. I’m retired and just bought my first combo and have a lot to learn. Your video was a lot of help to me with some really great info! Do you have any videos on cutting a slot in 1/4” carbon flat bar 3 3/4” wide by 7 1/8” long? Thank you again! Lol I’m also new to you tube!
Thanks. Welcome. I do not have a specific video cutting a long piece of flat. If your machine is like mine you would probably need to do the long length in 2 setups. Willing to help if you have any questions though. Thanks, Eddie
@@theeddies Yes. It's genius! You ever watch Teryl Fixes All? (I forget how you spell it), if not, he used and maybe still does small engine videos (Occasionally you'll see Mustie1 with one of his coffee cups used to drain carbs), but him and his buddies also have a flare for Lloyd Kaufman (Troma) type of no budget horror and comedy. They kind of sandwich the informational content with some spoof horror or comedy bits, like a knock off of the 'Christine' film storyline, but with a riding lawn mower. One morning I was half awake and saw Teryl on the local news here. I was like "WTF!" lol
thank you for this. I sorely needed all this information. Can this be applied to work on a Craftsman lathe and milling attachment? On to number 2. Thanks again
Hey mate just wondering if I get a draw bar for my drill press an use a proper collet chuck would it be ok for milling small stuff just to get started an learn
Most drill presses just do not have the side to side rigidity to mill anything more than plastics. I would never discourage anyone from experimenting. I will just say that many have tried and I doubt you will have much success. There are some techniques to "mill" on a drill press. For instance doing a series of plunge cuts to remove most of the material and then finishing with a file. It is very time consuming and the the finish will not be great but it can get the job done. Best!, Eddie
I wonder whats the best option or system to use to hold my endmills . I got a larger industrial Floor stand drill press with #4 morse taper style holder but it has no hole in the shaft for draw bar installation . .Is the regular taper mill bit holder with thang only will do the job . Whats the better system ER or some other methods ?
If you are just using them on plunge cuts, then no problem. You can get ER (or other systems) collets on tanged tapers. If you are trying to side cut then watch this video ruclips.net/video/Nm1C66yhkzI/видео.html
Good stuff. I am looking at a machine like yours. It was sold as scrap and the scrap yard is selling it. I am told it works. It has some bent sheet metal and the cranks are bent and broken off of 2 of the knobs. Does this machine require change gears to change speeds or is it all done by moving the belts on to different pulleys? The one I am looking at comes with few extra bits. I am trying to figure out how big of problem that will be. I emailed Chicago Lathe and they said they didn't make parts for it anymore. Thanks!
Hello, it is all belts. Though there are versions that have transmissions for threading. Parts are going to be tough. When I first bought this one Grizzly still had a few parts for their version. But I have not checked in a long while. Thanks!
What does the “ER” in ER collet stand for. Probably something obvious but I never like initials unexplained.😬 Otherwise, thank you so much for a great, easy to understand video!
Hello, so basically the story as I understand it is as follows. The company Rego-Fix modified an existing "E" collet and added an R for Rego-fix to the end. The original collet is a bit harder to find info on but it appears it was just the 5th in a series (A, B, C, D, E) of collapsible collets and had the same general dimensions of the ER but did not have the groove to pop the collet free. Rego-Fix added the groove and and ridge in the nut and put it on the market as "ER". Fairly boring story which is probably why it not more repeated. I will send you a link in another comment with a picture of the 2 and slightly longer explanation. All the best! Eddie
I am about to buy my first mill/lathe combo. And this is really helpful! I have a question about collets and chucks. Would I be able to use the chuck for milling or is that operation strictly used with collets? Might seem like a stupid question but I don't want my hand taken off from an exploding chuck. Thank you for the informative video.
