I just purchased a 2015 Si with 80k this past Thursday. I got FBO upgrades / tuning dancing in my head. Your whole series on this Si is fantastic and very much appreciated!
When doing Transmission, always make sure you can loosen the 'fill' bolt first. you dont wanna empty the transmission and realize the fill bolt is seized.
Transmission draining 101, never open the drain until you know the fill hole is able to be open!!! If you drain the fluid first and can’t open the fill plug, your trans is stuck empty and your out of a ride until you open the bolt.
@@SpeakEzy Most manual gearboxes, T cases, and diffs don't have a dipstick. They usually only have a fill, drain, and vent. I've worked on older Subarus that had a dipstick for the front diff though. Very convenient.
@@SpeakEzy the vehicles with ATF DW-1 most of the time on the v6's or hard to reach one most of the guys in my dealership use a funnel with a piece of hose to fill the transmission lmfao. Some just have the dipstick to fill from.
Just got my 2015 SI about a year ago with 3k miles (it sat around after first owner bought it). Its almost at 12k now and such a great car! Appreciate the detail you go into for these maintenance items. Hope it helps keep my baby happy as can be along with other regular service. Thanks for the video, instant sub! ✌
That's awesome Braden! Sounds like you got a really good example of the car 🙌 Keep up with the maintenance and it will be a great car for you for plenty of years!
That car gonna last a long time bro. I work for a Honda Dealer those K24 engines are bulletproof for the most part besides timing chain issues if oil ain't changed on time. Besides that, you're golden.
Couldn't agree with you more!! I think these are the last of the good Civic. The 10th and 11th gens are on paper better and maybe nicer to live with, but I think Honda killed it with these 9th gens 💪
@@milanmastracci Yeah, I mark 2015 as the high water mark for newer Hondas. First you can't get repair manuals anymore after 2013 and second, the CVT/DI engines are trading reliability for fuel economy. Honda peaked in 1999, then had come crappy years, peaking again in 2013-15.
Your video is amazing !! I just bought a 90k km 2013 civic and want to learn and do all the maintenance work on it, your video is entertaining and educational, i'll watch them all now :)
If it's a spin-on filter, I like Wix. If it's a cartridge filter, I like OEM filters. The OEM cartridge filters have the best designs and o-ring sizes to prevent the oil from draining back and causing longer dry cold starts.
Milan, this is not a criticism - more like an observation and maybe a correction. Combination wrenches 🔧 have two different ends, commonly referred to as open and box end. You refer to the specific ends correctly in this and other videos. You’re calling the actual tool, however, an open end wrench, but that’s not really correct. I’d refer to these as combination wrenches to be safe and cover every use possible no matter what end is used. New tool users will then not be confused. I’m still learning all the time and you just taught me a new trick I’d never seen before - using a ratchet wrench in the open end of a combination wrench to increase both torque AND distance! Very cool! I’ve known about the other trick using two combo wrenches but this new version is even better! Thanks for all your great work!
On the civic manual transmission, the check hole above the drain plug is not a fill hole. Its a check hole. When you fill from the top and the oil starts to dribble out of that hole, it’s full. It’s a very tiny check hole and a pump hose wouldn’t even fit in it anyway.
Just discovered your channel. I have a 2015 si that I’ve had brand new from the dealership and it’s all stock. I like your method at approaching upgrades. Thank you. I’ll definitely be using your videos for help.
As a 9th gen owner, I appreciate the info and potential money 💰 saving. You just earned another subscriber, all the way from south Florida my bruthaaaaaaaaa
one thing about the max line on the brake fluid reservoir, make sure all the brake pads are new or at full depth. if they are not, next time you push back the caliper pistons, fluid will just overflow.
This was one of the best service videos I've ever seen. Thank you for putting the time & effort into making it. Everyone here, including myself is really grateful.
I bought a used Civic 2013 EX with 48km a couple of years ago, its now 63k km and I maintain it by myself as well. Just using Mobil 1 oil and oil filter, rest OEM fluids, standard tools. Good daily driver. Your videos are high quality material, enjoyed watching. Great job! Keep going.
Great video I will say one tip when draining transmissions or differentials always break the fill plug loose first because if you drain it and then are unable to break the fill plug loose you're in some trouble
A friend once said "you aren't working on a vehicle if you aren't swearing at it". So I guess that means you're doing a good job lol. Love the videos and so happy to see more content!
