Thanks for the great video(s). Your advice about the runaway engine is spot on. I was probably just lucky but avoided a rebuild by soaking my pump. Removed the cover and the injection lines then filled it with gasoline. I refilled it again and again for weeks. Eventually gas started to leak out the back lines. Can't explain how/why but it worked. Truck ran terrible and smoked horribly for 20-30 minutes. Now starts and runs like a champ. Might be worth a try if you can afford the time to let it sit but not the time/skill to rebuild. 👍
great video!!!!! thanks for taking the time to document the reseal and how the injection pump works. you have made me confident into doing mine now. cheers from california
I forgot to say, thanks for the great video! I have an '87 F250 with the 6.9 IDI and it runs rough and smokes a lot of white diesel mist so I'm pretty sure I'm going to have the injectors and the pump out/apart before it's over and I was dreading it, but this video made me feel a lot better!
That little spring inside which you call a return spring actually may be an anti-play spring so that the sliding rod follows the throttle position exactly rather than being able to jiggle a little due to the end play in the cam slot. (Although it obviously does also apply a small return force.) Had a Isuzu engine with an inline injector pump one time where the rack anti-lash spring had broken, which caused idle to be unreliable - it would either idle high sometimes, or if you adjusted that down then sometimes it'd idle too low and die at idle because the rack had lash, because the anti-lash spring was broken. Bent a new hook on the end of the spring and it ran great.
I came across this video today when I was working on my F-250 6.9 idi. It was a lot of help, except I am trying to turn the fuel up. I opened up the cover on the side and found the 5/32 allen head but it wouldn't turn. It. Won't. Turn. Thoughts?
Great video, but why didn't you tell us what depth you had on the depth guage and how you arrived at that being the correct depth? I didn't mark mine and have no idea where to set it.
Simple, me giving you the dimension would be pointless since that dimension was for my pump on my truck. In other words, that setting is not standard to the pump, it is set on the pump by the truck manufacturer for that pump on that motor in that truck. They say that setting will be different depending on several factors even things like if the truck is 3/4 vs 1 ton vs 2 wheel or 4 wheel drive. So you should take the measurement on your pump before you disassemble it. And even then, it will only give you a starting point for final adjustment on the engine running later.
Wow, all those 5 video parts and then you don't show us testing it, or engine running. bummer, anti-climax. Also, I was watching these vids because I want to see how the return outlet pressure valve thingy looks inside and also how to test it. I didn't see any ball in mine, or know to press on the end. But then you decided to leave it in, without even checking if the o-ring is still good or not. Well, great info here if I ever decide to really tear into one, but I'm still in search of more details on the outlet valve. onwards! ps: when mine was sticking from sitting a few years, I was able to unstick it by soaking with some carb cleaner and wiggling like you did and then I filled the IP chamber and also the fuel filter with ATF and put some dieselkleen in the tank. Running good now and never had to take it off. I might've just gotten lucky though.
This was a mini series I split off from a project I have in the playlists regarding my 93 Chevrolet pickup. Your can see the running and timing videos in that playlist. ruclips.net/p/PLV1RW-p5BeokEbBvya-LwjKJBJ2flJTqw
@@tomhidsen yet, based on you other comments.......you are messing with yours lol. This is only the second one of these pumps I have ever worked on, and both times I was able to repair them. Maybe it was dumb luck, but I also found plenty of evidence of other guys who have been able to work on these pumps, and successfully repair them despite "expert" advice.
Yes sir, seems like it worked. This series is part of another series on a 93 Chevy truck I have. I think the video that followed this was one how to get the timing on the reinstalled pump close to optimal. Here is a direct link: ruclips.net/video/kkHW2ikswAE/видео.html
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Best rebuild video on youtube. Thank you so much for taking the time to walk us through the process.