Hello, drill chucks are not designed for the side forces of milling. Also drill chucks grip a drill bit shaft which typically has a softer shank than cutting area. End mills are typically the same hardness throughout and are not gripped well by a three jaw drill chuck. It is a bad idea to mill with a chuck. However it is generally ok to chuck an end mill and use it as a flat drill bit if you want to make a flat hole or put a flat on something. But moving side to side is a bad idea. Best case you will get chatter, worst case the chuck will loosen at the jaws or the mounting taper and come off. There is a reason collets use drawbars or other retaining method, it so they do not come out. All the best! Eddie
@@weaveroll I will be doing more. In fact your question might just end up being one of them. I remember I had the same question when I was learning as well. The answer would come up occasionally in a random video here and there but no one went into detail why it is a bad idea. Best! Eddie
@@theeddies cool! I have a bunch more or less dumb questions I need to figure out or have answered before I feel confident enough to have toolsteel spinning at 2000 rpm near my vital parts.
@@weaveroll Ask away, they make great content. Part of the problem with the large creators is they forgot all the little things they take for granted but had to learn as well.
I am sure any of them could be converted, but you would need the tools and know how to do it. Some models came with an optional internal taper instead of a Jacobs type. In that case it would just be a matter of changing parts. That would take some research for your specific model though.
I've had my Chinese pos for like 35 years, and there are still things I didn't know that I should have! Like the tang slot in the quill - duh! Shoulda known! Thanks for teaching me! Any opinions on ER vice MT collets? It's about um, 35 years (ack!), since I should have bought a set. Gonna do it now. Have you had any problem with the chuck coming loose from the MT adapter? Must admit, it's probably because I'm stupidly putting end mills in the chuck, putting side forces it's not designed for. Thanks again!
Thanks! I am a big fan of ER collets in general. The only reason I do not have an ER vise collet block is I long ago got a near free deal on a bunch of 5C collets stuff that included square and hex blocks. I have not had any issues with the setup I showed. Putting endmills in a drill chuck is a recipe for disaster generally, except using them straight up and down as a flat drill bit with no side forces. milling really require the tool holder to be locked to the spindle with a drawbar or some other means. All the best! Eddie
@@theeddies Thanks. Somebody told me on Amazon q&a that you can't get an adapter for mt3 to er20, have to move up to er32. But you did it, right? I couldn't find it in Amazon though. I'm confused!
@@jimmacaulay844 yes but it was awhile ago they may have changed. I have a set in the description that is er25. Same thing just it includes 9/16. There is a holder there as well.
Stumbled across your part 2. Stopped it . Came here and I think it is a brilliant idea for content coz it is true what you are saying. I learnt something. So thank you.
Now part 2 😁
Thank you. I plan to do more parts this year. If you have any suggestions please let me know.
Picture was worth a thousand words...thanks for the quick lesson.
Thank you going over these "basic" concepts. Fact of the matter is a lot of beginners like me are really just lost with all the breadth of information and nuances out there, videos like yours help a lot understanding how these machines work. Even googling MT3 vs R8 usually result with just definitions, but no actual insight on how they actually perform in practice.
Thanks, I was there that is why I made these videos.
Very helpful info for neophytes like myself! Researching getting into hobby machining so thank you for these basic videos!
Thanks!
Thank you very much for the video. I got my first mill/drill machine last weekend and this video really helped me understand the system and the milling process.
Thanks, I will have more of these coming.
Xlnt. You explained everything perfectly. Thank you very much for remembering that not all of us already know the basics. Great job.
Thanks!
Just watched Basics #2, so came back and watched #1. Good stuff, Eddie.
Yes these basics get a good reception. I need to do more of them. For some reason I get a bunch of these very simple questions from people who watch my combo machine videos. Hopefully they will be of help to someone. Thanks! All the best!
Eddie
Ignorant = Has not been learned yet. Stupid = Can not/will not learn. The ignorant can be taught, you can't fix stupid. Good information here. Thank you.
Thanks!
Eddie
Thank you ,Simple explanations for otherwise unexplained systems. Brilliant,well done. Mike
Thanks Mike. That was exactly my intent.
All the best!