I followed you when you modded your cooper. I had a cooper. Then i traded mine for a civic sport hatchback. Then I found out you got a civic! Back to square one lol
I actually plan to do a bunch of maintenance to my civic in the upcoming weeks, including brake bleeding, oil, tranmission, and a coolant flush. This video is perfect timing for that! So big thanks to you for making this video! :)
Something must be wrong with me - I love doing routine filter/fluid maintenance and once I'm up to date on all of my cars I end up watching people on RUclips maintain their cars. I've done a million oil changes, yet I still enjoy it. It's like ASMR lol. If you can't afford a power bleeder or have an air compressor, a cheap check valve style bleeder for motorbikes works really well for a one person bleeder/brake flushing tool. Just attach it to the loosened nipple and pump the brakes a few times and top off the reservoir.
i have a '10 civic and it came oem with a magnetic drain bolt. I remember my 05 pilot had one too.... and way back when even my 94 accord... honda saved money on the newer civic models i heard - a penny here and there
This is amazing info my man. Thank you, I have a 15 si too and was nervous doing the transmission fluid change. This clearly makes it super easy to do. I'll be turned in to see if you do any future mods!
These cars are pretty easy to work on and don't require many fancy tools which is great! You should be able to tackle the transmission fluid change no problem 👊
Hey, love the details in your videos! You’ve inspired me to try go full bolt on. I’m about to do a full maintenance for my car but I’ve noticed that the serpentine belt that you provided said it didn’t fit. I have a 2015 Si Coupe
K&N filters are a joke. Mann Hummel is of way higher quality than that K&N. Mobil extended filters are 10x better than the k&n. Yes the spring type OEM Honda filters in the boxes are very good. Even the factory plastic wrapped filters are good. I work at Honda myself.
@@milanmastracci just use the OEM filter, the engine and filter are designed with each other in mind. using different brand filters can affect oil pressure and lower oil flow.
@@milanmastracci in every regard. K&N makes crap. People just fall for the hype. Same as Royal purple. It’s one of the worst oil you could buy, yet people swear by it... use the S2K oil filter. It’s far higher quality and cheaper. Skip the A02, fram makes it. It’s probably better than the filter you’re using currently but still, S2K filter is cheaper and better.
@@milanmastracci have you seen what's inside k&N filters. Watch a video and one that gets cut open you'll understand why and they're not worth spending the money on. You're better off with a factory Honda filter or a mobil 1
@@milanmastracci lol no you’re fine because later in the video you said 17mm it’s just I noticed it at first and I was oh no wrong size lol. Most nissans and Toyota’s are 14mm which is probably why you said that considering your other cars lol
Those jacking points are really good on that Honda definitely prevents damage on pinch welds, my jacks damaged my pinch welds a bit even though they were in the right spot pretty frustrating.
One thing you shouldve noted for the transmission is that you should always make sure you have the fill port loosened before draining the transmission. Nothing worse than a drained transmission that you can't refill. Otherwise great video.
I used fram filter on my nissan sentra. Engine had 391k km when I scrapped it due to age and rust. Engine had 0 issues, never burned oil, and no mechanical parts were ever replaced, not even a water pump. If you change your oil regularly you don’t have to spend more on a filter than on oil. I do 3.5k km on conventional or 5k on synthetic. Oil is cheap, engine is not. Buy oil on sale and use any filter
Got a Gen 9 Euro Civic Hatchback thing has been absolutely solid just a well engineered straight forward vehicle 👍, Gen 10 offers nothing but more complexity to me.
Don't forget heavier maintenance too! Those cars are now direct injection and require the intake to be cleaned from carbon build up... Doesn't seem like Honda to me
Tip for future always take out the fill plugs/bolts and then the drain ones,dont wanna drain the fluid first just to realize you can't get the fill bolt out
I always recommend that in my videos, but I'm yet to ever actually run into that problem on my cars. However, I can see that applying to a very rusty vehicle 👍
I prefer to use a BG power bleeder tool. It forces brake fluid from the master cylinder to the brake calipers that way. You don't lose stiffness of the brake from vacuum bleeding, and only need one hand. If deposits are in the master cylinder, you have the potential for damaging the seals by pulling the deposits through the piston and blowing out the seal. Rare, but can happen if brake fluid was not serviced regularly.
Another informative video Milan. I would love to be able to follow in your footsteps and rebuild a car again. My dream car would be any cabriolet with a good supply of parts from OEM or 3rd party. I’ve done four Saabs, but they are now too old to have a good supply of RHD pieces to ensure it will be a good proposition in years to come. Other suggestions? Lloyd
Amazing video, very through! (I spelled that wrong didn't I). Only one thing, when bleeding the brakes its wise to put a small amount of grease around the threads of the bleeder nipples. Since you are using a vacuum system you may suck air through the threads :D had that happen to me on my motorcycle. That one had 7 bleeding nipples lmao. Loved the video!
