DB2 Explaining the WIRING fuel diesel injection pump (6.9 + 7.3)&(6.2+6.5) IDI engines *diagnosing*
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- LEARN Temperature switch: once reaches a threshold in ohm value due to coolant temperature, switch opens and stops the 12v signal going to the advance timing solenoid AND the high idle solenoid which govern the characteristics of engine operation from cold to warmed up.
Lots of good info, thanks for putting it out there for all of us that are trying to keep those old trucks on the road.
I listened to this about 15 times before i finally understood that the temp switch has a hot wire running to it, and when the engine is cold, the switch is on, sending voltage to the fast idle solenoid and timing advance. Then, when the temperature reaches 144 degrees, the switch opens and shuts off the fast idle solenoid and the timing advance solenoid.
Great info, only correction, high idle solenoid was never meant to push up on its own. it is like an old four barrel, push pedal down turn key, allow glow plug cycle and start. It will hold all day as long as key is on. That is why original start stickers always mention foot feed position on cold starts.Thanks for the video!
I did notice this, and thought about how that sticker is still in mint condition on the visor in my truck explaining to how to cold start the truck. Lol all that is out the window these days hahah it could be 100 degrees out and she aint starting without ether
I just want to give you a massive thumbs up. I was driving out of my house today and the truck instantly died... Like 100% ok to completely dead. I saw no visible reason for this to happen. Turns out the previous owner had a single wire lead (not the plug itself) wired to the fuel shut off solenoid terminal and it popped off. Saved me so much time. I was pretty certain it was fuel related as I run waste motor oil in my truck.
I'm so very glad it helped you. You're not the only one I've been getting A LOT of positive feedback because there's just not much information on the web and no one can afford a shop these days
Very well explained. Thank you!
I try, thank ya!
Excellent! This video will come in handy, and thank you for posting it!
Your welcome!
Subscribed! I've got a new to me 87 f250 idi and this is all great stuff to know down the road if I have issues. Great content and great explanation. It would be really cool if you could do a video explaining the fuel water separator thats on the inner fender. Possibly how the fuel system works with the fuel transfer switch. Again great content!
Would love to see this as well as I know I need a new fuel tank as mine allows water in and has for at least the past two decades... so i know I may need a new ip and mechanical lift pump as well. Truck will randomly shut off on decel sometimes (manual trans, put the clutch in and boom shuts off at rpm drop from any rpm when pushed in), so not sure why it is losing fuel like that. But idk if mine was bypassed or not and i want to know how to reincorporate/upgrade to the 7.3 style separator so i dont mess anything up more
Wow, i think this may solve my problems ive been having. Seems like my pump randomly advances...
Thank you for your feedback, hopefully this is good information and you get your problem resolved! Best regards
@chaosexplained this video just may have solved so many problems I have been having and I honestly could care less about the high idle. Just learning how the pump works and what sensors and senders are what, i cant wait to get back to working on the truck again soon! Love the 6.9 idi stuff!
Thanks !!!!! You are Awesome!!!!!
Appreciate that, thanx
This was very helpful for recreating a wiring harness that was eaten by rodents. Thank you.
Really appreciated since i m working on my 1986 f350, i have bugs that i have to find, looks like i now can test my solenoids on my idi.
I'm glad this video is some help, hope you get your issue fixed!
so my temp sensor when i put test light with key turned lights up but don’t send any power to the 2 tabs mine are the green wires…the pink wire gets power and activates the file shut off solinoid…i ran out of diesel and now i’m having problems starting back up it’s a 82 6.2…so i jumped them both out off the shut off (pink wire) and i seen duke start moving through the return…i’ve never had a problem starting up ever i’ve ran out of fuel before add some and started right up…but as i’m trying to bleed the system i’m noticing all these other things….another thing my glow plugs just stopped working …it’s not the solinoid i think it’s the control ..i can jump the glow plugs and get them to do their job …does the glow plug control …it’s the 6 pin behind the manifold have anythjj in bb to do with the temp sensor that the 2 green wire hook up to? …i’ve been doing everything to get the air out for the last 3 days….i’m lost now….as for the cold and the idle i could jump them with 12volts and use a toggle switch when i get to temp? and if i use a manual glow plug button and bypass the control would that mess with any temp sensors?
GREAT VIDEO!
THANK YOU!!
should my temp sensor have constant power with the key to the on position?
Yes
Could you please post witch fuel line goes to what injector on a 6.9 Ford please sir
That was a good video.. and well done.. For me i just installed a new IP and injectors.. and No One in San Diego can Tune it.. did static timing.. any options for tuning by ear ect.. i may have a lead on a guy who works on Big Rigs.. lol
Hey thanks for your Feedback, these injection pumps come from wherever it is in the world they sat it at very specific settings. If you were concerned about timing I suggest making sure your timing is correct with the dot on the top gear under that small cover. Remember this injection pump depends on the gears in the front for the timing, it's literally the heartbeat and brain for this engine. If it was installed incorrectly and the timing is off this engine will never run. Hope this helped!