Eddie
Thank You
Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much Sir! I 100% subscribe to you wonderful thinking that we have all been there, how so true you are. I for one has never had a chance to walk in a machine shop nor did I ever have anyone teaching me. My dream was to be a machinist while I was in high school but life never affords you your dream sometimes. So I resorted to RUclips teachers like you who do not assume why we have this or that, how does this or that works. I cannot find a pertinent word of appreciation about what you are doing. It is excellent work, keep it up for people like me. One day I am going to buy my own mill and machine stuff too. Once again thank you so much!
Lol, I am just a guy who learned all of this just like you are trying to do, no master or even a machinist. Just giving back to those on the same path. Thanks for the support and stay tuned. All the best!
Eddie
Thank you. I enjoyed your simple explanation
Thanks!
Thanks a lot for the basics, you are awesome
thankyou ! as a new owner of a mid-70's mill that came with a bunch of random seeming tools this video was really helpful to get me started !
Thanks, glad it helped. I am doing a series of these. About one a month. All the best and if you ever have a question, let me know. Eddie
Very HELPFULL
Thanks!
Glad you found it useful. Best! Eddie
That was very helpful. Thanks!
Thank you. I just got that exact machine. I'm new to this. This video was helpful
Hello, thanks for watching. I am going to do more of these basics videos but I also have a bunch of machining oriented videos where I have similar info and other tips and tricks.
Check out my machining playlist.
ruclips.net/p/PLAHFt4_nmEpoYg7RAqPOQRwHc963eytuZ
All the best,
Eddie
thank you very much ... I just bought an exactly similar Chinese lathe. and just tried it for the first time. later the same day I will find this wonderful info video about how it works.
make more info videos, I will check them all :-)
Thanks! I will be make ng more videos like this one but be sure to checkout my playlist of videos I have made with this machine. ruclips.net/p/PLAHFt4_nmEpoYg7RAqPOQRwHc963eytuZ
All the best!
Eddie
Love the video mate helped me keep up the good work
Thanks! that means a lot.
Great video!
Thanks!
Thank you sir, this is exactly what I needed! Earned yourself a sub!
Thanks!
Hi,
Lots of good information there... I am sure this series will be popular...
Take care
Paul,,
Thanks Paul, I don't know if it will be a series but it has gotten a nice response.
All the best!
Eddie
Thank You. I just ordered new Mill with an MT3 and I want to teach myself milling. This information is ideal for beginners trying to muddle their way through getting tools with the right fittings and unbderstanding the what and why
Thanks! Glad you found it useful.
Thank you
Wwll explained 👌
Thanks!
great explinations, and a good video style, one other point on this topic, that you missed out, is that along the "wedge" method of removing chucks,etc. there is another style of this, in the lathe tailstocks: these use a "butt plug" in place of the mill's quill draw bar, simmilar operation, but to release tapers on holders/drills, tap the quill's handle at the most retracted position, this 'hammers' the plug into the back end of the attachment, freeing the taper, hence why some makers put stoppers, collars, etc. in these tailstocks, so long drills, etc. are not 'jetisoned' accidentally, and without a cupped hand below them!!- this avoids a crash on the machine ways, damaging both objects!!
this is also a reason for the "tang" on some tapered drills/drill chucks!- as the "plug" has something to hit, to extract the holder, and NOT damage any threaded end.
Absolutely right and I did forget that. My tailstock works the same way. That is actually important enough I may need to figure a way to add it to another video. When I first got the machine I locked a non tanged taper in the tailstock. It was a pain to get it out. I added a bolt and spacer until I bought the correct taper after that. Thanks!
Eddie
@@theeddies that's Ok, just thought of it, while watching the video, ALSO this is used by grinding machines and milling chucks (rotary accessories) in thier tailstock supports, aka the whole pin is spring loaded, and is pushed back to insert mandrils into the 'jig' on the table.