That would be an issue if the bleeder completely encapsulates the nipple and the threads. The little attachment from the Capri bleeder does cover the entire thing. I'll keep that in mind though if I every try another bleeder 👍
I was going to put a magnetic drain plug on my car but I've heard from mechanics that they can actually pull on your crankshaft causing it to be kind of out of balance wearing your motor out prematurely. This is kind of a known thing to mechanics.
My AC/Heat blew out. No air flow coming through vents at any levels. So I removed my glove compartment and found where the resistor was. I was only able to get to the top screw and realized I needed an extender to get to the bottom screw. So I tightened the top one and was going to buy an extender from the auto store but to my surprise before I left I turned the AC on it was working again. And all I did was loosened the top screw and tightened it up again. Any reason how that can suddenly make it work again? The airflow has been an intermittent issue the last few weeks. Can you make a video on how to diagnose no airflow and how to replace the necessary parts? I also read about checking the fuses under the hood in connection to no airflow. Keep up the good work!
I’ve heard things about it being bad to change transmission fluid at high mileage, or if it’s been a long time, I don’t know how long it’s been from previous owner, but is there anything true about this or is it for ATF? Excellent work man!
To the best of my research, some people offer that advice for automatic transmissions because if it is had too many miles since the last change, replacing the fluid can cause the transmission to start slipping. As the fluid gets old, it gets thicker and wears the clutch packs down faster. Changing to new, thinner fluid can cause slippage
Yeah I don't refer to that ever. It's there as a decoration for me. There are so many external factors that the maintenance minder cannot see. Oil quality, oil leaks, oil viscosity, how fast the oil warms up, etc.
@@milanmastracci what can I use to know when to do maintenance? Any tips I'm currently at 89k miles..all I've done is oil changes , filter changes. But no fluid replacements or spark plugs yet.. since i just don't know how many miles exactly to do it
@@SantosProd Well it all depends on how you drive the car. If I'm looking after my daily, I will replace my engine oil and filter every 3k 5k km's, transmission fluid & brake fluid every 50k kms, spark plugs & serpentine belt every 80k kms, or whatever you're comfortable with. If you track the car, shorten those intervals, if you're very gentle on it, stick to my recommendations. Feel free to have a look at Honda's recommended service intervals online: www.honda.ca/owners/honda-services/maintenance-calculator
I also changed my factory power steering fluid with hknda genuine turns great now as well as all the engine mounts the factory are fualty. So be prepared if havent yet. And i change the belt too haha
Awesome!!! I thought I'd drop my 💦 here too. Since my Tsx is last gen (cu2), I went for oem dot 3. 9th gen arent picky on fluids... I'm still running Castrol mineral 5w20 and I wont go synth unless I wanna start burning oil or want my engine leaking (source: eric the car guy or scottyKilmer). Well, now I understand what it's like to buy a 6k car from an old lady and start modifying it, flex z coilovers, all 4 corners on stop tech calipers and rotors, front suspension components rebuilt (all tables bushings and links) haha I spent around 3k on parts and 80h this month. My tsx is in top shape RN, thanks for your inspiration milan !
Thank God you know how to fix and service your own cars. The dealer is a rip off no matter where you go. Honda has a diagnosing fee which is 145 that they charge for every problem they find. Honda dealership in bronx New York. On zerega Ave. Never go there. Thier parts side is on Tremont don't go there either. Go to New Rochelle Honda. They're not such racketeers.
I usually just top it up with the OEM recommended coolant, and call it a day. Unless you see something for concern, I don't drain the old coolant and replace it with new fluid, especially for a daily driver. I usually modify the car (upgraded radiator, thermostat, etc) and am forced to put new coolant in it lol
Wow very nice and detailed video. Great job. Question about cleaning and re-using the fluid pump. Let's say you're working on a RWD car (like your 370z) and have to change both trans and diff fluid. Let's say you change the the trans fluid first using the fluid transfer pump. How do you clean that pump so that there won't be any trace of trans fluid when you use it to pump differential fluid into the diff afterwards?