Thanks for the great video(s). Your advice about the runaway engine is spot on. I was probably just lucky but avoided a rebuild by soaking my pump. Removed the cover and the injection lines then filled it with gasoline. I refilled it again and again for weeks. Eventually gas started to leak out the back lines. Can't explain how/why but it worked. Truck ran terrible and smoked horribly for 20-30 minutes. Now starts and runs like a champ. Might be worth a try if you can afford the time to let it sit but not the time/skill to rebuild. 👍
great video!!!!! thanks for taking the time to document the reseal and how the injection pump works. you have made me confident into doing mine now. cheers from california
I forgot to say, thanks for the great video! I have an '87 F250 with the 6.9 IDI and it runs rough and smokes a lot of white diesel mist so I'm pretty sure I'm going to have the injectors and the pump out/apart before it's over and I was dreading it, but this video made me feel a lot better!
That little spring inside which you call a return spring actually may be an anti-play spring so that the sliding rod follows the throttle position exactly rather than being able to jiggle a little due to the end play in the cam slot. (Although it obviously does also apply a small return force.)
Had a Isuzu engine with an inline injector pump one time where the rack anti-lash spring had broken, which caused idle to be unreliable - it would either idle high sometimes, or if you adjusted that down then sometimes it'd idle too low and die at idle because the rack had lash, because the anti-lash spring was broken. Bent a new hook on the end of the spring and it ran great.
Well... did it work? You didnt fire it up..
I came across this video today when I was working on my F-250 6.9 idi. It was a lot of help, except I am trying to turn the fuel up. I opened up the cover on the side and found the 5/32 allen head but it wouldn't turn. It. Won't. Turn. Thoughts?
Great video, but why didn't you tell us what depth you had on the depth guage and how you arrived at that being the correct depth? I didn't mark mine and have no idea where to set it.
Simple, me giving you the dimension would be pointless since that dimension was for my pump on my truck. In other words, that setting is not standard to the pump, it is set on the pump by the truck manufacturer for that pump on that motor in that truck. They say that setting will be different depending on several factors even things like if the truck is 3/4 vs 1 ton vs 2 wheel or 4 wheel drive. So you should take the measurement on your pump before you disassemble it. And even then, it will only give you a starting point for final adjustment on the engine running later.
Do you name of little spring that goes back of injector?
Sorry, i. Do not know. It is hard to find part number for specific parts other than wear items like seals.
Love the tutorial! Thanks
Hey Steve, did the injection pump work after doing all of this work?
@@mojo1965 yes! There is a video of starting the 93 chevy after this.
@@mojo1965 ruclips.net/video/mdnisnUd8Fo/видео.htmlsi=pREBjC8ON7c76eYe
Hope it worked.
Wow, all those 5 video parts and then you don't show us testing it, or engine running. bummer, anti-climax.
Also, I was watching these vids because I want to see how the return outlet pressure valve thingy looks inside and also how to test it. I didn't see any ball in mine, or know to press on the end. But then you decided to leave it in, without even checking if the o-ring is still good or not.
Well, great info here if I ever decide to really tear into one, but I'm still in search of more details on the outlet valve. onwards!
ps: when mine was sticking from sitting a few years, I was able to unstick it by soaking with some carb cleaner and wiggling like you did and then I filled the IP chamber and also the fuel filter with ATF and put some dieselkleen in the tank. Running good now and never had to take it off. I might've just gotten lucky though.
This was a mini series I split off from a project I have in the playlists regarding my 93 Chevrolet pickup. Your can see the running and timing videos in that playlist.
ruclips.net/p/PLV1RW-p5BeokEbBvya-LwjKJBJ2flJTqw
The experts said tonot mess with it if you don't have the tools to calibrate it.
@@tomhidsen yet, based on you other comments.......you are messing with yours lol. This is only the second one of these pumps I have ever worked on, and both times I was able to repair them. Maybe it was dumb luck, but I also found plenty of evidence of other guys who have been able to work on these pumps, and successfully repair them despite "expert" advice.
Wish I could contact you more directly
I have an issue to figure out if your sonwat knowledgeable
So, I guess that we can assume that your pump rebuild wasn’t a success?
Yes sir, seems like it worked. This series is part of another series on a 93 Chevy truck I have. I think the video that followed this was one how to get the timing on the reinstalled pump close to optimal. Here is a direct link:
ruclips.net/video/kkHW2ikswAE/видео.html