Oh man, I wish I had found this video a little while back, it’s a bloody beauty. It’s so hard to find a video with that level of information. They are either more basic, like “this is called the knee, this is the button for forward and reverse etc” or jump too far ahead. Yours was spot on mate. Gr8 work! You have yourself a new ‘liker’ (not licker!! 🤣) and new subscriber 👍
I do have a question. I’ve been thinking about changing my mill from MT3 to a BT40. I find it hard to get tooling I want that has Morse taper and I’m not big on using adapters as my default setup.. Actually, BT40 isn’t really important. It’s the bigger picture of how to change a milling machine from a Morse Taper to something different. Hope you can help.
Cheers fella,
Michael 🇦🇺😮
Thanks! I am afraid I cannot help much as to the taper change. The only way I would guess you could do it would be a spindle change. Depending on the machine, that would probably involve having a new spindle or perhaps the old one machined from scratch with the new taper.
Thank you for including stoopid people …. It got you an extra subscriber 🤗 , great tips in this video as i just got an old HQ400/3
Thanks and welcome!
Thank you! I really enjoyed watching the video. I’m retired and just bought my first combo and have a lot to learn. Your video was a lot of help to me with some really great info! Do you have any videos on cutting a slot in 1/4” carbon flat bar 3 3/4” wide by 7 1/8” long?
Thank you again! Lol I’m also new to you tube!
Thanks. Welcome. I do not have a specific video cutting a long piece of flat. If your machine is like mine you would probably need to do the long length in 2 setups. Willing to help if you have any questions though.
Thanks,
Eddie
Love the vid.
Thanks! I have another basic tooling video coming soon.
It never hurts to review the basics.
Oh it hurts, everything hurts -- sometimes.
Did you check out "in the shed"?
@@theeddies Yes. It's genius! You ever watch Teryl Fixes All? (I forget how you spell it), if not, he used and maybe still does small engine videos (Occasionally you'll see Mustie1 with one of his coffee cups used to drain carbs), but him and his buddies also have a flare for Lloyd Kaufman (Troma) type of no budget horror and comedy. They kind of sandwich the informational content with some spoof horror or comedy bits, like a knock off of the 'Christine' film storyline, but with a riding lawn mower. One morning I was half awake and saw Teryl on the local news here. I was like "WTF!" lol
@@theeddies Q: Which bodies hurt, and when? A: Everybody hurts, sometimes.
thank you for this. I sorely needed all this information. Can this be applied to work on a Craftsman lathe and milling attachment? On to number 2. Thanks again
Absolutely, I use drawbars and tapered tools in my lathe all the time.
Hey mate just wondering if I get a draw bar for my drill press an use a proper collet chuck would it be ok for milling small stuff just to get started an learn
Most drill presses just do not have the side to side rigidity to mill anything more than plastics. I would never discourage anyone from experimenting. I will just say that many have tried and I doubt you will have much success. There are some techniques to "mill" on a drill press. For instance doing a series of plunge cuts to remove most of the material and then finishing with a file. It is very time consuming and the the finish will not be great but it can get the job done.
Best!,
Eddie
I wonder whats the best option or system to use to hold my endmills . I got a larger industrial Floor stand drill press with #4 morse taper style holder but it has no hole in the shaft for draw bar installation . .Is the regular taper mill bit holder with thang only will do the job . Whats the better system ER or some other methods ?
If you are just using them on plunge cuts, then no problem. You can get ER (or other systems) collets on tanged tapers. If you are trying to side cut then watch this video ruclips.net/video/Nm1C66yhkzI/видео.html
Good stuff.
I am looking at a machine like yours.
It was sold as scrap and the scrap yard is selling it.
I am told it works.
It has some bent sheet metal and the cranks are bent and broken off of 2 of the knobs.
Does this machine require change gears to change speeds or is it all done by moving the belts on to different pulleys?
The one I am looking at comes with few extra bits.
I am trying to figure out how big of problem that will be.
I emailed Chicago Lathe and they said they didn't make parts for it anymore.
Thanks!
Hello, it is all belts. Though there are versions that have transmissions for threading. Parts are going to be tough. When I first bought this one Grizzly still had a few parts for their version. But I have not checked in a long while.