So the nice thing about working with differentials and transmission is that they both use gear oils. It is almost impossible to get EVERY drop of fluid out of it should you be using 2 different fluids for your diff and trans (which I am), however it isn't the end of the world if you do slightly mix. In my Z, I am using 75W90 for the trans and 75W140 for the diff, and there was technically a bit of cross contamination, but you won't be harming any components. If you want, you can buy a separate pump for each fluid, but that may be wasted money. Just my $0.02
@@milanmastracci thank you for the reply. Your lucky that your Z’s MT uses gear oil. But let’s say it’s for a Honda S2000 where the MT uses Honda’s manual trans fluid? Do you clean your Capri brake fluid extractor after using it? If so, what do you use? Thank you so much
New title: Tools using Tools should have been the title. Disclaimer: Nice new shiny tools can still result in you busting your knuckles. You could have also saved even more dough instead of giving it to Capri like your fluid bleeding tool. You should have bought a Band Aid instead from Capri. Using terms you had to google doesn’t make you any more knowledgeable. Finally, free price of advice for future work u may do on your vehicle. Take your watch off before u end up busting that as well as your knuckles. Maybe you should buy a bunch of those magnets for the oil filter and wrap them around your body for protection next time. Also, for folks who aren’t so well versed in wrenching on vehicles maybe show them how you actually removed the bolt that u busted ur thumb on rather than showing u put a band aid on. Other than that. Entertaining video. Thanks!
“Carefully crack the upper bolt loose” *proceeds to skin oneself alive via thumb* it happens, next time but use a long breaker because if you know its going to be tight, more leverage is your friend vs more strength. Better safe than sorry
I just purchased a 2015 Si with 80k this past Thursday. I got FBO upgrades / tuning dancing in my head. Your whole series on this Si is fantastic and very much appreciated!
Your videos are so insanely detailed, makes me so happy I own a 2013 and can follow these if I need to, your attention to detail is crazy
Glad you like them! Be sure to share them so other 9th gen guys can find my channel 🙌
When doing Transmission, always make sure you can loosen the 'fill' bolt first. you dont wanna empty the transmission and realize the fill bolt is seized.
Damn, that's a good one.
That exact same problem happened to me changing my miata diff oil... what a nightmare lol
came here to post this too...good practice to always open fill bolt first
cringe advice
Transmission draining 101, never open the drain until you know the fill hole is able to be open!!! If you drain the fluid first and can’t open the fill plug, your trans is stuck empty and your out of a ride until you open the bolt.
If you have a dipstick that can be a last resort fill hole lol but not all cars have that so double check!
@@SpeakEzy Most manual gearboxes, T cases, and diffs don't have a dipstick. They usually only have a fill, drain, and vent. I've worked on older Subarus that had a dipstick for the front diff though. Very convenient.
@@SpeakEzy the vehicles with ATF DW-1 most of the time on the v6's or hard to reach one most of the guys in my dealership use a funnel with a piece of hose to fill the transmission lmfao. Some just have the dipstick to fill from.
Strongly agree with this! Always crack the fill plug first.
You can fill from the dipstick on Hondas at least on their autos just did it on my Acura tsx
Just got my 2015 SI about a year ago with 3k miles (it sat around after first owner bought it). Its almost at 12k now and such a great car! Appreciate the detail you go into for these maintenance items. Hope it helps keep my baby happy as can be along with other regular service. Thanks for the video, instant sub! ✌
That's awesome Braden! Sounds like you got a really good example of the car 🙌 Keep up with the maintenance and it will be a great car for you for plenty of years!
That car gonna last a long time bro. I work for a Honda Dealer those K24 engines are bulletproof for the most part besides timing chain issues if oil ain't changed on time. Besides that, you're golden.
Couldn't agree with you more!! I think these are the last of the good Civic. The 10th and 11th gens are on paper better and maybe nicer to live with, but I think Honda killed it with these 9th gens 💪
@@milanmastracci Yeah, I mark 2015 as the high water mark for newer Hondas. First you can't get repair manuals anymore after 2013 and second, the CVT/DI engines are trading reliability for fuel economy. Honda peaked in 1999, then had come crappy years, peaking again in 2013-15.
Your video is amazing !! I just bought a 90k km 2013 civic and want to learn and do all the maintenance work on it, your video is entertaining and educational, i'll watch them all now :)
Love this your channel. You’re the one who made me work on my car myself. Its amazing how much one can save and even make by doing side jobs 👍🏽
I'm happy to hear that Guillermo! 🙌
Most informative RUclipsr on 9th gens by far. Keep it coming. Full support over here.
If it's a spin-on filter, I like Wix. If it's a cartridge filter, I like OEM filters. The OEM cartridge filters have the best designs and o-ring sizes to prevent the oil from draining back and causing longer dry cold starts.