@@ChaosExplained thanx for reply.. yeah, didn't take off that top gear cover.. it does fjnally sound like a diesel with the new parts.. have some trips planned.. and it smokes a bit more than before.. but the new pump has better fuel supply now.. haha thinking a pyometer maybe handy.. just to be able to watch.. but after watchjng and listenjng to other 6.9's ect.. its prolly good to go.. no one here has the 30 year old timing gear needed.. haha thanks..
My 91 f350 7.3 fires up and idles fine but when i give it some throttle and let off it dies.. just wondering if you had any advice on what to look for with that issue. I need my truck for work but don’t trust hauling the goose neck while it’s running like this. Thank you in advance
My 6.9 has been missing on one of the cylinders for a month or so and smoking alot. The other day I was driving and she stalled. I tried everything and couldn't get it to start. There seems to be pressure at the injectors but no fuel seems to be getting to the engine. Do you have any ideas?
I will give you a couple tips for sure. Will be making a video on the science of atomization in fuel Vapors and the color specifically of "smoking" it is a misconception that black smoke is unburned fuel when this is actually incorrect... black smoke is an indication that the fuel is burning however it is burning way too rich for the air molecules to match. White smoke that does not smell sweet but it smells like vinegar is unburned fuel atomization coming from the exhaust. If the smoke is black and gray then this means the air is mixing through the exhaust and you have some cylinders that the mixture is too rich and some cylinders that are not firing under compression.. the clue that we need to know is what color is your vehicle puffing? That's the first clue
Can you buy the high idle solenoid anymore? I'm having problems finding a new one
What wire of the (2) on each solenoid did you touch? Or does it matter?
So basically if the engine temperature switch goes bad it will not send power to the cold idle solenoid or the timing advance solenoid?
Hey thanks for your feedback, without looking at the print in front of me and it's been awhile since I made this video. I'm going to take a guess and say yes that is correct. The temperature switch is a on or off switch not variable. So yes id assume that the cold engine idle solenoid is tied in with this, guessing without looking.
What you can do is you could always send a false signal to punk the circuit essentially. On the temperature switch just pull off the wire and ground it out since its a 1 wire to ground... if this is true what you are asking it should actuate the engine cold solenoid
solenoid only hold throttle open when energized, does not push throttle open.
Yup
My high idle solenoid has never opened the throttle. I always have to hit the fuel pedal to get it to high idle. Owned the truck 20 years, since 30k miles.
Yeah that thing's expensive too I tell you mine's a little weak but works still. Think I found one for 40 bucks used on ebay food for thought
@@ChaosExplained for what it's worth, it's always been my understanding that the high idle solenoid just isn't strong enough to push your throttle up. When you hit your throttle, the plunger on the solenoid extends until it hits the throttle lever and will stay locked until the engine tells it that it's reached 114 degrees. That would explain why, in this video, your plunger was able to extend out to the throttle when you tested it.
Can you put up a drawing of the wiring that goes to the pump. Don't have wiring on the truck.
Hey thank you for commenting! As far as the drawing goes for the print fast forward this video toward the very end and it will give you definitions of the solenoid so you can look it up on Google if need be for the db2 wiring. Only 3 solenoids are directly affiliated with this, fuel shutoff, advance timing, and i forget the third. Just look at the end lol
@@ChaosExplained are these wires hot all the time when the key switch is on that goes to the 6.9 fuel pump.tks for the come back.
If the advance timing is not working will it smoke white when it's cold?
White smoke= unburned fuel... Or if it's not smoke but white it's just water vapor atomizing since it's cold out. OR if it's white, excessive water vapor and smells sweet = coolant being burned
@@ChaosExplained well they took 94 bd2 and put 92 with different injection pump and only 1 wire ran to it to run and the cut rest wires so idk how fix it?? But thanks for u messaging back ,God bless
The best advice I can give to you on that is, run the numbers on that injection pump, sounds like there might be a Frankenstein mod here. You'll probably have to look at two different schematics to figure out what's what. Happy Halloween 🎃!
@@ChaosExplained yeap that's what I said lol and happy Halloween to u to!!!
My biggest disappointment with the 6.9 since i bought one is the fact that it needs electricity to run. I want to delete that stupid fuel shutoff solenoid and somehow manage to make it manual, that way i dont need any 12 volt to keep it running
I understand your frustration. Unfortunately everything needs electricity to run. Good news, these old trucks are easy enough to work on without a shop computer. Do you have maybe a question I could answer?
@@ChaosExplained no not everything, an all mechanical diesel like the 6.9 can run on its own once started and kept in the run position manually. The OM617 has a vacuum controlled fuel shutoff so it can run with no batteries but thats a little mercedes lol
@Bricky Boii interesting! Definitely hear what your saying. Perhaps you could do a RUclips video yourself and do a similar mod on your 6.9?! That would be cool!
@@ChaosExplained maybe a long time from now lol, thats a bit of work to either modify the injection pump or stick the solenoid in permanent fuel on position and run an inline fuel shutoff in the feed line
@Bricky Boii word! One things for sure, would be cool as hell!!
KOOL
Such solenoid would cause my engine to runaway at super high rpm’s
Which?
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