Thanks!
What does the “ER” in ER collet stand for. Probably something obvious but I never like initials unexplained.😬 Otherwise, thank you so much for a great, easy to understand video!
Hello, so basically the story as I understand it is as follows. The company Rego-Fix modified an existing "E" collet and added an R for Rego-fix to the end. The original collet is a bit harder to find info on but it appears it was just the 5th in a series (A, B, C, D, E) of collapsible collets and had the same general dimensions of the ER but did not have the groove to pop the collet free. Rego-Fix added the groove and and ridge in the nut and put it on the market as "ER". Fairly boring story which is probably why it not more repeated. I will send you a link in another comment with a picture of the 2 and slightly longer explanation.
All the best!
Eddie
www.productionmachining.com/blog/post/whats-in-a-name-er-collet
I am about to buy my first mill/lathe combo. And this is really helpful! I have a question about collets and chucks. Would I be able to use the chuck for milling or is that operation strictly used with collets? Might seem like a stupid question but I don't want my hand taken off from an exploding chuck. Thank you for the informative video.
Hello, drill chucks are not designed for the side forces of milling. Also drill chucks grip a drill bit shaft which typically has a softer shank than cutting area. End mills are typically the same hardness throughout and are not gripped well by a three jaw drill chuck. It is a bad idea to mill with a chuck. However it is generally ok to chuck an end mill and use it as a flat drill bit if you want to make a flat hole or put a flat on something. But moving side to side is a bad idea. Best case you will get chatter, worst case the chuck will loosen at the jaws or the mounting taper and come off. There is a reason collets use drawbars or other retaining method, it so they do not come out. All the best!
Eddie
@@theeddies as i suspected. I really appreciate these kind of videos. I find that the bigger content creators forget about us diy-ers and newbies.
@@weaveroll I will be doing more. In fact your question might just end up being one of them. I remember I had the same question when I was learning as well. The answer would come up occasionally in a random video here and there but no one went into detail why it is a bad idea. Best!
Eddie
@@theeddies cool! I have a bunch more or less dumb questions I need to figure out or have answered before I feel confident enough to have toolsteel spinning at 2000 rpm near my vital parts.
@@weaveroll Ask away, they make great content. Part of the problem with the large creators is they forgot all the little things they take for granted but had to learn as well.
So can any drill press be converted from a taper to a drawbar system?
I am sure any of them could be converted, but you would need the tools and know how to do it. Some models came with an optional internal taper instead of a Jacobs type. In that case it would just be a matter of changing parts. That would take some research for your specific model though.
I've had my Chinese pos for like 35 years, and there are still things I didn't know that I should have! Like the tang slot in the quill - duh! Shoulda known! Thanks for teaching me!
Any opinions on ER vice MT collets? It's about um, 35 years (ack!), since I should have bought a set. Gonna do it now.
Have you had any problem with the chuck coming loose from the MT adapter? Must admit, it's probably because I'm stupidly putting end mills in the chuck, putting side forces it's not designed for.
Thanks again!
Thanks! I am a big fan of ER collets in general. The only reason I do not have an ER vise collet block is I long ago got a near free deal on a bunch of 5C collets stuff that included square and hex blocks.
I have not had any issues with the setup I showed. Putting endmills in a drill chuck is a recipe for disaster generally, except using them straight up and down as a flat drill bit with no side forces. milling really require the tool holder to be locked to the spindle with a drawbar or some other means.
All the best!
Eddie
@@theeddies Thanks. Somebody told me on Amazon q&a that you can't get an adapter for mt3 to er20, have to move up to er32. But you did it, right? I couldn't find it in Amazon though. I'm confused!
@@jimmacaulay844 yes but it was awhile ago they may have changed. I have a set in the description that is er25. Same thing just it includes 9/16. There is a holder there as well.
Less talk more demonstrations
Don't like it, don't watch. I don't take demands or commands from anyone.