Your channel is so underrated. You should be getting so many more views. Keep up the good work. 👍
Don't forget to share the videos you guys like the most 💪
@@milanmastracci can I use my wet dry vac to suck out the fluid instead of that Capri thingy
@@Simpleman1078 I wouldn't! The brake fluid and other oils are not designed to get on your vacuum, nor do I think it will have enough suction
@@milanmastracci it was a joke. Ty though for answering the question bud. I figured maybe someone would try it
Amazing work done ✔ 👏
As someone with an FG4 and loving DIY this channel has been the best find of the year! Will be replacing the trans fluid. Currently with 181k KM
Milan, this is not a criticism - more like an observation and maybe a correction. Combination wrenches 🔧 have two different ends, commonly referred to as open and box end. You refer to the specific ends correctly in this and other videos. You’re calling the actual tool, however, an open end wrench, but that’s not really correct. I’d refer to these as combination wrenches to be safe and cover every use possible no matter what end is used. New tool users will then not be confused. I’m still learning all the time and you just taught me a new trick I’d never seen before - using a ratchet wrench in the open end of a combination wrench to increase both torque AND distance! Very cool! I’ve known about the other trick using two combo wrenches but this new version is even better! Thanks for all your great work!
On the civic manual transmission, the check hole above the drain plug is not a fill hole. Its a check hole. When you fill from the top and the oil starts to dribble out of that hole, it’s full. It’s a very tiny check hole and a pump hose wouldn’t even fit in it anyway.
Just discovered your channel. I have a 2015 si that I’ve had brand new from the dealership and it’s all stock. I like your method at approaching upgrades. Thank you. I’ll definitely be using your videos for help.
As a 9th gen owner, I appreciate the info and potential money 💰 saving. You just earned another subscriber, all the way from south Florida my bruthaaaaaaaaa
one thing about the max line on the brake fluid reservoir, make sure all the brake pads are new or at full depth. if they are not, next time you push back the caliper pistons, fluid will just overflow.
That is good advice!
This was one of the best service videos I've ever seen. Thank you for putting the time & effort into making it. Everyone here, including myself is really grateful.
Thanks brother! Happy to hear you're enjoying the content 👊
Yoo this is the best video for honda civic owners wow wow wow! Great job dude!!!
Glad you liked it!
I bought a used Civic 2013 EX with 48km a couple of years ago, its now 63k km and I maintain it by myself as well. Just using Mobil 1 oil and oil filter, rest OEM fluids, standard tools. Good daily driver. Your videos are high quality material, enjoyed watching. Great job! Keep going.
That's awesome Oleg! For a regular commuter car, you can't go wrong with factory fluids and parts! Thanks for the visit, see you soon 👊
The car seems pretty new.. Very well taken care of.. 👍 Keep up the good work. Peace ✌️
Thanks Anthony! Yeah the car is maybe even a bit too clean lol
@7:30 Before you remove any drain bolts ALWAYS make sure you can get the fill bolt out first.
so remove first the upper and then the lower one right, in that way all the fluids comes out?
Thanks for putting the torque specs in the description its a huge help!
I gotchu Mark! Glad you found it helpful 👊
Loved how detailed the video is.
Excellent video! I did exactly all these maintenance items when I bought my 2014 ILX 2.4L. Keep up the great work!
Thanks Ryan! Its a great way to know your car will be in good health for years to come 👍
I would suggest cracking the fill plug before the drain plug to ensure a way to fill the transmission
Liking the video before watching the video cause I know it's worth it.
That's the support we need here 🙌
I'm a simple man, I see a fellow 9th gen SI owner, I like and subscribe.
LOL I love it 🙌
Great video I will say one tip when draining transmissions or differentials always break the fill plug loose first because if you drain it and then are unable to break the fill plug loose you're in some trouble
Very good point!
I own a evo now, but had a 2015 SI prior.
Very good content my man.
Makes me miss SI lol
Same here, 15 Si coupe in my avatar. Don't have it anymore but I miss it dearly. Always turn my head when I see one on the road.
Time to get one again ;) How do you find your Evo compared to your 9th gen? Obviously faster, but would you do it again?
@@milanmastracci if i were in a position to pick up another then yes 👍🏼.
A friend once said "you aren't working on a vehicle if you aren't swearing at it". So I guess that means you're doing a good job lol.
Love the videos and so happy to see more content!
Amen to that brother! Not only do cars make your wallet empty and make you sweat, but they take blood too 😂
excellent video very well done! was very clear and to the point, and all the camera shots where perfect!
Thank you very much Msalam!
I own a 2012 CRZ and this helped me alot in doing it alone. Thanks! (Its basically a Honda fit)
You are doing a great job explaining it in details, how to do it. Thank you!!!
I followed you when you modded your cooper. I had a cooper. Then i traded mine for a civic sport hatchback. Then I found out you got a civic! Back to square one lol
That's awesome Cole! Welcome back 👊
I actually plan to do a bunch of maintenance to my civic in the upcoming weeks, including brake bleeding, oil, tranmission, and a coolant flush. This video is perfect timing for that! So big thanks to you for making this video! :)
Happy to help brother! 👊 Let me know how it goes!
This guy is brave, handling break fluid with no gloves like that.
Lmao….
Good work! I did oil and filter change, steering fluid change, transmission fluid, front and rear diff oil changes on my 15 LC today. Took all day.
That's awesome! You'll know it will be in good health for a good while 👍
@@milanmastracci oh yeah!
Something must be wrong with me - I love doing routine filter/fluid maintenance and once I'm up to date on all of my cars I end up watching people on RUclips maintain their cars. I've done a million oil changes, yet I still enjoy it. It's like ASMR lol.
If you can't afford a power bleeder or have an air compressor, a cheap check valve style bleeder for motorbikes works really well for a one person bleeder/brake flushing tool. Just attach it to the loosened nipple and pump the brakes a few times and top off the reservoir.
Always remove fill plug first, before removing the drain plug.
Ditto
Was just about to comment this!
exactly the refill bolt might strip now youre stuck without fluids
i have a '10 civic and it came oem with a magnetic drain bolt. I remember my 05 pilot had one too.... and way back when even my 94 accord... honda saved money on the newer civic models i heard - a penny here and there
Most Hondas do have a magnetic drain bolt(automatic and Manual)
This guy is ChrisFix’s rival
Just watched a few of your vids. trying to catch up and dang man, missed your content. much love
This is a very good instructional video. Better than most imho.
This is amazing info my man. Thank you, I have a 15 si too and was nervous doing the transmission fluid change. This clearly makes it super easy to do. I'll be turned in to see if you do any future mods!
These cars are pretty easy to work on and don't require many fancy tools which is great! You should be able to tackle the transmission fluid change no problem 👊
@@milanmastracci thanks man! Keep up the great content. Cheers
WIx or NAPA Gold oil filters are the best. All I use on my FBO MS3
Hey, love the details in your videos! You’ve inspired me to try go full bolt on. I’m about to do a full maintenance for my car but I’ve noticed that the serpentine belt that you provided said it didn’t fit. I have a 2015 Si Coupe
The “Honda” S2K oil filter is better quality than the cheap K&N filter..... Just a heads up...
K&N filters are a joke. Mann Hummel is of way higher quality than that K&N. Mobil extended filters are 10x better than the k&n. Yes the spring type OEM Honda filters in the boxes are very good. Even the factory plastic wrapped filters are good. I work at Honda myself.
In what regard? Higher oil pressure? Oil filtering capability?
@@milanmastracci just use the OEM filter, the engine and filter are designed with each other in mind. using different brand filters can affect oil pressure and lower oil flow.
@@milanmastracci in every regard. K&N makes crap. People just fall for the hype. Same as Royal purple. It’s one of the worst oil you could buy, yet people swear by it... use the S2K oil filter. It’s far higher quality and cheaper. Skip the A02, fram makes it. It’s probably better than the filter you’re using currently but still, S2K filter is cheaper and better.
@@milanmastracci have you seen what's inside k&N filters. Watch a video and one that gets cut open you'll understand why and they're not worth spending the money on. You're better off with a factory Honda filter or a mobil 1
FYI just about all Honda drain bolts I’ve ever seen being a tech at a Honda dealer are 17mm not 14mm
I noticed in the video where I mentioned 14mm, I was actually holding a 17mm lol my mistake 🙈
@@milanmastracci lol no you’re fine because later in the video you said 17mm it’s just I noticed it at first and I was oh no wrong size lol. Most nissans and Toyota’s are 14mm which is probably why you said that considering your other cars lol
I bought the wrong set bc of this would’ve been nice to know.
Those jacking points are really good on that Honda definitely prevents damage on pinch welds, my jacks damaged my pinch welds a bit even though they were in the right spot pretty frustrating.
I love them!! I wish other manufacturers would take note of it lol
One thing you shouldve noted for the transmission is that you should always make sure you have the fill port loosened before draining the transmission. Nothing worse than a drained transmission that you can't refill. Otherwise great video.
When you do the bolt ons and tune show the step by step process I like learning and you have taught me a lot , love your channel kept it up my guy ❤️
Oh will do brother! 100% that's coming 🙌
Very nice. You do a great job at explaining
I used fram filter on my nissan sentra. Engine had 391k km when I scrapped it due to age and rust. Engine had 0 issues, never burned oil, and no mechanical parts were ever replaced, not even a water pump. If you change your oil regularly you don’t have to spend more on a filter than on oil. I do 3.5k km on conventional or 5k on synthetic. Oil is cheap, engine is not. Buy oil on sale and use any filter
Always love it when you upload
Love it when you stop by ❤️
Awesome video! I haven't even got through the entire video I ready like your work. SUBBED
Thanks Thivesen! I appreciate that 👊
All love brother❤️❤️
I appreciate it man ❤️
Got a Gen 9 Euro Civic Hatchback thing has been absolutely solid just a well engineered straight forward vehicle 👍, Gen 10 offers nothing but more complexity to me.
Don't forget heavier maintenance too! Those cars are now direct injection and require the intake to be cleaned from carbon build up... Doesn't seem like Honda to me
8:38 “That’s what she said” 🥲
😂😂😂
Great video.. i have the same car and this is really informative!! Cant wait for more vids on this honda
More to come!
Tip for future always take out the fill plugs/bolts and then the drain ones,dont wanna drain the fluid first just to realize you can't get the fill bolt out
I always recommend that in my videos, but I'm yet to ever actually run into that problem on my cars. However, I can see that applying to a very rusty vehicle 👍
I prefer to use a BG power bleeder tool. It forces brake fluid from the master cylinder to the brake calipers that way. You don't lose stiffness of the brake from vacuum bleeding, and only need one hand. If deposits are in the master cylinder, you have the potential for damaging the seals by pulling the deposits through the piston and blowing out the seal. Rare, but can happen if brake fluid was not serviced regularly.
Another informative video Milan. I would love to be able to follow in your footsteps and rebuild a car again. My dream car would be any cabriolet with a good supply of parts from OEM or 3rd party. I’ve done four Saabs, but they are now too old to have a good supply of RHD pieces to ensure it will be a good proposition in years to come. Other suggestions? Lloyd
damn welcome to the 9th gen family!
Thanks man 👊
Solid video, thank you very much. I do not have an uncle Bob.
You do now 🤣
hell yeah love to see the 9th gens
Me too man! Can't wait to start modding it 🙌
OEM engine oil drain bolts are 17mm
Amazing video, very through! (I spelled that wrong didn't I). Only one thing, when bleeding the brakes its wise to put a small amount of grease around the threads of the bleeder nipples. Since you are using a vacuum system you may suck air through the threads :D had that happen to me on my motorcycle. That one had 7 bleeding nipples lmao.
Loved the video!
That would be an issue if the bleeder completely encapsulates the nipple and the threads. The little attachment from the Capri bleeder does cover the entire thing. I'll keep that in mind though if I every try another bleeder 👍
@@milanmastracci ah okey! Thanks for the response!
Love your videos bro
Thanks brother! I appreciate it 🙌
I was going to put a magnetic drain plug on my car but I've heard from mechanics that they can actually pull on your crankshaft causing it to be kind of out of balance wearing your motor out prematurely. This is kind of a known thing to mechanics.
12:42 That escalated quickly🤣
great video bro
Appreciate it 👊
Wow man thanks for this video
Anytime Dan! I'm glad you enjoyed it 👍
from this to thisssssss.......... chris fix style.
My AC/Heat blew out. No air flow coming through vents at any levels. So I removed my glove compartment and found where the resistor was. I was only able to get to the top screw and realized I needed an extender to get to the bottom screw. So I tightened the top one and was going to buy an extender from the auto store but to my surprise before I left I turned the AC on it was working again. And all I did was loosened the top screw and tightened it up again. Any reason how that can suddenly make it work again? The airflow has been an intermittent issue the last few weeks. Can you make a video on how to diagnose no airflow and how to replace the necessary parts? I also read about checking the fuses under the hood in connection to no airflow.
Keep up the good work!
Nice all round video.
Thank you! I appreciate that ☺️
I’ve heard things about it being bad to change transmission fluid at high mileage, or if it’s been a long time, I don’t know how long it’s been from previous owner, but is there anything true about this or is it for ATF? Excellent work man!
To the best of my research, some people offer that advice for automatic transmissions because if it is had too many miles since the last change, replacing the fluid can cause the transmission to start slipping. As the fluid gets old, it gets thicker and wears the clutch packs down faster. Changing to new, thinner fluid can cause slippage
The only thing about civics is that the manual won't say the milage when to do maintenance.. it says to refer the digital console
Yeah I don't refer to that ever. It's there as a decoration for me. There are so many external factors that the maintenance minder cannot see. Oil quality, oil leaks, oil viscosity, how fast the oil warms up, etc.
@@milanmastracci what can I use to know when to do maintenance? Any tips I'm currently at 89k miles..all I've done is oil changes , filter changes. But no fluid replacements or spark plugs yet.. since i just don't know how many miles exactly to do it
@@SantosProd Well it all depends on how you drive the car. If I'm looking after my daily, I will replace my engine oil and filter every 3k 5k km's, transmission fluid & brake fluid every 50k kms, spark plugs & serpentine belt every 80k kms, or whatever you're comfortable with. If you track the car, shorten those intervals, if you're very gentle on it, stick to my recommendations. Feel free to have a look at Honda's recommended service intervals online: www.honda.ca/owners/honda-services/maintenance-calculator
You posted the oil drain bolt, but you never posted the transmission drain bolt. Unless they are one in the same?
DAMN SON THAT CAMERA QUALITY
Getting all them angles 😂
Yo we have the same gen I’ll be following you on your updates.
That's awesome to hear! Thanks man 👊
Can’t wait for FBO 🔥
Me too dude 💪 its gonna be fun!
great vid! thank you!
I also changed my factory power steering fluid with hknda genuine turns great now as well as all the engine mounts the factory are fualty. So be prepared if havent yet. And i change the belt too haha
Nice job !
What manual do you use or where do you find all of the torque specs?
Btw, on most Hondas and Acuras, you start bleeding from the front and then go to the rear. So the bleeding order is usually FL, FR, RR, RL.
I love it when Engineers change things up just for the hell of it lol
I just use a Gatorade bottle and turkey baster for the brake bleed. This is way too complicated lol
Awesome!!! I thought I'd drop my 💦 here too. Since my Tsx is last gen (cu2), I went for oem dot 3. 9th gen arent picky on fluids... I'm still running Castrol mineral 5w20 and I wont go synth unless I wanna start burning oil or want my engine leaking (source: eric the car guy or scottyKilmer). Well, now I understand what it's like to buy a 6k car from an old lady and start modifying it, flex z coilovers, all 4 corners on stop tech calipers and rotors, front suspension components rebuilt (all tables bushings and links) haha I spent around 3k on parts and 80h this month. My tsx is in top shape RN, thanks for your inspiration milan !
Its amazing what a bit of love and service can do to your car! Service & upkeep > everything else 🙌
Thank God you know how to fix and service your own cars. The dealer is a rip off no matter where you go. Honda has a diagnosing fee which is 145 that they charge for every problem they find. Honda dealership in bronx New York. On zerega Ave. Never go there. Thier parts side is on Tremont don't go there either. Go to New Rochelle Honda. They're not such racketeers.
good info again, thanks
You bet buddy 👊
You and Pawinning should do a collab.
That's a good idea 👍
Bob the uncle is underrated 😂
Good video as always but what about the coolant😁
I usually just top it up with the OEM recommended coolant, and call it a day. Unless you see something for concern, I don't drain the old coolant and replace it with new fluid, especially for a daily driver. I usually modify the car (upgraded radiator, thermostat, etc) and am forced to put new coolant in it lol
amsoil syncro mesh all the way in a honda gearbox my guy
I never seen that oil is that the best oil out there does it have better additives then other oil
Wow very nice and detailed video. Great job.
Question about cleaning and re-using the fluid pump. Let's say you're working on a RWD car (like your 370z) and have to change both trans and diff fluid. Let's say you change the the trans fluid first using the fluid transfer pump. How do you clean that pump so that there won't be any trace of trans fluid when you use it to pump differential fluid into the diff afterwards?
So the nice thing about working with differentials and transmission is that they both use gear oils. It is almost impossible to get EVERY drop of fluid out of it should you be using 2 different fluids for your diff and trans (which I am), however it isn't the end of the world if you do slightly mix. In my Z, I am using 75W90 for the trans and 75W140 for the diff, and there was technically a bit of cross contamination, but you won't be harming any components. If you want, you can buy a separate pump for each fluid, but that may be wasted money. Just my $0.02
@@milanmastracci thank you for the reply. Your lucky that your Z’s MT uses gear oil. But let’s say it’s for a Honda S2000 where the MT uses Honda’s manual trans fluid?
Do you clean your Capri brake fluid extractor after using it? If so, what do you use?
Thank you so much
New title: Tools using Tools
should have been the title. Disclaimer: Nice new shiny tools can still result in you busting your knuckles. You could have also saved even more dough instead of giving it to Capri like your fluid bleeding tool. You should have bought a Band Aid instead from Capri. Using terms you had to google doesn’t make you any more knowledgeable. Finally, free price of advice for future work u may do on your vehicle. Take your watch off before u end up busting that as well as your knuckles. Maybe you should buy a bunch of those magnets for the oil filter and wrap them around your body for protection next time. Also, for folks who aren’t so well versed in wrenching on vehicles maybe show them how you actually removed the bolt that u busted ur thumb on rather than showing u put a band aid on. Other than that. Entertaining video. Thanks!
“Carefully crack the upper bolt loose” *proceeds to skin oneself alive via thumb*
it happens, next time but use a long breaker because if you know its going to be tight, more leverage is your friend vs more strength. Better safe than sorry
Sometimes ya gotta learn the hard way.. I mean painful way 😂